The Eagle Hunters of Kyrgyzstan

The
Eagle
Hunters
of
Kyrgyzstan

In the mountains of Central Asia, a Small group of outdoorsmen are keeping an ancient tradition alive.

Photographs by
yam g-Jun

Published April 2025

In the spring of 2021, Talgar Shaybyrov embarked on a heartbreaking journey. For twenty years, Talgar had hunted with a golden eagle he called Tumara. The two lived at nearly 6,000 feet above sea level, in the quiet town of Bokonbaevo, Kyrgyzstan, where guesthouses and yurt camps line the shore of Issyk Kul, the world’s second-largest saltwater lake. They had spent the past two decades hunting jackals and foxes together, often traveling in Talgar’s run-down Volkswagen Golf, a modern replacement for a horse. Now Talgar was ready to return Tumara to the wilderness, as was the custom among eagle hunters. Doing so allows the birds a chance to mate and be free as they near the end of their long lives. “I have spent so many years with her,” Talgar told me. “I hope she will enjoy her freedom.” 

Kyrgyzstan’s eagle hunters, or burkutchu, carry on a long-standing tradition. For centuries, hunting with an eagle was essential to the region’s nomadic lifestyle: A good hunter could help feed and clothe a village. One family member typically teaches another, and it begins when a hunter finds a nest with multiple eaglets and chooses one to raise. It can take three months to train and raise a fledgling. The hunters spend years with their birds, and the relationship can take on an almost human quality. “Suluuke is like a daughter to me,” said Nursultan Kolbaev, Talgar’s nephew, of the bird he began training in 2012.

While burkutchu still use the eagles to hunt, many like Nursaltan also view the endeavor as a sport—and a way to make a living. Nursaltan was named eagle-hunting champion at the 2014 World Nomad Games. As travel to the region flourished, he turned to performing for tourists. This provides income for Nursultan’s family, but he’s been criticized for sacrificing tradition for profit. As Talgar began training his next eagle, the burkutchu community grappled with a changing world and what it might mean for the centuries-old relationship between humans and the eagles they train.

Talgar Shaybyrov leads a hunt in Bokonbaevo, October 2020. Hunters often work in groups—on horseback and traveling by car—to increase the chance of a successful hunt.

Bokonbaevo, with Issyk Kul and the Tian Shan range in the distance.

Right and below: Nursultan and Suluuke in Fairytale Canyon. During training, each success is rewarded with a piece of meat.

Left: Nursultan with Suluuke and his son at their home. The white hat Nursultan wears is called an ak-kalpak; the leather hood on Suluuke is called a tomogo. Below: Nursultan shows off a medal from the World Nomad Games; he’s a former champion in eagle hunting.

Right and below: Nursultan on a hunt in Jalal-Abad in December 2021 with Suluuke and his dog.

The Taigan is a breed of sight hound native to Kyrgyzstan. They are used to flush prey, such as foxes, on a hunt.

Right and below: In December 2021, eagle hunters in Bokonbaevo invited those from other parts of Kyrgyzstan for a joint expedition. The night before, 20 eagle hunters attended a sherine, or gathering. The event allowed them to connect with burkutchu from around the country—and size up the competition for the World Nomad Games.

Nursultan and Suluuke give an eagle-hunting demonstration for tourists. On a good day, he can earn $500 for ten demonstrations.

Most Kyrgyz farm on a small scale to help feed their families. Nursultan’s family rent about four acres of land to grow wheat.

Right and below: The Kyrgyz National Day Games, a national competition, in August 2022.

Left and below: Nursultan and Suluuke competing at the Kyrgyz National Day Games.


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“There Will Be No Mercy”

“There Will Be No Mercy”


When Ethiopia’s government launched a brutal two-year war in Tigray, the region’s largest hospital was overrun with victims. The medical staff risked everything to treat the wounded—and believe the world ignored a genocide.

The Atavist Magazine, No. 159


Drew Philp is a journalist, screenwriter, and TED speaker. His work has appeared in The Guardian and De Correspondent, among other publications. He is the author of A $500 House in Detroit.

Editor: Seyward Darby
Art Director: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Kyla Jones

Published in January 2025.


Warning: The following story contains graphic depictions of sexual violence and other atrocities.

Day One

Saba would have preferred to be an architect. A young woman who exuded effortless cool and liked aviator glasses and Pink Floyd T-shirts, she had instead been thrust into studying medicine by her upwardly mobile family. Saba was the eldest daughter, and the first in her family to go to college. In Ethiopia, that meant that she was expected to become a doctor or engineer. Her family chose medicine.

Born and raised in Addis Ababa, Saba Tewoldebrihan Goitom attended medical school in Mekelle, the capital of Ethiopia’s Tigray region. Her family is part of the Tigrayan ethnic group, but she never felt particularly Tigrayan. Saba considered herself a citizen of her nation, one of the pluralistically minded youth who would inherit the empire of dozens of ethnic groups that the world called Ethiopia.

Saba moved to Mekelle because she had extended family in the city, and because Tigray—which is about the size of Denmark and is Ethiopia’s northernmost region—was more stable than most of the country. A two-decade conflict over Ethiopia’s border with Eritrea, which touches Tigray, had ended with a much lauded peace agreement in 2018. The accord earned Ethiopian Prime Minister Abiy Ahmed the Nobel Peace Prize.

Saba liked Mekelle. When she wasn’t studying, she enjoyed the city’s coffeehouses and kaleidoscopic nightlife. She had a diverse group of friends—many of her fellow students weren’t Tigrayan. She even grew to like medicine, particularly when it meant playing disease detective by trying to determine the illness afflicting a patient.

Then, only a few months before Saba was set to begin her internship, the outbreak of COVID put her education on hold. Like many young people, she moved back home. She helped her mother around the house, looked after her sisters, and watched countless movies. In the fall of 2020, she was summoned back to school. The 24-year-old expected that the pandemic would be the only disruption on her path to becoming a doctor. But on November 3, as her father drove her to the airport for the return flight to Mekelle, his phone rang. The caller bore distressing news: Her father’s best friend had been arrested. Law enforcement had detained him without explanation when he went to a government office to pay his taxes.

Saba’s father was as confused as he was frightened. Both he and his friend, who was also Tigrayan, were law-abiding men who made no trouble. When Saba said goodbye to her father at the airport, she hoped that he would soon have answers. Still, the call left her feeling uneasy.

Saba had kept her apartment in Mekelle, a five-minute walk from Ayder Comprehensive Specialized Hospital, where her medical school was located. But the government required a COVID test upon arrival in the city; Saba spent the night in a hotel downtown while awaiting the results. She checked in late and spoke on the phone with her mother. There was no news about her father’s friend. She looked at social media for a few moments. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary. She fell asleep around 11 p.m.

By the time she awoke the next morning, both internet and cell service were gone. Power in the neighborhood appeared to be out too, but the hotel had a generator, so Saba turned on the television. Tigray’s regional president was on screen saying that a war had begun. Tigray Special Forces* had launched several attacks on federal troops in Tigray, including one at their headquarters in Mekelle. The federal government claimed that the assault was unprovoked. Tension had simmered between the federal and Tigrayan governments in recent months, but Saba couldn’t fathom that anyone in power would be “stupid enough to start a war.”

* Ethiopia’s constitution authorizes each regional government to maintain its own armed forces.

Saba ran downstairs. The hotel receptionist told her that banking in the city had been suspended. Saba had only 1,500 birr in cash (about $40), and more than half of that would go toward covering the hotel room. She was on the verge of tears, but the receptionist assured her that she’d be able to withdraw money soon. Whatever was going on, it wouldn’t last long.

Saba wanted to believe the receptionist. She had never felt afraid in Mekelle before. After covering the cab to her apartment and buying a few necessities, Saba had 300 birr ($8) left. She didn’t know it then, but the money would have to last her a month.

Ayder Comprehensive Specialized Hospital in Mekelle. (Photo by Yasuyoshi Chiba/AFP via Getty Images)

Hale Teka woke up on the morning of November 4 to the sound of gunfire. An ob-gyn at Ayder, he was a physically imposing man who was accustomed to deference from others in light of his professional skills and stature. His father had been a farmer, like his father before him, but Hale’s drive and intelligence helped him escape a life of manual labor. His star rose so fast that he never had to apply for jobs—he was always offered them. He was a man completely in control of his domain, a master of his trade. Nearly every day, people lived or died at his hands. Mostly they lived.

Hale wasn’t sure where the gunfire was coming from, and with service outages across Mekelle, he couldn’t look online for answers. He was certain something was very wrong. But what could he do? He got dressed and did what he did most mornings: He went to work.

Ayder  was the second-largest hospital in Ethiopia, a public institution serving seven million people. It was the jewel of the Tigrayan health system, a network of hospitals and clinics painstakingly built over decades into one of the most comprehensive in sub-Saharan Africa. Ayder’s campus consisted of a complex of white buildings encircled by low trees, and that November the skeletons of two new structures—a multistory oncology unit and an emergency complex—were visible on the property.

When Hale arrived, the hospital was busy with patients—women in white headscarves and flower-print dresses, men in Western-style collared shirts buttoned to the neck, some wearing head wraps or cotton shawls. But there was also something surprising: soldiers. They lined the halls of Ayder’s ER bearing gunshot wounds.

Hale moved quickly through the hospital to attend his daily staff meeting. The morning assembly typically involved a case review of the previous 24 hours, discussions about the work of interns and residents, and updates on general goings-on throughout the hospital. At this meeting, however, there was talk only of conflict.

Employees in white coats and scrubs wondered aloud: Is it really war or just a skirmish? How long will it last? There were already soldiers arriving at Ayder for medical assistance; would there be civilians, too? Hale was due to travel to Addis Ababa soon for further training. Rumors circulated that the federal government was rounding up prominent Tigrayans in the capital. Would it be safe for him to go?

Hale was no stranger to conflict. He had seen the Ethiopian civil war, which had lasted from 1974 to 1991, and ended with the Tigray People’s Liberation Front (TPLF) leading a coalition that overthrew the Derg, the country’s military junta. At the time, Eritrea was also fighting a war of independence against Ethiopia. Eritrea became a sovereign nation in 1993, but peace was fleeting. Five years later it invaded Ethiopia, triggering what became known as the Badme War, which lasted two years.

Hale knew that war had a way of leaving no one untouched. He had a wife and child at home. He looked at his colleagues and wondered how many of them would be injured, sustain scars, possibly die. Would he be among them? Would his family?

For now there were only questions.

What most Tigrayans didn’t know—what few people in the world knew—was that behind the scenes, Abiy had been plotting all-out war.

Abraha Gebreegziabher, the head of Ayder’s pediatrics unit, was also at the hospital that morning. The kind of man who was never late, and polite to a fault, Abraha was a natural at his job, able to calm sick children and anxious parents alike. With communications down, he’d brought along a handheld radio on his way to work. As his loafers crunched over Mekelle’s sandy streets, he listened to news of the conflict and wondered how long the fighting would last.

Like Saba and Hale, Abraha was astonished by the announcement of war. Recent disagreements between the TPLF in Tigray and federal authorities in Addis Ababa had seemed like political skirmishes, not the run-up to war. Though Tigrayans made up only 6 percent of the population, the TPLF led Ethiopia’s governing coalition from 1991 to 2018 and oversaw rapid national development. Under its rule, Ethiopia became the seat of the African Union, was home to a powerful military, and boasted one of the fastest-growing economies in the world. But the TPLF was also a brutal and repressive force that jailed journalists and political opponents. Prime Minister Abiy, who was not Tigrayan, came to power amid a wave of protests and had promised democratic reforms. It didn’t take him long to marginalize the group.

Abiy’s administration pushed the TPLF out of the country’s governing coalition and purged high-level Tigrayans from its military. The administration then postponed elections, thereby extending the prime minister’s first term of office. The government attributed the delay to COVID. The TPLF, which still held political sway in Tigray, saw the move as illegitimate and a possible step toward dictatorship. It decided to hold regional elections in September 2020 anyway, defying the national government. Abiy’s government declared the election in Tigray illegal and barred journalists from covering the vote.

What most Tigrayans didn’t know—what few people in the world knew—was that behind the scenes, Abiy was plotting all-out war. While the international community was busy feting the 2018 peace accord he’d negotiated with Eritrea’s authoritarian leader, Isais Afwerki, Abiy was quietly moving federal troops toward Tigray and into Eritrea. He met with Isais more than a dozen times, sometimes clandestinely, including at military installations. Apparently they discussed plans for war, including the use of Eritrean troops to bolster Ethiopia’s military efforts.

Tigray Special Forces didn’t deny attacking the military bases in the early hours of November 4, but they insisted that it was a matter of preemptive self-defense. While the incident may have been the spark that started the conflict, Abiy had been laying tinder at Tigray’s doorstep for at least two years. Within hours of the attack, the extent of his planning became evident: Abiy declared a state of emergency in Tigray and plunged the region into a banking and communications blackout. Transportation to and from the region was cut off. Civilians could no longer leave.

On November 5, the Ethiopian National Defense Force began dropping bombs in Tigray, advancing toward Mekelle from the south. Within a week, Eritrean soldiers entered the region from the north. The two military forces acted like a hammer and an anvil, crushing civilians trapped between them. Soon regional troops from Ethiopia’s Amhara state and soldiers from Somalia joined the war on the side of Abiy’s government.

If Abiy and his allies hoped that the conflict would be short-lived, ending in decisive victory, they were wrong. The war dragged on for two years, becoming one of the deadliest conflicts of the 21st century. The fact that many readers are likely unfamiliar with it is no accident; Abiy’s information blockade was one of the most effective in modern history. His government also used propaganda and exploited weaknesses in the international order to hide the truth about what was happening in Tigray, which included intentional starvation, mass detention, widespread rape, targeting of civilians, and ethnic cleansing.

It remains an open question whether Abiy’s government perpetrated a genocide against the Tigrayan people. Each person featured in this story, and others who helped make the reporting possible, risk imprisonment or assassination by providing evidence that could move the world closer to an answer.

Unlike most health facilities in the region, Ayder remained largely operational throughout the war.* Patients came from across northern Ethiopia seeking help. The stories collected by the hospital’s staff, as well as their personal experiences, lay bare the scope of the war.

* In March 2021, Doctors Without Borders reported that one in five Tigrayan health facilities visited by the organization in early 2021 were occupied by armed soldiers. Nearly 70 percent had been looted. “Health facilities in most areas appear to have been deliberately vandalized to render them non-functional,” the organization wrote.

Less than 24 hours passed before Abraha began to glimpse the war’s toll on children. Young patients with blast and shrapnel wounds began arriving in the pediatrics ward the from areas outside Mekelle. In time, so many children would pour into Ayder that Abraha wondered: Were soldiers targeting them?

Fifteen-year-old Desalegn Gebreselassie’s leg was badly injured in eastern Tigray in February 2021. He was one of the lucky few able to obtain treatment at Ayder. (Photo by Eduardo Soteras/AFP via Getty Images)

When he learned about the outbreak of the war, Mebrahtu Haftu came to the hospital to see if he could help. An energetic knot of a man and a perpetual volunteer, Mebrahtu worked as a nursing instructor at Mekelle University. That morning, his classes were put on hold because of the start of the war, and Mebrahtu spent the day pitching in where he could, checking patients’ vitals and cleaning wounds in the ER. His skills as a scrub nurse and his wide, welcoming smile helped people trust him.

When he learned that the hospital desperately needed blood, he signed up right away. Mebrahtu lay down in a bed in one of the emergency bays and extended his arm, flanked by a number of colleagues who’d also volunteered. On a bed across from him lay an injured federal soldier.

While Mebrahtu’s blood flowed from his arm, he had time to think. He regretted spending all his available cash the previous day on a cell phone, a gift for his wife. They were adding apps to the phone and playing with its features when suddenly service was cut. Now, without access to banking, Mebrahtu wondered how he’d pay for food and other necessities.

When he was finished with his donation, Mebrahtu held a cotton ball to his arm as a plump nurse tested the half-liter of blood. She determined that it was free of disease, then turned to the soldier. She hung the bag on an IV stand, then pierced the soldier’s arm with a syringe. Mebrahtu watched as the blood he’d just given, still warm, flowed down a plastic tube and into the wounded man.

Mebrahtu was grateful to be able to help. On the first day of the conflict, Ethiopian soldiers were not yet his enemy. 

Sounds

For weeks, violence blazed across the countryside. But outside Ayder, the inhabitants of Mekelle rarely saw it firsthand. They could only hear it. The war was in the hum of drones, possibly operated by the United Arab Emirates at the behest of the Ethiopian government, headed to pound the wider region with airstrikes. It was in the word-of-mouth reports that in the town of Humera, federal soldiers and Amhara militia had murdered civilians and dumped their bodies in the Tekeze River, and that in Zalambessa, corpses left in the streets were eaten by hyenas and dogs. Tigrayan fighters committed violence too, including a massacre of ethnic Amharans in the town of Mai Kadra. A massacre of Tigrayans in the city swiftly followed.

Yet in Mekelle, ghastly stories were just that—stories. The lack of reliable communication with the outside world meant that little could be confirmed. Residents went on with their lives as best they could. Neighbors congregated to drink coffee and smoke. The feeling on the street was that the war wouldn’t last.

Saba’s cash dwindled quickly. She found some silver jewelry her sister had given her and was able to sell it on the street for 400 birr (just under $12), which she spent on food. She passed the time reading George R.R. Martin’s fantasy novels, the Harry Potter saga, and books by Sebhat Gebre-Egziabher, a renowned Tigrayan author who wrote in Amharic. Most days she also studied at the hospital, which had a generator.

One day she ran into an acquaintance who told her that Tigrayans in Addis Ababa were being thrown in jail. Saba hadn’t been able to speak with her family since the day she left home. Could her father have been imprisoned like his best friend? Could something worse have happened? She burst into tears.

Saba wanted to go home, but leaving Tigray was nearly impossible. Those who attempted to flee the region were most often interrogated, arrested, and sent to prison. She, and most everyone else, was trapped.

A cousin of Saba’s who lived in Mekelle told her that he’d been able to watch a bit of news, and that he’d seen Saba’s father in the background during a government event in which several Tigrayans pledged loyalty to Abiy. Saba was sure that her father had no choice but to appear. She was told that he’d been forced to give money to the government—to “fund the genocide of his own family,” as she put it.

The safety of other family members remained uncertain, including that of her grandfather, who lived near the border with Eritrea. Knowing what often happened to women in war, his second wife and their daughters went to hide in nearby caves. His sons became Tigrayan soldiers. But Saba’s grandfather refused to leave his home, even as Eritrean soldiers advanced toward it.

“We are the sons of Eritrea,” the letter read. “We are brave. And we will continue, even now. We will make the Tigrayan womb bear no fruits.”

Abraha couldn’t ignore what he was seeing. So many kids were appearing at the hospital with gunshot wounds that it couldn’t be accidental. He began a comprehensive study he believed might show that soldiers were deliberately attacking children. He documented more than 200 cases of kids hit by bullets, shells, and bombs. Others had touched live ordnance that seemed purposefully placed to attract curiosity. Some of his patients had been mutilated, others rendered blind or deaf. Perversely, the children Abraha saw were the lucky ones; at Ayder they at least had a chance at survival.

With his classes still suspended, Mebrahtu worked as a scrub nurse, preparing materials for the OR and handing across the instruments when the doctor called out “scalpel.” One man he tended to had been shot in the face twice. The first bullet grazed his cheekbone and tore through his skin. Strangely, the same thing happened on the other side of his face. Perhaps the luckiest survivor of the war, the man received symmetrical scars instead of a casket.

Other injuries were more horrific. The case of one child caused Mebrahtu to vomit at work for the first time in his career. The boy weighed only a few pounds and arrived at the hospital with a piece of shrapnel lodged in his chest. He bled to death in Mebrahtu’s arms.

Hale’s patients had also changed. Women who traveled long distances to get help at Ayder reported shocking sexual assaults. Survivors of gang rape by soldiers staggered into the facility nearly catatonic. One of the resident physicians in Hale’s department pulled a letter from a woman’s vagina, where it had been forced by her attackers. “We are the sons of Eritrea,” it read. “We are brave. And we will continue, even now. We will make the Tigrayan womb bear no fruits.”

Hale documented some of the most harrowing cases he saw, including that of a woman who arrived in the maternity ward wearing clothes stained in blood. She told Hale that she’d gone into labor a week before. Because soldiers arrived in the village where she lived, she decided that a home birth might be safer. She labored for four days, but the baby wouldn’t come. Finally, her family took her to a local clinic but found it empty, the staff having fled for their lives. The woman then went to a small hospital, but Ethiopian and Eritrean soldiers had requisitioned it as barracks, in defiance of international law. They chased the woman and her family away.

The woman’s family took her to another clinic, but it was ill-equipped for difficult births. The baby was breech, and when the staff attempted to deliver it with forceps, they decapitated it. The head remained inside the mother’s body. As she bled profusely, the staff told her that she would have to go to Ayder.

Her family began the long journey on foot, carrying her on a stretcher made of cloth and sticks. Outside Mekelle, they ran into a checkpoint manned by federal soldiers. The troops broke the stretcher into pieces, beat the family, and turned everyone away except the woman. Alone and bleeding, she crawled on her hands and knees toward the city, until a stranger in a car picked her up and transported her to Ayder.

When Hale examined her, the woman barely had a pulse. Her blood pressure was so low that nurses couldn’t get a reading. Hale performed surgery and managed to save the woman but not her uterus, which had ruptured. She would never again bear a child. “Many women have sustained similar atrocities,” Hale said.

Hale had long believed that people were inherently good and that the world tended toward progress. But as more and more civilians assailed by war arrived at Ayder, he lost faith in his fellow man. In more optimistic moments, Hale clung to a sliver of hope. If individuals couldn’t stop this, surely institutions would. Once word about what was happening in Tigray reached the wider world, the international community would respond. Powerful countries would step in and demand that the atrocities stop. Abiy’s government would be forced to yield.

Nine-year-old Arsema Berha lost her hand when her village in southern Tigray was shelled. (Photo by Eduardo Soteras/AFP via Getty Images)

Day by day, the war inched closer to Mekelle. On November 22, a colonel in the Ethiopian military urged residents to surrender—soon the city would be surrounded, blitzed, and then captured. “There will be no mercy,” he said on state-run television, to those able to access it. Civilians were told to shelter in place. Abraha soon moved his family outside the city, into the home of a friend. He hoped it would be safer than the heart of Mekelle. But the war would find him anyway.

Abraha had grown up in the town of Idaga Hamus. His father was a teff and sorghum farmer, and part of their land had been allotted by the government for a new health center when Abraha was still a boy. The facility was called St. Hannah’s, and watching its staff treat children made Abraha realize that he wanted to be a pediatrician.

His parents’ home stood near a main road. Two weeks into the war, the family began to hear shelling and gunfire. One morning, Abraha’s father saw movement outside and went to investigate. Almost immediately, Eritrean soldiers began shooting, forcing Abraha’s father to shelter in another building. His wife quickly took her daughters and grandchildren to hide with a nearby relative. When she returned later that day, she found Eritrean soldiers holding captive two of her sons who had stayed behind. The soldiers beat the sons and threatened to kill them. They confined the family to a single room.

Soon the family’s hay storage, intended to keep their farm animals alive during the dry season, was in flames. Abraha’s father saw the blaze from his hiding place. Was the family’s home burning? It was risky to go outside, but he went anyway.

On the fifth day, the soldiers finally allowed residents out of their homes. It was then that Abraha’s brothers found their father shot dead 20 yards from their home. His was one of dozens of bodies that lay scattered around the city. The soldiers warned that anyone found crying or mourning would be killed, so the family asked a more distant relative to collect the body and bury it at a church. There would be no funeral.

Many of the family’s neighbors fled to a nearby town called Dengelat, where they hoped they’d be safe. But nine days later, on one of the holiest days in the Ethiopian Orthodox calendar, the Feast of St. Mary of Zion, Eritrean soldiers arrived. They went house to house, bound the hands of men, women, and children, and shot them. Among the dead were more than 20 teenagers who sang in church.

Only days later, several of Abraha’s cousins, as well as one of his mother’s cousins and her son, were executed near the Goda Bottle and Glass Factory. Then his grandfather died of an illness—the war had prevented him from traveling to a clinic or hospital for treatment.

In the span of five weeks, Abraha lost at least seven family members, and many neighbors and acquaintances. When he learned of their deaths at his sister’s house in Mekelle, his thoughts turned hazy. The only clarity that pierced his shock and grief was that he needed to keep working. He had to try to save as many people as he could.

Mebrahtu spent the night huddled with his wife and daughter, praying. “Please save my family. Please. Not today. It shouldn’t be today.”

On November 26, Mebrahtu ate a breakfast of spiced and fried injera, a flatbread, at home with his wife and daughter. They lived in a simple house with a corrugated steel roof. His daughter was too young to really understand the war, and she didn’t ask many questions. Sometimes distant shelling made her laugh. But this morning was different. Explosions were getting closer, more frequent, more threatening. Mebrahtu and his wife tried not to show fear in front of their daughter, lest it become contagious, and they sat to eat as normal. They could hear their dog, Buchi, barking outside. Then all the windows of the house blew in.

Mebrahtu found himself on the kitchen floor covered in glass. He searched for his wife and child and found them also on the ground, unharmed. Outside, in front of his mother-in-law’s home, there was a cloud of ash and a crater the size of a truck. Mebrahtu couldn’t understand why they had been hit. They didn’t live anywhere near government or military structures. The dog had stopped barking, and Mebrahtu feared that the shell had landed on it.

Mebrahtu and his wife quickly pulled her mother from her collapsed home. Thankfully the dog reappeared. Together they took shelter in the basement of a nearby concrete building. Mebrahtu watched as cars raced through the streets, many heading out of town. He suspected that members of the TPLF were escaping, and he was correct. They fled Mekelle hoping that if federal troops knew they were gone, the assault on the city would cease.

At dark, Mebrahtu’s family returned to their windowless house. Mebrahtu spent the night huddled with his wife and daughter, praying. “Please save my family. Please. Not today. It shouldn’t be today.” He also hatched a plan. He had been building a new house for his family in another neighborhood three or four miles away. The house was stronger than their current one. If they could get there, maybe they would be safe.

In the morning, the family heard nearby small-arms fire. They joined thousands of residents in the streets, trying to escape the encroaching violence. Mebrahtu and his family had nearly reached their new house when a bus appeared ahead of them, traveling quickly. It was followed by another, then another, maybe a dozen in all. They were full of armed soldiers.

Mebrahtu held his daughter as the buses sped toward them. He realized that, as a Tigrayan man of fighting age, he might be perceived as a threat and shot on the spot. What if his daughter was hit, too? He couldn’t fathom another child dying in his arms, much less his own. So he abruptly let go of his daughter and dropped her to the pavement. He braced for the bullets as she began to cry. But he couldn’t bear to hear her screams, even if soothing her might mean her death. As the buses rushed past, Mebrahtu fell to his knees and hugged his crying daughter. Dust whipped up around them in the trucks’ wake. Mebrahtu closed his eyes tight. Once again he prayed. The bullets never came.

Medical staff treat a young patient at Ayder. (Photo by Yasuyoshi Chiba/AFP via Getty Images)

Hale refused to leave his home as attacks intensified across Mekelle. His wife and child had departed for a friend’s residence with a basement where they could hide. Not Hale. He’d been able to choose most everything in his life. Now he would choose where it would end. “Let me die here,” he told his wife before she fled.

Hale waited for soldiers to knock on his door. For a long time he sat in his bedroom, drinking beer and feeling surly. He returned again and again to his copy of Left to Tell: Discovering God Amidst the Rwandan Holocaust, by Immaculée Ilibagiza. “There were many voices, many killers,” Ilibagiza writes. “I could see them in my mind: my former friends and neighbors, who had always greeted me with love and kindness, moving through the house carrying spears and machetes and calling my name.”

When Hale read that génocidaires in Rwanda had split open the head of a Tutsi with a master’s degree simply to see what his brain looked like, Hale wondered: Could this be my fate?

In time he ventured to the rest of the house. He prayed for his wife and child, but not for himself. For hours on end he read and prayed, paced and drank, listening to bombs fall outside his home, to the deathly rattle of machine guns, to the diesel-fuel roar of tanks. When would the soldiers knock? He pined for his wife. It was hell not being able to speak to her.

By November 28, after days of shelling, the Ethiopian military gained full control of the city. By evening, Abiy announced the end of the military confrontation in Tigray. “Our focus now will be on rebuilding the region and providing humanitarian assistance while federal police apprehend the TPLF clique,” he wrote on Twitter. From hiding, TPLF chair Debretsion Gebremichel insisted that armed resistance would continue. “As long as they are on our land, we’ll fight to the last,” he told the international press. Gebremichel would soon call the government’s campaign in Tigray “genocidal.”

The mass killings that had taken place elsewhere didn’t come to pass in Mekelle. Instead, the city settled into the new, tense normalcy of occupation. Abiy’s administration hastily installed an interim puppet government to oversee Tigray. It instituted a curfew of 6 p.m., no exceptions, even for medical emergencies. Spotty electricity and cell service soon returned in Mekelle, although it remained suspended elsewhere.

Hale’s wife came back home with their child, and as they reunited, Hale heard a surprising noise. Someone was using the sound system at a nearby mosque, which usually broadcast calls to prayer, to announce that Ayder was being ransacked. The call snapped Hale out of his despair. Although he was loath to part from his wife and child a second time, he left for the hospital.

During his furtive walk along a path he’d once trod daily without a thought, he saw that the citizens of Mekelle had been busy. Overnight, despite relentless shelling, they’d piled stones in the streets to prevent Eritrean soldiers from looting the hospital. When Hale arrived at Ayder, he found a group of colleagues and local residents hastily erecting a barricade in front of the main entrance. With his delicate surgeon’s hands, Hale picked up a stone and began to build.

Occupation

Mebrahtu also responded to the mosque’s call to aid the hospital. When he arrived, he found soldiers beating the civilians who were erecting the barricade. A soldier fired his rifle and the crowd scattered. Mebrahtu saw a man he knew, the owner of a local butcher shop, bleeding on the ground. The man would die three days later in the very hospital he was attempting to protect.

Despite their efforts, Ayder’s staff and their supporters couldn’t keep the troops at bay. Once soldiers secured the grounds, they laid a Tigrayan flag and military uniforms on the threshold of the main entrance. Anyone who wanted to go inside would have to step on these. Mebrahtu and Hale refused to trample on the symbols of Tigrayan pride. “Before the war, I had no attachment to the flag,” Mebrahtu said. Now he felt that it represented his very being.

A surgeon approached the soldiers and said that they could kill him if they wished, then bent down and carefully collected the flag and uniforms. Onlookers waited for the troops to fire their Kalashnikovs. Instead they relented. Staff were able to enter the hospital without enduring ritual humiliation.

The troops didn’t leave, however. They allowed Ayder to remain functional only under constant surveillance. Soldiers were stationed at the hospital around the clock, operating out of tents set up in the courtyard. Twice they assaulted the hospital’s director. The first time, when he went to a satellite facility run by Ayder to retrieve medical equipment, they beat him, called him a thief, and threatened him with death. The second time they pulled him from his office and assaulted him in a hallway.

Intimidation and beatings were just two of the ugly realities of occupation. Lies were another. On November 30, Abiy declared that federal troops had not killed a single civilian in Tigray. The staff of Ayder knew the truth. Victims of the war died on their operating tables and in their arms. Doctors and nurses lost members of their own families. At least one hospital employee, a midwife, was executed after fleeing the city.

Only two days before Abiy’s announcement, in the holy city of Axum, Eritrean forces shot as many as 800 Tigrayans—including children as young as 13—in the shadow of the Church of St. Mary of Zion. Ethiopian Orthodox Christians believe that the church’s chapel holds the Ark of the Covenant, said to contain the stone tablets, given to Moses by God, bearing the Ten Commandments. Those divine orders include “Thou shalt not kill.”

He hoped that a record of what doctors and nurses witnessed would help write the history of the war—the true version, not the government’s.

Abraha considered leaving his job and joining a volunteer Tigrayan army that was forming under TPLF leadership. Called the Tigray Defense Force (TDF), it was composed of men and women from all areas of society: farmers, professors, students, journalists, even the former president of Mekelle University. The TDF trained in the hills of central Tigray, where for centuries their ancestors had repelled invaders. They were taught to march, ambush, and disappear into the brush. To pull the bolt, shoulder the stock, and aim for body mass.

Abraha wasn’t a fighter by nature. His soft hands were more comfortable cradling babies than gripping deadly steel. But like many Tigrayans, he sensed an existential threat. “They were mercilessly killing people,” Abraha said of the military forces allied under Abiy. “[Pediatrics] was filled with war-injured children.” Perhaps picking up arms was the only answer.

What ultimately compelled Abraha against joining the TDF was the government allowing him and others from the hospital to set up medical services in the vast encampments around Mekelle. In early January 2021, the United Nations reported that there were more than 222,000 internally displaced people (IDP) in Tigray, most living in camps sprouting like mushrooms on the outskirts of cities and towns.*

*An additional 56,000 people fled Ethiopia entirely. Many became refugees in neighboring Sudan.

Between Ayder and the camps, Abraha worked every minute he could manage. He supervised younger staff. He ran clinical seminars. He taught volunteers how to provide basic care. He helped colleagues coordinate documentation of patients’ injuries and testimonies. He hoped that a record of what doctors and nurses witnessed would help write the history of the war—the true version, not the government’s.

Abiy’s administration continued to lie—to its own people and to the world. In violation of an agreement it reached in December with the UN to allow “unimpeded, sustained and secure access” for humanitarian aid, the government limited the flow of essential resources into Tigray. Leaked notes from a January meeting of the state-run Tigray Emergency Coordination Center quoted an interim government official saying that the need for food in the region was so great that “hundreds of thousands might starve to death.” The notes also described people in the town of Adwa, northwest of Mekelle, “dying while they are sleeping” from hunger. Yet on January 19, a government representative declared to the world, “There is no starvation in Ethiopia.”

Soon after, U.S. Secretary of State Anthony Blinken called on Eritrea to immediately withdraw troops from Tigray. Abiy’s government had previously denied the foreign forces’ presence and would continue to do so for several weeks. It also rejected accusations of ethnic cleansing, referring to its actions in Tigray as a “law enforcement operation” that had now concluded.

For outsiders facts were hard to ascertain. Communications in Tigray were still obstructed, and journalists were harassed, detained, and barred from the territory. It would be more than a year before international human rights groups were able to prove an organized campaign of ethnic cleansing to erase Tigrayans from their own land.* But there were at least two atrocities documented in real time, in the form of videos that wound up online.

*In 2022, Human Rights Watch and Amnesty International reported that, in the earliest weeks of the conflict, newly appointed Amharan officials in western Tigray “openly discussed such plans during public town meetings. Signs were displayed demanding that Tigrayans depart, and pamphlets distributed issuing Tigrayans a 24-hour or 72-hour ultimatum to leave or be killed.”

The first happened near the Debre Abbay monastery in central Tigray, likely in the initial week of January 2021. Footage captured at the scene shows dozens of bodies strewn on the dusty earth, apparently massacred by Ethiopian soldiers. “You should have finished off the survivors,” the person behind the camera says. Then, on January 15, federal soldiers filmed one another executing civilians in the city of Mahbere Dego and pushing their bodies from a cliff.

For many people concerned about the conflict, and even some caught in the middle of it, the videos provided the first glimpses of what was happening across Tigray. In Mekelle, residents with restored service watched in horror as mass murder unfolded on their screens, perpetrated by men in the same uniforms as the soldiers now patrolling the city’s streets.

A young survivor of a massacre at the Togoga market. (Photo by Yasuyoshi Chiba/AFP via Getty Images)

By early 2021, Mebrahtu had thrown himself into supporting Ayder’s One Stop Center, an innovative clinic that opened a year prior specializing in care for sexual assault survivors. In a small building separate from the main hospital, patients could receive physical exams, mental health counseling, and referrals to legal services without fear of being seen or stigmatized by the general population. Before the conflict erupted, the facility had seen about twenty patients per month. Now it was seeing that many every day.

Still, Mebrahtu knew that the presence of troops in Mekelle stopped many people who were in need from coming to the hospital. They were too scared, especially women who said they’d been raped by soldiers. Mebrahtu began providing physical exams in his own home and at the homes of patients. The first patient he saw in this manner, referred to him by his wife, was a deeply religious woman who would tell no one what had happened to her. When Mebrahtu performed a pelvic exam in her aunt’s house, he observed that her vulva was inflamed and laced with tears. He then pulled four used condoms from inside her vagina. He could tell there was another one too deep to remove with his hands. He went to Ayder to retrieve a speculum. After he pulled the fifth condom from the woman, he wept.

Mebrahtu left the woman with medication to help prevent pregnancy and the contraction of HIV. He wanted to see her again to record her story. What had been done to her seemed as if it went beyond grotesque sexual gratification. It signaled both hatred and a desire to humiliate. Mebrahtu was shaken.

A few days after treating the woman, he returned with a tape recorder, but she had disappeared. She showed up on Mebrahtu’s doorstep a few weeks later. She said that she was experiencing vaginal discharge and was worried that an object was still inside her. Mebrahtu examined her again and found only an infection. Because she wouldn’t go to the One Stop Center, he again brought her medication. He asked if she would tell him what happened. She agreed.

Over the course of three interviews, which Mebrahtu recorded, the woman said that she came from a small town where Ethiopian and Eritrean troops had burned crops and looted factories. To support her family, she decided to go to Mekelle, hoping to get a job as a domestic servant or selling wares on the street. On her way to the city, Ethiopian soldiers stopped her bus at a military checkpoint. The passengers were searched. The soldiers singled out six women and told them to stay. The bus left without them.

That evening, after the checkpoint was closed because of the region-wide curfew, the troops moved the women to a primary school being used as barracks. The commander told the women, seated at students’ desks, that they should cooperate. “If you do this, your life is going to be easy and you’ll be released soon,” he said. Next to him, set prominently on a school desk, was a pack of condoms.

The commander told the women that, if they agreed to have sex with his soldiers, the men would use the condoms. Afterward the women could go free. Five women took the deal, such as it was. But the woman Mebrahtu provided care to refused. She was a devout Christian. She had never had sex before.

The other women were taken away by soldiers. When the men were finished, the commander collected the condoms they’d used and laid them out on a desk in front of the sixth woman. He beat her and raped her without using protection. He then told two soldiers to hold her legs open and forced the used condoms inside her.

The woman was released the next day. Delirious and bleeding, she managed to make her way to Mekelle, where she hid herself away in shame. She ventured out to a church, hoping to be cleansed by a holy water treatment—a folk tradition—but felt no better. How could she ever return home? she asked Mebrahtu. How could she face her family, her boyfriend?

Hers was just one of numerous cases of horrific assault that staff at Ayder saw as the federal troops’ occupation of Mekelle stretched into weeks, then months. One woman arrived at the hospital with her vagina filled with wood splinters—forced there, she said, by a soldier who then put his sock inside her to hinder removal. Another woman reported that she’d been tied to a tree and raped by dozens of soldiers in front of her son, who was then killed in front of her eyes. The soldiers raped her again, she said, while forcing her to look at his corpse. Ayder treated women and girls who told him that they were assaulted in front of their parents, raped by family members whom soldiers threatened with death if they didn’t follow orders, and kept in sexual slavery, moved from location to location to service Ethiopian and Eritrean soldiers.

All this violence felt too similar to be a coincidence. To Mebrahtu, it seemed intended to break the spirit of the Tigrayan people, to destroy their culture, to prevent them from bearing future children. He began to believe that the sexual violence perpetrated in Tigray was systematic, directed from above, and genocidal.* 

*According to Article 2 of the Convention on the Prevention and Punishment of the Crime of Genocide, an international treaty, genocide refers to acts “committed with intent to destroy, in whole or in part, a national, ethnical, racial, or religious group,” including “deliberately inflicting on the group conditions of life calculated to bring about its physical destruction in whole or in part” and “imposing measures intended to prevent births within the group.” 

He thought of his wife, who he’d only recently learned was pregnant with their second child, a daughter. He feared for her health. She’d needed a C-section to deliver their first, and the next birth was likely to be complicated as well. What if she couldn’t get the care she needed? What if she went into labor after curfew, only to be shot in the street on the way to Ayder? As for his unborn daughter, Mebrahtu feared for her future.

Saba treated a 16-year-old boy whose hands had been blown off by a shell fired from a military tank. He was also blinded in the attack, which killed his siblings.

It was a feeling Saba knew well. After federal troops occupied Mekelle, she was able to depart for Addis Ababa to see her family, but not without incident. When her bus was stopped at a military checkpoint, both the passengers and the driver were taken to a police station. Besides the driver, Saba was the only Tigrayan. Soon the soldiers were calling the driver a terrorist and beat him in front of the group of students, first with their fists, then with the butts of their rifles. One soldier raised his weapon to shoot the man but was stopped by another.

Saba was paralyzed with fear. A friend from medical school also on the bus took Saba by the arm and led her to the back of the group. Quietly, he told her to hide her government ID, which listed her as Tigrayan. If the soldiers asked for identification, she should show them her student card instead, since it made no mention of her ethnicity. Eventually, the bus’s passengers were allowed through the checkpoint. The driver was not. He was sent back to Tigray and the students found another ride to Addis Ababa. Saba made the rest of the trip in silence. It was the first time in her life she’d ever felt Tigrayan.

At home, Saba found her mother sick with worry and visibly aged. Saba was sure it was because she hadn’t been able to speak with her eldest daughter in weeks as she languished in a war zone. Her father, by contrast, seemed angry. “How could you leave Mekelle with what is happening?” he asked Saba, accusing her of abandoning her ancestral home. She thought, How could you not tell your children how much they hated us?

Saba’s father never spoke with her about the loyalty ceremony he’d participated in on TV. He did tell her that he helped get his best friend out of jail. The friend would later sell his assets and immigrate to the United States.

Saba, too, tried to find a way out, and sought placement in a different medical school. Nothing was available, and final exams were only months away. She made the difficult decision to return to Mekelle, hoping to finish out her education if the government allowed classes to continue. In a few months, perhaps, she could leave Tigray for good.

Though she’d only been gone a matter of weeks, Saba found Mekelle changed when she returned. Assisting staff at the hospital—taking vitals, dressing wounds—she treated a 16-year-old boy whose hands had been blown off by a shell fired from a military tank. He was also blinded in the attack, which killed his siblings.

Walking home from Ayder, Saba felt the eyes of leering soldiers on her. She heard that troops stationed at the hospital had raped two female medical students in the same bank of classrooms where she studied. Between that incident and the rape survivors being treated at the hospital, Saba believed it was only a matter of time before she, too, became a victim of sexual violence.*

*One study in the region found that nearly 30 percent of women under 50 experienced physical violence and 8 percent were raped. An NGO called Hiwyet (“healing” in the Tigrinya language) collected nearly 5,000 testimonies from rape survivors and estimated that 15 percent of them had contracted HIV as a result of their assault.

“There’s just nothing you can do about it,” she said. “If it’s going to happen, I guess it’s going to happen.”

A scene from Ayder in June 2021. (Photo by Yasuyoshi Chiba/AFP via Getty Images)

In March 2021, five months into the conflict, the Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights announced an investigation into possible humanitarian violations in Tigray. The inquiry was discredited from the beginning in the eyes of Tigrayans and some international advocates, because the OHCHR had partnered with the Ethiopian Human Rights Commission (EHRC), a federal body. It felt like allowing the fox to help investigate the chicken coop. More formally, the partnership was an example of what experts in international affairs refer to as quasi-compliance: token actions taken by governments to placate human rights concerns while circumventing serious scrutiny.

Hoping to further burnish its international image, the Ethiopian government hired Holland and Knight and the lobbying firm Venable, both based in the U.S., at a cost of more than $80,000 per month. It also leaned on international agencies to do its bidding. It compelled the World Health Organization (WHO) to redact a report, published in April 2021, about the lack of functional health facilities in Tigray.

“This episode does not stand on its own,” the Geneva-based Humanitarian Exchange and Research Center later stated in an audit of the international response to the war. “When the authorities did not agree with the data collected, humanitarian actors were instructed to use different figures and/or to use beneficiary lists that they could not verify.” As it happened, the WHO’s director general, Tedros Adhanom Ghebreyesus, was Tigrayan. He had formerly served as Ethiopia’s national health minister. 

One voice of urgency on the international stage was Mark Lowcock, chief humanitarian officer with the United Nations. As the joint OHCHR-EHRC investigation commenced, Lowcock told the UN Security Council that time was of the essence. “To be very clear: The conflict is not over and things are not improving,” he declared in a closed-door meeting, according to Reuters. “Sexual violence is being used as a weapon of war,” he said. “Girls as young as eight are being targeted.”

In a memo for the Security Council obtained by Agence France-Presse, Lowcock described reports of mass killings and the continued presence of Eritrean troops in Tigray. He spoke of widespread hunger caused by crop destruction, looting and killing of livestock, and insufficient humanitarian aid being allowed into the region. It seemed as if the Ethiopian government were trying to starve out the Tigrayan resistance while also devastating the civilian population. Ethiopia’s ambassador to the UN responded to Lowcock’s comments by calling him “a nemesis” and insisting that there was “no gap in humanitarian access.”

By June 2021, the UN estimated that more than 90 percent of people in Tigray needed emergency food aid, yet it stopped short of calling what was happening a famine. Lowcock, who left his role that month, later claimed, “It was clear to me that there was famine in Tigray, and the only reason it wasn’t declared was because the Ethiopian authorities were quite effective in slowing down the whole declaration system.”*

*Famine declarations are typically made jointly by various United Nations agencies in coordination with the affected country’s government, and only when certain conditions are met. The process can be highly politicized—for instance, when a government is keen to avoid responsibility for the starvation of its own people.

Alongside children injured by guns and bombs, Abraha saw evidence of famine every day in Ayder’s pediatrics ward. When EHRC investigators came to the hospital, he took one member of the team to meet the recovering children. Abraha estimated that more than 80 percent of his patients had been injured by gunshots, land mines, and shelling. He introduced the investigator to children so malnourished they had bone fractures that wouldn’t heal and infections their immune systems couldn’t fight. The patients who were old enough to describe their experiences told their stories.

Abraha didn’t trust the investigators to tell the truth about what they’d seen. He found it hard to have confidence in any outside actor purporting to do the right thing in Tigray. Too many international agencies and NGOs were relying on the Ethiopian government for access and information. To Abraha, many of these bodies seemed to be in league with Abiy’s administration. He felt betrayed by the very organizations that were supposed to help people like his patients.

In a closed-door meeting, Ethiopian leaders told a European envoy “they are going to wipe out the Tigrayans for a hundred years.”

If there was cause for optimism among Tigrayans, it was that the TDF had been growing in strength and sophistication in recent months. It attacked supply lines, then vanished into the hills its soldiers knew so well. It accumulated resources and soldiers. Sensing that its position was weakening, the Ethiopian military dug trenches around Mekelle and launched fresh offensives.

Hale spent hours searching social media for news about the war. He was stunned at how little attention it was getting on the international stage. Unlike the war in Ukraine, it seemed to have barely made a dent in the public consciousness. Abiy’s information blockade was working, it seemed. But to Hale, it also felt like people around the world didn’t really care about Africans fighting Africans—not even when a European envoy announced that, in a closed-door meeting, Ethiopian leaders had told him “they are going to wipe out the Tigrayans for a hundred years.” (Abiy’s government called this claim “ludicrous,” a “hallucination of sorts.”) Hale also heard members of the government openly refer to the TPLF—and by extension all Tigrayans, according to some experts—using dehumanizing language like “weeds,” “cancer,” “rats,” and “worse than the devil.”

Amid warning signs of serious breaches of international law, the U.S. authorized limited sanctions and visa restrictions on Ethiopian government officials and members of the TPLF—but only actually issued sanctions against six Eritrean entities. The U.S. also removed Ethiopia from a trade-preference program and imposed a national ban on arms sales. Broader international sanctions—like the arms embargo imposed by the UN Security Council on Ethiopia and Eritrea in 2000—never materialized. Weapons flowed to the Ethiopian government from the UAE, Iran, Turkey, and China. Controversially, the EU would announce no sanctions at all during the war, only delaying a 90 million euro direct governmental aid package.

One rare event that did catch the attention of western journalists was a massacre in Togoga, a town 16 miles from Mekelle. On June 21, 2021, Abiy’s Prosperity Party won a landslide victory in national elections that the U.S. State Department described as “not free or fair.” (Polls were not opened in Tigray at all.) The next day, a Tuesday, was market day in Togoga. Once a week people from the surrounding areas came to sell vegetables and clothes, shine shoes, and trade animals.

The Ethiopian air force bombed the market around 11 a.m., its busiest hour, killing at least 64 people and wounding 180. Many of them were women and children. The youngest casualty was only a year old. The federal government insisted that only TDF targets had been hit.

Staff from Ayder who rushed to Togoga to offer medical aid reported being blocked from the city by federal soldiers. Two ambulances that made it to the market via a back road were later barred from returning to Mekelle with a number of the most critically injured. It took more than 24 hours for a handful of wounded, including three children, to be transported to Ayder for treatment.

Saba watched in horror as footage from Togoga appeared on social media. She saw photo after photo of bloody bodies that had been crumpled and twisted only a short drive from her apartment. She figured that if Abiy’s government would bomb a market, it would bomb anything—maybe even Ayder.

Less than a week after the Togoga attack, the TDF launched a surprise offensive to retake Mekelle. Despite fielding fewer troops, the TDF forced its opponents to retreat in a matter of hours, astonishing government officials and the international community. In a response that seemed intended to save face, Abiy’s administration declared a unilateral ceasefire.

Saba was studying at home when a friend visited to tell her the news. Scared of reprisal bombings by the government, she hid inside her apartment for two days. When she finally emerged into the streets, she witnessed jubilation. The city’s residents welcomed the TDF soldiers as heroes. There were fireworks, cheering, music and dancing. Bystanders jeered as captured federal soldiers were paraded through the city, bound for detention centers.

During the respite from fighting, Mebrahtu’s wife gave birth to a healthy daughter at Ayder. The couple named her Alina. The name sounded cosmopolitan, and they hoped it would come to represent the freedom she’d eventually have to go wherever she wanted, to be whoever she wanted. The name also had a secondary meaning. It sounds like Tigrinya for “we remove them.”

If the TDF victory was celebrated in Mekelle, many in Addis Ababa knew that it heralded retribution. In a matter of days, the Ethiopian government launched a campaign of mass arrests of Tigrayans in the capital and elsewhere in Ethiopia. People were apprehended based solely on their ethnicity. One detainee told Amnesty International that officers entered the snooker hall he owned. “They began to harass and beat customers and employees and demanded to see their identity documents, before taking five people, all ethnic Tigrayans, to the nearby … police station,” the organization reported. The man later learned that his brother had been arrested and taken to a detention facility 150 miles away.

Despite expulsion of the military, residents of Mekelle soon felt the federal government’s grip tighten around them, too. Abiy again cut off electricity, cellular and internet service, banking, and transportation to and from Tigray. Saba’s call with her family after the TDF’s victory was the last time she spoke with them for more than six months.

Salaries for public workers were also discontinued. Whatever was required of Ayder’s staff, they wouldn’t receive a cent.

Siege

The arrests in Addis Ababa continued, soon numbering in the thousands. The government made vague claims of detainees’ “support for terrorism” to justify its actions. Speaking Tigrinya was reason enough for law enforcement to arrest a person. Businesses were shut down for playing Tigrayan music. Sometimes the police went house to house looking for Tigrayans. Some people were hidden by friends. Others escaped abroad. Journalists were harassed and arrested. After Lucy Kassa reported on a gang rape in Tigray for the Los Angeles Times, unidentified men came to her house, knocked her to the floor, and ransacked her belongings.

The TDF’s triumph in Mekelle also translated into increased suffering across Tigray as the federal government escalated its obstruction of humanitarian assistance into an outright blockade. In early July, the acting UN aid chief said that “more than 400,000 people are estimated to have crossed the threshold into famine, and another 1.8 million people are on the brink of famine.” Later that month, the UN’s World Food Program (WFP) announced that it was on the verge of running out of food for its operations in the region. Still, the UN stopped short of declaring famine in Tigray. It never would.

The WFP estimated that it would need 100 trucks of aid delivered each day to “meet the vast humanitarian needs in the region.” But few trucks were getting in. At one point, some 170 were “stuck” at Tigray’s border with Afar, one of Ethiopia’s regional states. Another truck was attacked, likely by federal troops or their allies, while trying to enter Tigray. In September, the WFP reported that more than 400 trucks sent to Tigray never returned—although the cause was unclear. A government Twitter account blamed the missing trucks on the TPLF. The group denied responsibility and blamed fuel shortages and federal military harassment.

Ayder was seeing more patients than at any time in its history, so many that the hospital was overrun. Each day brought a terrible procession of pain and misery, and those seeking care sat or lay down wherever they could—in hallways, in the courtyard, outside the hospital’s doors. Without aid deliveries, and with medicine dwindling, the crisis had become catastrophic.

In a first for the hospital, doctors were forced to administer expired medications. The only other option in many cases was death. Medical tubing intended for single use was washed and utilized again. Staff had to make difficult decisions about which patients needed antibiotics, insulin, and oxygen. The hospital’s CT and MRI machines needed repairs, but the blockade made it impossible to obtain parts. Hale and the other surgeons were forced to operate on patients based solely on clinical examinations.

Hale was limited in what he could do in the face of so much suffering. He found that approximately three-quarters of the pregnant women he treated were malnourished. Some had gained no weight during pregnancy. Others had lost weight, leaving their faces sunken and their limbs skeletal. What nutrition these women were able to obtain was being siphoned off by the babies growing in their bellies, babies nonetheless born with congenital defects associated with their mothers’ starvation.

Ayder’s staff was hungry, too. “We were trained to treat patients,” Hale said. “But malnutrition came to our homes.” For the first two months of the government’s siege of Tigray, Ayder occasionally provided employees with 22 pounds of wheat and about two pints of cooking oil. Hale set aside his pride and accepted the charity. He did the same when his father brought him a sack of teff from his farm.

Once certain that the international community would step in to help Tigray, Hale’s confidence in the international order slipped away. Where were the powerful nations that spoke soaringly of human rights, that pledged “never again,” that boasted of their dedication to aiding the world? Why had no one forced Abiy to stop killing his own people?

“Having seen what I have seen happening to innocent mothers who have no agency in this war, who paid the steepest price, including losing their fertility potential, losing their kids, losing their dignity, being raped in front of their husbands,” Hale said, “the only hope we have is that God is up there.”

So many children were treated at Ayder that the head of pediatrics wondered if they were being targeted by government forces. (Photo by Yasuyoshi Chiba/AFP via Getty Images)

The TDF didn’t stop its military efforts after retaking Mekelle. Troops loyal to Abiy’s government were still occupying parts of the wider Tigray region, and soon the TDF pushed most of these forces beyond the state’s borders. Still, Tigray was surrounded and its people were starving. The TDF needed to break the siege. It plotted an offensive that would drive south toward Addis Ababa.

In mid-July, the TDF entered the Afar region. Soon it was in Amhara too, where it took Lalibela, a historic city famous for subterranean rock-hewn churches. The TDF fought toward the capital, capturing city after city along the way. Civilians suffered: Sixteen women in the Amharan town of Nifas Mewcha told Amnesty International that they were raped by TDF fighters. In the municipalities of Chenna and Kobo, the TDF killed dozens of residents. There were also reports of Tigrayan fighters looting limited food stores in some towns.

Abiy responded to the offensive by pummeling Tigray with air strikes. The bombings seemed to have little objective other than inflicting terror. Even Mekelle University was attacked. Still, at night Saba studied by flashlight as bombs fell on the city. Amid the ceaseless carnage and starvation, Ayder was desperate for more certified doctors. With the TDF firmly in control of Mekelle, Saba was able to take her final exams. Normally, grades were posted online, but with the internet gone the results were tacked up on a board in a hallway. She passed with a B average.

There would be no celebratory dinner, no handshake, no one to tell her they were proud of her. With phone service discontinued, Saba couldn’t even share the good news with her parents. To celebrate she bought herself a bag of potato chips. She considered it a luxury.

Soon after, she was offered a rare chance to leave Tigray when the government agreed to allow students to exit the region by bus. Staying would mean embarking on her medical internship without pay or even reliable access to food. It would mean psychological torment and intimate physical danger. Leaving would mean finding out what had become of her family. Assuming they were safe, she might be able to live in comparative luxury, with access to the internet, hot showers, home-cooked meals. She hadn’t even wanted to come back to Tigray in the first place.

For Saba the decision was easy. When the buses arrived at Ayder to take students away, she was there. Out of 200 or so interns, approximately 130 chose to stay. Most who left were of other ethnicities, but a few non-Tigrayans remained, knowing what lay ahead. Saba said goodbye to her friends and wished them well. When the buses departed, she was not on any of them.

Saba’s identity was changing. She was still torn between feeling Ethiopian and Tigrayan, but the balance had begun to tip toward the latter. Young Tigrayans had joined the TDF to fight on her behalf. Now she wanted to return the favor by working at Ayder, no matter the cost.

Her first rotation would be three months in internal medicine, then another three in surgery. She spent much of her time in the emergency room. The smell of festering wounds was pervasive, but Saba soon stopped noticing. Sick or injured bodies lay in every bed and chair, covered every inch of floor. Saba was forced to step over patients as she tended to others. She found people who had died waiting for treatment, their last words unheard. Some went unnoticed for so long that rigor mortis had set in. Orderlies had to break their bones to fit the corpses into body bags.

Orphaned and abandoned children became a concern. Saba treated women who reported being raped by soldiers early in the war and now needed late-term abortions. There was nothing she could do. “You cannot abort a baby at eight or nine months,” she said. “You just can’t.” When these women gave birth, some of them told Saba, “I don’t want to see this child.”

Nearly 80 percent of dialysis patients died for lack of seven-dollar parts.

Supply shortages plagued the hospital, and it became part of Abraha’s job to try and address them. He made contact with international NGOs and begged for aid. Little was forthcoming, due to the government’s blockade and poor coordination from humanitarian agencies. Financial donations from the Tigrayan diaspora were transferred to the hospital via black-market money changers. The funds were spent at private pharmacies that still had medicines in stock and on the limited amount of food being produced in the region. Prices were astronomical.

According to Abraha, some medical supplies were smuggled into Tigray by donkey. When saline became scarce, Ayder’s staff made their own using salt and boiled tap water. When bandages dwindled, the hospital asked the community for help. Many people donated traditional white shawls, which were cut into strips, sterilized, and wrapped around wounds. The hospital also asked the community for soap, detergent, and linens.

In the hospital’s dialysis unit, single-use blood filters with patients’ names written on them were used until they shattered. When no replacements could be found, longtime patients, people who’d been coming to Ayder for care for years, faced certain death. Nearly 80 percent of dialysis patients died for lack of seven-dollar parts.

Abraha tried to be strong for his mother, who came to stay with him in Mekelle. Addled by trauma, she repeated the same stories over and over, including how her husband had gone out the door one day and never come back. Only after the TDF had made its advances was Abraha able to travel to his home village for a single day to pay his respects.

