The Gilded Age

Gold mined in the jungles of Peru brought riches to three friends in Miami—but it also carried ruin.

The
Gilded
Age

’Tis gold
Which makes the true man kill’d and saves the thief;
Nay, sometimes hangs both thief and true man: what
Can it not do and undo?

—William Shakespeare, Cymbeline

The Atavist Magazine, No. 111


Scott Eden is an award-winning reporter who has written for ESPN, Wired, GQ, and Men’s Health, among other publications. He is the author of the book Touchdown Jesus: Faith and Fandom at Notre Dame. Listen to Scott on the Creative Nonfiction Podcast, discussing how he reported this story.

Editor: Seyward Darby
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Kate Wheeling
Researchers: Manuel Calloquispe and Steven Cohen
Photographer: Ernesto Benavides

Published in January 2021

Chapter One

THE BABY WAS due at Christmas. It would be her first child. At the stylish ranch house she shared with her husband in the Miami suburbs, on a weekend day in November 2012, guests kept arriving amid explosions of Spanish. Te ves hermosa! How beautiful she looked, they said, as they kissed her on the cheek.

Everyone knew that Iska and her husband, Sam Barrage, did parties well. She must have spent weeks planning the shower. A chef made crepes and a bartender poured mimosas on the terrace by the pool, underneath the palms. Among the visitors were two of Iska and Sam’s closest friends: a married couple, Renato and Miriam Rodriguez. In a way, they were honored guests. Renato, who’d helped Sam put together the baby’s crib, would soon be named godfather. 

The Rodriguezes hadn’t been at the house very long when Sam pulled Renato aside. It was time, he said. The two of them had to leave, right away. Renato knew why.

The two men worked together out of a small office in Doral, Florida, in a building under the glide path of Miami International Airport. Sam was Renato’s boss; Renato was Sam’s trusted second-in-command. They had unusual jobs: find, buy, and import gold—as much gold as they possibly could—from Central and South America. Their office was an outpost of a company based in Texas, and they were new to the precious metals business. Renato had been on the job for almost exactly one year, Sam for a bit longer.

Their fortunes were about to take a dramatic turn. In mineral-rich Peru, they had found a new supplier who appeared to have access to some kind of Andean mother lode. The supplier’s first shipment was arriving the Monday after the baby shower. Accustomed to handling gold from pawnshops and jewelry wholesalers—10, 20, 40 kilograms at most in a given transaction—Sam and Renato now had coming to them 120 kilograms of freshly mined gold. It was a huge score for the two friends. The price of gold stood at $1,715 per troy ounce, not far from an all-time high. They’d done the math. The shipment from Peru was worth $6.6 million.

They kissed their wives goodbye. In Renato’s Ford SUV they drove off, leaving some awkwardness in their wake. According to guests at the shower, Iska was “unhappy” and “not thrilled” that Sam left. Then again, Iska understood that her husband’s job was the reason they had what they did.

Renato and Sam were headed to their office, but first they had to go shopping. At the Harbor Freight hardware store on U.S. 1, they spent $395.89 on a heavy-duty stand-up drill press. They loaded the machine into the SUV and drove it to Doral. Their office amounted to a few bland rooms and a garage with a loading dock. An electrician was waiting for them. This was the only day he was available to install the drill so that it would be ready in time for the arrival of the Peruvian gold.

That Monday, an armored truck delivered four small wooden crates, each the size of a boot box. With the claw of a hammer and a small crowbar, Sam and Renato pried open one of the lids. They stared down, spellbound. Glowing there inside the crate, sending its aureate light up into the men’s faces, was the gold. It took the form of doré bars. Rough, unpolished, unrefined—doré is recently mined metal that has been melted down, sometimes right at the mining site, and molded into crude bricks of irregular size and shape. Unlike the smooth, spotless bullion found in bank vaults and heist movies, doré is coarse, pocked, scaly. It’s like something discovered in the belly of a galleon after 500 years at the bottom of the sea.

Renato picked up one of the bars. The heft surprised him. He turned it over in his hands. Alone it was worth “about $200K,” he recalled much later, in one of the many emails he sent to me from his cellblock in federal prison. “I was in awe of it.”

The friends transferred the bars into the garage, where the electrician had set up the drill. Before paying the Peruvian supplier in full, they needed to make sure they weren’t getting scammed. This was how the gold business worked: Upon receiving a shipment, they took samples and assayed the purity. Normally, they melted gold in a small crucible and extracted samples from the burbling magma, but the sheer quantity of doré in the crates required heavy equipment. 

Renato and Sam took turns placing the bars under the drill. The bit sunk into the soft metal “like frozen butter,” Renato recalled. They drilled holes into each bar in an X pattern, from one corner to the other, then flipped the doré over and did the same thing on the other side. This produced a pile of gold flakes that were submitted to the scrutiny of a tabletop X-ray machine. Sample after sample, the machine showed levels of 95 to 98 percent Au. Almost pure gold.   

Satisfied, Renato and Sam packed the bricks into reinforced containers made for transporting precious metals, locked the lids shut, and watched as the armored truck carried the gold away. It was bound for a refinery in Ohio, owned by the company they worked for. There the doré would be melted down in cauldrons with gold from other sources, sent through a series of pipes and vats and chemical solutions, and refined into lustrous bars that were 99.99 percent pure—“four nines,” as they say in the business. Those would be sold to a roster of buyers, chiefly banks, which in turn would sell them to other buyers, dispersing the gold into a complex network of commodities exchanges and futures clearinghouses and bullion depositories, along with the ledgers of hedge funds and mutual funds and the central banks of many nations.

Out of a low-slung, nondescript office in Doral, Sam and Renato had effectively baptized the Peruvian substance into the global financial system. That same day, they wired payment to the supplier, whose company was registered with Peru’s tax authority under an unusual name: Minerales la Mano de Dios. The Hand of God.

Who was Pedro Pérez Miranda? No one, really. He was Peter Ferrari.

THERE WAS a catch. (There’s always a catch.)

A few weeks prior to the shipment’s arrival, when Mano de Dios first offered to sell them gold, Sam and Renato learned the identity of the person behind the company. Linked to narcotics trafficking, he’d done time in prison. He was someone Sam and Renato had been told they shouldn’t do business with, ever. His name was Pedro David Pérez Miranda, but they also knew him by the anglicized alias that had already appeared in thousands upon thousands of pages of investigative documents generated over the years by the Peruvian government. It was the pseudonym by which everyone he knew knew him.

Who was Pedro Pérez Miranda? No one, really. He was Peter Ferrari.

Criminal or not, Ferrari had access to a lot of gold. According to Renato, he and Sam rationalized: What people don’t know won’t hurt them. If a tree falls and no one’s around, does it really make a sound? They were just doing the job they were hired to do, growing the business. Rumors about narco-trafficking were just that—rumors. If they didn’t buy Ferrari’s gold, someone else would. They stood to make a lot of money, and to make sure their families never had any financial worries. Who throws away a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity? Surely they could mitigate any risks.

So they decided to lie. The friends assembled the materials needed for their employer to approve a supplier, making double, triple sure a certain name did not appear anywhere in the file. The listed owner of Mano de Dios was a testaferro (figurehead) named Miguel Ángel Martínez Napuri. For good measure, Renato wrote up a short report saying that he had met with Napuri and spoken with him about “business”—a complete fiction. They emailed the materials to their company’s compliance director, Steve Crogan, for approval on November 6, 2012.

Crogan replied by email two days later. “How could we possibly find anything wrong with a company by this name,” he cracked. “If we denied, we’d be dodging lightning bolts from above! On a serious note, all appears in order.”

Renato recalled what happened next: “We rolled with it!” He added, “At this point we did not know, or at least I did not know, where [Ferrari] was getting his gold from.”

If only it were so simple.

Renato and Sam were hard at work, getting their hands dirty in the garden of cultivated ignorance. What they didn’t know—or didn’t want to know—was that the place Mano de Dios’s gold came from had been transformed into a hell on earth.


IN 1511, the king of Spain gave his New World explorers an order: Get gold, humanely if possible, but at all costs get gold. Humanely was not how it happened.

When gold was discovered on Hispaniola, the native population was forced into serfdom to mine it. Within a few decades, the Taino people had been almost completely “exterminated in the gold mines, in the deadly task of sifting auriferous sands with their bodies half submerged in water,” writes Eduardo Galeano in his seminal book Open Veins of Latin America. Rather than carry on, some of the enslaved people killed their children and then themselves. Francisco Pizarro’s men entered the Temple of the Sun in Cuzco, the Incan capital in modern-day Peru, and melted down breathtaking works of high-karat art because bars were easier to stack and transport back to Spain. Hernán Cortés did the same after he captured the Aztec treasure house. “They crave gold like hungry swine,” one Aztec observer said of European invaders. A conquistador named Hernán de Quesada, whose brother founded Bogotá almost incidentally while searching for El Dorado, also set off in search of the mythical golden city, taking 6,000 captured natives into the jungles and mountains of what is now Colombia. None survived.

Gold wasn’t the only metal the Spanish wanted. In Quechua, the language of the Inca, the mountain was called Sumaj Orko, “beautiful hill”—a perfectly shaped conical peak made almost entirely of silver that sits in present-day Bolivia. In 1573, colonists began conscripting indigenous people to toil in the mountain’s shafts, working under a form of forced labor known as the mita system. “It was common to bring them out dead or with broken heads and legs,” wrote a contemporary observer. The biggest boomtown in world history, Potosí, grew at the foot of Sumaj Orko; its population at one point rivaled Paris’s. Up to eight million people, many of them children, are estimated to have died working in Potosí’s mines.

Spain was merely a middleman for all the blood metal. The crown used its colonial spoils to pay off the massive debts it had accumulated in Europe’s banking houses. Gold and other precious metals financed the late Renaissance and, next, the industrial revolution. 

The pillaging continued, bringing with it other forms of cruelty. In the 18th century, the miners who came to the Minas Gerais region of Brazil during a gold rush were also slave traders; they preferred buying their human beings from the West African slave port of Ouidah, because the people sold there were said to possess magical powers for divining the richest sources of gold. In 1886, after gold was discovered in Tierra del Fuego, a European engineer orchestrated a genocide there, exterminating the Selk’nam people, hunter-gatherers who had lived in the region for millennia. In the 20th century, General Augusto Pinochet abolished the rights of mine workers in Chile’s lucrative high-desert gold and copper pits. Vladimiro Montesinos, Peru’s murderous spy chief, allegedly took bribes from multinational mining corporations to help them secure control of Yanacocha, which in the 1990s was the world’s most productive gold mine.

By then a new kind of colonist had emerged in Peru. On foot, they came down from the Altiplano, from some of the poorest places on earth, migrating to low-lying rainforests where they’d heard gold was in the ground. They hoped that the tools and skills their forebears had used since time immemorial—shovels, portable sluice boxes—would help them find wealth.

They came to a remote department in the country’s southeast called Madre de Dios—Mother of God—that was covered almost entirely with dense jungle. In time, the new colonists earned enough money to rent heavy equipment. They could dig faster. There were no laws to stop them; squatter’s rights ruled. You took what you wanted. The miners began tearing down forests, clearing the way to search for the glittering flakes that could change a man’s life forever. Or end it.

A portrait of Alfredo Vracko Neuenschwander, better known as Don Alfredo.

THERE ONCE WAS a sawyer who lived in the rainforest. His name was Alfredo Vracko Neuenschwander, but everyone called him Don Alfredo. He grew up in Madre de Dios. His father, also a logger, was an immigrant from Slovenia, but Don Alfredo treated the forest like he was a native. He took from it only what he and his family—a wife, a daughter, and two sons—needed to survive.

Don Alfredo was tall and slim, and he wore black horn-rimmed glasses that made him look like an Apollo mission engineer. His timber concession, which he obtained in 1975, was located in a part of Madre de Dios called La Pampa. To the west was the high sierra. To the east was the jungle, vaporous and immense. Don Alfredo and his family lived in a small compound—a house and a handful of outbuildings—in a one-hectare clearing he’d hacked out of the jungle. The roofs were thatch. There was no electricity. He’d built everything himself out of the wood—achihua, pashaco, copal, tornillo—found on the roughly 6,000 acres of his concession. His sawmill consisted of wooden poles propping up a metal roof over a large circular saw and an ancient planer manufactured by the American Saw Mill Machinery Co., in Hackettstown, New Jersey. Nearby was an orchard of yucca, papaya, banana, and cupuaçu, a football-shaped fruit with meat prized for its pear-like taste. Fat boas slid under the fruit trees. Flocks of oropendola birds shrieked in the canopy alongside howler monkeys.

For the better part of a decade, starting in 2007, Don Alfredo tried to save his land and the rest of La Pampa from informal gold mining. It was then, and remains today, an industry of wildcatters: people who don’t pay taxes, who don’t bother to seek government licenses or perform environmental-impact studies, who just start digging. Informal mining accounts for as much as 20 percent of the world’s newly extracted gold. In other words, up to one-fifth of the global gold business, worth more than $30 billion a year, according to some estimates, is a black market. And like all black markets, the illegal gold trade is vulnerable to the whole range of organized iniquity: bribery, human trafficking, money laundering, murder for hire, terrorism. The South American gold business is particularly fraught with these dangers, the Peruvian one perhaps most of all. It’s the kind of place, in the words of one industry participant, “where you can do everything right and still get in trouble.” 

No one knew the ugly side of Madre de Dios better than Don Alfredo. On a sunny November day in 2015, he waited for the authorities to arrive. At his behest, they’d scheduled an interdiction—the Peruvian National Police would go into the jungle, find a mining site that Don Alfredo had recently reported, chase off or arrest the miners, and destroy their equipment with explosives. 

Afternoon turned into evening. The police were delayed. The setting sun flared off the nearby Guacamayo, a stream that runs into the Rio Inambari, which flows into the Rio Madre de Dios (from which the region takes its name), which runs into the Beni, which joins the Mamore, which feeds into the Madeira—a tributary, at last, of the Amazon. Don Alfredo stood on the balcony of his home, listening for the sounds of arrival: the motors of police vehicles turning into his driveway off the Interoceanic Highway, which stretched from Rio de Janeiro to Peru’s Pacific coast. Completed a few years prior, the highway had transformed a series of rude dirt tracks and ancient footpaths into a modern thoroughfare navigable by trucks and heavy equipment, easing the way for miners to infiltrate ever more deeply into Madre de Dios.

Don Alfredo almost certainly would have heard the motorcycles approach, their rumble fainter than the phalanx of police vehicles he’d expected. The two bikes appeared on his property, carrying four riders. The men stopped in the driveway and dismounted. They were carrying guns and wearing black balaclavas. 

Don Alfredo opened his mouth to scream.

An aerial view of the ecological devastation at a mining site in Madre de Dios.

Chapter Two

RENATO RODRIGUEZ GAVE Sam Barrage his first job. It was 1999, and Renato was working in the loan industry in Miami. A transplant from the Sunset Park neighborhood of Brooklyn, he’d started out at Florida Title Loans, a company that lent money to people willing to put up their cars as collateral. If you missed a payment, you lost the title. Renato was basically a repo man, and he didn’t like it. He would come home from work and tell his wife, Miriam, “I tried so hard to talk this guy out of doing the loan. But what can I do? He was hell-bent.”

So Renato had quit that job and taken one with a company called Beneficial Finance, another lender of last resort. Its interest rates were high—25 percent—but at least it didn’t repossess cars. Renato thrived. Six feet tall, strong but getting thick in the middle, he had a kind face and a teddy bear vibe. He was good with people. He rose through the ranks to branch manager, then district manager.

He’d initially gotten into loans because he hoped to save money to open his own business. It had been his dream to own a restaurant ever since he made pies as a teenager at a pizza joint in New York, where he was raised by hard-working Ecuadoran immigrants; they’d held the same jobs—laundryman and cleaner, respectively—at a Brooklyn hospital for 40 years. But the more Renato earned at Beneficial Finance, the more his restaurant fantasy faded. “Things were going really, really well,” Miriam recalled. Eventually the couple had twin daughters, and Renato’s income meant that Miriam could focus on raising them. “We could take Disney trips with the girls. We’d go up to New York to visit,” she said. “We were living comfortably.” 

When Samer Hadi Barrage came in for his job interview at Beneficial Finance, Renato was impressed. Sam had cosmopolitan charm—he’d grown up in London, the son of aristocratic Lebanese parents. His father was a high-powered banker and sent his sons to Stowe, a boarding school on a former ducal estate in Buckinghamshire. Sam’s path to university and then to some posh profession in a world capital seemed all but assured until his parents divorced. When his mother remarried, it was to an American physician, and she and her sons moved to the doctor’s hometown in, of all places, Macon, Georgia. Sam went to Mercer University and had just graduated when he interviewed with Renato. (Sam declined to comment for this story.)

They were from different worlds, but Renato and Sam hit it off. They were a distinctive pair: the Brooklyn kid, the London swell. They hung out, played golf, went to ball games; they hawked high-interest loans. Over the years, their families grew close. Sam married and had a son. Then a strikingly beautiful woman came to work at Beneficial. Her name was Iska. Sam got divorced and married her. They all hawked loans.

In time, the multinational bank HSBC swallowed up Beneficial Finance, and the friends’ roles in the business evolved. Instead of lending $2,500 at 25 percent, they sold customers second mortgages. “Then first mortgages. Then subprime mortgages. Then subprime mortgages with just stated incomes,” a former coworker said. “People were using their house like a piggy bank. At the time, everybody thought it was going to go on forever.” It didn’t, of course. In 2007, the financial crisis swept the world. A year later, the friends were looking for work.

After a stint selling cell phone contracts for T-Mobile, Renato landed a job as a branch manager at Wells Fargo—while representatives of the company were engaged in vast account fraud that wouldn’t come to light for several more years. Sure enough, according to Renato, his bosses pressured him to “do unethical sales.” (He told me he refused.) It was another port of call in what was becoming a career-long voyage through the squalor of American finance.

Renato wanted out of Wells Fargo. He knew that Sam had found an interesting gig in the gold business. He begged his friend to hire him, to rescue him from the muck. In November 2011, they were reunited. This time, though, Sam was the boss.

Sam cornered the Loftus brothers and pitched them an idea: There’s a lot of gold in South America—let me, a fluent Spanish speaker, go get it for you.

A MONTH AFTER he was hired, Renato’s new employer, NTR Metals, flew him to Dallas for the company’s infamous Christmas bash. Held at the Omni Hotel, the party had a casino theme, with felt tables where employees won chips they could cash in for expensive prizes. The bar and its top shelf were open. At the center of the festivities were two brothers, Steve and John Loftus.

The Loftuses had got their start in low-income residential real estate—“Maybe a step up from slumlord? Maybe a half-step?” one former employee said—and then spun their profits into a closely held empire of gold. In 2003, they launched an industrial recycling business focused on decommissioned jet engines, which could be stripped for the surprisingly large quantities of precious metals woven into their guts. With hand tools, the Loftuses tore the engines apart themselves. Soon they had a company that bought items from pawnshops and jewelry stores at a discount, melted them down, and resold the amalgamated metal at a higher price.

The brothers sold most of their gold to Metalor, a major refining company, but the Loftuses held on to some of what they bought. They were making a bet, and that bet was that the price of gold would rise. In January 2003, gold cost $342.20 a troy ounce. The Loftuses doubled down, amassing their long position. They got richer. By 2010, they’d expanded their business into a nationwide chain of storefronts, which they called NTR, for North Texas Refinery. Each store bought scrap gold locally and sent it to the Dallas headquarters. Two years later, the price of a troy ounce was at $1,600, which meant the Loftuses’ initial bet had paid off nearly fivefold. That April, they bought Ohio Precious Metals (OPM), one of the few gold refineries in the United States. It was in the small town of Jackson, Ohio, in a building where the fungi used in Campbell’s cream of mushroom soup was once cultivated. NTR was buying so much gold, and planning to buy so much more, that it wanted its own refinery. The Loftuses’ businesses were eventually organized into a conglomerate, called Elemetal LLC. (The Loftuses declined multiple requests for comment.)

Sam Barrage played a key role in the brothers’ grand aims. Sometime after the HSBC layoffs, Iska had found a job managing the NTR store in Miami. As a plus-one at the company’s Christmas party in 2010, Sam cornered the Loftus brothers and pitched them an idea: There’s a lot of gold in South America—let me, a fluent Spanish speaker, go get it for you. Within a month, Sam was hired as NTR’s vice president of sales for Latin America, or, as the company sometimes called it, LATAM. The LATAM venture was based out of NTR Miami, which was already stocked with Iska’s friends and family. Her father, Cesar, handled the smelting and assaying. Cesar’s assistant was his son, Iska’s brother, Alfonso. Their sister, Maria, was the office receptionist. A family friend worked as Sam’s assistant. Sam hired one of his old mates from Stowe to go around the Caribbean looking for scrap-gold sellers.

And now Renato was there—bilingual and with South American roots. A real asset. His job was to find suppliers. At first he felt “kind of lost,” Renato recalled. “I really never got any training, so I faked it till I made it.” He typed “gold buyer” and “we buy gold” into Google along with the name of a country. At first he scoured for suppliers on Caribbean islands such as Trinidad and the Dominican Republic. He called the phone numbers that Google spat out—Santo Domingo pawnshops and Port of Spain secondhand-jewelry dealers. But NTR’s true goal was conquering the South American landmass. According to one former employee, the directive from on high was always clear: “Steve [Loftus] said, ‘OK, here’s a map. Get every damn ounce out of Latin America you can. I don’t care if it’s mined or scrap—anything.’”  

From left: Juan Granda, Renato Rodriguez, and Sam Barrage in Lima, in 2014.

GROUND METAL is industry lingo for mined gold, which is purer and worth more than gold that’s already been fashioned into a necklace or the gilding on the rim of a porcelain dinner plate. Ground metal is handled first by people called collectors—middlemen who indiscriminately buy up gold from any source willing to sell, then melt it down, cast it into bars, and sell it for a profit. Collectors are really traders, way stations levying tolls on the mineral’s economic journey. Collectors sell to other collectors, bigger ones, which export directly to the likes of NTR.

Renato and Sam hit on a strategy: U.S. imports are a matter of public record. Why not pore over the data and look for names of foreign exporters that had recently shipped large amounts of gold to America? Then they’d attempt to persuade those exporters to work with them, ditching whatever company they’d traded with before for better terms with NTR.

They called it “sales,” and their suppliers “customers,” even though they were the ones doing the buying. Competition was stiff. Companies from Switzerland, Italy, China, and India buy gold in South America. Miami had long been a major gold-importing hub, especially from points south, with several companies duking it out for dominance. Republic Metals was the biggest and oldest player in the business. Kaloti Metals and Logistics was an offshoot of a Dubai-based company owned by a Palestinian family. There was also Universal Precious Metals, just around the corner from NTR in Doral. Speed fueled the rivalry—the importer that could pay a supplier fastest got its business—and volume was the prize. The gold business has such wafer-thin margins (less than 1 percent) that buyers need a constant, massive inflow of gold to thrive.

Using the import database, Renato began landing customers in Guatemala City, Panama City, Quito, and La Paz. He befriended his clients, deploying the people skills that had helped him in the loan industry. “This is my best trait,” he said. “This was the part of the job I loved.” He was invited into family homes, to meals cooked by abuelas, to the weddings of customers’ children.

Peru was the holy grail, the most gold-rich nation in South America. Renato heard about a distant “mining region” across the mountains from Lima. “There was a ton of gold there,” he said. But he didn’t go to this region, whatever it was called. He met potential clients in the capital, where he stayed in the upscale Miraflores district, at international chain hotels with perfumed lobbies and rooms that overlooked the Pacific.


ONE DAY IN 2007, Don Alfredo was deep in the jungle working on his timber concession, selecting trees for possible harvest, when he heard the rumble of machinery in the distance. Some days later, he assembled a small group of local officials to go see what they could already smell—the acrid aroma of controlled burns. They followed the Guacamayo and soon saw proof: a gelatinous substance as gray as ash under their feet, sucking at their boots. “This is shit,” said one of the officials. Everyone knew what the sludge meant. It was created by high-pressure hoses liquefying the forest floor. The gold miners had arrived.

La Pampa’s thickly forested peatlands contain huge quantities of alluvial gold. Millions of years ago, now vanished rivers spalled the mountain faces, dissolved veins of exposed mineral, and carried the treasure down into the plains. This left deposits of gold in the beds of rivers and streams and beneath the thin rainforest topsoil. Rarely did the gold take the form of nuggets. Most often it accumulated as auriferous sands—gold dust.

Once upon a time, a miner might have dipped a pan into a river and swirled it around. With any luck the bottom would sparkle and flash. But that kind of low-impact, storybook mining ended long ago. By the time they arrived on Don Alfredo’s land, miners were taking a much more invasive approach. First they would clear a hectare or so in the jungle by slashing and burning. Then, using the nearest creek, lagoon, or river as a water source, they would blast the ground with hoses and pump the resulting mud to the top of a sluice—a structure resembling a playground slide—made from the wood of felled trees. The mud went down the ramp, which was lined with fibers that captured small particles, including gold flakes. Then the miners poured the mud caught in the carpet into barrels and added a dash of liquid mercury, which adheres to gold, weighing it down so it’s easier to extract. After they removed the gold, the miners dumped everything else.

Madre de Dios’s mining bonanza was fueled by the rising price of gold. It was an old story: mining, men, gold, cash, cantinas, brothels, women. Miners lived close to where they worked, in camps that expanded into shantytowns with names like Lamal, Zorro Valencia, and Boca Colorado. Some became bush favelas of 1,000 people or more. Along the Interoceanic Highway in La Pampa, not far from Don Alfredo’s home, a city in all but name developed. It had street grids, electricity from gasoline generators, day care centers and schools, markets and cafés. Makeshift businesses drew workers from the destitute villages of the Andean plateau, where more than half the population lived in poverty. A street known as the Pharaoh’s Gate led to an arcade of “prostibars.” (It’s well documented thatunderage girls are trafficked into the brothels of Madre de Dios.)

Mine laborers went into debt to their bosses, then indentured servitude. Mysterious figures arrived in the region, bands of conspicuously armed men, “criminal elements who put the lives of those of us who oppose the destruction of our forests at risk,” in the words of Don Alfredo, “characters who have even gone so far as to threaten the lives of neighbors.” 

Freddy Vracko at his father’s sawmill.

I STOOD NEXT TO Don Alfredo’s sawmill late one afternoon in January 2020, with his son Freddy Vracko. Freddy was 41 and an aspiring politician. On the previous Sunday, Peru had held its national congressional elections, in which Freddy ran on a resource sustainability platform. But in Peru, and especially in Madre de Dios, mining interests are powerful. Freddy had lost.

We toured the sawmill and house, and Freddy told me the story of his father’s activism. As the leader of a small foresters’ association, Don Alfredo had brokered peace in numerous conflicts between farmers and loggers, and between large- and small-scale timber operations. He saw himself as a guardian of the forest, a practitioner of silviculture, a manager of a sacred resource. The day he discovered the miners, he became something more. They were invading his land and his neighbors’, and not just timber concessions but also the nearby Tambopata National Reserve, a protected area of more than 1,000 square miles. The stakes, Don Alfredo believed, were existential.

He made himself a nuisance among local officials in Puerto Maldonado, the capital of Madre de Dios. He haunted the hallways of ministries and sub-ministries. He traveled to Lima, where he tracked down a series of mandarins to badger. In meetings people nodded in sympathy, and then, in the weeks and months that followed, they did nothing. Don Alfredo filed lawsuits and made denunciations. He penned letters to government councils. “There has been a systemic usurpation of these forests,” he wrote in 2008. “Our Federation has … banged on the doors of every relevant institution in the region, without any result to date, which only encourages more and more people to engage in this predatory activity.”

What he wanted was a declaration of a state of emergency. What he wanted was a military intervention. What he wanted were stronger laws. At worst, miners faced fines for exploiting protected areas. Don Alfredo wanted them prosecuted. “It is of urgent importance that the Regional Council take action … and order the removal of the informal miners who are pillaging and contaminating the forests of our region,” he wrote. It didn’t help his cause that parts of Madre de Dios’s government were in league with his foes. Elected officials became miners; miners got themselves voted into office.

Meanwhile, they came in waves into Don Alfredo’s concession. Sometimes he succeeded in driving them out. On one such occasion, in February 2011, he learned that around 30 miners had entered his land. The macheteros, the mentasked with clearing the forest,had just started their hacking and burning. Don Alfredo went around to his neighbors and mustered some 200 people to join him in expelling the miners. They marched through the jungle, following the smell of smoke to the mining site.

When they arrived, most of the miners scattered into the jungle. The ones who remained protested the group’s arrival on legal grounds. In a small clearing, the two sides engaged in a heated debate on the finer points of Peruvian mining law. Don Alfredo had brought along his lawyer—Freddy. Some years earlier, he had sent his elder son to law school in Lima.

The back-and-forth soon ended. Don Alfredo shouted to his militia of neighbors to raze the shanties the miners had erected for their camp. At that moment, according to Freddy, one of the miners charged at Don Alfredo. The man had a machete in his hand. Freddy saw him and let out a shout, then ran at the attacker.

Hearing the commotion, Don Alfredo looked up. He recognized the man closing in fast, blade raised, eyes wild with fury. The miner was his brother.

Trash and pollution left by illegal miners.

Chapter Three

BUSINESS IN PERU was slow at first. Renato wasn’t landing the kind of clients he wanted, game-changing ones that would raise NTR’s profile in the gold industry and earn him big bonuses. Then, one day in the late summer of 2012, three men came to the office in Doral for a meeting. Renato wasn’t there, but Sam was, and Renato said his friend recounted it to him after the fact. One of the men introduced himself as Alexander Calvo, a Lima attorney who represented a gold-exporting firm. His client, Calvo said, which went by the comically generic name Business Investments, had a lot of gold to sell—up to 155 kilograms per week. To put it in perspective, that volume would add up to roughly a third of the annual yield of the Goldstrike mineral complex in Nevada, one of the world’s most productive gold mines. All ears, Sam told Calvo that he was interested in doing business. 

Before they were allowed to make any kind of deal with a supplier, though, Sam and Renato needed the blessing of Steve Crogan, NTR’s compliance director. Crogan was an old hand in the gold import-export trade. According to Renato, getting his approval could be an exasperating process. A hardheaded New Englander with the accent to prove it, Crogan had spent more than 30 years at U.S. customs, most of it as a special agent in the law enforcement division. He’d left in 2007 and moved into the private sector, working remotely out of an office in Rhode Island, which, not incidentally, was once the country’s largest jewelry manufacturing center; the area remains an important gold-refining hub. Recruited to NTR by John Loftus, Crogan had previously worked as head of the anti-money-laundering division of Metalor, which had its U.S. refinery just down the road from his house. For Metalor before and NTR now, Crogan used his contacts and skills to vet gold suppliers around the world. His job was to serve as a gatekeeper, preventing NTR from buying gold of dubious origin or from suppliers with criminal records. Once he approved a supplier, Crogan would conduct periodic reviews of their business, on the hunt for red flags.  

Crogan cut a constabulary figure. He was never not seen in khakis and an Oxford button-down shirt. Always wary, he sounded like a cop. “There are no coincidences” he liked to say. Renato and Sam joked that Crogan reminded them of the humorless ex-CIA father played by Robert De Niro in Meet the Parents.

Crogan rejected the Business Investments account. In an email dated August 6, 2012, he explained why. A perusal of the documents Sam had submitted—corporate filings with various Peruvian ministriesrevealed that Business Investments had three owners: Alexander Edison Calvo Quiroz, Alberto David Miranda Pando, and one Pedro David Pérez Miranda. That third name had resonated with Crogan. If this was the guy he thought it was, NTR couldn’t buy gold from him. The Pérez Miranda whom Crogan knew had been convicted of tax fraud and accused of laundering money for narco-traffickers. He was a scam artist without rival in Peru, and possibly the hemisphere.

That’s how Sam and Renato first learned about Peter Ferrari.

Pedro Pérez Miranda, aka Peter Ferrari, as seen on Peruvian state TV.

IN 1973, Peru’s tax authority created an ad campaign centered on a cartoon character named Pepe el Vivo, which loosely translates as “Sneaky Joe.” He was supposed to represent a devious tax evader. Today, Peruvians use the name to describe “a person who tries to get ahead in any way possible,” as one Lima resident put it, “but not in a good way.” Peter Pérez Miranda, aka Peter Ferrari, was the ultimate Pepe el Vivo.

Born in Lima in 1960, he came from a family of cambistas (money changers), whose houses formed an essential market for hard currency in a nation with a sprawling informal economy—today that economy still generates almost 20 percent of Peru’s GDP. Money changers have a history of performing another service: laundering the profits of illicit trades. Over the years, Ferrari’s family went from being street vendors to running an exchange house with an office on Avenue La Paz, the heart of Lima’s gold and money-changing district. By the late 1970s, narco-dollars were flowing out of Peru’s north. Ferrari and his family began chartering small planes to fly to high-altitude jungle towns: Tingo María, Pucallpa, Tocache, Uchiza. The towns were situated in some of Peru’s most prolific coca-growing regions—verdant, mountainous lands veiled in mists and ribboned with waterfalls. Hidden there were labs that produced cocaine paste, a raw material sold primarily to Colombians, who refined it into powder and smuggled it into the United States.

Because the narcotics business ran on U.S. dollars, the villages were awash in greenbacks; the need to launder the dirty money, and the fact that supply outstripped demand, drove the local exchange rate down to as little as half of what it was in Lima.From cambistas in the mountains, Ferrari’s family purchased so-called dólares negros (black dollars), bricks of American cash they flew back to the capital and sold at a higher price. Everybody won: The jungle deals made for a good currency-arbitrage trade, and all the dirty cocaine cash was effectively laundered. Ferrari’s family got rich.

In the 1990s, Peru’s version of the Drug Enforcement Administration, which goes by the acronym Dirandro, began tracing the family’s connections to the narco-economy. In investigative documents, Dirandro alleged that Ferrari had drifted from laundering drug profits to investing directly in the business of selling cocaine paste. Among the people linked to him were leaders of the Cartel del Norte del Valle (the Cartel of the North Valley), which wasn’t one organization but a fractious assortment of them; its chiefs were Diego Montoya, aka Don Diego, now serving a 45-year sentence in U.S. federal prison, and Arcángel Montoya—no relation to Don Diego—who before he was arrested for his crimes lived in a lavish hacienda where he liked to receive visitors while undergoing exotic beauty-care treatments. And there was Victor Mejía, aka Chespirito, shot to death by the Colombian National Police in 2008. Dirandro agents alleged that Ferrari also laundered money for Peruvian compatriots. There was Fernando Zevallos, owner of the commercial airline AeroContinente, which carried cocaine paste in the holds of its 737s. There was the Cachique Rivera clan, one of whose leaders was sentenced to life in prison for selling guns to the terrorist group Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path). And there was Demetrio Chavez Peñaherrera, aka El Vaticano, who allegedly sold paste to none other than Pablo Escobar.

Gold was always part of the picture. According to government documents, Ferrari set up a series of empresas fachada (front companies), including at least one focused on metal trading,and used them “for laundering money derived from narcotrafficking.” Gold is a venerable, fungible medium for cleansing illicit financial gains. Buy it with dirty money, sell it for clean—once it’s melted down, gold seeps into the economy, every atom untraceably the same. Sometimes the gold doesn’t even need to be real. Escobar’s cartel famously used fake gold transactions in Los Angeles to launder more than a billion dollars.

In 1999, Peruvian law enforcement went after Ferrari for a scam that was tax fraud and money laundering rolled into one. A recent decree by Alberto Fujimori, then the country’s dictator, gave mineral exporters tax rebates on ore sold overseas. Ferrari exploited this by selling hunks of nickel and lead “bathed” in gold to complicit partners in Europe and the United States. Exporting his fool’s gold, Ferrari pocketed Fujimori’s rebates. Meanwhile, through his front companies, Ferrari was selling actual gold, almost all of it informally mined, to refiners overseas. If that wasn’t enough, Ferrari was allegedly buying gold from Metalor—the refinery the Loftus brothers would use before they acquired their own—with narco-dollars. The courier who traveled to the United States and transported gold on his person back to Lima was José “Pepe” Morales, one of Ferrari’s most loyal henchmen.

Gold in, gold out—the snake was eating its tail.

Peruvian law enforcement accused Ferrari of cleaning $21.6 million in cocaine profits over an eight-month period, and Fujimori was said to be furious. “The pressure was strong every day,” an officer who worked the case told me. The government “wanted results—arrestos, arrestos, arrestos.” The police made their move, but Ferrari wasn’t home when they arrived to haul him in. They traced his cell phone and began a three-day chase from Lima south to Tacna on the Chilean border, then north to Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca, and finally to a hamlet on the border with Bolivia. Anxious that Ferrari would slip out of the country before they could reach him, officers at one point gained ground by enlisting a local cop to drive them in his souped-up Toyota—the man happened to be a part-time race-car driver. With the officers white-knuckling the doorframes, the driver raced along guardrail-deficient Andean two-lane roads, through switchbacks that hugged 3,000-foot precipices. A four-hour journey took three. The officers went to the fanciest hotel in town. They barged through the door of a guest room and arrested Ferrari, who was reclining in bed dressed only in his Calvin Kleins. “I guess I have lost,” he said. It was June 1999.

Ferrari went to prison maintaining that he was innocent, or mostly innocent anyway. He copped to the tax fraud and the informal gold sales but insisted he didn’t launder money for cartels. He claimed Fujimori had set him up. There might have been a kernel of truth to what he said. Jorge Dominguez, a police investigator familiar with Ferrari’s career, once heard a story centered on Fujimori’s spy chief, Vladimiro Lenin Ilich Montesinos. In spite of his name, Montesinos was right-wing, cast in the Latin American despot mold. He kept blackmail files on friends and enemies alike. He oversaw death squads and torture chambers. He had cozy relations with both drug cartels and the CIA. According to the story Dominguez heard, Montesinos demanded money from Ferrari in exchange for protection. When Ferrari said no, the spy chief ginned up the narco-trafficking charges and had him put away.

After leaked tape recordings revealed the extent of his bribery, bringing down Montesinos and Fujimori with him, a judge tossed out the narcotics charges against Ferrari, citing lack of evidence. A high-ranking government minister I spoke to asserted that Ferrari paid off the judge. The authorities were forced to return the money it had seized from him: $2.5 million. According to Dominguez, Ferrari told investigators that he used the cash to get back into the gold business.

Meanwhile, for its dealings with Ferrari, Metalor was prosecuted in U.S. federal court. The company as a whole—but none of its executives or employees—pleaded guilty to a money-laundering charge. Nowhere in the short, vague indictment, or in Metalor’s proffer of guilt, does the name Peter Ferrari or Pedro Pérez Miranda or José “Pepe” Morales appear. Just a mention of “some South American companies.” Metalor had to forfeit more than $3 million, including profits earned during the period in which the court said it had knowingly engaged in illegal transactions.

The investigation that led to that court case was conducted by Immigration and Customs Enforcement, better known as ICE. And it was supervised by a special agent in the Boston bureau named Steven F. Crogan.  

The plan was to never meet or know or lay eyes on Peter Ferrari. The plan was to forget that he even existed.

MORE THAN A decade later, after Crogan deep-sixed the Business Investments account at NTR, Renato realized that, in the Peruvian gold business, Peter Ferrari was both everywhere and nowhere.

In October 2012, he submitted approval materials to Crogan for a supplier called LERN United Metals Corp. As part of the compliance review, a cursory Google search of the owner’s name revealed that he was Ferrari’s former head of security. Crogan informed Renato, and when Renato confronted the man, he protested—it was a case of mistaken identity, he insisted. He even produced a sworn statement avowing that he had no connection whatsoever to this Peter Ferrari person. Crogan hired a Lima investigator named Max Saavedra, who confirmed the link between LERN’s owner and Ferrari. Crogan scotched the account. (Crogan declined to comment for this story.)

In an email sent to his bosses, Crogan wrote, “It is a small world because Ferrari recently pitched our Latin American team and was quickly turned away.” Renato told me that “Crogan had some real disdain” for Ferrari—it seemed almost personal.