Abraha kept himself going with the same encouragement he gave his staff. As a pediatrician, he told them, he observed children suffering from crushing disabilities. But he also saw those children learn to read braille, communicate with sign language, walk on prosthetic limbs. If they could survive and thrive, so could the Tigrayan people, even in the face of what increasingly felt like genocide.

In September, Daniel Kibret, a close adviser to Abiy, called for Tigrayans to “be erased and disappeared from historical records. A person who wants to study them should find nothing about them. Maybe he can find out about them by digging in the ground.” When the U.S. State Department and international human rights advocates condemned Kibret’s comments, he claimed that he was referring to the TPLF, not all Tigrayans. The following month, a journalist with Ethiopian Satellite Television declared, “It is necessary to intern everyone of Tigrayan descent, even if they have no connection with TPLF.” 

Other Ethiopians took to social media to encourage violence against Tigrayans.

“Do it even if it grieves you!!!!! You will not be any crueler than they are!!!!”

“Time to clean up trash!”

“No mercy!”

“Senior officials obfuscated and lied, and tried to omit any mention of rape by the government and Eritrean forces from the official investigation,” Fislan wrote in The Guardian.

Like his colleagues, Mebrahtu suffered under the blockade. Without a paycheck, he fell from a middle-class lifestyle into abject poverty. He lost 30 pounds. His sister-in-law, who worked for a humanitarian agency in Tigray, sent him what money she could. It went straight to necessities. Mebrahtu’s wife begged him to get another job, one where he would be paid, but he couldn’t abandon people in need. “I would be a person who is in a cage,” he said.

Mebrahtu continued to focus on caring for victims of sexual violence. Now that Ethiopian and Eritrean troops had been pushed back, even more women were seeking care. The One Stop Center saw between 50 and 60 patients per day, a 9,000 percent increase from before the war. Under the direction of the Tigray Region Health Bureau, Mebrahtu reviewed the techniques used by the center to ensure that they conformed to international standards. Then he led a team that traveled around Tigray setting up service centers to offer medical and psychological care to survivors not able to make it to Ayder. He trained dozens of clinicians and volunteers.

The impact of sexual violence wasn’t going unnoticed, even at the highest levels of the government. In response to international concern, Abiy’s government claimed that more than 50 soldiers had been tried for extrajudicial killings, rape, and other atrocities in Tigray. But the world had to take his word for it. The trials were held in a military court, and records of the proceedings were never made public. There are conflicting reports about whether the soldiers were convicted or sentenced.

On the public front, the government charged Filsan Abdi, the country’s minister for women, children, and youth, with investigating sexual violence and the use of child soldiers in the conflict. According to Filsan, when she submitted her report, it was censored. She was instructed to state that only TPLF-aligned fighters had committed crimes. In September 2021, Filsan resigned from her post and fled the country. “Senior officials obfuscated and lied, and tried to omit any mention of rape by the government and Eritrean forces from the official investigation,” Filsan wrote in The Guardian. “The government focused on propaganda at the expense of genuinely pursuing justice.”

Around the time of Filsan’s resignation, Abiy deported seven UN staffers for allegedly “meddling in the internal affairs of the country.” According to the Humanitarian Exchange and Research Center, many of them “were known for their advocacy for a principled approach” to their work. At least one had been involved in the joint OHCHR-EHRC report, which was finally released on November 3.

The report’s authors noted limitations—for instance, they hadn’t been able to visit every area of Tigray affected by the conflict—and said that further investigation was necessary. They described atrocities committed by armed forces of all allegiances, but said that they “could not confirm deliberate or willful denial of humanitarian assistance to the civilian population or the use of starvation as a weapon of war” by Abiy’s government. Nor did they come to any conclusion about ethnic cleansing.

To anyone paying attention, both the blockade and ethnic cleansing were as obvious as the sun in the sky. The TPLF outright rejected the report. Human Rights Watch criticized it for failing to “give well-documented trends the attention they deserve,” such as “the scale of abuses, including sexual slavery, by Ethiopian, Eritrean, and Amhara forces targeting Tigrayan women and girls.” The organization also claimed that the report “glosses over the deliberate and extensive destruction and pillaging of health infrastructure, and the intimidation and killing of humanitarian workers.”

Soon after the report’s release, the United Nations mandated another inquiry into the war: the International Commission of Human Rights Experts on Ethiopia, or ICHREE, made up of experts under the supervision of the UN’s Human Rights Council. There would be no partnership with the Ethiopian government this time, and the new investigation was designed to give a truly independent account of the conflict. In response, Abiy’s administration refused to cooperate, attempted to block the inquiry’s funding, and barred investigators from entering Tigray. Notwithstanding its own call for additional research into the conflict, the EHRC issued a statement opposing the committee.

Meanwhile, the TDF fought to within a couple hundred miles of Addis Ababa, sending panic through the city. The government declared a nationwide state of emergency. Citizens were told to march “with any weapon and resources they have to defend, repulse, and bury the terrorist TPLF.” State media reported that Abiy himself would visit the front lines. The U.S. ordered all its nationals to leave on November 5. Other nations soon followed.

In the end, the TDF was unable to reach the capital. On the plains outside Addis Ababa, Tigrayan forces were devastated by drones supplied from abroad. With no answer to the Ethiopian military’s air power, they were forced to retreat. By late December, Ethiopian forces and their allies had driven the TDF back within the borders of Tigray. The TDF would attempt another offensive again in January 2022 but was unable to advance beyond the region.

The offensive was over, and the war was at a stalemate. Though the TDF still controlled much of Tigray, including Mekelle, Amharan forces held areas to the west, and Eritrean troops occupied points along the northern border. Abiy’s administration continued to pound and starve Tigrayans into submission—or as Kibret, the government adviser, put it in another speech, to “wipe … out” the “disease” of rebellion.

By the end of 2021, Ethiopia had set a world record for the most people internally displaced in a country in a single year: 5.1 million.* Hundreds of people were dying from hunger in Tigray every day.

*According to a report by the Internal Displacement Monitoring Center, “The conflict in the North accounted for the vast majority of the internal displacements recorded in Ethiopia in 2021.… Across the country as a whole, around 3.6 million people were living in displacement as a result of conflict and violence at the end of the year, including 1.7 million children without access to education.”

International agencies that previously seemed to acquiesce to the Ethiopian government’s narratives about the war began to speak more frankly about its horrors. “Even in the toughest periods of conflict in Syria, South Sudan, Yemen, and others, WHO and partners have had access to save lives,” World Health Organization director general Tedros Adhanom Ghebreyesus said at a press conference in January 2022. “However, in Tigray, the de facto blockade is preventing access to humanitarian supplies, which is killing people.” In response, the Ethiopian government accused Tedros of having ties to Tigrayan rebels and tried to thwart his reelection to a second term as head of the WHO.

It was risky to move around the region—in January, a government air strike on a Tigrayan IDP camp killed more than 50 people. Yet Mebrahtu continued to do so, hoping to help as many sexual assault survivors as possible. One day, as he was riding in an SUV about 18 miles from Mekelle, he heard the unmistakable scream of a missile overhead. He was on a trip to establish a women’s health center, traveling in a clearly marked humanitarian vehicle—an image of Kalashnikovs overlaid by a red circle and a slash adorned the sides and roof, large enough to be seen from the sky. As he and his colleagues approached a checkpoint, the missile slammed into a truck transporting grain ahead of them.

Mebrahtu and his colleagues bolted from the SUV, the doors left open in their haste to flee. Looking up as he ran, Mebrahtu tried to spot the drone that fired the missile but saw nothing. He ran until his lungs burned. When he could run no farther, he sat atop a nearby hill and waited for more bombs to hit the road below. With its wide-open doors, the SUV looked like a dead bird, wings outstretched.

Additional strikes never came. After half an hour, Mebrahtu made his way back to the vehicle, where his colleagues were waiting. As they sped away from the scene, they got a good look at the truck ahead of them. It had been split in half from front to back, as if it were no stronger than a sheet of paper.

Medical staff attend to a patient at Ayder in June 2021. (Photo by Yasuyoshi Chiba/AFP via Getty Images)

As the siege ground on, Ayder teetered on the brink of collapse. “Signing death certificates has become our primary job,” hospital representatives told a group of NGOs in January 2022. Starvation was endemic.

By then Saba was nearing the end of her second rotation, in surgery. After a breakfast of injera and lentils fortified with cabbage or potatoes, she worked 36-hour shifts without eating again. She lost so much weight it affected her menstruation, and she decided to take birth-control pills to halt her monthly cycle, since it was cheaper than buying pads and tampons. She fainted more than once while working—a common occurrence among Ayder’s staff.

When Saba helped triage new patients, who often arrived by the truckload, the first task was separating the living from the dead. She took photos of wounds to show more-senior medical staff. Sometimes the injuries were filled with maggots. Doctors often left the larvae to clean wounds the hospital didn’t have supplies to treat.

One day a colleague asked Saba to help place a urinary catheter. The patient was a teenage girl in a yellow dress caked with dried blood and stool. The hospital didn’t know her name, as she’d arrived unconscious and carried no identification. She had a head injury, the result of being hit in the eye with a bullet or shrapnel. Saba couldn’t see an exit wound. The only stimulus the young woman responded to was pain.

Saba inserted the catheter. “But it was all pointless,” she said. Saba knew the girl in the yellow dress would die. Saba never saw her again, except when she appeared in Saba’s nightmares.

Those nightmares grew worse during her next rotation, pediatrics. Saba felt more helpless than ever watching children suffer and die for lack of supplies. One afternoon a father came in with an 11-month-old boy so malnourished he weighed no more than an infant. His mother had died in childbirth, and the boy suffered from hydrocephalus, a condition where spinal fluid accumulates in the ventricles of the brain, causing the head to swell. Contributing factors can include malnutrition and vitamin deficiency during pregnancy. The little boy’s stare was fixed downward, a condition called “sunset eyes,” which often occurs in cases of hydrocephalus. Saba knew that the child could have serious neurological damage.

The father had traveled a long distance for help, and arriving at Ayder gave him a boost of hope. Treating hydrocephalus requires the insertion of a shunt into the cranial cavity, allowing the fluid to drain. These shunts, small pieces of plastic, cost only a few dollars. They are mass-produced and readily available around the world. The surgery to place them is routine. But there were no shunts left at Ayder. There were none left in all of Tigray. Saba wished that the father hadn’t been so hopeful.

Along with a resident doctor, Saba told the father that there was nothing they could do. He had two options. He could stay at Ayder, where the staff would make his son as comfortable as possible, but he would have to find his own food. Or he could go home. The child would die either way. The father chose to stay.

The last time Saba saw the little boy was that evening. It was February, and so cold that she wore a jacket under her white coat while making rounds. The father wasn’t with the boy—he’d gone looking for milk. The baby was covered in a single bedsheet soaked in urine. When Saba touched him, he felt like ice. She looked for something clean to wrap him in, eventually finding a bedsheet another patient used for a pillow. She picked up the baby, cleaned him, and swaddled him in the sheet. When his father returned, he wept with gratitude. The boy died soon after.

The father and his young son began appearing in Saba’s dreams alongside the girl in the yellow dress. They visited her almost every night.

As the peace talks dragged on, Ayder’s ability to provide care diminished even further. At the end of May, it was forced to close its doors to everything but trauma cases.

Around the time Saba began her pediatrics rotation, Hale and other colleagues began to document the toll the siege had taken on medical professionals for a study they planned to submit to international medical journals. The team surveyed a cross-section of Ayder’s staff—senior physicians, residents, interns, nurses, and midwives—and made sure to include both men and women, married and single. They knew that personal factors could, as they wrote, “influence how individuals experience and cope with the stressors of war and siege.”

The findings were stark. One-third of the hospital’s interns had departed. Eight nurses left the emergency department, which “resulted in significant compromise on the service delivery,” according to one staff member. Providers described insomnia and sensitivity to loud sounds—their nervous systems reacting instinctively to possible explosions—and feelings of inadequacy, grief, and anguish. A nurse said that those able to bring food to work shared it with their colleagues. One day a staff member refused to eat what was offered. According to the nurse, “She said, ‘My kids were asking me to buy them bread in the morning. I did not buy them because I had no money to do so. I left my kids with nothing to eat at home. I left them for God to take care of them. I came here to work. How do you think I can eat?’ ”

In March 2022, as the team compiled their findings into a formal report, the TPLF and the government agreed to a humanitarian truce and the commencement of peace talks. Both sides, it seemed, were becoming war-weary. Nevertheless, the federal blockade of Tigray remained devastating. For its part, the TPLF desperately tried to shore up civilian reserves in case fighting began again. It resorted to widespread conscription, in some cases drafting Tigrayans as young as 17. It also jailed individuals for leaving the TDF.

On April 1, Abiy’s administration allowed a handful of aid trucks to enter Tigray, but it was a drop in an ocean of need, another gesture of quasi-compliance aimed at placating international observers.* As the peace talks dragged on, Ayder’s ability to provide care diminished even further. At the end of May, it was forced to close its doors to everything but trauma cases. Mebrahtu kept doing what he could to support the women of Tigray. Hale performed emergency surgeries while continuing to study the costs of war.

*A few weeks later, reports surfaced that Abiy planned to build himself a new palace complex at a cost of $1 billion, a signal of his government’s priorities. The budget would eventually grow tenfold. 

Saba completed her internship that summer. She was then instructed to volunteer at whatever health centers were still operating in the region. Transportation was nearly impossible. Her only choice was to catch a ride in an ambulance when she could, which wasn’t often—only 11.5 percent of ambulances in Tigray remained functional just six months into the war. Most days Saba was stuck at home.

Saba finally got news of her grandfather who lived near the border in the north. When Eritrean soldiers arrived at his home, he told them that he, too, would have joined the TDF if he weren’t an old man. The soldiers responded by beating him. One of them told him to turn and fall to his knees so they could execute him. Saba’s grandfather told the soldier that if he was going to shoot him, he’d have to look him in the eye. Instead, the soldiers took his valuables and left. Saba wasn’t sure how badly he’d been hurt.

Her PTSD was getting worse. Even when she had access to food, she found that she wasn’t hungry. She grew bitter that she had ever believed—that her parents let her believe—in the promise of Ethiopia. For a while, she told herself that the siege wouldn’t last more than another month, that it couldn’t. But it always did. At some point, she accepted that she would likely never see her family again.

Abraha was promoted in June. As associate clinical director, Abraha helped lead the hospital at large and responded to patient concerns. People pleaded with Abraha for antibiotics, chemotherapy, a meal. For those he couldn’t help, he tried at least to bear witness to their pain. One woman who came to him had lost 19 members of her family in the war. Abraha always prided himself on keeping his composure at work, but sometimes it felt like his tears were all he had to give. He cried at home in the evenings too, his face in his hands.

At the end of the summer, peace talks broke down. Deadly violence resumed across Tigray. Tens of thousands of people, perhaps more, were killed or starved to death. Both sides fought less for tactical position than for advantage at the bargaining table. In October, when a peace agreement again seemed within reach, Eritrean forces slaughtered hundreds of civilians in at least ten villages.

On November 2, 2022, some 16 months after the siege began, the TPLF and the Ethiopian government finally signed a cessation-of-hostilities agreement. The agreement went into effect the next day, exactly two years after the war began. The mood in Tigray was more skeptical than celebratory. People were too tired, too sick, too traumatized for jubilation.

Eleven days later, Ayder welcomed the first aid truck to reach the hospital in more than a year.

Aftermath

Saba and a friend walked to what’s known locally as a “film house,” a shop that bought pirated content from NGO staffers who had internet connections. Saba paid for a PDF of the peace agreement. The pair returned to Saba’s apartment and read the document again and again. The text pledged an end to air strikes and the laying of land mines, and for a cessation of “hostile propaganda, rhetoric, and hate speech.” It condemned sexual violence and stipulated that humanitarian aid should reach those in need.

But Saba and her friend were furious. According to the agreement, the federal government would control Tigray, and both the TPLF and the TDF had to disarm. To Saba this felt like her people’s only real defenses were being stripped away. What if violence continued? Who would protect her and other Tigrayans? Neither Eritrea nor any regional or ethnic militia aligned with Abiy’s administration was party to the agreement. Both sides agreed not to use “proxies” or “any external force” to destabilize Tigray, but Saba didn’t trust the government to adhere to this. She didn’t trust the government at all.

At Ayder, where staff began the painstaking process of restoring services, there was much talk of the peace agreement. The committee of experts appointed by the UN Human Rights Council in 2021 had recently released its first report on Tigray, confirming what so many civilians already knew—the extent of the killing, raping, and pillaging perpetrated by Ethiopian forces and their allies. It found “reasonable grounds to believe that, in several instances, these violations amounted to war crimes and crimes against humanity.”

Would the government, which had lied to the world so persistently throughout the war, really be so quick to turn off the tap of its own brutality, much less bow to accountability for its actions? That Abiy’s administration initially attempted to block the Human Rights Council’s inquiry, and later refused access to any part of the country outside Addis Ababa, wasn’t encouraging.

Abraha was promoted again, to chief clinical director of the hospital. Aid arrived, but only a trickle. The hospital was short on everything essential, including bandages, medications, oxygen, and surgical gloves. Federal funding resumed, allowing Ayder to pay staff,* but the hospital’s budget was less than 50 percent of what it had been before the war. Ayder’s situation matched regional trends. In mid-2023, a WHO study found that of 853 health facilities researchers were able to assess, close to 90 percent had suffered damage during the war—from attacks, looting, or both. Even those partially functioning reported a lack of supplies and finances.

*As of January 2025, health care professionals at Ayder and other federal employees in Tigray are still petitioning the government for the 18 months of back pay they were denied during the siege.

Health facilities weren’t the war’s only structural casualties. Tigray’s economy was in shambles, many of its principal industries looted or destroyed. The school system was particularly devastated. A study from the Tigray Education Bureau found that almost 90 percent of schools were damaged just two months into the war. Many buildings had been repurposed for displaced people, nearly a million of whom had yet to return home, either because they lacked the resources or because Eritrean soldiers and ethnic militias still posed a threat. Unexploded ordnance remained an urgent risk to children. At Ayder, Abraha continued to care for some of the war’s youngest victims. “All wars are fought against children,” he said.

Mebrahtu felt the same about women and girls. After the siege ended, he was able to resume his nursing instruction, including classes on reproductive health and obstetrics. He became an official adviser to the Tigray Regional Health Bureau on gender-based prevention and response. (He continues to help coordinate One Stop Centers across the region.) He also suffered from nightmares, flashbacks, and intrusive thoughts. He sometimes had anxiety attacks and heart palpitations. For a while he was able to see a therapist, but that only helped so much.* 

*Refugees International estimated that there are only eight psychologists in Tigray, or about one for every million people. 

Hale kept working at the hospital, but like many other physicians, he also opened a private practice. He knew that he could never again rely solely on income from the government. The team he’d worked with to document the war’s impact on Ayder and its staff struggled to find a home for their studies. Only when they attached Western coauthors to them did medical journals pay attention.

Hale was sure that there would be another conflict, and he stopped planning for the future as he once did. “You cannot even build something thinking that tomorrow war will happen,” he said. “It’s the same for your dreams as well. You cannot dream, feeling that war will come and destroy it.”

“Abiy’s strategy with the Europeans was essentially bribery,” De Waal said.

War did come, if not for Tigray. By the spring of 2023, an ongoing separatist movement in Ethiopia’s Oromia region to the south had intensified. In Amhara, regional forces and ethnic militias turned on the federal government and launched into open rebellion when Abiy’s administration instructed them to disarm. The conflict widened and would be marked by atrocities similar to those in the Tigray war.

For the time being, guns remained silent in most of Tigray, yet peace was incomplete. According to a report coauthored by Physicians for Human Rights and the Organization for Justice and Accountability in the Horn of Africa, in the six months after the peace agreement was signed, “reports of human rights violations [continued] … including campaigns of ethnic cleansing in western Tigray and continuing cases of sexual violence committed by Eritrean forces.” The TPLF never gave up its arms. Food aid remained limited, not least because federal officials were stealing it for the military or to sell for profit. The problem became so bad that in May 2023, USAID halted all food deliveries to Ethiopia. The WFP followed suit in June.

Still, the international community signaled a desire to normalize relations with Ethiopia. In June, with food aid suspended, President Biden’s administration told Congress that Abiy’s government was no longer exhibiting a “pattern of gross violations of human rights.” The African Union never completed a promised investigation of the war in Tigray. The commission established to conduct the inquiry was quietly disbanded over the summer of 2023.

Most startling, though, was what transpired at the UN. In September and October, the committee of experts appointed by the Human Rights Council to investigate the war in Tigray released two more reports. “The conflict … still not resolved in any comprehensive peace, continues to produce misery,” the first report stated. Responsibility for this, it went on, lay with Abiy’s administration. “The Government of Ethiopia has failed to effectively investigate violations,” the committee found, “and has initiated a flawed transitional justice consultation process. Ethiopia has sought to evade international scrutiny through the creation of domestic mechanisms ostensibly to fight impunity.” The committee noted “past and current abuses … demand further investigation.” This has yet to happen.

Two weeks after the second report’s release, the committee’s mandate expired after no member of the Human Rights Council sponsored its renewal. This was not a bureaucratic oversight. Earlier in 2023, Ethiopia had signaled that it intended to introduce a resolution to terminate the committee’s work. At the time, 63 human rights organizations, including Amnesty International and HRW, wrote an open letter to the UN stating that the government’s actions risked setting “a dangerous precedent regarding international scrutiny and impunity for rights abuses elsewhere.”

Ethiopia never introduced its resolution, but according to sources with knowledge of the matter, this was only because European Union member states agreed to let Ethiopia propose its own investigative mechanism as a replacement for the committee of experts. Once again the UN had placed Ethiopia in charge of prosecuting its own crimes,* effectively killing international scrutiny. Philippe Dam, Human Rights Watch’s EU director, noted that this was likely the first time Europe had led an effort to “bury [a] key UN inquiry.”

*In April of 2024, the Ethiopian Council of Ministers approved a special prosecutor to investigate serious crimes within the country since 1995, including the Tigray war. The process has been described as a “farce” and widely criticized by human rights groups. 

How to explain EU member states’ decision? Alex De Waal, executive director of the World Peace Foundation at Tufts University and one of the world’s foremost experts on the Horn of Africa, said that part of it was due to weak UN leadership, but also that Abiy had dangled carrots in front of European leaders in the form of investment opportunities. Ethiopia planned to privatize portions of its economy, paving the way for foreign players to benefit from future growth.

“Abiy’s strategy with the Europeans was essentially bribery,” De Waal said. “He basically said, ‘We have these big privatizations coming up, especially telecom, and you’ll get a slice of it.’ The French and Italians in particular were salivating at that prospect.”*

*In the fall of 2024, Abiy’s government began the process of privatizing roughly half of Ethio Telecom, which holds a near monopoly on the country’s internet and telecommunications services. 

Just prior to the UN committee’s mandate expiring, the EU and Ethiopia inked a deal to renew the development package frozen during the war, now worth 650 million euros. “This strategic partnership is now back on track,” Abiy said. A few months later, in January 2024, Abiy was given the UN Food and Agriculture Organization’s highest award for contributions to rural and economic development.

Around the same time, Abraha led an effort to gather data on persistent hunger in Tigray. The preliminary findings were clear. “In every corner of Tigray,” Abraha said in the summer of 2024, “there are pockets of starvation.”

A doctor attends to Alem, 29, and her two-month-old son, Leul, who suffered from severe malnutrition, in February 2024. (Photo by Ed Ram/Getty Images)

As with many conflicts, the precise number of deaths from the war in Tigray may never be known. But experts estimate that it claimed the lives of some 600,000 civilians, possibly many more. That figure isn’t far off from the death toll of the Rwanda genocide, in which 800,000 people were slaughtered. “I used to think the world learned a lot of things from Rwanda,” Mebrahtu said. “But they failed in Tigray.”

While all factions in the conflict have committed war crimes, the scale of these atrocities differs considerably. Only one side of the war can be credibly accused of genocide. In Abraha’s mind, there’s no question about what happened in his homeland. “This is a genocide by intention and commission,” he said. Helping to heal survivors will never be enough for him. To process the tragedies he witnessed, as well as his family’s own losses, he wants an impartial investigation, due process, justice.

A growing number of international observers are also calling for accountability for what they see as a probable genocide. That would likely require judicial proceedings at the global level. Ethiopia is not party to the Rome Statute, which governs the International Criminal Court. For the ICC to open a case against Abiy or members of his government, the UN Security Council would have to authorize it. Ethiopia is subject to the jurisdiction of the International Court of Justice (ICJ) for various crimes, including genocide, but another sovereign nation must bring the suit. There is no indication that anyone with the authority to do so is keen to take Ethiopia or its leadership to either court.* Despite overseeing one of this century’s bloodiest conflicts—and several well-documented atrocities that may amount to genocide—Abiy managed to keep the international order largely on his side.

*The ICC prosecutes individuals, hence the recent arrest warrant issued for Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu for, among other charges, using starvation as a weapon of war. The ICJ, by contrast, allows UN member states to sue one another. In December of 2023, for example, South Africa alleged before the court that Israel’s conduct in the Gaza Strip amounted to genocide. The case is pending.

This has left many Tigrayans feeling abandoned. “Unless you have power,” Mebrahtu said, “being human or truthful is nothing in this world.” Several sources interviewed for this story said they were “jealous” of the attention the Palestinian cause received since Israel began its assault on Gaza in October 2023.

Hale, once a believer in the promise of global governance, fears that the legacy of the war in Tigray will be one of inaction and impunity. “Dictators have taken a lesson from Ethiopia—that you can kill your own people, you can exterminate,” he said. “You can do ethnic cleansing, and then you can escape.”

“You Tigrayans are all disgusting,” the driver seethed. Saba turned and walked away as the man spat insults. She was no longer surprised by this kind of abuse.

The month after the peace agreement was signed, Saba was able to return to Addis Ababa and see her family. They had returned to the capital from Dubai, where they fled during the mass arrests in 2021. Her sister purchased her a ticket home, and Saba was on the second plane out of Mekelle following the end of the siege.

When she arrived at the Addis Ababa airport, a taxi driver asked Saba if she wanted a ride. Her father was picking her up, so she said no. “You Tigrayans are all disgusting,” the driver seethed. Saba turned and walked away as the man spat insults. She was no longer surprised by this kind of abuse.

At home her mother cooked a feast, including doro wat, Saba’s favorite dish. After more than a year of starvation, she was shocked to see so much food on the table. She found that she could eat very little of it. Her body wasn’t used to so much nourishment, and she felt disgusted to have so much while others had so little. Her father asked why she was so thin—she had lost almost 35 pounds from a five-foot-three-inch frame—and she realized that her own family had little idea what she’d been through.

Saba was finally able to speak with her grandfather in northern Tigray. He now walked with a limp because of the beating he’d sustained from the soldiers. When Saba asked him if he felt resentment, he told her that he was “too old for hatred.”

Saba still sees the girl in the yellow dress and the little boy and his father in her dreams. She briefly went to a therapist but stopped when she could no longer afford it. Asking her parents for help wasn’t an option. “They don’t believe in mental health care,” she said. Saba no longer enjoys her hobbies from before the war. She doesn’t read much or listen to music. When she’s not working, she watches trashy TV, not caring about what happens on screen. Her menstrual cycle still hasn’t returned to normal.

Saba is no longer a practicing doctor. She says that she doesn’t have the “mental capacity” for it after laboring in conditions so heinous that she was forced to leave patients to die. She’s now studying public health at a university in the U.S. and hopes to find “office work.” She wants to return to Tigray one day, to help rebuild the medical system. But not now, not yet. She feels too broken.

After dinner on her first night home, Saba went upstairs to her childhood bedroom. On a shelf were books by J. K. Rowling and Sally Rooney, exactly where she’d left them. Her bed looked the same as she remembered, and when she lay down, sleep came fast. The next morning she decided to go through some of her childhood things. As she looked at old clothes that now swallowed her withered frame, her composure shattered. On the floor of her room, she wept for the life she no longer had. For the child she used to be. For the woman she’d become.

Saba felt that the person who’d once worn the clothes piled around her had been lost in Tigray, had died alongside so many others. She missed that person. She was a good person.

Additional research by David Moulton and Tewelde G.

Originally, this story used a pseudonym for Hale Teka. Several months after publication, Hale requested that he be identified alongside his colleagues. The story has been updated to include his full name.


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The Good Traitor

The Good Traitor

The Nazis feared journalist Carl von Ossietzky so much they sent him to a concentration camp. Could winning the Nobel Peace Prize save his life?

By Kate McQueen

The Atavist Magazine, No. 157


Kate McQueen is a writer, editor, and researcher who specializes in literary journalism. She is editorial director of the Pollen Initiative, a nonprofit that creates and supports media centers inside prisons. Her writing has appeared in Alta Journal, JSTOR Daily, Journalism History, and Literary Journalism Studies, among other publications.

Editor: Jonah Ogles
Art Director: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Josie Le Blond
Illustrator: Gregori Saavedra

Published in November 2024.


ONE

The first time Carl von Ossietzky disappeared inside a prison, a crowd of supporters cheered him on. It was a sunny Tuesday in May 1932. Several friends had escorted the journalist across Berlin. They fastened black, red, and gold streamers to their cars and departed from the west-side offices of Die Weltbühne (The World Stage), the left-leaning magazine Ossietzky edited. As they paraded slowly toward Tegel Prison, in the north of the city, the colors of the German Republic fluttered around them in traffic.

In a wooded area outside the prison’s main gates, about 100 intellectual celebrities, sympathetic journalists, and general well-wishers had gathered in solidarity. The crowd violated Berlin’s ban on large group gatherings, enacted to quell violence between extremists on Germany’s left and right, but writer Kurt Grossman, the secretary of the German League of Human Rights, a pacifist organization of which Ossietzky was a member, persuaded the police to keep patrols away from the area for 90 minutes. Ossietzky could take his time bidding his audience farewell. “I’m not surrendering,” he said. In prison, he insisted, he would “remain a living demonstration against a judgment from the highest court.”

Fourteen months earlier, the 42-year-old editor had been charged with treason for publishing an article about the German Air Force’s rearmament efforts, which were in violation of the Treaty of Versailles. The treaty forbade Germany from accumulating war matériel or maintaining more than a small defense-oriented military. The facts of the rearmament were not widely known until Die Weltbühne’s story ran. In turn, the military accused both Ossietzky and the author of the article, Walter Kreiser, of betraying their country.

Die Weltbühne’s circulation was small but its readership influential; this included thought leaders in politics and culture both in Germany and beyond its borders. Anticipating international outcry, the German Foreign Office expressed doubts about prosecuting the two men, but the state attorney proceeded with a closed-door trial anyway. For two days, Ossietzky and Kreiser sat side by side in a vast empty gallery, listening to the echoes of lawyers’ competing voices. “Uncanny, such a theater without an audience,” Ossietzky later wrote. The men were ultimately convicted of a lesser charge—publishing military secrets—and sentenced to 18 months’ imprisonment. They were given until early May 1932 to hand themselves over to the authorities. Kreiser fled Germany to avoid doing time. Ossietzky made a point of staying.

Ossi, as his friends called him, was a small, quiet man with a high forehead, a long narrow nose, and knife-thin lips. His striking face made him easy to caricature, and newspapers often did just that. He tended to cast his eyes down at the floor during casual conversation, holding a lit cigarette between gently shaking fingers. His reserve, coupled with the “von” in his last name, which was traditionally a marker of noble lineage, caused strangers to mistake him for an aristocrat. But Ossietzky came from a working-class neighborhood in Hamburg. He barely finished secondary school, and then worked listlessly as a clerk in Hamburg’s judicial administration until 1914. His experience serving in the Great War cemented his commitment to peace and galvanized his interest in writing. He relocated to Berlin in 1919, where he became secretary for the German Peace Society and gained acclaim as a political commentator who argued against militarism and for democracy.

Journalists, he believed, ought “to hold a mirror up to the times” and be “the conscience of the day.” Week after week, Ossietzky turned out articles that vibrated with energy. His colleague Rudolf Arnheim once said that Ossietzky could interest even the most unpolitical readers in the country’s fate because his “thoughts [were] not brought forward with jargon but rather in a language in which one can describe flowers, music, and women.” Ossietzky’s articles were those of an advocate for a fledgling democracy stretched to the breaking point by increasingly radical political factions. He didn’t want the young republic to die on his watch.

After Ossietzky took over Die Weltbühne in 1927, he spent long hours working in shirtsleeves amid messy piles of papers at the magazine’s office. He was the kind of editor who preferred pencil stubs to red pens, who remembered to buy the printing crew beer and sausages. Under his leadership, Die Weltbühne published pieces from across the political left, a fact that exasperated contributors who wished he’d hew to a more radical line. The magazine became a necessary if solitary stage for those not strictly aligned with Germany’s leading workers’ parties. 

One frequent topic of discussion in its pages was Germany’s militarism, an original sin that had led the country into the Great War and paved the way for incipient fascism. This got the publication in trouble more than once with state authorities. Prior to Ossietzky’s 1931 trial, Die Weltbühne had already faced a lawsuit over its coverage of the Schwarze Reichswehr, a right-wing paramilitary group that carried out numerous vigilante killings in the early 1920s. The magazine’s articles pressured Germany’s Department of Justice to prosecute the murderers and embarrassed the military, which had denied the existence of underground armed groups even as it sanctioned their activities. Later, the military insisted that another charge be brought against Die Weltbühne, this time for publishing a commentary declaring that “soldiers are murderers.”

The terms of Ossietzky’s punishment for publishing military secrets jarred his friends and admirers. People convicted of high-profile political crimes in Germany were often given festungshaft (fortress confinement), a more comfortable form of imprisonment. Such was the case for Adolf Hitler following the 1923 Beer Hall Putsch; while incarcerated, he had permission to receive visitors, and it was during that period that he wrote Mein Kampf. Yet the court ordered Ossietzky to serve his time in a common prison alongside thieves and murderers. Justice, many on Germany’s left grumbled, was only blind in the right eye.

Ossietzky insisted that his sentence was in keeping with the principles of his profession. “They may condemn us, today, tomorrow, the day after, [and] we will accept it,” he once wrote. “But our pride will be in … becoming more energetic, sharper, denser and tougher. That’s why we are journalists.” His stance inspired fellow members of the press.

Though it had not been his goal, by overseeing coverage of Germany’s militarism and facing judgment for it, Ossietzky also became a symbol for the German peace movement—and for those opposed to fascism. “If you want to fight effectively against the corrupt spirit of a nation,” he told a Die Weltbühne contributor, “you must share its fate.”

The day Ossietzky reported for his sentence, he made a final promise: When his friends saw him again, he would be “released but not reformed.” Hat in hand, he waved to the crowd and allowed himself to be swallowed by the prison’s redbrick walls.

“If you want to fight effectively against the corrupt spirit of a nation,” Ossietzky told a Die Weltbühne contributor, “you must share its fate.”

His freshly painted cell with its stone floor reminded Ossietzky of a bathroom. The food the prison gave him was meager. He needed a doctor’s permission to smoke, and was limited to ten cigarettes per day. But the situation wasn’t too terrible, he told his wife, Maud. He could read and write, at least. Ossietzky penned countless letters to supporters and to Die Weltbühne’s contributors. He drafted articles, smuggled out of Tegel by one of his lawyers, that were published under the pseudonym Thomas Murner. And he wrote to Maud with dozens of small requests: books, soap, lanolin for shaving, shoelaces, handkerchiefs, underwear. Sometimes he asked for paper, other times for envelopes.

Maud, a tiny Anglo-Indian woman with enormous brown eyes, did not have a battle-axe sensibility. She passed on many of Ossietzky’s requests to the magazine’s gruff but efficient operations manager, Hedwig Hünicke, whom one staff member referred to, with equal parts love and fear, as the “corset rods” of the publication.

Die Weltbühne forged ahead thanks to Hünicke and Hellmut von Gerlach, Ossietzky’s close friend and a longtime colleague in the peace movement. Gerlach was in his sixties, with a graying goatee and a boyish sense of humor. His weekly editorials drew on his wealth of experience as a journalist, a former politician, and the current chair of the German League of Human Rights. Gerlach supervised the production of 42 issues of the magazine in Ossietzky’s absence, publishing work by a dozen well-known male contributors and a few women, who wrote under male pseudonyms. 

Gerlach’s decades-younger companion, Milly Zirker, was one of those women. The fashionable Zirker worked as an editor for the daily 8 Uhr Abendblatt and wrote political commentary for Die Weltbühne under the name Johannes Bückler. According to Gerlach, Zirker was as tough in person as she was with words; she is said to have saved his life once during an antiwar protest that turned violent. Hilde Walter was another no-nonsense Die Weltbühne contributor, who wrote articles on unions and women’s issues. Friends described Walter as assertive and opinionated, but not ambitious or vain; sometimes rude but always honest.

In addition to keeping its own doors open, Die Weltbühne assisted the German League of Human Rights and the German branch of the PEN Club with collecting 42,036 signatures in support of a reduction in Ossietzky’s sentence. The petition failed, but Ossietzky was released early anyway as part of a mass amnesty pushed through parliament by an unusual alliance of representatives from the Nazi, Communist, and Social Democratic Parties. Ossietzky walked out of Tegel on December 22, after seven months and 12 days behind bars. He would not be free for long.


The second time Ossietzky disappeared into state custody, it was under guard in the dark morning hours of February 28, 1933. Hitler had been appointed chancellor four weeks prior, though the Nazis had not yet achieved a parliamentary majority. Elections were scheduled for March 5. Representatives of the German League of Human Rights knew that Ossietzky was on the Nazis’ arrest list, prepared in anticipation of the moment when the party gained full control of the government. Robert M.W. Kempner, a Berlin public prosecutor who would later become the U.S. chief counsel at the Nuremberg Trials, was one of many people who urged Ossietzky to leave the country. Just a few more days, Ossietzky said. He would wait until the election was over.

On the evening of February 27, Ossietzky sat quietly with close friends and listened to a radio report about an arson attack on the Reichstag. Then he returned home to Maud. The couple tried to sleep but couldn’t. They got up in the middle of the night and drank coffee, as if expecting the knock that eventually came at 3:30 a.m.

As the Reichstag smoldered, Hitler’s government used the incident as a pretext for exerting unprecedented powers. It ordered law enforcement to round up critics. The police came for socialists, pacifists, clergy members, lawyers, professors, artists, journalists, and writers. Under the watchful eyes of two officers, Ossietzky pulled on his clothes and told a terrified Maud not to worry. “Head up! I’ll be back soon,” he said. Maud, shocked by the night’s events, told herself that nothing too terrible could happen; after all, her husband had done nothing wrong.

Ossietzky was taken to police headquarters at Alexanderplatz. The corridors were packed with people under so-called protective custody. Members of parliament and the Constitutional Court, newspaper editors and novelists, peace activists and academics—all stood shoulder to shoulder. “The entirety of cultural bolshevism,” Egon Erwin Kisch, a flashy socialist reporter from Prague with a chest famously covered in tattoos, later marveled. “Everyone knew each other, and every time the police dragged in another one, we all greeted him.”

The guards were not the usual civil servants with shiny-elbowed suits, but animated young men with swastikas emblazoned on their arm bands. They addressed the detainees insolently and punctuated their commands with insults. Scumbags! Dirty swine! Eventually, they marched the large group to a single cramped cell in the basement.

A day later, the detainees were shuttled to the city’s old military prisons, which had been repurposed by the newly formed Geheime Staatspolizei, better known as the Gestapo. The days dragged on. In letters to Maud, Ossietzky put up a brave front. “My dearest Maudie,” he wrote. “I’ve been brought under sensibly; the cell is large and airy, the guards are friendly—there is no reason to complain. You shouldn’t fear that I’m doing poorly. Gradually I’ve gotten used to any situation I find myself in.” He encouraged her to rely on Hünicke, who already had ample practice arranging Ossietzky’s affairs.

By March 11, a steady flow of men had surfaced from the cells—the well-connected, people deemed minor players by the Nazis, and holders of foreign passports. Among them was Kisch, who emerged to a reception area full of wives desperate for news. He was promptly deported.

Many other political prisoners, including Ossietzky, waited another three weeks to learn their fate. Finally they were placed in chains, loaded into transport vehicles, and driven to the train station. There they were squeezed into boxcars and carried east, to a concentration camp.

TWO

Within days of the Reichstag fire, Die Weltbühne’s ranks had thinned dramatically. The magazine was prohibited from publishing, and many of its contributors fled to neighboring countries as quickly as trains and private cars could carry them.

By mid-March, Hünicke and Walter were about the only friends of Ossietzky’s remaining in Berlin who were willing and able to help him. They knew that the Gestapo was watching them. The authorities searched the magazine’s office in the first week of March, combing through files and confiscating boxes of papers. Officers unsuccessfully hassled Hünicke to name the people behind the magazine’s writers’ many pseudonyms. The police also raided Walter’s unit in Die Künstlerkolonie (the Artist’s Colony), a massive Art Deco complex in the Wilmersdorf neighborhood that offered affordable housing to the mostly left-leaning members of Berlin’s writers’ and stage-workers’ guilds. Officers blocked off major streets to the complex, used fire-engine ladders to enter upper-floor apartments via the balconies, and proceeded to arrest known Communists and confiscate Marxist literature.      

Walter sensed that the Nazis were not taking her and Hünicke very seriously, at least not yet. They had not arrested her, despite the fact that she was Jewish, a liberal journalist, and a card-carrying member of the anti-fascist German Social Democratic Party. She and Hünicke, who was not Jewish, decided that they would use their relative freedom, however long it lasted, to aid Ossietzky and his family.

Maud, in particular, presented a problem. Her mental health was rapidly deteriorating. She drank heavily, and Walter suspected she had been hallucinating when she reported that police had searched her home. Hünicke and Walter decided to send her to a sanatorium in one of the city’s lake-filled suburbs. Then they arranged for Rosalinde, the Ossietzkys’ 12-year-old daughter, to leave for England. In order to draw less attention to the departure, Maud stood at the end of the platform and nodded to the crying girl as her train left the station.

Everything cost money: Maud’s care, Rosalinde’s schooling, packages of food, cigarettes, and newspapers that Ossietzky managed to request from prison. Hünicke extracted some cash from what was left of Die Weltbühne’s unseized funds, but it wasn’t enough. Hünicke and Walter wrote letters to the expatriated German left and to sympathizers in England and the U.S., soliciting money. They hoped it might keep the family afloat. Soon they would need it to save Ossietzky’s life.

Ossietzky was one of the roughly 40,000 opponents of the Nazi regime who were rounded up in Prussia, Germany’s largest and most populous state, in the first few months of 1933. To house so many new detainees, the Nazis requisitioned abandoned factories, underused schools, military barracks, crumbling castles, and aging detention facilities. The 100-year-old prison compound known as Sonnenburg had closed in 1931 because of dangerous sanitary conditions. But there were cellblocks available to be filled, and by the first week of April, transports from Berlin began to arrive. In short order, the prison was occupied by a thousand men, including Ossietzky.

Once the detainees had exited the trains, locals in the town where Sonnenburg was located watched as officers beat the men with truncheons and forced them to sing the German national anthem while marching to their confinement. Some of the cells were without chairs or beds, so the men squatted on the cold ground or leaned against damp, mildewed walls. What sleep they managed to get was on piles of rotting straw. Their water came from a well in a courtyard, and they relieved themselves in chamber pots. 

The Gestapo administered Sonnenburg, but the prison was guarded by divisions from the paramilitary Sturmabteilung (SA), whose members were known as brownshirts. The SA filled its ranks with fascism’s truest believers, men eager to take advantage of extrajudicial power. SA officers forced prisoners to sing Nazi songs and perform what was euphemistically called exercise. For hours each day, the men were required to lie on the ground, stand up, lie down and stand up, over and over again, until they were exhausted. Those who fainted or whose bodies gave out got a boot to the belly or a fist in the face.

Ossietzky deteriorated quickly in these conditions; he was often too weak to stand. He would lie without protest as drunken officers beat him and screamed, “You Polish pig, die already!”

Because the Nazis considered Ossietzky a traitor for Die Weltbühne’s revelations about Germany’s rearmament efforts, he was among those subjected to heightened cruelty. He was made to dig his own grave, on the pretext of being shot. He always seemed to be on latrine duty, forced to carry chamber pots at nose level across the prison yard. It took just six days at Sonnenburg for him to suffer his first heart attack.

Ossietzky’s few, sparse letters to Maud revealed nothing of this treatment—they had to pass through censors, after all—but press coverage of the camps was not encouraging to those worried about his fate. Journalists from the U.S. and England had taken a particular interest in the sudden disappearance of a large swath of the German left. Thanks largely to the testimony of released or escaped prisoners, word of the tortures at Sonnenburg trickled out: Detainees with lice were forced to pull out their pubic hair by the roots. Prisoners knelt while officers pricked their naked buttocks and sex organs with pins.

Reporters demanded to see the more famous political prisoners, wanting proof that they were alive. The braver corners of what remained of the free German press produced reports about Sonnenburg, regularly referencing Ossietzky’s detention. Among them was Die Neue Weltbühne, a version of Ossietzky’s magazine produced in exile, first from Vienna and then from Prague.

Critical coverage, no matter how minor, chafed at the Nazi government. But since Hitler’s regime was still eager to remain in the good graces of the democratic world, the government agreed to occasional press tours. One of the journalists who visited Sonnenburg in May 1933 was the Hearst Press Group correspondent Hubert Renfro Knickerbocker. A beanpole of a Texan with red hair, Knickerbocker had a talent for interviews, even with a subject as shifty as Joseph Goebbels, the Nazi’s minister of propaganda. Following a dinner conversation with Knickerbocker, in March 1932, Goebbels complained in his diary of feeling “squeezed dry like a lemon.” Still, Knickerbocker was extended an invitation to tour Sonnenburg, along with his bespectacled colleague, Louis P. Lochner, the Berlin bureau chief of the Associated Press.

The day of the visit, every cell door was thrown open. Prisoners were forced to sing work songs refashioned with fascist lyrics. Reporters were invited to ask any question of anyone, so long as it was under supervision. No one uttered a bad word about their captors.

Knickerbocker and Lochner had been on friendly terms with Ossietzky for years and sought him out. Questions about his treatment drew stiff, nonspecific responses. Then Knickerbocker broached the subject of books—what kind would Ossietzky request if it were possible for him to receive them? Lochner took note of a puckish smile that crossed Ossietzky’s face. “I think medieval history would be very apropos,” he dared to say.

Ossietzky would lie without protest as drunken officers beat him and screamed, “You Polish pig, die already!”

When the first opportunity for a family visit to Sonnenburg arose, in May 1933, Walter borrowed a car, drove Maud to the prison, and walked with Ossietzky’s wife to the visitors’ entrance. The young guard at the gate mistook the “von” in Maud’s last name as a sign that she was a member of Germany’s upper class, and assumed Walter was hired help. He allowed both women in. 

Once inside they watched Ossietzky approach across the wide, deserted prison yard. “Ossietzky could only move with great effort, with small, obviously painful steps,” Walter later wrote. “Both of his arms hung stiffly at his shoulders, as if his limbs were splinted, almost motionless … and his cervical vertebrae were tightly wrapped in a stiff gray soldier’s neckband, which prevented him from turning his head even a few centimeters to the right or left.” His body looked skeletal. Walter found his rigid expression during their short, near wordless encounter heartbreaking.

“How are you?” the women asked.

He answered in monotone, but with a meaningful pause: “Things are OK… for the moment.”

In his 1950 memoir, gestapo chief Rudolf Diels recalls hearing from Ossietzky’s friends and supporters about the conditions at Sonnenburg and feeling obliged to visit the prison himself. Contemporaries thought Diels was more of an opportunist than a fanatic. Prior to 1933, he had worked for the Prussian Ministry of the Interior and regularly socialized with left-leaning civil servants. He did not have the taste for cruelty that animated large swaths of his agency and the SA. And he did not brace himself for Sonnenburg. He later described it as a place from a demonic dream that made his blood run cold.

Upon entering the prison, Diels demanded to see Willi Kasper, a Prussian state representative for the German Communist Party who was being held there. Diels was escorted to a dungeon-like cell, where at the shout of “Attention!” men in tattered clothes slowly raised themselves to stand. Their swollen heads looked like pumpkins, Diels thought, and their faces were yellow, green, and blue. Welts and clotted blood speckled exposed skin. Kasper was unable to speak, his face contorted in tearless sobs. When Diels saw Ossietzky, the journalist dared to ask in a weak voice that someone rescue him from this hell.


In October 1933, Maud’s sanatorium closed after its Jewish owner was hounded into emigration. Maud was then packed off to distant relations in Hamburg. Walter’s apartment was searched again and again. In November, the Gestapo confiscated correspondence showing that she had been seeking funds on Ossietzky’s behalf. Walter didn’t need to be told to leave: She fled to Paris, leaving Hünicke as Ossietzky’s last close friend in enemy territory.

There were already more than 59,000 German refugees in France, including Gerlach and Zirker. Many in Paris gravitated to artist-friendly Montparnasse and neighborhoods along the Left Bank. Some found shelter in crumbling hotels. Others rented furnished apartments in shabby working-class buildings, sharing hallway bathrooms with masons and shop assistants. Many lived precariously, lightheaded with hunger, their shoes slowly falling to pieces.

Walter found a room at 59 Rue Froidevaux, across the street from the Montparnasse Cemetery. It was an easy walk to Rue Jean Dolent, where the German League of Human Rights kept a tiny office, occupied by Gerlach, Zirker, and a young law student turned volunteer named Konrad Reisner. Zirker served as Gerlach’s secretary while also playing a leading role with the Association of German Journalists in Exile.

From Paris, Gerlach, Zirker, Walter, and Reisner began their first attempts to rescue Ossietzky. They started with legal channels. In early 1934, they tried to hire Alfons Sack to represent Ossietzky and push for his release. Sack was a far-right lawyer who had effectively defended one of the men accused of plotting the Reichstag fire. He turned them down.

Ossietzky had well-connected supporters in London, including playwright Ernst Toller, peace activist Otto Lehmann-Russbüldt, and Ossietzky’s former lawyer, Rudolf Olden, and his wife, Ika. They all made attempts at backdoor political influence. With their help, Gerlach asked the Countess Fanny Wilamowitz-Moellendorff, sister-in-law of Hermann Göring, the second most powerful Nazi, to advocate for amnesty, but was told Hitler opposed the idea.

Lord Ponsoby, an English Labour member of Parliament with contacts in the German Embassy in London, funneled updates on Ossietzky’s health to his friends. Wickham Steed, the former editor of the London Times, published the first major public letter about Ossietzky in his old paper. “He is the symbol of a living protest against tyranny,” Steed wrote. “If it is too much to hope for his release, his claim to the sympathy of the civilized world ought not, I think, go entirely unheard.”

Nothing worked. The efforts at diplomatic and legal intervention went nowhere, as did the influence campaign. Ossietzky remained at Sonnenburg, deteriorating by the day. Fearing the worst, his friends decided to get creative.

THREE

The suggestion first appeared in the pages of the Pariser Tageblatt, produced by and for German exiles in France. On April 16, 1934, editor in chief Georg Bernhard made the case that Ossietzky should be nominated for a Nobel Peace Prize. Days earlier, the Nobel committee had announced that there would be no winner for 1932. It had been a relatively common occurrence since 1914; in the chaotic years after World War I began, eight passed without a winner. But to skip another year without emphasizing the importance of peace, Bernhard ventured, would be a mistake. He urged the committee to look beyond the usual candidates: signatories of treaties, famous politicians, founders of influential organizations. If the prize was a metaphor for peace, who better to receive it than someone suffering for the cause—someone like Ossietzky?

Many of Ossietzky’s supporters quickly rallied behind the idea, hoping that the Nazis would be more likely to release Ossietzky if he won the prize. Gerlach followed Bernhard’s editorial with one of his own. “Before he became a journalist, he was general secretary of the German Peace Society,” Gerlach wrote of Ossietzky. “As a journalist, he championed the idea of ​​peace without wavering. As editor of the Weltbühne he led the fight against the armament of Germany in violation of the treaty.”

Some supporters took the suggestion as a direct call to action. One month after Bernhard’s editorial appeared, Ossietzky’s longtime friend Berthold Jacob sent a nomination letter to Oslo on behalf of the Strasbourg chapter of the German League of Human Rights. Kurt Grossman, who had once convinced the police to let Ossietzky say goodbye to his friends outside Tegel prison, did the same from exile in Prague.

Both men received polite letters of decline. The deadline for submitting nominations for 1934 had already passed. Besides, they learned, only a handful of people were allowed to nominate candidates: former Peace Prize recipients; members of the Nobel committee; members of international governing bodies, the international court in the Hague, or leading peace organizations; and professors of law, history, or philosophy. If Jacob and Grossman wished to secure a nomination for Ossietzky, they had until the prize’s next deadline, the following January, to find a qualified person to submit one.

The rejections provided something of a road map for action by Ossietzky’s friends. “We wanted to save this courageous and in every way excellent man, if possible, from death,” Konrad Reisner wrote years later. Of course, there was no guarantee that a nomination or even being awarded the prize would get Ossietzky out of prison. Still, it might send a message. “It was an incredible chance to deliver a resounding slap in the face to the hated, accursed criminals who had taken possession of our country,” Reisner wrote.

Not everyone in Ossietzky’s network was convinced that embarking on a Nobel campaign would be worth it. Among the skeptics was Walter. She worried that, because Ossietzky wasn’t as well-known as past recipients, it would take considerable work to raise his profile and get the right people in his corner. She also feared that his candidacy could backfire: Too much chatter from the German left in exile could infuriate the Nazis, who might punish Ossietzky for it. And if the Nazis found out that Ossietzky’s friends were behind the effort, they could easily discredit the campaign as a public relations stunt.

Walter agreed to set aside her misgivings under one key condition: Support for Ossietzky’s candidacy could not appear orchestrated by people who knew him. It needed to seem organic and independent, embraced by the public and by official nominators, ideally in countries likely to hold some influence with the Nazis. Only then, Walter believed, could Ossietzky’s supporters hope to exert moral pressure on Hitler’s government, possibly leading to their friend’s release from custody.

The next deadline was just eight months away—there was no time to waste. Walter and Gerlach reached out to their networks in the U.S., which included two Princeton professors, Albert Einstein and Otto Nathan. Einstein, the 1921 Nobel Prize winner in physics, had been a leading member of the League of Human Rights in his Berlin days, and while not himself eligible to nominate Ossietzky, he had enviable professional connections. Nathan, an economist, was similarly well-positioned and was able to provide an essential lift: the financial support to employ a full-time organizer of the behind-the-scenes work by Ossietzky’s inner circle.

This informal group of a few dozen supporters, scattered across Europe and the U.S., would come to call themselves Freundeskreis Ossietzkys, or Ossietzky’s Circle of Friends. It included Gerlach, Zirker, and Reisner in Paris, Grossman in Prague, and Hünicke in Berlin. From London, Toller, Lehmann-Russbüldt, and the Oldens played pivotal roles. The paid organizer was Hilde Walter.

If the prize was a metaphor for peace, who better to receive it than someone suffering for the cause—someone like Ossietzky?

By the time the Circle of Friends began to coordinate its efforts, Sonnenburg had closed as a prison, and its detainees were transferred to labor camps newly designed by the Nazis. In February 1934, Ossietzky and hundreds of others arrived at Esterwegen. The camp was one among a constellation of detention sites in Germany’s Emsland region, sunk into the moors 19 miles from the Dutch border. The prisoners’ burden was to support a massive 120,000-acre wetland reclamation project.

Esterwegen housed up to 1,000 prisoners in wooden barracks organized in two orderly rows, with a street running down the center. The SS called it Hitler Alley; prisoners knew it as the Alley of Sighs. Every morning, officers marched the prisoners through the alley and into the humid, waterlogged fields, where they were forced to dig, using only picks and spades, a minimum of 13 cubic yards daily. Men who failed to meet the daily quota risked violent punishment. (The prisoners became known, among themselves and later in popular culture, as the moorsoldaten, or “peat bog soldiers.” Their field songs would soon rally the Republicans of the Spanish Civil War and symbolize resistance to fascism across Europe.)

Already weakened from the abuse at Sonnenburg, Ossietzky relied on the help of fellow prisoners. They called him Carlchen, their “little Carl.” Out on the moors, they would place him in the middle of a row so the men alongside him could help him dig his quota. Tougher prisoners acted as human shields, placing themselves between Ossietzky and a beating. A former taxi-company operator and boxer from Berlin named Georg Schmidt sometimes followed Ossietzky around like a bodyguard, watching over him during even the briefest cigarette breaks.

Still, Ossietzky’s fragile body often gave out, and he spent weeks at a time in the sick bay. Nazi records did not reflect his declining condition. Reporting to the German Foreign Office just days before Ossietzky’s transfer to Esterwegen in February 1934, Gestapo representatives noted that his “health, according to the camp doctor’s professional opinion, has by no means worsened during his imprisonment, but rather improved.” Seven months later, Esterwegen’s doctor made a similar report: “Current illnesses: none, feels fine. Up until now had no complaints…. Healthy and capable of working. Has not suffered any accidents here.”

Ossietzky was often placed on what was known as household duty. He swept and dusted the barracks. He peeled potatoes in the kitchen. When no guards were around, he read aloud from newspapers until someone whispered, “Achtzehn!” The German word for the number 18 sounded very much like achtung (danger). Achtzehn was the code word for approaching guards. 

Fellow prisoners liked to hear Ossietzky talk. Many hailed from the working classes and participated in labor movements, and Ossietzky’s eloquence on political matters was a special treat. “It was always an experience for us to listen to him, discuss things with him, ask him questions and sometimes hear what he had to say in response to our objections,” prisoner Hubert Serwe later said. “He gave more than he could receive from us.

Ossietzky sometimes joined Theodor Haubach and Wilhelm Lueschner, former representatives in the Reichstag, in discussing literature. They talked animatedly, until they heard the soft call—

Achtzehn!

Sometimes the men would pretend that they were on Berlin’s Kurfürstendamm, their old stomping grounds. They’d meet at Kempinski’s, maybe, order the roast beef, and continue their discussions over a nightcap under the vault-like ceilings of the Romanisches Café—

Achtzehn!

Even in the sick bay, surrounded by emaciated leaders of Germany’s Workers Party, Ossietzky was tempted to make dark jokes: “Now that just about everyone is gathered here, we could form a provisional government”—

Achtzehn!

By all accounts, Ossietzky never talked about his experience at the camp, in letters or with other prisoners. He preferred to discuss the news, politics. When a topic interested him, prisoner Alfred Bender remembered, “Despite his tattered health, everything in him became lively.” Bender sometimes thought it would be wiser to try out some frivolous, less strenuous chatter. No luck. It was impossible, Bender admitted, to have a pedestrian conversation with Ossietzky.