Crogan rejected other Peruvian accounts, including one from a company called Universal Metal Trading. The problem in that instance wasn’t Ferrari; it was the company’s reported dealings in Madre de Dios. Peru had finally criminalized informal mining in early 2012. If miners got caught they could face jail time, and there were penalties for buyers, too, for laundering blood gold. In an email to Sam and Renato that September, Crogan described Madre de Dios as “high threat,” because “Peruvian authorities are collaterally focusing on environmental (pollution) and social (child labor) violations.” He continued, “Let’s conference this week on the best course forward in Peru.”

Crogan sometimes declared entire countries (Venezuela, Brazil) and continents (Africa) as “no fly zones,” meaning NTR couldn’t do business there. He never did that with Peru, or with Madre de Dios.

One day, according to Renato, Sam came to his desk with news he wanted to keep quiet. Another Peruvian company was ready to play ball. It was called Minerales la Mano de Dios. Alexander Calvo from Business Investments was again the main contact, and yes, Ferrariwas involved, which is to say that Mano de Dios was hiscompany. But this time, conveniently, his name did notappear on any of the corporate documents filed with the Peruvian government. In effect, if NTR signed a contract with the Hand of God, it would not be doing business with Pedro Pérez Miranda.

Right? Get it?

Renato got it.

He helped Sam generate the compliance paperwork and get Crogan’s approval. The two friends agreed to deal only with Calvo and his son, Gian Piere—never with Ferrari. They accepted Mano de Dios’s first shipment the Monday after Iska’s baby shower. Two more came soon after, worth $1.5 million and $3.5 million, respectively. In late November, the friends took a business trip to Lima. Crogan joined them, and he came away enthusiastic. “We have the potential to become a major player in the Peruvian market as long as we build a solid foundation,” Crogan wrote in an email to John Loftus. “Peru is a HIGH RISK venue for obvious reasons,” he added, but “with proper planning, we have infinite opportunities.” NTR began discussing the possibility of opening a permanent office in Lima.

THE PLAN WAS to never meet or know or lay eyes on Peter Ferrari. The plan was to forget that he even existed. Or so the friends told themselves, according to Renato. But each time he and Sam went to Lima on business—which was at least once a month—the message would get to them: Peter wants to meet you! Peter wants to hang out! Peter wants to show you a good time in his beautiful country!

Ferrari’s parties were legendary. He rented out venues on the beach. He stocked them with Lima’s beautiful people—actors, scions, club kids, fashion models. Every year for his birthday, on February 21, Ferrari would fête himself in a particularly grand way. Sam and Renato learned that it would be Ferrari’s pleasure if they attended the 2013 extravaganza. 

They flew down from Miami, taking their newest hire with them. His name was Juan Granda, and he’d been their junior colleague at HSBC. Eight years younger than Renato and five years younger than Sam, Juan brought the raucous, reckless energy of a fraternity brother to the Miami team. They’d decided to let him in on their Ferrari secret. (Granda declined to comment for this story.)

On their way to Ferrari’s party, clad uniformly in untucked collared shirts and dark jeans, the trio stopped at a Lima liquor store and bought a bottle of Johnnie Walker Blue Label, a birthday present. Ferrari had rented out a capacious, semi-outdoor hall at a restaurant called Costa Verde. An aging staple of Lima’s culinary scene, almost a tourist trap, it was situated on a pier stretching out from a beach in Miraflores. Security guards roamed the perimeter, holstered weaponry bulging against their black suit coats. An expert salsa band played before a packed dance floor. The dancers’ hips moved in a blur.

The NTR trio took a seat at a table with one of their other Lima-based gold suppliers, Rodolfo Soria. Thick necked and arrogant, Soria was flashy with his wealth. He liked to drive around in his Ford Mustang Shelby GT 500, the engine roaring. That night he was wearing a golden Presidential Rolex, worth probably $40,000, Renato estimated. No subterfuge had been required on Sam and Renato’s part to get Soria approved as a supplier, because his records looked clean. The Peruvian National Police would later describe him as an employee of Ferrari’s, but that wasn’t quite right. He was a peer, rival, and sometime partner.

Renato spotted Gian Piere and Carlos Vidal, who lived in Miami and worked for Ferrari as a “local operations manager.” Through Vidal, the friends met Jorge Uceda, an up-and-coming figure in the Peruvian gold trade. Short and slight and awkward, he could have passed for a teenager. He reminded Renato of a “nervous Chihuahua.” But Uceda was powerful—he was Ferrari’s customs broker, the guy who made sure Mano de Dios’s gold was exported without a problem. Renato thought: This is a man who owns a shipping business? 

The first thing Renato noticed about Ferrari was the tight,brightly coloredsuit he was wearing. It may have been sharkskin. He was small, almost petite, but it was clear he liked to spend time at the gym. No matter where he was, Ferrari drew attention. “He was very opulent,” someone who knew him told me. “Like Liberace almost.” He wore his curly, jet-black hair in a near mullet. His collar was open wide, maximizing the visibility of his gold necklace, though not the rosary made of solid gold he was known to sometimes wear.

Everyone stood up when he came to the table. With a flourish, Sam handed Ferrari the Blue Label and wished him a happy birthday in Spanish. Ferrari thanked them and said a few more things besides, but it was difficult to understand him, and not just because of the loud music. Was it his accent? No, something else. It was, Renato thought, like a speech impediment. Ferrari mumbled to the point of incomprehensibility. Renato nodded along, understanding next to nothing. Then Ferrari smiled, shook hands all around, and left to work the rest of the room.

The three Americans sat back down and drank. They toasted. They drank. They hit the dance floor. There were women everywhere. They toasted and drank. Where was Juan? Juan was gone. For 40 minutes they couldn’t find Juan. But then finally there he was, in the bathroom, in a stall, puking. He’d gone at it way too hard. Unsteadily, he came out of the bathroom. It didn’t seem like he could see. They kept asking if he was OK, and he kept saying the same thing: “I’m straight!” 

Someone told them about an after-party. It was at a nearby apartment. You OK to go to this after-party, Juan? “Im straight.” No one seemed to live in the apartment, where smoke filled the rooms and the booze kept flowing, but it belonged to Gian Piere, who, it turned out, had an identical twin brother, like you couldn’t tell them apart; they were even dressed sort of the same, and everyone was calling the other twin Peter Jr.

What?

Juan! “Yo!” He was straight. 

He knew that the mines were “informal” or “artisanal”—code words to most people in the gold business for “illegal.” But not to Renato, at least according to Renato. 

AROUND THE TIME of the birthday party, Gian Piere told the Miami team that Mano de Dios would need to wind down. A new company would take its place, one called Minerales Gold MPP SAC. As Uceda, the customs broker, would later say under questioning by U.S. law enforcement officials, “When the Peruvian authorities began to question a front company because of the sudden high volume of unexplained gold shipments, a new front company was created.” At the time, though, the Ferrari entourage gave a convoluted reason for the change, according to Renato. Something about limits on how much cash they could withdraw at a time from their Peruvian accounts and a falling-out with Alex Calvo—who, Gian Piere said casually, wasn’t actually his father. Ferrari was. That’s why his brother was named Peter Jr.

Sam and Renato submitted the paperwork to Crogan as if MPP were a fresh account. Gian Piere was listed as MPP’s owner under his real name, Gian Piere Pérez Gutierrez. Crogan immediately homed in on it. “The last name is Perez, like Pedro Perez (AKA: Peter Ferrari),” Crogan wrote in an email to Renato. “Obviously Perez is a common last name like Smith. However, as they say in Boston, the only stupid question is the one you don’t ask. Please reach out to the applicants and ensure they are not relatives or any relation to Mr. Third Rail.”

The next day, Renato reported back to Crogan: He’d asked the applicants, and nope, they didn’t know Ferrari. Renato hadn’t really asked the question, of course. Two days later, Crogan approved the account. A little spooked by the close call, Renato and Sam agreed that they needed to be more meticulous, to “keep things tight.” (No one, it seems, thought to ask what MPP might have stood for. Intentionally or not, it was Ferrari’s initials—Pedro Pérez Miranda—backwards.)

NTR relied on institutions like the Bank of Nova Scotia to pay for the gold it bought from Mano de Dios and now MPP. More commonly known as Scotiabank or just Scotia, it was for many years one of the world’s few “bullion banks,” institutions that lend money to companies for gold purchases. The intricacies of gold banking are abstruse, but essentially NTR borrowed Scotia’s money and used it to purchase gold, including Ferrari’s. When NTR needed to pay Scotia back, it sometimes did so not in dollars but in gold bars. To a bank, gold is an asset as liquid as cash. The more there is on a balance sheet, the more—and bigger—loans the bank can make. Bullion banks also serve as clearing houses for gold, middlemen between sellers like NTR and a stable of buyers, including financial institutions and any investor who keeps a position in physical gold as part of a diversified portfolio. The banks are like syringes, injecting gold into the bloodstream of global finance.  

NTR’s revenues came from a range of customers: Gold processed at the company’s Ohio refinery was purchased by Tiffany & Co. and Apple—the metal is used in smartphone transistors. On the topic of money, Sam and Renato had to wonder: Where did Ferrari get his? He needed a lot—at least half a million on hand at any given time, Renato once estimated—to maintain the flow of gold that he sold to them.

At dinner in a Lima restaurant on a cliff overlooking the Pacific, Sam and Renato once put the question to Alexander Calvo, before the reported falling-out between Calvo and Ferrari. A well-dressed man in his early fifties, Calvo was a practiced operator in Lima’s legal and political circles. He’d counseled Ferrari for many years, and he would have understood the implication of the question: Did his client’s funding come from cartels? Was Ferrari using the gold trade to clean drug money?

Calvo’s answer was simple: Dont worry, my American friends—the funding comes from Ferraris family. For Renato and Sam, the question was asked and answered, and that was good enough.

Also good enough: what little they knew about where Ferrari sourced his gold. As long as the metal made it past customs, they were happy. Renato claimed that he never asked anyone directly about the gold’s provenance, but Gian Piere and his twin brother told him anyway. An associate of Pepe Morales, the pockmarked Ferrari henchman who’d worked with him as far back as the 1990s, also once let the truth slip. So did Rodolfo Soria, Ferrari’s sometime business partner, who described to Renato where he and Ferrari obtained their gold: It came from a distant jungle province, “the hottest place to get gold from.”

That place was Madre de Dios.

But the NTR team almost never referred to it by name. Renato had no mental concept of the region. He knew that the mines there were “informal” or “artisanal”—code words to most people in the gold business for “illegal.” But not to Renato, at least according to Renato. In his mind it was “like in the movies—miners with a pickax panning for gold.”

“I guess out of sight out of mind type thing,” he wrote to me from prison. “I thought this was normal, their way of life in that part of the world.”


FREDDY VRACKO TACKLED his uncle before he could plunge the machete into Don Alfredo’s back. The two men rolled around on the ground. The uncle got to his feet first and stomped Freddy’s hand, breaking a finger. Afterward, breathing heavily, the uncle suddenly turned penitent. He ran over to Don Alfredo and, almost weeping, grabbed his shoulders and kissed him on both cheeks.

“Forgive me, little brother!” he howled.

His name was Godfrid, but everyone knew him by his nickname, Puby (pronounced poobie). He and Don Alfredo hadn’t been on good terms for many years. Puby had drifted around, lived in Lima for a long time. He was the prodigal son. When he did return to La Pampa, he wasn’t interested in joining the timber business. The allure of the gold boom was too strong. Puby got into the mining business.

The conflict between foresters and gold hunters had wormed its way into Don Alfredo’s own family. But at least his agitations were gaining notice. Not long after Puby came at Don Alfredo with a machete, an American television-news crew arrived in La Pampa. They were doing a story about the problem of gold mining in the rainforest. Don Alfredo agreed to be interviewed. “Bread for today and hunger tomorrow. That is how we describe what will happen in La Pampa if they don’t stop this,” he told the cameras, standing under the canopy of his sawmill.

The piece aired on PBS and helped boost international scrutiny of what was happening in Peru. The government in Lima felt the pressure, according to Leonardo Capparós, a former deputy minister responsible for environmental crime affairs—La Pampa had become an embarrassment. In April 2012, the national legislature issued a decree that criminalized informal mining. It could now be prosecuted as a matter of organized crime, and people who engaged in it could be punished with up to 12 years in prison. Proceeds would also be considered illicit: Any person or company who bought or sold illegal gold could be prosecuted for money laundering.

Don Alfredo was skeptical about the decree. The country’s law enforcement and judicial systems were too corrupt for any single law to make a difference, he told Freddy. But it was a start.

By then, according to Freddy and other sources, Puby was the chief of a gold-mining crew. The money was good, very good. It was why thousands of migrants kept coming to Madre de Dios to try their luck sifting through mercury-laced mud.

It also explained what happened to one of Don Alfredo’s foresting comrades. Rather than fight the miners, the man had tried to compromise: He would allow them into a designated corner of his timber concession for a tidy fee. When they violated the agreement, chewing into other parts of his land, he complained to the police. One night, according to Freddy, someone came to the man’s house and blew a hole in his chest with a shotgun.

When the miners entered his land in 2007, Don Alfredo’s reforesting association had 240 members. In less than a decade, that number had shrunk to 60. Some people were afraid for their lives. Others stopped logging to look for gold—they wanted to get rich, too. “They gave up,” Freddy told me. “They succumbed.” 

Violence had escalated to such a degree that the next time Don Alfredo needed to get miners off his land, he wouldn’t respond by organizing his neighbors into a militia. He would contact the authorities to schedule a police-led interdiction, attended by a designated official from the Madre de Dios Ministry of Energy and Mines. That official was José Carlos Bustamante. Don Alfredo couldn’t have known that within a few years, Bustamante would disappear from the region and possibly leave Peru altogether, fleeing corruption charges.

His alleged crime: taking bribes from miners.

Equipment floods a mining crater with water.

Chapter Four

AT THE SMIK SPA, a male-only bathhouse in Lima, they stripped down and put on kimonos. Sam, Renato, and Juan had become regulars at Smik—they talked shop while they sweated in saunas and steam rooms. The spa also had pools, barber and mani-pedi stations, and a restaurant where clients could order ceviche and beer. Sometimes the friends took advantage of the private massage rooms staffed by “Colombian women,” whom they talked about in an ongoing WhatsApp group chat:

“The selection is amazing.” 

“We will bang them all b4 you get here.”

They paid for everything with credit cards. It came up on their monthly statements as “health and beauty.”

They never ran into Peter Ferrari at Smik. Nightclubs were his pastime. He demanded that they join him for parties that lasted into the wee hours. A fancy car would roll up to the curb next to the velvet ropes, and a driver would get out to open Ferrari’s door. Ferrari would emerge as if onto a red carpet, Renato said, “like he was a Hollywood stud.”

The car itself was never a Ferrari. He preferred German makes: Mercedes, Porsche, Audi. In fact, no one could recall ever seeing him inside one of his namesake cars. Renato once asked a member of Ferrari’s entourage what the deal was—why did he call himself that if he didn’t even own a Ferrari? The guy just shrugged.

It was 2013, and business was booming. NTR Miami received several shipments of Ferrari’s gold each week, worth $4 million, $5 million, $6 million a pop. All told, the company spent $980 million buying gold from Peru that year.

At some point another new Ferrari company, Comercializadora de Minerales Rivero, came online, replacing MPP. Renato wrote up the submission for Crogan. He said that he’d met with the people listed as CMR’s owners, a young man named Miguel Ángel Rivero Pérez and a young woman named Alicia Ines—“artisanal miners” who “source their own minerals as well as buy from other miners,” and who “seem like extremely humble people.” All fiction. Renato had never and would never meet either of them. They were testaferros. In the spot on the paperwork where he had to list the source of the customer’s gold, he put down, “collectors and general public.”

“We wrote what we needed to write to get the account approved and the gold coming in,” Renato said.

The company’s address, listed prominently on the registration documents Renato gave to Crogan, was 513 Avenue La Paz, a jewelry store in Lima’s gold district. This was Ferrari’s headquarters, to which he commuted every day from his mansion in the city’s hills with a half-dozen bodyguards, some carrying shotguns. A few perfunctory trinkets hung in the windows. The store had a sign that read “Ariadna,” as in the princess of Greek mythology who helped Theseus out of the labyrinth with her string, but misspelled. Everyone in the gold district knew that it was a front.

People with gold came to Ariadna to sell it. They came from all over Peru, as did the metal they carried. They came because Ferrari had a reputation for paying higher prices than anyone else. He was also known to deal only in large quantities of doré bars and nuggets, not pieces of jewelry.

One day at 513 Avenue La Paz, Sam and Renato faced a pissed-off Ferrari. They were worried he was going to dump NTR and go with a Miami rival—maybe Kaloti or Republic. By then, Renato estimated, Ferrari accounted for 40 percent of their business in Latin America. “I remember thinking we must not lose him,” Renato said.

The three men repaired to Ferrari’s personal office, which was located in a building near the storefront, and sat around a conference table—an aged expanse of dark wood, with vintage claw-foot legs. Against one wall stood a hulking china cabinet filled with bottles of whiskey. Ferrari spoke in his usual mumble, but the gist was clear: Why are you screwing me on the assays?

His complaint had to do with the purity levels NTR was paying him for. In the gold business, buyers pay only for the percentage of gold identified in an assay. Amounts can vary widely, depending on where the ore was mined. In northern Peru, the purity is typically around 85 percent. In other areas—such as Madre de Dios—it can reach 98 percent or more. Jungle gold is some of the purest there is.

Ferrari’s shipments normally yielded high assays, between 95 and 98 percent, but according to Renato, that wasn’t what the NTR guys told him. It was an ancient fraud, a form of tipping the scales in their favor. The friends dutifully reported the actual purity level of a shipment to their bosses in Dallas, who gave them the money to cover it, but they told Ferrari that the level was lower. The skim usually came to a quarter of a percent—if an assay showed 98 percent purity, they would tell Ferrari it was 97.75 percent. To complete the scam, Renato said, they would send Ferrari an assay report with the fraudulent figures and corresponding payment. They pocketed the difference. 

So yes, they were stealing from Ferrari. Skimming is so commonplace in the gold trade that it’s practically baked into the cost of doing business. Renato said that Sam in particular did it so often—“chopping” the purity levels of suppliers’ gold—that he and Juan started calling him “the Sam-urai.” With Ferrari, however, they weren’t stealing from some gringo schmo, some Boca Raton pawnbroker. They knew the rumors about his connections to drug lords. They saw the men with guns who escorted him to work. But Renato, at least, shrugged it all off as hyperbole, the posture of someone who’d watched too many narco dramas on TV. It was hard to take Ferrari seriously: “I felt like he was a caricature of himself.”

After listening to Ferrari mutter his displeasure across his ornate conference table, Sam took control of the conversation. With his silver tongue, Sam could “talk his way out of the zombie apocalypse,” as one friend put it. Somehow he cooled Ferrari down. By the end of the meeting, which had moved to a restaurant near Ferrari’s office, the men were all laughing together over their expensive meals.

A participant in the gold trade described Jorge Uceda as having a “direct contact in customs.” Another put it more bluntly: “He ships tons and tons of illegal gold.”

THEY DID LOSE Ferrari once that summer, but only for a month. Kaloti poached his business. To win him back, there was only one thing to do: They asked Ferrari to dinner and offered to pay him more. Instead of 99.35 percent of the global spot price for gold, they would pay him 99.5 percent—the best terms NTR gave its suppliers. Ferrari smiled. “We had some drinks to toast the deal,” Renato recalled.

Soon after, in September 2013, Juan Granda was dispatched to live full-time in-country. He became NTR’s man in Lima. His office was located at the Peru headquarters of a company called Prosegur. Founded in Madrid in the 1970s as a private security firm, Prosegur had since become the Brinks of the Spanish-speaking world, transporting and vaulting money and gold. In Prosegur’s Lima facility, NTR set up an evaluation center where it could assay the contents of gold shipments before sending them to the United States, facilitating payment to suppliers. The plan was to cut a check for 90 percent of the total fee owed to a seller, based on the initial assay. The company would send the other 10 percent after the gold passed through Miami, reached the refinery in Ohio, and was put through a more thorough analysis. 

Ferrari had his gold delivered to the Prosegur office in an armored SUV. The deliveryman was usually Pepe Morales. The setup at Prosegur wasn’t unlike a pawnshop. New customers would place the doré bars on the counter and push them through an opening in a bulletproof window. Morales, though, would often come inside to deliver the gold and the paperwork required by Peruvian customs officials to approve the shipment: receipts, invoices, assay reports, and—most crucial of all—bills of lading.

Collectively, bills of lading were the official record of a shipment’s chain of custody, from its terminus at Prosegur’s window all the way back to where the gold came out of the ground. The first bill in any stack should have been a receipt created by the truck driver—or, in some cases, motorcycle driver—who picked up the freshly extracted gold at a mining site. The name of the mine should have appeared on the document. Sometimes, though, there was no bill of lading. How could there be if the mine was informal, unlicensed, or situated in the middle of a protected rainforest? In those cases, someone needed to attach a document to the anonymous jungle doré, and it needed to come from a duly registered mine so that, should they examine its origins, Peruvian authorities would wave the shipment through customs.

In the black market for gold, there’s a name for this: document swapping. In Ferrari’s operation, the man in charge of making sure government officials approved gold shipments, no matter what, was Jorge Uceda, the nervous customs broker Sam, Renato, and Juan first met at Ferrari’s birthday party. Over time, Uceda and Juan became friends. They bonded over gold and soccer, attending games together.

Uceda’s brokerage was called CLU Operadores Logísticos SAC, or Clusac for short, and his prices were lower than his competitors. “He thought he was one of the smartest guys in the room, and he was,” said a person who worked in Peru’s gold business and used Uceda as a broker. “He had the reputation of, in the export area, his packages sometimes didn’t get checked, if you get what I’m saying.” Another participant in the gold trade described Uceda as having a “direct contact in customs.” A third put it more bluntly: “He ships tons and tons of illegal gold.”

On his trips to Lima, Renato sometimes saw Uceda come to Ferrari’s office “to pick up money.” At the time, he didn’t think much of it. “I found out later that this was cash to pay off the officials in customs in Peru, to allow the exports to go through without being scrutinized,” he told me.

In emails sent from prison, Renato repeatedly insisted that he was not aware of any bribery while it was happening—he was lying about Ferrari to Crogan and helping chop assays, yes, but he wasn’t complicit in paying off Peruvian customs officials. He said he only found out about the bribes and fraud much later, in Miami, when government agents were interrogating him. “All this,” Renato told me, “I learned from the Feds.”

The pattern made it clear: The gold business in Latin America was murderous.

THE MONEY WAS rolling in. According to Renato, the skimmed proceeds went into NTR Miami’s expenses, including employees’ salaries and the bonus pool, which Sam was in charge of distributing. Bonuses were paid out every month: Renato got $20,000 in March 2013, $15,000 in April, $25,000 in May, $15,000 in June. He cleared nearly $250,000 that year—the boom year. Renato didn’t know that Sam, who had a profit-sharing agreement with the Loftuses, was making considerably more: $250,000 in March, $170,000 in May, $120,000 in June, $100,000 in August. In 2013, Sam would pull in more than $800,000. (As a new hire, Juan’s cut was lower.)

At Lima’s nightclubs, they sat at bottle-service VIP tables, with Ferrari in the center and his entourage—including his twin sons—situated around him. Johnnie Walker and Red Bull and cocaine were always within reach, salsa and reggaeton thundered on the sound systems, and young women flanked Ferrari, laughing and drinking and soaking up the dazzle. It was like he wanted to “steal youth,” Renato said, “like in some movie type shit.” Ever present during the festivities was Ferrari’s head of security, José Luis Madueño, a mountain of a man but affectionate—“a big dumb galoot,” Renato said, “like from Of Mice and Men,” who would wrap the NTR guys in bear hugs every time he saw them.

Violence crept into the periphery of the work. First it was a gold supplier in Ecuador, Jonathan López. In May 2013, López’s wife called Renato at home in Miami. Through her sobs, he slowly made out what she was saying: Her husband had owed someone money, and at a restaurant the night before, a man had walked up to their table and shot López to death as she and her children watched. Three months later, in Panama, a supplier named Salvatore “Toto” Cipponeri was gunned down along with his 22-year-old son in their Honda Odyssey. Then, in December, on a residential street in Lima at 11:30 a.m., Rodolfo Soria stepped out of his SUV into the chaos of gunfire. Men wearing ski masks were trying to kill him. Soria ducked for cover as his bodyguards returned shots. The gunmen fled and Soria was uninjured, but the pattern made it clear: The gold business in Latin America was murderous. 

Renato was feeling it. He was tired—he’d spent nearly half of 2013 away from home, traveling in South America. Now customers were getting shot and killed. But he carried on. “I am a high school dropout that made my bones by proving myself in every job,” he said. “What else was I going to do?”

There was “a fee” required to gain the release of the shipment. Ferrari claimed it might be, oh, $300,000, and if someone could pay, say, half, that would be a great.

THE FIRST SIGN of a problem was the canal rojo, the red channel. That’s what Peruvian authorities called it when they routed a shipment of gold for review before it left the country—they gave it the red light. Officials would assay the gold to see if its mineral content matched what was reported on the export documents.

In late November 2013, Pepe Morales dropped off several loads of gold supplied by CMR—the latest Ferrari-backed company—at NTR’s evaluation office in Lima. The assays went smoothly, and NTR wired 90 percent of the price of the gold, a sum of $10,589,100, into various bank accounts controlled by Ferrari. A Prosegur armored truck then drove the gold the short distance to a warehouse close to Lima’s airport and controlled by the Peruvian customs authority, which is known by its acronym, SUNAT.

In their office in Doral, on the Monday after Thanksgiving, Sam and Renato waited for word that the gold—304 kilograms of it—had been loaded into a jetliner’s cargo hold. Instead, they learned about the canal rojo. They told themselves they had no reason to worry—red-lights happened at random. They didn’t chop percentages until the final assay in Ohio, and they didn’t do it on every shipment anyway. As soon as SUNAT’s assay results came back, with numbers matching what was on the export documents, everything would proceed as usual.

They relaxed and waited. They waited and stopped relaxing. They called Juan, who called Uceda, who told them that SUNAT had decided to hold the shipment “pending further inspection.” What did that mean? More phone calls. Eventually they learned that SUNAT had detained the gold “pending proof of legal origins.”

Sam and Renato bought tickets for the next flight to Lima. They arrived at night and took a cab directly to the apartment NTR had rented for Juan; it was within walking distance of the restaurant where Ferrari had thrown his birthday party. From the balcony, the three friends could watch the Pacific’s swells roll toward the coastline.

According to Renato, Sam called Ferrari, put a finger to his lips, and retreated to one of the bedrooms. Five minutes passed. Renato told himself that this was just a misunderstanding. Ten minutes. Ferrari would say it was no big deal. For 15 minutes Sam had been in the bedroom, and Renato was praying that his friend’s persuasive powers would resolve the whole situation. 

At last, Sam opened the door and summarized the conversation. Ferrari was working on it, he said. NTR would get its gold eventually. But Ferrari had said that he needed a little help with one thing: There was “a fee” required to gain the release of the shipment. Ferrari had claimed it might be, oh, $300,000, and if Sam or NTR or someone could pay, say, half, that would be a great.

Sam said that he’d flat-out refused. As far as Renato could remember, that was the last time any of them ever spoke to Peter Ferrari.


THE INTERDICTION WAS initially scheduled for early 2015—there were miners on his land again, and Don Alfredo wanted them gone. But José Carlos Bustamante, at the Ministry of Energy and Mines, pushed the date back. There was a lot going on, what with all the illegal mining in Madre de Dios. When the new date came, Don Alfredo was told there weren’t enough police officers available to do the job. Another delay. Don Alfredo marked the new date on his calendar: November 19, 2015.

The police never came. Neither did Bustamante. The only people who showed up were four strangers on motorcycles. They came at dusk, and they carried guns.

Randy Yabar Morey was an assistant at the sawmill who lived with Don Alfredo. He had gone down to the Guacamayo for his nightly bath in the stream, and afterward remembered that he needed to put the cap on the exhaust chimney of a tractor parked next to the mill. He was on his way back to the house when he saw the scene unfold—the masked men climbing the wooden stairs; Don Alfredo facing them on the balcony.

“I told you I was going to kill you,” one of the men said to Don Alfredo, according to Randy’s subsequent testimony. “Pide perdón”—ask forgiveness.  

Don Alfredo was defiant. “I’m not saying sorry to you!” he yelled. “What are you doing in my house, you fucking delinquent?”

Then he turned to look across the yard to the stream where he thought Randy was still bathing. He shouted for his assistant to run.

As he ran, Randy heard the shots. Nine-millimeter bullet casings were later found on the balcony. The first shot entered Don Alfredo’s back, grazing his spine. Somehow, he spun around and faced his attackers; a second shot ripped through his upper left chest, puncturing his lung. Don Alfredo likely crumpled to the floor at this moment. He lay on his left side, on boards he’d hewn and milled himself from trees he’d taken from the rainforest. The killers finished the job with a bullet through his temple.

Randy kept running, all the way to a neighbor’s house on another timber concession. From there he called Freddy Vracko, who had gone to Lima for a vacation. There was confusion, panic, Randy speaking breathlessly into the phone: “We were in a shooting.… I ran away.…” Freddy scrambled to return home.

With a group of Don Alfredo’s neighbors, Randy went back to the house. By then more than three hours had elapsed since the shooting. Puby, Don Alfredo’s estranged brother, showed up soon after. No one had contacted the police yet, though from Lima, Freddy had called an ambulance. Investigators finally arrived the next morning. A murder inquest was opened. Statements were taken. Because Randy was the only witness, he was simultaneously a suspect and presumed to be in grave danger. The killers might come back for him. Don Alfredo’s neighbors said they’d protect him.  

Freddy mourned, he ruminated, he raged. His thoughts turned to Puby. “I saw my brother dead. It seems like they put three bullets in the head and death was instantaneous,” Puby had told a local reporter. 

Puby was a gold miner. He’d tried to attack Don Alfredo with a machete. Was it possible, Freddy wondered, that his uncle was behind his father’s murder?  

A statue of a miner in the central square of Huepetuhe, a town in Madre de Dios.

Chapter Five

THE NEWS WAS an early Christmas gift. A December 19, 2013 press release trumpeted the fact that OPM, the refinery owned by NTR’s parent company, Elemetal LLC, had “satisfied the LBMA as to its ownership, history, production capability and financial standing,” and “passed the LBMA’s exhaustive testing procedures.” The LBMA, or London Bullion Market Association, founded in 1987, is a collection of banks, gold dealers, and refiners with roots in a decision by the Bank of England in 1750 to standardize the gold bars that then formed the basis of the nation’s mounting imperial wealth. LBMA’s founding members, in turn, can trace their origins to the trade in gold taken by Europeans from civilizations they were in the process of eradicating.

“We set the international standard,” the LBMA touts, because of “stringent checks” of its members. By achieving “good delivery status,” OPM and, by extension, Elemetal joined an elite list of some 70 LBMA-approved gold refiners worldwide. Among other things, this meant that London’s auric magi had devoted time and energy to acquiring all the knowledge they could about the conglomerate before declaring its gold free of sin. (The company had received a similar designation that September from COMEX, the major American commodities futures exchange.) 

In Dallas, everyone celebrated. “That was a big deal,” a former Elemetal employee said. The company’s new status “improved the price we could get for every ounce we refined.” Elemetal had been called up into the big leagues.

Three weeks later, on January 3, 2014, more good news arrived: Sam and Renato learned that SUNAT had released the CMR gold shipment into Peter Ferrari’s custody. Somehow, some way, Ferrari had succeeded in getting it back. It seemed as though the exportation would proceed without a problem, but just to be sure, Sam and Renato flew to Lima.

When they arrived, they couldn’t reach anyone in Ferrari’s entourage. Not Ferrari himself. Not the twins, not Pepe Morales, not the big galoot Madueño. They went to 513 Avenue La Paz, but the shop was closed, the lights off. They pressed the buzzer, waited, pressed again. No one came. They made more calls. A day passed, then two. Finally, Morales answered his phone. As Sam would later recount in an email to his bosses, Morales said he “didn’t have any information.” Everyone was “out of Lima in the mining regions,” where the “phones don’t work.”

Over the next few days, Sam and Renato kept trying to reach people in Ferrari’s crew. Soon their calls didn’t even go to voice mail. Instead they got error messages: The numbers they were calling had been disconnected. The situation was now a crisis. The Loftuses had to be alerted, as did Crogan.

Eventually, Renato and Sam were able to review CCTV footage of the moment when SUNAT released the gold from custody. The video showed a Honda CRV roaring in reverse into a warehouse, and then a flurry of movement: men loading what appeared to be very heavy duffle bags into the back of the Honda, and police with riot shields who seemed to be escorting them. Wait—was that Pepe goddamn Morales helping carry the bags? Yes, yes it was! And now Sam and Renato recognized that Honda. It was Pepe’s Honda! And then Pepe got into the driver’s seat and then he was gone, and so was the gold.

One afternoon that week, over lunch at yet another restaurant in Lima with views of the Pacific, Renato took a photo of Sam. It shows him in profile, staring wide-eyed and despondent toward the horizon. What could he have been contemplating except the fact that a man he’d been expressly forbidden to do business with was now in possession of more than $10 million of his company’s money and the gold it was meant to pay for? Renato put down his phone and asked Sam if he thought it was all worth it, buying gold from Ferrari. Would he do it again, knowing the outcome? Sam’s answer surprised him.

Ferrari’s gold was the reason for their—and the company’s—wild success in South America. The volume had whet the Loftus brothers’ appetite and persuaded them to open an NTR office in Colombia, which Sam controlled. Not only that, but the huge quantities of jungle gold had helped the business achieve the LBMA designation. 

Yes, Sam said. He would do it all over again.

Sam Barrage in Lima in January 2014.

A POINT CAME when, in internal communications, NTR stopped using the word “loss” to refer to the situation in Peru and started using “theft.” Gold companies have complex insurance policies to protect themselves from, among other dangers, the machinations of master thieves. On January 14, almost two weeks after Morales took the gold from SUNAT’s custody, NTR filed an insurance claim with its underwriter, a member of the Lloyd’s of London exchange. An investigation would begin soon, but it would take time.

Crogan was in crisis mode. He shot off emails to law enforcement, including a special agent with the Drug Enforcement Administration stationed in Lima named Pete Fazio, and a special agent at Homeland Security Investigations named Cole Almeida. Crogan was looking for information about Peru cracking down on illegal gold, and about whether other countries where NTR did business might follow suit. The bosses in Dallas were persuaded to put a freeze on all business in Peru while Crogan once again vetted each of the company’s suppliers there. To help him, Crogan rehired Max Saavedra, the private investigator who’d uncovered Ferrari’s connection to LERN in 2012.

No one turned up information as quickly as journalists in Lima did, especially those at El Comercio, the country’s most esteemed newspaper. “Don’t know what fact and fiction is anymore,” Crogan wrote in response to one article. By the end of January, reporters had dug up the secret that Renato, Sam, and Juan had been trying to keep for more than a year. “We need to know if [CMR] has any ties to Pedro Perez, Peter Ferrari, et. al., as alluded to in Peruvian tabloids,” Crogan wrote in an email to John Loftus and Carl Gum, Elemetal LLC’s general counsel. One of CMR’s testaferros—whom Renato had lied about meeting in person—was 34-year-old Miguel Ángel Rivero Pérez. In an email to Saavedra in early February, Crogan asked, “Were you able to confirm that Miguel Rivero is in fact the nephew of Peter Ferrari?”

Eight days later, Saavedra sent a report to both Crogan and Sam. It summarized the 1999 case against Ferrari and mapped out his family tree, showing that Miguel Ángel was indeed his nephew and that Gian Piere and Peter Jr. were his sons. The report didn’t mention MPP or CMR by name, but as Saavedra later wrote in a memo to Crogan, his report “warned about the risks involving the operations with … or through [Peter Ferrari’s] front companies.” 

To the best of Renato’s recollection, his superiors never approached him to ask what he knew about Ferrari, and when. “I don’t remember being confronted by anyone on that, at all. At any point whatsoever,” he told me. As far as he knew, the fact that he, Sam, and Juan had lied to the company remained a secret.

In Lima, Juan learned that another Ferrari-backed company, called Sumaj Orkro—named for the famous mountain of silver in Bolivia, but misspelled with an extra r—was still selling gold to Kaloti. He called his friends to discuss what to do. Juan later told U.S. special agents that he felt “betrayed” by Ferrari. “We were trying to really hurt Peter bad,” Renato confirmed. “We were running on piss and vinegar—we were out for blood.”

The three friends hatched a plan.

That night, according to Renato, Juan left his apartment and walked to the nearest pay phone. He called a SUNAT official and said the customs department ought to look into a gold shipment that was about to be exported by Sumaj Orkro. The company belonged to Peter Ferrari, Juan said—he’s still doing his illegal business, right under your noses. Then he hung up.

Soon after, SUNAT seized a shipment of Sumaj Orkro gold, sending Juan, Sam, and Renato into a fit of celebration. Emboldened, Juan made several more anonymous calls, always at night, after learning about other Ferrari entities that had gold exports headed to customs. SUNAT seized more of Ferrari’s shipments. The NTR guys started referring to Juan as the Dark Knight, because he was dealing blows to a nemesis. It was revenge, sure, but they told themselves they were also helping fight crime. To some extent they weren’t wrong. Behind the scenes, Peruvian authorities opened an investigation into Ferrari, the scope of which extended well beyond a few suspect gold shipments.

One of the SUNAT seizures made the national news in Peru. When the NTR trio saw the photos of the gold bars, they were taken aback. Juan always scrawled inventory numbers on the doré he assayed at the evaluation center in Lima. They recognized his handwriting. 

Ferrari had balls, they’d give him that—he hadn’t even bothered to remelt the stolen bars to disguise them. He was trying to sell the same gold twice.

Whoever passes out first loses. Everyone else digs a hole and buries the man alive. He is el pago, the paymenta human sacrificed for gold.

“JUST LANDED in Puerto 93 degrees,” Juan wrote in a WhatsApp message to Renato on October 1, 2014. “I’m like Pablo coming to Ecuador to get the coke.”

This was apparently a reference to an event in the career of Pablo Escobar, who, in 1976, made a drug run to Ecuador that resulted in his arrest and that famous smiling mugshot. Juan was an avid watcher of narco-crime serials and a student of Escobar’s life; he once sent Renato and Sam a photo showing a table holding bars of gold, a stack of cash, and a black nine-millimeter handgun. Sometimes he boasted to friends back in Florida that he could buy cheap cocaine wholesale—$700 a kilo!—and he joked with Sam about using “mules” to smuggle illegal gold into America. According to Renato, Juan was bluffing, “being a smart-ass.” Juan himself would have to answer for his posturing as a wannabe trafficker: Years later, sitting in a windowless interrogation room and facing U.S. agents as they recited his WhatsApp messages back to him, Juan said, desperately, “But those were just jokes!”

In the October 1 text, “Puerto” was Puerto Maldonado in Madre de Dios. Juan had come to the regional capital because the pressure was high to replace what Ferrari had cost NTR. It wasn’t just the stolen shipment—NTR had lost the river of gold Ferrari had routed to Miami. Sam, Renato, and Juan hit on an idea: Ferrari wasn’t a miner. He was a collector who bought from people with smaller operations—micro-collectors, they called them. That’s who interacted with miners. Why not sign more of them up as suppliers? 

So Juan began traveling to Puerto Maldonado, a sultry, rickety, tin-roofed sprawl of a town with a population of at least 75,000. It had become a jumping-off point for ecotourists bound for remote forest lodges and treasure seekers heading to illegal mines. Juan was a good salesman, and it didn’t take long for him to sign up about a dozen micro-collectors, many of which had offices in the city’s teeming gold district. “To think that Feb last year we didn’t move a single gram out of peru and this month we did 495 kilos,” Juan texted to Renato and Sam in early 2015.