From mid-1934 to early 1935, the campaign for Ossietzky’s Nobel candidacy gained steam. The flow of letters was constant—hundreds of messages written by or to the Circle of Friends, delivered from or sent to France, England, the U.S., Norway, Sweden, Switzerland, and Czechoslovakia. Letters of introduction. Letters of request. Letters of instruction. Letters that in some places could be confiscated from homes, be intercepted in the post, or fall into the wrong hands, alerting the Nazis to what the Circle of Friends was up to and endangering Ossietzky’s life.

As coordinator of the campaign, Walter was a direct but careful communicator. She did what she could to maintain secrecy and urged others to do the same. Her letters were laced with warnings that increased in urgency as time went on: “Confidential.” “Extremely confidential!” “Interesting for us internally but under no circumstances for publicity.” “Confidential! Read alone!! Don’t show anyone!!!” Walter knew that the key to success was keeping the Circle of Friends’ involvement in making Ossietzky a Nobel candidate hidden from the Nazis.

The Circle of Friends and its closest advisers drummed up several nominations before the submission deadline. Einstein, Nathan, and Oswald Garrison Villard, the former editor of The Nation, helped recruit Jane Addams to the cause. The 1931 Nobel Peace Prize laureate, Addams had founded the Women’s International League for Peace and Freedom and was one of ten cofounders of the American Civil Liberties Union. She was joined in nominating Ossietzky by Harold Laski, a professor at the London School of Economics; Helene Stöcker, a German feminist and activist who was on the council of the International Peace Bureau; and Ludwig Quidde, the aged former German Peace Society president and 1927 Nobel Peace Prize laureate. Quidde provided his support reluctantly. Like Walter had been, he was concerned that Ossietzky was too much of a long shot to win the prize, and that nominating him could threaten his safety.

Another nomination came from V. Emil Scherer, a member of the Swiss parliament. “No other advocate for the idea of ​​peace has had to suffer as much,” he wrote. It would be nice, he added, “if the Nobel Prize were awarded not to a famous Prime Minister or Foreign Minister,” but instead to someone who distinguished himself “through loyalty and fearless work in a dangerous position.”

With several nominations secured, Walter turned her attention to increasing Ossietzky’s profile around the world, and particularly in England. The country still clung to appeasement as a viable approach to the Nazi regime, and Ossietzky’s supporters hoped that English nominations might be viewed as less politically motivated. Ossietzky, who by now had been informed of the campaign, seemed to think that this was the right strategy, too. “On the whole, he expressed the wish that everything that happens should, if possible, only happen from England,” Walter wrote, “and that publications should not be in our press, but in the bourgeois world press.”

For help, Walter turned to English journalist Amabel Williams-Ellis, who wrote a pamphlet entitled “What Was His Crime? The Case of Carl von Ossietzky.” It was distributed to influential readers and gained support from some of the most illustrious members of the English intelligentsia, including Aldous Huxley, Bertrand Russell, and Virginia Woolf.

The Circle of Friends faced setbacks. In August 1935, Gerlach died suddenly. And even the most energetic of Ossietzky’s supporters worried that the nomination would not gain traction. Willy Brandt was then a 21-year-old Socialist Workers Party organizer sheltering in Norway. Brandt hustled in Oslo to stoke interest in Ossietzky’s candidacy among journalists and members of the Norwegian parliament. By the end of September, though, he worried in a letter that too many people thought “O. is not well-known enough.”

In October 1935, Swiss diplomat Carl Jacob Burkhardt managed to enter Esterwegen on behalf of the International Red Cross. During his visit, Burkhardt asked to see Ossietzky. At first the camp commander refused, relenting only with extreme reluctance. The reason became apparent when a pair of guards emerged from the barracks carrying a small, frail man. Burkhardt stood face to face with a trembling, deathly pale Ossietzky and took heartbroken inventory: “One eye swollen, teeth apparently smashed in, dragging a broken, poorly healed leg.”

Burkhardt told Ossietzky that he had come as a representative of the Red Cross, but that he also brought greetings from Ossietzky’s friends. “I’m here, in as much as it is possible, to help you,” he said.

At first, Ossietzky said nothing as his eyes filled with tears. When he spoke, he lisped through sobs. “Thank you, tell my friends I’m at the end,” he said. “It’ll be over soon, almost finished. That’s good.” After a moment’s pause, very softly, he added, “Thank you.”

Burkhardt remained to see the five o’clock return of imprisoned workers from the moors. There were about 30 men in all, “a group full of Ossietzkys, cripples emerging from the darkness, under the light of the arching lamps.”

Burkhardt sent reports about his visit to the Nazi government. He arranged for one to be delivered to Hitler directly. There would be no plausible deniability about camp abuses on Burkhardt’s watch.

Walter also heard from numerous prisoners released from Esterwegen, who had found their way to Berlin, Prague, or Paris. She was told that the Circle of Friends’ efforts sometimes made things worse for Ossietzky. “He is said to have said to his wife: ‘The articles abroad have done me great harm,’ ” Walter wrote. “But later he was said to have thought that it might actually be a good thing after all.”

In a letter to Ika Olden, Walter reasoned that “Ossietzky would not be alive today if the international world had not shown an interest in him.” At that same time, she feared that the Nazi apparatus would let him die if the attention fell away. The day the Nobel committee made its decision, she wrote, could be “a death sentence for Ossietzky, if not enough care is taken.”

FOUR

On November 19, 1935, the Nobel committee announced that it would not award a Peace Prize that year. Whatever fears they had, Walter and Ossietzky’s other supporters decided that they had no choice but to double down in the hope of keeping Ossietzky alive. Walter quickly placed an announcement in Le Temps and Le Populaire, France’s biggest dailies, declaring that Ossietzky would be nominated for the prize again, with support from “a large number of important people in Europe and America.” The next Nobel deadline was about two months away, in January 1936.

In Paris, Ossietzky’s supporters published a star-studded appeal designed to attract attention. The 22-page document included a biographical sketch of Ossietzky’s life and a list of Esterwegen’s abhorrent conditions. Heinrich Mann, the German novelist—elder brother of Thomas—provided a foreword. So did journalist and historian Konrad Heiden, one of the first chroniclers of the Nazi era. An appendix shared letters of support from, among others, Einstein, Wickham Steed, and Romain Roland, the beloved French writer and winner of the 1915 Nobel Prize in Literature. Hundreds of copies were sent to professors and members of parliament in nine countries.

Soon, nominations began inundating the Nobel committee. One came from 63 members of France’s Parliament, who cosigned a statement saying, “For millions of people around the world, Ossiesky [sic] is a living symbol of the intrepid struggle for peace.” Leo Polack, a professor of philosophy from the University of Groningen in the Netherlands, wrote, “Carl von Ossietzky dedicated his life to international pacifism in the spirit of the prize, even to the point of martyrdom.”

Serendipitous timing may have boosted the campaign’s efforts. The world’s eyes were trained with particular intensity on Germany in 1936, as it hosted both the winter and summer Olympics. The Nazis had hoped to make the events a showcase for their “new” Germany, but as the international press descended for the Winter Games in February, journalists noted the overbearing presence of soldiers and the signs barring Jews from entering villages—worrying indicators to the international community that all was not well in Germany.

Meanwhile, Ossietzky’s health had worsened. Karl Wloch, a journalist for the communist newspaper Die Rote Fahne who was interned at Esterwegen in 1936, was “shocked to his core” the first time he met Ossietzky. “What I saw living on that sack of hay were just his eyes; he hardly moved his mouth when he asked me short questions,” Wloch later said. “I had to listen carefully in order to understand him.” Ossietzky asked for the latest news from Berlin and listened closely as Wloch reported what he knew. “He wasn’t at all world-weary,” Wloch recalled, “although he knew how difficult it would be to come out of the grasp of the SS executioners alive.”

Their conversation turned to cases of suicide in the camps. “Whether we survive is neither certain nor the main point,” Ossietzky insisted. “But how people think about us later is as important as that they think about us. In that, our future lies. Thus, we have to keep living here as long as we breathe. A Germany that thinks of us will be a better Germany.”

Sixty-three members of France’s Parliament cosigned a statement saying, “For millions of people around the world, Ossiesky [sic] is a living symbol of the intrepid struggle for peace.”

As Ossietzky’s candidacy for the Nobel Peace Prize received more coverage in the international press, the Nazis began to worry that he might actually win. Goebbels himself took to the radio on March 12, 1936, to rage at the prospect. “Treason was once a socially acceptable thing, even a fashionable thing,” he yelled. “And there are still people today who apply for prizes for traitors. However, we only saw a traitor as a criminal. Therefore: Off with his head!”

A few weeks after Goebbels’s speech, the Dutch press reported that Ossietzky was close to death, based on testimony from a prisoner in Esterwegen. The New York Times reprinted the news. The same month, a concentration camp inspector, Theodor Eicke, toured Esterwegen. His internal memo about the visit stated that SS chief Heinrich Himmler’s office should be aware of the possibility of Ossietzky’s imminent demise. It further suggested that Ossietzky receive medical attention at the camp, and that it be documented to counter the inevitable outcry his death would elicit.

Instead, on May 28, the Nazis transferred Ossietzky from Esterwegen to the prisoner’s wing of the Berlin Police State Hospital. The hospital’s supervising physician diagnosed him with an advanced case of tuberculosis. Bacteria had carved deep necrotic caves into the upper lobe of his left lung. In a report to the Red Cross, the Gestapo downplayed his illness as tonsillitis. The Nazis also arranged for Ossietzky to sit for an interview with a regime-friendly Danish journalist, Hans-Wolff Juergensen, in the hospital’s prison ward. Juergensen wrote that Ossietzky was completely changed and on his way to embracing National Socialism.

Then, just a few weeks before the Nobel committee was set to announce its decision for the 1936 award, Maud learned that the Gestapo planned to release her husband, provisionally. Walter suspected that the decision was about optics, that the regime preferred the prize to go “to a free [Ossietzky] rather than to the prisoner.”

On November 7, Maud and Hünicke met Ossietzky at the Gestapo headquarters on Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse. They held their breath as the last bits of paperwork were completed, then hastily exited the doors and emerged into the loud city center. Maud paused just long enough to notice the look of uncertainty on Ossietzky’s pale face. He had been imprisoned for three years and seven months—how could he trust a freedom that came so slowly, then all at once?

Attempts by the Nazis to ensure that Ossietzky didn’t win the Peace Prize weren’t over. Göring himself summoned Ossietzky to his office and tried to persuade him to withdraw himself from consideration. Ossietzky made no concessions. The German ambassador to Norway, Heinrich Sahm, warned his host country that an award for Ossietzky would be considered a hostile act, and that Germany would respond accordingly. There was only so much the Norwegian parliament could do, though; it had the power to select the Nobel committee, but the committee did not consult the government about its decisions. In order to avoid the appearance of a conflict of interest, the two committee members who were also politicians—foreign minister Halvan Koht and Johan Mowinckel, former prime minister and leader of the Liberal Party—stepped away from their award responsibilities.

By the time the Nobel committee was expected to make its decision, nearly 1,000 nominators had submitted their support for Ossietzky. They included six previous Peace Prize recipients, 69 members of the Norwegian parliament, and 59 members of Swedish parliament, who chose to support his candidacy over that of their own prince’s. Ossietzky’s nomination count remains the highest in the award’s history.

On November 23, the committee made its announcement. The 1936 Nobel Peace Prize went to Carlos Saavedra Lamas, the foreign minister of Argentina, for his leadership in brokering the 1933 Argentine Antiwar Pact, which would prove a vital stabilizing force in South America for years to come. The committee also retroactively bestowed the 1935 prize to Carl von Ossietzky.

The exiled German press in Paris exploded in celebration. The news made the front page of the Pariser Tageszeitung, the successor to the Tageblatt. An editorial in Das Neue Tage-Buch called the decision “an exceptional case of moral courage” in a world that sadly lacked it. The international press offered a more blunt interpretation: Ossietzky’s prize was a “slap in the face of fascism,” according to The New York Times.

The German press, now thoroughly beholden to the Nazis, agreed that the decision was an affront to the country’s leadership. “The bestowal of the Nobel Prize on a notorious traitor to the nation is such a brazen provocation and insult of the new Germany, it will be met with an appropriate response,” the German News Agency said in a brief statement. Editors of the Völkischer Beobachter, another official organ of the Nazi Party, didn’t issue a response for three days. When it finally did, it called the Nobel committee’s decision ridiculous. “One could laugh themselves to death” over it, the editors said.

Three days after the announcement, Goebbels complained in his diary, “Yesterday: huge response in the press because of the Nobel Prize to Ossietzky. He’ll be stripped of citizenship and no more Germans will take the Nobel Prize.” Instead, Hitler announced the country’s own awards program, the German National Order of Art and Science. It ran for two years and honored seven Nazi luminaries, including Alfred Rosenberg, the primary theorist of the party’s racist ideology (later hanged at Nuremberg), and SS officer Ferdinand Porsche, whom Hitler had commissioned to engineer a car for the German people, better known as the Volkswagen.

The Circle of Friends acknowledged one another quietly. Securing the prize for Ossietzky had taken the efforts of everyone in the group, but no one had done as much as Walter. “You should be proud,” Konrad Heiden wrote to her. “As far as I can see, it was you in the first place. Surely others also did their good part. But if the recognition of a political possibility, concentration on the one goal, complete commitment of the person and tenacity until the last breath turn a political idea into an action, then you have undoubtedly brought this action into being.”

FIVE

The Nobel Peace Prize ceremony took place in Oslo on December 10, 1936. Ossietzky did not attend, nor did Maud; the Nazis withheld the necessary travel visas. Also absent were the Norwegian king and the crown prince. The same was true of ambassadors from England, Italy, and Denmark, whose governments had ordered them to stay home. An ensemble played the Norwegian anthem but not the German one.

Frederik Stang, a professor of law at the University of Oslo and a former minister of justice, stood before the thin crowd and read a short speech about Ossietzky on behalf of the Nobel committee. Stang opened by emphasizing that Ossietzky did not belong to any political party, and in fact no political tag could easily be pinned on him. If anything, he said, Ossietzky was a “liberal of the old school,” with “a burning love for freedom of thought and expression; a firm belief in free competition in all spiritual fields; a broad international outlook; a respect for values created by other nations—and all of these dominated by the theme of peace.”

He conceded that the laureate was mainly known for his work as a journalist, but disputed the notion that Ossietzky was less deserving of the award because he had become “a symbol of the struggle for peace rather than its champion.”

“In religion, in politics, in public affairs, in peace and war, we rally round symbols. We understand the power they hold over us,” Stang said. “But Ossietzky is not just a symbol. He is something quite different and something much more. He is a deed; and he is a man…. It is on these grounds that Ossietzky has been awarded the Nobel Peace Prize, and on these grounds alone.”

Walter made the journey to Oslo, as a messenger rather than an honored guest. She hoped to persuade the Nobel foundation’s treasurer to postpone sending Ossietzky’s monetary award—163,849 Norwegian kroner, or close to $900,000 today—to Germany. Walter was not alone in fearing that the prize money would fall into the wrong hands. (Ultimately it did: The lawyer Maud hired to oversee the transfer pocketed it and was later convicted of embezzlement.)

Oslo was dark and cold. A hotel strike sent Walter looking for shelter at the home of a local journalist, where she squeezed herself nightly into a child’s bed. Her letters to Zirker in Paris conveyed exhaustion. “The physical hindrances caused by lack of sleep, lack of space, warmth and comfort are terrible for me,” Walter wrote in a moment of unusual vulnerability. “Hands and other places are chapped and sore from the cold.” Other passages in her letters were perhaps intentionally vague. “A lot of other things … wouldn’t be so bad if the fear about the end didn’t come,” she wrote. “I think I can say with a clear conscience that it couldn’t have been done better. But that doesn’t say anything about the final success.”

Walter did not specify what that success would look like, but she may well have meant a plan to get the Ossietzkys safely out of Germany. Officially, Ossietzky wasn’t a prisoner any longer, but Gestapo documents show that the Nazis had no intention of letting him leave the country. Whatever Walter hoped, Ossietzky’s illness was too advanced for him to travel anyway. In February 1937, two months after the Nobel committee had toasted his win, Maud moved into her husband’s hospital room. They stayed there together for 15 months, under strict supervision of the Gestapo.

During that time, Ossietzky wrote letters to his daughter, now living in Sweden. “Our life here is completely uneventful; we don’t have much to report,” Ossietzky wrote. “We think about you a lot; you are our major topic of discussion. I would like to know so much about you! Write us again, it is so nice to get letters from you. I kiss you, your Father.” He read English detective novels, including The Wisdom of Father Brown and Mystery in the Channel. He watched over a little yellow parakeet, a gift from his nurse, which sat in a cage on his bedside table.

Ossietzky died on May 4, 1938, at age 48. “The death of Carl von Ossietzky is a sad loss for the Germany in which I believe,” Ernst Toller wrote in a letter to a friend. “I have known this man since many years. He was one of the few who lived conformed to his ideas.”

Maud planned to engrave pax aeterna on her husband’s headstone, but the Gestapo refused to place any marker on his burial plot in the Berlin-Niederschönhausen cemetery. They wanted an anonymous resting place for the traitor who had become a martyr. No pilgrims would grace Ossietzky’s gravesite on their watch, and no eternal peace would dawn on their horizon.

Germany invaded Poland on September 1, 1939. France and Great Britain declared war two days later. Most of Ossietzky’s friends in European exile scrambled to find a new sanctuary. A way out opened for the Oldens when the New School for Social Research in New York City offered Rudolf a teaching position. On September 13, 1940, the couple joined 406 passengers and crew—including 90 children—on the SS City of Benares. A German submarine torpedoed the ship, sinking it 600 miles from land. More than half of those on board drowned, including the Oldens.

The Paris team needed rescuing. Ossietzky’s friends survived for several weeks in a French internment camp before catching the attention of the Emergency Rescue Committee and the American Friends Service Committee, American relief groups dedicated to relocating anti-fascist refugees. Late in the summer of 1940, organizers arranged U.S. visas and passage on the SS Nea Helles for Walter, Zirker, and Reisner, accompanied by his wife and 16-day-old baby. The ship was departing from the Port of Lisbon, so Ossietzky’s friends had to escape France on foot, walking into Spain across the Pyrenees. Berthold Jacob also attempted to escape but only made it as far as Lisbon, where he was kidnapped by SS operatives and dragged back to Berlin. Kurt Grossman had a less harrowing journey; he settled in New York City and spent the war advocating for refugees with the World Jewish Congress.

Hedwig Hünicke never left Berlin. She struggled to make ends meet by working for small publishing houses. She kept watch over the elderly parents of exiled Jewish colleagues until they were moved to the death camps. After her family home was destroyed in the war, she lived in a cold, damp room in an apartment near Nollendorfplatz, and worked in the circulation department at the Tagesspiegel. She stayed there until her retirement in 1958.

Walter returned in 1952 to a city decimated. With so many familiar buildings gone, homecomers had to rely on street signs, like tourists, even in the neighborhoods of their youth. Once Walter had settled back in the formerly fashionable west end, she again contributed articles to the German press and worked on book projects. Sometimes she’d meet her childhood friend, the once famous trial reporter Gabriele Tergit, at Café Reimann, an old haunt still standing on the Kurfürstendamm. Their talk often turned to Ossietzky. Walter clipped any and all postwar coverage she could find about the man, filling her apartment with binders full of articles. Many she had written herself.

At some point, Walter contemplated publishing a lengthier account of Ossietzky’s story. Among her papers at the Munich Institute for Contemporary History, sandwiched between newspaper clippings and letters typed on tissue-like paper, is an undated book proposal. The 30-page document contains a tidy outline and descriptions for 14 chapters. The project’s title, Der Preis für einen Friedenspreis (The Price of a Peace Prize), suggests a behind-the-scenes account of the Nobel campaign. But what Walter plotted instead was a rather anemic biography of its subject.

As for the Circle of Friends, the proposal contains only one oblique reference to a “narrowly limited group of people based in Paris.” Her papers do not contain any correspondence with publishers, making it impossible to know whether she submitted the book idea for consideration.

Ossietzky was a legend. His name adorned street signs, libraries, and schools across Germany.

What was the price for the Nobel Prize? When she chose her title, Walter may have had Ossietzky’s suffering in mind. Arguably, too, Walter accepted a personal cost—that all she had done for Ossietzky would go largely unknown, in order to preserve the idea that he had received the Peace Prize as a result of a groundswell of international support rather than a hard-fought political campaign.

Prior to Walter’s death in 1976, no one had disclosed the full activities of the Circle of Friends, not even Grossmann, whose 1963 biography of Ossietzky told all manner of stories in its nearly 600 pages. It wasn’t until some 50 years after Ossietzky’s death that a complete picture of his supporters’ quest emerged. In 1988, the University of Hamburg organized an exhibit about the Circle of Friends and published a corresponding book. The University of London published a collection of letters from the Oldens’ papers in 1990, further illuminating the group’s efforts. 

By then Ossietzky was a legend. His name adorned street signs, libraries, and schools across Germany; his statue stood in parks. He had become a physical part of the postwar landscape, the one that elected his supporter Willy Brandt, first as mayor of Berlin, and later as chancellor of the republic.

Brandt did not let Walter go entirely uncelebrated. On her 70th birthday in 1965, just over a decade prior to her death, he presented her with Germany’s Federal Cross of Merit. Unlike the Nobel, this prize, which honors service to the public good, is not a mighty weapon of influence. Since 1951, the German government has handed out more than 262,000 of the small red, black, and gold crosses. The number is so high, in fact, that the Office of the Federal President does not keep a comprehensive list of recipients, nor does it document exactly what each award is meant to praise.

Of this kind of muted recognition, Walter surely approved.


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Love, Interrupted

The Atavist Magazine, No. 154


Kelsey Rexroat is a San Francisco–based editor and writer. Her fiction and nonfiction has appeared in The New Yorker, The Atlantic, LitHub, The Hairpin, and McSweeneys Internet Tendency.

Editor: Jonah Ogles
Art Director: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Alison Van Houten
Illustrator: Musubu Hagi

Published in August 2024.


Ashwini Naidu knew when her car was going over the Golden Gate Bridge, because the rumble of the pavement beneath her changed. She sat in the passenger seat, fully reclined, and clenched her eyes shut. From the driver’s seat, her coworker updated Ashwini on their progress—a quarter of the way across, halfway—until, finally, Ashwini was in the clear.

When they’d started out on their hour-long, southward journey from Sonoma to San Francisco earlier that day, Ashwini was driving. She had intended to follow a circuitous route that would take them over the Richmond–San Rafael Bridge into the East Bay, then west across the Bay Bridge into the city proper. Circumventing the Golden Gate would add 30 minutes to their drive, but Ashwini didn’t care about that. She didn’t realize that her GPS had rerouted them until she noticed the Marin Headlands rising above the highway. She knew what that meant: The bridge loomed ahead. Without hesitating, she pulled her car onto the shoulder of the freeway.

“You have to drive,” she explained to her bewildered coworker. “I can’t see the Golden Gate Bridge.”

Ashwini, who was in her mid-thirties, had never laid eyes on the iconic structure in person. It wasn’t for lack of opportunity—by 2023, she had been living in the Bay Area for three years. The soaring vermilion bridge is one of the first sights that most transplants tick off their must-see list, and Ashwini’s work took her all around San Francisco. Avoiding even a glimpse of it took effort. But Ashwini had made a promise to another woman 7,500 miles away: She would not see the bridge until they were finally hand in hand.

Before she moved to San Francisco—before she fell in love, before she even knew what being in love felt like—Ashwini lived in the vibrant metropolis of Bengaluru, more commonly known as Bangalore. She was gregarious, with a natural curiosity about everyone she met that helped her make friends easily. She was also ambitious. While attending an all-girls Catholic high school, she cofounded a company that offered arts programs for kids.

It was also in high school that Ashwini realized she was attracted to girls. Her feelings seemed natural to her, and she never questioned them until other girls at school began giggling and teasing one another about their crushes on boys. She worried what they would think if she revealed that she didn’t feel the same way, so she kept her romantic inclinations to herself. “I did not even know what being gay meant,” Ashwini said. “The idea of marrying a woman was unfathomable at that time, at least for me.”

Before British colonization, India had a history of tolerance toward diverse sexual orientations and gender identities. That ended with the 1860 passage of Section 377 of the Indian Penal Code, which criminalized “carnal intercourse against the order of nature” as an “unnatural offense,” punishable with a fine and up to life in prison. Although the law didn’t specifically refer to homosexuality, it was interpreted as outlawing same-sex relations. In practice, consenting adults were rarely charged under Section 377, but it was used as a tool for harassment, discrimination, and blackmail against people who fell outside the bounds of heteronormativity.

When a female classmate confided to Ashwini that she had a crush on her, Ashwini was initially alarmed. She told the girl that being together was impossible. In time, however, the shock and bewilderment softened. Ashwini noticed how her heart fluttered when she was around the girl, and she started to crave their moments of connection—even if pursuing them meant hiding their burgeoning relationship. “I don’t know what this is,” Ashwini told her, “but can we promise each other that no matter what happens, we won’t give up on our friendship? Let’s just dive into this and see where it takes us.”

Ashwini’s father often said that if something was done in secret, there must be something wrong with it. He was a stay-at-home dad raising Ashwini and her younger sister, Shalini, while their mother worked. He always listened attentively to Ashwini when she talked about her problems, and he offered encouragement and advice. More often than not she listened. But she pursued her clandestine relationship without her dad’s knowledge. In fact, Ashwini told no one about her girlfriend.

The two girls kept their friend circles separate and were careful not to draw attention to themselves in public. In private their inhibitions fell away as they sought refuge in each other. They sat together in their bedrooms and spun dreams of a shared future: living together in a cozy home until their hair silvered and their faces became etched with wrinkles. They even chose names for their imagined children. “It was a very intense, emotional relationship,” Ashwini said.

Those conversations made Ashwini’s heart pound with both exhilaration and trepidation, because even as she allowed herself to dream, a sense of hopelessness would settle over her, a dark cloud that obscured the future. The life the two girls imagined didn’t seem possible in India. Perhaps, her girlfriend suggested, Ashwini could pursue an engineering degree in the United States. Maybe on another continent, far from the confines of home, their love could blossom freely.

Then one day their shared vision was shattered. “I think I’m straight, and I think you’re straight, too. This whole thing was a big mistake,” Ashwini’s girlfriend told her. The words landed like a blow and seemed to confirm Ashwini’s worst fear: that to feel the way she felt, something must be wrong with her. Perhaps her dad was right about what people did in secret. Perhaps, at her core, she was shameful.

Ashwini began to question her worth. She thought about how disappointed her friends and family would be if they knew the real her. Some days she wondered if she would be better off dead.

Ashwini stayed in India for college, earning her degree in industrial engineering, then began her career. She dated men and had one relationship that lasted several years. Her boyfriend declined to introduce her as his partner to his friends, and Ashwini’s friends and her sister insisted that she deserved better. Such red flags didn’t bother her, however. The relationship was just a way to ignore how she truly felt.

In high school, Ashwini had joined the drama club, and she later acted in a few plays and did voiceover work. She knew how to assume the role of a character, to adopt mannerisms and deliver lines convincingly. By dating a man, she told me, “I had the perfect script. But I didn’t feel that anything was natural. It was not coming from the bottom of my heart.”

Meanwhile, a national debate over gay rights in India was simmering. In 2009, when Ashwini was 21, LGBTQ+ activists achieved a significant victory when the Delhi High Court held that Section 377 violated the country’s constitution by depriving citizens of the rights to equal treatment under the law, to privacy, and to freedom of expression. The decision was a response to a lawsuit filed eight years earlier by an HIV/AIDS advocacy organization called the Naz Foundation, and it effectively decriminalized consensual intercourse between same-sex adults.

The ruling was a significant but short-lived step toward equal rights in India. Public attitudes toward LGBTQ+ lifestyles were still predominantly negative. Following the court decision, a poll conducted by the Hindustan Times and the CNN-IBN television network found that 73 percent of Indians thought homosexuality should be illegal. A coalition of conservative religious and political groups appealed the High Court ruling to the country’s Supreme Court on the grounds that “homosexuality was an offense against public morality and Indian cultural values.” In December 2013, the Supreme Court reinstated Section 377. A panel of judges criticized the High Court for “its anxiety to protect the so-called rights of LGBT persons,” whom it claimed made up only “a minuscule fraction” of Indians. Thousands of advocates gathered across the country to protest the decision, many wearing black arm bands and waving rainbow flags.

Ashwini prided herself on keeping up with the news, but when it came to the headlines about Section 377, she read as little as possible. That doesn’t apply to me, she told herself.

What she believed did apply to her was marriage. She wanted a life partner and all the things that came with it—the stability, the mutual support, the shared history. “I come from a household of a very good marriage,” she said. Growing up she had observed her parents’ devotion to each other in a million small ways. Her father had fixed her mother coffee each morning, and the pair would drink from steaming mugs while discussing the day ahead. Her dad bought her mom saris and helped her drape and adjust the complex garments as she got ready to go out. When Ashwini’s mom left for work, her dad stood on the balcony and waved at her until she was out of sight. At the end of the day, he’d await the first glimpse of her returning home.

Ashwini thought that the only hope of achieving something similar to what her parents had was marrying a man, so she didn’t balk when they suggested an arranged marriage. Their union had been arranged, after all, and they were progressive enough culturally that Ashwini knew she’d be able to veto anyone they presented who didn’t suit her.

Marriage would be the ultimate acting role for Ashwini, but she hoped that it would also be her salvation. She sometimes pictured herself in the ocean, swimming as far away from her true self as she could, yet never finding safe harbor. Marriage to a man could be a lifeline, connecting her to the kind of life she wanted—or thought she did. “I was feeling hopeless,” Ashwini said. “That’s when I just gave up and I said, ‘Let’s do this.’ ”

She and her parents were ready to begin the search for a husband, but first Ashwini wanted to go on a trip—a final adventure before she became a man’s wife. She wanted to go to the mountains of India, but not in order to mimic the trope she’d seen in movies: Woman retreats into nature and discovers herself. Rather, the trip would be one last chance to escape the weight of having to hide her identity. “I just wanted to get away,” Ashwini said. “I wanted to get out of my life.”

Ashwini’s sister, Shalini, had some time off before starting a new job and decided to join her. At the last minute, Ashwini’s friend Shinara decided to come along as well, but she suggested they go to Nepal instead. Ashwini’s solo trip at home was now a group expedition abroad. Still, she was eager to make the most of it.

It was morning when the trio arrived at a backpackers’ hostel in Thamel, Kathmandu’s tourist district. The streets outside were choked with honking cars, swerving mopeds, and pedestrians fanning out in every direction. Ashwini, hungover and sleep-deprived from a pre-departure get-together with friends, browsed the notices on a bulletin board while her sister and friend checked in. When the female manager asked for Ashwini’s passport, she walked over and tossed it on the counter without looking up. “Oh, hello,” the woman’s voice rang out. “It’s OK to not be rude.”

The words yanked Ashwini from her fuzzy headspace. She knew that under normal circumstances she would have greeted the manager warmly and riddled her with questions, and she quickly apologized. “Whatever,” the woman muttered. She had long, dark hair and a confident gaze. She studied Ashwini’s passport for what struck Ashwini as longer than necessary.

Their rooms wouldn’t be ready for several hours, so Ashwini, Shalini, and Shinara settled into the hostel’s adjoining restaurant. As they drank Nepal Ice beer, Shalini began sending her sister over to the front counter on various pretexts: Ask the manager to charge our phones. Ask where the good sightseeing is. Shalini had long suspected that Ashwini liked girls, even if her sister never admitted it outright. “At the time, I was just messing with Ashwini,” Shalini said.

Soon Ashwini caught the manager glancing her way from time to time. Shalini noticed, too. Then Ashwini’s cell phone, plugged in at the front desk, began blaring, “Wake up … Wake up ….” Ashwini leapt from her seat to silence it.

“Why is your alarm set to wake up at two in the afternoon?” the manager asked.

Ashwini explained that she was an account manager for an internet security company in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and she had to be at her office during the American workday. She sensed disapproval in the woman. In South Asia, people who work for American companies can have a reputation for being spoiled and entitled.

Another guest walked by and asked the manager how she was feeling. She reassured the guest that she was fine. “Is something wrong?” Ashwini asked.

“Do you need to know everyone’s stories?” the woman replied.

Ashwini figured she couldn’t make things worse at that point, so she plowed ahead. “Well, I’m on vacation. My room isn’t ready. I have nothing else to do. So if you want to offload it with me, you could just tell me what happened.”

The woman paused for a moment and then said that a confrontation with a coworker had upset her.

“What would make it better?” Ashwini asked.

“A drink,” the woman answered.

Ashwini pointed out that they served drinks at the adjoining restaurant. “I can’t drink while I’m working,” the woman said.

“What time do you get off work?” Ashwini asked. She was going to be at the hostel anyway. Maybe they could get a drink together.

The woman agreed.

Srijana Khatri, who goes by Shree, was Ashwini’s opposite in some ways. She was introverted and reflective, more comfortable in her own company than in large groups, though she was fiercely loyal to her family and her close-knit circle of friends. Her patience and nurturing demeanor, coupled with a gift for listening, made people who’d just met her feel at ease.

Growing up, Shree split her time between Kathmandu and the rural mountain district of Okhaldhunga. Her parents worked for the military, and she was raised primarily by her grandparents, from whom she absorbed an old-soul influence. When she realized that she was gay, she kept it to herself. She wasn’t sure how her family would react. Compared with surrounding countries, Nepal was relatively progressive on LGBTQ+ issues. In 2007, the year Shree turned 13, a Supreme Court ruling made Nepal the first country in South Asia to recognize the rights of the LGBTQ+ community. A few years later, in 2011, Nepal became the first country in the world to include a third gender category on its census. A new constitution, adopted in 2015, prohibited discrimination on the grounds of sexual orientation or gender identity. But national law stopped short of recognizing gay marriages, and to many people same-sex relationships remained taboo. Shree knew of gay people who were thrown out of their homes when they came out to their families.

One day when Shree was 16, her grandfather told her he knew that she was different from other girls. If there was something she wanted to tell him, he said, he was ready to listen. Shree had already envisioned the possible outcomes of confiding in him, and not all of them were positive. “I was overwhelmed, because I didn’t expect him to understand,” she said. Still, Shree decided to be honest with him. To her surprise, he quickly accepted her and even offered advice on navigating the road ahead. The news about her sexuality soon spread through her family, and though her parents asked for some time to adjust, everyone supported her.

As a teenager, Shree had two relationships with women. One never evolved past the casual-dating phase. The other, with a woman seven years her senior, ended when the woman’s family arranged for her to marry to a man. This is just how it is, Shree told herself, meeting the disappointment with characteristic equanimity. She knew that the pressure of family expectations could be intense.

After high school, Shree enrolled in college to pursue a degree in business and finance. Then, on the eve of exams in her final year, she began having seizures. She was diagnosed with epilepsy and spent the next year in and out of the hospital, before doctors found the right medication to stabilize her condition. The ordeal left her feeling daunted about returning to school. She took a job at the hostel instead, managing the property and sometimes covering the front desk.

Shree wasn’t sure why she agreed to have a drink with Ashwini. She’d been in a bad mood all day. Perhaps it was Ashwini’s warm eyes and refusal to be cowed by Shree’s terseness that won her over. She figured, why not? The two women made plans for the following evening.

Then a problem arose. The afternoon of the day Shree and Ashwini were supposed to meet up, Shinara announced that she’d booked a side trip to visit Pokhara, a popular lakeside city six hours from Kathmandu. She, Shalini, and Ashwini would be leaving together that evening on an overnight bus. Ashwini protested. She was the type to always show up when she said she would, even if it was to have a drink with a woman whose name she didn’t yet know. Shinara eyed Ashwini skeptically. She knew that her friend liked women, but she wasn’t about to forgo the Pokhara trip for someone Ashwini had just met. Besides, Shinara said, the woman had helped her book the bus tickets—she knew that Ashwini would be leaving that night.

Ashwini relented. On her way out, she went to the front desk to apologize to the manager, but no one was there. A taxi arrived to take Ashwini, Shalini, and Shinara to the bus station, and while loading their bags they asked about return service when they got back to Kathmandu. The driver said that would be no problem and instructed them to call the hostel manager when they arrived so that she could send for him. He gave them the woman’s number.

Ashwini was so relieved that she now had the chance to apologize for her sudden departure that she forgot to ask the driver for the manager’s name. She saved the number under “Oh, Hello.”

The three women boarded the bus, and the streets of Kathmandu soon gave way to a dark, hilly landscape. The screen of Ashwini’s phone glowed as she pulled up the number she’d saved.

Hey, this is Ashwini, she typed into a new chat.

A moment later her phone chimed.

Ashwini who? Should I know who you are?

Ashwini blushed with embarrassment. Then Shree let on that she was joking.

I’m sorry I didn’t stay back today, Ashwini wrote.

It’s OK, Shree replied. They agreed to try meeting up again in a few days, when Ashwini would be back in Kathmandu for 24 hours before her flight home. Then Shree tested the romantic waters. She wasn’t sure Ashwini was gay, but again she figured, why not?

I have a bad habit when I drink, Shree texted. I like to flirt.

OK. Let’s flirt with the whole town. Let’s paint the town red, Ashwini texted back.

Shree sighed. Subtlety was not going to work apparently. She tried again.

Especially with girls, she wrote.

Sunk down low in her bus seat, Ashwini felt her chest tighten with excitement. Only a few days earlier, she had told her parents to begin the process of an arranged marriage. Years of running away from her sexual orientation had left her exhausted. Shree’s words sent a jolt of energy through her.

Ashwini recalled something that had happened earlier that day. She’d visited the Pashupatinath Temple on the banks of the Bagmati River, where devotees and pilgrims gather to offer prayers and seek blessings from Pashupati, a manifestation of Shiva. The space was adorned with intricate wood carvings and golden spires. The heady fragrance of incense hung in the air. A priest had instructed her in sankalpa, which he translated as making a wish.

Ashwini had hesitated to complete the ritual. She believed in God, but she could never bring herself to pray for anything. Who was she to make requests when God knew what was best for her? But when she put her forehead to the ground in the temple, she felt a desire welling up inside. God, she prayed, once in my lifetime, I want to experience love the way it should feel.

Now, staring at her phone on the bus, she thought that this was her chance, maybe the only one she would get before returning home and getting married. She typed back: When did I say I have a problem with that?

When Ashwini returned to Kathmandu, she and Shree shared a scooter to a café. Ashwini drove while Shree sat on the back and held Ashwini’s waist. Shree was struck by the scent of Ashwini’s perfume—it was fresh and clean. I could smell this forever, she thought.

Ashwini inundated Shree with questions during the ride. When Ashwini learned that Shree was only 23, she balked a little inside. Ashwini was 29. Surely the six-year age gap meant that Shree was too young for them to have much in common. But when they sat down to a lunch of steamed momos, Shree talked about her grandparents and how much she loved spending time with them. She seemed mature beyond her years.

As the two women got to know each other, an unfamiliar giddiness spread through Ashwini’s body like a fizzy drink. It all felt so natural. She wasn’t reeling off a scripted version of what she thought she should be saying. She was just being herself.

Evening descended, and the women made their way to a bar near the hostel. As they sipped their drinks, two local men came over to say hello to Shree. Soon after, Ashwini’s sister and friend walked in. The sight of Ashwini at a table with Shree and two unfamiliar men made them uneasy. Ashwini was relatively well-off, visiting a poor country. What if these locals were planning to take advantage of her somehow? Shalini and Shinara called Ashwini over and voiced their concern: What did Shree want, exactly?

“Relax,” Ashwini told them. “I spent the day with her. She’s different.”

Only a few tables away, Shree could hear the women arguing, and she walked over to them. “Hey, guys,” she interrupted, “I think I’m going to call it a night.” She politely excused herself and walked out.

Ashwini rushed into the street and found Shree a few blocks away. “I’m so sorry,” she said. “I want to apologize for my friends’ behavior.”

“Stop,” Shree said. She told Ashwini that she hadn’t left the bar because she was angry. She was glad that Ashwini had people who cared about her enough to look out for her. But she didn’t like drama, and she had to work in the morning. So she said goodnight. Ashwini returned to the bar. It was now midnight, and her plane home was departing at 5:30 that morning. Ashwini decided that she wouldn’t be on it.

“Listen,” she said to Shalini and Shinara. “I’m not going back to India.”

The other women erupted. “What nonsense!” said Shalini. “You don’t just fall in love with somebody in a foreign country. You think I will leave you here and go back home?”

Ashwini was adamant. She’d spent years overthinking every decision in her life, but in that moment her brain was quiet. She knew that she wanted to stay. Something was happening with Shree, something she hadn’t experienced before, and she wouldn’t walk away from it when it had barely begun. Even just a few more days might be enough to bring the picture into focus, for better or worse.

The following day, Ashwini greeted Shree at the front desk and explained that she hadn’t boarded her flight. “If I stay here for five days, will you hang out with me?” she asked.

A mixture of excitement and disbelief washed over Shree. This woman was rearranging her life to get to know her. She was touched, and she wanted to say yes, but she couldn’t take time off with so little notice. Instead, she agreed to see Ashwini before and after work.

For the next five days, they spent all of Shree’s free time together. Shree brought breakfast to Ashwini’s room each morning, and Ashwini explored the city during the day. When Shree clocked out, they’d meet at a restaurant and spend hours roaming the labyrinthine alleys of Thamel. They talked about past relationships, family, and their religious beliefs, connecting over their shared Hindu culture.

Ashwini was struck that Shree didn’t seem to hide any facet of herself. It made Ashwini feel her own inhibitions more keenly than ever. When Shree reached for her hand at a restaurant, Ashwini reflexively pulled away. She was unsure of the local laws, she explained, and wasn’t comfortable with public displays of affection.

At the end of the five days, Ashwini left Nepal with her thoughts in turmoil. A safe but passionless future awaited her in India; Shree represented the opposite. But she’d told Shree, “You deserve someone who can hold your hand in public and not be shy about it.” Ashwini didn’t know if she could be that person, no matter how much she wanted to.

Now 1,100 miles apart, the two women texted and called each other incessantly. Shree wanted more. She knew that Ashwini was on the cusp of an arranged marriage, which had already cost Shree one relationship. “I like you,” she told Ashwini after a few weeks. “But if it’s a no, that’s fine. We should stop talking right now.”

Ashwini wasn’t sure what to do. She knew the risks she faced: Walking away from an arranged marriage would almost certainly require coming out to her parents, and once her orientation was no longer a secret, who knew what kind of condemnation or rejection she might face—personal, professional, or otherwise? Plus, she would have to learn to accept herself for who she was. The alternative, however, was a life without Shree.

A few days after Ashwini’s 30th birthday, she video-called Shree. Looking at Shree’s face, she knew that she was ready to make the leap. Ashwini asked Shree to be her girlfriend.

A Threat and a Promise

In August 2018, Shree visited Ashwini in India. Ashwini worried how they would mesh in her home environment, particularly when easygoing Shree saw how driven she was in her career. But having Shree in her apartment felt natural. The women discovered that they both loved to cook, and they spent many evenings delving into new recipes. When they dined out, they dissected the ingredients of dishes and strategized how they might re-create them at home. Shree listened to Ashwini talk about her work and offered advice and encouragement. The two women discussed moving in together, but Ashwini couldn’t find a good job in Nepal, and Shree’s family had discouraged her from moving to India while same-sex relationships remained illegal there.

Then, the month after Shree’s visit, responding to petitions requesting a review of its earlier ruling, the Indian Supreme Court unanimously struck down Section 377. Intercourse between adults of the same sex was no longer illegal. “Criminalizing carnal intercourse is irrational, arbitrary, and manifestly unconstitutional,” said justice Dipak Misra as he delivered the decision. Outside the courthouse, LGBTQ+ advocates hugged and cheered. Two months later, Shree quit her job at the hostel, left Nepal, and moved into Ashwini’s apartment. She found work at a nearby motorcycle shop.

Despite the court’s decision, Ashwini was nervous about living with Shree. India remained a conservative country, and Ashwini worried about being rejected or ostracized if she came out. She introduced Shree to her parents as her roommate and avoided having coworkers and acquaintances visit her at home. When the housecleaner came, Ashwini told Shree, “Don’t be in the same room as me. Don’t be too close with me. Behave like we are friends.”

Shree found herself tiptoeing around her own home. “I was so scared in the beginning,” she said. She had come to India for Ashwini but felt like she was being asked to hide who she was. “All the time we were together in Bangalore, we never held hands in public,” Shree said. “That’s not how it’s supposed to be.”

Still, Shree was patient and forgiving by nature. She remembered stories of people who’d been disowned for coming out to their families. She knew how much Ashwini’s family and career meant to her. “Each of us has our own coming-out journey,” she told Ashwini. “Just because we are together, it doesn’t have to accelerate yours. Whatever your journey is, all I’m asking is to go with you.”

Ashwini wanted to lead an open life someday, but in the meantime there was a more pressing matter: Her parents still wanted to find her a husband. When she’d returned from her trip to Nepal, she’d informed them that she’d changed her mind about arranged marriage. She wasn’t ready to tell them about Shree, so instead she took aim at the institution itself. “Marriage is bullshit,” she told her parents. “Half of them end in divorce. I make a good income and don’t want to risk getting stuck paying alimony to some man.” As Ashwini tried to bury the topic, she considered her parents’ ages. They were in their late sixties. Perhaps they’d be gone before the real reason for her resistance became apparent. The thought brought a guilt-tinged sense of relief.

Ashwini’s parents were bewildered by her sudden hostility toward marriage. They broached the topic whenever she visited, so over time she saw them less and less. One day her mom asked her to meet for coffee. It was an unusual request—Ashwini didn’t drink coffee—but she agreed. The two women barely spoke as they sipped their beverages. It was only when Ashwini was driving them home that her mom opened up. She spoke about an older woman in their family who had never found a partner and now lived in lonely solitude. “I worry about that for you,” she said. Ashwini’s mom turned her gaze out the car window. “I’m not asking you to get married because I’m worried about what our friends say or what society says,” she continued. “I’m asking because I don’t want you to grow old without companionship. I want you to have what I’ve found with your father.”

I have that already, Ashwini thought.

“You’ve got to give me a reason,” her mom said. “You can’t just say you don’t want to get married.”

Silence hung in the air. They had already reached the house, but Ashwini continued driving around a nearby lake. They could go in circles forever, Ashwini thought, or she could jump off the ledge she was standing on. “It’s because I don’t like boys,” she said at last. Another long pause followed before her mom asked, “Are you trying to tell me you like girls?”

“Yes,” Ashwini said.

And then she told her mom about Shree. Once the words began, they tumbled out. Ashwini talked about how hard the years of secrecy and shame had been, how she’d even considered taking her own life, and how everything had changed when she heard Shree’s voice at the hostel in Kathmandu. Ashwini had always been on the move, always striving, always running away from herself. Shree was teaching her how to embrace stillness and be comfortable in her own skin. “I feel like I can breathe now,” Ashwini said.

Ashwini’s mom asked her to drive to a nearby store. She went in, bought three pairs of shoes, and got back in the car. Ashwini, still reeling from her confession, waited for a reaction, but none came. “Mom, I just shared the most intimate part of my life,” Ashwini said. “Do you have anything to tell me?”

“I’m not saying anything because my blood pressure is very high right now, and I can feel that I need my medicine,” her mother replied. “Can you drive me home?” She didn’t say another word until they’d walked inside. Then her mother turned to Ashwini and said, “Don’t tell Dad anything. Let me break it to him.”

Ashwini didn’t sleep that night. The next day her dad called. “Your mom told me something very big,” he said. He invited her over for lunch. When she arrived, he began to talk about one of his favorite Bollywood actors, who had come out in support of the transgender community. He mentioned how, in Mumbai, trans people have a prominent place in some cultural traditions. He also talked about how hard their lives could be.

Ashwini struggled to follow where the conversation was heading. “Dad, get to the point,” she interrupted. He looked at her directly. “Did we miss something biologically when you were born?” he asked.

Ashwini realized that he was confused, that he thought she might not identify as a woman. “Dad, I’m just a girl like any other girl, but I like girls. This is just who I am,” she said. She explained that before she met Shree, she felt like she would have been happy with only a fraction of the devotion he and her mother shared. But with Shree, she had found all of it. Now she couldn’t settle for anything less.

Her father’s eyes seemed to soften, and Ashwini sensed that she had connected with him. “You’ve been the perfect daughter,” he said. She had excelled in her education and career. Other parents in the neighborhood told him that they wanted a daughter like Ashwini.

Then her father dashed her hopes. “All the right you’ve done has been made wrong with this one thing,” he said. “I’m never going to be OK with it.”

Ashwini left the house in tears. She had always been close to her dad. “He was my hero all my life. He was my go-to guy. And I didn’t have him this time,” she said. “That really, really hurt me.”

Despite how they’d reacted, Ashwini stayed in contact with her parents. When she tried to discuss anything related to the LGBTQ+ community, they looked at her like she was speaking a foreign language. But grappling with a gap in understanding was better than not seeing her family at all—Ashwini loved her parents and didn’t want to lose them.

Shree and Ashwini continued living together while hiding their relationship from most people. Then one evening, while Ashwini was home alone getting ready to go to a friend’s party, there was a knock at the door. She opened it to find two men in plain clothes, one holding a notebook. They introduced themselves as police officers and pelted her with questions: What company do you work for? Where is your office? What is your phone number?

“Why do you need this information?” Ashwini asked. They gave a vague answer about crime in the neighborhood. Cold dread spread through her body. Why were they really there? Were they even police officers? Two of her male friends had come out to her a few years earlier, and they’d told her stories about harassment: how people showed up at gay Indians’ homes pretending to be police or media, gathered information, then threatened to expose them to their employers and families, sometimes extorting them for money. Ashwini’s tech job and the upscale neighborhood she lived in made her a target.

She knew she could ask for the men’s IDs to verify that they were law enforcement. She also knew that in India male officers must have a female officer present to approach a woman after 6 p.m.—she could ask the men to leave and return with a female colleague. But Ashwini was rooted to the floor in fear, and any words of reproach were stuck in her throat. She tried to appear casual as she answered the men’s questions.

When they asked, “What about the girl who lives with you?” her heart sank. Ashwini hadn’t told her landlord about Shree. How did these men know? Ashwini gave the strangers a few basic details, and finally they turned to go. “Be safe,” one of them said. The words hung in the air as Ashwini closed the door.

Ashwini went to her friend’s party, but her mind was miles away. She tried to smile and make small talk, but her unease grew as scenarios played out in her mind. Eventually, the roar of anxiety in her head drowned out the music and conversation. Without saying goodbye, she walked out the door and drove home to Shree.

Ashwini woke Shree up when she arrived. The two women spoke in hushed voices as they discussed the encounter and what it meant for them. They had attracted the wrong kind of attention; the apartment no longer felt safe. The front door was bolted, but the presence of the men seemed to lurk just beyond it. How long would it be before they returned?

Shree felt especially vulnerable—she had come to India alone, with Ashwini as her sole support system. “I don’t feel free here,” she said. The words unsettled Ashwini, and she felt a strong sense of guilt. The women sat next to each other in heavy silence. Then Shree asked, “Do you think our lives would be different in a country that accepts us?”

As if the universe had heard Shree’s question, the next day Ashwini learned that her company was hiring for a position similar to hers in California. Suddenly, moving to another country—one where same-sex relationships were legal—felt like a real possibility. Ashwini interviewed for the job and got it.

Ashwini and Shree came up with a plan: After Ashwini left for the United States, Shree would pack up their apartment in India and return to Nepal to begin the process of obtaining a U.S. visa. At the same time, Ashwini would find an apartment for them in San Francisco. They hoped to reunite in about a month.

Before her departure, Ashwini and Shree celebrated Ashwini’s birthday with friends who knew about their relationship. One of them persuaded Shree to wear a dress to the party despite her preference for more casual clothes. After everyone gave gifts to Ashwini, the guests told Shree it was her turn—not to give a present, but to receive one. They pulled her to the center of the room and had her close her eyes. When she opened them, Ashwini was kneeling in front of her holding a watch engraved with the words “Marry me.”

“Srijana Khatri,” Ashwini said, “you had me at ‘Oh, hello.’ ”

Shree hesitated for only a moment. Being the center of attention made her want to run, but she didn’t have any doubts about her love for Ashwini. Shree said yes. They would start their new life together, engaged, in San Francisco.

The couple knew little about the city. Shree had heard from guests at the hostel in Kathmandu that it was an open-minded place. And Ashwini was aware that the Bay Area was a hub for technology and innovation. The only concrete thing they could picture was the Golden Gate Bridge, and once they’d decided to move, it seemed to be everywhere. Magnets depicting the bridge already adorned their fridge, souvenirs from Ashwini’s colleagues who’d visited the U.S. On their coffee table sat a book of photography—a gift from a friend—with the bridge on its cover.

The structure came to symbolize the life they would soon be building together. Shree urged Ashwini to visit the Golden Gate once she’d arrived in San Francisco, but that didn’t feel right to Ashwini. She wanted to see it for the first time when they were side by side. She vowed to wait until they were together again.

The Separation

Ashwini moved in January 2020. She stayed in downtown San Francisco while hunting for an apartment. On weekends she took in the local sights—the Ferry Building, Lombard Street, the city’s Museum of Modern Art—but never the Golden Gate Bridge. Meanwhile, in Nepal, Shree discovered that she needed a letter from the motorcycle shop where she’d worked in India confirming her employment. She returned to India in mid-March to get the letter, only packing enough clothes for the two nights she planned to crash on a friend’s couch. She hoped that the short setback wouldn’t delay her reunion with Ashwini.

By then news of COVID-19 was sweeping the globe, as the virus wormed its way through China, Europe, and the U.S. Before long it was everywhere. In San Francisco, shelter-in-place orders were announced on March 16, closing all but essential businesses. In India, Shree had already checked in for her return flight to Nepal when the Indian government sealed the borders and restricted movement inside the country. She was trapped.

Shree felt angry. She had left her job, her family, her country for Ashwini. Now she was stuck in India while her fiancée was thousands of miles away. She felt like she had nowhere to turn. Where would she stay until flights resumed? Even friends were cautious about letting anyone but immediate family into their homes.

As she sheltered in San Francisco, Ashwini felt helpless. All she could do was make a list of every hotel and hostel in her old neighborhood and call them one by one to see if they had space for Shree. The hotels weren’t accepting new guests; the hostels were asking current ones to leave.

She’d hit dead end after dead end when Ashwini received a call from her parents. Their relationship remained strained; her decision to move to California hadn’t helped. But her parents knew that Shree was stranded in their city, and they asked Ashwini if she had a place to stay. Ashwini replied that she was figuring it out, but they weren’t satisfied with her answer. “That girl trusted you and came to Bangalore. You’re responsible for her safety, and you’re not here,” her mother said. “So, by virtue of being your family, we are responsible for her safety. Ask her to move in with us.”

Ashwini was stunned. She knew how meaningful it was for her parents to invite Shree into their home. She ran the idea past Shree, who was dubious. “This is the craziest thing we’ve done yet,” Shree said. But there were no other options.

When Shree showed up at the house with nothing but her backpack, Ashwini’s parents welcomed her with cool politeness. They were fond of the kind, considerate young woman they’d known as their daughter’s roommate. Now that Shree was engaged to Ashwini, they weren’t sure how to act around her—a living reminder of their daughter’s sexual orientation was sitting on their couch, using their bath, sharing a room with Shalini. “At least for two weeks, all of us were very awkward,” Shree told me.

Shree made a strong effort to connect with her hosts. Ashwini’s parents were older and particularly vulnerable to COVID, so Shree helped with the shopping and other errands. She cooked for the family, making momos and other Nepalese dishes part of the household’s meal rotation. She practiced yoga with Shalini to stay active. She ate lunch with Ashwini’s father and shared tea with her mother as the evening shadows lengthened.

Shree also began accompanying Ashwini’s mother to the local Hindu temple, which remained open for worship. It was a 20-minute walk away. “She would talk and I would listen,” Shree said. “She really liked that.” Shree also spoke at length with Shalini, who had been wary of her ever since Ashwini had chosen to stay behind on the girls’ trip to Nepal. Sharing her room with Shree, Shalini’s perception shifted. “We started to see each other in our own light,” Shalini said. “I got to find out more about her, her past, what she likes, her principles, her beliefs, and she got to see those things in me.”

Most important, Shalini recognized Shree’s devotion to her sister. She saw how they balanced each other and carved out spaces in their lives for their relationship every single day. She saw in their sacrifices expressions of love. Soon she was joking with Shree, “Come on, you can do better than my sister.”

India’s ban on air travel was extended week after week. When the government began allowing some flights, tickets were hard to come by and prices were exorbitant. Shree’s brief stay of a few weeks turned into ten months. It wasn’t until January 2021 that she was able to return to Nepal and resume her visa application process.

Saying goodbye to Ashwini’s family was bittersweet, because they’d come to accept Shree as part of their lives. “She’s very compassionate,” her mother told Ashwini one day. “She’s very smart.” Shalini had grown to care about Shree like a second sister. “I’ve always said that while Ashwini fell in love with Shree, I chose to make Shree my family,” Shalini said.

Ashwini found that avoiding the Golden Gate Bridge was no easy task. San Francisco is compact and hilly. The bridge rises 746 feet above the bay; on a clear day you can glimpse its distinctive towers peeking above the skyline from almost anywhere. Ashwini navigated the city with determined precision, keeping vigilant track of where the bridge stood in relation to her and avoiding vantages that might be intruded upon by its iconic silhouette.

Ashwini moved from one short-term apartment to another before she found a permanent place in Pleasanton, about an hour outside the city. She was in no danger of seeing the bridge from there, but sometimes she had to drive into San Francisco for client appointments. When she crossed the Bay Bridge between Oakland and San Francisco, about ten miles east of the Golden Gate, she focused on the car in front of her so she wouldn’t see the bridge out the passenger-side window. When she started a hiking group with friends, she avoided outings in places where the bridge might be visible.

Ashwini and Shree never expected their separation to last as long as it did. In Nepal, Shree’s visa appointment was postponed again and again. She worked at the hostel to make ends meet. Ashwini visited her twice, staying a month each time. They rented a furnished apartment together, shopped for groceries, cooked paneer and curries, and watched cricket on the couch, with Shree explaining the intricacies of the sport to Ashwini. They playacted at normal life. Then Ashwini had to go.

During her second visit, Ashwini’s parents also traveled to Nepal to meet Shree’s family. Everyone gathered at Shree’s aunt’s house for an enormous lunch and then sat in the living room to talk. Although they spoke different languages, the two families managed to communicate through gestures and expressions. Afterward, everyone retired to various rooms for a nap. “Shree and I were in a cousin’s room,” said Ashwini. “We were just lying on the bed, looking at the mountains, thinking, ‘Can you believe that our families are having an afternoon siesta together under the same roof?’ We were in disbelief.”

Everyone went to temple that evening. Before they parted ways, Shree’s mother asked her to translate a question for Ashwini’s parents: “Ask them if they like my daughter.” Ashwini’s father answered simply: “She is also our daughter.” They were words neither Shree nor Ashwini ever imagined they’d hear.