As far as Renato knew, Juan never went far beyond the city limits or laid eyes on any mining activity. Another NTR coworker told me, “I guarantee you he didn’t get a drop of dirt on his fancy shoes.” In fact, company policy forbade it. Crogan once wrote in an email to staff, “We all agree that dispatching our personnel to remote mining sites presents extreme security risks and therefore these visits will not be made by Sales personnel.” 

Micro-collectors often bought their gold directly from mine bosses, and transactions were in cash. “It’s all under the table no docs,” Juan once texted Renato. He solicited help from Jorge Uceda, who by then had stopped doing business with Ferrari. Uceda provided his customary services: document swapping and payoffs. In the plea deal that Juan eventually signed with the U.S. government, he admitted that “illegal gold providers would bring gold” that “would be matched with false mining and other paperwork.… These transactions also involved bribery of SUNAT officials.” 

To get it out of the country, Juan and his colleagues routed the gold through registered export companies that NTR had on its Crogan-approved roster in Peru. One of them was Trade Minerals SAC, which had set up a shop in Miami, with a corresponding bank account, so that it could export gold to itself and then sell it to NTR domestically. Juan, Sam, and Renato called the two men behind Trade Minerals los curas (the priests), but they weren’t former monks or lapsed seminarians—they were one-time members of a strict all-male Catholic community in Peru known as Sodalitium Christianae Vitae. Recruited as boys, they’d lived in a boot camp by the sea, where they were drilled in Latin and punished for insubordination by being deprived of food. Sodalitium’s founder was eventually ousted amid accusations of systematic rape—he now lives in a mansion near the Vatican—and los curas got out of the cult and into gold.

NTR also routed gold through entities controlled by the brothers Miguel and Freddy Chamy, who had set up multiple shell companies with the help of the law firm Mossack Fonseca, of Panama Papers infamy. According to Renato, the Chamys once told him that they bought a lot of their gold from an illegal mine boss known as Tia Goya. In an internal NTR email sent in 2014, Sam said Ferrari was also rumored to have bought gold from her.

Tia Goya remains powerful today. Her real name is Gregoria Casas Huamanhuillca, and she’s among the migrants who came down into the jungle from the Altiplano in the mid-20th century. She’s often seen wearing the traditional dress of the Andean highlands: full skirt, four petticoats, a fedora over two braids. She could be one of the wizened grandmothers selling alpaca crafts to tourists on the streets of Lima, but she is said to be ruthless. According to government statements and press reports, she has ranks of officials in Madre de Dios in her pockets. She has been under legal investigation and is reputed to be responsible for the eradication of more rainforest than any of the region’s other mining barons. Some people who’ve laid eyes on her whisper of seeing a tail and horns.

Among the things that have made her legendary is her ability to find gold in places where others have failed. One miner I spoke to, who used to date one of Tia Goya’s nieces, told me about a special ritual performed at her mining sites before ground is broken. Miners are known to binge-drink, so the bosses get their workers drunk. Whoever passes out first loses. Everyone else digs a hole and buries the man alive. He is el pago, the paymenta human sacrificed for gold.

If the story seems far-fetched, so does much of what happens in Madre de Dios. A loose organization of mercenaries formed years ago in La Pampa to protect mines from intruders, but their services aren’t the kind you can refuse: Miners pay the men, who almost always are seen wearing balaclavas, or they get killed. The press has dubbed the group Los Guardianes de la Trocha (the Guardians of the Path). One guardian, however, doesn’t hide his face. Skinny and handsome, with a sparse beard, long hair, and tattoos down his arms, he has been observed striding around mining sites in combat fatigues. “He has killed for nothing, without motive, without reason,” said journalist Manuel Calloquispe, who has researched the Guardians deeply. People call him El Venado (the Deer).

At least six mass graves have been unearthed in Madre de Dios. There have been countless disappearances. In 2017, a makeshift crematorium was discovered near an illegal mining camp known as Tierra Colorado. The ash piles were littered with teeth and bones.

Renato found the panel “ungodly boring.” As the presenters droned on about environmental destruction, he fell asleep.

WHILE JUAN BOUGHT gold from Madre de Dios, Renato focused on Bolivia. He’d cultivated a customer base there, including SRH Oriental, run by a father-daughter team: Adrian and Sthefani Ribera Herrera. Crogan approved SRH in May 2014, and a month later he noticed that the company’s export volumes had doubled. Sudden spikes always sent up red flags, and now Crogan wanted to know more about where the family got its money and its gold. Along with Sam and Renato, an NTR higher-up traveled to La Paz to re-vet the company, easing Crogan’s concerns. 

A few months later, an article appeared in a Peruvian investigative outlet called Ojo Público (Public Eye). In great detail, it revealed how illegally mined gold from Madre de Dios was being smuggled into Bolivia and exported to a host of overseas refiners. Both SRH and NTR were named in the article. So were Kaloti and Republic. As U.S. federal prosecutors would later phrase it, NTR “made no effort to investigate the reporting and went on to purchase $140 million in gold” from SRH and another customer in Bolivia. Renato certainly wasn’t concerned. “I never really probed them about it,” he said of his interactions with SRH. “I would ask: Is this gold from Bolivia? And they would say yes. And I would confirm, ‘No es contrabando?’ They would affirm that it was not. What was I to do? Say I don’t want your gold unless you prove to me 110 percent that it was not contraband? All that would happen is that it would go to Kaloti.”

In late 2014,Renato and several coworkers attended a mining conference at a hotel in Lima. They sat in on a panel about illegal mining, but no one paid much attention. “It was kind of like the ASPCA commercial on late-night television where they show dogs with one leg,” said an NTR employee.

For his part, Renato found the panel “ungodly boring.” As the presenters droned on about environmental destruction, he fell asleep.


THERE WAS A flash of light, a shock wave you felt in the chest, and a fiery ball that mushroomed into the sky. A few hours earlier, a team of Peruvian soldiers had attacked a small mining camp less than two miles from Don Alfredo’s old timber concession, part of an ongoing interdiction called Operation Mercury. It began in February 2019 with the goal of clearing La Pampa of illegal mining and maintaining a military presence in the area indefinitely—what Don Alfredo had agitated for all those years ago. Now a team of specialists were attaching explosives to mining equipment and blowing them up one by one: the pumps, rafts, and sluice slides that formed the ramshackle skyline of a desecrated landscape. 

With their machetes and torches and high-powered hoses, the miners had left the earth looking napalmed. Charred tree trunks rose here and there like roods. Craters the size of lakes—craters that had become lakes—had replaced swaths of jungle. Trash was strewn everywhere: takeout containers, empty tuna cans, water and Coca-Cola bottles, blue tarps, fuel canisters, oil drums, tiny empty containers that said “Mercurio” on the side, next to a stylish logo depicting a bull and its fighter. It looked like the wreckage of a civilization that had exterminated itself.

“Muy contaminado,” one of the soldiers said.

The red sun blazed. All the miners had fled the interdiction except one, a small young man who would only give his nickname. “Dengue,” he said. There was a local outbreak of hemorrhagic dengue fever. Clinics were full of the sick and dying.

Short and wiry and dark from the sun, Dengue sported the faux-hawk of a La Liga striker. He wore a floral-patterned tank top, shorts, and the white knee-high rubber boots, similar to Wellingtons, that every miner in Madre de Dios seemed to wear. I told him about the story I was researching, that it had to do with gold mining, and La Pampa, and a man named Peter Ferrari.

“All of Peter Ferrari’s gold is from here!” Dengue said, almost with pride. He knew this, he told me, from the TV news.

He was 25 years old and from Cuzco. He’d come to La Pampa two years prior. There was no other work as lucrative as this. For the mining crew that the soldiers had chased away, Dengue was a machetero. He made 100 Peruvian soles a day—about $28—to cut down trees and brush. The men who operated the pumps and hoses, excavating and then working down inside the muddy craters, could make up to 300 soles a day. That was the job Dengue wanted. I asked him how much money he’d earned so far in his gold-mining career.

“Everything is invested,” he replied.

“In what?”

“Mujeres y cerveza.” Women and beer. The soldiers erupted in laughter.

Then Dengue turned serious. In truth, he said, he’d sent almost all of his money to his mother.

We stood next to an intact sluice. Before the specialists blew it up, we ascended the ramp and studied the carpet. There were several flecks of gold caught in its green fibers. One of the soldiers found a bucket nearby filled with watery gruel—mud that had recently come off the sluice. Had there been no interdiction, the miners would have taken the bucket, dumped its contents into a larger vat, and added mercury to it.

The soldiers instructed Dengue to see if there was gold in the gruel. He dipped a metal dish into the bucket and swirled it around, occasionally bumping it with the heel of his palm. It was clear he’d done the motions before. The soldiers crowded eagerly around him, peering down. “Somebody is going to see me,” Dengue said at one point, looking up, “and then kill me on the highway.” 

Golden specks collected at the bottom of the pan. How much gold was it? What would the soldiers do with it? Seize it as evidence? “No,” an officer said.

I watched one of the soldiers walk away with the pail in his hand. I was told it was time to go.

Mining equipment is blown up during an interdiction.

Chapter Six

IN EARLY FEBRUARY 2015, Renato, Sam, and Juan were summoned to a fancy Dallas hotel for questioning, part of the investigation into NTR’s insurance claim for the gold stolen in Lima. The underwriter was trying to find any reason not to pay out—such is the way of the insurance business—and the lawyers had zeroed in on NTR’s dealings with Ferrari. If they could find evidence that Renato, Sam, and Juan knew they were buying gold from Ferrari, with his reputation as an illegal-gold tycoon, the underwriter could nullify the claim.

For their part, the three friends hoped that the depositions would be the last time they ever had to talk about Ferrari. They prepped together without a lawyer—just the three of them. They made a pact to lie under oath.

According to Renato, they all agreed: “We would not admit to knowing Peter Ferrari.” They repeated it over and over, a mantra. They “rehearsed scenarios” and “discussed what we would say to try to keep our stories straight.” They talked about how they had to “save the company.” Sam in particular was adamant. “I clearly remember him saying that it was … our job to get this claim approved,” Renato said. He, too, felt duty-bound, citing his hardscrabble upbringing in Brooklyn, where loyalty was a valuable currency and anything that smacked of snitching was absolutely taboo. Sam and Juan were like family; NTR had given him a chance and paid him well. None of them seemed to realize the gravity of lying in a deposition. “The worst outcome we thought, or I thought, was the claim would be denied,” Renato said.

The bombshell came a few hours into his second day under oath. Renato had spent much of his time with the lawyers, repeating “I don’t recall” and trying to get across that he was just a sales guy. He knew that Ferrari was “a bad person,” he said, because Crogan had said so, but he didn’t know why exactly, and he certainly wasn’t aware that NTR was doing business with the man.

Then a lawyer slid a manila folder across the table. It contained a stack of Peruvian business registration forms for MPP. These were the papers Renato had given Crogan in February 2013 to get the supplier approved. The lawyer directed Renato to a certain page, and he looked down and read. Right there, typed in black, was the name Pedro David Pérez Miranda. He was listed as one of the company’s principals.

Renato’s chest turned to ice. What the fuck…? How had he and Sam missed this page? How had Crogan missed it?

Sam also underwent a two-day grilling. “I don’t remember,” he said in response to question after question. Juan had the easiest time—half a day, on a Friday. At the outset, he insisted that the lawyers call him Mr. Granda. When they asked him what he knew about Ferrari back in 2013, before the gold shipment was stolen, he replied, “At that point in time, Peter Volkswagen would have sounded the same to me.” Everyone laughed.

Afterward the friends felt like they’d done pretty well. They’d been tripped up here and there, but the lawyers hadn’t extracted any catastrophic confessions. According to Renato, their company’s general counsel, Carl Gum, later told them they “did great.” (In an email, Gum, who still represents Elemetal LLC, said there were “inaccuracies and even urban legends” in the fact-checking questions sent prior to publication of this story, but he didn’t specify what those might be.)

Renato also recalled Sam calling Crogan to fill him in on what had happened. Topping the highlight reel was Ferrari’s name on the MPP paperwork. Renato told me that Crogan was surprised and concerned. 

Crogan had his own deposition coming up, but it never happened. On March 20, sparked by a round of searches and seizures in Lima, the news broke in the Peruvian press: Ferrari was under investigation for money laundering and trading in illegal gold. NTR’s name was all over the coverage. So was Kaloti’s. Soon Ferrari’s lawyer took to the airwaves, vehemently proclaiming his client’s innocence in an interview on a Peruvian news channel.

Crogan sent an email to one of the bosses in Dallas. The case against Ferrari in Peru, he wrote, would almost certainly lead to an investigation into NTR by U.S. authorities, if one hadn’t been opened already. He suggested that he and the company seek an audience with the feds as soon as possible, get out ahead of the situation. Soon after, according to Renato, Sam and Carl Gum flew to Lima to meet with NTR’s local lawyers there. Crogan wasn’t informed about the trip and felt as if he’d been purposefully excluded. 

Then, just like that, Crogan quit. He sent a resignation memo to Dallas, summing up his reasons for leaving and highlighting the Peru situation, according to two people who saw the email and described its contents to me.

Renato remembered Crogan coming down to Miami before his last day on the job and being cordial enough. But he “never really asked” Crogan why he resigned. “I had seen many people in my career quit high roles in companies,” Renato told me.

He got back to doing what he did best: buying gold and not asking questions.

Officers found Ferrari in his pajamas. The first thing he said was “OK, OK, I lose.”

THE YEAR 2016 was full of warning signs. There was the grand jury subpoena from the U.S. Attorney’s Office that Elemetal received in April. Sam told Renato not to worry—it was part of some industrywide probe. In May, the Peruvian government declared a state of emergency in Madre de Dios because of large-scale mercury poisoning wrought by illegal mining. June saw the arrests of several gold suppliers in Ecuador for smuggling illicit Peruvian gold into their country and selling it to overseas refiners, but none of them were NTR customers. At least not directly—an NTR supplier had purchased gold from one of the Ecuadorian companies, but NTR had stopped working with that supplier some time earlier. In August, suppliers in Chile were arrested on similar charges, and this time one of them had been an NTR client until just a month prior—a flashy young exporter named Harold Vilches, whom Rodolfo Soria had introduced to Renato. But Vilches was relatively small-time, and Renato said he didn’t know what was going on behind the scenes with Vilches’s business

The decision by NTR’s bosses in October to halt purchases from most of Latin America, because U.S. authorities’ investigation of the gold business “was getting too hot for the industry”—that was a big deal. Still, according to Renato, Sam insisted that “we were only pausing.” Renato told his customers he “would be back soon.” If he was worried about anything, it was about losing his job, not his freedom.

Even Ferrari’s spectacular downfall seemed like a good thing at first. Peruvian investigators discovered that Ferrari had stolen NTR’s gold with the assistance of Rodolfo Orellana, a lawyer and property racketeer who told Ferrari he might be able to pry the gold from SUNAT’s hands for a $1 million fee through a network of public officials he’d paid off. Ferrari had negotiated Orellana down to $600,000, a portion of which he’d apparently tried to get Sam to pay during their final phone call. Orellana ultimately bribed two judges, who concocted court orders demanding that SUNAT release the gold.

When Pepe Morales arrived in his Honda to take the shipment from the SUNAT warehouse, Orellana’s closest adviser, Benedicto Jiménez, was there. Jiménez was famous, a national hero. The silver-haired former general was responsible for the 1992 capture of Manuel Rubén Abimael Guzmán, the founder of the Shining Path. Two decades later, Jiménez was working for Orellana, assisting in bribes and scams. Orellana was eventually locked up for a billion-dollar scheme to commit real estate fraud, and Jiménez for his role as his consigliere. In a phone call from his Lima home, where he was at the time under house arrest, Jiménez denied having anything to do with the Ferrari gold. It was all a case of mistaken identity. Yes, he was at SUNAT the day of the theft, but on other business.

At 3 a.m. on January 3, 2017, three years to the day after Ferrari had absconded with NTR’s gold, some 900 police officers and other officials fanned out across Lima. They planned to arrest Ferrari, his twin sons, Pepe Morales, Miguel Ángel Rivero Pérez, Alexander Calvo, Rodolfo Soria, and others for their involvement in the illegal gold trade. SWAT team members leaned ladders against the walls of Ferrari’s 30,000-square-foot compound and crept over. Two security guards stood in a garden. One of them noticed that a red spot had appeared on the other’s forehead. Then there was yelling as police poured into the compound and rushed inside the house. On a living room wall hung a large piece of art: a cartoonishly stylized American dollar bill with Ferrari’s smiling visage in the center, a gold chain around his neck. “WHO DO I TRUST?” read the text on the bill, and underneath that, “I TRUST ME”—quotes from Al Pacino’s Tony Montana character in the movie Scarface

Officers found Ferrari in his pajamas. The first thing he said was “OK, OK, I lose.” The police searched the house for gold and cash. Ferrari refused to help, so they turned the place upside down. It took six hours to find the vault. On a wall in Ferrari’s large home office hung another piece of art, this one extending from floor to ceiling and featuring a landscape scene. Someone thought to take it down, and when they did they found a brushed-metal door 12 feet across and six inches thick. The officers yanked Ferrari over and ordered him to enter the passcode. For several minutes, he fumbled with the keypad.

“What’s happening?” asked Jorge Dominguez, the lead investigator on the case.

“I’m nervous,” Ferrari replied. “I can’t remember it.”

Dominguez rolled his eyes and called in the welding crew. For four hours they blowtorched and drilled. When they finally opened the vault, it contained some jewelry and 15 kilograms of gold bars, worth about $555,000 at the time. It wasn’t nothing, but it was nowhere near the cache the authorities had expected to find.

“Te pelaste,” Ferrari said to Dominguez and his team as they stared into the vault. It was idiomatic Spanish: You’ve been cleaned out, fleeced, screwed. “Mi dinero estáafuera,” he added. My money is on the outside.

The arrest was all over Peruvian media. Renato, Sam, and Juan celebrated. That fucker deserved it, they agreed.

They didn’t wonder if the arrest might be related to something bigger, let alone to them. They knew that Elemetal LLC had lawyered up, using the services of the formidable Jones Day legal firm. And they’d given their cell phones to the company’s attorneys, who in turn provided them to federal agents. They had no choice: The subpoena from April, the one Sam told Renato was no big deal, ultimately required it.

“I am not a criminal,” Renato said. “My whole life is dedicated to my family! I’m a good guy!”

THE DOORBELL RANG at Renato’s house in the Miami suburb of Kendall one evening in late January. A man and a woman flashed their badges: Cole Almeida, special agent with Homeland Security Investigations, and Refina Willis, FBI. Almeida was one of the law enforcement contacts Crogan had called after Ferrari stole the gold shipment. Renato invited them to sit down on the living room couch. His hands trembled as he brought them water, but the agents turned out to be “polite” and “unthreatening,” Renato said.

Their questions revolved almost entirely around Harold Vilches, the Chilean supplier. Renato told them that NTR had stopped doing business with Vilches because he was being investigated for dealing in “conflict gold.” Later in the discussion, Renato asked the agents whether he was “a subject” of investigation. That’s what they were there to figure out, Almeida replied.

The questioning took less than an hour. Afterward, Renato was unnerved but relieved. Based on the questioning, he thought Vilches was their target.

A month later, Sam received an email from a Bloomberg reporter, asking him to respond to a list of allegations made by Vilches, including that he and Renato had helped smuggle illegally mined Peruvian gold through Chile to Miami. The reporter had already stopped by the Doral office some months earlier asking about Vilches. Now as then, Sam and Renato denied everything. But the looming article, to be published amid increasing heat from the feds, scared Renato. With his company’s blessing, according to Renato, he called the number on the card Refina Willis had given him and told her about the Bloomberg email. Let’s meet, she said.

The next day, Renato drove downtown to the U.S. attorney’s office, which is in a tower adjacent to Miami’s hulking concrete federal lockup. In a windowless room, Willis and Almeida told Renato that they believed his role in exporting illegal gold from South America went far beyond Vilches. He should take a deal.

What deal? Renato was confused. He’d already explained that he didn’t know Vilches’s business. He didn’t have a lawyer present.

The agents asked him to tell them about “the conspiracy” to move illegally mined gold “from South America.” Renato said he didn’t know anything about that. “I am not a criminal,” he said. “My whole life is dedicated to my family! I’m a good guy!”

According to Renato, Willis slid a printout across the table. It was a photo Renato had once sent to Sam, of a female masseuse at the Smik Spa. To Renato the implication was clear: The feds were accusing him of whoring around. Willis asked Renato what his wife would say about the photo. “What do you want me to say?” Renato replied, near tears. At some point another man entered the room—the lead prosecutor on the case, Frank Maderal. “Tell me about your customer SRH,” Maderal said.

The FBI report about the meeting doesn’t mention the Smik photo. It suggests that Renato dissembled, denying that SRH was among his suppliers. But according to Renato, “I plainly said they were a Bolivian collector that supplied us with gold.”

The meeting ended with Maderal saying it was a waste of his time. Afterward, on the sidewalk outside the office, Almeida said he wished Renato had taken a deal.

The Rodriguezes’ dog, Stella, a Yorkshire terrier, barked like mad when federal agents arrived.

THE FOLLOWING WEEK, Sam, Juan, and Renato met at a bar in Kendall called the Blue Martini. By then an article headlined “How to Become an International Gold Smuggler” had appeared on Bloomberg’s website. It claimed that Sam and Renato knowingly bought and sold illegal gold from Vilches. Though the men had denied the allegations, a company executive named Bill LeRoy had just arrived in town from Dallas. Sam had already spoken to him, and he told his two friends what was coming: NTR was letting them all go. Renato felt sick.

The next morning, LeRoy summoned the three men to his hotel and made it official. They wouldn’t be part of the company’s future.

Juan was the first to be arrested. After the meeting at the hotel, he went to his mother’s condo south of Miami. Federal agents were soon swarming around him. By 4:20 that afternoon, he was sitting in an interrogation room across from Willis and Almeida, his head in his hands.

That night a gathering took place at Iska Barrage’s sister’s house. Renato was there, along with Miriam. All of Iska’s family were in attendance, too. In light of what had happened to Juan, Sam told everyone, he and Renato would possibly—probably—be arrested. Sam spoke about the need to stick together, “to not fall to the feds,” because they’d done “nothing wrong.” Miriam was shaking. Iska took her to the backyard and looked her in the eye. “It’s going to be OK,” Miriam recalled her saying. “I need you to remember: We are family. Please don’t ever forget. We are family.”

Renato and Miriam’s twin daughters had a school trip to Disney World that weekend. Someone suggested that Sam, Iska, and their daughter join the Rodriguezes in Orlando and use the excursion to regroup. They drove up on Friday. One night in their shared hotel suite, Sam mused to Renato about “moving to Nicaragua”—where Iska’s family was from—and “getting away from all this shit.” Renato nodded. They drove back to Miami on Sunday.

The Rodriguezes’ dog, Stella, a Yorkshire terrier, barked like mad in the living room the next morning, March 20, when federal agents arrived. They wore black vests and held guns as they searched the house. They put Renato in handcuffs and walked him to an unmarked car. “Oh my God, oh my God,” Miriam kept saying. Almeida was there. “I’m not a criminal,” Renato told him. Almeida replied, “That’s not what we think.”

Left alone in a silent house—the girls were at school—Miriam dialed Sam’s cell number. Before the agents hauled him away, Renato had instructed her: Call Sam and “tell him what happened and [ask] what do we need to do.” Call after call went to voice mail before Sam finally picked up.

“Miriam,” he said. “I’m in Colombia.” 

She felt dizzy. Had Sam fled the country?


THE INVESTIGATION OF Don Alfredo’s murder was assigned to the prosecutor’s office in the small town of Mazuko, in western Madre de Dios. Why it wasn’t sent to the larger office in Puerto Maldonado wasn’t clear to Freddy Vracko. Randy Morey, the only witness to the crime, was ruled out as a suspect. A succession of detectives and prosecutors came and went, which made progress slow. It wasn’t surprising: 58 environmental activists were murdered in Peru between 2002 and 2014, according to the organization Global Witness. To this day almost none of the cases have been solved.

A year after his father’s death, Freddy learned of a possible break in the case. Police had located a man, Edwin, and a woman, Nancy, who apparently possessed critical information. The pair had gone to a cantina one night in a remote gold-mining camp near the northern border of Don Alfredo’s timber concession. While drinking beer, they overheard a man bragging at the bar. He was the one who had shot and killed the famous Don Alfredo. And here he was now, all this time after the crime, still working, still mining gold, still drinking—a free man! But the police couldn’t protect him forever, he’d added. He needed to leave the area.

The witnesses knew the miner only by his nickname, which they said he announced at the bar. He was Chaval, the Kid.

Edwin and Nancy shared still more information with police, according to Freddy and partial documents obtained from the case file. Edwin, who was a miner, said he recognized Chaval from a previous encounter. He’d seen him with Don Alfredo’s brother, Puby Vracko. And he’d seen Puby visiting illegal mining sites in the company of two police officers, who, based on their descriptions, seemed to be men named Dante Gallardo and Edgar Barrientos. Edwin’s claims indicated that they were involved in a protection racket, shielding mine bosses and their equipment from interdictions, for a price.

Freddy said he pressed the authorities to make arrests, to do something. Then came reports that Edwin had been killed, his body left on the side of the Interoceanic Highway. As for Nancy, she was said to have disappeared from Madre de Dios.

Soon, Chaval himself reportedly vanished. The police never discovered his real name—not that they ever really tried, Freddy told me. They never even ascertained his physical description.

Freddy said he and his mother more or less took up the investigation on their own. They learned that Chaval’s wife used to run a small mining-supply shop but that she’d liquidated her inventory and moved to Lima. Freddy pestered prosecutors with legal filings, trying to prod them into action. The documents he sent them showed evidence, all of it circumstantial, against his uncle. They told a Cain and Abel parable of the rainforest, where instead of farmers against herders it was miners against loggers. Freddy had come to believe that Puby had hired Chaval to go to Don Alfredo’s house and scare him into giving up his anti-mining crusade. “I hope the order was not to kill him,” Freddy said, “but just to scare him, and the whole thing got out of hand.”

Puby ran a small beer hall on the main square in Puerto Maldonado, called Club Social. In April 2017, his frustrations boiling over, Freddy confronted his uncle on the sidewalk outside. Their faces were an inch apart, and their words were full of venom.

“Your time as a bully is over!” Freddy said.

“I’ve already found your father’s killer!” Puby yelled. “What are you doing, huevón, for your father!”

“It was you!” Freddy said with fury. “I’m going to catch you, you’ll see! I’m going to catch you!”

But he didn’t. Later in 2017, according to Freddy, the police told him that money had run short. “Without money, they don’t do anything,” he told me. The case went cold. Someone had got away with murder.

“In what part of me will you shoot me?” Puby said in Spanish with a laugh.

WHO DID PUBY mean when he said that he knew who killed his brother?

Outside Club Social one sweltering morning in February 2020, I briefly met Puby Vracko. He had a small mustache, a gut as round as a soccer ball, and thick hands. He wore a blue chambray work shirt that said “CAT” on the breast pocket. He could have been an aging Texas ranch hand. He couldn’t talk right then, he said—he had to take care of some business. But later on, around noon, no problem. We could meet, we could talk. “In what part of me will you shoot me?” he said in Spanish, with a laugh, which he apparently meant as a kind of jovial—and cynical—critique of journalism.

The meeting didn’t happen. He never answered his phone, never responded to messages, and every time I returned to Club Social, he wasn’t there.

Months later, Manuel Calloquispe, a journalist based in Puerto Maldonado, sat down with Puby at Club Social on my behalf and got his side of the story. It turned out to be the mirror image of his nephew’s: It was Freddy who wanted to let gold miners onto the timber concession and collect rent from them; Freddy was the one who’d been corrupted by gold. A few weeks before Don Alfredo’s murder, Puby claimed, Freddy and his father had a fierce argument over mining—Freddy wanted it on their land, Don Alfredo did not—and “my brother kicked him out” and “disowned him basically.” Freddy went to Lima, and from there he orchestrated the killing, Puby suggested, in league with the miners on his brother’s land. “For me,” Puby said, “he had something to do with his father’s death.”

“I adored my brother. Our family was so united,” he went on. “And today my nephew goes to war against me, talking all kinds of nonsense.” 

Was there evidence? Puby didn’t give any.

“He’s a liar,” Freddy growled when I relayed to him what Puby had said. There had been no argument with his father, let alone one about mining: “How dare he say this after all that’s happened—after the threats, the invasions!” 

It was the first time Freddy was hearing his uncle’s accusations. “You’re giving me much more reason,” he said, “to believe that he is the son of a bitch who gave the order to kill my father.”

Jungle gold is sold to a micro-collector for cash.

Chapter Seven

SAM’S LAWYER WOULD later insist that, while Renato was being arrested, his client flew to Colombia so he could “transition away from the day-to-day operations of the business”—Sam had been running an NTR office there in which he had an ownership share. But several people I spoke to, including former NTR colleagues, wondered if there was another reason. The U.S. Justice Department has a robust property-seizure arm. When a person is accused of a felony, the government often pursues their assets vigorously. “Maybe he had a secret stash of money there,” Miriam Rodriguez said, “and he just needed to make sure that he could get to it.” To hide it, that is, or transfer it to someone for safekeeping.

Colombian police arrested Sam at the airport after he’d checked in for his flight back to Miami. He spent several days in a local jail before being sent back to Florida after all. There he joined his friends in being charged with conspiracy to commit money laundering. 

According to the first criminal complaint, filed against Juan, the three men sent “billions of dollars from the United States to Latin America with the intent to promote the carrying on of organized criminal activity, including illegal gold mining, gold smuggling and the entry of goods into the U.S. by false means and statements, and narcotics trafficking.” Ferrari was identified as “Peter P.F. … a well-known individual in Peru, previously accused but acquitted of narcotics money laundering.” The complaint alleged that the NTR trio knew that the gold they bought from Ferrari—some $340 million worth in 2013—was illicit, and that their “conspiracy evolved over time from using obvious Peruvian front companies, to smuggling through Bolivia and Ecuador, to using more sophisticated Peruvian front companies, to smuggling through farther out countries, including islands in the Caribbean.”

At their respective arraignments, the men pleaded not guilty. Because of his trip to Colombia, Sam was deemed a flight risk and denied bail. So was Juan—he had emigrated from Ecuador with his parents when he was young, and his family still had property there. Renato bonded out. He was fitted with an ankle bracelet and went to work making pizzas. Miriam found him an experienced criminal defense attorney named Sabrina Puglisi, and Renato prepared to go to trial. He was convinced of his innocence: He may have lied to NTR about working with Ferrari, but he hadn’t been part of any conspiracy to launder drug profits, and he hadn’t supported organized crime—at least, he hadn’t meant to. What little indirect contact Renato had with Sam and Juan led him to believe that they were taking the same approach to the case.

The prosecution made much of the alleged narco-trafficking connections. Renato contended that they were trumped up, that the evidence of laundering drug money was murky at best. In one of Juan’s court hearings, a judge seemed to agree. “I think the government’s case is not the strongest case that I have ever seen,” the judge said. “I would say I give very little weight to his involvement in narcotics money laundering.” 

At the end of the day, however, what mattered was Ferrari’s reputation. According to one expert in such cases, sometimes that’s all prosecutors have to go by in money-laundering investigations—rumor and repute. It’s nearly impossible, after all, to prove that any particular piece of gold was purchased with drug money. What U.S. authorities could say for sure was that Ferrari had already been the target of a drug-centered investigation before NTR began working with him. The stories in the media about his ties to traffickers were relevant not necessarily because they were proven, but because they were public. Sam, Renato, and Juan knew about Ferrari’s reputation, and they chose to lie and do business with him anyway.

In Lima, not one law enforcement or government official I spoke to had found any evidence that Ferrari was laundering narco-dollars. Investigator Jorge Dominguez told me he had looked for it—hard. He did discover that one of the many micro-collectors Ferrari purchased gold from was busted in 2006 at the Lima airport carrying two kilograms of cocaine. But that was it.

Dominguez felt the drug-trafficking narrative was almost a distraction. Wasn’t illegal gold mining bad enough? In some ways, wasn’t it worse? Dominguez pointed out that mining is a “normalized situation that is happening in the open,” with sprawling camps and deforestation so rampant that it’s visible from space. And gold undergirds the global financial system. In the last phase of Ferrari’s career, he exported jungle doré from illegal mines by the metric ton. To Dominguez, that was more than enough reason to take him and his accomplices down once and for all.

Stateside, Juan was the first to change his plea to guilty, in late August 2017. Sam did the same a few days later. For a time Renato held out, unable to admit to crimes he felt he hadn’t committed. But then, in October, prosecutor Frank Maderal took out the big guns. A fresh indictment brought an additional 44 criminal counts against Renato, almost all of them pertaining to a different gold transaction made by NTR Miami.

Renato now faced a trial he couldn’t afford—the government had seized his life savings—and the prospect of Juan and Sam testifying against him. If he was convicted, he could spend up to 55yearsin prison. So he capitulated. He received more prison time than his friends: 90 months to their 80 each. This despite the fact that both Maderal and the judge agreed that Renato had become involved in criminal activities “less deliberately” and “less proactively than his co-conspirators.”

Renato left home to surrender to authorities on June 7, 2018. He doesn’t remember how he said goodbye to his 16-year-old daughters. “Maybe I just wanted to not save that in my memory bank,” he said. He hugged Miriam in their garage. His car had been repossessed, so he was using a vehicle from work. “I got in the pizza truck and drove away,” he recalled. 

Renato turned around to take one last glance at the house. He wept at the wheel.

People in Peru’s gold trade were abuzz with speculation. Ferrari, they said, had surely faked his demise in order to evade justice.

IN HIS CORRESPONDENCE from prison, Renato often said that he felt like a scapegoat, a proxy punished for the gold industry’s endemic sins. Banks, tech companies, jewelry manufacturers—they all want, need, crave gold, and the system that satiates that demand is rife with corruption, most of which goes unpunished. Employees at other companies bought gold from illegal mines in Madre de Dios, and from Peter Ferrari specifically. None of them went to prison. Then again, none of them got caught or were necessarily put in the government’s sights. In the United States, the only other person who did get nabbed was Jorge Uceda, the crooked customs broker. He was detained by authorities at the Fort Lauderdale airport in 2018, indicted for money laundering, and sentenced to 30 months behind bars.    

As for Ferrari, the U.S. government indicted him in January 2018for his role in the money-laundering scheme, but he remained in custody in Peru. During 41 months of detention, and despite the years-long investigation that preceded his arrest, Peruvian prosecutors were never able to charge him with any crimes. A judge finally ruled that he had to be released in June 2020.

Around that time, I made contact with one of Ferrari’s twin sons, Peter Jr., in an effort to arrange an interview with his father. “The press has created a monster where there is none,” Peter Jr. texted me. “We’re victims of an abuse of power committed here by the prosecutors and judges and Peruvian police.” He claimed that his father’s gold exports were made “through regular and legal pathways,” and that Ferrari “didn’t know anyone at NTR.” Then Peter Jr.’s phone stopped working. Ferrari was living freely in an apartment in Lima, waiting to learn whether or not U.S. authorities would extradite him. When I was able to make contact with his family again, in July, I learned that he had become gravely ill and had been rushed to the hospital. The next month, the news broke: Peter Ferrari was dead at 60 of complications from COVID-19. When I spoke to people in Peru’s gold trade, they were abuzz with speculation. Ferrari, they said, had surely faked his demise in order to evade justice: As is customary in such situations, when the U.S. government learned of his death, it dropped all charges against him.

After Sam, Renato, and Juan were arrested, Elemetal LLC lost its coveted certifications: COMEX and the LBMA removed the business from their “good delivery” lists. The company shuttered the Ohio refinery, laying off its workforce, and the cycle that Elemetal and its primary bank, Scotia, had been engaged in—dollars for gold for dollars for gold—came to an abrupt end. “I’m not interested in talking about that,” Tim Dinneny, the banker who managed the relationship with Elemetal, said when I contacted him.

The entity inside Scotia that had funded NTR’s gold purchases was called ScotiaMocatta. Mocatta was once a venerable London precious metals trading house, established in the 17th century on the back of Brazilian slaver gold. Scotia bought the firm in 1997. Sometime after the NTR debacle, the bank tried to find a buyer for it but failed. Scotia ultimately decided to shut the division down.

In February 2020, Scotia disclosed that its “activities and trading practices in the metals markets and related conduct” were under investigation by the U.S. Justice Department. Five months later, Steve Loftus died of a heart attack. He won’t be around to see what happens when his company finishes paying its penance for the Ferrari affair. As a corporate entity, Elemetal pleaded guilty in 2018 to a failure to maintain an adequate anti-money-laundering program; in a press statement, the conglomerate said it “wholeheartedly condemns the shocking behavior of these former NTR Miami employees in South America. Elemetal, however, also accepts full responsibility for its employees, the employees of its subsidiaries, and the failure of its international anti-money laundering program to prevent the misdeeds of the employees.” 

Elemetal agreed to pay a $15 million fine, and the government forbade it from buying gold overseas—but only for five years. In 2022, it will be free to start up again.

Renato could no longer physically bear to be near gold—or any precious metal, for that matter. “I don’t wear my wedding band,” he said.

JUAN GRANDA SERVED 28 months in federal prison before his release in August 2019. He now lives with his mother and works for a friend who runs a web-design business. Sam Barrage left prison in November 2019 after serving 30 months. He’s now back at home with Iska and their daughter. Renato, like Sam, also spent 30 months inside. He was released into home confinement a week before Christmas 2020, the beneficiary of a policy to ease outbreaks of COVID-19 in federal prisons.

One evening in early 2021, I visited Renato. Fit as an athlete from all the prison workouts, he had a high-and-tight military haircut. We sat on his back patio, near the pool. Swimming was out of the question; a Bureau of Prisons official had warned him not to submerge the device strapped to his ankle. Except for doctors’ appointments, meetings with BOP officials, and work shifts—he’d landed another job making pizzas—he wouldn’t be allowed to leave the house for another two years. The ankle monitor would come off in 2023.

The view from the patio extended west across a small lake and neighbors’ yards clumped with coconut palms. This was the western edge of Miami’s sprawl; not a mile away the Everglades began. Insects chirred as the sun set and the sky grew pink, and Renato reflected on gold.

“It’s disgusting to me,” he said.

He could no longer physically bear to be near gold—or any precious metal, for that matter. He’d given away the platinum watch and gold bracelet he once wore. “I don’t wear my wedding band,” he said. He stared down at his bare right hand. He’d put the ring in a drawer upstairs and planned to buy a stainless-steel replacement. 

Renato wrestled with guilt—how much of it he should feel, and for what. Yes, he reiterated, he’d known that the gold he and NTR were buying was illegal, but he hadn’t grasped, or even tried to grasp, the full scope of the horror caused by how it was mined. “I didn’t pay any attention to it,” Renato said. Back then, the topic had bored him.

I thought about an illegal mining site I’d visited. It was relatively new at the time, in early 2020, but already there’d been reports that the dreaded Guardians of the Path had arrived, the men who supposedly protect miners but seem only to cause violence. “Anybody can get killed around here,” said one of my guides, a farmer.

A miner was submerged in the site’s crater, up to his neck in water and working a suction hose. Another had a leg inside a vat of what looked like gray plasma, an amalgam of dirt and water and mercury. The miners—I counted about a dozen—took turns mixing the toxic slurry with their arms and legs, the better to get the mercury to adhere to any gold extracted from the crater. As the search for gold continued, the crater would widen. The palms at its perimeter would be felled, the underbrush cut and burned. The site’s slag pile, already 20 feet high, would grow ever taller.

The operation’s boss, a woman in a red sun hat and white flip-flops who said her name was Ruth, demanded that we not take photos. I asked if I could speak to her. “I have nothing to say to you. I have the authority of the San Jacinto community to be here,” she said, referring to an indigenous group. Some impoverished native communities allow illegal mining on their land for a price. “Ask them why they’ve allowed us to be here,” Ruth said.