Days later, Shree quit her job at the hostel when her employer asked her to work instead of taking her scheduled vacation time while Ashwini was still visiting. It was a principled stand, but a foolhardy one: Her long-awaited visa appointment was coming up in a few months, and being unemployed could be seen as evidence of financial instability, diminishing her chances of getting government approval to spend time in the U.S. It didn’t matter that Ashwini could support her, because they weren’t yet legally related.

Ashwini called the lawyer working with her and Shree. “What if she were my wife?” Ashwini asked. The lawyer confirmed that this would help at the appointment. It would be best if they married in an English-speaking country, so that the paperwork wouldn’t need to be translated.

Ashwini went back to the U.S. and put together a spreadsheet. She found 30-some countries that had legalized same-sex marriage. Only a handful allowed foreigners to marry there, and of those, there were three English-speaking countries that seemed like a good fit: the UK, Australia, and Canada. Ashwini was hopeful that Canada would work, but she discovered that the wait for a visitor visa could be as long as six months. Her shoulders slumped with defeat, and she returned to the drawing board.

Then a friend she hadn’t heard from in a while called. As it happened, the friend was in Los Angeles waiting to board a flight to Australia, where several of her Indian family members would be joining her. She said it had been easy to get them all visas. It only took a week, and it didn’t require going to a consulate or embassy—everything could be done online. Ashwini rushed to her computer.

In less than a month, both Shree and Ashwini had visitor visas for Australia. They arrived down under in March 2023 and were married on a beach south of Sydney, with only their photographer, a videographer, an officiant, and a local friend in attendance. Rain had darkened the skies throughout the preceding week, but the sun emerged on their wedding day, casting a warm glow over the turquoise waves. Both of them wore tailored pantsuits: Shree’s was powder pink, Ashwini’s dark teal.

Standing hand in hand in the sand, they said their vows. “The road to today has been a long and arduous one,” Ashwini told Shree. “I’m forever grateful for your love, patience, and trust. On this beautiful sunny day, with the mighty Pacific Ocean as my witness, I promise you that I will not rest until we get you home where you belong with me.”

In return, Shree said, “Today I want to start by telling how much I love you. And I thank God every day that you have given all of your love to me. You have moved mountains for our love.” As the officiant pronounced them wife and wife, they kissed and then raised their arms and cheered.

A month later, Shree arrived at the U.S. embassy in Kathmandu and sat down for her visa appointment. She was applying as a dependent rather than a visitor. Nervous about saying anything that might hurt her chances of getting approved, she’d reviewed a long list of questions that might come up. But the official only asked three things: What does your spouse do? When did you get married? Do you have some photographs? After looking at the photos, he said, “OK, you’re approved.”

Shree thought she must have misunderstood. She and Ashwini had withstood bigotry, three years of COVID lockdowns, countless long-distance calls, and a seemingly endless wait broken up by only the briefest of reunions. Surely the end of that saga would involve more than three simple questions.

“Did you say approved?” Shree asked.

“Yes,” the official said, already shuffling aside Shree’s paperwork for his next appointment. “You can collect your document from the bank in about a week.”

The Bridge

Shree landed at San Francisco International Airport in June 2023. Ashwini picked her up and they drove north on highway 101, straight to the Golden Gate Bridge.

They wore matching gray tees that read “Love Wins” in rainbow-colored cursive. As they approached the bridge, they pulled off at Crissy Field and spread out a picnic blanket. Ashwini had packed a San Francisco–themed lunch of avocado toast on sourdough bread. They clinked plastic cups of sparkling water together and looked up at the expanse of steel stretched before them.

A bank of fog hung low over the Marin Headlands in the distance, and they zipped up their jackets against the late-spring chill. Ashwini thought about the massive feat of engineering that had brought the bridge into being. Perhaps, with modern tools and technology, it wouldn’t be so hard to build it today. But in the 1930s, the endeavor had taken steadfast vision to overcome years of obstacles and setbacks. Ashwini’s journey to be with Shree felt similar—they’d navigated delays and discouragement to reach a goal that at times felt like little more than fantasy.

Later that summer, the Supreme Court of Nepal allowed provisional registration of same-sex marriages while it considered a case on the matter. (The court has yet to issue its ruling.) Meanwhile, the Indian Supreme Court was weighing a similar decision. The oral arguments in that case had occurred in April and May, and Ashwini had followed the proceedings online. She heard the petitioners argue about why marriage equality mattered and realized that they were expressing ideas she’d never been able to articulate. She remembered the night when the two men who might have been police came to her apartment. “I had this dirty feeling in my stomach. I could not describe what that feeling was,” she told me. “When I was listening to the arguments, I finally found the words. What I felt that night was that I was stripped of my dignity. It was so unacceptable for me.”(In October 2023, the Supreme Court rejected the petitioners’ case; as of this writing, same-sex marriage remains illegal in India.)

The desire to reject indignity was what prompted Ashwini to embark on “this adventure,” as she sometimes refers to what followed, with the woman she now calls her wife. Sitting in Crissy Field, Ashwini smiled at Shree.

“What do you think of the Golden Gate Bridge?” she asked.

“It’s very pretty,” Shree replied.

Neither of them were looking at the bridge.


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Mayday

MAYDAY

The race to find four children who survived a plane crash deep in the Amazon.

The Atavist Magazine, No. 147


William Ralston is a freelance writer living in London. His work has appeared in Financial Times Weekend, GQ, the Guardian, Vanity Fair, and Wired, among other publications. He won the Best Sportswriting award at the 2023 British Journalism Awards.

Editor: Jonah Ogles
Art Director: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Marta Campabadal Graus
Photography: Associated Press, Colombia’s Armed Forces Press Office via AP
Illustrator: Joel Kimmel
Additional Research: Bettina Boulton and Mat Youkee

Published in January 2024.


Hernando Murcia was the kind of pilot who flew routes others wouldn’t dare. Murcia worked for Avianline Charters, one of the air taxi companies that shuttle people across Colombia’s Amazon region, a pristine expanse of rainforest roughly the size of California. The forest is dark, dense, and often treacherous. There are no roads, much less commercial airports. The meandering rivers have strong currents and teem with predators, including piranhas and anacondas. Jaguars prowl the banks.

Violent rebel groups and drug smugglers are known to hide out in the region. Otherwise it’s sparsely populated. The people who do call the Amazon home are mostly members of indigenous tribes, and they rely on privately chartered flights to reach the outside world.

To take these flights is often to risk death. Landing strips used by Avianline and other companies are no more than makeshift clearings of dirt and gravel amid thick vegetation; many of the sites fail to meet the safety standards of Colombia’s Civil Aviation Authority. Thunderstorms, heavy rainfall, and strong winds are frequent. Because Colombia does not set an age limit for aircraft, the small propeller planes that fly the Amazon’s routes are often so old that they don’t have autopilot or other modern safety features. Pilots must be alert to rattles and to odors that don’t seem right. To navigate, they must rely on instinct shaped by experience. The skies over the rainforest are plagued with radio blind spots, requiring pilots to travel long distances without any contact with the ground.

None of this bothered Murcia. The 55-year-old had been piloting small airplanes in Colombia for more than 30 years, working for Avianline since 2021. He was willing to fly through torrential rain, even though it could crash a prop plane in a heartbeat. Once, in 2017, the aircraft he was flying experienced engine failure, and he managed to make an emergency landing on an unfinished road, saving the lives of his passengers.

On April 30, 2023, Murcia agreed to pilot a flight from the southern Amazon town of Araracuara to San José del Guaviare, a population center more than 200 miles to the north that is connected to Colombia’s road network. His aircraft would be a blue and white Cessna 206 with the registration number HK2803. The plane was manufactured in 1982, but it had only been operating in Colombia since 2019. Before that it accumulated thousands of flight hours in the United States. In 2021, prior to being purchased by Avianline, HK2803 had crashed. No one on board was seriously injured, but damage to the propeller, engine, and a wing required extensive repairs before the plane could be put back in service.

Murcia was late to arrive in Araracuara because a storm delayed his incoming flight, so the HK2803 trip was moved to the next morning, and Murcia stayed in town overnight. Before going to bed he called his wife, Olga Vizcaino, to tell her that he loved her. He asked her to give their daughters a hug for him. Early the following day, Murcia sucked down some coffee, scrambled eggs, and plantains, then made his way to the Cessna to carry out his usual preflight inspection.

HK2803 was supposed to be carrying representatives from a company called Yauto, a broker of carbon credits between indigenous populations and multinational firms. But sometime before takeoff, members of the Colombian military stationed in Araracuara approached Murcia. They told him that there was a change of plans: He needed to evacuate an indigenous family who feared that a local rebel group wanted them dead.

As the family hurried into the rear of the Cessna’s cabin, a local indigenous leader named Hermán Mendoza clambered up front next to Murcia; he said that he was there to ensure the other passengers arrived at their destination safely. Murcia added everyone’s names to the flight manifest, radioed the information to Colombian air traffic control, then revved the plane’s engine.

At first the Cessna wouldn’t budge. The recent downpour had turned Araracuara’s landing strip into mud, and the plane’s wheels were mired. As Murcia fought to free the aircraft, one of its wheels hit a divot, tilting the plane so much that the propeller bumped the ground. Finally, just before 7 a.m. on May 1, he managed to take off.

The skies were blue that day, and there was a light wind. For around half an hour all was well. But as the Cessna approached Caquetá, a Colombian department that contains one of the densest, wettest, most remote corners of the Amazon, something went wrong. Over his radio, Murcia declared engine failure.

“Mayday, mayday, 2803,” he said. “My engine is idling. I’m going to look for a field.”

Air traffic control pointed him toward nearby landing strips and reported the emergency to the Colombian Air Force, but then the Cessna’s radio signal cut out. Fifteen minutes later it returned, and Murcia reported that the engine was working again. But not for long: Eight minutes later, Murcia was back on the radio.

“Mayday, mayday, 2803, 2803, my engine failed again,” he said.

The Cessna was no longer flying—it was gliding. Murcia needed an opening in the landscape below him, somewhere he could set the plane down and search and rescue could find it. But in the Amazon, such openings are exceedingly rare. In emergencies some pilots aim for a bushy tree; if an aircraft’s velocity is sufficiently reduced and its nose remains lifted on impact, the foliage can sometimes cradle a plane until help arrives.

Instead, Murcia decided to shoot for water. “I’m going to look for a river,” he said. “Here I have a river on the right.” Air traffic control asked him to confirm his location. “One hundred and three miles outside of San José,” Murcia responded. “I am going to hit water.”

These were the last words air traffic control heard from Murcia. Moments later, radar recorded the Cessna taking a sharp right turn. Then, around 7:50 a.m., it disappeared.

Neither Avianline nor the air force saw any sign of the crash: no debris, no smoke, no conspicuous swath cut through the rainforest’s canopy. All they saw was a seemingly endless sea of green.

Word of the Cessna’s disappearance spread quickly. In Bogotá, the Search and Rescue Service of the Colombian Civil Aviation Authority reviewed the plane’s last known coordinates and calculated the maximum distance it could have glided before crashing. This provided a broad area of interest for a recovery mission.

By 8:15 a.m., authorities had picked up a distress signal from the plane’s emergency locator transmitter, a device triggered by impact from a crash. The ELT would also broadcast approximate GPS data every 12 hours until its battery died, which would happen after two days. The Cessna appeared to be somewhere in an area of around 1.5 square miles, near a small community called Cachiporro along the Apaporis River. Maybe that was where Murcia had attempted his water landing.

When a plane crashes in Colombia, the responsibility for finding it normally lies with the Civil Aviation Authority, which will arrange for both the military and the air force to dispatch recovery teams. But the vast wilderness and unique dangers of the Amazon meant that it was initially deemed too risky to send anyone on foot. Only the air force was deployed, and it sent surveillance planes over the jungle near Cachiporro, hoping to spot the wreckage or possibly survivors.

There was reason for hope. People had survived crashes in the Amazon before, in Colombia and elsewhere. Most famously, in 1971, a 17-year-old named Juliane Koepcke fell from an altitude of more than 10,000 feet after lightning struck LANSA flight 508. She walked alone for 11 days in the Peruvian jungle before being rescued.

As the Colombian air force got to work, Freddy Ladino began organizing his own search for HK2803. Ladino, 40, with a shaved head and pearly white teeth, is the founder of Avianline. By 10:30 a.m. the day of the crash, the company had sent up several of its other planes to look for HK2803. But neither Avianline nor the air force saw any sign of the crash: no debris, no smoke, no conspicuous swath cut through the rainforest’s canopy. All they saw was a seemingly endless sea of green. Searchers would have to take another approach, and fast.

As Colombian authorities and Avianline regrouped, the families of the passengers aboard HK2803 received word that their loved ones were missing. Murcia’s wife was at home with her daughters when she got the call. She prayed that her husband was alive and decided to keep the television turned off. The crash was already making headlines, and she didn’t want to get caught up in speculation.

The last-minute change to the HK2803 manifest supercharged the media’s interest in the crash. The indigenous family on the flight included a woman named Magdalena Mucutuy Valencia (34) and her four young children: daughters Lesly (13), Soleiny (9), and Cristin (11 months), and son Tien (4). Within hours of the Cessna vanishing, the fate of Magdalena and her children became an obsession in Colombia. International interest followed. In the weeks to come there would be breathless news segments, finger-pointing, misinformation, and dashed hopes. It would be 40 days until the world had answers.

For Magdalena the jungle had always been home. A member of the indigenous Witoto tribe—sometimes spelled Uitoto—she grew up on the fringes of Araracuara, a place so remote that electricity must come from gas generators or solar panels, and cell service is only available at the small landing strip. The closest road is several days away through the rainforest. Araracuara sits on the northern rim of a canyon through which the Caquetá River thunders; the rapids are almost impossible to navigate by boat. Between 1938 and 1971, the government ran a penal colony in Araracuara for Colombia’s worst criminals. Prisoners lived outdoors, because escape—whether by river or through the jungle—would have been suicide.

Magdalena was the third of ten siblings born to Fátima Valencia and Narciso Mucutuy. Valencia was a village elder, and she instilled in her children a deep reverence for the forest. According to indigenous belief, everything in the Amazon, from the rivers to the plants to the animals, is imbued with a powerful spirit. Some spirits are good, others malevolent. The latter category includes duendes, which lurk in the jungle’s shadows, looking to lead children astray. “They take out your voice,” Valencia said, “and you cannot scream.” The Witoto claim to commune with jungle spirits through shamanic rituals and ceremonies.

In addition to spiritual knowledge, Valencia taught her children about the forest’s practical uses. It was a place of sustenance, good for growing certain crops and scavenging for wild fruit. Valencia showed Magdalena and her siblings which of the jungle’s offerings were for animals and which were safe for humans to eat.

As a girl, Magdalena enjoyed tending her community’s chagra, a traditional shared garden. She also liked playing soccer. In 2005, when she was still a teenager, Magdalena competed in a tournament in La Chorrera, 60 miles southwest of Araracuara. Afterward, she had coffee with Andrés Jacobombaire, a forest ranger who played on a rival team. Jacobombaire asked her out on a date; they spent an evening dancing to merengue and shared a first kiss.

According to Jacobombaire, it was “love at first sight.” When he proposed, Magdalena accepted. They soon had two children, Angie and John.

In 2010, Magdalena gave birth to their third child, Lesly, who inherited her mother’s long brown hair and brown eyes. As a kid, Lesly proved to be a natural athlete, and she was enthusiastic about fishing. Jacobombaire’s father, the indigenous chief in La Chorrera, taught her to hunt for monkeys in the jungle. Lesly spent hours studying the sounds of birds and learning the names of trees and fruit. “She knew how to defend herself in the jungle,” Jacobombaire said. “We prepared her from a very young age.”

For 12 years, Magdalena and Jacobombaire had a good relationship. They welcomed their fourth child, Soleiny, in 2014. Then, in June 2016, Jacobombaire fell at work. He thought he might have broken his back. His condition worsened, and for a time he lost the ability to speak and move. His injuries took a toll on the marriage. One day in early 2017, Magdalena packed her bags and returned home to live with her parents in Araracuara. She took Lesly and Soleiny with her. “They closed the door on me,” Jacobombaire said.

Araracuara was a place in flux. Cocaine cartels were operating in the jungle, and they sometimes forcibly recruited local children to participate in illicit drug production. A rebel group calling itself the Carolina Ramírez Front was believed to be using Araracuara as a transfer point for cocaine shipments bound for Brazil. The area also attracted wildcat miners eager to exploit the Amazon’s gold deposits.

Magdalena found work at an illegal mine, which is where she met Manuel Ranoque. A short, strong man, 26-year-old Ranoque didn’t have the best reputation: Some people considered him a bully who drank too much. But Magdalena fell for him, and they moved in together in the indigenous reserve of Puerto Sábalo, Ranoque’s home. Magdalena gave birth to Tien in 2018 and Cristin in 2022. Ranoque eventually became Puerto Sábalo’s governor.

Valencia didn’t approve of Magdalena’s new relationship. She had heard that Ranoque abused his previous wife. Valencia also claimed to have seen Ranoque kissing his ex in Bogotá.

In April 2023, Ranoque suddenly left Puerto Sábalo. He said that he had no choice, because the Carolina Ramírez Front had threatened his life. He made his way to Bogotá, where he contacted Magdalena and asked her and the children to join him. He said that they were in danger, too.

Magdalena’s parents told her not to follow Ranoque; they didn’t trust him. “Mile is lying,” Valencia insisted, using Ranoque’s nickname. Valencia could hear her daughter sobbing when she spoke to Ranoque on the phone.

Without telling her parents, Magdalena gathered her belongings and her children and moved into a little house next to the Araracuara air strip. Each day she begged Colombian soldiers to get her on a flight. Ranoque called them to ask for their help, too. The soldiers eventually agreed to secure the family seats aboard HK2803, with Hermán Mendoza as their escort. Ranoque would meet Magdalena and the children in San José del Guaviare, and together they would travel by road to Bogotá.

On May 1, after Magdalena settled on board the plane, she messaged Ranoque: “We are leaving now.” As she typed, she cradled baby Cristin in her lap.

Manuel Ranoque (AP Photo/Fernando Vergara)

After the crash, Magdalena’s parents were shocked to learn that their daughter and grandchildren had been on the flight. “I felt terrible, like I had a fever,” Valencia said. Jacobombaire was devastated by the news. He’d recently lost his father and couldn’t believe that God would take his daughters too. “It hurts my soul,” he said.

As for Ranoque, when he got word about the downed Cessna, he immediately packed his bags and headed to Cachiporro. “What I thought about most was getting my family back,” he said. He planned to go on foot into the jungle to find them, dead or alive.

Ranoque wasn’t alone—other family members and friends of the missing passengers were anxious to start looking for them. In Araracuara, Mendoza’s sister, Diana, and his cousin Natalya Rodríguez began rounding up volunteers for a search party. “When someone you love goes missing, you desperately want to find them,” Rodríguez said. “It’s the hope that keeps you going.” The first person they called was Henry Guerrero, 56, a Witoto leader with disheveled black hair and a graying mustache. He agreed to lead a team of five men.

Avianline organized two ground searches of its own. Shortly after setting off from Cachiporro into the jungle, the first group became lost. They lit a fire to alert aircraft to their position but eventually found their way back to civilization, of a sort, when they stumbled on the jungle home of a man called Dumar. He didn’t give his full name to the volunteers because he ran a clandestine cocaine operation. Dumar’s home, little more than a wooden hut with a corrugated metal roof, became something of an informal headquarters for civilian-led search teams.

Ranoque eventually arrived at Dumar’s, as did Edwin Paky, a 36-year-old expert in rainforest navigation and a representative of the Organization of Indigenous Peoples of the Colombian Amazon (OPIAC), who happened to be another cousin of Mendoza. Delio, Mendoza’s brother, came too, as did other volunteers from Araracuara. The new arrivals agreed to work together, and over a cigarette on the riverbank one day, Dumar told them information he’d been hesitant to share for fear of attracting unwanted attention to his business: On the morning of the crash, he had seen HK2083 flying over his hut, heading east at an altitude he estimated to be a few hundred feet.

The next day, as the first rays of sunlight illuminated the jungle, Ranoque, Paky, Guerrero, and other indigenous volunteers began swinging their machetes, hacking a path through the vegetation in the direction Dumar had seen the plane go.

A person, especially a child, walking away from such a crash would be a small miracle; surviving in the Amazon for more than a week without supplies was almost too much to hope for.

The best hope for finding the Cessna was using the coordinates broadcast by the ELT. But the first three sets were several miles apart. Colombian officials wondered if one of the passengers had survived the crash and detached the ELT from the Cessna, and was now moving on foot with it through the jungle. If so, they were likely doing so without food or water, in one of the most inhospitable places on earth.

The military decided to put together its own ground mission. Tasked to lead it was Pedro Sánchez, the head of Colombia’s Special Operations Joint Command (CCOES), a group of highly trained soldiers who undertake the country’s most dangerous and sensitive operations. Historically, the CCOES’s activities had mostly involved capturing—and in some cases executing—high-value terrorists, rebels, and narco-criminals. The commandoes weren’t in the habit of running rescue missions, but theirs was the only military unit capable of handling the Amazon’s terrain and its dangers.

Sánchez got to work drafting a search plan. The air force had spotted a plume of smoke near Cachiporro; assuming it came from a fire set by crash survivors, pilots dropped food rations nearby. Using this location as the starting point, Sánchez and his team mapped a search area of roughly four square miles, split into 100 quadrants. CCOES commandoes would comb each section by walking over it in a pattern of triangles and zigzags.

On the morning of May 6, three Black Hawk helicopters roared across the Cachiporro skyline. Inside were soldiers armed with M4 rifles, hand grenades, night-vision goggles, thermal optics, and satellite phones. Two groups, designated Dragon4 and Destructor1, rappelled into the jungle a couple of miles apart from each other in the northern section of the search area. They planned to work their way south, hoping to meet any survivors along the way. A third group of 11 commandoes—a team dubbed Ares3—were dispatched to the banks of the Apaporis River. They were accompanied by a search and rescue dog, a Belgian Malinois named Wilson.

Quadrant by quadrant, the CCOES soldiers did their painstaking work. Captain Ender Montiel, the leader of Dragon4, described the search area as “virgin jungle, a jungle that one way or another had not been stepped on by a human being.” The commandos could only work from 6 a.m. until dusk, because night in the Amazon meant total darkness—the kind where a person can take a few wrong steps and find himself lost, possibly forever. There was near constant rain, and monkeys in the canopy threw food at the soldiers.

The teams moved slowly, in single file, to make sure they covered their targeted areas. They divided each quadrant in two, searching one section in the morning and the other in the afternoon. Each man was required to walk as much as six miles per day. In case there were rebels holed up nearby, the soldiers used hand signals to communicate.

Destructor1 found the source of the smoke first spotted by the air force, but there was no one at the site. The food rations dropped from above lay on the ground untouched. Only later would the CCOES learn that the fire was the one set by the first Avianline search party before it found Dumar’s hut.

The error was a consequence of poor coordination between the military and civilian rescue efforts. As soon as the CCOES began its work, Valencia and other family members of the missing passengers pressured Sánchez to include indigenous searchers in his operation. “We as indigenous people know how to navigate the jungle and understand the unique spirits of each territory,” Valencia said. But Sánchez resisted; he was concerned that indigenous volunteers lacked military training and might not follow orders.  

Distrust ran in the other direction too, a result of recent history. Much of Colombia’s ongoing violence between state forces and armed groups has occurred in poor, rural areas, with indigenous people disproportionately affected—many have been forced to flee their homes, and some have been caught in the crossfire. “There has been a sense on behalf of these communities that the military was absolutely not there to protect them, in fact it was the opposite,” said Elizabeth Dickinson of the International Crisis Group. “They viewed them as a risk.” The military has also become infamous for killing innocent people and then declaring them enemy combatants, a practice known as false positives. A 2021 inquiry found that, between 2002 and 2008, Colombia’s armed forces committed more than 6,400 such killings.

So in the search for HK2803 the military largely kept its distance from indigenous searchers, and vice versa. Days passed. Then a week. After nine days and hundreds of miles of walking, the CCOES commandoes had grown weary. The only thing they’d found was an abandoned camp that once belonged to members of the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia, or FARC, the notorious rebel group.

Privately, Captain Montiel began to wonder whether HK2803 had sunk in the river. And even if it hadn’t, would it make any difference? A person, especially a child, walking away from such a crash would be a small miracle; surviving in the Amazon for more than a week without supplies was almost too much to hope for. “Every day we would ask ourselves a lot of questions,” Montiel said.

Still, the CCOES teams kept going. Early on the morning of May 15, Dragon4 was on its latest search when Sergeant Wilmar Miranda, Montiel’s deputy, spotted something pink amid the foliage. It was a baby bottle.

The soldiers took a photograph and sent it to Sánchez, who forwarded it to Valencia. By then the families of the people aboard HK2803 had gathered in Villavicencio, a city near the western edge of the Amazon. Valencia recognized the bottle right away. It belonged to Cristin.

The military searchers might have considered the bottle little more than crash debris except for one thing: There was cloudy water inside it—water that hadn’t come from a tap, but from the jungle. And because Cristin couldn’t walk yet, much less draw water from a stream, someone must have filled the bottle for her. That meant at least two people had survived the crash.

A few hours after finding the bottle, Miranda spotted some wild fruit with fresh bite marks on it, human ones. “It was happiness and joy to see that,” Miranda said. “There was life.” He looked around for signs of trails, spots where human feet might have left prints in the soil. But the forest’s unrelenting rain meant that everything was washed clean.

General Pedro Sánchez meets indigenous volunteers at the airport in San José del Guaviare. (AP Photo/Fernando Vergara)

Several miles south of where the CCOES was working, civilian rescuers weren’t having any luck. Given his skills as a navigator, Edwin Paky was the de facto leader of the indigenous volunteers, and he was growing anxious. He’d tripped over a branch and twisted his ankle one day, and now the group was running low on supplies. Ranoque and Delio, Mendoza’s brother, had gone to Cachiporro to restock but had yet to return. Paky thought that it might be time for everyone to turn back.

Then, on the afternoon of May 15, one of the searchers spotted something blue through a cluster of trees. At first the volunteers thought it was a house, but as they got closer they realized it was a plane. The plane.

HK2803 was in a vertical, nose-down position on the forest floor, indicating that Murcia had likely failed to slow down and pull up before crashing. The Cessna’s broken fuselage stuck out of the ground like a flagpole, and the propeller was snapped off. Paky saw that the canopy, some 150 feet above the wreckage, was somehow unbroken. No wonder aircraft had failed to spot the crash site.

As he approached the plane, Paky inhaled the pungent odor of decay. Looking inside he saw bodies, which the rainforest had made quick work of. Though her remains were mostly bones, he identified Magdalena by her long hair and body shape. He recognized Murcia because of his pilot’s jacket.

Paky didn’t see Mendoza, but he felt an ache in his stomach. “At first I thought nobody could have survived that crash,” Paky said. He jotted down the coordinates of the site and went in search of help. He soon encountered some of the CCOES soldiers. They radioed the discovery through to Sánchez, who ordered Montiel’s men in Dragon4 to the wreckage to identify the bodies. En route the following morning, Montiel’s team came across a crude shelter made of leaves cut with scissors, which were lying nearby on the ground. The leaves hadn’t withered; whoever cut them had done so recently.

At the crash site, Montiel and his men lifted HK2803 up with a winch and found three bodies: Mendoza was in the crushed nose of the plane, and he’d been decapitated on impact. Delio, who by then had returned to the jungle from the supply run to Cachiporro, put his head in his hands and fell to the forest floor. “My little brother!” he screamed.

The searchers noted that the cabin door was open; bags, clothes, and diapers were strewn about on the ground. Montiel, once skeptical that there would be any survivors, now realized that all the children had likely made it through the crash. “It was a real miracle,” he said. Still, the children had likely seen their mother dead or dying, then walked into the jungle to fend for themselves. Montiel thought of his own kids in that situation and choked back tears.

When Ranoque arrived at the scene he wept. “The only thing I thought was that that accident was my fault,” he said. “I just tried to imagine the degree of fear, anguish, and dread my children must have felt when the plane went into a nosedive.” He was also convinced that the children were alive. One of his own sisters had become lost in the jungle and was found safe a month later. In 2020, a mother and her three young children survived for 34 days after losing their way on a forest walk. Magdalena’s children knew better than most how to fend for themselves in that kind of terrain.

But the children could have been injured in the crash. If they had wounds, infection was a real threat. There were many others. When she got word that her grandchildren had likely survived the crash, Valencia thought of jaguars, snakes, duendes—all the things that could have harmed or killed the kids in the days since the plane went down. “That jungle doesn’t belong to us,” Valencia said.

From his position leading the CCOES teams, Sánchez estimated that if the children were alive, they had another three days, maybe four. It was time for a new search and rescue strategy, the likes of which Colombia had never seen.

The military called the new effort Operation Hope. More troops and dogs were brought to the search area. Aircraft flew low, dropping food, lighters, and thousands of leaflets printed with survival tips. Pilots scanned the landscape with binoculars, searching for signs of life.

Sánchez thought it was possible that the children had heard or even seen his soldiers, but were so scared of armed strangers that they hid. He suggested that someone in the family record a message telling them that it was safe to come out and to let his men help them. Valencia made the recording on her phone in her hotel room in Villavicencio. “I felt like crying,” she said, “but it strengthened my heart.” The military then attached a loudspeaker to a helicopter and flew over the jungle playing the message. “I beg you, stay calm,” Valencia’s voice boomed over the trees. “The army is looking for you.”

On May 17, two soldiers from Destructor1 spotted a group of men in the jungle. The soldiers readied their weapons. If these were rebels or drug smugglers, violence was likely. But the men were the indigenous searchers from Araracuara, Ranoque among them. He asked to use the soldiers’ satellite phone. Captain Juan Felipe Montoya, the leader of Destructor1, brought the group back to camp, where they were given food and water. Montoya was struck by Ranoque’s dedication. “I was thinking that as a father I would do the same thing,” Montoya said.

He was surprised, however, by the person Ranoque called on the satellite phone: a fortune-teller in Villavicencio. In Colombia, psychics sometimes appear on television and are popular on social media. They predict the outcomes of everything from presidential elections to sporting events. Ranoque, it turned out, had been consulting one about where to search.

The fortune-teller explained to Ranoque that if he headed west from his location for 270 yards, he would find a trail that would lead to the children. “I didn’t pay much attention to the fortune-teller’s guidance, fearing others might think we’re crazy,” said Sergeant Juan Carlos Rojas, Montoya’s deputy. Montoya was skeptical, too, but as Ranoque and the indigenous searchers headed out of the military camp, he decided it couldn’t hurt to send a few of his own men along. A short time later, the group returned with news: They had found footprints.

Montoya could hardly believe it, and he decided to continue working with the volunteers. Another development soon followed: Montiel’s Dragon4 team found prints, too—fresh ones. The children had to be close.

It wasn’t all good news on May 17, however. That evening Wilson, the Belgian Malinois accompanying the Ares3 soldiers, chewed through his collar and ran into the jungle. He was declared missing, and all units were asked to be on the lookout for him. Meanwhile, the Institute of Family Welfare, Colombia’s child-protection agency, released a statement on Twitter announcing that it had received information “confirming contact” with the children. Avianline tweeted that one of its pilots had been told that the children were alive and on a boat headed to safety. Most prominently, President Gustavo Petro tweeted that the children had been rescued—he described it as a “joy for the country.” None of this was true. It isn’t clear where the rumors began; perhaps it was inevitable that, amid the frantic, disjointed rescue efforts, misinformation would sprout somewhere.

Petro retracted his tweet later that day, and his flip-flop caught the global media’s attention. Journalists descended on Colombia to document the rescue mission in real time. “Clues suggest children survived Colombian jungle plane crash as officials race to find them,” declared CNN. “A Plane Crashed in the Amazon. Did Four Children Survive?” wrote The New York Times.

By then, Sánchez was frustrated. There were numerous signs that the children were alive, but his men still hadn’t found them. He went to a chapel to pray for help. The next day, May 19, he readied more troops and revised the required search patterns—each soldier would have to walk much farther each day.

Sánchez also found himself wondering if native customs were the missing ingredients after all. If he listened to indigenous guidance, however contrary to his training, perhaps the children would finally be located. “I thought there was different energy in the jungle that wasn’t allowing the children to be rescued,” he said.

Valencia was telling reporters that a duende must have captured the children, and Sánchez decided to consult an indigenous woman he knew about the matter. What might a person do about a duende? he asked. The woman told Sánchez to take four bottles of aguardiente, an alcoholic spirit, to the banks of the Apaporis at midnight and arrange them in the shape of a cross. This would attract the duende, who would get drunk and release the children. Sánchez dispatched the order to Montiel, who was baffled. “I’m a Catholic, so I don’t believe in those things,” he said. Still, Montiel did as he was told.

The ritual didn’t yield results, but it marked the start of closer collaboration between the military and indigenous searchers. On Montoya’s team, the soldiers initially slept with their guns by their sides at night, fearing Ranoque and the other civilians who had joined their camp might turn on them. But soon, according to Montoya’s deputy, Sergeant Rojas, the soldiers began to learn “a lot of things about the jungle” from their indigenous counterparts, who showed CCOES team members how to drink water from tree roots and build makeshift shelters from palm leaves. The volunteers’ ability to spot things out of place in the jungle—human tracks, say, or the remnants of food packaging—was remarkable. They chewed mambé, or crushed coca leaves, to sharpen their minds and give them energy, and some of the soldiers started using it, too.

On May 21, Sánchez received a visit from Giovani Yule, a nationally respected indigenous figure. The men hugged, and Yule told Sánchez that it was surely the first time in history that an indigenous leader had embraced a Colombian general. President Petro had requested Yule’s help in rounding up additional volunteers to help with the search, and Yule summoned members of various tribes: the Nukak, the Siona, the Nasa, the Witoto. Sánchez agreed to dispatch military aircraft to pick up the new volunteers and bring them to the search zone.

One of the new recruits was Eliecer Muñoz, a 49-year-old farmer and a member of the Indigenous Guard, a network of volunteers who protect tribal territory from violence and environmental destruction. In 2001, his brother and father had mysteriously vanished; he assumed that they’d been taken by an armed group and spent years searching for them. “I know what it is to look for your loved ones,” he said. Muñoz was eager to help but skeptical of collaborating with soldiers. “Right from the start, I made it clear to the government that no matter how many soldiers they sent, be it a thousand or even two thousand, they could never truly understand or see the jungle’s spirits,” he said.

Another volunteer was José Rubio, a 55-year-old shaman who went by El Tigre. Tall and handsome, with a steely demeanor, Rubio was often consulted when indigenous people were lost in the jungle. He had even helped find Ranoque’s sister when she went missing. He was terrified of weapons, though, and steered clear of the soldiers. It was a sentiment Muñoz understood. “Seeing a weapon made us wary. It reminded us of past experiences,” he said.

By May 24, a total of 92 indigenous volunteers had joined the 113 soldiers assigned to the search mission. Sánchez divided them into a dozen combined units. Extraordinarily, he ordered some of his soldiers to allow the volunteers to lead search efforts according to their beliefs. Military strategies for finding the children weren’t working; why not try spiritual ones?

Muñoz and Rubio were both placed with Montoya’s men in Destructor1. Muñoz immediately headed to the crash site and conducted a cleansing ritual, burning sweet grass, cedar, and sage, to assure Mother Earth that the volunteers were only there to claim what was rightfully theirs. He asked that the searchers be protected from dangerous animals. He also asked for better weather, to make the search easier. For the next three days there was no rain; the sky was a beautiful, rich blue.

Meanwhile, Rubio consumed mambé and ambil, a thick tobacco paste—he hoped doing so would help him connect with the jungle’s spirits. “I asked them if it was OK for me to search for the kids, explaining that they were my family,” he said. Rubio soon came to the same conclusion as Valencia: The children were being held captive by a duende.

Over the next few days, the men turned up new clues: diapers, a pair of running shoes, children’s footprints with what appeared to be a dog’s beside them, though there was no way of knowing if they had been made by Wilson, who was still missing, or by a wild animal. But no one found the children. On May 26, the day Cristin turned one, searchers sang “Happy Birthday” to her, wherever she was.

Indigenous volunteers wait to board a helicopter to join the search. (AP Photo/Fernando Vergara)

May turned to June. The children had been missing for a month. Many indigenous volunteers were injured or severely ill, and some gave up hope and abandoned the search. “The jungle seemed to turn against us,” said Henry Guerrero, who’d come from Araracuara.  

By now some of Sánchez’s commandoes had walked more than 1,000 miles, nearly the distance from Seattle to Los Angeles. They began trying new tactics: They marked search areas with bright yellow tape, hoping that the children would see it and stay put. They hung whistles from the tape so the children could make noise. They placed a loudspeaker in the jungle and again played the recording of Valencia’s voice.

Meanwhile, Sánchez tried to manage the expectations of the growing global audience, who were eager to learn of the children’s fate. “It’s not like finding a needle in a haystack,” he told the Associated Press. “It’s like finding a tiny flea in a huge rug that moves in unpredictable directions.”

On June 4, Montoya and his men were preparing for an eight-day break; other soldiers would take their place. Moments before they boarded a helicopter, they took a photo with the indigenous searchers, and Rubio asked the soldiers to secure him yage, a powerful psychoactive brew commonly known as ayahuasca. According to Witoto belief, consuming yage allows access to ancient wisdom that can cure ailments and solve complex problems. Rubio suspected that this was the only way the searchers could secure the children’s release from the duende holding them captive.

It was an unusual request. “To the Special Forces, this normally didn’t make sense,” Montoya said. “But in this mission everything was a possibility.” While on leave, Montoya sought out a woman in Araracuara, who agreed to prepare the brew. When she said that she had no way of getting it to the volunteers in the jungle, Natalya Rodríguez, the cousin of crash victim Hermán Mendoza, stepped in: She agreed to charter a plane and deliver it personally. “There’s joy in knowing that you were meant to do something to help those children,” Rodríguez said.

On June 7, Rubio prepared a small shelter where he could conduct a yage ceremony. Ranoque was selected to consume the drink—Rubio hoped his personal connection to the children might facilitate a conversation with the duende. Rubio blessed the space and, as midnight approached, quieted the men who had come to witness the ritual. Ranoque sipped some of the yage and lay down. The men watched him closely, but the effects never came. He stood up and said that it hadn’t worked.

The following day, only 16 indigenous volunteers remained with the search effort. Muñoz was among them, but he, like Rubio, was battling pneumonia. “I couldn’t eat,” he said. “I went without food for days.” He knew that he wouldn’t last much longer; he and the other volunteers would need to go home to recover.

As a last resort, Rubio himself drank yage in the early morning hours of June 9. He vomited, a common side effect when the brew works, and then hallucinated for around 45 minutes. In his visions, Rubio later explained, he met the children and the duende who was with them. Rubio told the duende that he was there to take the children, and it agreed to return them on the condition that a spell be cast on the searchers.

As Rubio sobered up, several of the indigenous volunteers reported feeling flu-like symptoms, including body aches, high temperatures, and a dry cough. Rubio suffered from convulsions. He was sure that the ritual had worked, and he told the remaining searchers that they would find the children that day.

As the sun rose, Muñoz set out with renewed conviction. He was joined by three other volunteers: Dairo Kumariteke, Edwin Manchola, and Nicolás Ordóñez. The CCOES soldiers they’d been working with were so exhausted that they didn’t join. The four men wandered for several hours, and around midday they stopped to talk and chew some mambé. Muñoz was anxious. “Faith still remains,” Ordóñez told him. “I’m sure we’ll find them.”

In the early afternoon, the group stumbled upon a red-footed tortoise, a sign of good fortune in Witoto culture. Folklore says that if a person finds this kind of tortoise while hunting, they’ll be granted a wish, provided that the creature is released afterward. Muñoz picked up the 20-inch-long tortoise. “Alright, turtle, you’re going to help me find the kids,” he said, laughing. “You either help me, or I’ll eat your liver!” Ordóñez added his own threat: “I’ll drink your blood!”

Muñoz strapped the tortoise to his back, and the men continued their search for a few hours, walking side by side up a steep hill. They considered turning back at dusk, but they trusted Rubio’s words: They would find the children today.

Ten minutes later they reached a clearing, and Kumariteke heard something nearby. He stopped and told the group to be still. Moments later he heard it again: the faint but unmistakable whimper of a baby.

Exactly 40 days after the children disappeared in the wilderness, the first person to set eyes on them was Ordóñez. Twenty-seven years old, with wavy brown hair and a muscular frame, Ordóñez had had a harrowing childhood experience of his own. He was recruited by FARC, making him one of thousands of minors the rebel group lured into its ranks as it fought the Colombian military. At 15, he entered a government-run program for the reintegration of child soldiers. Now he was working alongside the very armed forces he’d once sworn to fight, and he was soon to become a national hero.

When Ordóñez spied Lesly and Soleiny in the forest, he ran toward them, shouting that he and the other volunteers knew their family. When the men finally managed to corral the girls, one of them was clutching Cristin. Now the searchers just needed to account for Tien. “Where is your little brother?” Muñoz asked. Lesly pointed at a makeshift shelter nearby. Inside, five-year-old Tien was lying on the ground, too frail to stand. “My mom is dead,” he said with tears in his eyes.

The children were painfully thin and covered with scratches and insect bites. They sobbed and tried to pull away from the men. Muñoz attempted to calm them, speaking in Witoto. “We are family. We were sent by your father, your grandmother,” Ordóñez said. Finally, Lesly hugged him. He wrapped his arms around her tightly and told her not to be afraid. “I’m hungry,” Lesly said. “I’m very hungry.” Muñoz had some sausage and farina, a coarse cassava flour, in his backpack. But he feared that the children’s stomachs might be so sensitive from malnutrition that the food would make them ill, so he gave them water instead.

Night was falling quickly, and it would take a few hours to get back to camp. Muñoz set the tortoise free—it had done its job—and then each man put a child on his back and moved as quickly as he could through the jungle. Muñoz found a well of energy he didn’t know he had. “The excitement was so overwhelming that I completely forgot about everything else,” he said.

After an hour, he began to worry that the children wouldn’t be alive by the time they reached camp unless they ate something. He stopped and gave them food, praying that it wouldn’t hurt them. After another hour, the group reached their destination. “I’ve found the children!” Muñoz shouted to Yeison Bonilla, a military sergeant.

Bonilla’s troops hurried to wrap the children in thermal blankets and checked them over. They showed signs of severe exhaustion and dehydration. Bonilla didn’t think they would have survived another day on their own.

Some of the troops took photos of the children to send to their superiors, and a volunteer ran to find Ranoque. He rushed to the children and began to cry. “I felt like life was giving me a second chance to see my children alive,” he said. He worried that they were too fragile to touch, so he stood nearby as Rubio blew tobacco smoke over them, to cleanse away any lingering jungle spirits.

Bonilla grabbed his radio and repeated the code word for a successful operation, the one everyone had waited so long to hear: “Miracle, miracle, miracle.”

Military and indigenous rescuers pose for a photo with the children on the day they were found. (Colombia’s Armed Forces Press Office via AP)

Sánchez cried when he heard Bonilla’s words. “I felt incredibly happy and peaceful in my heart,” he said. He checked the coordinates of where the children were found—it was a little over three miles from the crash site. Rescue teams had almost certainly passed within yards of them, likely more than once.

By 8 p.m. on June 9, a Black Hawk helicopter was hovering over the children and their rescuers, its rotors spinning just feet above the treetops in the pouring rain. The vegetation was too dense to land, so the pilot, Julián Novoa, held the chopper steady for nearly an hour as soldiers rappelled down to the jungle floor and hoisted up the children and Ranoque one by one.

On board, doctors monitored the children as Novoa flew to the military base in San José del Guaviare, the town where the Cessna had been headed when it crashed. There the children were hooked up to IVs and then loaded onto a military plane bound for Bogotá. On the plane, Ranoque was finally able to give his children a hug. Sánchez was on board, too, and Ranoque asked him to be Cristin’s godfather. Sánchez accepted. When the plane landed, four ambulances—one for each child—whisked them to a hospital.

In a hastily convened press conference, President Petro lauded the children’s “total survival.” He credited the unlikely collaboration of the military and indigenous communities for the rescue. “Here a different path is shown for Colombia,” he wrote later on Twitter. “I believe that this is the true path of Peace.”

The day after their arrival in the capital, the children were allowed to receive visitors. When Sánchez came to the hospital that morning, they were all sleeping except Lesly. “You are brave,” he told her. He hugged her and thanked God for keeping the children safe. They were pale, and Lesly wasn’t talking, but at least they were alive.

Valencia said she was so overwhelmed when she visited the children in the hospital that she fainted. “Seeing them in that state, suffering, without eating, exhausted, malnourished, covered in lice and thorns—it broke my heart,” she said. When Andrés Jacobombaire, Lesly and Soleiny’s biological father, came to visit, his daughters didn’t recognize him—it was the first time they’d seen him since their parents split up six years prior. Jacobombaire explained who he was, and Lesly burst into tears. “I gave her a hug and started crying with her,” Jacobombaire said.

Media weren’t allowed to see or talk to the children, and as of this writing, that remains the case. But to family and friends interviewed for this story the children relayed the details of their survival.

Lesly salvaged a few other items that seemed useful: scissors, a first aid kit, diapers, a baby bottle. Then she led her siblings west, using the sun as their guide.

As they waited to board HK2083 on the morning of May 1, the children were nervous—they’d never flown before. But they were also happy. Lesly and Soleiny had told friends how excited they were to go to Bogotá, to begin a new life in a new place. Magdalena had told her children that rebels were looking for the family, but soon, she assured them, they’d all be safe.  

An hour later, as the engine sputtered and the plane began to go down, Magdalena told her crying children to hold on tight. When the Cessna hit the canopy, Lesly banged her head and lost consciousness. When she came to, she could hear Cristin screaming. She saw that Magdalena was still holding the baby. “Mama! Mama!” Lesly yelled over and over. Magdalena was motionless, and her eyes were rolled back in her head.

Disoriented, Lesly unbuckled her seat belt and wrenched Cristin from her mother’s arms. She used one of the baby’s diapers to stem the flow of blood coming from her head. The smell of fuel filled her nostrils. Debris was scattered everywhere. Lesly saw that Hermán Mendoza and Hernando Murcia were dead, but that Soleiny and Tien were unharmed.

With Cristin in her arms, Lesly led Soleiny and Tien out of the plane. A few yards away, she built a makeshift camp, stringing up a towel and a mosquito net to keep the constant rain and bugs at bay. Then the four children waited to be rescued. Tien kept asking when their mother would wake up. Lesly worried that her brother was too young to grasp the concept of death, so she said she didn’t know.

No one came for them, and Lesly knew it wouldn’t be long before predators arrived, attracted by the bodies. So she gathered a few of Magdalena’s clothes, some farina she found in Mendoza’s bag, and juice, soda, and candy from elsewhere on the plane. She salvaged a few other items that seemed useful: scissors, a first aid kit, diapers, a baby bottle. Then she led her siblings west, using the sun as their guide.

The fact that it was the wet season in Colombia was a blessing. As they walked, Lesly collected rainwater in an empty soda bottle. The moisture also meant that the jungle was in full bloom, with fruit heavy and ripe on the trees. The children consumed juan soco, similar to passion fruit, as well as seeds from a palm tree called milpeso. Lesly chewed the hard seeds in her mouth, then fed the pulp to Tien and Cristin. She also gave Cristin water mixed with the farina from the plane.

The children moved locations every few days and hid in tree trunks to get out of the punishing rain. Making progress was exhausting. Lesly and Soleiny took turns carrying Cristin. Once, a poisonous snake came close to Lesly, and she killed it with a stick. She was desperate to find a way out, to find help, but she never saw a trail and eventually became disoriented. Sánchez estimated that the children walked about 15 miles, but not in a single direction.

When they needed rest, Lesly sometimes made a shelter from branches bound together with hair ties. She used the scissors to cut the branches; after she lost the scissors, she used her teeth. At some point, the children found one of the emergency supply packages the military had air-dropped, but most of the time they were hungry. At night they were also cold. When her siblings cried in pain, Lesly could only forage for food or wrap them in a piece of dirty fabric. It was never enough.

Despite the hardship, Lesly said that she wasn’t scared—not until she heard her grandmother’s voice. It was loud, and she didn’t understand where it was coming from. After that she sometimes heard soldiers in the jungle. But she didn’t run to them—despite what her grandmother’s message said, Lesly didn’t trust men with guns. After all, her mother had warned her that rebels were threatening the family. When rescuers came near, the children ran away or hid, fearing that it was the Carolina Ramírez Front. If she was holding Cristin, Lesly put a hand over the baby’s mouth to muffle her cries.

The children kept moving for a few weeks, hoping to find help from locals who didn’t carry guns, but by the middle of May their strength had waned substantially. Then, as the children later told Valencia, a dog showed up. It stayed with them for several days before vanishing into the jungle again; the children felt like it was protecting them. In the hospital, using crayons, Lesly drew a picture of the dog sitting under a tree next to a river, waving its paw as a yellow bird flies overhead. Soleiny drew a picture of the dog, too. In both images the animal is black and brown, with pointy ears. To the military it looked like Wilson, the missing search and rescue dog. Given the story the children told, Wilson became a hero overnight, figuring prominently in news stories about the rescue.

It’s possible the children imagined the dog. Malnourishment and fatigue can play tricks on the mind. Lesly said that she started to lose her mental faculties and felt her memories evaporating. Eventually, exhaustion prevented them from traveling at all. They huddled in one of Lesly’s shelters and prepared to die. When Lesly heard footsteps near their last shelter, she was so depleted it was a struggle to breathe.

Still, Lesly was afraid and remained silent. Soleiny and Tien did, too. If Cristin hadn’t whimpered, the children might never have been found.

Few things in recent memory have brought Colombia’s population together like the success of Operation Hope. President Petro, who is a leftist, and Iván Duque, his conservative predecessor, both tweeted in celebration. Even the Carolina Ramírez Front issued a rare statement: “Like all Colombians, we rejoice that the four surviving children of the plane crash [in] May have been found alive.”

Petro invited military and indigenous members of the rescue operation to the presidential palace to receive awards for their exceptional service. Wilson was given a medal in absentia. The dog, who despite a monthlong search effort by the military was never found, was also immortalized in a mural at CCOES headquarters.

The government’s highest honor went to Sánchez for his leadership. When I met with him a few weeks after the ceremony, he said that the experience in the jungle taught him “that when we unite and work toward a common good, we can achieve anything.” He then paused to take a breath, fighting back tears. “Our differences should not divide us,” he said.

Captain Juan Felipe Montoya said much the same thing when I met with him at his home in Bogotá. On the same shelf where he keeps the plaque Petro presented to him is something he values even more: a bag of mambé from Eliecer Muñoz and other indigenous volunteers. “We figured out that we have a lot of things in common,” Montoya said.

Muñoz is now close friends with Sergeant Juan Carlos Rojas; they talk on the phone several times a week and meet for dinner when they’re both in Bogotá. “Our traditions, thoughts, experiences, religions may be different,” Rojas told me one day, “but in the end we united.”

Along with celebrations and new friendships came inevitable demands for accountability: Someone had to answer for the crash of HK2803. Indigenous leaders called on the Colombian government to take steps to improve air safety for people living in the Amazon. In July, Ranoque filed a suit against Avianline, seeking compensation for Magdalena’s death and the suffering of the children, plus a public apology. News reports suggested that after the plane crashed in 2021, it was repaired using off-brand parts to save money. According to Ranoque’s lawyer, it wasn’t fit to fly. Ranoque told me that if he wins money from the lawsuit, it will “go directly to my children.”

Fredy Ladino, Avianline’s CEO, has informed Ranoque’s attorney that he doesn’t intend to settle out of court, and he told me that the plane wasn’t to blame for the accident. Instead, Ladino said that Murcia, the pilot, should have aborted the trip when the plane’s propeller hit the ground during takeoff. “Totally irresponsible,” Ladino said of the decision to fly. He then told me that he couldn’t deal with the emotion and stress of the story anymore and ended our conversation.

The children arrive at a military base in Bogotá. (AP Photo/John Vizcaino)

Lesly, Soleiny, Tien, and Cristin were discharged from the hospital on July 14, a month and five days after the rescue. By then the world was clamoring to hear their story. Film producers and agents were flocking to Colombia seeking access. The government created a trust for the children to manage any money generated by the attention.

A version of this story scripted for Hollywood might end here. But reality isn’t always rosy. As the kids recovered from their ordeal, an ugly legal battle erupted over their future.

Ranoque announced that he wanted custody of Tien and Cristin, his biological children, but Magdalena’s parents insisted that all four kids should be placed in their care because Ranoque was dangerous. “My daughter died because of him,” Valencia told me. Narciso Mucutuy, Valencia’s husband, accused Ranoque of beating his family, telling reporters that the children sometimes fled into the jungle when the violence got particularly bad. Once, Mucutuy said, Lesly and her siblings hid for three days to protect themselves from Ranoque, who had “arrived home with alcohol breath and started hitting them without mercy.”

Journalists from Colombian television network Caracol traveled to Puerto Sábalo to investigate the allegations, and they discovered a very different story about the events leading up to the crash than the one Ranoque had told. Locals interviewed by Caracol said that in April, Ranoque had flown to Bogotá on business as Puerto Sábalo’s governor and blew his travel budget on alcohol and marijuana. According to William Castro, who has known Ranoque since they were children, Ranoque had also met up with his ex-wife in the capital and brought her back to the Amazon with him. Magdalena was devastated, and locals were appalled—by Ranoque’s behavior in Bogotá and by his treatment of his family.

One evening, Castro told me, Magdalena confronted Ranoque about the situation with his ex, and he responded by attacking her with a machete. “She had many scars from the fight,” Castro said. The community removed Ranoque from his position as governor, and Castro was elected in his place. Elders came up with a punishment for Ranoque’s misdeeds: He would consume a large amount of ambil, which in high doses can cause dizziness, nausea, and even death. If he survived, it was because the ambil had cleansed him of evil; if he died, it would be just punishment.

Rather than test his luck, Ranoque fled Puerto Sábalo in a speedboat, claiming that the Carolina Ramírez Front was after him. The rebel group eventually denied threatening Ranoque and insisted that he retract his claim, lest it disrupt peace negotiations with the government. Castro said the idea that Ranoque or his family were being targeted by rebels was “totally false.”

Over the summer, Colombian authorities investigated Ranoque and uncovered more information related to potential domestic violence. In August, Ranoque was arrested on suspicion of sexually abusing Lesly. Legal documents also detail the alleged machete attack, during which Magdalena reportedly had Cristin in her arms, as well as a previous incident when Ranoque threw Magdalena from the second floor of a building. She was pregnant with Cristin at the time, and the other three children witnessed her fall. On another occasion, Ranoque allegedly hit Soleiny with a jungle vine.

As of this writing, Ranoque remains incarcerated and is awaiting trial. He has threatened to sue Caracol for its reporting. In response to questions submitted to him for this story through his lawyer, Ranoque reiterated his version of events preceding his departure from Puerto Sábalo. “We had violent episodes,” Ranoque wrote, referring to himself and Magdalena, “but the stories of the machete and the spending of money on parties is not true.” He vehemently denied abusing Lesly. “A father who rapes his family does not do what I did,” he wrote. “I looked for my family because I love them; if I had something to hide, I would have let them rot in the jungle, but I was the first person who tried to look for them.”

Ranoque blames Valencia and Mucutuy for spreading rumors about him—he says they want to care for the children so they can capitalize on their fame. “I know that in the hands of the mother’s family my children would not be well,” he wrote.

As a result of the custody dispute, which also came to include Jacobombaire, who wants to take his two daughters home with him, the Institute of Family Welfare decided to keep the children in its care for the time being. A decision on their future is expected this spring. The institute is tight-lipped about its most famous wards, but according to family members and rescuers who’ve seen the children, they’re getting stronger every day. Cristin has started walking. Tien enjoys playing with Legos. Soleiny and Lesly are being homeschooled.

Still, their sense of loss and dislocation is palpable. Sánchez, his wife, and their son visited the children in December to bring them Christmas gifts. Afterward, Sánchez told me that the kids are in good hands but miss the Amazon. Accustomed to the humidity of the jungle, they complained that the weather in Bogotá was too cool. Lesly appeared to be depressed. “They would prefer to be eating farina and live in Araracuara,” Sánchez told me.

Valencia believes that after the crash, the duende was the children’s enemy, not the rainforest. In fact, when their mother died, nature filled the void she’d left behind, sustaining and protecting them until the moment they were set free by the spirit that had captured them. No matter who wins custody of the children, they will likely return to the Amazon. As it was for Magdalena, the jungle is forever their home.


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Two Thousand Miles From Home

Two Thousand Miles From Home

As Russia invaded Ukraine, three women from the same family became pregnant at the same time. Then the war tore them apart.

By Lily Hyde

The Atavist Magazine, No. 144


Lily Hyde is a writer and journalist based in Ukraine. She has written for The Guardian, Politico, the Times of London, and Foreign Policy. She is the author of Dream Land, a novel about Crimea.

Editor: Jonah Ogles
Art Director: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Olena Goncharova
Illustrator: Andriana Chunis

Published in October 2023.


Oy, bida! Oy, bida bida bida
A ya ba, a ya baba moloda

Lydia Kuznichenko is singing a Ukrainian folk song to the baby she’s holding in her arms. The tune is cheerful, although the words translate as something like: Oh, woe is me! And I’m a young woman. Lida, as she is known, is still young. She has grey-green eyes and dark golden hair, a face not meant for grief. She laughs and teases the baby: “Yes, yes, is your grandmother young?”

Sitting with Lida on the bed in her small brick house in the village of Ridkodub, Ukraine, I am wearing a heavy bulletproof vest that is supposed to protect me from the war raging outside. The baby, buttoned into a white onesie and a little blue jacket, has nothing to protect him except his grandmother’s arms. He is very small, not quite three months old.

Outside it’s a cold, pale winter’s day, December 30, 2022. We are in the Kharkiv region, about 20 miles west of the Russia-Ukraine border, and seven miles from the front line of the war between these two countries. A set of shelves in the room is piled with folded baby clothes and blankets—pink, blue, lemon yellow, white. On the veranda outside, tiny clothes and socks are pinned to a line, having been washed by hand in water heated on the old-fashioned stove. The house is a simple Ukrainian village home, warm and quiet except for the crackle of wood burning in the stove. When there’s a long, deafening roar outside that makes the windows tremble, or a series of more distant thumps, I’m the only one who flinches. The baby wriggles, then sleeps.

Both of them do—there’s another baby in the room, on the bed. The infants have a good many adopted uncles in Ridkodub, men who wear camouflage, army boots, and bulletproof vests. They think the babies are twins at first. “No!” Lida corrects them. “They are daughter and grandson. They are nephew and aunty.” Their names are Vitalina and David, and they have seen more woe in their few months on earth than many of us could imagine in a lifetime.

If Lida were to tell these babies a story instead of singing a song, how might she start? Perhaps like this: There were three women—Liuda, Lida, and Lera. They were from two generations of the same family; they lived a few miles from one another, and they all became pregnant just a few weeks apart. But a war came between them and divided them from one another. One of them traveled 2,000 miles to come home; another was lost.

No. That story gets too sad too quickly.

Perhaps she could start like this: There is the story about David and Goliath. Little David went out to fight the giant Goliath, who threatened to destroy David’s whole nation. And everyone thought that Goliath would win in three days, but little David would not be defeated.

Yes, that’s a better way to begin.

1.family

Lida’s family, the Slobodianyks, are a big, close clan. Arkady and Halyna moved from the Vinnytsia region, in central Ukraine, to Ridkodub, in the Kharkiv region, in 1986 with their four children. Lydia and her twin sister, Liudmyla, were still babies when the family relocated to work at the kolkhoz, the Soviet collective farm. Another daughter was born in nearby Dvorichna.

Lida and Liuda, as they were known, did everything together. Liuda was the eldest by five minutes. They studied at the local school and sang in the school choir. When they were 12, they started helping out at the farm, too, milking the cows. The twins performed together at local clubs and concerts, two girls with bright faces, harmonizing as they sang rich, plaintive Ukrainian folk songs. Lida had her first child—a son, Maksym—at 18. Liuda followed three months later with a daughter.

Maksym was a timid, serious baby. Lida bounced and tickled him, and sang nonsense songs to coax out his smile. The baby’s father left the family early on. Maksym grew up close to his mother; he had her green eyes and dark blond hair, but not her lively, outgoing temperament. A brother was born, then a sister as cheerful as Lida; Maksym remained the quiet, stubborn one.

By the mid-1990s, the kolkhozes had become private farms, but otherwise it felt as if not much had changed in their uneventful corner of Kharkiv region. Fields of wheat, maize, and bright sunflowers stretched to meet big skies, like picture postcards of the yellow and blue Ukrainian flag. The Oskil River wound past Dvorichna, between high, chalky banks overgrown with wildflowers and riddled with the burrows of steppe marmots.

As the children grew, the family gathered regularly; the farthest any of the five adult Slobodianyk siblings and their families had gone was to the regional capital, also called Kharkiv, where the oldest brother lived. Everyone else lived within a few dozen miles of one another in the district of Kupiansk. By the end of 2021, Arkady and Halyna had 15 grandchildren and great-grandchildren, and perhaps soon there would be another: Maksym had recently startled Lida by bringing home a girl he’d met at agricultural college. Her name was Valeria Perepelytsia, or Lera for short. A girlfriend! Not Lida’s shy Maksym—who, by the way, was only 17. The young couple had already started talking about having a baby.

2.occupation

Early on February 24, 2022, a sound like the sky tearing in half ripped through Lida’s dream.

It was dark, not even 4 a.m. The house in Ridkodub was quiet, her younger son, Dmytro, and daughter, Uliana, peacefully asleep. It was just a horrible dream, she decided. She dozed off, then woke again to another loud noise. Perhaps someone was setting off fireworks outside.

When she looked out her window, she saw that the sky in the northeast, toward the Russian border, was on fire. It was not a dream or fireworks. It was what the United States had been warning of, the thing no one in Ukraine wanted to believe could happen: Russia had invaded Ukraine.

Russian troops had amassed along the Ukrainian border for months, as Russian president Vladimir Putin declared that the neighboring country needed “denazifying” and “demilitarizing” while insisting that Ukraine was really part of Russia anyway. Despite U.S. and EU warnings, few Ukrainians thought there would be an attack beyond the eastern end of the country, where Russia had fomented a conflict in 2014 and effectively occupied parts of the Donetsk and Luhansk regions. Kharkiv bordered Luhansk and Donetsk—and Russia. But no one was prepared for Russian missiles falling on civilians and destroying infrastructure all over Ukraine. On the morning of February 24, Russian tanks not only crossed the border into Kharkiv region, but advanced on Kherson and Mariupol in the south and toward the capital of Kyiv to the north.

Lida phoned Maksym, who was staying with Lera and her family in Velykyi Vyselok, about 17 miles away, across the Oskil River. The call woke him up. “How can you sleep,” she yelled, “when the war has started?”

Maksym had been watching the news closely and messaging with his older cousin in the Ukrainian army. But his cousin had not prepared him for this. Lera, however, knew exactly what war was. She had experienced it before, eight years ago in Luhansk. She remembered how her mother hid her and her younger sister in the wardrobe during the bombings, and shared with them the only food they had: half a loaf of bread per day.

Now she and her mother scrambled to dress her baby brother, Artem, and gather a few essentials. Lera’s instinct was to run, although she didn’t know where to go. Grad rockets roared right over the house. Lera’s younger sister, Alyona, had been five when the Perepelytsias fled their home in Luhansk region. Now the buried trauma surfaced. She crouched like the little quail—perepilka—of their surname, put her hands over her head, and screamed.

No one went to work that day. People hid in basements and root cellars as planes and helicopters flew overhead and columns of tanks and artillery drove through Ridkodub and Dvorichna. They were unmarked, and Lida’s neighbors weren’t sure which country they belonged to; it was only on the very last column, which came through at about 4 p.m., that they saw a Russian flag. The few Ukrainian defenses near Dvorichna and Velykyi Vyselok were quickly overwhelmed.

On February 27, the mayor of Kupiansk, the administrative center of the district, surrendered. Soon Kherson fell in south Ukraine. The remaining Ukrainian forces near Lida’s home retreated to defend Kharkiv, which for the next three months was bombarded as Russian forces sought to take the city. But in the settlements near the border, after that first day when Russian troops passed through, everything went strangely quiet.

It was their home, it was Ukraine. Why should the Russians force them out?

On February 28, Vitaly Kucher was in his flat in Dvorichna with his wife and four-year-old daughter, wondering if he still had a job, or a country, when he got a call from a colleague: “You have ten pregnant women waiting outside your office. Why are you at home?”

Kucher, 34, had a homely, round face, and had worked as a gynecologist in Dvorichna for ten years. Before that his father was the local pediatrician. Everyone knew the Kuchers: Between them they’d ushered most of the district’s children into the world and through years of inoculations, illnesses, and accidents. As a child, Lida had been enchanted by Kucher senior during doctor visits; in 2014 and 2015, Kucher junior saw her through her pregnancy with her daughter, Uliana.

Now their hometowns were occupied by Russia. Yet people still lived and loved, pregnancies progressed, and babies were born. Kucher went back to work at Dvorichna’s hospital.

In Ridkodub, Dvorichna, and Velykyi Vyselok, people soon got used to the helicopters flying overhead, as regular as coffee in the morning. Russia was much closer than Kyiv, and the area had long had close relations, both official and unofficial, over the border. A Russian occupation authority installed itself in the Dvorichna House of Culture but seemed clueless when it came to running the appropriated territory. Kucher and his colleagues continued their work almost as usual, stamping hospital paperwork with the Ukrainian stamp.

“Do you know why it took us so long to react?” Kucher asked me when we met in a central Ukrainian village in summer 2023. “Because nothing happened! There was no shooting, no violence, no terrible bombing. Everything was quiet, except for us not knowing who we were anymore.”

Kucher had over 40 pregnant patients during the occupation. There were no buses anymore, so they came on foot or by bike. If several lived in the same village, they might join together to pay for gas and a driver.

One of Kucher’s first patients after the invasion was Lida’s twin sister, Liuda, newly pregnant. Kucher knew her well—she had four children already. Liuda and Lida always had babies at about the same time; they did everything together. Kucher wondered whether Lida might soon turn up outside his office.

Instead, in late March a very young woman was among the patients waiting to see him. She was small and slim, with clear pale skin, dark eyes, and dark hair in a topknot. Her partner was waiting outside. They were both 17. Her name was Valeria Perepelytsia, and the partner was Maksym Kuznichenko, Lida’s oldest son.

Kucher usually referred such youthful pregnancies to social services, to discuss whether to keep the child. Such services were no longer available, however; the director had fled to Poland. The girl in front of Kucher now was so young. But she was very certain that she and her partner wanted the baby, even if the timing was terrible. Kucher was impressed by Lera’s mature attitude. He filled out a medical card for her and scheduled monthly checkups.

When Lera realized that she was pregnant, she’d cried hysterically at first. How would two underage parents bring up a child in wartime, when everything was so uncertain? Maksym had tried to calm her down. In Velykyi Vyselok as in Ridkodub, the Russians had merely passed through and left checkpoints between settlements. Practically everyone in both villages remained, working at the commercial farms or on their own small plots, hoping it would all be over soon, that it wouldn’t affect their lives too much.

Lera’s mother, Svitlana, already displaced once from Luhansk, announced that she wasn’t going anywhere. The elder Slobodianyks in Ridkodub also refused to leave. Here they had a roof over their heads, a vegetable garden, geese and pigs and rabbits to look after. And it was their home, it was Ukraine. Why should the Russians force them out? Besides, they had no savings to cover the enormous travel costs, and the trip was dangerous. Kharkiv was being bombed; the Russians were just outside Kyiv. Where would they go?

Pregnant Liuda had an additional reason for staying. Her husband supported the Russian invasion, and he wasn’t the only one in the district. It was the first real disharmony there had ever been between Liuda and Lida.

In the end, only Lida’s younger sister Sveta left, using the last so-called green corridor to government-held territory, at the end of March. The rest of the family stayed put, Lida and the younger children in Ridkodub, Liuda near Kupiansk, and Maksym with Lera and her family in Velykyi Vyselok. Maksym got a job at the farm where Lera’s mother worked, looking after the calves, and complained about the smell of the animals that clung to his clothes.

Lera cycled to her appointments in Dvorichna, but a question remained: Where would she have the baby? Though home births are not permitted in Ukraine, she approached the only medic in Velykyi Vyselok, a nurse named Natasha Dikhman, and asked if she could help in case Lera had an emergency or couldn’t reach a hospital. Natasha worked part-time in a small first aid center, measuring blood pressure, dispensing basic medications, and patching up injuries. She had limited knowledge of midwifery, and told Lera and her mother not to expect qualified help from her.

Kucher usually sent complex cases to Kharkiv, including births to underage mothers. But the road to the city was closed now. Some of Kucher’s patients went to hospitals in the nearby Russian towns of Valuyki or Belgorod, where they met with incomprehension about what was happening across the border. Russian state media barely reported on the invasion. If Russians paid any attention at all, they likely thought that the so-called special military operation—Russia’s euphemism for the war—was a continuation of the military action in occupied Donetsk and Luhansk.

Kucher’s patients described to him their absurd interactions with doctors in Belgorod, who asked, “Why are you coming to us?”

“Well, we’re occupied.”

“Who by?”

“You!”

Lera refused to go to Russia, the country that had already destroyed her home once. She had relatives there, but she hardly spoke to them, since they supported the invasion. Kucher planned for her to go to the hospital in Kupiansk, which had a basement bomb shelter, when it was time to deliver her baby.

The region had become a grim, lawless gray zone where the only accepted narrative was the Russian one.

The veneer of normality in the district of Kupiansk soon wore thin. There was no public transit anymore. No working cash machines or banks. No postal service or deliveries. Shops and gas stations and pharmacies emptied. The only evacuation to free Ukrainian territory was organized by volunteers from Kharkiv, who drove daily to the dam across the river at Pechenihy, the only crossing point on the front line in the region. There they picked up refugees and distributed food and medicines. It was a risky undertaking. As medications at the Dvorichna hospital ran out, the pharmacist decided to cross into Ukrainian-held territory to obtain more. On the dam—now a no-man’s-land between the two sides—he came under fire, and returned concussed and empty-handed.

At the beginning of April, internet connectivity disappeared. Landlines and cell phones stopped working. For three weeks there was no electricity. Soon, obtaining anything at all became a struggle: gas, medicine, bread, news.

Russia started importing food and medication in summer, though they were sold at prices locals couldn’t afford. No one could get money or access salaries or pensions because the banks were all closed. War entrepreneurs cashed money from Ukrainian debit cards, taking a cut of up to 30 percent. In Velykyi Vyselok, people survived thanks to the farm, which paid its workers in produce—meat, milk and eggs, flour, sunflower oil. In many ways, it was a return to the grim 1990s after the USSR collapsed. Or—for the few who remembered—like the Stalinist 1930s or Nazi-occupied 1940s, when no one could say what they really thought for fear of informers and the punishment that might follow.

Those in Dvorichna and Ridkodub were fortunate: There were few instances of torture, murder, or disappearance typical of the Russian occupation even just a few miles away. Anyone who’d served in the Ukrainian army—particularly those fighting in occupied Luhansk and Donetsk since 2014—knew they were targets, and they left if they could or went into hiding. But anyone who stayed loyal to Ukraine risked harassment, arrest, or worse. When they encountered Russian soldiers shopping in the market in Dvorichna or Kupiansk, or buying piglets from the farmer in Ridkodub, they avoided eye contact.

They knew that by staying, adapting, surviving, they could run afoul of Ukraine’s new law criminalizing collaboration with the enemy. No law could encapsulate the experience of living under occupation or pin down the shifting, porous line between survival and collaboration. Distributing Russian humanitarian aid, for example, could violate the new law; for Russia that aid was one way to claim that the invasion had local support and to trap people in systems that would complicate the return of Ukrainian control. Businesses had to register with Russia or face confiscation; state workers were required to sign contracts with occupation authorities or lose their jobs and invite suspicion of their loyalties. Of course, Russian armed forces used local services and amenities, and the locals couldn’t refuse them.

The only widely available TV was Russian, which endlessly repeated that Russia’s special military operation was a liberation from Nazism and NATO’s tyranny. Accessing other news sources was risky and had to be done discreetly. In Velykyi Vyselok, the nurse Natasha Dikhman used a generator to tune in to Ukrainian satellite TV for half an hour after she milked her cows every evening. Between shifts, Maksym climbed a stack of hay bales where he sometimes got service with a Russian SIM card (the only way to get internet) to check Ukrainian news and exchange messages with his relatives in the army.

Everyone had their secrets, including Lida.

In mid-July, the family met in Ridkodub, in the yard of Lida’s house. Liuda had been to Dvorichna for her regular checkup, then came to visit her parents and twin sister, bringing her four children. Lera and Maksym were there, too. It was warm and quiet. At the end of the row of houses, a Russian flag atop the farm’s water tower was the only visible sign that all was not well. The children shouted and played. The adults drank tea at the wooden table under the fruit trees, the site of so many big, cheerful family parties, and discussed the babies that were coming.

Liuda had announced her pregnancy to the family first. When she told her twin, Lida said, “What are you thinking of? At a time like this?” She had asked the same thing of Maksym in April after she spotted a prescription for prenatal vitamins and noticed that he refused to let Lera lift anything.

Soon after, the family found out that their cousin Vladyslav and his wife, who lived outside Kupiansk, were also expecting. Liuda’s baby was due first, in about six weeks. Vladyslav’s was next, a week or so later. Lera and Maksym’s baby was due at the end of October.

“And what about you, Lida?” Liuda teased her twin sister. “There’s just you left for a full conclusion.”

Lida had been quieter than usual, listening to the others. She had split with Uliana’s father, although they were on good terms. That winter, she had started to see a local man called Vitaly. For several years, she’d had irregular periods and health problems. Even when she finally started to suspect something, it took time to find a test to confirm it. “Well, I have some news for you,” she said at last. Maksym saw that she had gone red. “I’m pregnant, too!”

Being pregnant gave them something to talk about, since they couldn’t talk about the occupation or how it had affected their family. Their oldest sister’s first son would soon graduate from a military academy in western Ukraine and go to fight for his country. A cousin was missing in action in Mariupol; another, Oleksandr, who had grown up with them in Ridkodub, was serving on the front line. They couldn’t discuss these things, because the other side of the war was represented in the family: Liuda.

Liuda’s husband, like Lera, was from the occupied part of the neighboring Luhansk region, where the current war had begun in 2014, when Russia fanned, financed, and fought a conflict against Ukraine in Donetsk and Luhansk. The region had become a grim, lawless gray zone where the only accepted narrative was the Russian one—that Ukraine had no right to exist, that it was run by nationalists and Nazis, or natsiky, who had waged war on the Russian speakers of the east. Lera’s uncle was still in occupied Luhansk, hiding from the military police, who rounded up men on the street and packed them off to fight for Russia against Ukraine. Some of the soldiers now in Dvorichna and Kupiansk were from occupied Donetsk and Luhansk.

The Slobodianyks were Ukrainian speakers, and loyal to their country. But Liuda’s husband insisted that the 2022 invasion was Ukraine’s and NATO’s fault, and Russia had come to liberate Ukraine and return it to its rightful place as part of Russia. Liuda had begun to repeat this narrative. Lida was being torn between her twin, who was closer to her than anyone in the world, and her own children. Maksym especially could barely stop himself from arguing with his aunt, or contain his rage at those like her husband who colluded with the Russian occupiers.

So that day in the garden, they talked around the silences, or filled them with babies. It was the last time they would all be together.

Since they lacked cellular connectivity and reliable transportation, Vitaly Kucher in Dvorichna became the three pregnant women’s only regular source of information about one another. They passed messages through the doctor, who tried to schedule Lida’s checkups to coincide with Liuda’s so the twins could meet. People clung to their routines, convincing themselves that everything was normal. Natasha Dikhman remembers a cool, rainy summer of tending the animals and digging in the garden; she herself grew the biggest potato she had ever seen, the size of a baby’s head.

But Maksym knew that things were going to change. At the end of August, perched atop the hay bales, he exchanged messages with his army cousin.

“Wait, we’ll be there soon,” his cousin wrote.

“How soon?”

“All in good time.” 

3.liberation

On September 1, Liuda gave birth to a baby girl in Kupiansk’s maternity hospital. The town was emptier than usual, almost peaceful. There was talk of a Ukrainian counteroffensive in the southern Kherson region, but in Kupiansk Russian soldiers strolled in the local parks eating ice cream. Schools and colleges reopened with a Russian curriculum. Staff who refused to teach it were interrogated or forced to leave. Parents were told they would receive a bonus if they sent their children to Russian school, a fine if they didn’t. Russia was tightening its grip on occupied areas, hammering home its message that the only future was Russian. On September 3, Lida and Liuda’s cousin’s baby was born in the same hospital.

In Ridkodub, Lida and her mother were canning their crop of tomatoes, essential stores to keep them going through winter now that neither were working or could access any money. Seven-year-old Uliana and 13-year-old Dmytro helped; there was no school for them to attend in Ridkodub. At the end of August, Russian military police, or perhaps state security officers from the FSB (the successor to the Soviet KGB), had come for Yuri Tyahilev, Lida’s parents’ neighbor, the village’s head teacher and a staunch Ukraine supporter. They put a bag over his head and held him with other prisoners in a tiny, sweltering, windowless cell for three days of brutal questioning: Who is loyal to Ukraine? Who fought for Ukraine Donetsk and Luhansk?

As soon as he was released, Tyahilev and his wife, who also taught at the school, left Ridkodub and drove to the Russian border, hoping to reach their daughters in Europe. Just hours after they fled, the Russians broke down their door.

Maksym and Lera had hoped to come to Ridkodub on September 7, and to stay until the baby arrived. Maksym was worried about his mother now that she was expecting a child, too. It was easier to travel from there to Dvorichna. Lera and Lida could pass the later months of their pregnancies together. And if his soldier cousin was right about what was coming, he wanted them to be together.

They didn’t go for the most banal of reasons: Maksym couldn’t get the day off work. How different their lives would have been if only they’d gone that day.

Maksym and Lera were on the other side, in Velykyi Vyselok. They were separated from Lida by the front line.

Talk of a southern offensive had been a ruse. On September 6, Ukraine launched a surprise attack on Russian forces in the Kharkiv region. It advanced at lightning speed. By September 7, Lida could hear the roar and thud of incoming and outgoing fire. The war that had somehow passed over them was getting closer by the hour.

Overnight on September 8, a missile hit the House of Culture in Dvorichna, where the Russians had their headquarters. The Russian forces were completely unprepared. “They started running,” Kucher said, “like rats from a sinking ship.”

On September 9, Ukrainian forces entered Kupiansk. In Ridkodub, the sound of battle was continuous. Lida couldn’t reach Liuda or their cousin Vladyslav in Kupiansk, as there was no cell service. Rumor was that the Ukrainians would be in Ridkodub in two or three days. Lida thought: How can we wait? Two or three days seemed like an eternity.

September 11 was a cool, overcast day, with apples falling from the trees. In the early afternoon, three soldiers passed the fence around Lida’s yard—quiet, shadowy figures wearing olive sweatshirts under bulletproof vests and carrying automatic rifles. They were some of the first soldiers Lida had seen in Ridkodub in more than six months of war. She and her neighbors ran toward them. Then Lida stopped. What if they were Russian? It was difficult to distinguish the uniforms; they weren’t close enough to see arm patches or the strips of tape the two armies used to announce themselves.

One neighbor, less cautious, shouted: “Slava Ukraini!” Glory to Ukraine!

Lida waited for gunshots. Instead the answer came: Heroyam slava! Glory to the heroes!

The stress of the past seven months released. Little Uliana screamed with hysterical laughter. They hugged the soldiers and begged for news. Later that day, Lida took a photograph of her children and two of the soldiers holding a Ukrainian flag. As soon as she had cell service, she would make this her profile photo on Viber, a messaging app popular in Eastern Europe. Then her family would know that Ridkodub was safely Ukrainian again. Her oldest son and his pregnant girlfriend just had to hang on a little longer.

The following day Lida went to her mother’s house, since there was sometimes service there. She could hear horrible shelling in the distance, and the sky was red over Dvorichna. But she’d been back in free Ukraine for 24 hours, and this was another good day—there was cell service, and a message from Maksym. He told her that they were OK and she should hold on, that Ukrainian soldiers were on their way.

Then she saw that the message had been sent five days before. She tried to call Maksym, but there was no answer.

After those first delirious days, things began to go wrong. The first Ukrainian soldiers entered Dvorichna on September 10, Kucher recalls, although officially the town was liberated on September 11, like Ridkodub. “We were overjoyed. We thought: We’ve been liberated, everything is great!” he remembered. “And then on the twelfth was the first really heavy shelling, and the first victims.”

On September 12, Lera, his youngest patient, was supposed to come for an ultrasound. She hadn’t shown—it was the first appointment she missed in six months—but Kucher was in no position to think about his patients. That afternoon, the town shaking under Russian fire, he and his wife and daughter ran to the basement of their building. They didn’t emerge for three days. There was no water, no electricity, no phone or internet, and no letup in the bombardment.

Late on September 15, the family ventured back to their flat. The next day, Kucher managed to evacuate his wife and daughter with a group of volunteers. The following day he left, too.

The counteroffensive had come to a halt, just past Dvorichna, over the Oskil River. (Later, Ukrainian forces retreated to the west bank of the river itself.) Maksym and Lera were on the other side, in Velykyi Vyselok. They were separated from Lida by the front line.

In the following weeks and months, the shelling of Dvorichna continued, and it reached Ridkodub as well. The town lost gas, electricity, and water within days of the Ukrainian advance, but cell service was restored, and the Ukrainian army brought a Starlink terminal with them, which they shared with locals for internet access. In late September, Lida found out that Liuda and her children were alive; after three days sheltering in the basement with the newborn, they had fled to Russia with Liuda’s husband. But there was no contact with Maksym and Lera.

On October 4, as Lida was coming home from her parents’ house, cradling her pregnant belly under her coat, her younger sister, Sveta, called from Slovakia, where she had been living as a refugee since April. “Are you alright, Lida? Have they been in touch with you?”

Lida knew that she meant Maksym and Lera. As far as Lida was aware, they were still where they’d always been, less than 19 miles away, across the Oskil River. But that might as well have been an ocean away.

Lida’s younger sister began telling a confusing story about a girl in Kharkiv who’d posted on social media about people in Velykyi Vyselok. As Sveta spoke, she began to cry.

“What is it? What’s the matter?” Lida asked, panicked. “Sveta, tell me, what’s wrong?”

“Lera had her baby,” she heard through the sobs. “She had a boy, on the first of October. And they’re fine.”

Lida was a grandmother. It was this thought that stayed with her as she, her parents, and her two younger children hid in the root cellar with the neighbor’s family—15 people in a 40-square-foot space, squeezed in among the potatoes and the jars of pickled tomatoes and cucumbers. They distracted themselves from the missiles falling outside by trying to guess the baby’s name. Ilya, perhaps—Lera liked the name. Maksym wanted Oleh, after his cousin in the army.

They wrapped themselves in coats and hats against the damp chill of the cellar. The Ukrainian soldiers billeted in the village gave them flashlights, lamps, and bread, and charged their phones for them. One day, as Lida was cooking on the outdoor stove, a cluster bomb landed in the yard, scattering lethal fragments through the marigolds. By some miracle, Lida was only bruised as she scrambled for shelter.

In early October, the school where Yuri Tyahilev taught two generations of the Slobodianyk family was destroyed. Later that month, Lida got a text message from an unknown Russian number. The message said it was from Maksym. She called the number; a female voice answered. “It’s Lera.”

“Our Lera?”

“Your Lera!”

The baby, she said, was called David. The name had come to them out of nowhere, but she and Maksym knew right away that it was right. The baby was fine—they were all fine. They were at home, using a neighbor’s phone. How was Lida’s pregnancy? The younger children? They hoped to be reunited soon. And that was all.

There was no Kucher anymore in Dvorichna to pass reassuring messages between them. The hospital had been destroyed—a direct strike on Kucher’s office on the third floor. The grade school was gone, the kindergarten, the market. Everything. For Lida’s next medical checkup, at 34 weeks, the Ukrainian military organized an ambulance to take her to the hospital in Kharkiv.

Kucher, via phone from a village in central Ukraine, didn’t want Lida to take any risks. The doctors in Kharkiv kept her in the hospital for a week, although she was eager to get back home to her children. And her eldest was always on her mind. Lida had unlimited access to Ukrainian news now, and it was full of horrors and war crimes uncovered in towns liberated from Russian control. Torture sites in Kupiansk. Mass graves in Izium.

Lida remembered the times she’d put her head down and stared at the ground to avoid looking at Russian soldiers on the street in Dvorichna and Kupiansk. Maksym, that timid child she’d teased into smiling, was alone with them now. Was he managing to control his temper, his disappointment and hope? She didn’t know if he could keep his head down.

One day in late October, she was at the hospital when she got another call from an unknown number. It wasn’t Lera this time. The caller asked if Lera and Maksym had arrived yet.

“Arrived where?” Lida said. As far as she knew, they were still in Velykyi Vyselok, under occupation with her grandson.

“In Ridkodub,” the voice said. “They left Vyselok two days ago to come to you. Did they get through?”

“But I’m not in Ridkodub,” Lida said. The woman at the other end of the call explained that Lera, Maksym, and the baby had left by foot on October 25. Lida couldn’t speak. Her parents were at home; they would have called if Maksym and Lera had shown up there. How could they have crossed the front line? It was impossible. “They’re not there!” she managed.

The doctors threatened to tether Lida to her bed with an IV if she didn’t calm down. She roamed the hospital’s corridors, heavy with the baby she carried, a devastated mess of tears. Somewhere between their two villages—amid the familiar fields of sunflowers, the Oskil winding along its chalky banks, the green water and yellow lilies all burning now—her son and his family had vanished. They didn’t answer their phones. She couldn’t find them. One, two, three days. Nothing.

4.TERROR

In mid-September, Maksym found cell service at the haystacks in Velykyi Vyselok. He saw his mother’s Viber photo, his brother and sister in Ridkodub holding a Ukrainian flag with two Ukrainian soldiers. He could feel the smile on his sister’s face spreading across his own.

For months the Russians and their supporters in Kupiansk and Dvorichna, along with the Russian propaganda that was all they watched or listened to, had insisted that his home was and would always be Russian. Now Maksym took a screenshot of the photo as proof that they were wrong. His family were already liberated. Just like his cousin had told him: “We’ll be there soon.” Lera’s baby, due at the end of October, would be born in free Ukraine.

He waited and waited for the Ukrainians to reach Velykyi Vyselok. But they did not come.

Instead, after Kupiansk was liberated on September 10, the village filled with Russian soldiers and matériel retreating from the Ukrainian advance. Dvorichna was completely cut off, and travel and communication were incredibly risky. One afternoon Natasha Dikhman’s husband, Valery, climbed a tree near their house in Velykyi Vyselok where he could get service and talked briefly with their oldest son, who was in Poland and worried sick about them. Seconds later shells whistled past, from Russian soldiers on the highway who probably suspected he was photographing their positions. Valery tumbled out of the tree. He and Natasha were a quiet couple in their forties, devoted to their two sons; before the war, Natasha had called their eldest daily. But now Valery told his wife: “I’m not going anywhere again to make a call.”

On October 1, Natasha was at home making a breakfast of korzh—a flatbread—on the woodstove when Maksym knocked on the door.

“Aunty Natasha, I don’t know what to do,” he said. “I think Lera has gone into labor.”

Lera had been in intense pain since the previous afternoon. By evening it was clear that she was in labor, but her water wouldn’t break. At 2 a.m., and again a few hours later, Maksym ran to the Russian soldiers, begging them to take his girlfriend to a hospital in a nearby occupied town. The soldiers sent him away with a bottle of hand sanitizer. Driving anywhere, they said, especially at night, was too dangerous.

So Maksym had come to Natasha. He was trembling. He was just a boy, the same age as Natasha’s youngest. He didn’t know what to do or whom to turn to. “I understand, but how can I help?” Natasha asked him. “I haven’t got anything on hand, and there’s nowhere to take her.”

Natasha’s small first aid center, undisturbed all summer, had been looted in September by Russian soldiers who were now living in the kindergarten across the street, amid a jumble of cots for small children and boxes of bullets and military rations. Natasha still had some of the medication soldiers had brought to the village and given her to distribute. But it was for blood pressure and upset stomach; nothing that would help with a birth. She ran with Maksym through the village to the home that Lera’s mother, Svitlana, shared with her partner.

The overheated little house smelled of woodsmoke and fish and sweat and desperation. Lera was on the veranda, swaying, pressing her forehead against the cool windowpane and swearing a blue streak. “That’s right,” Natasha told her. She felt like cursing herself, at the whole awful situation. “Curse, swear, breathe. Just keep breathing.”

The house shook from the shelling outside. Lera had clung to the hope that she would give birth in a hospital, not at home. Now she asked whatever higher power was listening to please let it happen here in the house. She didn’t want to deliver her baby while hiding in the cold, dark root cellar.

There was no electricity in the house. Natasha asked if Svitlana had any supplies. “There was absolutely nothing!” Natasha recalled later. “No diapers, no disinfectant, no iodine—nothing.” A neighbor offered to tear up a clean sheet to wrap the baby in. Natasha told her to bring whatever she could find. She brought a bottle of vodka. Even as she recalled the scene to me months later, Natasha’s laugh was tinged with hysteria. “On one hand, it’s funny. On the other hand, it’s terrifying. The grad rockets are flying overhead, the house is just wood and clay, and everything is shaking. And there I am with Lera.”

Her greatest fear wasn’t even the rockets but complications from the birth. What if Lera hemorrhaged? Or the baby was breech? She wasn’t trained for this. She had no experience. She could have the death of a child on her hands, or of a mother who was little more than a child herself.

The hours wore on. Maksym waited in the kitchen or on the bench outside, smoking cigarette after cigarette, ignoring the bone-shaking roar of artillery; all he could hear were his girlfriend’s screams.

Almost 24 hours after Lera’s labor started, the baby was born. It was a boy, and the thick, dark umbilical cord was twisted several times around his neck. Natasha unwound it quickly. She cleared mucus from his mouth and nostrils, and slapped the tiny, crumpled bottom. At last he breathed and cried.

She weighed the child using a spring scale, used for tomatoes and cabbages at the market. She had to guess his height. She wrote in a notebook: “I, Natalia Dikhman, attended the birth of a child born to Valeria Mykolaivna Perepelytsia. Male, 2.300 kg, 37 cm. 3.40 pm, 1.10.22.”

On Natasha’s way home, still shaken, a woman stopped her to ask: “Is the baby born yet?” After Maksym’s desperate attempts to get help, the whole village knew about the drama. Natasha had no great expectations of herself. She had been brought up to think that in a war, the heroes are the soldiers at the front. But now it sank in that without training, without equipment, while the war rained death around them, she had helped to bring a new life into the world. Perhaps, in her own little way, she was a hero herself.

She looked in on the new family twice after that. Baby David was tiny, of course—he was almost a month premature. The second time, Lera thought he was developing jaundice. But Natasha could do nothing for him.

After ten days, Lera weighed the baby. He had put on just 200 grams, less than half a pound. She was feeding him with her own milk—thank goodness it had come through, because they had no baby formula—and she felt weak and tired all the time. But that was surely from stress.

She weighed David again two weeks later. The scales showed exactly the same as last time: 2.5 kilograms, roughly 5.5 pounds. He was such a quiet little thing, rarely crying, his eyes dark and colorless under almost transparent lids. He fed frequently, but for short periods, and he barely filled the cloth diapers she put on him. Lera’s step-aunt told her that she looked very pale; perhaps she had anemia. Eat buckwheat, the aunt advised. But no one in the village had buckwheat.

The couple grew increasingly desperate. It wasn’t just that mother and child were ailing. It wasn’t just the artillery fire; it was possible to get used to the rockets and mortars that could kill them. There was another constant fear now—that Maksym would be detained or called up to fight. On September 26 he had turned 18, old enough to go to war for the wrong side.

Before Ukraine’s counteroffensive, the few enemy soldiers they saw in Velykyi Vyselok had left the villagers alone. Now those soldiers were jumpy and paranoid about partisans and spotters who might call in a strike from Ukrainian forces, which were less than seven miles away. The soldiers moved tanks into the village, so that the residents became human shields. At first these men were Russian contract soldiers, or Ukrainians from occupied Donetsk or Luhansk who’d been mobilized. They could be brutal or sympathetic; they might shoot a civilian out of a tree or weep and tell him they hated the war and wanted to go home. But soon, in a pattern repeated everywhere in occupied territory, these rank-and-file soldiers were supplemented by Russian military police and FSB.

Up to ten FSB officers came to Velykyi Vyselok. They looked entirely different, even from a distance. Their uniforms were smart, and they carried new, high-precision rifles. Their job was to cleanse the population of potential dissenters and troublemakers.

Lera was sure that some people in the village were reporting to the FSB about Maksym. She had learned to guard her words long ago, when Russian-backed fighters had taken over her hometown in Luhansk region. But her boyfriend hadn’t been as cautious. Most of Velykyi Vyselok knew that he had a Ukrainian flag at home and a cousin serving in the army with whom he’d exchanged messages.

As Maksym watched Lera grow paler, their baby more listless by the day, he swallowed his fear and pride and went to the soldiers in the kindergarten, pleading with them to transport his family to Ukrainian-held territory. The front line was the railway that ran roughly parallel to the east bank of the Oskil, near a village called Tavilzhanka. All they had to do was reach the railway.

The soldiers refused. Even if Maksym made it to the other side, they said, the nationalists and natsiky would shoot him as a saboteur; why should they risk their lives for that? They made what might have been jokes or might have been threats: When are you going to volunteer to fight, Max?

In late September, the FSB detained one of Lera’s neighbors. They took him to a bombed-out airfield nearby and shot at him until he confessed to fighting in the Ukrainian army. On October 25, as Maksym was leaving work at midday, a villager named Kolya called him over. The man told him quietly that the FSB were looking for him. “You’ve got one, maybe two days,” Kolya said.

Maksym sat down, head in hands, for about ten minutes. Trying to think. To decide. Then he hurried home and told Lera they were leaving. They would walk to the railway, six miles west. If they left right now, they could reach Ukrainian-held territory before nightfall, and they would be safe.

Lera ran quickly to her mother’s house to say goodbye. Svitlana wasn’t there. Lera hugged her sister and kissed her brother. She was leaving 13-year-old Alyona in charge, the sister she was so close to that people said they were like two drops of water. She had carried little Artem on her hip and changed his diapers; his first word wasn’t “mommy” but “Lera.” Now she had her own baby to look after. She tore herself away and ran from the house in tears because her mother wasn’t there to say goodbye.

They took only the stroller and a few clothes for David in a little case, along with their passports, the notebook where Natasha had recorded David’s birth, and Lera’s medical card from Kucher. For themselves they had only the clothes, light coats, and trainers they were wearing.

Two teenagers with a baby stroller. Russian soldiers driving past on the exposed, shell-cratered road stopped and offered them a lift. Maksym thought he’d be arrested every time they passed. It was soon clear that they’d never make it before nightfall, so they accepted a ride to the next village. When the soldiers left, Maksym smashed his phone, with its incriminating messages and photos.

Tavilzhanka was a long, sprawling settlement along the road that led to the river and Dvorichna on the other side. It was quiet as they resumed walking, the only sounds those of a rural autumn day: crows cawing, the wind rustling crisp leaves. As they neared the front line, many of the houses were just piles of rubble, blackened roof beams, a sickly smell of damp plaster and burning. The ground had been broken and dug up, either deliberately, to hinder the advancing Ukrainians, or by missile attacks. The train station was in ruins. The Ukrainians were just a few hundred yards away, on the other side of the railway.

There was a burst of gunfire. “Take David in your arms,” Lera told Maksym. “If something happens, get down on the ground with him.” Maksym was bigger and could offer more protection. More gunfire. Then mortars. The Ukrainians were shooting back. A mortar landed so close, there was no warning whistle. They were showered with earth. Deafened. They had only a couple hundred feet to go, but they couldn’t make it through the barrage. They had to turn back.

The soldiers in Tavilzhanka were Ukrainians from occupied Luhansk and Donetsk. Before the Russian army recruited its own prisoners for the same expendable purpose, it usually put these men in the most dangerous forward positions. The soldiers offered to take the family to Russia. They told Maksym that he and Lera wouldn’t make it through the fighting, that they should wait a week or two if they wanted to get to Dvorichna—by then the Russians would have taken it back from the Ukrainians.

That night the family stayed with a colleague of Maksym’s from the farm. Maksym was determined to try again the next day. The morning dawned cold and raining. Drones flew overhead, scouting for a strike, their characteristic whir sending soldiers diving for cover. Then machine gun and mortar fire. Heavy rain turned the blasted ground to thick mud.

David was so fragile; he had no warm clothes or blankets. Maksym’s colleague told them to stop being stupid, to go with the soldiers offering to take them to Russia, where David could get the medical help he needed. By then, Lera was exhausted. Her head ached. Over the past two days, David barely stirred; he was too weak to even cry. The soldiers from Luhansk were at least familiar. In another life, one the war hadn’t wrecked, they were miners and mechanics like her uncle and father. She and Maksym gave in.

A pair of soldiers sped them to another village, where they transferred to an Ural army truck. Countless civilians were crowded in the back, dirty and disheveled. The truck lurched over muddy, bumpy fields, avoiding the roads. Tears ran down Lera’s face; she was too tired to wipe them away. I’ll come back, she silently promised someone or something, maybe the poor battered earth under the heavy wheels. Please wait for me, I’ll come back soon.

The truck crossed at a bombed-out checkpoint staffed with Russian soldiers. As they passed through, Lera realized that she’d lost her phone. They were in Russia, and they were truly alone.

5.ENEMY TERRITORY

After that terrible call on October 27, Lida finally pulled herself together. Back in her hospital bed in Kharkiv, her own eight-month baby wriggling and kicking inside her, she called siblings, neighbors, friends, volunteers, soldiers—anyone who might help find her son and his new family. She forced the image of their dead bodies out of her mind. She told herself: Wherever they are in the world, a mother will find her children.

There was no green corridor to Ukraine-controlled territory from Velykyi Vyselok. The only place they could go was Russia. And Lida knew someone there who might help: Liuda. She and her family, including their baby daughter, Darya, had fled to the Russian city of Belgorod during the battle to liberate Kupiansk. Soon Lida got a call from someone in Tavilzhanka saying that Maksym and Lera had gone to the same city. Though the relationship was more strained than ever, blood was blood. Lida asked Liuda to search the refugee camps and hospitals for her son and grandson.

During the fierce fighting of Ukraine’s Kharkiv counteroffensive, thousands of civilians fled or were transported by Russian forces over the border, forcing the Russians in Belgorod to confront the war next door. But any deviation from the official narrative about the special military operation was ruthlessly stifled. Russian state-controlled media—and there was no longer any other kind—told them that the Ukrainians arriving in their city were Russian-speaking victims of the Nazi government in Kyiv, to be rescued and absorbed into Russian history and culture. Of course, Russian prisons were also full of Ukrainian civilians who had been searched, questioned, and detained at checkpoints or border crossings—a process called filtration—and said to be terrorists or Nazis themselves.

In principle, the Russian government offered help to those it did not detain. It housed them in summer camps, at sports facilities, and in tent encampments. It provided transport to more permanent arrangements in far-flung provinces. Russian volunteers who supported the invasion provided food, clothing, medical supplies—the same items they’d donated to the Russian army.

That assistance was a staple of Russian propaganda TV. It showed grateful Ukrainians on mattresses in sports arenas or hostel rooms, thanking Russia for saving them. Russia also facilitated the adoption of Ukrainian minors into Russian families. Maria Lvova-Belova, the presidential commissioner for children’s rights, adopted a teenager from Mariupol and was a frequent presence on TV, hugging and kissing Ukrainian youth, applauding as they were issued Russian passports. She told the cameras that some of these children insisted on speaking Ukrainian or singing the Ukrainian national anthem, but they soon learned to love Russia.

Liuda was staying with her children in a flat in Belgorod while her husband looked for a permanent place for them to settle. She called one hospital looking for Maksym, Lera, and David. Nothing. She called a second and was told that a month-old baby with a very young mother had been admitted. David had been found.

When she visited the hospital, David was in a dimly lit ward. The staff wouldn’t let her inside. She took a photograph on her phone, through the blinds covering the glass. She sent it to Lida, who was lying in a hospital just over the border. But Lera wasn’t with her child. The staff told Liuda that the mother wanted to abandon the baby.

The worst thing, they soon realized, was that they couldn’t get their child back.

In fact, when Maksym and Lera arrived in Belgorod, just before midnight on October 26, Lera had asked to be taken immediately to a hospital, because she was afraid that David might be dying. She was taken to a facility several miles outside the city. Once they were there, medical staff whisked David away. He was so malnourished that he was transferred to a pediatric hospital back in Belgorod, where they intended to keep him until his weight stabilized. But Lera couldn’t go with him—she was too weak, and COVID-19 protocols prevented parents from accompanying their children anyway.

The doctor wanted to admit Lera too—he said that she had anemia. But her treatment would be administered at the hospital outside town, far from David. Afraid to be so far from her child, Lera refused.

While David was in the hospital, Lera and Maksym stayed in a refugee camp several miles from Belgorod. Neat rows of white-and-blue tents stood on an expanse of tarmac. Inside, 12 or more people had been assigned beds. The place was clean and orderly enough, but the tent walls flapped in the autumn wind, the heaters did little to push back the cold, and there was no privacy, no place to speak freely about what came next, about returning home to Ukraine.

The camp was full of refugees from Kupiansk, Dvorichna, and even Ridkodub. But for Maksym and Lera, there was little comfort in finding themselves among neighbors. Instead, they were confounded that so many Ukrainians seemed to believe that Russia really had saved them, although they weren’t always clear about what from. The refugees repeated rumors Maksym heard in Velykyi Vyselok—that Ukrainian forces had executed all the teachers in the district, or that there were in fact no Ukrainian soldiers to speak of, that they were all foreign mercenaries and NATO forces.

When Maksym challenged these accounts, he was told that he’d been brainwashed, or that he was a natsik himself. In the end, any argument was reduced to a single axiom: Because they’d come to Russia voluntarily, Ukraine would always consider them traitors, so they couldn’t go back. Perhaps the refugees repeated the Russian line to protect themselves from the horror of filtration. But in Maksym’s eyes, they were traitors indeed.

There was constant pressure to speak Russian and to remain in the country. In Russia they would be given an apartment, they would receive benefits, everything would be free. While Maksym and Lera were at the camp, four buses left, taking large groups of Ukrainians to distant Russian cities. Each time, the couple were urged to leave, too. You can’t stay in this camp forever, they were told, and you can’t go back to Ukraine, where there is only shooting and shelling, extremism and fascism. And why would you go to Europe? No one wants you there; no one speaks your language. Stay in Russia.

Yet it was obvious that Russia’s so-called welcome of Ukrainians fell short. The food in the camp was awful, a soup made with random ingredients: macaroni, cabbage, crab sticks, pickled cucumbers. It was hard to obtain a mobile number, book a train ticket or a hotel room, or even buy cigarettes. Everything required an ID, and most people only had Ukrainian documents.

But the worst thing, they soon realized, was that they couldn’t get their child back.

When Lera returned to the doctor, he gave her tea and chocolate. He said he understood that she didn’t want to be separated from Maksym and David, but she was perilously weak. If she didn’t agree to treatment for anemia, the pediatric hospital staff would never let her even hold her baby, because she might faint and drop him. He promised that she could join David once she’d had treatment.

Lera consented to a blood transfusion. Her hemoglobin levels were dangerously low, and the transfusion may have saved her life. It came from the local blood bank. From now on, Lida—if they ever made it home again to merry, irreverent Lida—would be able to tease her: Lera is our little Rashistka.

After two days, despite the doctor’s promise, Lera still wasn’t transferred to the hospital where David was being treated. So she checked herself out and went to retrieve him. First, the doctors said they couldn’t give David to her because he was still recovering. Then they said they couldn’t return him without documents proving that he was her child. It was only when doctors wanted to x-ray David’s eye that they allowed Lera to briefly see her son.

When they’d first arrived in Russia, David was less than a month old, and Maksym and Lera only recently turned 18. Russia’s abduction of Ukrainian children was not yet headline news: The International Criminal Court wouldn’t issue a warrant for Putin and Lvova-Belova for the crime of illegally transferring children from Ukraine to Russia until March 2023.

Maksym and Lera had made a courageous, desperate effort to stay in Ukraine, but they had been forced to go to Russia instead. Now everything around them conspired to keep them there—and away from their child. Lera had the medical card from Kucher at the hospital in Dvorichna, which confirmed that she had been pregnant up to August. The only other document they had connected with David was the notebook page on which Natasha Dikhman had recorded his birth.

Armed with this evidence, they did the only thing they could: They went to the Belgorod registry office and applied for a Russian birth certificate. They left with a greenish slip of paper, emblazoned with the two-headed eagle of the Russian state, declaring that David Maksimovich Kuznechenko had been born on October 1, 2022, in Velykyi Vyselok, Kupiansk district, Kharkiv, Ukraine. The surname was spelled wrong, with an e instead of an i following the first n, but they didn’t care. What mattered was that it said he was born in Ukraine. The registrar had offered to add a stamp confirming that the baby was a Russian citizen. Lera and Maksym declined.

Document in hand, Lera could finally collect David from the hospital. He had grown at last, and was stronger, with a soft feathering of hair. His eyes focused on Lera, although one of them—the one x-rayed by doctors—seemed darker than the other.

They were reunited at last, and now they wanted to go home. While the young couple trekked between hospitals and the tent camp, Maksym’s mother had contacted them with good news: She had found a volunteer who promised to help them return to Ukraine. Lida’s cousin Vladyslav, whose wife had given birth just two days after Liuda in Kupiansk, had also fled to Russia in September. From there the family traveled to Poland. Vladyslav gave Lida contact information for a woman who helped them. He said she was part of an underground network of Russian volunteers who supported Ukraine.

Though Maksym was wary when he first met her outside the tent camp in Belgorod, the volunteer quickly proved her worth. When Lera and Maksym left the hospital with David, she booked them a hotel room; the family paid for it with money Lera’s uncle in Luhansk had wired. Lera sent Lida a picture of the three of them cuddling together for the first time in over three weeks. At last they were together, they had some privacy, and someone was helping them.

The volunteers did all the things the Russian state did not. They bought bus and rail tickets to destinations chosen by the refugees, and shuttled them to stations and borders. They booked hotel rooms, or placed Ukrainians in the houses of sympathetic families. They bought phones and SIM cards, and contacted anxious relatives left behind in Ukraine.

Most of these volunteers opposed the war and saw helping Ukrainian refugees as their moral duty—and the only way to express their opposition. They were constantly concerned about security, both their own and that of their work. Those who would talk to me at all described a huge international relief operation working entirely underground—an army of ants, as it was described. One person would pick up refugees, provide for their immediate needs, and pass them on to the next person, like links in a chain. “I try not to know anything more than is necessary,” a volunteer told me. “After the war, maybe then we’ll get to talk about what we did.”

On November 20, Lera and Maksym began their long trip home, handed from volunteer to volunteer, trusting in strangers’ goodwill with every step. First they went to Voronezh, in southwestern Russia, where they spent two days. There they met other Ukrainians, not just from their corner of Kharkiv region but from all over. They were bewildered and angry, or apathetic and secretive, heading for Europe. Here, finally, not everyone said they’d been saved by Russia.

Next came a 20-hour bus ride to the border with Belarus, Russia’s partner in the war. They waited hours there, while phones and documents were checked and bags searched. Then they were in Minsk, and after that Brest. Another night in a strange bed, sheltered by people whose names they barely knew. At 9 a.m. on November 24 the last transfer came—yet another volunteer, in a car. By now the other refugees had peeled away, bound for Europe. The roads were almost empty. They shared the ride with just one elderly Ukrainian couple.

The car dropped them off at Mokrany-Domanove, the only checkpoint still open between Ukraine and Belarus. The Belarusian border guards didn’t want to let them through. They pointed out that Maksym’s Ukrainian ID had expired, that David had a Russian birth certificate. They asked what they thought about the war and pored over their phones. “What’s this yellow and blue?” they asked Maksym suspiciously. It was a Ukrainian banking app; Maksym told them he had installed it to access his student stipend.

The guards made a final attempt to detain them. To Lera they said, “Don’t you know that if you cross that border, your boyfriend will be handed his army boots right away?” They towered over her slight five-foot frame.

“Then this baby will have a soldier for a father,” she said.

Finally, about midday, after nine months of living under Russian control, they were allowed through. They had several bags, filled with baby clothes and diapers from the volunteers, and winter clothes for themselves. Maksym didn’t even notice their weight. He flew across the no-man’s-land to the Ukrainian checkpoint. It was if an unbearable burden had fallen from his shoulders.

Returning Ukrainian refugees, or those freed from occupation, often speak about the relief of familiar words, foods, road signs. The yellow-and-blue flag, signs of safety and civilization. Coca-Cola they can afford, no rubles required. A change in the air itself: freedom to breathe. But this wasn’t the end of Maksym and Lera’s journey. They still had to cross most of Ukraine, from west to east.

First they needed to speak with Ukrainian security services—Ukraine performs filtration, too. (They advised Lera to use David’s Russian birth certificate for toilet paper.) Assisted by Ukrainian volunteers this time, they boarded a bus for Kovel. Then there was a 20-hour bus ride through Kyiv en route to Kharkiv. David slept for most of the journey, until the last leg, when he started to howl. Soon he would meet Lida for the first time, though not his other grandmother; Svitlana was still in occupied territory. But in the crowded Kyiv bus station, Lera’s father, Mykola, was waiting.

Mykola and Svitlana had split up when the family still lived in Luhansk. Lera and her father often talked, but they hadn’t seen each other in years, since before she escaped the shelling in 2014. Now, at the end of this journey, fleeing that same small fire that had grown into a conflagration, they met again. It was just a brief rest stop at a bus station, just long enough for Mykola to kiss his grandson, shake Maksym’s hand, and slip some money into his daughter’s pocket after hugging her tightly. They both cried. 

There was so much death and grief in Ukraine now. But to balance it, here were two babies, alive, together.

Lida waited for well over an hour at the bus station in Kharkiv. The bus, delayed by snowy roads, finally arrived around 9 p.m. She saw Lera first, wearing a bright red coat and hat. Then Maksym. Then baby David, a well-wrapped bundle in Lera’s arms.

She had rehearsed this moment, worried that she would embarrass herself by collapsing into tears. Instead, trembling with excitement, she found herself shouting, “Slava Ukraini!”

Her voice rang through the cold, poorly lit bus terminal, full of weary or anxious travelers, all with their own war stories. Some people smiled, some laughed. Many replied: “Heroyam slava!”

Lida’s baby was born in Kharkiv on November 28, a rosy, healthy girl with a fluff of fair hair. Lida called her Vitalina, after her father, Vitaly, and because the name means “alive.”

One of Lida’s cousins had been missing in Mariupol for nine months now. Her beloved twin was in Russia, with the niece she’d never seen. Lera’s mother and siblings were still trapped by the occupation. There was so much death and grief in Ukraine now. But to balance it, here were two babies, alive, together.

Four days later, Lida returned to Ridkodub. There was no water, no electricity, no gas. The roads, broken by shelling and tanks, were lethal with black ice. A week after she arrived, a shell landed just down the road, destroying the kindergarten. But Maksym and Lera and David had made it back. They’d traced a loop of nearly 2,000 miles to return to the place they’d started. Together, they were home.

6.HOME

Returning to Ridkodub was not quite the happy ending everyone wanted. It was difficult for Lera to continue her studies with no electricity or transportation; she had to take her midterm exams using the army’s Starlink terminal. And the village was no place for a baby who needed medical care. David’s right eye had a cataract, and he required surgery.

Lera and Maksym left with Yevhen Sanin, a volunteer from Kharkiv who’d taken me to meet the family at the end of 2022. He drove them back to Kharkiv on January 4, along the same route we’d traveled, at top speed to avoid the missiles still battering the ruins of Dvorichna and Kupiansk.

They moved into a hostel for displaced people and waited for the surgery. But without papers David couldn’t be admitted, and they couldn’t register for state support either. So, at the end of January, Lera, Maksym, and David met a lawyer at the Zhovtnevyi district court in Kharkiv. In some ways, this was the last stage of David’s journey. His parents had brought him this far to ensure he would grow up in Ukraine. Now they had to make him Ukrainian by law.

Births in occupied territories can be registered in Ukraine only after a court hearing. Ironically, it had been easier getting a Russian birth certificate than to make David a Ukrainian citizen. Lera still only had Kucher’s medical card and the handwritten notebook page. Their lawyer told them not to mention the Russian birth certificate. Ukraine had broken off all diplomatic relations with its neighbor, and after almost a year of bloody invasion, with at least 7,000 civilians and tens of thousands of soldiers dead, that document could only count against them.

They considered asking Kucher, who had acted as a witness for several other of his patients in similar predicaments. But then they learned that Natasha Dikhman, who had helped Lera during the birth, was now in Kharkiv.

After Maksym and Lera had left at the end of October, life in Velykyi Vyselok became unendurable. The shelling was intense. Russian soldiers went from house to house, looting or demanding alcohol, when they weren’t firing at Ukrainian forces on the west bank of the Oskil. Natasha and Vitaly Dikhman managed to evacuate their youngest son in November. At the end of December they too left, driving over the frozen fields in their battered car, the windows smashed by a shell that had landed on their garage. They exited through Russia and returned to Ukraine though a rarely open checkpoint between the warring countries, arriving in Kharkiv on December 25. There were ruined buildings everywhere, but compared with Velykyi Vyselok it was peaceful.

Natasha had heard that the young family made it back to Ukraine. In January, Lera called asking for help one more time. That’s how humble, unassuming Natasha, who never wanted anything but a quiet life, found herself recounting the whole awful story in a courtroom. She held David while Lera and Maksym spoke to the judge. The baby was still tiny, but his grip on her finger was strong. He looked just like Maksym. The hearing took about an hour. The next day, his parents received a Ukrainian birth certificate for David Maksymovych Kuznichenko.

Home, even a home right on the front line, was familiar, a place of love, somewhere he could be in charge of his own life again.

After the court hearing, the couple stayed in Kharkiv. Maksym got a job at a supermarket. He earned just enough to rent a flat on the top floor of an apartment building; it was discounted because anyone living there would be at greater risk from ongoing, if less frequent, air raids.

Lera’s mother, Svitlana, called occasionally from Velykyi Vyselok, but she said less with each call—just a brief “we’re alright.” In the spring, Mykola, Lera’s father, enlisted in the Ukrainian army.

At the end of January, Lida moved with Vitalina and Uliana away from Ridkodub, to live near her older sister in a village a little farther from the front line. Her parents stayed behind with Dmytro. Liuda remained in Russia with Darya, the third of a trio of wartime babies. The twins spoke only when Liuda’s husband wasn’t around.

Sometimes their older sister told Lida to stop weeping for her twin. “You don’t understand,” Lida would say. “You’re both my family, but Liuda and I are one. We’re two, but we’re one. If she is in pain, I am in pain. If I hurt, she hurts.” The war couldn’t sever that connection. “It’s very hard without her,” Lida told me.

I met Maksym again in Kharkiv in May, at the funeral of Yevhen Sanin. He was killed by shelling in Dvorichna while attempting to evacuate another family to safety. The cemetery, where hundreds of Ukrainian flags fluttered above military graves less than 14 months old, was already familiar to Maksym. In January, he had attended the burial of Oleksandr, Lida’s cousin, killed while fighting near Lyman in Donetsk region.

All this time, Maksym had been mulling over a decision. When I first met him, after he’d returned to Ridkodub in December, I asked why they hadn’t gone to Europe when they had the chance. There, David would be safe. Why go to such extraordinarily difficult lengths to return to Ukraine, with all its uncertainty and danger?

Because, they said simply, it was home. Patriotism is a difficult, discredited word for many Europeans. For Ukrainians it has become a way of life—a deep, fundamental expression of survival, like the words Slava Ukraini. Maksym had spent months in occupied Ukrainian territory, a scared boy, a teenage father at the mercy of Russian soldiers who threatened to make him fight for an invading force. He’d been powerless to protect anyone. Home, even a home right on the front line, was familiar, a place of love, somewhere he could be in charge of his own life again.

Lera graduated from college in July and celebrated her 19th birthday. She had filled out, and there was color in her cheeks and on her newly manicured nails. Max had a tattoo of the Ukrainian state symbol, the tryzub or trident. He had grown, too. He was impatient with his job and with the young people—kids his own age—who came into the supermarket or hung out in cafés and bars to enjoy themselves, forgetting about the war. His male colleagues were worried about being drafted to fight in Ukraine’s slow, bloody second counteroffensive.

On August 9, Ukraine announced obligatory evacuation of all settlements in the Kupiansk district, including Ridkodub. The armed forces didn’t want civilians caught up in the push to take back the remaining territory—that was how Maksym explained the evacuation to me.

In late September, Lida turned 38, and Maksym 19. On October 1, David would be one year old. “After that I’m going to swear my oath,” Maksym told me the last time we met, on a hot, late-summer day in their rented flat overlooking Kharkiv’s botanical gardens and the student hostels that housed hundreds of displaced people from Kupiansk, Ridkodub, and Dvorichna. “I’m going to sign up for the army myself, so that it’s my choice, not someone else’s.” He was going to protect his family, even if that meant he had to leave them.

David was holding on to his father’s knees, gazing up into his face. Maksym tossed him into the air to make him smile, then gave him his phone to hold. “Go on, take it to mommy,” he said. The little naked child clutched the huge phone and toddled unsteadily to Lera. He had just learned to walk.

In memory of Yevhen Sanin, 1976–2023.