A young shirtless man in shorts and white rubber boots who’d been standing atop the slag pile began to descend toward us, a machete in his hand. He waved the blade in the air and shouted. What he said I couldn’t make out. Other miners were closing in.

“Tranquilo, tranquilo,” my guides said, backing away.

As dusk turned to night in Miami, I heard Renato repeat a different phrase: “I was an idiot. I was a fucking idiot.”

A man submerges his leg in a slurry of dirt, water, and mercury.

MONTHS EARLIER, Renato had told me from prison about one of NTR’s Madre de Dios micro-collectors, a woman named Neli Ortiz. On his patio I mentioned her. Renato said he’d met her “on a few occasions.” Once, probably in 2015, she traveled to Miami, and he and Sam took her to lunch at Versailles, a famous Cuban restaurant in Little Havana.

I asked Renato if he knew that Neli belonged to the Ortiz clan, which ran several companies that allegedly bought illegal gold from all over Madre de Dios, including from Tia Goya. No, he said, he did not know that. Nor did he know that the Ortizes operated many gold-buying storefronts and booths in La Pampa, including one just eight miles from the forest concession belonging to Don Alfredo. I summarized Don Alfredo’s story for Renato, pointing out that the logger and anti-mining activist had been murdered in November 2015, at the peak of NTR’s dealings with the micro-collectors of Madre de Dios. The Ortiz clan easily could have bought and sold metal mined from Don Alfredo’s land.

“Shit,” Renato said. “Holy shit.”

I told him that Neli Ortiz and members of her family had been accused of paying bribes, over the course of several years, to José Carlos Bustamante, the local minister of mining who had delayed the interdiction that was supposed to take place on the day of Don Alfredo’s murder.

“God. I had no idea that this thing ran this deep.”

According to the corruption case against him, Bustamante was compensated to look the other way many times, planning interdictions against some illegal mines but not others. Bustamante worked closely with two Peruvian National Police officers in Madre de Dios. According to witnesses, they were Dante Gallardo and Edgar Barrientos—the cops once seen with Puby Vracko, the ones who allegedly protected the miners on Don Alfredo’s concession. 

“If you really follow it, NTR was somehow connected to that!” Renato said, his eyes wide. “I wish I’d never fucking dealt with this fucking business.” 

The dollars flow like rivers down the mountains and onto the plain, connecting everything. Scotia’s money, NTR’s money, the Ortizes’ money, Bustamante’s money, the illegal miners’ money—somewhere, somehow, some of it might well have financed the killing of Don Alfredo.

Renato stared into the night. “The demand for gold…,” he said, not completing the thought. “We should just indict the whole planet.”


WHEN FREDDY VRACKO was a child—about eight years old—he wrote a story for school. He told me this toward the end of my first visit with him, at his mother’s house in Puerto Maldonado. He’d shown me old family photos of the home his father had built in the jungle—like something out of Robinson Crusoe—and of Don Alfredo in his thirties, standing in his sawmill amid stacks of boards planed smooth and ready for the carpenter. Young Freddy’s story was meant to be like a fairy tale. “El Asseradero de Oro” is the title he gave it. The golden sawmill.

“It is about a man like my father who knows the jungle,” Freddy explained. The man is leaving on a trip, and before he goes he tells his brother: You must protect this enormous ancient tree, “because it is the spirit of the forest.” But the brother forgets what he has been told. He cuts down the tree so he can sell the wood. And when he cuts down the tree, the whole forest—“everything, absolutely everything”—turns to gold. The man eventually returns from his trip and sees what his brother has done. He takes his son on a long journey “all over Madre de Dios.” They seek out other spirits of the forest in order to ask for forgiveness. At last they find a “brother spirit” of the lost tree, which grants them their request. Bit by bit, the forest regenerates from solid dead gold “back to how it was.”

But that’s the child’s ending. In this other ending—the real ending—the father is murdered, the guilty walk free, and as long as the rivers of money keep flowing, the forest can only be made of gold.


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The Lives of Others

THE LIVES OF OTHERS

Two women gave birth on the same day in a place called Come By Chance. They didn’t know each other, and never would. Half a century later, their children made a shocking discovery.

The Atavist Magazine, No. 113


Lindsay Jones is an award-winning journalist based in Halifax, Nova Scotia. She has written for The Globe and Mail, Topic, The Walrus, and Vice. Listen to Lindsay discuss this story on the Creative Nonfiction podcast.

Editor: Seyward Darby
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Nina Zweig
Photographer: Jessie Brinkman Evans

Published in March 2021.

If you would like to share a story about a birth or mixup that occurred at a cottage hospital in Newfoundland, please contact the author: lindsayleejones@gmail.com.

ONE

Rita Hynes lugged her pregnant body up the rural hospital’s wooden steps. It was the night of December 7, 1962, and her rounded belly tightened with each contraction. At just 20, Rita knew what she was in for. She had given birth two years prior, to a girl. Rita wasn’t married then, so the priest from her Catholic fishing hamlet on the southern coast of Newfoundland had snatched the infant from her arms and slapped Rita across the face. The baby would be raised by an aunt and uncle.

Rita, a slip of a woman, with blond hair and a rollicking laugh, soon became pregnant again by the baby girl’s father, a burly, blue-eyed fisherman named Ches Hynes, who was 11 years her senior. The couple married in the summer of 1961, the same day their son Stephen was born. But their happiness was short-lived: Stephen died as an infant, in his sleep.

Now Rita was pregnant for a third time. At the hospital, she felt the intensifying crests of pain—at first bearable, and then searing as the night wore on. Just after midnight, she heard the cries of her eight-pound baby pierce the air. A boy! She named him Clarence Peter Hynes, after his godfather, who was a close friend of her husband’s, and her brother, who had died in a fishing accident. Clarence was deposited in the hospital’s nursery and tucked into a bassinet, while Rita dozed in the women’s ward. This time, she surely hoped, no one and nothing would take her baby.

Clarence, whom everyone calls Clar, grew up in a fishing town, St. Bernard’s, perched on the edge of Newfoundland’s Fortune Bay. He was the first in a steady stream of infants to arrive at the Hyneses’ home, a small taupe bungalow on a hill overlooking the quay, with its fish sheds painted the bright colors of jelly beans. As a youngster, Clar watched out the kitchen window for boats steaming into the crescent-shaped harbor and then furiously pedaled his bike down to the wharf. He earned $4 an hour unloading and weighing nets teeming with squid and silver cod.

Clar slept in a top bunk in a room he shared with his brothers. They were fairer than he was—Clar had a toasty complexion and a thick head of dark hair. When they wanted to torment him, his brothers called him Freddy Fender, after the Mexican-American musician. He grew to become a local heartthrob, with a chiseled brow and lean, muscular frame. Clar was a natural athlete who excelled at hockey and cross-country. Rita, a typical hockey mom, banged on the glass during his games and leaned over the railings to yell at the referees.

At 16, when Clar left home for Ontario to work on the Canadian Pacific Railway, Rita cried for days. She knelt on a chair at the kitchen window, clutching her rosary beads and praying to God to bring her son back. She kept all the letters he sent her in her closet. When Clar did return, driving his navy blue Chevy Camaro into the village after many months away, the teenage girls of St. Bernard’s swooned. “Oh, Clar is so handsome!” his sister, Dorothy, remembered hearing again and again—her friends were always talking about her big brother.

Clar was 24 when he met a woman named Cheryl at a motel bar in Marystown, farther down the boot-shaped peninsula from where he grew up. Clar had an on-and-off girlfriend at the time, but when he saw Cheryl he was smitten. With pretty, bow-shaped lips and curly blond hair, she was the belle of the bar. She’d recently moved back to Newfoundland from the Toronto area, where she’d worked as a hairstylist. Cheryl noticed Clar looking at her. She didn’t normally date guys from rural fishing communities, or “down over the road.” They were a hard bunch. But as she and Clar talked over beers and glasses of Screech rum and 7Up, Cheryl found him attentive and kind. They danced and chatted the night away. She didn’t want it to end.

They were marriedtwo years later in Marystown’s white, steepled Anglican church. The ceremony was packed to the gills with family. Rita wore a royal blue dress with puffed sleeves, and her husband Ches a dark gray suit. They were thrilled to see Clar tie the knot.

Rita was diagnosed with late-stage ovarian cancer a few years later, at 50. Clar nursed her as a mother would a baby. He held her and rocked her in the Hyneses’ old bungalow on the hill, making sure to face a window on the ocean so she could see the waves. Rita stayed with Clar and Cheryl at their home “in town,” as everyone calls Newfoundland’s capital city, St. John’s, during the futile treatment she underwent. Clar spoon-fed his mother bowls of fish and potatoes. He spent day after day with her right up until the end, so she would never be alone.

Five years after that, lung cancer took Ches.

Clar and Cheryl built a life together in St. John’s, raising three children of their own. When the fishery that had sustained generations of islanders collapsed, Newfoundland’s economy reoriented itself around the offshore oil and gas business. By 2014, Clar had a job as a welding foreman at Bull Arm, one of the industry’s major fabrication sites, where employees were building an oil platform that would eventually be towed out to sea.

That December, 52 years to the day after Rita brought him into the world, Clar overheard a woman in the hallway just outside his office sing out to a coworker, “It’s Craig’s birthday!” The woman’s name was Tracey Avery, and she was a cleaner at Bull Arm. She was talking about her husband, who also worked at the site. How funny, Clar thought. “It’s my birthday, too,” he said with a laugh.

“Yes, b’y,” Tracey replied. (B’y is pronounced “bye”—the Newfoundland expression is one of surprise, like “oh really?”) “How old are you?”

When Clar told her his age, Tracey’s next words came tumbling out: “Where were you born?”

“Come By Chance Cottage Hospital,” Clar said.

Tracey stood stock still for a second, her mouth agape. Then she ran, leaving her mop and cart behind. Clar shivered.

In that moment, a secret began to worm its way into the light: Another child had been taken from Rita Hynes—and she wasn’t alone.

From left: Clar Hynes; his childhood home in St. Bernard’s.

TWO

Depending on how you look at it, the stirring of this long-buried truth was sheer coincidence—one of those wild things that just happens—or it was inevitable, born of the quiddity of place. Newfoundland, the island portion of the sprawling Canadian province known as Newfoundland and Labrador, is a massive triangular rock in the Atlantic Ocean, colonized centuries ago for its fishing grounds. It has a rugged coastline, with hundreds of communities nestled into crooks, crannies, and coves. Some towns have blush-inducing names such as Heart’s Desire, Leading Tickles, and Dildo, and each is its own remote kingdom, fortified by rolling bluffs. Extended families are vast and tightly bound. For a long time they had to be. In such an austere place, it was a matter of survival. Today on “the rock,” as Newfoundland is affectionately known, your bay and your bloodline still define who you are—they are the first things people ask about when they meet you.

Getting anywhere along Newfoundland’s 6,000 miles of mountainous coast has always been a challenge. In the early 20th century, people in many of the island’s approximately 1,300 outports—the local term for fishing towns—had limited access to health care. Cottage hospitals, strategically located to serve dozens of outports at once, were intended to eliminate unnecessary death and suffering. They were a place to have your appendix out, get stitched up after an accident, or give birth and recover under the care of qualified doctors and nurses. They heralded a new dawn for Newfoundland. According to Edward Lake, a nurse and health administrator who worked in cottage hospitals and later wrote the definitive account of their history, they were the start of the most advanced rural health care program North America had ever seen, forerunners to Canada’s publicly funded national system.

The first seven cottage hospitals opened in 1936. One was located in the village of Come By Chance, which had been given its curious name by English colonists. As the story goes, in 1612, white explorers came ashore in one bay, only to discover a well-worn path to another bay on another coastline. The path had been cut by the indigenous Beothuk people. (The Beothuk were wiped out in the 19th century by the encroachment of white settlers.) The route led to the mouth of a river flush with salmon. It was a fortuitous find, which perhaps explains why the colonists later christened the settlement they built there Come By Chance. More than three centuries on, the village would prove a prime spot for a cottage hospital, with more than 50 outports close by.

The cottage hospitals were cookie-cutter clapboard buildings designed to be inviting. From the outside they looked like quaint residences. Strangely, in Come By Chance, the hospital was built the wrong way round, with its back to the road. For those inclined to superstition, the error might seem like an omen—a foretelling of bigger mix-ups to come.

Pregnant women arrived at the hospital in Come By Chance in an unending procession, by dirt road and dory, from capes and islets; many stayed in nearby boarding houses until their time came. Newfoundland and Labrador was the last province to join Canada, in 1949, an event that brought prosperity through access to national social programs. Baby bonuses—money paid to mothers with children under the age of 16—were a luxury for families subsisting on meager fisherman’s wages. The promise of cash spurred a baby boom. By 1958, Newfoundland’s families were, on average, the largest in Canada—households had seven, eight, even ten or more children. Many women returned to the cottage hospitals to give birth on a nearly annual basis.

Among them was Mildred Avery. She was petite, with dark, deep-set eyes, and came she from a Protestant hamlet called Hillview, on Trinity Bay. By the age of 29, five children, all boys, filled the biscuit-box house built by her husband, Donald; he’d towed the logs from the woods by horse and sled. On December 7, 1962, Mildred arrived in Come By Chance to deliver her sixth child. She slept off and on as contractions gradually unlocked the life inside her. At dawn the next morning the baby emerged, wailing heartily after taking its first breath. It was another boy, weighing in at six pounds, four ounces. Mildred named him Craig Harvey Avery, after her brother.

Seven hours earlier, Rita Hynes had given birth in the same hospital. The women didn’t know each other, and they never would. They were from opposing bays, separated by an expanse of rock and dead-end roads—some 75 miles that neither had reason to traverse. Also, back then, Catholics and Protestants rarely mixed.

Mildred took Craig home to Hillview, adding him to her brood. He and his brothers slept in a pack, like puppies in a pile. From the start Craig was different. Nobody in the Avery family could figure out who he looked like. He grew into a strapping blue-eyed jokester, nothing like his quiet, dark-haired siblings. 

Craig’s childhood was wild and full of mischief. He caught tomcods at the Hillview wharf, hunted duck and rabbit, and played hockey and softball until his mother’s calls echoed across the bay. His father worked variously as a woodcutter, carpenter, fisherman, and mason. Craig was often at his side. Donald had high, sculpted cheekbones, like those of a male fashion model. Craig had freckles and a bowl cut.

Mildred worried about her children as hard as she loved them. On Sundays she cooked Jiggs dinner, a traditional meal consisting of salt beef boiled with potatoes, turnips, and cabbage, served with roast moose, chicken, or turr, a plump black and white seabird. The aroma would waft up the road, beckoning her children home from play. Forever in service to her family, Mildred didn’t sit down to eat with Donald and the kids. She waited by the enamel cookstove until everyone else finished, then helped herself to what was left.

Craig quit school in the tenth grade and joined his brother Wayne in Ontario at an American Standard factory, making porcelain sinks and toilets. He was on the rowdy side, “a bit of a ticket,” as Newfoundlanders say—a guy who picked fights and chased all the pretty girls. He left his cowboy shirts unbuttoned at the collar and wore his hair in a tight perm. When he moved back to Hillview, Craig got odd jobs, cutting brush and helping build an extension on the wharf—he did a little bit of everything, just like his father. He became the brother who took care of family members when they needed a hand, stacking their wood or shoveling their snow.

Craig married his first wife, from the next cove over, in a little white church. Several years later, after three children and a divorce, he found his forever woman, the sister of one of the men he played softball with. Tracey was spunky, the type who didn’t miss a beat, with sparkling eyes and a coiffed brown bob. Eventually, they both got jobs at Bull Arm—the same site where Clar Hynes was employed.

It was Tracey who first noticed him, the man who looked strikingly like her in-laws. Clar had Mildred Avery’s brown eyes and strong nose, and he could have been the twin of one of Craig’s brothers. “My God, there’s someone there that looks so much like Clifford,” Tracey told her husband after her first day at the work site, in 2014. The Averys got to know Clar a little, in the somewhat formal way colleagues do. But they didn’t think much more about the uncanny likeness until that December.

After her exchange with Clar outside his office on his and Craig’s birthday, Tracey raced toward the tool storage area, where Craig was in charge of the equipment. She swung open the door, cursing in her yellow hard hat. “I got something to tell ya,” she sputtered, waving her arms at her husband, who was standing near the counter where workers checked out tools. “It’s gonna blow your mind—blow your mind.”

It’s also Clarence Hynes’s birthday, she said, and he’s 52! Just like you! And get this, Tracey continued, her voice rising: He was born at Come By Chance Cottage Hospital!

Husband and wife looked at each other, shock in their eyes. My God, Craig thought. His mother, amused by how different he was from his siblings, used to laugh and tell him, “My son, I don’t know where I got you.” Was it possible that a family joke was something more? Had Mildred Avery left Come By Chance with the wrong baby?

That night, Tracey and Craig sat up in their queen-size bed, talking and drinking black tea until the sun rose over the bluffs. It was a huge mental leap from recognizing a series of coincidences to wondering if he was switched at birth, but inside Craig knew—he just knew. Something clicked into place, a piece of his existence that had always stuck out awkwardly. His mind spun with questions: How did it happen? What was my life supposed to be like? Where would I be now? What would I be doing?

The Averys began to spy on Clar, more or less—they’d decided they needed photos of him to show Craig’s siblings. After a few days, Tracey got her chance. They were in the Bull Arm lunchroom, where they’d just finished their tuna sandwiches and green salads at their usual table, when they spotted Clar. Tracey held her phone up, surreptitiously snapping a picture of him in profile. Over the next few days, Craig texted the image to his brothers and sister. They shook their heads in disbelief. Craig’s older brother Clifford, the one who looked almost identical to Clar, eventually offered to do a DNA test to determine if Craig was really his kin.

When Tracey and Craig approached Clar to tell him about their suspicion, he found the whole thing outrageous. Sure, his mind  wandered briefly: Holy geez, Craig does look a lot like my brother. And he remembered some odd encounters he’d had over the years. There was the time in a toy store with his young daughter when he heard a woman say, “Cliff! Oh Cliff!” After repeated calls, to which he hadn’t responded, the woman approached him. “Oh,” she said, surprised when he shyly explained that his name was Clarence Hynes. “I thought you were Cliff Avery from Hillview.” He didn’t know who that was. On another occasion, a man waved from across the room during a job orientation. Politely, Clar waved back, though he didn’t recognize the man. Later the man came up and thumped him on the back. “I thought you were Clifford,” he said when he saw the bewildered look on Clar’s face. “You look a lot like my next door neighbor that I grew up with.”

Still, when the Averys told him their theory, Clar dismissed the possibility that he wasn’t the person he’d always been. Everyone looks like someone. He’d often been told that he looked like the cousins on his mother’s side. More important, he believed it.

At work, word spread fast. When people came to sign out tools from Craig’s counter, they wanted to talk about the possibility that he and Clar had been raised in the wrong homes. “Do you think it’s true?” they would ask. Craig showed them photos of his family members, who looked nothing like him and so much like Clar. Some Bull Arm employees who knew Clar from his childhood in St. Bernard’s were unequivocal: “I knew it, I knew it.” He’d never been like the other Hyneses.

For his own health and that of his kids, Clar had to be sure: Was he a Hynes or an Avery?

Tracey showed Clar photos of Craig’s siblings, but he barely looked at them. He didn’t want to see himself in their faces. He was starting to feel needled, and he bristled when people brought up the matter. At Bull Arm, he began to avoid the Averys. On the bus they all took together, he could feel their eyes on him. A DNA test was out of the question. “I’d just sooner not know,” he snipped after Craig mentioned the idea to him.

Craig got the email with the results comparing his DNA with Clifford’s in the late fall of 2015. He was too nervous to click on the message himself, so Tracey did it as they sat next to each other on the sofa, in their home just up the hill from where Craig was raised. A cascade of numbers filled the screen. Not only did he and Clifford not share the same father, but they weren’t even distantly related.

The first person Craig called was Clar. Even as he felt a wave of sadness, Clar wasn’t convinced that the news applied to him. “I guess I’m going to have to have it done, too,” he told Craig, though he still had no plans to be tested.