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The Romance Scammer on My Sofa

The Romance Scammer on My Sofa

A writer’s quest to find the con artist in Nigeria who duped his mother.

By Carlos Barragán

The Atavist Magazine, No. 140


Carlos Barragán is a Spanish writer. He previously reported for El Confidencial and is currently enrolled in the MFA program at Columbia University, thanks to a Fundación “la Caixa” scholarship.


Editor: Seyward Darby
Art Director: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Kyla Jones
Illustrator: Kumé Pather

Published in June 2023.


Natasha Bridges blanketed the Facebook inboxes of men she didn’t know with the simplest of greetings:

hi 
hi
hi                            

Plenty of the men never replied to Natasha, but it was striking how many did. Even more striking was how quickly some of them seemed to fall for her.

Can you love an older man?

So wrote a guy named James* after just a few hours of messaging. James said that he was 56 and rode a Harley. After sending Natasha pictures of his bike, James told her, unprompted, how he would perform oral sex on her.

*Unless otherwise noted, the names of scam victims have been changed.

Other men were starry-eyed. They told Natasha that she was gorgeous, that they liked her smile and her flirtatious way of chatting, that they couldn’t wait to meet her one day. There were also sentimental types, like Brett:

I don’t know if I’ll ever be truly happy again. I think the only dream I have is if I had a special woman with me.

You know I mentioned it a couple of days ago, but I haven’t seen you for a very long time. Would you please send me a few of your pictures? I would really like to see you.

Natasha had yet to respond to Brett’s latest lovelorn message. Her silence would have been callous if she was who she said she was. But given the truth—that Natasha Bridges didn’t exist—the real cruelty might have been replying.

The person sending messages to Brett, James, and dozens of other American men was named Richard, but he preferred to be called Biggy. He was 28 and from Nigeria. The photos he used in the Facebook account where he posed as Natasha—a 32-year-old single mother from Wisconsin, interested in economic development and cryptocurrency—were pilfered from the social media of a real woman named Jennifer. He’d used other accounts to pretend to be a gym instructor, and a lonely American soldier deployed abroad.

I knew all this because Biggy was sitting on a green sofa in my hotel room in Lagos, playing the video game Pro Evolution Soccer 17 as I read the private messages he’d sent to unsuspecting foreigners on his iPhone 6. When I asked why he was ghosting Brett, Biggy, scoring yet another goal for Australia in the Asian Cup final against Japan, shrugged. “Bro, that’s what I’ve been trying to tell you. Being a Yahoo boy is very stressful,” he said without taking his eyes off the game. “Do you find it easy to make someone fall in love with you? The hustle is the same as real life, with just one difference: You have to pretend to be another person.”

In Nigeria, Yahoo boys are online fraudsters. Their nickname comes from the email service Yahoo, which became popular in Nigeria in the 2000s, and they are descendants of the infamous 419 scammers, who, first with letters, and later in emails, promised to help strangers get rich for a nominal advance fee. (The number is a reference to a section of the Nigerian criminal code pertaining to fraud.) Biggy is a particular kind of Yahoo boy: a romance scammer who pretends to be other people online to seduce foreigners into trusting him and giving him money.

Biggy’s game is all about intimacy. He invests time in building what seems like a real relationship with his victims. He flatters them, tells them jokes, asks intimate questions. “The most important thing about being a Yahoo boy is keeping the conversation alive,” Biggy told me. “Dating is all about patience. It takes a long time before a client starts trusting you.”

Yahoo boys, I was learning, love euphemisms.

Biggy estimated that over his ten years—and counting—as a romance scammer, he’d lined his pockets with $30,000 from people he conned. People yearning for love. People like my mother.

Hi Silvia, how are you? This is Brian. We contacted each other on Tinder, I hope you are having a wonderful day. It would be a delight for me if we can get to know more about each other, and to answer your question, I was once married, but now I am single after the divorce.

I would hope to hear from you soon
warm hugs
Brian Adkins
Carmel, NY 10512
bcmakins@aol.com 

By a lot of metrics, my mother, Silvia, is a successful woman. She opened her own dental clinic in Spain before she was 30, and over the next two decades she served some 10,000 patients. She got married and gave birth to three boys, of which I am the youngest. But her divorce from my father in 2003, when she was 44, was turbulent and costly. After the split, my brothers and I lived mostly with our mom in various rented apartments around Madrid. For a long time, her only asset was an old Citroën C1. The bulk of her income was spent on food, education, and yearly vacations with us. “Books and travel—no matter what, there’s always going to be money for that in my house,” she’d say. 

One day in December 2015, my mother’s face seemed brighter than usual. She told us at Sunday lunch that she’d met someone. They’d connected on Tinder, an app I’d encouraged her to use. The man was named Brian, and he was a handsome, divorced 52-year-old American soldier. My mother said that her feelings were real, and that Brian’s were, too.

At first my brothers and I didn’t pay any of this much attention. Jaime and Miguel were in their twenties, launching their careers. I was 19 at the time, the only one of us still living at home, but I was busy studying at university. My mother’s blossoming romance was background noise. But when she later told us that Brian was on a mission in Syria, Miguel, a pilot in the Spanish air force, scoffed. “Come on, you really believe that? It’s sketchy,” he said.

After that my mother shared updates about her new love more sparingly, and mostly with me. She showed me some of the long, passionate emails she and Brian exchanged. She’d studied English in high school but still used Google Translate to better express herself. Brian’s messages had grammatical mistakes, too—but I thought, so what?

“Sometimes I tell Brian, ‘You’re going too fast!’ ” my mother confided in me. She’d said as much in one of her messages to him:

I hope there will be many ends of the year together. I think the love of a couple is a way to go, I am sure our beginning is good and I like it. We are in different situation, my life is very comfortable, yours not, I am surrounded of friends and family, you are only with other men fed up like you. And so…and so. I understand you hang on me and in some way I appreciate it very much, but in other way it makes me feel a little bit anxious about responsibility of being what you expect of me. 

Whatever doubts she had, the joy she felt overrode them. One day she came home with two rings: one for her, and one for Brian. “He’s coming to Spain,” she said, grinning. He’d told her that he wanted to leave the military and be with her.

Now my brothers and I were officially concerned. We asked her if she’d ever had a video call with Brian; when she said no, we told her we found it shady that, apart from a few photos, she’d never even seen the guy who claimed to love her. We argued, and my mom, hurt that her sons weren’t supporting her, shut herself in her bedroom. “I’m going to talk to my boyfriend,” she said before closing the door.

In early January 2016, about five weeks after my mother first connected with Brian, Jaime sent me a message while I was studying at the library for a microeconomics exam. “Carlos, we have to do something,” he wrote. I could feel his anxiety behind the typing bubble on my phone’s screen. “This guy told mum he’s going to ship her some bars of solid gold he’d found in a terrorist stash,” Jaime continued. “It’s a scam.”

I put down my books and did something I should have done already: I googled “scams” and “American soldiers.” Dozens of results appeared. There were warnings about con artists, many of them in sub-Saharan Africa, professing love to victims at warp speed, then asking for money. Some of these scammers told their targets that they could deliver gold, gems, or cash that would help them build a new life together, if only the target helped cover shipping costs or customs fees. Once the victims delivered the money, the scammers either continued stringing them along or simply vanished.

My mom was almost certainly being targeted. It didn’t make sense—I was sure that she was smarter than the people you hear about on the news who lose their life savings to online con artists. Still, realizing that it might take hard evidence to convince her that Brian wasn’t who he said he was, I did some research and found an app that could trace an email sender’s location through their IP address. Now I just needed to get into my mom’s Gmail account to pinpoint where Brian really was.

In the meantime, Jaime confronted her with the truth over lunch. My mother was confused: Brian had sent her so many emails and photos, confessed his feelings and fears. How could he not be real? “Mom, I’m sorry, but there will be no gold,” Jaime told her. “End of story.”

When I arrived home that evening, my mom was alone and upset. She wasn’t ready to let go of the fantasy—she clung to a glimmer of hope that it was all a misunderstanding. We sat on our sofa and, using the app I’d downloaded, I showed her how it could determine where an email came from. As an example, I used an email from my father, who lived in China. “You see? He sent me this email from Shanghai,” I told her. My mom then gave me her Gmail password, and I used the app to locate Brian. His emails weren’t coming from Syria; they were coming from Lagos.

My mother’s face went as white as the wall behind her. When she spoke, it was with quiet shame: “What a fool I am.”

Then, within days, she seemed to move on. She deleted most of the emails from her scammer, as well as the dating apps on her phone. “I’m done with men for a while,” she said, laughing. She kept busy at work, and a few months later was interviewed by a newspaper about her clinic. In the photo accompanying the article, she wore a uniform and a big smile. She told the reporter that she liked restoring people’s self-esteem.

Eventually my mom dated again, but never seriously. From time to time she would tell me, “I think another scammer contacted me.” She acted as if falling in love with someone who didn’t exist was funny. I remembered how, when I was a child, she taught me that each morning was a new opportunity to put the past behind you. She seemed to be living her own advice.

In February 2020, four years after learning the truth about Brian, I moved into an apartment with a friend. I was 24 by then and working as a journalist. Jaime was living in Germany, and Miguel was stationed in Badajoz, over 200 miles from Madrid. I knew that my leaving would be difficult for my mother, but then, just two weeks after I moved out, the prime minister declared an unprecedented state of emergency: Spain was one of the hardest-hit countries in the early stages of the pandemic.

During three months of mandatory lockdown, my mother became anxious and depressed, so I started violating COVID rules to stay with her three days a week. I would drive through Madrid’s deserted streets, hoping to avoid the police, mad at my brothers for not being close enough to help, mad at the world for putting me in this position, and mad at myself for being mad. My mother and I would watch the news over dinner, and she’d talk about being alone. This led to arguments. “You don’t understand what it’s like when no one needs you,” she said. Sometimes I felt like I might as well have been invisible.

I was surprised to find myself thinking about Brian, now four years gone from our lives, and wondering again why my mom never suspected him. She was capable and independent, our family’s anchor, the constant amid the ups and especially the downs, which could have put me or my brothers on a disreputable or self-destructive path. How did she become so unmoored? What had I missed? It was as if there were a mirror in my mind, and when I put my mother’s sadness and isolation in front of it, the reflection I saw was her scammer. Except of course I had no idea what Brian looked like, what his real name was, or how he plied his criminal trade.

A year and a half into the pandemic, I told my mother I wanted to go to Nigeria to find her scammer. She was in the kitchen, whipping up something to eat, and as soon as I asked the question, I worried how she would react. “If not find him,” I quickly added, “at least try to understand why he did it.”

My mother looked at me and smiled. She nodded several times. “Every time I hear John Legend’s ‘All of Me,’ I remember him,” she said. “He dedicated that song to me.”

No one has been able to quantify the precise number of romance scammers in Nigeria, but it may well be in the hundreds of thousands.

My fixer, Bukky Omoseni, was waiting for me at the Lagos airport when I arrived close to midnight in March 2022. I already knew that Bukky, whom I met through a journalism acquaintance, was skeptical that we’d be able to locate Brian. “It’s easier to find a needle in a haystack,” he told me on a phone call before I left Madrid. He was probably right. No one has been able to quantify the precise number of romance scammers in Nigeria, but it may well be in the hundreds of thousands. The only lead I had was the email address Brian had used with my mom. I sent a message to it, pretending to be her, saying that I missed him, but the email bounced.

At the very least, Bukky promised to connect me with other romance scammers, and he was true to his word from the start: He brought Biggy with him to the airport to pick me up. Biggy, whom Bukky referred to as his “assistant,” took his nickname from Biggie Smalls, and he bore a slight resemblance to his “mentor,” as he called the long-deceased rapper. “He’s the Notorious Biggie, I’m the glorious Biggy,” he joked.

With Bukky’s driver, who called himself Skulls, at the wheel, we headed to my hotel in Ikeja, on the mainland. It was a two-story building with a patio, a club, and an indoor swimming pool on the ground floor. When we got to my room, I could feel the walls shaking—the party downstairs was at its peak. A hotel waiter knocked at the door; he’d brought up a bottle of whisky and some ice. “Let’s celebrate,” Bukky said. “Carlos is here!”

Drinking quickly set things in motion. After two glasses, we went down to the club, where dozens of women were dancing, a band was playing Afrobeat songs, and men were throwing cash on the floor, making it rain. Bukky joined in with a few Yoruba singers while I sat on a couch with Biggy, who was drinking and smoking silently. I tried to start a conversation, but the music was too loud. Instead, I asked him for a cigarette, to have something to do as I watched the scene before me.

The next morning, Bukky started acting strangely. He went to the bank to deposit some money but couldn’t remember his PIN. When he got back he looked unwell, and he kept repeating a single word: September. September. September. I wondered if he was still drunk from the night before or if he’d taken drugs. Biggy calmed me down. “He’s probably sick from malaria,” he explained.

Bukky fell into a fitful sleep. He woke up periodically and apologized to me; each time, I begged him to go to a doctor, only to have him say that he was feeling better before closing his eyes again. The cycle continued for several days. (Bukky did eventually go to the hospital; his mother later said that he was diagnosed with malaria and typhoid.)

That was how I wound up spending most of my time with Biggy. When I wasn’t interviewing one of the dozen other Yahoo boys I met during my trip, we watched old Hollywood movies and replays of British soccer matches in my apartment. Biggy also became my unofficial guide to Africa’s largest city.

One morning the two of us went out for breakfast. It was a Sunday, and the streets throbbed with life. Lagosians abhor slackness; as the pidgin saying goes, I no come Lagos come count bridge (I didn’t come to Lagos to count bridges). The phrase refers to the city’s geography, which includes a coastal lagoon. As Biggy and I snaked through the stalls of vendors selling food, animals, and every ware imaginable, a spirit of entrepreneurship was palpable.

“Do you want to eat something international? Pizza? Sushi?” I asked Biggy.

“Tired already of jollof rice, man?” he replied.

“No! Love it. But maybe you want to try out something different later.”

“I’ve never tried sushi, but I don’t like Chinese food.”

“Chinese don’t eat sushi, Biggy. Japanese do.”

“Are you drunk?!” Biggy shouted over the noise of the street. “Sushi is Chinese. Everybody knows that.”

We settled on pizza.

Biggy was stout, with a carefully groomed beard and stylish outfits. That day he wore an Adidas hat and a Toronto baseball jersey. He moved around Ikeja as if he owned the place, even though, when he wasn’t crashing at my hotel, he lived more than an hour away, in a working-class neighborhood. Biggy seemed to have a sixth sense for where danger might lurk, but he betrayed no fear. He waved at everyone who made eye contact with him and spoke boastfully in his deep bass voice.

“Look,” he told me at one point, slowing his pace and grabbing my arm. He discreetly pointed to two young men with dreadlocks and fancy clothes who were climbing into a Lexus. “Those guys are into Yahoo.”

You just have to mention the words Yahoo boys to a Nigerian and watch their reaction to understand how deeply embedded scammers have become in the national conversation. A lot of people see them as young men who’ve chosen a life of crime, preying on foreigners and marring Nigeria’s reputation. “They are blinded by greed and the desire to make fast money,” Ademola Adeeko, a political writer, told me. A high-ranking police officer said that their upbringing was to blame: “It is not an issue of ‘what can the police do?’ It’s only their parents that can guide them properly.”

There’s another side to public opinion, however, one that sees Yahoo boys as young men pushed to the brink by their circumstances. Nigeria has an estimated 53.4 percent unemployment rate among 15-to-34-year-olds, and an average monthly income on par with what it was in 1980. Many people complain that the government is riddled with corruption far more serious than what the Yahoo boys are up to. “Scammers steal from foreigners, and they spend the money here,” a Lagosian musician told me. “Politicians steal from us and spend the money abroad.” One romance scammer I spoke to put it this way: “Are you going to apply for a job that will pay you 25,000 naira when a bag of rice in Nigeria is 30,000 naira? Inflation is crazy. Prices are skyrocketing. The only thing in Nigeria young people can do to survive is joining Yahoo. No office work can give you the kind of money that Yahoo will give you.”

That’s why Biggy began “hustling,” as he calls it, in 2012. He was 19 at the time. He noticed that some of his friends had nice clothes, watches, and phones. They were Yahoo boys, so he became one, too, focusing on romance cons. “I started doing it for a better life, because the country itself is fucked up,” he said. “We are brainers, not scammers. Would you be able to cook up a story and tell it to someone who has never seen you in your life and get them to send money?”

The playbook for romance scamming starts with creating, buying, or hacking a social media account to pretend to be another person, usually a white, attractive American. Biggy’s first identity was Frederick Bolten, a U.S. soldier based in Afghanistan. Biggy told me that it’s better if a fake account has existed for a while, because that helps it appear legitimate. When he created Natasha Bridges’s profile, he joined lots of American Facebook groups, prompting members to send Natasha friend requests, which in turn made it seem like she had a network. Then he left the account alone for two years before he started “bombing,” slang for sending messages to hundreds of strangers.

Think for a minute—you may have received one of these messages on Instagram, Facebook, WhatsApp, Twitter, or any number of dating apps, asking how you’re doing or complimenting your profile pic. You may have even joked about it with your friends. Scammers know that most people won’t reply, but occasionally someone does. That person becomes a “client,” and the dance begins.

At first, Biggy wasn’t sure what to do when someone responded to him. How am I supposed to start a conversation? he remembered thinking. How can I build a relationship with this stranger? In time he decided that he had a real gift for making people fall in love with him. He was able to work in a range of emotional registers. He saw that a simple “How was your day, babe?” could mean a lot, and that making a client laugh kept them interested in a conversation. “You need to have a good sense of humor,” Biggy said. “If they crack a joke, you should also crack a joke.” On the flip side, he had to be ready to go deeper. Take his exchange, as Natasha, with a man I’ll call Bob:

B: Im battling Father Time and Mother Nature. And losing both races
N: Well you can’t run both races one has go for one
B: Which one becomes more influential?
N: Well those that make u happy
B: Hmmmm. What makes you happy?
N: Being able to handle my financial business without stress.

How long it takes to earn a client’s trust varies. “It might take a month, it might take a week, it might take two days,” said Biggy’s friend and fellow scammer Smart Billion. “All you have to do is keep talking.” What’s certain is that, once they establish a close relationship, a reason will come up to ask for money. He’ll say that he has a medical emergency or unexpected legal fees, or that he wants to get a plane ticket to meet in person. “Just don’t be a dumbass. Don’t ask for $50 after two days,” Biggy said. “That will be a red flag.”

One of Biggy’s strategies as Natasha was to ask for money for child care, so that she could visit a client for a weekend without her daughter. Mentioning money causes some victims to become suspicious and drop out of the conversation, but others are so emotionally invested that they give the scammer whatever he requests, no questions asked. They don’t care that they’ve never met the person asking for money, someone who speaks in clichés and whose messages are often filled with typos—a function, Biggy explained, of talking to so many people at once. (English is Nigeria’s official language, and many scammers are college educated.)

Some Yahoo boys are so successful, they live lavish lifestyles by Lagosian standards—hence the scammers we saw getting into the Lexus, and the young men filling fancy clubs around the city night after night, buying bottles of Moët. Visible affluence has made scammers into powerful symbols in some circles, where they inspire not shame but pride. In Nigeria’s hip-hop culture, for instance, they’re synonymous with wealth and luxury. “Yahoo Boyz” and “Am I a Yahoo Boy” are just two of the songs about con artists to rack up millions of views on YouTube.

Some musicians also paint Yahoo boys as populist heroes—modern-day Robin Hoods, taking what they need from those who have more than enough, because their country won’t provide for them. “No job for street / No pay, no way, how boys eat / … Dem no go do Yahoo if dem get choice,” raps Xbusta. In 2019, Naira Marley, a popular hip-hop artist, said publicly that Yahoo boys aren’t doing anything wrong, implying that their cons are a price the West must pay for the legacies of slavery and colonialism. His statement stirred up considerable controversy, particularly after Marley was arrested on online fraud charges. (The case is still pending.)

Biggy told me that he earned enough from hustling to cover his personal expenses as well as his parents’ rent. When I asked what his mom and dad thought about how he makes his money, Biggy bristled slightly. “It isn’t they don’t care, bro, but do you have a solution to unemployment?” he said. “If you say I should stop this hustle I’ve been doing for years, would you give me a job? That will pay me more than I’m collecting? If you can’t answer the question, then you can’t judge me.”

“For every successful Yahoo boy that makes $100,000 from a victim and buys a house,” Bukky said, “there are hundreds with a phone in the slums who get no more than a hundred dollars.”

History shows that cons beget cons and rackets evolve. The first documented 419 scam, according to Stephen Ellis’s book This Present Darkness: A History of Nigerian Organized Crime, was staged by P. Crentsil, a former employee of the colonial government in Lagos. On December 18, 1921, he wrote a letter to a contact in the Gold Coast (present-day Ghana) presenting himself as “a Professor of Wonders.” The recipient, he promised, would experience the benefit of Crentsil’s magical powers—if they paid him up front.

Crentsil, however, was merely putting a twist on what, in 1898, The New York Times referred to as “one of the most successful swindles known to the police authorities.” The so-called Spanish prisoner con involved a scammer sending a letter in which they posed as someone writing on behalf of an inmate in one of Spain’s notoriously brutal prisons seeking funds to secure release; the people who received the letters, often merchants, were promised a reward for their support. As it happened, prominent individuals living in Nigeria during the colonial period were the targets of some Spanish prisoner cons; in April 1914, the Nigerian Customs and Trade Journal reprinted a letter from the British ambassador to Spain, Arthur Hardinge, who wrote, “It is considered advisable that the public in Nigeria should be warned to be upon their guard.”

Incidence of 419 fraud ramped up in the 1980s, as Nigeria’s share of the global oil market shrank and the national economy contracted. Letters purportedly written by Nigerian princes or petroleum executives were sent around the world, becoming such a problem for the country’s image that Nigerian embassies bought full-page ads in European newspapers warning readers about the too-good-to-be-true offers that might show up in their mailboxes. When the World Wide Web was born, scammers went paperless. Where previously a lot of them had worked for organized syndicates, now anyone could be their own boss—all they needed was an internet connection, which was readily available in Lagos’s proliferating cybercafes. The police sometimes raided these establishments, but with the advent of wireless internet and smartphones, there was little law enforcement could do. Not that they haven’t tried: Cops have been known to check young people’s phones for messages sent to Westerners via Facebook or dating apps. The practice led to backlash during Nigeria’s End SARS movement, a series of massive protests against police brutality, and in 2020 the government ordered law enforcement to stop.

These days, Nigeria’s Economic and Financial Crimes Commission is tasked with cracking down on scammers and anyone aiding or abetting them. Outside the commission’s headquarters, there’s a sign with the slogan “EFCC will get you, anywhere, anytime,” under a picture of a menacing-looking eagle. But the truth is that at best the EFCC is playing Whac-a-Mole. Meanwhile, foreign authorities are barely in the game: By the time victims in Western countries inform law enforcement what happened to them—if they do at all—the perpetrator is almost certainly in the wind.

There are still criminal organizations running rings of scammers in Nigeria; Biggy told me that he worked for one when he first started out, sitting in a cramped apartment and sending 20,000 spam messages a day to foreigners, hoping for a few replies. He made about $30 a month, and described it as the worst time of his life. It’s much more lucrative to go it alone, he explained, if you can pay for your own internet. But that doesn’t mean you’re going to get rich right away, or ever. I remembered something Bukky told me on the phone before my trip: “For every successful Yahoo boy that makes $100,000 from a victim and buys a house in Lekki,” an upscale part of Lagos, “there are hundreds with a phone in the slums who get no more than a hundred dollars.”

Biggy told me that he often hangs out in a “crack house” on the outskirts of Lagos, where five to ten guys huddle in a room, discussing clients and doing drugs to stay awake—Yahoo boys tend to work at night because of the time difference with the United States. They swap stories about their experiences to help one another. “We grab a joint, listen to music, and share ideas,” Biggy said.

Recently, one of his friends had been scamming a 61-year-old truck driver in Florida who, after 33 years of marriage, was in the middle of a divorce. “He said his wife had sued him in court,” the friend told me. “I think she’s gonna win the case, and my client will lose his properties. That’s bad for me. I’m sad for him. I’m telling him everything will be fine, trust me, believe in God.” As for Biggy’s friend Smart Billion, he once didn’t sleep for three nights in a row because he was talking nonstop to Jennifer, a woman in Iowa. She sent him more than $500, then abruptly blocked him online.

Had he said the wrong thing? Did Jennifer get wise to his con? Smart Billion might never know, but there were Yahoo boys who, when their scams weren’t going well, turned to higher powers for help. Early one morning, Biggy, Skulls, and I drove to the working-class neighborhood of Ejigbo to meet with a practitioner of what’s known as “Yahoo plus.” The man was a juju priest who claimed to help romance scammers improve their game.

We met Gbenga in the middle of a road, and he led us to the backyard of a building through a worn metal door as a cluster of kids watched from a distance—they likely weren’t used to seeing oyinbo (white people) in the area. There were boxes holding live animals in the yard, and tires were scattered about on the dusty ground. Gbenga pulled out plastic chairs for us, then went inside the building. When he returned he was wearing orange pants, an apron, and a belt covered in small skulls. He was holding a potion made of soap and snake’s egg—one of his most in-demand products, he explained. The cost: 250,000 naira (roughly $500).

Gbenga told us that he made around 1.25 million naira ($2,500) every month selling the concoctions, many of them purchased by Yahoo boys, who then consumed them. His is a family business: “All my ancestors were herbalists, and I hope my kids do the same.” At one point during our visit, Gbenga grabbed a pot, poured liquid from a recycled bottle of Fanta into it, then mixed in a few eggs. He said that if he made this potion while looking at a picture of a Yahoo boy’s client, it would make the scammer “successful in love.” 

Drinking potions isn’t the only form of Yahoo plus. On the instruction of juju priests, young men will sleep in cemeteries, eat feces, or bark like a dog, all in the hope of improving their relationships with clients and making more money. Footage of these rituals has gone viral on social media, and even made the international news. Some scammers scoff at the stories. They think Yahoo plus is bullshit and call juju priests “the 419s of the 419s”—the scammers’ scammers.

Yahoo boys also have a word for their victims: maga, which means foolish, senseless, or gullible. One of the most popular hip-hop songs about scammers is “Maga Don Pay.” Brian, who as my trip wore on I came no closer to finding, probably used the term to describe my mom.

When I asked Smart Billion over lunch one day how he perceived his own clients, he said, “I don’t see them as fools. I see them as my helpers.” He reached for another slice of pepperoni pizza as he spoke. Biggy had bought us a huge meal: several pizzas, boxes of chicken wings, soft drinks, and ice cream. All told he’d spent around 45,000 naira ($60), more than many Nigerians’ monthly income. As we talked about clients, he posted pictures of us on Snapchat.

Data from the Federal Trade Commission suggests that Americans over 60 lose the most money to online fraud. This trend is likely true in most Western countries with a lot of scam victims. But Biggy and other Yahoo boys told me that age isn’t what makes someone fall for a romance scam—loneliness does. “It’s only a lonely person that will pay attention to you,” Biggy said. “Loneliness is the number one key to be scammed.” Exploiting it, he said, required feigning empathy. “You have to fabricate a story saying that you also are lonely,” he explained. “Because if you can’t show that you are also lonely, how can you convince your partner that you share the same problem?”

A recent Harvard study suggests that more than a third of the country feels “serious loneliness,” including 61 percent of young adults and 51 percent of mothers with young children. A deep sense of isolation has been linked to elevated blood pressure, dementia, anxiety, and paranoia. It can also affect how we reason with ourselves and interact with the world. “Loneliness is the inability to speak with another in one’s private language,” author Yiyun Li has written. “That emptiness is filled with public language or romanticized connections.” It’s no mystery why the romance-scam business skyrocketed during the pandemic, when so many people found themselves cut off from normal life. According to the FTC, Americans lost $1.3 billion to romance scams in 2021, an 80 percent increase over 2020 and a sixfold jump since 2017.

Biggy said he sometimes felt like his clients’ therapist. “Their lives would be worse without me,” he claimed. Take Pamela, whom he’d been talking to for almost three years. Pamela lived in Texas, and was the mother of two daughters, one of whom had died in a car accident. She thought Biggy was an American named Christopher. At some point, despite divulging that she was on welfare, Pamela began sending money to Biggy, eventually depositing about $2,000 into accounts he directed her to. She also suggested more than once that she might commit suicide. In December 2021, Biggy replied to one such threat:

I swear to God I will help u baby
I don’t wanna lose u or let u die
I don’t know if u can open coinbase and binance baby
That’s the one going
Let’s do this fast my queen
You been out in the cold too much
I love u

A few weeks later, when Biggy wished her a happy New Year, she replied bitterly:

Who cares that it’s a new year, another year the same fucken bullshit.

Later, in January 2022, she got drunk and sent him a raft of messages:

I might not show it I smile for everyone to see but inside I’m broken nobody knows cause I don’t talk about it.

The love I feel for you will never change.

Seeing these messages was like reading someone’s diary without their permission—I felt uncomfortable, even embarrassed, knowing what Pamela had said. I asked Biggy if he ever felt the same, or if he at least worried about her. “She’s not going to kill herself,” he said. “She just craves attention.” It sounded like he was convincing himself as much as me.

“A man’s got to do what a man’s got to do, you know?” he continued. “If I feel sorry, how I’m gonna get money?” 

If it was only about money, I asked Biggy, why was he still talking to Pamela when she hadn’t sent him any in a while and he didn’t think she would again?

“Dunno,” he said.

He told me that he knew of clients who didn’t get angry when they figured out they were being conned. “When they’re totally in love with you, when they fall fully in love with you, they don’t give a fuck if you are a scam or not,” he said. “There are some whites that know you are a scam, but they will still pay you. They will tell you, ‘I know you are a scam, but I love you.’ ” He burst out laughing at the thought.

Like everyone else, Smart Billion didn’t have a clue who Brian was, but he did have an opinion about my mom: “She was ready.”

Biggy acknowledged that he thought about quitting the Yahoo life, but not because he felt guilty for swindling his clients. “I don’t want my kids to know that their father was a scammer,” he explained. Plus, he was in love with a Nigerian woman he’d met on Facebook, and he wanted to start a family with her. (She was real, he insisted. He’d talked to her on video, and Biggy, like all my sources, said there are very few female romance scammers.) Like a lot of Yahoo boys, he also hoped to become a hip-hop musician one day. Maybe then he could stop scamming.

There are stories of Yahoo boys who left the game because of their clients. I visited one of them, a man I’ll call Bamidele, in Abuja, Nigeria’s capital city, near the end of my trip. It was morning when I arrived, and already stiflingly hot. I was thankful to cool off in Bamidele’s Toyota Corolla.

Bamidele said that he’d been living on his own in Abuja since he was 18. He moved there from his hometown south of the city because he wanted to be a hairdresser, and he got a job in exchange for a place to stay, which turned out to be a small shipping container. He hated it—“surviving was hard, I only ate gari for a while,” he said, referring to ground cassava root often cooked into a porridge. One day in 2018, someone took him to a house where young people scammed Americans for a criminal syndicate. He became a Yahoo boy but again made no money; payment was in the form of food and accommodation. Eventually, he got a paying job as a scammer, and he became better and better at duping his targets. He told me that he’d persuaded a Dutch client to send him $3,500, and that a woman he messaged with ended up traveling to Afghanistan, thinking that the man she’d fallen in love with was there.

Then there was Yolanda, who gave me permission to use her real name. (When I first spoke to her on the phone, she told me, “My story is like a movie.”) Bamidele found her on Instagram, where he pretended to be a white American man. They chatted for two months before Yolanda, who was from Spain, became suspicious and read up on romance scams. She wrote a message to Bamidele, translated it online into Yoruba, then sent it off.

When Bamidele read it, his face grew hot—he’d been discovered. He tried to deny the truth, but Yolanda was no fool. Normally, this was when Bamidele would block a client and turn his attention to other targets, but Yolanda surprised him by asking for a video call. He accepted, and an unlikely friendship was born. Yolanda even flew to Abuja to meet him. She started an NGO to support women and girls kidnapped by the terrorist group Boko Haram, and she gave Bamidele a loan. After meeting Yolanda, he stopped scamming to become an Uber driver.

Over beers and wings on a terrace overlooking Jabi Lake, I told Bamidele about my mom and Brian. Because Brian’s emails had come from a computer instead of a smartphone, my hunch was that he worked for a syndicate with the resources to provide scammers with hardware. Bamidele, who had a boyish face, chuckled at my ignorance. “It could have been anyone,” he said.

Then his tone turned serious; the sun was setting as he spoke. “You must understand that victims tell everything to their scammer. Everything!” Bamidele said, emphasizing each syllable of the word. “I’m 100 percent sure that your mother told things to her scammer that you don’t know. Things about her that you have never imagined in your life. Her ambitions, her flaws, her broken dreams. They are looking for someone that will listen to them, period.”

I resented the suggestion that someone my mother never met might know more about her than I did. But Bamidele’s words echoed something I’d heard from Smart Billion. At the end of each interview with a Yahoo boy, I’d show him messages between my mother and her scammer, hoping he might know who Brian was. “This guy is goooooood,” Smart Billion had practically crooned. Like everyone else, he didn’t have a clue who Brian was, but he did have an opinion about my mom: “She was ready.”

All my life, since I was a child, then as a wife and then as a working mother I spend my life taking care of the others and now I wish someone takes care of me.

I really want to hear your voice before year ends. I want this present from you. As I told you if you would be able to tell me by email you are going to call me I could answer it is allright. I have seen WhatsApp is not a good idea. Anyway I have written I want the time passed very quickly and to be with you as soon as possible. 

Take care of yourself. There is someone in Spain waiting for you!

Un beso, Silvia

One of the most vivid memories from my childhood is holding hands with my mother as she walked me to school. I was probably seven years old; this was in the middle of my parents’ divorce. I remember my mom looking down at the ground as we walked, and I was vaguely aware that she was sad. To cheer her up I squeezed her hand, and she answered me by squeezing back. We created our own silent language with our fingers.

Perhaps because my parents’ split was messy, I felt older than other kids my age, which made for a kind of loneliness. To keep myself company, I made up stories. I also spent countless hours in front of my PlayStation, pausing between games or levels to look through the window and wonder if the world outside was getting away from me. I don’t remember feeling particularly sad, just empty, like a shoebox without shoes in it.

At one point, my mom entered a romantic relationship that lasted several years. Rather than be happy for her, my brothers and I were mostly annoyed. Where’s mum? Who is this guy? We don’t like him! Sometimes, instead of going out, she would invite her boyfriend and others over to the house on a Saturday evening, fix them drinks, and play Nina Simone or Amaral on a loop. I remember being at least somewhat aware that she was staying in because otherwise I’d be by myself. There were other Saturdays when it was just the two of us, and we’d play Monopoly for hours, rolling the dice and buying properties late into the night.

When I started university I became less solitary, but I still enjoyed spending time with my mom. On weekend mornings, I would read novels and she would make jewelry, with classical music playing in the background. We’d have lunch, and drinks later in the day. We talked, of course, but I was convinced that our relationship was built on a comfortable silence. We didn’t need words. “My last son,” she sometimes said, “what am I going to do when you leave?”

My mother never had another serious boyfriend, which confused me. She was intelligent, funny, and pretty, with hypnotic eyes she inherited from her own mother. Privately, I began to wonder if her trouble finding a partner was because she was too picky (Hes bald) or because she actually wanted to be alone (He can’t keep up with me). That was easier than acknowledging her when, after another failed date, she would ask me, “Is this the price I have to pay for having three wonderful sons?”

At some point my mindset changed. I spent time with my mom more out of pity than anything else. I told my friends that I felt bad for her, that I felt guilty leaving her alone. There’s a thin line between compassion and condescension when it comes to one’s parents, and it’s hideously easy to tip from one sentiment into the other.

It’s also easy to judge the victims of romance scams—I did it with my mom, wondering how she could have been so foolish. Speaking to others like her, it became clear that this knee-jerk reaction could be devastating. During my reporting, I joined several Facebook support groups for victims of romance scams, shared my mother’s story, and talked to anyone who reached out. There were widows, divorced people, and retirees. Some of them had lost tens of thousands of dollars, gone deep into debt, or mortgaged their homes to get scammers the money they asked for. I spoke to the loved ones of victims still in thrall to their scammers, including Zed, who was trying to convince his father he was being conned. “I’ve told him, I’ve showed him articles, I’ve sent him videos of scammers admitting they scam,” Zed wrote to me. As a last resort, he posted his father’s email address to a Facebook group so strangers who’d been victimized could contact his dad directly and share their experiences.

Several victims talked about vengeance. Even more talked about shame. They’d heard the same question over and over, or had asked it of themselves: How could you be so stupid to fall for a romance scam? “It’s the saddest crime on earth,” a California woman told me. Another woman confessed that she’d been in communication with multiple scammers and that cutting them off had been hard. “I used to miss talking to my scammers,” she wrote, “but I quickly realized it wasn’t them, it was how they filled my day.”

I heard Smart Billion again in my head: She was ready.

He meant that my mom was ready for Brian—or for someone, anyone, like him. Whatever affection there was in the silences of her life, in the unspoken bond with her sons, the people who loved her most, my mother longed for certain words, needed them, and for a while Brian had provided them. He once wrote to her:

At the end of the day I have this joy in my heart because I have found you. it is a beautiful feeling, I feel like I’ve not felt like this in a very long time. Do you also have that feeling like you were in high again? the feeling of being happy and scared at the same time? I am just keeping my fingers crossed, hoping for the best. I want to be happy and I know I can be happy with you.

By the time I left Bamidele to his Uber shift, it had become clear that visiting Nigeria was never entirely about finding Brian. It was also about trying to bridge the gap between my sense of my mom and her sense of herself.

I’d also recognized that my mom had a mask of her own—she often wore it with me and my brothers, to protect us as much as herself. And she’d cast it off for a stranger, a choice that was perhaps never mine to understand.

Bukky looked like a new man. When I returned to Lagos from Abuja, we spent my last few days in Nigeria together. Fully recovered from his illnesses, Bukky took me to the Nike Art Gallery, a massive compound that hosts more than 8,000 works from artists across Africa. I met with the founder, Nike Davies-Okundaye, an artist known for her exquisite embroidery and cloth work. “If there’s no love, if there’s no adventure, what is life for?” she said to me.

On the final day of my trip, after I settled my bill at a hotel on Victoria Island, Bukky and I spotted an elderly white woman and a twentysomething Nigerian man holding hands. We wondered to one another if he’d scammed her, and whether, once she found out, she’d traveled to Nigeria and they decided to be together. “If we were making a movie,” Bukky said, “you couldn’t make this thing up.”

As I waited at my gate to fly home, I opened my notebook to review everything I’d written down during the trip. On the first day, in capital letters, I’d scribbled an Igbo proverb I read in an interview with author Chinua Achebe: “The world is a dancing masquerade. If you want to understand it, you can’t remain standing in one place.” In Igbo culture, masquerades involve acrobatics, dance, and elaborate costumes that conceal the wearers’ identities. The regalia, beautiful and often fearful, is intended to evoke the spiritual realm. Achebe’s interpretation of the saying was that “we, as inhabitants of the world, must learn to adapt, to change, and to move.”

When I read it again, the proverb struck a new chord. I’d spent a long time standing in one place, seeing things one way. By traveling thousands of miles, I’d encountered young men who donned masks to manipulate people and get what they wanted from the world. I’d also recognized that my mom had a mask of her own—she often wore it with me and my brothers, to protect us as much as herself. And she’d cast it off for a stranger, a choice that was perhaps never mine to understand.

My mom listened carefully when I told her about my trip, and she only had compassion for the Yahoo boys I’d met. “I understand why they do it,” she said. She mentioned the John Legend song again, the one she associated with Brian, and it occurred to me that she had never outright blamed him for scamming her. Now 63, my mom goes every week to a book presentation, a painting class, or a flower-arranging workshop hoping to meet a man she’ll fall in love with. She’s optimistic about her future; momentary disappointments always give way to new hope.

I’ve kept in touch with Biggy on WhatsApp. He’s still scamming, but not as Natasha Bridges—he prefers other fake identities. He sometimes asks me about my mother, which makes me think of the last night I hung out with him in Lagos. We were in my apartment, where Biggy was rolling a joint, and I asked him if he had any advice for my mom. He laughed. “Tell her, please—do video calls.”

There was a long silence before Biggy spoke again. “You have to be skeptical in life,” he said. “Not all that glitters is gold.”


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Stranger Than Fiction

Stranger Than Fiction

Inside the ‘Epoch Times’: How an aspiring poet in Brooklyn became a tool in a right-wing propaganda blitz linked to Falun Gong.

By Oscar Schwartz

The Atavist Magazine, No. 108


Oscar Schwartz has written for The Guardian, The Baffler, The Atlantic, and Wired, among other publications. Originally from Australia, he is now based in Brooklyn. Follow him on Twitter: @scarschwartz.

Editor: Seyward Darby
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Kate Wheeling
Photographer: Jonno Rattman

Published in October 2020.

*Indicates a pseudonym.

I.

“Blame it on the Falun Gong / They’ve seen the end and you can’t hold on now.”

This lyric from the title track of Guns N’ Roses’ album Chinese Democracy popped into Steven Klett’s head as he rode the New York City subway one sunny Wednesday morning in March 2016. Klett, 27, was on his way from his apartment in Brooklyn to a job interview at a newspaper. He was wearing a green button-down shirt, a suit jacket, and black pants. His shoulder-length auburn hair was tied back in a tight, low ponytail. He needed this job desperately.

The position—breaking-news web content writer—was not his ideal gig. Klett had an MFA in poetry, and his chapbook A Field Full of Mirrors had been published in 2015 to some acclaim. He had dreamed, however briefly, of being a full-time poet. Now he was spending his days writing freelance copy for a public relations firm, earning $10 per article. He was a tidy, proficient writer, and had applied to jobs at venerable media outlets like Mother Jones and Slate. This was his first interview.

Before encountering the listing online, Klett had not heard of the Epoch Times. He browsed articles on its website, mostly brief reports cribbed from other news sources. The opinion section leaned conservative, offering takes that might appeal to Klett’s father. Klett considered himself something of an anarchist. But, as with his poetic aspirations, he was ready to set aside his political beliefs in order to make rent without having to skip meals.

One detail about the newspaper that seemed peculiar was its extensive coverage of human rights abuses in China. In particular, there were numerous reports about an organization called Falun Gong. Klett had not heard of Falun Gong, a spiritual movement whose followers, his cursory research showed, had been targeted for persecution by the Chinese government. As the subway rattled beneath the East River and Guns N’ Roses played in his mind, Klett wondered: Blame Falun Gong for what?

Klett arrived at the 12-story brick building on West 28th Street and took the elevator up to the fifth floor. He was greeted by the newspaper’s human resources manager and two senior editors—Cindy Drukier, who had a subtle Canadian accent, and Jasper Fakkert, a tall, slim man with a ginger beard that he scratched nervously. Drukier began the interview by noting that the two writing samples Klett had submitted concerned politics. She asked where he got his news. He said The Atlantic and The Washington Post, eager to veer as close to the ideological center as possible. The editors nodded.

After asking about his education, his work experience, his writing skills, and his poetry, the conversation turned to current events. The previous evening, Donald Trump had convincingly beaten his Republican opponents on Super Tuesday, and the prospect of his candidacy was being taken more seriously. Hillary Clinton had edged out Bernie Sanders. Klett, like many Americans, believed she had a real shot at the presidency.

Fakkert, who had a Dutch accent, explained that he was only interested in hiring reporters who would be able to cover the news in a fair and impartial way. “Here at the Epoch Times,” he said, “we are a nonpartisan news source.” Fakkert asked if Klett could write from a perspective that conflicted with his own views.

Klett had prepared for this question. He explained that a few months earlier he’d been asked by a manager at the PR firm where he freelanced to write a short blog post about Trump’s appearance hosting Saturday Night Live. Personally, Klett found Trump unfunny and self-aggrandizing, but the manager told him that Eric Trump, one of the candidate’s sons, was a client at the firm. “I was taking as neutral a position as I could,” Klett said of the post he ultimately wrote. “I thought of it as an exercise and a challenge to take my opinion out of the article.”

The editors smiled and thanked him for coming in. Later that day, they offered him the job.

As the subway rattled beneath the East River and Guns N’ Roses played in his mind, Klett wondered: Blame Falun Gong for what?

At a sports bar on a cold evening in December 2019, Klett leaned forward on his stool so I could hear his gentle, droning voice above the obnoxiously loud Christmas music. His long hair was magnificent, voluminous, excessively brushed. It lent him a strong resemblance—but for a long scar running down his forehead—to Axl Rose. He had a meticulous memory and offered keenly observed details about his experience at the Epoch Times. The outlet, Klett learned during his tenure there, did much more than cover Falun Gong.

Since coming to global attention in the late 1990s, Falun Gong has flourished precisely because its adherents use print and digital media to reach sympathetic audiences beyond China. Falun Gong simultaneously spreads news of its plight and amplifies the worldview of its charismatic founder, Li Hongzhi, who claims that his teachings are rooted in ancient beliefs and practices and promise believers health, freedom, and moral fortitude. But where some see a virtuous community, others see a cult: Critics say that Li is a narcissistic charlatan who enlists guileless followers to adopt his conservative social views.

Falun Gong practitioners insist that this portrayal is false, concocted by Beijing to tarnish Li’s name because the Communist regime perceives his movement as a threat. But while it is true that China’s state media routinely depicts Falun Gong as deviant, the movement’s positive image emanates largely from its own information apparatus. When reporting on Falun Gong, Western journalists tend to draw on both characterizations, presumably in the name of objectivity. If each is a fabrication serving divergent ideological ends, though, can the result be anything but a collage of propaganda?

The Epoch Times is a key player in the ongoing information war between China and Falun Gong. Indeed, the newspaper is the cornerstone of a media empire that the spiritual movement has built over the past 25 years. It publishes editions in 36 countries and 22 languages; most of the bureaus are run by Li acolytes. In the United States, it reportedly reaches 250,000 weekly print readers, with 34 million monthly page views online. (The Epoch Times and the editors named in this story did not respond to multiple requests for interviews and comment.)

Klett didn’t know any of this when he was hired. Nor was he aware that the Epoch Times was becoming embroiled in yet another power struggle, this one in the United States. As the 2016 election approached, the newspaper morphed into a pro-Trump bullhorn. Writing on his personal blog, Klett would later compare the work he did at the paper to that of Russian bots, which “sow discord in the name of activism, and reduce talking points and political agendas to the conflicts that they engender and narratives that they inhabit.” In the lead-up to the 2020 election, the Epoch Times has pursued this strategy more vigorously than ever. An NBC investigation found that, in the first half of 2019, the newspaper laid out $1.5 million for some 11,000 pro-Trump Facebook ads—the only organization that spent more was the Trump campaign itself. More recently, the newspaper has peddled narratives about COVID-19 that cast China as the pandemic’s chief villain and Trump as a potential savior.

Klett is no longer employed by the newspaper, but he sent me documentation from the period when he worked there and contact information for friends and former colleagues who could corroborate his account. The story of how he became a cog in a burgeoning propaganda machine—and why he stayed on even as the paper’s history and biases became clear—offers a glimpse into the right-wing news industry that has upended the media landscape. It’s a story about the perils of clickbait journalism and disinformation, and the consequences of apathy and alienation. It’s also about the Byzantine collection of interests that helped usher in the Trump presidency.

Klett said that during his stint at the Epoch Times, he had a front-row seat to the epistemic crisis triggered by Trump’s ascendancy, one that has made distinguishing truth from political fiction increasingly difficult. “In that first interview, I was being honest when I said I could be neutral. I really believed that was possible,” Klett admitted, hands shoved deep into his pockets as we walked down a Brooklyn street in search of a quieter bar. “By the time I left, just a few days before the election, I realized what everyone is still coming to terms with.”

“What’s that?” I asked.

“That there’s no difference between the news and propaganda. That objectivity is about who has power.”

II.

The ubiquitous newspaper boxes of New York City—those colorful plastic and metal shells that, day in and day out, once served up the latest information about the world—today look like relics of a bygone media heyday. The red ones from which generations of New Yorkers grabbed the Village Voice stand empty. The blue and white dispensers of The New York Times are often vandalized beyond recognition. The containers that still offer the city’s free dailies are largely ignored by commuters staring at their social media feeds—unless they’ve been repurposed as receptacles for takeaway coffee cups.

The Epoch Times is an exception. Its bright yellow boxes adorned with royal blue text sit on street corners and near train stations everywhere from Chinatown to midtown Manhattan to Flushing, Queens. They are well maintained and frequently restocked, offering passersby a weekly tabloid for 50 cents. If the vast majority of New York’s dilapidated, graffiti-covered newspaper boxes offer a tangible symbol of the death of print, the Epoch Times containers, which are often secured firmly to the ground with metal chains, signify the newspaper’s staunch if quixotic mission to reach the largest possible audience by all available means.

Klett was told that his role at the paper would be to expand its reach on social media. As part of a new digital team, he would generate fast-paced, engaging news articles designed to increase traffic via Facebook and Twitter, where audiences were orders of magnitude larger—and even more chaotic—than on the bustling streets of New York. As was the case with his other writing jobs, clicks would be the metric by which his performance was assessed. He would be paid $2,500 per month, with the expectation that he’d get 100,000 hits per week. Anything over that would earn him a bonus.

Klett’s title was political reporter. At the time, he was following politics with obsessive focus. Like many of his friends, he was fascinated with Bernie Sanders’s campaign and spent many nights in bars talking about whether democratic socialism would ever come to America. Klett’s friends, like Klett himself, were mostly overeducated, underpaid, and downwardly mobile, snapped out of political apathy by the prospect of a revolution “for the people.” Klett was horrified by the spectacle of Trump’s campaign. He knew that there was an America that greed and bigotry appealed to, but it felt far away from his present circumstances in Brooklyn—far away, even, from the mostly white, middle-class town where he grew up.

Born in the final year of Ronald Reagan’s presidency, Klett was raised in Clifton, New Jersey, in a two-story house on a dead-end street with a well-kept lawn and an aboveground pool. His father was quiet and worked a job that he only ever described to his family as “middle management.” Klett’s mother stayed home to take care of him and his brother. His father was a Republican, his mother a centrist Democrat. But they didn’t talk much about ideologies or affiliations. Politics were private, a matter of personal taste.

From a young age, Klett understood that he perplexed his parents. Where they sought to find a frictionless path through their suburban existence, Klett, though withdrawn, always seemed to stick out. He was an avid, precocious reader with a predilection for classic novels. In elementary school, he read Moby Dick. In middle school, he insisted on carrying around a copy of War and Peace. He rejected his parents’ Christianity and could quote Friedrich Nietzsche from memory. In high school, when his mother pushed him to join the marching band, he agreed begrudgingly, then complained that the conductor was an authoritarian. Klett made few friends and spent a lot of time in the counselor’s office.

His two salves were rock music—Soundgarden, Nirvana, Iron Maiden—and his grandmother. She lived on the lower floor of the family home. When Klett was fighting with his parents, he went downstairs to watch MSNBC with his grandmother or listen to her read from The New York Times. Sometimes she told him stories about when she worked as an air traffic controller in the Mojave Desert during World War II. She made the world feel bigger than Clifton, New Jersey.

After high school, Klett went to the College of New Jersey, just over an hour’s drive from home. He joined the track team in an attempt to make friends, but he found the hypermasculine culture of competitive sports menacing. He didn’t drink or do drugs, and he was still a virgin. He wasn’t invited to many parties, and he probably wouldn’t have gone anyway. Klett stayed up late in his room reading William S. Burroughs and writing poetry, imagining himself as one of the lost souls of Allen Ginsberg’s Howl, outsiders “who scribbled all night rocking and rolling over lofty incantations which in the yellow morning were stanzas of gibberish.”

In addition to studying philosophy and literature, Klett enrolled in a journalism class. His teacher, an adjunct who also worked at a Philadelphia newspaper, was idealistic about the function of journalism. She told her students that more important than learning to write a good lede was developing a keen, unflinching interest in the pursuit of truth. Bob Woodward was the paradigm for which they should strive—a Republican in his private life whose yearning for truth was so pure that he wrote stories that brought down a Republican president.

Several weeks into the semester, Klett’s instructor was assigned to cover a mass shooting. A 32-year-old man had stormed a one-room Amish schoolhouse in rural Pennsylvania, shooting 11 students and killing five, all of them girls. When the instructor returned to class a week later, she looked as if she hadn’t slept. She told her students that no one in the Amish community would speak to her—her editor was expecting a story, but she had nothing to work with. Standing behind the lectern, she cried.

To Klett, it seemed that she had absorbed the trauma of the people she was covering. He empathized. As a child, he had on occasion become so deeply engrossed in stories that the boundaries between his life and other people’s blurred. In fourth grade, when he first learned about the Holocaust, he became severely depressed; he knew that his family had German ancestry, and he felt implicated. His mother demanded that Klett stop watching coverage of the O.J. Simpson trial after he confessed to having visions that he was the one who’d murdered Nicole Brown Simpson.

As the semester continued, Klett experienced a familiar muddling of his internal world and external reality. He had considered becoming a journalist but now realized he was ill-equipped to deal with other people’s pain. The future felt uncertain. Klett kept to himself more than ever. He stopped eating and interacting with other students. When a concerned peer told an RA that Klett hadn’t left his room in several days, the college called his parents. Klett never received a clear diagnosis, but doctors prescribed him a long list of pharmaceuticals.

The rest of college passed at a steady, medicated cadence. Klett spent the weekends at home and found his parents overbearing. As a diversion he started a band, the Undercover Rabbis. He met a woman who invited him to live with her and some friends at a winery in Pennsylvania, an offer he accepted after graduating in 2010. The group worked at Whole Foods Market during the day and threw raves at night. Klett used drugs and drank and slept with women and men, all for the first time. He identified as queer, first with trepidation, then with joy—the word itself helped explain why he had always felt so different.

In 2011, Klett received a transfer to work at a Whole Foods in New York City, where he lived for a time in an apartment in Ridgewood, Queens. His grandmother, who had recently died, had left him a small amount of money, which Klett used to pay for an MFA in poetry at the New School. When he wasn’t packing boxes or swiping items through the checkout at Whole Foods, he composed poems that were more controlled than his college writing. His final portfolio, exploring the boundaries between madness and inspiration, intimacy and abuse, was chosen by his professors to be published. “My favorite sex position is the Van Gogh,” one poem begins. “I won’t draw you a picture but it ends with you cutting off my ear / We can only do it twice.”

If Klett was succeeding creatively, his personal life was in disarray. He was trying to leave an abusive relationship and struggling to keep his job. Shortly after graduating, he was fired. He wrote copy for content farms to make rent on a Brooklyn apartment he shared with Martin*, a young housing lawyer and professed Marxist who lectured Klett about the failures of the Obama administration and how the impending Clinton presidency would be more of the same.

Klett listened to Martin, who seemed to know more about political theory than he did. He too felt alienated from what he called “the liberal elite.” But he also remembered the night Obama won the 2008 election. Fireworks outside his college dorm lit up his room, and he could hear spontaneous renditions of “We Shall Overcome” in the hallways. It was a time when Klett was feeling stable, and optimistic about the future. Now he was broke and bored, obsessively following the news and skipping meals. He could feel his reality once again begin to tremble.

When he received the offer from the Epoch Times, which on the surface appeared to offer stability and predictability, along with a regular paycheck, Klett felt a profound sense of relief. It couldn’t have come at a better time.

Klett wrote copy for content farms to make rent on a Brooklyn apartment he shared with  a young housing lawyer and professed Marxist who lectured him about the failures of the Obama administration.

Klett settled into the rhythms of working life. He awoke around 6:30 a.m., switched on MSNBC’s Morning Joe, smoked a joint with Martin, and then headed into the office. He scrolled through his news feeds while drinking a large iced coffee and jotted down story ideas for Fakkert, the digital team’s editor. Fakkert arrived each day at 9 a.m. and squeezed a red stress ball while listening to the day’s pitches.

There were five other journalists on the digital team. A man from Staten Island with tattoos on his arms and contacts at local police precincts; he worked the crime beat. There were two women from Brooklyn, one who had studied journalism and specialized in human-interest stories, and another who covered celebrity gossip and entertainment. A third woman was from Queens; she had previously worked on NBC’s breaking-news desk. Lastly there was Jenna*, a sharp-tongued, perpetually ironic philosophy student who covered science and technology. She and Klett became friends.

Their work was like that of any number of millennials paid to generate content to feed the insatiable appetite of social media. Each team member sat in a small cubicle and churned out content, trying to reach 100,000 clicks per week. It seemed like a huge number, but their bosses assured them it was achievable. The stories they wrote were short and required no original reporting—they were rewrites or pastiches of existing articles and press releases. The work was not particularly absorbing, but the atmosphere in the office was comfortable. After being assigned his stories— “Former Russian World Chess Champion Criticizes Bernie Sanders’s Revolution as ‘Dangerously Absurd,’” “Fox News Poll Gives Hope to Kasich, Discourages Rubio”—Klett would put in his earphones and write as quickly as possible, pausing only to grab a burger or sushi for lunch with Jenna. He headed home at 6 p.m., and prepared for the next day by reading the latest news on social media before going to sleep.

Klett noticed a stark division in the office. The digital team sat together in a small room, apart from the writers, editors, and designers who worked for the print newspaper. The bathroom and kitchen were shared, but the print staff generally kept to themselves. When Klett tried to engage, they were friendly but impersonal. They steered most conversations to the stories he was working on that day.

Whereas the digital team was made up mostly of people who grew up in or around New York, the print staff was geographically diverse, hailing from China, Europe, Canada, and Australia. Many of them seemed to be married to or seeing someone else on staff. They were workaholics, arriving each day before the digital team and leaving well after. Stranger still, many—if not all—of them were followers of Falun Gong.

The relationship between the spiritual movement and the newspaper had been touched upon briefly during the digital team’s orientation. Stephen Gregory, the paper’s publisher—a large, balding man who favored khakis and polo shirts—had explained in a lilting voice how the Epoch Times was founded at the turn of the millennium to inform the world about Falun Gong’s persecution at the hands of the Chinese Communist Party, or CCP. (The new hires were later shown an hour-long film featuring a Chinese man, a Falun Gong practitioner, sitting in a blossom-filled garden talking about how he had escaped to America to live a life of peace.) Gregory said that the paper had since expanded its mission, striving to offer objective, independent reporting on current affairs and world news. While the paper was no longer explicitly connected to Falun Gong, it shared certain values with the movement. These were encapsulated in the Epoch Times’ motto: “Truth and Tradition.”

The digital team was also given a tour of the two floors immediately above the newsroom, which were the headquarters of New Tang Dynasty Television, a cable channel with the same mission as the paper. They were greeted by a senior executive, a Chinese-American man, who guided them to a large room filled floor to ceiling with monitors. The network broadcast programs in dozens of cities around the world, including several in mainland China, where viewers used circumvention tools to bypass firewalls and censors. It was necessary work, the new hires were told. The network had to tell the people of China the truth.

III.

In “golden monkey splitting its body,” the arms form a straight line with the shoulders, stretching toward the horizon on either side of the body. In “two dragons diving into the sea,” the arms reach forward. In “bodhisattva touching the lotus,” the arms are positioned diagonally with the body, hands pointing toward the ground. These movements are part of the recommended hour-long physical routine that many Falun Gong practitioners perform every day. The exercises are serene, deliberate, symmetrical; often they’re done with eyes closed. From New York to Toronto, Sydney to Bangkok, groups of people—many wearing yellow shirts—gather in parks in the early morning to do the movements together.

If you ask a devout Falun Gong practitioner, they might say that the exercises are physical expressions of wisdom dating back to a divine, prehistoric culture, discovered and revived by a spiritually gifted leader to help humanity reconnect with a godly essence. If you ask a historian of China, they’ll likely trace the origins to the 1950s, when the ascendant Communist regime was manufacturing a new national character—one that was modern and scientific, superior to the feudalism of the past, yet still maintained a distinct Chinese identity. Among other things, this immense project demanded a new medical paradigm that preserved traditional healing practices while rejecting their religious and spiritual foundations. Such a paradigm presented itself when a young government clerk wrote a report claiming to have cured himself of various ailments with slow exercises and breathing methods later called qigong, or “energy cultivation.” The report caught the attention of high-ranking officials, who found it useful for their purposes. Medical authorities studied the clerk’s “cultivation system,” as the exercises became known, and used them throughout the late 1950s in specialized clinics and sanatoriums to help people manage pain and sickness.

With the dawning of the Cultural Revolution came a reversal: Qigong was denounced by the state as “feudal superstition.” The government clerk was jailed for being “the creator of the poisonous weed.” The exercise regimen disappeared from public life until the late 1970s, when the paranoia of the “ten-year catastrophe” began to recede.

Qigong experienced a grassroots resurgence in parks throughout Beijing. Amateur teachers who had continued practicing in private during the purges began offering their own particular cultivation systems. State authorities gave tacit approval, and charismatic teachers expanded their followings. By the early 1990s, qigong fever had swept the country. The most popular teachers, or “masters,” became national celebrities. This spurred aspiring spiritual leaders from the provinces to travel to Beijing in the hope of launching their own qigong schools. Among them was Li Hongzhi, who arrived in the capital in 1992 with a cultivation system he called Falun Gong, meaning “the way of the dharma wheel.”

Like other qigong masters, Li had an instinct for self-mythology. He claimed to have been born on the same day as the Buddha and to have been a spiritual prodigy instructed by the most learned Buddhist and Daoist teachers in northeast China. By adolescence, the story went, he had acquired supernatural powers and a lucid comprehension of the ultimate truth of the universe—insight that, as an adult, he synthesized into Falun Gong. His regimen of simple, fluid exercises proved popular, and he rapidly found a following.

What distinguished Li from other qigong teachers were certain spiritual and moral elements he considered necessary for cultivation. In addition to exercises and meditation, Falun Gong demanded personal conduct of its practitioners that was consistent with what Li defined as the three moral axioms of the universe: truth, compassion, and forbearance. He also subscribed to a cyclical view of history, characterized by periods of moral decline followed by apocalyptic redemption. The modern world, Li believed, was in a degenerate state, which manifested itself in popular culture and loose social mores. In long, tangential lectures, he railed against drug use, homosexuality, miscegenation, sexual freedom, and “the demon nature that bursts forth on the soccer field.” He claimed that it was his task to help as many people as possible realize the folly of their ways through Falun Gong, so that when the moment of redemption arrived—and Li asserted that it was coming soon—they would be saved. He called this process “Fa-rectification.”

By 1994, Li had become a major star of the qigong world. His rise, though, came at a moment when the CCP was growing suspicious of qigong’s popularity. Sensing that the cultural tide was turning, Li announced that his mission in China had come to an end. In 1995, he departed for an international lecture tour through Taiwan, Southeast Asia, Europe, and Australia, where his teachings were popular among Chinese diaspora communities and some white New Age types. The tour turned into a permanent relocation. Eventually, Li settled in upstate New York.

In July 1996, China’s Central Propaganda Department banned the publication of Li’s writings, including the Zhuan Falun, the Falun Gong bible. Several newspaper articles accused Li of being a swindler who spread superstition and pseudoscience. From New York, Li connected with practitioners in Beijing on websites and email lists, where he encouraged them to peacefully protest the suppression of their movement. Over the next few years, Falun Gong acolytes staged some 300 demonstrations in China.

The protestors, who often sat cross-legged and silent, were mostly tolerated by the authorities. That changed on a Sunday morning in April 1999, when some 10,000 practitioners gathered outside the Western gate of Zhongnanhai, the guarded compound near Tiananmen Square where the CCP is headquartered. The protestors were quiet and calm, but the intimidating scale of the demonstration unnerved CCP leader Jiang Zemin, who behind closed doors declared Falun Gong the most serious political threat to party authority since the student demonstrations a decade earlier. (Li claimed to have more than 100 million followers at the time; scholars put the figure between 20 million and 60 million.)

State-run media launched a full-scale propaganda war, classifying Falun Gong as a cult posing a danger to the nation. Li rejected the characterization. “We do not oppose the government,” he once said at a conference. “We do not involve ourselves in politics.” The Chinese authorities intensified the crackdown, demanding that government officials who had practiced Li’s cultivation style renounce their affiliation and arresting people considered to be the movement’s key organizers. Falun Gong has since alleged that many of its practitioners were tortured while in custody and that hundreds died as a result. (Some human rights organizations have repeated this claim; Chinese authorities deny it.)

Li largely retreated from the public eye. Falun Gong purchased 427 acres of land in the hills of Deerpark, New York, where it built an expansive, ornate, high-security compound known as Dragon Springs. As well as providing Li with new living quarters, Dragon Springs became a spiritual base for his movement. It has a large temple and is now home to a private high school and college. Over the years, neighboring communities have raised concerns about the compound’s growth. Meanwhile, rumors of abuse and cult-like behavior have circulated, based on testimonials from former Falun Gong practitioners.

The task of defending the movement has fallen largely to North American followers, who unlike their counterparts in China face no risk of imprisonment for their support of Falun Gong. They are often middle-class professionals; many are Chinese immigrants. Among them is John Tang, an émigré with a doctorate in theoretical physics from the Georgia Institute of Technology. In 2000, Tang founded a small newspaper and named it the Epoch Times—a reference, perhaps, to Li’s frequent insistence that the turn of the millennium would bring “a new epoch.”

Li claimed that it was his task to help as many people as possible realize the folly of their ways through Falun Gong, so that when the moment of redemption arrived they would be saved. 

At first the paper was written, edited, and printed by volunteers—Chinese and non-Chinese followers of Li’s teachings, few of whom had any experience in media. It was funded almost exclusively by donations from wealthy Falun Gong practitioners. The goal was to provide an alternative narrative to China’s propaganda about the movement. The first edition, published in Chinese, appeared in May 2000; an online edition followed later that year.

Participating in the media arm of Falun Gong quickly took on a spiritual dimension. Writing or editing for the Epoch Times became an extension of Fa-rectification, the cosmic mission of saving souls. Li made clear that personal cultivation now included acts of hongfa, which roughly means “clarifying truth” to the wider world. But the paper didn’t always get the facts right. In October 2000, it reported that Jiang Zemin had caught a “strange, fatal disease” requiring his leg to be amputated at the upper thigh, a demonstrably false claim. Other stories were murkier. In 2001, after Chinese state media claimed that Li had incited a group of Falun Gong practitioners, including a 12-year-old girl, to self-immolate in Tiananmen Square, the Epoch Times countered by insisting that the event had been staged by Chinese authorities. International media and human rights groups were unable to verify either side’s version, or anything in between. The Washington Post’s attempt to do so produced an article headlined “Human Fire Ignites Chinese Mystery.” The truth of the matter has never been settled.

For the Epoch Times, funding from a growing diaspora of Falun Gong practitioners and other Chinese dissident communities led to explosive growth. By the mid-2000s, it was publishing editions in dozens of cities and several languages around the globe, including an English version in New York. It joined other Falun Gong–associated media outlets, including New Tang Dynasty Television, under the umbrella of the Epoch Media Group. The paper published special editions, such as 2004’s “Nine Commentaries on the Communist Party,” a quasi-McCarthyist screed that claimed the CCP was the real “evil cult,” one that “destroyed traditional culture” and “oppose[d] the universe.” And it promoted any allegation of human rights abuses in China, including regular updates regarding accusations that the government was harvesting organs from thousands of Falun Gong prisoners. (While it is beyond dispute that China has forcibly removed organs from prisoners, it is not clear that Falun Gong believers have ever been singled out for this practice.)

While the newspaper was clearly aligned with Falun Gong’s interests, its senior executives worked to publicly minimize the connection. “The paper’s not owned by Falun Gong, it doesn’t speak for Falun Gong, it doesn’t represent Falun Gong,” Stephen Gregory, who in addition to being the publisher is a longtime Li follower, told an Associated Press reporter in 2007. “It does cover the persecution of Falun Gong in China.” Meanwhile, in online commentary, Li—whose connection to the paper was always kept vague—continued to emphasize the spiritual function of what he called “our media.” In 2009, he delivered an address in the Epoch Times New York newsroom, congratulating the staff for successfully raising awareness of his movement’s struggle and its worldview. He said that they’d had a “major impact in Fa-rectification.”

Staff rarely speak publicly about the newspaper’s affiliation with Falun Gong. Several current and past employees did not reply to my interview requests. Some who did expressed distrust of mainstream media. Those who agreed to speak, including people who worked alongside Klett, preferred to do so anonymously.

On pureinsight.org, a Falun Gong website, I found a testimonial about the experience of working at the Epoch Times, written by someone who referred to himself as a “disciple from New York, USA.” The anonymous writer, who said he began working at the paper in 2012, described waking up at 3 a.m. to distribute 5,000 newspapers across Manhattan, first on foot and later by bicycle. His manager would strap bundles of papers onto his back before he peddled away. Even in the middle of winter, when it was freezing cold and often raining, the writer said he was filled with great joy, knowing that he was on a noble mission.

He eventually moved up at the paper—to the sales department, to editorial, and finally to a digital-side role focused on boosting subscriptions. He confessed to having moments of doubt, wishing for more recognition of his work and questioning the wisdom of his superiors. But they always passed. “I see that in the coming years the amount of work will be daunting as the Epoch Times is expanding across the US and the world,” the disciple wrote. “However, I feel that Master has arranged the wind to be in our sails, and that he is guiding every step in both my and the whole media’s development. As long as I don’t impede Master, there shouldn’t be anything that we can’t do.”

Writing or editing for the Epoch Times became an extension of Fa-rectification, the cosmic mission of saving souls.

By the time Klett was hired, the paper was a purportedly objective outlet with an unconditional bias made obscure to outsiders. One way that bias manifested was in prohibitions on certain content. “Truth and Tradition” meant that reporters could not cover modern music or art, only the classics. Stories about the LGBTQ community were to be avoided—Gregory reportedly told the new digital team that it was a controversial topic that conflicted with the family-friendly position of the paper.

Besides joking about it with Jenna—she liked to say that they’d been hired by a weird cult—Klett didn’t think much about Falun Gong or how it shaped his job. It wasn’t his goal to empathize with the movement’s belief system, which, as far as he could tell, was at odds with his own. He just wanted to reach his weekly target of 100,000 clicks.

Klett achieved this convenient detachment through an intellectual sleight of hand. In college, he’d read postmodern theories by thinkers who seemed to drive a wedge between language and meaning—to insist that words had a multiplicity of possible interpretations that exceeded the intentions of any author or speaker. Klett, who in conversations with me made reference more than once to the French philosopher Jacques Derrida, imagined himself as a kind of postmodern information worker: He generated “content” the meaning and significance of which had nothing to do with him. It was a formal exercise, one that he was getting better at every day.

A contemporary of Klett’s preferred theorists was Paul de Man, a Belgian national who was a professor of literature at Yale. His controversial, yet influential, thesis held that a text was a paradox no one should seek to resolve; language always contained contradictions, and it was the task of the reader to identify them while resisting the impulse to privilege one interpretation over another. When it was revealed in the years after his death that, during World War II, de Man had written some 200 articles for several Nazi-controlled newspapers—and that some of what he’d published had been anti-Semitic—his acolytes were forced to reckon with his legacy. Some disavowed him. Others tried to redeem him with evidence of good behavior; they pointed out, for instance, that de Man sheltered Jewish friends in his apartment during the war. Derrida went one step further: On close reading, he argued, de Man’s writings revealed a subversive, anti-anti-Semitic interpretation.

For his longtime critics, the disclosure of de Man’s past was vindicating. By reveling in contradiction, they argued, de Man had adopted an essentially nihilistic mode of critique. As one writer put it, he was a “connoisseur of nothingness”—a phrase that could easily apply to Klett during his stint at the Epoch Times.

Still, there were moments that rattled Klett. On June 12, 2016, a gunman opened fire at the Pulse nightclub in Orlando, Florida, killing 49 people and wounding 53 others. The story broke over the weekend. When Klett arrived at work Monday morning, he noticed that none of the accounts of the incident on the Epoch Times’ website mentioned that Pulse was a gay club. He strategized how he could pitch a story to his editors that acknowledged the facts while bypassing the newspaper’s vague prohibition against covering LGBTQ issues.

That day he was working with an editor named Henry Bevington, a perpetually chipper Australian man with a wispy black beard who wore paisley button-down shirts. Bevington brought Klett tea each morning, pouring it from a red kettle. He was more visible in his allegiance to Falun Gong than some other staff; he once came to work dressed in the movement’s trademark yellow T-shirt after attending a demonstration to raise awareness about persecution in China. Klett realized Bevington might be wedded to the values that determined the paper’s coverage.

Klett pitched a story about the shooting that focused on a speech that Trump, who was still seeking the Republican nomination, had made in the aftermath. Trump split with other Republicans by expressing solidarity with the LGBTQ community. Klett figured that because Trump’s stance on other issues was conservative, the approach might work. Plus, stories Klett had written about Trump had generated a lot of clicks, including one about a Mexican restaurant owner who tripled her business after Trump brought her onstage at a rally. But Klett received a curt no.

Usually, he might have complained to Jenna about the incident and moved on. But he felt pained by the attack on the LGBTQ community, and angry that it hadn’t been acknowledged at his workplace. He sent Fakkert and Bevington an article from a left-leaning blog pointing out how some Republican responses to the shooting had erased the identities of the people targeted. According to Klett, Bevington approached his desk and, with a smile, told him that he didn’t understand the point of the article. “Some people don’t believe in that,” Bevington said, seeming to refer to homosexuality. “You can’t fault someone for not saying something.”

Klett excused himself, walked to the bathroom, and splashed cold water on his face. When he returned to his desk, he sat down and started writing an article about the Orlando shooting that didn’t include the word “gay.” It focused on how, in the wake of the tragedy, President Barack Obama hadn’t used the phrase “radical Islam.”

That words could have multiple, sometimes contradictory interpretations was an idea Klett had found fascinating in a theoretical context. It had been useful in his studies and personal writing. Now, though, it seemed as if he was being asked to use that idea to make real-world events seem uncertain, contested. In retrospect, it was a harbinger of what was to come.

IV.

By the time Trump became the Republican nominee, in the late summer of 2016, the digital team had morphed. Jenna had been laid off for failing to generate sufficient clicks; the reporter who covered crime had been let go, too. Klett, meanwhile, had been promoted. Now earning an extra $500 a month, he wrote his usual number of digital stories as well as the occasional feature for the print newspaper.

When Trump promoted the outrageous lie that Obama and Hillary Clinton were “founders” of ISIS, Klett wrote a story without critical evaluation; the fact of Trump’s comments, rather than their veracity, was what mattered. This seemed more or less in keeping with the Epoch Times’ professed commitment to unbiased coverage and its desire to ramp up page views—inflammatory comments by public figures drive clicks, after all. Other developments, however, made it hard to ignore that an unspoken enthusiasm for the Republican candidate had taken hold in the newsroom. There had been a palpable shift in the paper’s editorial direction, and it seemed to come straight from the top.

While other media outlets reported on Trump’s outlandish and incendiary Twitter behavior, Klett said that his editors discouraged him from covering it. After submitting a story comparing Trump’s and Clinton’s immigration policies, he received an email with feedback from Stephen Gregory; it was important, the publisher explained, to note that Trump was the only candidate addressing the fact that an “open border” allowed gangs, criminals, and terrorists to enter the country. Overall, Gregory said, Clinton’s policies would amplify the power of the executive branch and diminish that of Congress, continuing the legacy of Obama’s presidency.

In another instance, Klett was asked to read over a colleague’s story comparing Trump’s and Clinton’s economic policies. There was one line that caught his attention: “Trump seeks to revive American greatness with policies aimed at kick-starting economic growth.” Klett told his colleague that the word “greatness” was biased and a regurgitation of Trump’s campaign slogan. The colleague, according to Klett, said that Gregory had inserted the line.

Klett noticed that a number of journalists from the print side—mostly young men who practiced Falun Gong and had worked at the paper for a while—were becoming more brazen in their support of far-right ideas. One colleague shared a video by internet pundit Stefan Molyneux, whose YouTube channel promoted scientific racism and white nationalism. Echoing boilerplate language from the right-wing internet, staff said they didn’t necessarily believe everything they circulated in the office, but at least it was an alternative to the lies propagated by mainstream outlets. With blithe arrogance, most U.S. media used the cover of objectivity to conceal liberal bias. Truth tellers—like themselves, even like Molyneux—were pushing against this hegemony, courageously pursuing fair reporting and highlighting ideas that the corrupt media elite would not.

A number of journalists from the print side—mostly young men who practiced Falun Gong and had worked at the paper for a while—were becoming more brazen in their support of far-right ideas. 

Maybe it shouldn’t have been surprising, given its roots, that the Epoch Times would employ people suspicious of establishment forces, or that its socially conservative ethos would make it a natural mouthpiece for Trumpism. Nor, perhaps, should it have shocked anyone that the paper, created with the explicit goal of waging an information war, would thrive in a propaganda-rich election season rife with conspiracy theories. Still, given its affiliation with Falun Gong, the outfit was something of an unexpected player in the right-wing media ecosystem emboldened by Trump’s candidacy. Where its role made the most sense was with regard to China. The paper boosted Trump’s pledges to get tough on Beijing if he was elected. An article Klett wrote about the Trans-Pacific Partnership, which Trump wanted to leave and Clinton wanted to strengthen, was syndicated by Infowars.

Klett discussed with his parents the option of quitting. They told him that just because the work was difficult wasn’t a reason to leave, that the time had come for him to accept the reality of adult life, that it would show strength of character to persevere under challenging circumstances. He also discussed his dilemma with Martin, his roommate. At the time, Martin was using his law degree to represent landlords in the Bronx. Just as Klett disliked writing pro-Trump propaganda for a fringe newspaper, Martin didn’t want to evict families from their homes. That millennials had to do work at odds with their political values wasn’t their fault; it was a sign of a fundamental failure of “the system,” Martin insisted, proof of how neoliberal hegemony and late-stage capitalism destroyed the soul. A political revolution was necessary.

This made sense to Klett, and helped him justify going to work every day. He also found it difficult to quit the paper because of how nice everyone in the office was, how misaligned their personal conduct seemed with their political motivations. His editors were helpful, attentive, supportive. They often congratulated him on the work he was doing and rewarded him with longer-form assignments, sometimes even front-page features in the print paper. They knew that he didn’t necessarily share their views, but they were convinced of the basic goodness of their mission and, it seemed to Klett, assumed he’d eventually come around.

Perhaps that’s why, on September 15, 2016, Fakkert asked him to attend a speech Trump was giving to the Economic Club of New York at the Waldorf Astoria hotel. Klett arrived at 9:30 a.m., stoned, wearing a vest and a magenta shirt—Fakkert had told him to dress nicely. He met Valentin Schmid, a journalist from the print side. They were ushered to an upstairs press gallery where a few dozen journalists sat staring at their phones. The attendees in the ballroom were dressed in tuxedos and ball gowns—extravagant, Klett thought, for a lunch event. After taking their seats, the guests were served plates of chicken.

Mike Pence appeared on the ballroom’s stage, gave a brief address about economic prosperity, and then introduced Trump. The candidate spoke of his strong polling numbers in Florida, North Carolina, and Ohio, about jobs and manufacturing, immigration, the failures of the Obama administration, and, finally, the corporate tax cuts he was planning to roll out. Klett noticed that Schmid was the only journalist who clapped along with the crowd, prompting other reporters to look at him incredulously, which made Klett feel paranoid.

After the event, Schmid took Klett out for lunch at a bistro on 57th Street. Schmid, who was from Germany, wore polo shirts with upturned collars and had a lazy eye. He was among the coterie of young men on the print side who had taken a liking to Trump and his messaging. As they sat eating—Klett a burger, his colleague a steak—Schmid held forth about why Trump appealed to his libertarian sensibilities. To him, Trump was unafraid to speak the truth. The people who feared him most were those in the liberal mainstream media and political elites accustomed to pulling the strings of power in their own favor.

Klett had heard all this before—talk of absorbing bullshit from a broken system before seeing the light, recognizing who the real villains are. He knew that many on the print side were seekers, people who had been on tumultuous, sometimes strange personal journeys before finding Falun Gong and, through that, the Epoch Times. Some had lived in hippie communes. Others had partied as a way to distract themselves from their inner dissatisfaction. In a way, Klett thought, they were not unlike other people from his life: fellow loners in college, the queer community in Pennsylvania, the poetry freaks at the New School, the leftists he met in Brooklyn bars, his roommate. They all felt alienated from reality and wanted a radical change.

Schmid asked Klett about his own political ideology. Klett said he didn’t really have a coherent one, but that he had anarchist leanings. “Aha, so you want what I want,” Schmid replied, taking a bite of his steak. “I want to tear down the system, like you.”

V.

Around then, in September, a group of interns arrived at the Epoch Times. One afternoon, Klett walked into the kitchen to find one of the new arrivals busy on her laptop. She was tall, with straight black hair tied up in a bun; a single blue streak matched the color of her eyeshadow. Klett introduced himself. She looked up and, in a heavy accent, said her name was Gaia Cristofaro. She had just arrived from Italy and was interning with the newspaper’s design team. Klett said that he wrote about politics for the digital side. She said that she didn’t like politics. “Nobody does,” he replied.

Three days later, he again crossed paths with her in the kitchen and decided to sit down for a longer chat. Often he found conversations with people from the print side awkward. Not with Cristofaro. They spoke about art and music and literature. Both had strong opinions about Derrida and Franz Kafka. Both listened to the band Thee Silver Mt. Zion. Both admired the paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder. Cristofaro showed Klett some of the sketches she was working on for the design team. He was impressed. He found her captivating.

They started taking lunch breaks together. Cristofaro—who did not respond to multiple interview requests for this story—was 33 and an artist. She had grown up in Florence, right by the Duomo. She had been rebellious in her younger years, but it left her feeling discontented and lost. She came across one of Li’s books. She had been raised Catholic, and the strict morality and spiritual teleology of Falun Gong resonated with her, as did Li’s supposition that the modern world was degenerate. Cristofaro had since maintained a strict cultivation practice and given much of her spare time to the Falun Gong community. She had organized an art exhibition in Florence on behalf of the movement. And now she was in New York, ready to help in the service of hongfa, before one of the most unusual elections in U.S. history—one in which the candidate the Epoch Times had all but endorsed was turning the very notion of truth on its head.

At lunch one day, Klett noticed that Cristofaro had not touched any of her cucumber sushi. She had dark circles around her eyes, and her hands were shaking. Klett asked if everything was OK. Cristofaro apologized. She hadn’t got much rest, she said, since arriving in the city. Her work schedule—Monday through Friday, 6 a.m. to 7 p.m.—on top of exercise, meditation, and reading groups with other Epoch Times employees, meant that she had almost no time to herself. Moreover, the room where she was staying in Jersey City, which had been assigned to her by the newspaper, was in the same building where other staff lived. It was more like a big dorm than an apartment complex, she said. She found it uncomfortable and dirty. There was no privacy. She couldn’t sleep.

To make matters worse, Cristofaro had initially been promised that she’d contribute illustrations to the paper, but her superiors now insisted that she work on formatting and other menial tasks. Cristofaro put her head in her hands. “What am I doing here?” she asked Klett.

Cristofaro and Klett began to meet outside work hours. One Sunday, she told him that she was in the United States on a vacation visa and that she wasn’t being paid for her time at the paper. According to Klett, Cristofaro said that uncompensated work was common among Falun Gong practitioners—a claim echoed in news reports and first-person accounts by former acolytes that I read during my reporting. Believers could volunteer at one of the many organizations around the world associated with the movement: an Epoch Times bureau, New Tang Dynasty Television, a magazine called Taste of Life, or the Shen Yun dance company, which is based at the Dragon Springs compound and infamous in New York City for its ubiquitous advertising. Cristofaro had done other internships and enjoyed them, but so far this one had been mostly unpleasant.

Klett wanted to help but didn’t know how. His colleagues on the digital team teased him that he was moving over to the dark side. “Just watch out, or she’ll make you join that group,” one told him. On a Friday afternoon, as Klett was getting ready to clock out, Fakkert asked for a minute of his time. He said that Klett was spending too much time exchanging messages with Cristofaro on the office’s internal chat system. They needed to focus more on their work.

After the encounter, Klett asked Cristofaro who else knew about their friendship. She said that her immediate boss and maybe one other colleague did. Later she sent Klett a message. “Now that I think about it better,” it read, an editor “told me not talk with you too much, he said that very casually.”

“Ciao have a good weekend,” Cristofaro said, “and forget about that.”

Cristofaro had been raised Catholic, and the strict morality and spiritual teleology of Falun Gong resonated with her, as did Li’s supposition that the modern world was degenerate.

Klett decided to keep his distance from Cristofaro in the office. Outside work, however, they saw each other more often. One day in October, they went to Radio City Music Hall to see the Icelandic group Sigur Rós perform. They arrived at the venue early and took their seats. When the music started—ethereal, ambient—they kissed for the first time. Over the next two weeks, they hung out in bars in the West Village after work. As they talked about their lives, or when they kissed by the station where Cristofaro caught a train back to Jersey City, she would remind Klett that she was leaving in November, when her visa expired.

Everything was hurtling toward November. When he wasn’t with Cristofaro or thinking about her, Klett was ensconced in political news and polls. Every time Trump made a shocking new claim—the system is rigged, Hillary is sick, what about her emails?—Klett would observe as the mainstream media reacted with disbelief. This is not America, he heard liberal pundits say. Wasn’t it, though? Plenty of people reading his articles were Americans who liked Trump. It seemed to Klett that divisions ran so deep in America’s collective psyche that one side could no longer see the other.

Living and working amid so much bifurcation was exhausting. Klett was looking forward to the time after the election when things would return to normal. But then, in the last week of October, something changed in the office. Without warning, Fakkert began ignoring the digital team, not hearing their pitches or assigning them articles. They went from pumping out several pieces a day to more or less sitting idle at their desks.

On October 27, the HR manager summoned them into a small office. He told the group sympathetically that digital journalism was more difficult to break into than the paper had first imagined. Other publications were laying people off. The Epoch Times simply couldn’t afford to keep the team on any longer. Their employment was being terminated.

Based on the paper’s web traffic, this didn’t immediately add up to Klett. What’s more, the election was only a week away—it seemed absurd that the paper would get rid of him, a politics reporter. Klett wondered if there was another reason the team was being let go, one he couldn’t see.

He walked out of the room in a daze. Standing there was Fakkert, who took him by the shoulders and cried. Klett started to laugh.

The election was only a week away—it seemed absurd that the paper would get rid of him, a politics reporter.

The next week passed in a blur. Klett watched the news and checked the latest polls, now without purpose. He messaged Cristofaro, trying to arrange times to see her, but she was always caught up with work or cultivation. Finally, in early November, Klett received a text inviting him to dinner in Chelsea. It was her going-away party. She was leaving the next day.

When Klett arrived at the restaurant, Cristofaro was already there with a few other Epoch Times employees and a man she had befriended in a park while doing Falun Gong exercises. They ate pizza and then got gelato. The man from the park did most of the talking, spouting conspiracy theories that he said he’d learned about from Infowars.

Eventually, Klett and Cristofaro walked to the Strand bookstore, then to a movie. Afterward, Klett accompanied Cristofaro to her train. They kissed. He asked if she would consider coming back to his place, to spend one night together. She said no. She told Klett that he wasn’t “virtuous” enough. Cristofaro had hinted before that it was somehow immoral for them to spend time together, that it contravened a code of behavior expected of her by Falun Gong. If Klett wasn’t a practitioner, they couldn’t be together.

Three nights later, with Cristofaro back in Florence, Klett opened a bottle of wine with Martin and sat down to watch the election results. Despite everything he’d seen as a politics reporter—from the shrewd manipulation of content at the Epoch Times, to the devious fearmongering at Breitbart News, to the full-blown conspiracy peddling of Infowars—he still believed that Clinton would win. As he watched the results trickle in, he realized his error. Martin opened another bottle of wine. “Goddammit, I don’t want to have to see Donald Trump’s fucking face for the next four years,” he said.

Klett was silent. He told himself this wasn’t his fault—he was just a lowly worker at an obscure newspaper that had a curious affiliation with the rise of Trumpism. He felt a familiar sensation, one he’d had when he worried about his family’s German ancestry and saw himself holding the knife used to kill Nicole Brown Simpson. Reality was wobbling. But whether Klett was ready to admit it or not, this time his imagination wasn’t to blame. By writing the news, he had become part of the story.

VI.

Klett was unemployed until the following June, when he was hired by the International Business Times. Again he was a digital content writer, required to generate as many articles as possible to get as many clicks as possible. Coincidentally, IBT had been linked to a controversial religious sect known as the Community, a fact that Klett wasn’t aware of when he was hired. In a corner cubicle near Wall Street, he trawled Twitter looking for trending news he could repackage for the website—a celebrity feud, Martin Shkreli controversies, Trump’s Twitter meltdowns. His performance was measured by software called Chartbeat, which his editor monitored assiduously. Klett told me that he was fired after six weeks for not meeting his click quota.

He found a job writing copy for a vaping company. At the time, he was also working on his second poetry collection, The Book of Gaia. After saying goodbye to Cristofaro in early November, Klett thought they’d never speak again. But she’d messaged him the next morning—a cell phone video shot from her plane as it took off, Manhattan receding into the clouds. They’d been texting and making plans to see one another ever since. After a few months, Klett had accrued enough miles on his credit card for a trip to Italy. In September 2017, he boarded a plane, shaking and giddy. It was his first time traveling to Europe.

Klett stayed with Cristofaro in her mother’s apartment in Florence. They took long walks, and Cristofaro was knowledgeable about the city’s heritage. She was also angry at what she perceived as intruding vulgarities—commercialism, tourism, even contemporary art. One afternoon, as they passed the Duomo, Cristofaro stopped in front of the cathedral and wept. It was offensive, she said, that people would simply gawk and take pictures of the building without understanding its context.

Klett learned about Cristofaro’s daily Falun Gong cultivation practice. She meditated at six-hour intervals—dawn, midday, dusk, midnight. He would sit with her and hold her hands while she did it. The thought occurred to him that if he started practicing Falun Gong, their relationship would deepen. “Why don’t you just do it?” a friend asked him. “You could have it all!”

It wasn’t an option, though. Klett didn’t want cosmic answers for everything in his life, and he didn’t like cultivation. He had become more politically active since leaving the Epoch Times. He now volunteered with the Democratic Socialists of America. There was no way he could square his political beliefs or his identity with Falun Gong, even for the person he loved.

Klett worked up the courage to ask Cristofaro how she reconciled the supposed morality of Falun Gong with what she said had happened in New York, the way she’d been exploited at work. She said that she felt like some people in the newspaper office had been corrupted by America, that they had lost their way and were no longer engaging dutifully with Li’s teachings. Klett suggested that maybe Falun Gong had lost its way. Cristofaro became angry and, through tears, told him that as a non-practitioner he had no idea what he was talking about.

Despite the disagreement with Cristofaro, after arriving back in New York, Klett began planning for a return to Italy. He saved money and enrolled in an English-teaching course, hoping to find work in Florence. But then, just a week before Klett was set to fly back in February 2018, Cristofaro told him that she’d changed her mind; she was seeing someone else. It was best if he didn’t come.

In a corner cubicle near Wall Street, Klett trawled Twitter looking for trending news he could repackage for the website—a celebrity feud, Martin Shkreli controversies, Trump’s Twitter meltdowns.

Klett retreated into himself. He worked from home, writing for the vaping company. In his spare time, he read about the Mueller investigation. He began imagining himself back at the Epoch Times as a bot, mindlessly churning out words that became tangled in algorithms that pushed disinformation. When Klett published a blog post on Medium about his experience at the newspaper, he expected it to go mostly unnoticed.

In the spring of 2019, however, he received a message from an investigative journalist at NBC who wanted to talk to him about what he’d written. Klett agreed to meet at the NBC office in Manhattan. By coincidence, the appointment was scheduled on World Falun Gong Day. When Klett got off the train at 47th Street, he found himself surrounded by practitioners marching in celebration. Among the sea of yellow shirts, Klett thought he spotted Valentin Schmid. He lowered his head and made his way into the halls of NBC.

A few months later, NBC News published an online exposé about the Epoch Times’ rise as a right-wing media outlet. It revealed the paper’s massive spending on pro-Trump Facebook ads. It also identified employees who had splintered off to create hugely popular YouTube channels, including Edge of Wonder, which had hundreds of thousands of subscribers. The channel’s upbeat hosts pushed the QAnon conspiracy theory with a smile. Klett recognized them from the paper’s print side.

The NBC investigation wasn’t the first to describe the relationship between the Epoch Times and far-right forces. In 2017, a journalist went undercover at the paper’s Berlin office and found strong support for Alternative for Germany, the country’s nationalist party. The next fall, BuzzFeed News detailed how the paper had pushed the debunked “Spygate” conspiracy theory, which proposed that the Obama administration had infiltrated Trump’s presidential campaign. Then, in May 2019, the progressive nonprofit Acronym identified the Epoch Times as one of the biggest spenders on pro-Trump video content on Facebook.

The NBC investigation went further, emphasizing the connection between the Epoch Times’ political bias and Falun Gong’s apocalyptic worldview. “Former practitioners of Falun Gong told NBC News that believers think the world is headed toward a judgment day, where those labeled ‘communists’ will be sent to a kind of hell, and those sympathetic to the spiritual community will be spared,” the article read. “Trump is viewed as a key ally in the anti-communist fight.”

Stephen Gregory published an op-ed in The Wall Street Journal describing NBC’s reporting as “agenda-driven journalism” that was “in line with Beijing’s propaganda.” He claimed that the Facebook ads in question weren’t pro-Trump—they merely spotlighted the newspaper’s work in order to boost subscriptions. “Because we’ve taken the lead in reporting on Spygate … these ads often feature articles reporting on President Trump. That doesn’t make them ads for Mr. Trump,” Gregory wrote. He denied any direct connection between Falun Gong and his newspaper. Klett noticed that some of his former colleagues took to social media to say that no one accused The New York Times of being a Jewish newspaper despite the many Jewish people on staff. (An Epoch Times contributor made similar comments to me in an interview.)

The newspaper started running online ads under the auspices of entities with names like Pure American Journalism and Best News. This went against Facebook’s transparency rules, and in August 2019, the platform banned the Epoch Times from advertising. The paper found other avenues to spread its message. A website called the BL, or Beauty of Life, created a network of phony Facebook profiles, including some with computer-generated faces, which were used to amplify the reach of pro-Trump content. Gregory denied ties between the BL and the Epoch Times, but in December 2019, Facebook told the technology news website The Verge that BL executives “were active admins on Epoch Media Group Pages as recently as this morning when their accounts were deactivated and the BL was removed.”

Meanwhile, at least one news report suggested that the paper’s digital media strategy was influenced by Chris Kitze, an entrepreneur who a decade prior essentially invented the idea of using conspiracy theories to generate viral content with his website BeforeItsNews.com. Kitze happened to be a longtime Falun Gong practitioner.

VII.

There is a slogan inscribed on the main gate of the western wall of Zhongnanhai: “Long live the great Chinese Communist Party.” After 10,000 Falun Gong devotees gathered in protest next to the compound in 1999, China scholars and observers had to wonder: Where did this spiritual movement, which claimed millions of followers in a country that demanded faith only in the ruling party, come from?

One explanation, according to some historians, was that Falun Gong was best understood as a modern incarnation of the White Lotus society, a secretive Buddhist sect that emerged within Chinese peasant communities in the 14th century. Its adherents, said to practice esoteric rites under the cover of night, were considered religious zealots who prophesied the imminent arrival of a messianic bodhisattva who would usher in an era of universal enlightenment. When news of the White Lotus reached the ruling class, the group was deemed a cult. Its rituals were banned, forcing the White Lotus underground. Practicing became a political act, radicalizing segments of society that went on to participate in the bloody rebellions that brought down the Yuan Empire. Over subsequent centuries, fearing the populist power of the spiritual movement, imperial forces responded to reports of White Lotus activities with claims that the group was evil and dangerous.

The hypothesis offered by some of the first scholars of Falun Gong, and repeated by Western media, was that the conflict between Li’s followers and the CCP was, in essence, another cycle in the long history of state versus cult. When I began reporting this story, that struck me as a good framework for understanding Falun Gong and its motivations. But then I found the work of Barend ter Haar, a Dutch professor of Chinese history and religion. He believes that it’s possible much of the primary documentation about the White Lotus—police inquiries, court proceedings, reports, even individual confessions—was fabricated by ruling forces. In other words, the White Lotus might be a myth used by the elite to strike fear into the public and, when convenient, to inculpate political dissidents in a nefarious cabal. It might be fake news.

While reading ter Haar’s research, I felt something akin to the sensation Klett had described, of reality wobbling. It wasn’t the first time a factual bedrock seemed to fall away in my reporting. Researching Falun Gong and the Epoch Times was like holding a sieve. I would establish what I thought was true, only to find enough contradictory information to raise a doubt in my mind. Facts were hard to distinguish from ideological constructions. The layers of spin and myth seemed endless.

I wanted a concrete truth, however tangential or unlikely, to round out my reporting. On a warm Friday evening in late June 2020, Klett pulled up outside my apartment building in a dark blue Toyota Sienna. I got in the back, pushing aside empty cardboard boxes and coffee cups. Klett introduced me to his girlfriend, Arielle, who was sitting up front. He apologized for being late; he had just clocked out at his job delivering pharmaceuticals around Brooklyn, which he’d picked up at the start of the year to earn some extra money. It had been deemed essential work as COVID-19 rippled through the neighborhoods he served.

The pandemic had been a boon for the Epoch Times. When the coronavirus first hit, the paper ratcheted up its anti-China content. It was among the first outlets to spread the story that COVID-19—“the CCP virus,” as the paper dubbed it—was bioengineered and released from a Wuhan research laboratory. In April, the paper unveiled a 54-minute documentary on a subsidiary YouTube channel, “exposing” the “origin of the CCP virus.” It also produced an eight-page special edition entitled “How the Chinese Communist Party Endangered the World” and sent it unsolicited to tens of thousands of mailboxes in the United States, Canada, and Australia. On July 4, it would publish an article promoting the practice of Falun Gong as an antidote to pandemic-induced stress.

Klett and I had been speaking on the phone at night, nailing down the details of his story. He seemed less interested in the Epoch Times’ pandemic propaganda or the impact of his work at the newspaper than in whether there really was a compound in New Jersey where Falun Gong housed overworked acolytes. I had found an online testimonial that described “dorms” provided for practitioners working at the Epoch Times. I asked Klett if he had any way of determining the location of Cristofaro’s old apartment. He had a vague sense that it was near Journal Square in Jersey City. He also had an idea: What if we waited outside the newspaper’s office in Manhattan and, when an employee came out, followed them home?

That’s what we set out to do that Friday. After crossing the Brooklyn Bridge into Manhattan, we approached an exit to Chinatown. Klett pointed to a large billboard featuring a woman leaping into the air, her legs in a split and parallel to the ground, white skirt fanned out against a bright shade of emerald. The copy read, “2020 Shen Yun. 5,000 years of civilization reborn.”

“It’s like I can’t escape them,” Klett said.

We identified two young employees—both wearing cream-colored chinos and blue shirts, with Epoch Times lanyards around their necks—emerging from the newspaper’s office on 28th Street and 7th Avenue. We followed them to New Jersey. In Hoboken, we saw them enter a three-story apartment building. I checked the names on the mailboxes. Nothing stood out. A cardboard box left outside held a dozen secondhand books about Frank Sinatra, including His Way, an unauthorized biography that claimed to go “behind the iconic myth of Sinatra to expose the well-hidden side of one of the most celebrated—and elusive—public figures of our time.”

If a compound for Epoch Times staff existed, this wasn’t it.

As we drove back to Brooklyn, fireworks exploded overhead. There had been a relentless barrage for the past few weeks, colorful explosions beginning each night at sundown and not letting up until early morning. Some New Yorkers were frustrated by the disturbances, while others speculated about their origin in increasingly conspiratorial terms.

Arielle said that she had read—on Twitter somewhere—that there was a man in a white SUV driving around neighborhoods handing out fireworks to young kids. Setting them off was intended to cause chaos and push civilians into a heightened state of alert to prepare for an upcoming military takeover. I stayed silent. Klett laughed.

“At this point,” he said. “I’d believe anything.”

The Epoch Times was among the first outlets to spread the story that COVID-19—“the CCP virus,” as the paper dubbed it—was bioengineered and released from a Wuhan research laboratory.

It’s hard not to empathize—at least to some degree—with Klett’s credulity. We live in a world where a kaleidoscope of information sources compete for our attention, making truth seem relative and waking life feel like an epistemic free-for-all. Journalists have unwittingly promoted or generated propaganda. In September, reports emerged that the Russian troll farm known as the Internet Research Agency had hired U.S. reporters to contribute content to a site targeting left-leaning voters with misinformation.  

Trust is eroding, ambivalence is soaring, and, for many people, seeking is becoming a steady state of being. For some, like Klett, detachment—from responsibility, from consequences, from facts—is a defense mechanism. But what does that mean for questions of rightness and moral conviction? Often they are sidelined by apathy and languish, unanswered.

The ultimate beneficiaries are ideologues and megalomaniacs willing to manipulate people’s grasp on reality, along with the opportunists who glom onto their rise. The Epoch Times is an example of the latter: It has capitalized on Trumpism, hoping to promote its versions of truth and tradition and to tip the balance of power in Falun Gong’s information war with Beijing. In a sense, the paper is succeeding. In June, the State Department released a statement designating the U.S. operations of China Central Television, China News Service, the People’s Daily, and the Global Times “foreign missions.” It continued, “While Western media are beholden to the truth, PRC media are beholden to the Chinese Communist Party.” Meanwhile, the Epoch Times was cozier than ever with the Trump administration. Its reporters received special treatment in press briefings, alongside alternative outlets like Gateway Pundit and One America News. In Falun Gong’s decades-long quest for Fa-rectification, there is arguably no more resounding success than having the attention of the White House.

By the end of the summer, a paywall ad promised that, for $77 a year, the Epoch Times’ online subscribers would “get real news other outlets don’t report” from “one of the few media that report factually on President Donald Trump.” As of this writing, the paper routinely mixes pro-Trump messages with anti-China ones. Its daily email newsletter has implied more than once that Democratic presidential nominee Joe Biden might be in league with the CCP for his family’s own business interests. Trump, meanwhile, is portrayed as committed to protecting America from China’s influence.

Many editions of the newsletter feature glowing quotes from subscribers in praise of the outlet’s mission and values. After witnessing “the contempt for America and its people [that] oozes from mainstream news sources,” one woman says, the Epoch Times “restored my faith in journalism.” Another quote describes the newspaper as “the bible of journalism.”

“Thank God for the TET,” it concludes, “providing truth in a world blinded by fake news.”


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Do You Hear the People Sing?

Do You Hear The
People Sing?


Brutality and
resistance on the
front lines of
Hong Kong’s battle
for democracy.

The Atavist Magazine, No. 105


Lauren Hilgers lived in Shanghai for six years. Her articles have appeared in Harper’s, Wired, Bloomberg Businessweek, The New Yorker, and The New York Times Magazine. Her book Patriot Number One was a New York Times notable book in 2018.

Editor: Jonah Ogles
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Adam Przybyl
Illustrator: Mike McQuade

Published in July 2020

By the time Grace¹ arrived at Hong Kong Polytechnic University in November 2019, she had forgotten the date and the day of the week—the longer she spent protesting, the more time seemed to fray around the edges. She was battle hardened and exhausted. Hong Kong’s police were employing increasingly authoritarian tactics against pro-democracy protesters like her. She had become accustomed to the smell of tear gas and the sound of canisters squealing as they arced overhead. She knew the feel of protective gear on her face and the heft of flame-resistant gloves on her hands. Compared with those things, the date didn’t matter.

Grace is in her early twenties, a political-science student. She first joined the protests, hopeful and bold, in June 2019, during the annual candlelight vigil that takes place in Hong Kong on the anniversary of the Tiananmen Square massacre. She was intoxicated by the idea of the movement, the feeling of bodies united together in a cause. A swelling in the chest, a sense of hope and desperation—she had never experienced anything like it.

Months of sustained protest followed, and Hong Kong was haunted by scenes of violence in the streets, at the airport, and on the MTR (the city’s metro). Protesters initially had set out to derail an extradition bill that would allow the government to transport accused criminals to mainland China, but as law enforcement cracked down and videos of brutality spread, the movement’s focus shifted to ending police violence and demanding that all Hong Kongers be able to vote for the city’s highest-ranking officials. Despite those progressive goals, there was an end-of-days feeling to the protests. A disquieting thought hung in the back of Grace’s mind: Hong Kong was dying, and she was helping it make one last stand.

Huge marches were followed by smaller actions. Protesters broke up into leaderless pods. Years of arrests and kidnappings had made putting anyone in charge too risky. Protesters developed a strategy, embodied in the slogan “be water”—assemble for an instant, then drain through the surrounding streets—allowing them to clash with police and avoid arrest. It was inevitable, in retrospect, that the strategy would sometimes fail. That the water would pool and become trapped.

PolyU was a hive of activity when Grace arrived on what turned out to be November 14. Protesters had occupied the school and were using it as a base of operations. PolyU students who had joined the demonstrations prepared meals and set up a supply room full of clothes, gas masks, and first-aid materials. They put sleeping mats in the gym. Older protesters took younger ones under their wing. Some demonstrators set up lookouts on the roofs of school buildings, arming themselves with bows and arrows. In the student-government headquarters, a group gathered to discuss an action intended to stymie nearby traffic, bringing a busy part of Hong Kong to a standstill.

Over the previous five months, Grace had become an efficient, unflappable protester—a far cry from the person she had been before, someone unpolitical and naive. “I was just a normal girl in Hong Kong,” she said of her life before the movement. At PolyU, she knew how to keep calm, proceed from task to task, ready herself to face the police.

Looking back, she can’t remember the exact moment when law enforcement reached the campus—she only knows that the atmosphere changed. The bustle of preparation turned to confrontation and then panic. A protester watched from a rooftop as armored vehicles lined up below. As an opening salvo, police in SWAT gear shot canisters of tear gas into the building where the protester was perched. “I didn’t have any mask. I didn’t have anything on me,” the protester later said. “From that moment, I just thought, Oh God, they want us all to die.”

Hong Kong was not a democracy, but citizens held on dearly to the idea that it was at least autonomous.

A normal Hong Kong girl, according to Grace and other protesters, is a student who wears a uniform, works hard, and occasionally goes out to buy bubble tea with her friends. “In Hong Kong, children are scared of the sun,” a protester who goes by the alias V told me, only half joking. “They don’t like walking, and they don’t like running.” They study. They go to school. They come home. They don’t spend much time thinking about politics.

That was Grace growing up. She was born too late to remember a time when Hong Kong wasn’t part of the People’s Republic of China. The handover happened in 1997, after more than a decade of negotiations between Great Britain and the PRC. The new constitution, called the Basic Law, established the policy of “one country, two systems”—Hong Kong could govern itself for 50 years, during which Mainland China’s laws would not extend to the city. Still, the PRC held sway. The Basic Law, for instance, promised freedom of assembly and freedom of speech, but it gave the National People’s Congress in Beijing the power to interpret those rights. Hong Kong was not a democracy, but citizens held on dearly to the idea that it was at least autonomous.

During Grace’s childhood, Hong Kong had an independent judiciary and a freewheeling economy, with few of the controls that limited capital flows in the mainland. And as China’s economy gradually opened up, it offered substantial opportunities for Hong Kong’s elites, whom Beijing actively courted. In Hong Kong, business and governance are directly connected. Only half the seats in the city’s governing body, the Legislative Council (or LegCo), are elected by the people. The other half are reserved for so-called functional constituencies, industry-based voting blocs that effectively allow corporations to shape policy. As the businesses that formed those constituencies cozied up to mainland China, their interests aligned more and more with Beijing’s.

In 2003, a proposed national-security law that would have limited free speech and introduced the crimes of subversion, secession, and sedition—all of which are invoked to punish dissidents in the mainland—was scrapped after 500,000 people took to the streets in protest. (Organizers estimated the crowd at that size; police put the number at 350,000.) In 2010, people demonstrated again, calling for universal suffrage and protesting the arrest of Liu Xiaobo, a writer and activist from the mainland.

Grace, still in grade school at the time, was only vaguely aware of these events. She knew that her parents voted for pro-democracy candidates in LegCo elections, and she knew about the annual Tiananmen vigil, where people wearing white—a mourning color—lit candles and sang songs. Her perspective began to change in 2012, when the city’s National Education Services Center moved to instate a pro-China “moral and national education” curriculum in schools. Pamphlets promoting the curriculum were distributed throughout the city, emphasizing the need to build a national identity and criticizing multiparty systems for causing “malignant party struggle” in the United States and elsewhere. “We will never be independent,” the head of the National Education Services Center told CNN, “so we should learn to think the same way as China.”

That July, some 90,000 people, many of them students Grace’s age, took to the streets to protest what they saw as a brainwashing effort. (Police again put the turnout much lower, at around 32,000.) There was a hunger strike and an occupation of legislative offices. Grace didn’t join the demonstrations—her parents opposed them—but then the pro-China headmaster at her school instructed a group of students to circulate a petition in favor of the new education regime. Her peers asked Grace to add her name. “They weren’t mean about it,” she said. “They just wanted to get the signatures as fast as possible so they could get it over with.”

The petition prompted Grace to think about the ideas raised by the new curriculum and about her own cultural identity. Hong Kong was not mainland China, and she was not mainland Chinese. She was a Hong Konger. She found it annoying that the headmaster had foisted the petition on students. Grace refused to sign. It was the beginning of her political awakening.

She wasn’t alone. Across Hong Kong, there were teenagers who increasingly spent time estimating the value of the freedoms they enjoyed and guessing at Beijing’s intentions. Among them was V, an aspiring musician, whose sister also wanted to fight for democracy. Terra was another, a science student at Hong Kong Chinese University with an excellent GPA. Yet another, Jack, took cues from famous resistance leaders, reading Malcolm X and Frantz Fanon. All these young people would eventually wind up at PolyU when protesters occupied it. Like Grace, they later shared their stories with me.

First, though, came the Umbrella Revolution.

Pro-democracy legislators and activists staged a sit-in. They were arrested one by one, singing “Do You Hear the People Sing?” from the musical Les Misérables.

In 2014, Beijing proposed changes to how Hong Kong chose its most powerful official, the chief executive. Traditionally, the chief executive had been selected by a committee of electors, many of them loyal to Beijing. China’s new plan would allow Hong Kongers themselves to vote for their leader—so long as Beijing approved the candidates.

Thousands of citizens, led primarily by students, mounted a resistance. Grace joined a student strike, boycotting her classes. Other young people marched in front of then chief executive Leung Chun-ying’s home and outside the legislative building, where LegCo was required to approve China’s plan for it to go into effect. They erected tents along a stretch of highway next to the building and built a camp, a progressive community where art projects were scattered among supply caches and sleeping bags. Protesters set up barriers, distributed protective goggles, and organized first-aid teams. They established supply lines so they wouldn’t have to leave their positions; they could maintain the pressure day and night. There was even a study tent where students could go to keep up with their schoolwork.

Police in Hong Kong had dealt with large-scale protests for decades, but their response in 2014 was uncommonly aggressive. Hundreds of demonstrators were arrested. The police used tear gas for the first time since 2005, when they launched it into crowds protesting a World Trade Organization meeting. Law enforcement threw 87 canisters at the LegCo protesters, who carried umbrellas to shield themselves. Nineteen days into the 79-day protest, a TV news crew caught seven plainclothes police officers beating a protester named Ken Tsang on video and broadcast the footage to the city. Many Hong Kongers were outraged.

Despite police violence, the pro-democracy movement intended to remain peaceful. Johnson Yeung, a former leader of Hong Kong’s Federation of Students, an organization that represents student unions at Hong Kong’s universities, told me that protesters wanted to believe that their adversaries were rational actors. The thought was, as Yeung explained it, “If you provide some room for an authoritarian regime to coexist with you, then they will give you some allowances.”

As the protests stretched on, Grace became more and more interested in what was happening. Her father was moving in the opposite direction. “My dad thinks Hong Kong is free enough,” she said. He considered the protests disruptive. There were clashes with police in a residential neighborhood called Mong Kok. Traffic in the city often ground to a halt. Grace’s father didn’t see the ragtag beauty in the protest camp. “My dad wants a stable society and doesn’t want a ruin in the place where he lives,” Grace said.

The protests ended in December 2014 when a court ordered the camp outside LegCo cleared. Protesters dispersed largely without incident; by the time police showed up, many people had already left. Still, approximately 200 pro-democracy legislators and activists staged a sit-in. They were arrested one by one, singing “Do You Hear the People Sing?” from the musical Les Misérables.

The following June, the legislature voted against Beijing’s revised election plan. But it was a hollow victory—no other reforms were put forward, which meant that the chief executive would continue to be selected by committee.

Following the protest, the situation in Hong Kong worsened. In mainland China, a crackdown on lawyers and dissidents was underway, and Beijing’s harder line was increasingly felt in the city. Late in 2015, five Hong Kong booksellers who stocked books banned by Beijing were kidnapped and taken to mainland China; they subsequently resurfaced in videos admitting to crimes like “illegal book trading.” One of the accused confessed to involvement in a fatal drunk-driving incident. He was eventually convicted of “providing intelligence overseas.” (Since then, only one of the booksellers has been released; he fled to Taiwan.)

In the 2016 LegCo elections, six candidates were disqualified by Hong Kong’s pro-Beijing leaders for expressing support for the city’s independence. After the election, an additional six legislators were expelled from LegCo for the way they took the oath of office. Some coughed at key moments. Some mispronounced words—“People’s Republic of China” sounded more like “People’s Refucking of Jeena.” (The oath is recited in English.) Others shouted pro-democracy slogans, and one person spoke the words extremely slowly.

The following year, three of the Umbrella Revolution’s most vocal leaders were sentenced to several months in prison for their roles in the movement. Having a criminal record would prevent them from running for political office for five years.

By the time protests reignited in 2019, many young people felt that their strategy needed to change. “Beijing is writing the rules,” Yeung said. “It is hard to outcompete an opponent who is writing and breaking the rules whenever they want.” A consensus emerged that pacifism was not the only answer. “Through violence you recognize your own power,” said Jack. “You can stand up and oppose the government.” He considered Beijing a colonizer—and he was determined to fight back.

Grace didn’t want to go to her first demonstration alone. Her boyfriend, whom she met online before the protests started, wasn’t interested. While he supported the movement, he preferred to stay off the front lines. (He didn’t want to speak with me for this story.) Her older sister would join the protests, but not until later. Most of her friends were focused on their studies. They “didn’t have similar goals,” Grace said. “They would end up being soft protesters, rather than going to the front line.” Meanwhile, her father detested the protest movement more than ever; he thought Grace had been brainwashed by outside forces.

Grace had always considered herself an independent and self-sufficient person, but she worried about crowds and the potential for violence. So she called a friend, and on June 4 they made their way to the annual Tiananmen Square vigil in Hong Kong’s Victoria Park.

The 2019 memorial was charged. That February, Hong Kong’s government had proposed the extradition bill, the piece of legislation that would make it legal for people who were wanted for crimes in China—Hong Kongers such as the booksellers—to be extradited to the mainland. Protesters had been active ever since. On the daily news, Grace had watched the pro-democracy crowds grow. She was in university by then, and studying revolutionary movements in her classes. She watched the movie version of Les Mis over and over.

At the vigil, she lit a candle and kept close by her friend. She was awed by the crowd and the people around her. “I felt I was in union, that we all had the same beliefs and thoughts,” she said. “I could feel hope and love from the crowd.” Grace knew she would be back. Five days later, she headed out again.

The second protest Grace attended drew nearly a million people, according to organizers. (Police put the number at around 240,000.) Grace was still nervous, so she again went with her friend. A sea of people wearing white and holding signs packed Hong Kong’s roads. Grace and her friend left the protest before nightfall, when law enforcement moved in. The police clashed with the remaining protesters on the road outside LegCo.

Grace watched on television as protesters toppled traffic barriers and the police responded with pepper spray. She was home safe, but she didn’t want to be, not anymore. She decided to join the next protest, scheduled for June 12, in a more official capacity.

Hong Kong protesters communicated with one another on the messaging service Telegram and a website called LIHKG. The latter, a threaded discussion forum similar to Reddit, restricts connections to Hong Kong ISPs, which made it more difficult for outsiders to infiltrate the movement. Both allow users to remain anonymous.

Protesters took care to protect their identities. “I would not use my real phone,” Jack said. Like many, he used burners so the police couldn’t track him. Whenever possible, he didn’t use a phone at all. “People prefer to meet in private spaces face-to-face and not leave any record,” he said. Online, people rarely shared personal information, only what was necessary to prove they weren’t police: a snapshot of an ID or a staff card indicating where they worked—proof, presumably, that they weren’t law enforcement. The images often remained available for only a short time.

People used digital platforms to organize into teams—protest cells tasked with performing a singular function. A team might run supplies, provide first aid, clean up after protests, or protect the walls of Post-it notes that had popped up all over the city, filled with messages of support for the movement. Everything was fluid. Teams might decide to change function mid-protest or plan their own actions, apart from the big events.

Grace answered a call on Telegram to join a supply team. She would help gather masks, helmets, water, and umbrellas—whatever protesters needed to protect themselves—and distribute them at the planned action on June 12. Grace arrived at a safe house the day before the protest. There were students and parents, wealthy people and workers. Veteran demonstrators taught her how to use gas masks and to protect fellow protesters. When returning to the safe house, for instance, she shouldn’t take a direct route, and she should never follow the same path twice. Some demonstrators changed clothes several times during a protest, to throw off anyone who might be following them.

The next day, more than 40,000 people gathered outside LegCo to protest the reading of the controversial extradition bill, the first step to its passage. Grace ran into the crowd, dropping off water and first-aid supplies. The reading was canceled, and a few hours later the police rushed the crowd. Grace fled. It was the first time she’d heard the smack of rubber bullets, the pop and whistle of tear-gas canisters. “I saw the movement of the crowd and grabbed my teammate’s hand,” she says. “We didn’t know where it would be safe to go.”

Some of Grace’s team wanted to continue ferrying supplies; others ran toward the confrontation with police. Grace followed the chatter on Telegram and LIHKG from the safe house, where she’d made it unharmed. She sent updates on what police were doing—their location, where they were headed—so that her teammates could get out safely.

The police penned hundreds of protesters in the courtyard of the CITIC Tower, an office building across the street from LegCo, and fired tear gas into the crowd. Videos spread online of protesters trying to get into the tower even as smoke from the courtyard filled the lobby. The police beat people with batons and pelted them with rubber bullets. As avenues of escape opened and closed, Grace did her best to inform her teammates.

Once the police ended their assault, the demonstration dispersed. Four people were later arrested at a hospital while being treated for injuries. In the days that followed, Hong Kong’s chief executive, Carrie Lam, justified the aggressive response by claiming that there had been a riot. The protesters talked on message boards: Had anyone seen a riot? Grace hadn’t. No one had.

Grace’s world was the streets. Every time she went out, she crossed paths with people who were at once anonymous and somehow close to her.

The police violence on June 12 made the protesters feel more united than ever. They came up with a list of five demands: withdrawal of the extradition bill; Lam’s resignation; an investigation into police behavior;  withdrawal of the designation of the protest as a riot; and release of all arrested demonstrators. Four days later, Grace joined roughly two million protesters in the streets. (Police estimated the crowd at 338,000.)


The protests became a gathering storm—more frequent, closer together. On July 1, the 22nd anniversary of Hong Kong’s handover from the British, organizers estimated that 550,000 people rallied in the city. (The police reported around 180,000.) That night, protesters broke into the LegCo building. They unfurled the flag of British colonial Hong Kong and graffitied messages on the walls. A photo of the words “It was you who taught me peaceful protests were useless” went viral. Within weeks there would be a social workers’ march, a march of the elderly, a march for mothers—all of them in solidarity with the student-led movement.

Grace was almost never home. Her world was the streets. Every time she went out, she crossed paths with people who were at once anonymous and somehow close to her. She ran through a number of positions on teams organized by friends of friends or people she’d met on Telegram. She served as a lookout. She helped post art and spray graffiti. Eventually, she specialized in neutralizing tear gas. Wearing flame-resistant gloves, sometimes carrying tongs and a big water bottle, she would toss canisters away from protesters or douse them until they sputtered out.

Grace had conviction, one of her teammates said. She believed the movement could succeed. And she was happy to be working alone, without friends or her boyfriend or sister along. She knew people who protested with family members or significant others—though rarely on the same team—and recognized how difficult it was for them. “I saw people hug or kiss and then split up,” she said. “The couples would cry and say, like, ‘You need to come back safely and I will be here waiting for you!’” Grace was relieved that she didn’t have to worry about her boyfriend.

Her father called her phone nonstop when she went out. He demanded that she come home. Whenever she left the house, he shouted after her, “Don’t fight with the police!”

At the end of June 2019, a survey conducted by the University of Hong Kong found that a record number of city residents identified as Hong Kongers rather than simply Chinese. Meanwhile, the number of respondents who felt proud of being Chinese had dropped to an all-time low. Support for the pro-democracy movement was mounting.

Lam pledged to withdraw the extradition bill, but the protests didn’t stop. Amnesty International released a report decrying the treatment of protesters in custody, which in some cases the organization claimed amounted to torture—beatings, delayed access to medical care, forcibly shining laser pointers into detainees’ eyes. Journalists wore helmets and goggles to press conferences to protest what they described as a deliberate attempt by police to target the press. Law enforcement remained defiant, defending every action.

On July 21, following a protest in one of Hong Kong’s business districts, hundreds of men appeared on the streets in Yuen Long, a neighborhood an hour from downtown by metro. They wore white T-shirts—by then protesters had begun wearing black, while supporters of Beijing had adopted white—and carried metal bars and wooden clubs. At 10:30 p.m., the men began attacking people. Around 100 of them descended on a metro station and set upon anyone wearing black. Others were caught up in the violence: a pregnant woman, a journalist, random subway passengers. Local law enforcement arrived at 11 p.m. but did nothing. By the time police showed up with riot gear, nearly three hours later, the attackers were gone.

The pro-democracy protesters grew suspicious. Using thugs to carry out orders from the state is common practice in mainland China. A video circulated showing police officers talking to the men in white instead of arresting them. Law enforcement would take 37 men into custody over the next few months, on suspicion that they were linked to local triads, or criminal gangs. Only seven were formally charged.

Everyone felt the antagonism building. Grace narrowly missed being hit in the head with a rubber bullet at a protest outside the Sham Shui Po police station. Terra, the science student, recalled an officer pointing his rifle at her and her friends while they captured the scene on their phones. On August 11, police disguised as protesters attacked a dispersing crowd, beating demonstrators and crushing one student’s head against the concrete. He begged for mercy and spit out teeth as he laid in a pool of blood.

On August 31, protesters defied a ban on demonstrations and used the metro to move around the city, popping up in one place, then quickly moving to another. At Prince Edward Station in Mong Kok, on a platform packed with families and commuters, an alarm went off, and the police swarmed. They ran through the crowds, pushing people aside, looking for anyone in black. Videos showed people on the ground, putting up no resistance as police beat them with batons; first-aid providers being turned away from a man who was apparently unconscious; a couple huddled next to a stopped train, crying out as the police showered them with pepper spray.

Terra was one stop away, in Yau Ma Tei station, when a train from Prince Edward pulled in. “Suddenly, I saw people screaming and crying, and a lot of blood and umbrellas. It was a mess,” she said. Terra was not on a first-aid team; her job was cleaning up after protests. So she started picking up discarded gas masks while others tried to help the injured. She didn’t realize that the police were on their way. When they appeared, Terra dropped her bags and ran toward the escalator. Officers grabbed at her arms. “I felt like I’m not prepared to fight back. I’m not strong enough to push away a police officer,” she said. But she made it out of the station.

There were other incidents, too many to list. By the end of the summer, it was all but impossible to keep track. For Grace, time was starting to blur. More and more, she found herself on the front lines, joining protesters like Jack whose job it was to clash with police directly.

Jack wielded an umbrella and wore a gas mask so he could hold his ground as long as possible when the police charged. That helped people behind him get away, flowing down side streets unharmed. Front-liners also began participating in the targeted destruction of property. “You started to have more clear goals as time went on,” Jack said. “It was a faster pace.” Protesters broke windows in government buildings and in shops associated with organized crime, which seemed to have joined forces with the police. They threw Molotov cocktails and set things on fire. “You just judge there is not a lot of police coming yet, you destroy a China Bank machine or whatever, and then you go,” Jack said.

In September, an Indonesian journalist was blinded in one eye after being hit with a rubber bullet fired by police. In October and early November, at least two protesters were shot with live rounds. Grace was determined but fatigued. She kept fighting, knowing that her side, while not outmanned, was certainly outgunned. “We don’t have what they have,” one protester told me, referring to the police. “They have no limits on hurting us.”

Anyone could join the protests. Office ladies in high heels could make Molotov cocktails on their way to work.

In the early hours of November 4, a student named Alex Chow fell from a parking garage as police used tear gas in a nearby clearance operation. He died four days later, and Hong Kong erupted with renewed vigor. Protesters launched a campaign they called “blossom everywhere,” which employed hit-and-run techniques intended to cause chaos. They appeared at night, stacking bricks in roads like mini Stonehenges, aiming to snarl traffic. Sometimes they strung together metal street barriers, connecting them with zip ties to make them harder to clear away. The actions were small, quick—multiple groups would engage at once in activities all over the city, then recede into the darkness. Anyone could join the protests, even for a moment, and then return to normal life. Office ladies in high heels, Yeung said, could make Molotov cocktails on their way to work.

When the “blossom everywhere” offensive launched, Hong Kong’s universities were logical places for protesters to congregate. Many are located on major thoroughfares and near the bridges and tunnels that connect parts of the city. Even as classes continued, schools became de facto protest headquarters. The police knew this was happening, and on November 11, they bombarded Hong Kong Chinese University (CUHK) and PolyU with tear gas—the start of what would become a protracted battle.

Grace started the week at CUHK. She still made it home on some nights, hitchhiking to her parents’ apartment. When she stayed on campus, she slept outside next to other students. They shivered as nighttime temperatures dropped. “Everyone was getting hypothermia,” Grace said.

CUHK seemed to become the center of the clashes. Students threw debris onto Tolo Highway, located below the hillside campus. When hundreds of police charged on a bridge over the highway, protesters fled under a torrent of tear gas. Outside CUHK, the police parked vans and set up a perimeter, blocking the main entrance while attempting to break through barriers the protesters were defending. Protesters formed human chains to transport supplies across campus. Terra opened the doors of a student-run co-op to the newly resident protesters. She made them cups of noodles.

On November 13, a Wednesday, the courts rejected an appeal from students to ban the police from entering campuses without a warrant. The same day, Grace left CUHK. Other protesters convinced her to head to PolyU, where students needed help. They wanted to block one of Hong Kong’s most important arteries, ratcheting up the chaos engulfing the city.

The campus felt chaotic, like the protesters were making it up as they went. 

Hong Kong Polytechnic University is a fortress of red tile. It sits above the entrance of the cross-harbor tunnel, which allows commuters to move between the Kowloon Peninsula and Hong Kong Island, located off the city’s southern coast. Despite the campus’s centrality, its design separates students from the urban fray—the cluster of highways, train tracks, and tunnels that surround it. The school’s buildings, each designated by a letter of the English alphabet, form a linked perimeter punctuated by barrel-like turrets, which students call cores. The structures are so tightly connected that a person can wander from one end of campus to the other and only rarely set foot outside. Amid all the tile, on the northwest side of campus is a white building, designed by Zaha Hadid, that houses the university’s design school and resembles a giant cruise ship.

PolyU is accessible almost exclusively by pedestrian overpasses, bridges, and stairways. In some places, these pass below the elevated roads around campus; in others they’re perched above traffic. At first this layout seemed to protesters like an advantage. They could block access points with bricks and furniture, keeping the police at bay. They slept in a gym at night and sprawled in tiled courtyards during the day, their voices echoing off the towers around them. Someone made signs out of cardboard directing protesters to available showers. People practiced archery and made slingshots out of bamboo. Some practiced throwing Molotov cocktails into an empty pool, to refine their aim. They were getting ready for whatever came next.

On the Thursday when Grace arrived at PolyU, protesters had already managed to block the cross-harbor tunnel, setting toll booths on fire and throwing down debris from an overpass they’d occupied. The campus felt chaotic, like the protesters were making it up as they went. There wasn’t enough food. “People were feeling distressed,” said Jack, who arrived at PolyU around the same time Grace did.

Grace volunteered to mix Molotov cocktails. To ensure she was getting the balance of gas and oil just right, she threw test explosives down an empty walkway and measured how close she could get before feeling the heat. (The farther away the better, to help keep the police at bay.) Grace wasn’t as effective as some others on the front lines. She wasn’t strong enough, for instance, to throw the Molotovs very far. Here was something she could do: test the heat of the bombs against her own skin.

On Friday, November 15, the police had yet to charge the barricades around PolyU. But the protesters knew this would happen at some point. It was hard not to think of Tiananmen Square. What if the police used live rounds? What if demonstrators were arrested and sent to mainland China, despite the extradition bill’s demise? The protesters decided to act preemptively. They piled debris in the roads closest to campus and set it on fire.

The roads burned for hours before the police came, on Saturday. They positioned water cannons and armored vehicles on the far side of a sea of bricks scattered across the asphalt at PolyU’s main entrance. Grace and Jack joined students gathering at the campus’s access points. Vans and officers approached from the south, spraying water and a blue liquid spiked with pepper spray. The protesters, some of whom assembled into a tightly packed testudo formation beneath umbrellas or scavenged pieces of debris, had amassed Molotov cocktails and boxes of bricks. They could throw them by hand or launch them from makeshift catapults. Some protesters held walkie-talkies, to pass along instructions and intel.

A standoff ensued—the police fired projectiles, and the lines of students fell back and then surged forward, hurling explosives and debris. Updates about police activity circulated throughout Saturday night via Telegram, walkie-talkies, a whiteboard in the campus canteen—any way the protesters could think of to get the word out. When reinforcements were needed at one entrance or another, Grace added her body to the crowd, holding an umbrella to deflect water and pepper spray. When the police threw tear gas, she did her best to put it out. The police shot the canisters parallel to the ground rather than in an overhead arc, aiming directly at the crowd.

News and rumors flew over Telegram and on LIHKG. The police announced that anyone who wanted to leave PolyU peacefully could exit via Y core, a building toward the northern end of campus. Some left, but many of them were arrested, including members of the media and first-aid groups. The remaining protesters knew that they couldn’t trust the police. They held their lines. At one point, the police retreated from the main intersection on the south side of campus long enough for protesters to retrieve bricks they’d thrown, to be used again.

On Sunday night, more than 24 hours into the siege, the police attempted to break through a group of protesters who had planted themselves on a bridge above the cross-harbor tunnel. Two armored trucks approached a line of open umbrellas; Molotov cocktails flew. When one of the police vehicles caught fire, a gasp went up from the protesters—a moment of surprise that soon turned into a cheer. The flaming car backed up and returned to the police cordon.

The protesters weren’t losing—not yet. But they were tired. They were frightened. They were hungry. When Grace heard that the police had threatened to use live bullets, she started to feel desperate. At CUHK, she knew how to get out and did so whenever she wanted. At PolyU, the police weren’t leaving—and they weren’t allowing anyone else to leave.

Grace’s phone buzzed with a new rumor: The police were about to break through the barriers and storm the campus.

People began talking over how to escape. The protesters didn’t want to be arrested and charged with rioting, which can bring a penalty of up to ten years in prison. They didn’t want to be shot or injured. They just wanted to go home.

Word spread that some students were climbing a tree on the edge of campus, easing out onto the branches, and dropping down into the road to be picked up by passing cars—the city had grown so concerned about the protesters that strangers were offering them a ride. Grace ran to the tree and was waiting her turn to climb when her phone buzzed. She launched Telegram. A message said police had taken up a position just beyond the tree and were arresting people as they landed on the ground.

Grace heard about another escape route, but police discovered it before she could get there. Messages were hitting her phone constantly. Pictures of police with sniper rifles. Word of another clash. Early on Monday morning, her phone buzzed with a new rumor: The police were about to break through the barriers and storm the campus.

Grace joined a group of protesters in an empty classroom. They barricaded themselves in and went silent. The officers entered PolyU at 5:30 a.m., arresting people in a part of campus that had been set up to triage protesters with injuries. Then they withdrew. It wasn’t a raid, the police insisted—it was a “dispersal operation,” aimed at collecting explosives. They seemed to be shifting their tactics: Rather than an all-out assault, they were going to wait the protesters out.

Students who had hidden started to emerge. Grace and other protesters came out of the classroom and checked their phones. There was a new plan: The protesters would leave together, as one.

Hundreds of young people headed for a pedestrian bridge that led away from campus. Students wearing protective gear took it off so they could move faster. V, the musician, was walking with his sister, but she passed out when the tear gas, which the police kept firing from outside the barricades, became too thick. “I’m grabbing her, and her boyfriend is grabbing her as well,” V said. “She just can’t feel anything. She felt so heavy.”

Grace ran. A rubber bullet hit the helmet she was wearing. Then she saw people ahead of her running back—the police wouldn’t let them leave. She was disoriented by the smoke and the noise. She ran with a crowd until someone broke a window of the library. Grace climbed over the shattered glass to get inside.

She called her parents and told them that she couldn’t get out. Her father didn’t believe her. “He thought it was not a big deal. He thought his daughter could escape so easily,” Grace recalled. Her mother cried with her and said she was proud. Grace sent a message to her boyfriend, telling him that if she died, he should never forget who killed her: the police.

The protesters at PolyU pinned their hopes on a group of marchers heading toward campus. There were thousands of people: parents, office workers, more students.

The plight of the trapped students captured Hong Kongers’ attention. People called for the protesters to be let out. On Monday, pro-democracy legislators declared the situation a humanitarian crisis. The popular singer Denise Ho took to Twitter to ask the world to help save Hong Kong’s students. Meanwhile, an editorial in the Global Times, a Beijing-based publication, called for the police to fire live rounds.

On Monday night, many of the protesters at PolyU pinned their hopes on a group of marchers heading toward campus. There were thousands of people: parents, office workers, more students. Terra joined from CUHK. “The people next to me were wearing suits—they just got off work,” she recalled. The group hoped to draw police away from campus long enough for the students to escape. It didn’t work.


People who’d given up were slowly trickling off campus. Those who weren’t picked up by cars or motorbikes were arrested. Jack tried to escape through the sewers, but the map he had wasn’t right—he ended up at a dead end. He felt like a trapped animal. Beyond campus, the police were blasting songs by movie star and singer Jackie Chan and theme music from television shows, trying to prevent the protesters from getting any rest. “From time to time, they will make some announcement, ‘Oh, just come out and surrender, we will treat you good,’” Jack said. “Everyone knows they won’t treat you fairly.”


He heard that some people had cut the crash netting used to protect the campus from an elevated road. Protesters could climb up to the road, wait for the police to change shifts, and run when they had an opening. Jack hid in some bushes for several hours. When it was time, the protesters he was with went in groups of three. Jack’s group was the second to run. The police caught him. The other two protesters escaped.

Hundreds tried to get out via Z core, the last building in the chain of PolyU, connected to the rest by a sky bridge. The police were shooting tear gas from the road below, but then the wind changed direction, blowing the smoke back, forcing the cops to retreat. Protesters rappelled down from the bridge and were carted off by people on scooters waiting below.

This was her chance. Grace went.

The bridge stood about 20 feet over the street—a covered stretch of glass and steel with high railings on both sides. Just beyond the railings were rounded metal ledges where a person could stand, albeit precariously. There was one spot where someone had strung ropes that reached from the bridge all the way to the ground.

Grace slung herself over the railing and felt pain shoot through her arm. But she couldn’t turn back. She waited, balancing on the bridge’s metal lip. When it was her turn, Grace leaned out; she grasped a rope and jumped. Her injured arm couldn’t handle the weight of her body. She fell.

It took ten days for the police to clear the campus. They arrested more than 1,100 people.

When Grace hit the pavement, pain shot up her leg and back. A group of strangers ran toward her. She couldn’t walk, so they picked her up and put her on a scooter. The ride from campus was a blur of agony. At some point, Grace lost consciousness. When she came to, she was in an apartment. She tried to get up but couldn’t. She wanted to call her boyfriend, but she couldn’t get her phone out of her pocket by herself. “I kept asking about the situation inside of PolyU,” she said. Grace learned that many protesters were still trapped.

Over the next few days, Grace was moved from safe house to safe house. A doctor came to examine her; she had multiple injuries, but she asked me not to describe them, since they could be used to track her down. She contacted her parents, and they came to see her. By then the injured had flooded the city’s hospitals. Soon after Grace escaped, Hong Kong’s medical authority reported that doctors had treated about 300 people from PolyU.

It took ten more days for the police to clear the campus. Finally, on November 29, the siege was over. The police had arrested more than 1,100 people. The authorities announced that they’d recovered 3,989 petrol bombs, 1,339 other “explosive items,” 601 bottles of corrosive liquids, and 573 weapons. The implication was clear: The police hadn’t done anything wrong—they were contending with dangerous people.

Grace went home to recover from her injuries. She monitored protests from her phone as they continued to flare up around the city. In late November, an election for Hong Kong’s district councils—local advisory bodies in charge of community activities and environmental improvements—handed democracy advocates an overwhelming victory, with 86 percent of the vote. Two weeks later, hundreds of thousands of Hong Kongers took to the streets to insist that China meet their demands for a freer city. Beijing made no concessions.

In December, the international members of a panel tasked with reviewing police behavior at PolyU stepped down in protest—the group had too little investigative power, they said. The same month, Hong Kong’s police chief cryptically thanked China’s public-security bureau for its “vigorous support and help.” Shortly after, a leaked use-of-force police manual showed that Hong Kong’s officers regularly broke their own rules. Again, there were no consequences.

Then, in January, everything came to a screeching halt—the protests, the press conferences, the arrests. The coronavirus pandemic shut down Hong Kong. For the first time in months, it was quiet.

During the lockdown, Grace texted with her boyfriend and started to think about her schoolwork again. She chatted online with friends. Still, her mind wandered. She couldn’t sleep well—she had nightmares. Every time she heard a siren, she jumped. It was strange to have been at PolyU and feel as if the world was ending, then see life go on, however quiet.

Terra had fought with her parents during the 2019 protests—they were pro-Beijing—and moved in with her boyfriend. Now she watched as friends stewed in their hatred of the police. “A lot of my friends are still stuck in those moments,” she said, referring to the violence of last year. “Even though we are staying at home, they are still making video clips about those battles.”

Terra tried to think about the future. She wanted to form an organization to help protesters who’d been arrested and were now facing criminal charges. She also joined Grace and other demonstrators in throwing herself behind the idea of the Yellow Economic Circle, a campaign to convince Hong Kongers to stop shopping at stores that supported the Chinese government, spending their money instead at businesses allied with the pro-democracy movement.

“Sometimes I feel passionate and determined and I want to change the world,” Terra said. “But when I feel uncomfortable I have another mindset, which is: Hide in a cave, hide in a mountain, hide in CUHK, get a research job and a comfortable position.” She could try to resurrect the normal Hong Kong girl.

As protesters like Grace and Terra used the pandemic lockdown to ponder protest tactics, strategize about local elections, and plot boycotts, Beijing changed the rules again. The national-security law that had been proposed and rejected in 2003 was resurrected. This time, Beijing announced that it would not need the approval of LegCo to enact the law. It exploited a loophole in Hong Kong’s constitution that allowed China to introduce certain laws by decree.

“The world is just disgusting,” Jack told me. “People who have capital will migrate and flee. The people who need to flee the most cannot really go—either they have no money, or they have a criminal record because of the protests.” He remained in the city, where his own legal case, the result of his arrest at PolyU, was pending.

The national-security law represented everything the protesters at PolyU feared might happen. It would introduce the crimes of subversion and secession, with a maximum penalty of life in prison. It would make damaging public transportation a crime tantamount to terrorism. It would enable Hong Kong’s chief executive to cherry-pick the judges who hear national-security cases, overriding the city’s prized independent judiciary, and allow some trials to happen behind closed doors. Beijing was coming for the protesters. And it was coming for Hong Kong’s freedoms.

The situation was grim, but the city’s pro-democracy forces persisted. “Before you get slaughtered,” Terra told me, “at least you should yell.” Demonstrators flooded the streets in May, despite a ban on gatherings because of the pandemic. The police came too, toting blue signs that read, “This meeting or procession is in breach of the law. Disperse or we may use force.” On June 4, the anniversary of the Tiananmen Square massacre, the city prohibited the annual vigil for the first time. People came out anyway.

It didn’t matter. At the end of the month, Beijing made its next move: It approved the national-security law.

In late July, four students were arrested for publishing “secessionist” social media posts.

Without question, Grace knew that she would join the next battle for democracy. “I don’t want to leave Hong Kong,” she told me. “Hong Kong is my home. I will fight until it dies.” Having recovered from her injuries, she joined a protest on July 1, the anniversary of Hong Kong’s handover to China. The crowds were smaller than in years past. The police had already changed the wording on its posters: “You are displaying flags or banners/chanting slogans/or conducting yourselves with an intent such as secession or subversion, which may constitute offenses under the ‘HKSAR National Security Law.’ You may be arrested and prosecuted.”

When Grace returned home, she watched bystander videos making the rounds online. A journalist thrown sideways by a blast from a water cannon. An older woman pulled out of her car by police. Riot cops charging with batons. Around 370 people had been arrested, ten of them under the national-security law. Protesters circulated jokes about what they might be detained for: Loving Hong Kong too much? Or something Beijing hadn’t thought of yet?

Books critical of Beijing disappeared from Hong Kong’s libraries. The office of the Public Opinion Research Institute, which publishes polls about politics and local identity, was raided and threatened with the confiscation of its computers. As demonstrations continued, some protesters held up blank pieces of paper to signify that nothing was safe for them to say. The police arrested eight of them. In late July, four students were arrested for publishing “secessionist” social media posts.

Grace knows that her time might come. But she will keep protesting, whether that means detainment or worse. She has already written down everything she wants her friends and family to know if that happens. She wrote the message even before she knew if she would make it out of PolyU alive. It was a goodbye to the people she loved, and a testament to her conviction.

“Officials have forced the people to fight back, blood for blood,” she wrote. “In the face of occupation, of suppression and abuse, Hong Kong people must resist and never compromise. You, like me, might feel exhausted. You will inevitably feel powerless in the face of the Communist Party. But you should know that there are many people who will walk with you along this difficult path. And, although I am going to stop here, you will help me to continue on.”

“I would rather be ashes than dust,” Grace wrote, quoting Jack London. “I would rather die than live quietly.”


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The Rescue

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The Rescue

A flimsy raft, more than 100 souls, and three teenage heroes—or are they pirates?

By Zach Campbell

The Atavist Magazine, No. 95


Zach Campbell is a writer based in Barcelona. He has written for The Intercept, Politico Europe, and Harper’s, among other publications. Follow him on Twitter at @notzachcampbell.

Editor: Jonah Ogles
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Kate Wheeling
Illustrator: Nicole Rifkin

Published in September 2019. Design updated in 2021.

Every master is bound, so far as he can do so without serious danger to his vessel, her crew and passengers, to render assistance to everybody, even though an enemy, found at sea in danger of being lost.

—International Salvage Treaty, 1910


With the same hope I had felt in the afternoon as I waited to see airplanes on the horizon, that night I looked for the lights of ships. For hours I scrutinized the sea: a tranquil sea, immense and silent, but I saw no light other than that of the stars.

—Gabriel García Márquez, “The Story of a Shipwrecked Sailor”


Abdalla Bari was hungry. It was the morning of March 26, 2019, and Bari and more than 100 other people were floating in a 30-foot-long rubber dinghy in the Mediterranean Sea, somewhere in the expanse of water between North Africa and Italy. Men straddled the boat’s edge, each with one foot dangling above the water and the other inside the dinghy. They formed a tightly packed ring around a huddled mass of women and children. At least one of the women was noticeably pregnant. Another, Souwa Nikavogui, was Bari’s wife.

Bari was on the starboard side, near the bow. He was skinny but muscular, with hair fashioned into short, spiky locks; he had a long scar down his right arm. Nikavogui, slightly shorter, with an intense, distant gaze, braced herself to stay upright as the dinghy rocked in the waves. They were teenagers in love—Bari was 19, Nikavogui 18—and they already had a child of their own. Her name was Fanta, and they’d left her with Bari’s mother, thousands of miles away in Guinea. Fanta was two years old. If help didn’t arrive soon, she would grow up with no memory of her parents.

The cheap inflatable dinghy wouldn’t make it to Europe. Bari and Nikavogui knew that before they climbed aboard in Libya. Their only hope was to be rescued before the boat sank. Bari watched as the bow bent upward, working its way up a wave. A small outboard motor strained to nudge the rest of the vessel over the crest of water.

For Bari and Nikavogui, this was the last leg of a long journey, stretching across four countries and a swath of the Sahara desert. They had spent the past four months in Tripoli, living in what migrants call “the campo,” a massive warehouse that smugglers use as a staging ground before moving people across the Mediterranean. The night before they left, the couple were approached by a man demanding money for their uncertain passage, although they’d already paid once. Bari and Nikavogui did as he asked, and early the next morning they loaded into a truck that rattled them to the water’s edge. Smugglers inflated the dinghy; the migrants climbed aboard. As they pushed out to sea, they knew it might be the last time they saw land.

Still, they were relieved. Libya was hell, and certain death if you stayed there too long. A man on the dinghy—I’ll call him Victor, a pseudonym, for his safety—was making his third attempt to reach Europe. The other two times, his group was intercepted before they could get on a boat. After the most recent try, Victor, who’d fled violence in his home country of Nigeria, was sent to one of Libya’s notorious migrant detention centers. Human rights organizations and the media have exposed the facilities as rife with torture, slavery, extortion, and other horrors. Victor bribed his way out for nearly $1,000. Then it was back to the campo, into the hands of another smuggler, and finally onto the dinghy.

The boat motored north. The harsh sun rose higher in the sky as the migrants searched for any speck on the horizon, a disturbance in the endless blue that might grow larger, take shape, become their salvation.

Finally, someone cried out, “A plane!”

Bari jolted at the sound. Suddenly, people around him were talking. As the plane approached, some said they saw a Spanish flag painted on its tail; others thought it was Italian. Either way it was European. That’s what mattered.

The plane passed overhead, and the people on the boat waved and yelled, as if they could be heard over the roar of the engines. Bari counted in his head as the plane circled the boat: once, twice, three times. The pilot had spotted the dinghy, that much was clear. After the fourth pass, the plane flew toward the horizon and out of sight. Those on the boat were left to wait one last time.

A few miles away, aboard the oil tanker El Hiblu 1, a radio crackled to life.

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Partial transcript of radio communication between an aircraft deployed by the European Union’s Operation Sophia and the El Hiblu 1 on March 26, 2019; obtained via a nearby ship.

EH1: I am going to Tripoli port. My destination is Tripoli port, Libya.

OS: Sir, there are lives at sea, can you assist them?

EH1: OK, no problem. What assistance do you need?

OS: We need you to proceed to the area and help the boat in the water.

EH1: Where is it? Can you give me the latitude and longitude, please?

OS: Position three-three-three-seven north, zero-one-four-two-zero east.

EH1: This is the position?

EH1: OK, I will proceed to this position. OK.

OS: We are flying over the area. If you can see us, we are flying over the boat.

EH1: OK, I will check your—OK.

OS: Thank you, sir.

[Ninety seconds pass.]

OS: El Hiblu 1, El Hiblu 1, this is the maritime patrol aircraft. We are coordinating with the Libyan coast guard. Sir, you need to rescue those people, because the Libyan coast guard boat is out of service.

At first all that Bari could tell about the ship coming toward the dinghy was that it was big and painted red. He hoped that it was an NGO boat, maybe the Spanish Open Arms or the German Alan Kurdi. Like others attempting the Mediterranean passage, he’d watched countless YouTube videos of these humanitarian ships rescuing people at sea. He knew what came next: A smiling European crew would climb onto small high-speed boats, zip to the dinghy, and hand out bright orange life vests. They would transfer the migrants to the larger ship, ten at a time, where there would be blankets, medical supplies, and food. Then they would make land in Europe, where it would be safe, where there was work. From there, Bari hoped, he and Nikavogui could provide for Fanta and the rest of their family.

But as the ship came closer, Bari realized that this rescue was going to be different. The El Hiblu 1 wasn’t a humanitarian ship—it was a 170-foot bunkering vessel, used to move oil between larger ships. What Bari couldn’t know was that the plane he’d seen, the same one that had radioed the tanker, was part of Operation Sophia, a European military effort aimed at stemming migration from Libya. It took its name from a baby born to a Somali mother on a German frigate in the Mediterranean in 2015.

That year, European ships, planes, and submarines began patrolling international waters off the coast of Libya, rescuing migrants and destroying their boats. But the smuggling networks found more boats—smaller, cheaper ones that were far less seaworthy. In response, Operation Sophia began training, funding, equipping, and directing a new Libyan coast guard that could do what the Europeans legally could not: take the people intercepted on ships back to where they came from, even if they had already made it out of Libya and into international waters. (Under international law, this is called refoulement, from the French for “turning away.”) Operation Sophia organized the effort despite mounting evidence of atrocities committed against migrants by Libyan smugglers, security forces, and the coast guard itself. In September 2018, the Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees declared that nowhere in Libya should be considered a place of safety for people rescued at sea. Six months later, the Women’s Refugee Commission released a report detailing widespread sexual violence against migrants in the North African state. “Everyone knows when a man says, ‘I’ve gone through Libya,’ it is a euphemism for rape,” a source told the organization.

That people continued to attempt the journey across the Mediterranean in large numbers prompted yet another shift in strategy: On the same day that Operation Sophia radioed the El Hiblu 1, EU member states decided to stop sending ships out on patrol and focus instead on surveillance flights. The planes would identify migrant boats and direct either the Libyan coast guard or nearby ships, including commercial ones, to stage rescues.

This was the scenario that the El Hiblu 1 found itself in. The tanker was empty, save for six crew members en route from Istanbul to Tripoli. The lack of cargo weight caused the bow to perk upward, as if the ship were popping a wheelie. As the tanker moved toward the dinghy, the driver of the rubber craft shut off the outboard engine. The waves were getting bigger, and the migrants worried that they might be swept under the ship as it approached.

When the two vessels were close enough, a crew member on the El Hiblu 1 threw down ropes and a ladder from the tanker’s deck. People crowded together to climb one by one off the dinghy. Bari and Nikavogui queued up. But six people stayed put. One of them said that he thought the ship was Libyan. What if it took them back?

Those still aboard the dinghy begged the wider group, now amassing on the deck of the El Hiblu 1, to come back down; the dinghy could keep going north, toward Malta. No one descended the ladder. Instead, the people on the tanker implored those on the dinghy to reconsider. It was clear that the dinghy, now nearly empty of people, was deflating. It bobbed limply up and down on the waves.

Don’t go, Bari and others shouted down at the boat. Just come up to the ship. These people are going to help.

Instead the men let go of the ropes that connected the boat to the El Hiblu 1. They started up the dinghy’s motor once again and headed north, eventually disappearing from sight. Malta was still more than 100 miles away.

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Nader El-Hiblu was the tanker’s first mate. He was Libyan, and he shared his name with the ship because his brother, Salah, owned it. Slender and balding, with high cheekbones and a beard, Nader asked if anyone spoke English. “I do,” said a teenager who, like Bari and Nikavogui, was from Guinea. Through the translator, Nader was able to explain that he’d been called by the crew of a military airplane to rescue the people on the dinghy. He was still awaiting instructions about what to do next.

He asked where in Libya the group had embarked: Garabuli, Zawiya, Zuwara, Tripoli? All were well-known departure points for migrant boats in Libya, but Nader said their names with a familiarity that made some of the migrants uneasy. Was he Libyan? They began to whisper among themselves, their many languages quietly colliding.

“Where are you going to take us?” someone yelled in English.

Nader repeated what he’d said about the plane.

“Yes, but are you taking us to Libya?”

Bari, standing with Nikavogui, wondered if the people who’d stayed on the dinghy had been wise. What if he’d come this far only to be turned back, to have nothing to show for his journey?

He and Nikavogui were from Mamou, a small village in the Guinean interior. Bari was the eldest of nine children. His father had been a vegetable farmer, while his mother took care of their seven boys and two girls. In 2017, Bari was in his first year of university, studying sociology, when his father died. He quit school to support his family, going to work in the fields like his father had. Still, there were times when they couldn’t afford food. Before long, Bari had more mouths to feed: Nikavogui’s and Fanta’s. Survival meant leaving Mamou—following “the route,” as many migrants from Africa call the passage across the Mediterranean. Nikavogui decided to go, too.

Bari left first, toward the end of Ramadan in 2018. He traveled by day on an empty stomach from Guinea to Mali to Algeria, where he spent two months waiting for a safe opportunity to cross the border into Libya. By September, he’d arrived in Tripoli and found work pouring concrete on construction sites. Nikavogui joined him soon after, and by the end of the year the couple were staying at the campo, waiting for their chance to leave for Europe. There was little food or privacy at the warehouse; tuberculosis was rampant. Outside, Libya was in the midst of a civil war. The people in the campo heard the same refrain every night: the boom, boom, boom of gunfire in the distance. They were locked inside and told to keep quiet. “We didn’t scream,” one woman who spent time there told me. “We didn’t do anything. Even the children didn’t scream.”

Now, aboard the El Hiblu 1, Nader uttered the words that the migrants didn’t want to hear. He explained the ship’s original course: Istanbul to Tripoli. Word rippled through the crowd, and arguing quickly ensued. Victor, the man from Nigeria, was determined to never go back to a Libyan detention center. He declared that it was better for the tanker to leave them to die at sea.

In the telling of some of the people present that day, Nader tried to calm the group by swearing on the Koran that he would help them get to Europe. He pointed at the sky and talked again about the plane. He said that the Europeans would send a rescue ship and that he was only waiting to learn the rendezvous point. He climbed up to the ship’s bridge and turned the vessel away from Libya. The migrants considered it an act of good faith. “He swore in front of all of us, saying that he had the courage to take us, to help us,” the pregnant woman, whom I’ll call Mariama, later told me.

The tanker went north for a while, then turned west, moving slowly toward the setting sun. Placated, people settled onto the deck. They clustered toward the bow, where a raised section of the ship provided some protection from the elements. There were only a few blankets to share, and no food. Night fell, but Bari and Nikavogui knew they wouldn’t sleep much. She was seasick, and it was cold.

Bari couldn’t hear what Nader was saying in the ship’s cabin. Over the radio, Operation Sophia requested that the El Hiblu 1 pick up a second boatful of migrants, situated a few miles from the tanker’s location. Nader said that he couldn’t.

Partial transcript of communication between Operation Sophia aircraft and the El Hiblu 1 on March 26, 2019.

OS: El Hiblu 1, El Hiblu 1, thank you for your cooperation, sir. We ask for the other boat. Can you proceed to the other one?

EH1: I cannot proceed because I have big problem. Let me put—they don’t let me to move from my position, OK? They want to go to Europe, Spain or Italy.

EH1: Airplane, El Hiblu 1.

OS: Sir, we are cooperating with the Libyan coast guard. They tell us to say to you that you can move those people to Tripoli.

EH1: I take the people to Tripoli?

EH1: Airplane, airplane navy, El Hiblu 1.

OS: Sir, we are coordinating—we are under the coordination of the Libyan national coast guard. Don’t go and rescue the other boat. You can proceed to Tripoli.

EH1: OK, send to me their support please, because I cannot move from my position because the people is very crazy here.

OS: Thank you, sir. Thank you for your cooperation. We are calling for assistance.

EH1: It’s no problem for me, but the people is very crazy here. They make me big problem on board now. Big problem on board now.

OS: Thank you, sir. I’m sorry for the inconvenience. Please, I’m going to turn [inaudible].

[Four minutes pass.]

OS: [Inaudible] the situation on board.

EH1: Very bad. Very bad.

OS: Can you give us any information about the situation on board?

EH1: I want any assistance from the other ship, please. Because he refuse—anything and made to me too much problem on board here. If you can send me other ship for [inaudible].

OS: Sir, we are doing all we can to [inaudible].

OS: El Hiblu 1, this is maritime patrol aircraft. Libyan authority is now aware of your situation. They come to your position as soon as possible.

EH1: I’m waiting here in my position. I’m waiting here in my position. I need assistance, please.

OS: Thank you, sir. They are on his way.

It was early morning when one of the migrants spotted land. In the weak light of dawn, he climbed a set of stairs to look over the ship’s bow. There was a dark strip in the distance. The man cried out. Bari heard his voice; he sounded happy. Other people ascended the stairs to see for themselves.

Joy quickly gave way to fear. Some of them thought they could see lighthouses—ones they recognized. Then someone got a signal on their cell phone. It was from a Libyan network.

Nader hadn’t held his position at sea. Around 12:30 a.m., he had given up waiting for the Libyan coast guard. He locked the door to the cabin, turned the El Hiblu 1 south, and pushed the throttle. As he headed toward Libya, Nader finally spoke with the coast guard; they told him that soldiers were preparing a boarding party, which would find the ship and detain the migrants.

Those on board didn’t know that the Libyan coast guard might be on its way, but seeing land was enough for them to feel tricked. Some began to cry and yell. “Oh, Libya! Oh, Libya!” one person screamed.

People threatened to throw themselves off the ship. Bari heard voices shouting at Nader to stop, to turn around. A group of people picked up tools and pieces of wood from the deck and began banging on the tanker’s surfaces. They moved toward the bridge to confront Nader.

Bari later said that he was near the bow at that point, with Nikavogui. She was still sick, and they were both exhausted. But Bari decided that he had to do something. Angry people had surrounded the ship’s cabin. If the situation escalated, someone could get hurt or killed, or all of them could wind up arrested and tossed into a Libyan detention center. The previous fall, a group of more than 90 people had barricaded themselves inside a cargo ship that rescued them at sea and returned to the Libyan port of Misrata. Ten days later, Libyan authorities used tear gas and rubber bullets to remove them from the ship.

Bari climbed to the bridge, where men held sticks and metal objects in their hands. They chanted, “No Libya! No Libya!” Shielded by the walls, windows, and locked door of the cabin, Nader could see that the tanker was six miles from Tripoli. He changed course, turning the El Hiblu 1’s prow toward the open sea. “I don’t know why the captain turned,” Bari recalled. “But I know that I saw people protest, and it worked.”

In several of the migrants’ recollections, Nader unlocked the cabin and came outside. He told the group that he would take them to Europe. No one believed him—not after what had happened overnight. They kept chanting and banging the items they’d scavenged from the ship. Nader seemed to recognize the teenager who’d translated for him the day before. “You,” Bari remembered Nader saying. “Come in. I’ll show you the direction we’re going.”

The translator, who was 15 years old, went into the cabin. Another young man, only a year older, joined him. So did Bari. He felt like it was the right thing to do. He stayed near the cabin’s door as Nader showed the translator the ship’s controls and navigation system. Satisfied, the teenager returned to talk to the angry group. “Calm down, the captain is right,” he said, poking his head out the cabin’s door. “We’re going to Malta.”

Bari stepped farther inside to look at the ship’s compass. It was true: The ship was heading due north. “Everybody calm down,” Bari shouted.

Bari and two other men decided to stay inside the cabin with Nader. He had misled them before, Bari thought. How could they trust him not to do it again?

“I don’t know why the captain turned. But I know that I saw people protest, and it worked.”

As the tanker’s engine growled and morning slid into afternoon, the migrants’ anxiety subsided. They ambled around the deck; some dozed at the ship’s bow. Bari could hear Nader talking on the radio, trying to explain the situation to Maltese authorities, who told him the ship didn’t have authorization to enter the country’s waters. Still, Nader didn’t seem agitated—none of the crew did—so Bari wasn’t worried. As long as the tanker stayed its course, he thought, things would get better.

On land, however, stress about the El Hiblu 1 was mounting. Word of the tanker’s situation made its way to the media. Before they set foot in Europe, Bari and the two other men in the ship’s cabin were labeled criminals of the worst kind.

“Rescued migrants hijack ship, demand it head towards Europe,” read an Associated Press headline on the afternoon of March 27, as the tanker plowed through Mediterranean waves. Other news stories described migrants “seizing control” of the ship amid a “desperate” situation. The Maltese military told local media that there was “a pirate ship” and that soldiers were “on alert.” Italy’s interior minister at the time, far-right politician Matteo Salvini, took to Twitter. “They aren’t shipwreck survivors; they are pirates,” he wrote. “They should know that they’ll only ever see Italy through binoculars.” The ANSA news agency quoted Salvini saying, “Poor castaways, who hijack a merchant ship that saved them because they want to decide the route of the cruise.” Meanwhile, the AP reported that Salvini “had a message for the pirates: ‘Forget about Italy.’”

Bari and the other migrants weren’t aware of the mounting media firestorm—they knew only that Nader was taking the ship closer and closer to Malta. At 12:51 a.m. on March 28, the El Hiblu 1 was just over 24 nautical miles from the island nation. If it moved any closer, it would enter Maltese jurisdiction on its way to Valletta, the capital and main port. The Maltese coast guard radioed the ship. Bari later said that he was asleep during the exchange.

Transcript of communication between Maltese Armed Forces (AFM) and the El Hiblu 1 on March 28, 2019.

AFM: El Hiblu 1, this is Maltese patrol vessel Papa 21. You are still proceeding towards the Maltese islands at a constant speed. You have already been given instructions to not continue entering Maltese territorial waters. Please stop your vessel.

EH1: OK sir, but the migrants, my vessel not under command now. My vessel not under command.

AFM: Captain, stop your engine now. You are still proceeding at ten knots, at ten knots. You are still proceeding at ten knots.

EH1: OK, roger sir. OK.

EH1 [a different voice]: Good morning, sir. Good morning. I am one of the migrants. Good morning, sir.

AFM: Good morning.

EH1: Please, listen to me carefully. Listen to me carefully. We are not proceeding—the ship to go to Malta. But the situation is very bad, we have children, 12 children. They are not even talking anymore. Three days now, no food or water. Please. We are not allowed to go back. Please. Three days now, we do not have food. We are 19 women, 12 children. Please help us. None of us are well. We are all sick. Please, please, no one get—please, for God’s sake, please help us. Not allowed to go back.

AFM: Copy that, sir. For now your instructions are to stop your vessel immediately and to wait for further instructions. You are not allowed to continue proceeding to go to Malta. Stop your vessel immediately.

EH1 [Nader’s voice again]: We have already stopped, captain. Already stopped. My engine is stopped now.

AFM: Copy that. Stand by. Stand by on this channel for now.

EH1: OK, thank you, sir. Thank you.

AFM: El Hiblu 1, El Hiblu 1, Malta patrol vessel P21, do you read?

EH1: Yes. I have now 100 people Africa on board. He change my course to Valletta, to Malta, to Valletta by force, by force. I am not under command. Please, if you can send to me Malta coast guard, I will thank you in advance.

AFM: Are there any crew members injured?

EH1: Yes, now I have—crews injured on board here. Many people fight with me yesterday because I don’t want to come to Malta. My destination was from Tuzla, Istanbul, to Tripoli, Libya—all the people on board fight with me, broken my vessel, by force. That’s why change the course to Malta. I called the Libyan navy many times but no, they didn’t answer. Also, for put me in the situation, military aircraft, when I proceed from Tripoli, I proceed from the Tripoli port, military call me for change my course for some place and rescue people from the port.

AFM: Captain, instructions for now are to hold the course one-four-five. Course one-four-five.

EH1: One-four-five, to where? To where?

AFM: Wait further instructions, so you are in good stability for the ship. For now, hold the course and wait for further instructions. Minimum speed.

EHI: OK, but please, if you can send to me the coast guard I will thank you, because I am not under command.

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Bari was still asleep on the ship’s bridge when he heard one of the crew members yelling. “Hurry up,” the man barked. “Get out. Your friends are out. The soldiers are coming.”

It was 5:30 a.m. and dark out except for a sliver of peach-colored sun to the east. Maltese special forces had arrived by boat to storm the El Hiblu 1, still a few miles away from land. The soldiers, including members of Malta’s counterterrorism unit, wore tactical gear and balaclavas. They carried automatic weapons. They climbed onto the tanker, and a handful hurried to the ship’s control room. In a video of the raid, edited by the Maltese government to include a triumphant instrumental soundtrack, a soldier waves one arm while holding his weapon with the other, urging two men in the cabin to step away from the window. They both appear to comply with the soldier’s command.

Bari had gone to find Nikavogui. He felt relieved: They were finally in European territory. But Nikavogui was terrified. In her experience, armed soldiers had never meant anything good.

Soldiers manned the El Hiblu 1’s bridge as Maltese ships escorted the tanker to a wharf near Valletta, a harbor frequented by luxury cruise liners. As they pulled into port, the migrants could see TV cameras lining the concrete shore. Police were there, too—they supervised as people disembarked and entered Malta via a gangway painted bright yellow.

Bari and Nikavogui stepped off together. As they did, someone told Nikavogui that Bari couldn’t come with her—he would be put in a different vehicle than the one that would take her to a migrant reception center. Only when she saw zip ties being placed around his wrists did she realize that he was being arrested.

Bari and the other two young men who stayed in the cabin with Nader—both minors whose names Maltese authorities have withheld—were soon charged with nine crimes, including seizing a ship, destruction of private property, confining people against their will, forcibly moving people across a border, and issuing threats of violence. Maltese prosecutors added terrorism riders, which carry a life sentence, to two of the charges.

A judge denied the defendants bail, because they had no means to pay it and no established ties in Malta.

Word quickly reached the media that Nader was also under suspicion. The Times of Malta reported that police were “investigating the possibility that the skipper could have ‘misled’ the authorities by claiming he lost control of the vessel.… Investigators are not ruling out that he could have reported such a situation over the radio to be allowed in Maltese waters.” Police, it turned out, had found no damage to the ship or weapons on board.

Was it possible that Nader had wanted to be a good Samaritan but also avoid criminal charges? If so his concern was well founded: According to OpenDemocracy, more than 250 people in 14 European countries have been arrested, charged, or investigated for aiding migrants. Among them are the crews of NGO ships in the Mediterranean. Operation Sophia had introduced a new complication by compelling civilian ships to return people to Libya.

In the Maltese legal system, a magistrate must decide if there is enough evidence to bring a case to trial, based on testimony, forensics, and other materials. In early April, Cedric Mifsud, a defense lawyer, questioned Nader in court. The El Hiblu 1’s first mate demanded to know why he was being treated as a villain.

Cross-examination of Nader El-Hiblu on April 10, 2019, by defense attorney Cedric Mifsud, with magistrate Aaron Bugeja presiding. Recording provided by a source who attended the hearings; Malta has yet to release official transcripts.

AB: Nobody is saying that you are a criminal. You are explaining what happened. You are a witness. I explained to you your rights before you start to testify, not to do harm to yourself. So please, tell the truth, the whole truth, nothing but the truth. That is what you swore before Allah. And this what I expect from you, nothing more, nothing less. Thank you, Mr. El-Hiblu. Continue.

CM: I am suggesting that not from the beginning that you wanted to take them to Malta. You had never any intention to take them to Malta. What I am suggesting to you, when you were just a few miles away from Tripoli, the port, and they found out that you were very close, and the 20 to 25 were protesting with the hammers and the tools and the whatever, you called in these three and said, “We have a problem,” and you discussed this problem.

Prosecution: Objection!

AB: Change question.

CM: I am going to suggest to you that with the Maltese authorities, you escalated, you increased, you told them that the problem was far more serious than it was, because you wanted them to leave your ship.

NEH: How?

CM: I’m going to tell you how you did that. That you told them various times that you had no control of the ship when you always had control of the ship.

NEH: I don’t have control, I don’t have—

CM: You told them that your crew members were injured, and it never had any injured. I am suggesting to you that you told the Maltese authorities that the problem—I’m not saying you didn’t have a problem—the problem is far larger than it actually was, because you wanted to end your problem. That you shift your problem on the Maltese army.

NEH: No.

CM: So tell me why you told— There’s a transcript, and I think there are CDs where we can actually hear you say you have injured crew members. Who was the injured crew member?

NEH: I don’t say it like that.

CM: You don’t say like that?

NEH: I don’t say like that, “I have injured crew members.”

CM: You did not say to the Maltese authorities that you have an injury?

NEH: I didn’t say that I have injured.

CM: So the Maltese army is lying?

Five days after Nader’s testimony, the court ruled that the case against Bari and the teenagers could go to trial. Nader wasn’t charged with any crimes. “From the statements from the crew and the immigrants themselves, we didn’t have any suspicion or any conclusive motive that the crew was involved,” Omar Zammit, lead prosecutor on the case and head of the Maltese police’s counterterrorism unit, told me. Soon after the announcement, the El Hiblu 1 departed Malta for Tripoli. Nader and his brother, the ship’s owner, both declined to be interviewed for this story. I wasn’t able to ask Nader about discrepancies between his testimony and what he said at sea, or between what the migrants remembered and what he claimed on the radio.

For its part, the defense team told me that context is everything with the El Hiblu 1 incident. “The prosecution is treating this as a terrorism case and are ignoring the migration case,” said Neil Falzon, a member of the team. In demanding that they not be taken back to Libya, Falzon explained, the migrants were acting in the sincere interest of their safety. A similar argument has held up in court before: In 2018, the Vos Thalassa, a commercial vessel, was called on to save 67 people off the coast of Libya. At first the crew intended to deliver the rescued group to the Libyan coast guard, but when the migrants protested the crew turned the Vos Thalassa toward Italy. Two people were charged with hijacking the ship but cleared of all charges by an Italian court. The judge wrote that the takeover constituted a “legitimate defense” against the prospect of returning to Libya.

Bari’s lawyers made that point before the Maltese magistrate. Zammit, the prosecutor, dismissed it as preposterous. “This is like saying that when my child is sick, I go to steal to help my child,” he said in court.

I brought up this quote when I interviewed Zammit at Malta’s police headquarters, where lofty marble hallways led us to a large dining hall paneled with stone and wood. Zammit was bald and stocky, and he wore a pressed white shirt. I asked what he would do if his child was sick and he couldn’t afford medicine—would he steal it? Zammit fidgeted in his chair. “I prefer not answer that question,” he said. (This was a common refrain in our interview: Zammit was hesitant to share details about an active case.) A crime is a crime, he continued, though punishment can “be mitigated—that’s fair enough.”

Later, as we walked through one of the building’s regal halls, Zammit came back to my question. “If my son were sick, I would do anything to protect him,” he said. He stopped walking when he spoke and looked me in the eye. He started moving again before concluding, “Still, if it was against the law, I would face the consequences.”

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When I met with Bari, he’d been in Malta for three months. He was behind bars at Corradino Correctional Facility, an imposing stone building that has housed prisoners for more than 150 years. It sits in the center of a small town across the harbor from Valletta, and it was calm when I arrived. In Bari’s block, two floors of cells flank a common area, where a long table and benches sat beneath an arched ceiling. Most cell doors were flung open, allowing prisoners to move around. Large ceiling fans circulated the summer air. It was close to 100 degrees and humid, the kind of heat that sets life in slow motion.

Bari and I met in a room where inmates typically speak to their lawyers. It was cramped, with chipped paint and an old wooden door. Two beat-up office chairs sat on either side of a small table. A top-of-the-line security camera watched us from the ceiling.

I asked about his treatment in the facility. Bari shrugged. “It’s been fine,” he said. “But it’s still prison.” Since the court green-lighted his case for trial, there had been two evidentiary hearings. Three more hearings were scheduled but canceled. As of this writing, the trial itself had yet to be scheduled. One of Bari’s lawyers told me that the case could take years to resolve. Until then, Bari and the two other accused would remain in prison.

As we spoke, Bari was sometimes indignant and angry. In other moments, when talking about family, he cried. I offered more than once to end the interview if it was too much for him, but he insisted on continuing. When trying to remember a specific detail about the El Hiblu 1—the ship’s layout, when and where each event occurred—he squinted his eyes in concentration.

Bari said that he’d thought he could make things better by intervening when they spotted Libya. A group of people were angry and protesting, and he defused the situation. Still, sitting in prison, he regretted the choice. “If I had known what was going to happen,” he said with a sigh, looking at his hands on the empty table, “I would have stayed with my wife.” He missed Nikavogui; Fanta, too.

When Bari talked about Nader, he stood and waved his hands in the air. “He told the judge that he’s not afraid of the three of us in the cabin—he was afraid of everyone outside,” Bari said. “And we’re the terrorists?” He sat down again and rubbed his head, as if for an instant he wasn’t sure what to say or do.

Bari had been surprised to learn that Nader was allowed to leave Malta. “He used us to get out of trouble,” Bari said. He took a breath, and when he spoke again there were long pauses between his words: “He betrayed us.”

“If my son were sick, I would do anything to protect him. Still, if it was against the law, I would face the consequences.”

Limbo is painful, but Bari has allies. In May 2019, the Office of the UN High Commissioner for Human Rights called on Malta to drop the terrorism charges against Bari and his codefendants. A press release noted that some of the migrants saved by the El Hiblu 1 “exhibited clear signs of torture and ill-treatment” from their time in Libya or before. Going back wasn’t a humane option.

In all, 105 people from the rubber dinghy went to an immigration reception center in Marsa, a town across from Valletta’s harbor. They were interviewed by police, seen by doctors, and given the chance to apply for asylum, a process that usually takes between six and eighteen months. After a few weeks, the group dispersed to Malta’s open migrant centers, where residents can come and go freely. Some people in the centers hope to stay in Malta; others want to leave and go to the European mainland. If someone doesn’t apply for asylum, or if their application is denied, they won’t necessarily be deported. Many people remain in Malta and find work in the cash economy. It’s a bureaucratic purgatory: They’re in the country illegally but lack the documentation to leave without being detected. They keep their head down and hope never to be in the wrong place at the wrong time.

I made contact with some of the people rescued by the El Hiblu 1. Many were worried that speaking publicly could jeopardize their legal situation or cause trouble with the police. I met Nikavogui one day at a café near the migrant center where she’s living. She had a strong, matter-of-fact way of speaking but struggled when talking about Bari. When she reached an emotional point in her story, she would trail off and look down, as if searching for her next word somewhere on the floor. A few seconds would pass before she’d raise her head, take a slow breath, and keep talking.

Without Bari, she felt strange, unsafe, and alone. She’d seen him only once since they’d arrived in Malta. Arranging visits in prison, she said, was nearly impossible. She hoped that the court would find him innocent. “I don’t understand what they want,” Nikavogui said. She told me that she still feels panic when she thinks about being at sea. “I thought we were all going to die,” she said.

Victor, the man from Nigeria, said that Malta wasn’t without problems. Just nine days after the El Hiblu 1 docked in the country, a man from Ivory Coast was killed and two others were injured in a drive-by shooting near one of the migrant centers; police arrested two Maltese soldiers in connection with the crime. Still, Victor said, Malta is better than Libya—anything is better than Libya, he added. He was thankful that he didn’t give up on getting to Europe. Two months after we spoke, a migrant detention center near Tripoli, like the one where Victor spent time before finally making it into the dinghy, was hit by an air strike. At least 53 people died; scores more were badly injured.

Mariama, pregnant when the El Hiblu 1 rescued her, gave birth to her second son four days after arriving in Malta. When we met, she wore the infant strapped to her back, swaddled in fabric. Her older son, who was three, sat nearby sipping juice; he’d been saved by the tanker, too.

Mariama told me that she often thinks about Bari and the teenagers in jail. Without them, where would she and her children be? Perhaps in a Libyan detention center. Perhaps on another rubber raft. Perhaps dead. “They aren’t terrorists,” Mariama said of the three men. “They aren’t criminals.”

She doesn’t hold ill will toward the tanker’s crew. “It’s because of them that we are alive,” she said. “Otherwise our boat wouldn’t have lasted another two hours.”

How long did the rubber dinghy survive? According to recordings of marine radio chatter, Operation Sophia tracked the deflating boat and its six passengers late into the evening of March 26. Then the mission’s planes ran low on fuel and were forced to return to their base. An Operation Sophia spokesperson told me that the El Hiblu 1 eventually picked up the remaining migrants—an account contradicted by those actually on board the tanker.

If by some miracle the dinghy made landfall unassisted, the relevant authorities would know. Maltese and Libyan officials told me that the the boat didn’t reach their countries. Frontex, the European border agency, and the Italian coast guard wouldn’t comment on the matter.

It’s as if, when the dinghy blurred to nothing on the Mediterranean horizon one spring afternoon, it vanished forever.