That winter, Clifford started calling Clar. He said he wanted to meet, but Clar always had an excuse. One day that spring, Clifford’s wife, Marilyn, found her husband down the lane behind their home, next to a gun and an empty shell casing. He’d taken his own life after quietly suffering from depression for several years, following the death of his eight-year-old son. Marilyn said the revelation about Craig not being his biological brother had also weighed on him, and that he couldn’t understand why Clar wouldn’t meet him.

All of Hillview turned out for Clifford’s funeral, but Clar, the rumored new brother, was noticeably absent. At work, Craig handed him the obituary, and Clar politely accepted it, but he couldn’t bring himself to read it. It has nothing to do with me, he told himself again.

After a few months, Clar thought that the matter had subsided, but then it all boomeranged back, as trauma is bound to. He and Cheryl still lived in St. John’s, but toward the end of 2016, he was renting a home in Hillview, because it was closer to Bull Arm—he wanted to avoid the treacherous daily commute through ice and snow, and the moose that wandered onto the highway after dark. When Craig’s sister Lorraine got wind that Clar was living nearby, she couldn’t contain her curiosity. After supper one night, Lorraine, her brother Wayne, and his wife, Pam, went to Clar’s rental and spotted him through the window, leaning into his fridge. “Oh my God. Oh my God,” Lorraine said, her legs going weak. The trio knocked on the door, and when Clar opened it, tears slid down Lorraine’s face. His eyes, she thought—they’re just like Mom’s.

Clar invited them inside. As far as Lorraine was concerned, he didn’t need to do a DNA test. He was the spitting image of Clifford. It was as if her brother were still alive.

They all stood in the kitchen sipping bottles of beer, and Clar noticed things about Lorraine that seemed like reflections of himself—her dark complexion, a chatty warmth that put others at ease. Then there was Wayne, leaning with one elbow on the forest-green countertop as he took swigs of beer. Clar had positioned himself the same way. It was like they were mimicking each other.

The truth seeped in slowly. It spread like a shadow that eventually enveloped him. In the weeks after Lorraine and Wayne’s visit, Clar began to feel uneasy in Hillview, and he took to driving home to St. John’s again every night. He would try to get a few hours of sleep next to Cheryl, with their dog, Lulu, at the end of the bed, but he was restless. For the first time in his life, he didn’t want to go to work. Unshoveled snow piled up in his driveway. He was usually energetic, someone who got things done before anyone else noticed they needed doing. Now he couldn’t function. He was like a bird caught in a crosswind. Clar moved from his bed to the chesterfield, the chesterfield to the bed, sometimes stopping to sob at the kitchen counter.

“I gotta get away from here,” he told Cheryl. “You’d be better off without me.”

Fearing the worst, Cheryl hid the car keys each night after supper, tucking them into a black plastic box high in the bedroom closet, where she also stashed all the medication in the house. Some nights, when he couldn’t sleep, Clar stayed with his younger brother Chesley, talking and crying with his head in his hands until dawn. Chesley had never seen Clar, 17 years his senior, in such a fragile state. Clar had always been a father figure, especially after their dad died when Chesley was still a teenager. Clar had taught him to drive in his Camaro, and to play hockey, basketball, and softball. To see the man he considered his rock careen off a cliff shook Chesley to his core. Each time Clar texted or called, Chesley breathed a sigh of relief: He’s still with us, he thought.

It took more than a year for Clar to surface from the abyss. He’d been unemployed, and his family was feeling the financial strain. His wife and sisters finally convinced him to see a doctor, and he was diagnosed with clinical depression. Once he was on the right medication, he slowly returned to his old self. That was when he decided it was time. He knew that mental illness ran in the Avery family, that Clifford had suffered from it. For his own health and that of his kids, Clar had to be sure: Was he a Hynes or an Avery?

When the test came back, in the winter of 2019, he called Craig, who was driving home from a hockey game. Clar had laid out his results on the kitchen counter next to Clifford’s, which Craig had shared with him. “Everything was a match,” Clar said. He and Clifford had been brothers. 

There was silence on both ends of the phone. Finally, Craig spoke: “We know now that it’s all real.”

What they didn’t know was that the story of the wrongs done at Come By Chance hospital was just beginning.

From left: The Avery family’s home in Hillview; Craig Avery.

THREE

The news of two men switched at birth reverberated up and down the Newfoundland coastline, eventually catching the attention of the local public broadcaster. A national audience was introduced to it in December 2019. The day the CBC released its report, Tracey Avery got a message from a woman who wanted to tell her a story. It was about a young couple who nearly lost one of their children in a mix-up at Come By Chance Cottage Hospital.

In August 1962, four months before Clar and Craig were born, Muriel and Cecil Stringer traveled home by taxi from the hospital with their infant son, Kent. In the back seat, Muriel’s mom, Lillian, held the baby boy, who was dressed in a blue knit sweater and bonnet. At one point, when the taxi pulled over and Cecil got out to buy a couple of bottles of Coca-Cola, Muriel, 19, peered at her son.

“Mom, that don’t look like my baby,” she said. The infant seemed smaller, with a pointier nose than she remembered. “Oh, it’s the clothes he got on,” Lillian replied.

On they drove, sipping Coke, down a bumpy road stretching into Trinity Bay, until they arrived at the young couple’s bungalow. Muriel and her mother gasped as they undressed the baby on the daybed—his armband didn’t say “Stringer.”

Cecil strode to the post office, which had the only telephone in town, and called the hospital. “How come the mother didn’t know her own child?” asked the nurse on the line. Cecil held his tongue; he knew the mix-up wasn’t Muriel’s fault. A nurse’s aide had handed the dressed baby to Lillian. All he cared to know was where his baby was.

At the hospital, 19-year-old Daphne Adams, lying in her cot in the women’s ward, heard a commotion down the hall. Her ears perked at the sound of her child’s name.

“What’s going on with my baby?” she asked the nurse on duty.

“It’s nothing,” the nurse told her.

Daphne pressed: “I heard you talking about my baby. What’s wrong with him?”

When she learned that her son was in Trinity Bay with another family, first she cried. Then she couldn’t sit still. The other women in the ward tried to console her, but a tide of anxiety pulled her to the front door, where she paced frantically, waiting. It was nearly dark when Cecil arrived and exchanged bundles with the nurse who met him on the steps.

Muriel and Daphne were in their late seventies when the news about Clar and Craig broke, but the memory of what had happened to them was still painful. For Muriel, there had been a second near miss. In October 1963, she returned to Come By Chance to give birth again. As she stood at the window of the nursery, gazing at her new baby girl, Norma, she noticed that the infant wasn’t wearing an identity band. She called out to a nurse, who discovered that, indeed, the band had gone missing.

“Well, get it back on her,” Muriel scolded. “’Cause that happened last year to me, and I don’t want it to happen again.”

“Oh,” the nurse replied, “was that you?”

The stories kept coming. It was like Clar and Craig’s revelation had opened the floodgates.

Tracey was flabbergasted to learn about Muriel’s and Daphne’s experience. It was the first of several shocks. The day after the CBC aired its story about her husband, Tracey was perusing the racks at Reitmans, a clothing store, for a new Christmas outfit when an acquaintance she hadn’t seen in years approached her. “I saw it on the news about Craig,” the woman said. She too had a story.

In 1968, her mother-in-law was discharged from Come By Chance Cottage Hospital with a baby boy. Once home, the woman and her family realized that they had the wrong baby. They had to take the child back to the hospital in the middle of a raging snowstorm to reclaim their own. (The family did not respond to questions for this story; the account of their experience is based on Tracey’s memory of the conversation at Reitmans.)

The stories kept coming. It was like Clar and Craig’s revelation had opened the floodgates. A week or two later, the Averys were at church in Hillview, sitting in a wooden pew waiting for the minister to start the service. As they chatted with other congregants about Craig and Clar being switched at birth, an older woman named Ivy Price piped up.

In 1966, Ivy gave birth at Come By Chance Cottage Hospital in the middle of the night. The next morning a nurse’s aide brought the baby to her in the women’s ward. The infant was swaddled, with only her tiny face poking out of the blanket. Ivy took one look and knew. “It’s not my baby,” she said.

“What do you mean?” she recalled the nurse’s aide asking. “How do you know?”

“It’s not my baby,” Ivy insisted. 

They went back and forth arguing until the aide finally returned to the nursery. She came back with another infant—the right one. According to Ivy, the woman said the baby’s name tag must have come off. “I was one of the lucky ones,” Ivy told me recently. 

There were other incidents, including one in Craig’s own family that happened in 1950, earlier than the others. His great-aunt Dorothy had a baby boy, Walter, in Come By Chance. As she lay on her cot, she heard the sound of her baby’s cries across the ward. He was in another woman’s arms. “That’s my baby you got there,” Dorothy said, according to her son Larry. When she asked a nurse to look into it, sure enough, Walter had been given to the wrong mother. It was pure luck that she heard him cry, and mother’s intuition that she recognized the sound. “If she had’ve been out of the room, off the ward, it could’ve been a different outcome,” Larry said.

Then there was the case Craig heard about through the Newfoundland grapevine, which he was finally able to confirm when he was making calls for a candidate running in a provincial election. His call list happened to include a man whose name he recognized, in a place called Hatchet Cove. When Craig phoned, after giving his spiel about the forthcoming vote, he asked if there had been a baby mix-up in the man’s family. Sure enough, the man said that in the late 1950s or early 1960s—he wasn’t sure when exactly—his aunt and uncle brought the wrong baby home from Come By Chance. Once they realized what had happened, they drove back to the hospital to retrieve their child.

One mistake is an accident; several is a pattern. “What was going on at that hospital?” Craig said. “Was it done accidentally or was it done on purpose?”

Digging for answers led the Averys and the Hyneses to a nurse with an odd nickname. “When have you ever heard of an angel of mercy being referred to as Tiger?” asked Edward Lake, the author of a book about cottage hospitals. It was this woman, Nurse Tiger, on whose watch most of the known baby mix-ups in Come By Chance took place.

The town of Come By Chance.

FOUR

In the early 20th century, recruitment of nurses from outside Newfoundland was organized first by a Christian organization, and later by a women’s knitting circle that sold their goods to raise hiring money. Most of the nurses were young women from the United Kingdom, and they took the job because they wanted an adventure, a chance to travel overseas before settling down. Many were surprised by Newfoundland’s rugged emptiness, locals’ sometimes incomprehensible brogue, and their unorthodox duties, which included treating pets along with their owners. Few nurses stayed on in Newfoundland, unless they married a local man. The rest went back across the pond after serving a two- or three-year term.

Christina Anne Callanan was different. She was born in the Irish city of Galway in 1924. She trained to be a nurse and, at age 19, moved to Canada for work. In her thirties, she relocated to Newfoundland. She arrived at the lonely train station in Come By Chance in or around 1955. Come By Chance wasn’t as far-flung as some communities in Newfoundland, with daily train service to St. John’s, but it could barely be called a town. Only 150 or so people lived there. Besides the bustling cottage hospital, Come By Chance had one road, a post office, and a general store.

Callanan was a sophisticated newcomer by local standards. She had a posh accent, albeit with a faint lisp from a cleft-palate repair above the left side of her mouth. She always looked immaculate—“like a stick of chewing gum,” as they say in Newfoundland—with gleaming shoes, crimson lips, and a crisp white uniform.

Some staff who worked alongside Callanan are still alive. There are those too old to recollect anything clearly, and some who won’t talk because they’re worried about being blamed for babies who were switched at birth, or because they don’t want to say anything that might be construed as negative. Others, though, spoke candidly with me about the woman they knew.

Callanan was brisk and competent, the first to emerge from her quarters on the second floor of the Come By Chance hospital each morning, and the first to scrub up for surgery. It wasn’t long before she rose to the position of head nurse, which, in addition to delivering babies and assisting in the operating room, required managing the office, distributing prescriptions, and supervising staff. Some colleagues described her as like a big sister who took them under her wing, teaching them how to deliver a placenta and asking that they drive her to social gatherings. Upstairs in the staff’s common area, Callanan was often found after hours with her feet up, nursing a drink.

But other colleagues found Callanan to be difficult, a trait some of them learned to soften by complimenting her on her short dark hair or pristine uniform. Her underlings called her Nurse Tiger behind her back, for her fiery, domineering ways. Some described her as like an army sergeant who put everyone on edge. She was known for pillorying the young nurses and their aides. “Where’s your hat?” she would roar across the room to a young woman who’d forgotten it that day.

The cottage hospital system had strict professional protocols, but the isolation of many of its outposts and the responsibility of serving multiple communities at once meant that they were often swamped. There were never enough hands to deal with the waves of emergencies—the car-accident victims bleeding out as they were carried up the front steps, the sick islanders moaning in the wards. At times in Come By Chance, when the nursing staff were run off their feet, kitchen workers or X-ray techs stepped in to help. At another cottage hospital, according to Edward Lake, a man hired as a janitor pulled teeth, set broken bones, and helped deliver babies.

Christina Callanan

In Come By Chance, there were babies galore. The nursery was often packed wall-to-wall with squinch-faced newborns. When all the bassinets were full, babies were deposited in red and white Carnation milk crates. There was always a surplus of these; canned milk was, and still is, a staple in Newfoundland, served with coffee and tea. Back then Carnation was what many people fed their babies—it was said to prevent rickets.

Nurse’s aides, who were as young as 16 and didn’t have medical training, were overworked, with little to no time off. They were often the ones who looked after the babies at night while the mothers slept in the wards. They warmed bottles of milk, scooped up crying infants to console them, and changed soiled diapers.

The bassinets and milk crates were supposed to be labeled. Aides and other staff were warned: Make sure the name on the label matches the baby’s armband, and make sure both match what’s on the mother’s hospital bracelet. But sometimes armbands slipped off after the swelling in the babies’ limbs—a common occurrence after birth—went down. If a nurse or an aide was in a rush, a baby could easily be placed in the wrong bassinet or crate. A mother might even make that mistake. “Some people couldn’t read in those days,” said Marie Parsons, a former cottage hospital nurse. “It was impossible to watch people all the time. It was so, so busy.”

By all accounts, Callanan ran a tight ship, but after one particular birth, according to Lake, something changed. She was having a difficult time delivering the placenta, the last stage of the process. She might have been kneading the woman’s uterus and asking her to push, growing increasingly worried as the afterbirth failed to appear, when a nurse’s aide got in her way. The aide was trying to put the correct identity band on the baby—protocol dictated that both the infant’s and the mother’s bands be attached immediately following birth, in the delivery room. But Callanan became annoyed and sent the aide out of the room. “Do that outside,” she said. “It needn’t be done here. Do that in the next room or out on the ward.”

From that point on, protocol was relaxed. Identity bands could be attached to mother and baby after they’d been separated, once the infant was in the nursery with the other newborns. “That was a recipe for disaster,” Lake told me. “It’s easy to make mistakes, and back then you’re talking about nurse’s aides who weren’t highly educated and didn’t have the training to recognize the dangers of certain things.

“Callanan may have been a capable midwife,” Lake continued, “but her overbearing style of supervision made her an incompetent nurse.”

Callanan was in charge in December 1962, when Craig and Clar were born. She delivered both babies, and it’s her name, signed with tight, curlicued C’s, atop the medical records of the births. Mildred Avery’s paperwork contains a discrepancy—it notes twice that she was discharged with Craig on December 8, but a third notation says she went home on December 10. A person can’t be discharged twice. The error could mean nothing, but perhaps it points to the kind of organizational disarray that allowed babies to go home with the wrong parents. December 10 was the day records show that Rita Hynes went home with Clar. Was it possible that the correct last name was still attached to Clar, on an armband or a milk crate, so that when he went home with Rita on December 10, it was recorded that the Avery baby had been discharged? 

When Lake looked at the medical records, he was taken aback at the brief amount of time each mother spent in the hospital. Back then women usually stayed several days, even up to a week, to recuperate from giving birth, but the records show Mildred may have gone home as home as early as the day her son was born. Rita was discharged two days after delivery. “It was inconsistent with the times,” Lake said. “It makes me wonder what in the hell the staff were doing there.” It appeared to Lake as if the hospital was so busy that new mothers were treated as if they were on “an assembly line.”

In August 1962, according to Cecil Stringer, it was Callanan who answered the phone when he called to report that he and Muriel had just brought home a baby who wasn’t theirs. The nurse’s harsh words still trouble him when he thinks of them today: How come the mother didn’t know her own child? They might be a clue to understanding what happened in Come By Chance. Perhaps Callanan would blame anyone but herself, including mothers recovering from childbirth, for blunders made by hospital staff. Mistakes happen, of course; no one is immune from making them. But there is acute danger in thinking you’re infallible.

There was also the problem of oversight—or lack of it. A director of nursing employed by Newfoundland’s department of health made semiannual or annual visits to the cottage hospitals, but Lake believes the appointments should have been more frequent. Perhaps, too, mistakes should have led to consequences for those who made them. “They all knew about Tiger and her reputation,” Lake said, referring to the various directors of nursing. “They were primarily to blame for any errors or ill treatment in that cottage hospital. By not taking any decisive action, they condoned Tiger’s approach as head nurse.”

Callanan worked at Come By Chance Cottage Hospital for about a decade. By 1964, a few years before she left, complaints about her had already piled up at the department of health, according to Lake. Some of them came from nurse’s aides who described her as overbearing. The staff who lived in the hospital found that there was no separation between work and home life: They felt bullied by day and knew they’d face punishment if they stepped out of line after hours—missing curfew, for instance—since Callanan ruled the nurses’ quarters just as she did the wards.

Callanan eventually moved to St. John’s. She found a job at a children’s hospital but left after a few years because, according to her former boss, she didn’t want to work night shifts anymore. She later became the head nurse at one of Newfoundland’s most remote cottage hospitals, located in the windswept town of Channel–Port aux Basques. She stayed there for two decades. Colleagues from Channel–Port aux Basques whom I spoke to said Callanan was never careless—quite the opposite. Once, in 1971, her insistence against a doctor’s orders that a baby be treated at a larger hospital saved his life. The baby’s mother, Jane Allen, said that her infant son was slowly starving due to a twist in his intestines. “If she hadn’t been so concerned about him, he would not have made it,” Allen told me. “She was a kinda by the book nurse, but very compassionate at the same time.”

As Lake writes in his book, the cottage hospitals “were only as good as the attitudes of the doctors and nurses who formed their cores.” Callanan certainly wasn’t the only nurse to commit errors, and Come By Chance wasn’t the only hospital where mix-ups happened. Former nurse Marie Parsons told me that she gave the wrong baby to a mother once, an error that was quickly rectified. Lisa Brown, who worked in medical records at the Channel–Port aux Basques Cottage Hospital, was herself switched at birth, albeit briefly, in 1955. The morning after she was born, the nurses brought the newest infants into the ward and handed them off to their mothers. Baby Lisa was given to the wrong woman, who quickly spoke up.

“My dear,” she said to the nurse, “you gave me the wrong baby. This little baby looks so much like John Farrell.” She was referring to Lisa’s father, an acquaintance. 

Such an encounter could only happen in a place like Newfoundland, where your neighbors and the wider community, precisely because it’s never that wide, are often intimately familiar; where it’s possible to look at someone and know who their kin are. What led the woman holding Lisa to realize that she had the wrong baby—the recognition of one person’s face in another’s—is what piqued Tracey and Craig Avery’s curiosity about Clar Hynes.

At Come By Change Cottage Hospital, however, that same intimacy seems to have been treated as something it never could be: a fail-safe. 

From left: Rita and Ches Hynes; Mildred and Donald Avery.

FIVE

Newfoundland’s baby mix-ups bespeak a time and a place—they happened in an era when people from the outports were glad to have access to medical care at all, when newborns were stashed in milk crates, when untrained staff were put in charge of important tasks, when identification processes for newborns could be slipshod. But none of these bygone circumstances minimize the harm that still ramifies today.

Together, Clar and Craig and their families decided to sue the Newfoundland government for the cottage hospital’s negligence—for failing to ensure accurate identification of newborns, and for discharging babies with the wrong parents—and the irreparable damage done by it. They believe the department of health should have intervened, investigated mistakes made by and complaints lodged against Callanan, and set more stringent birth-management policies. If action had been taken after the Stringers were given the wrong baby a few short months before Clar and Craig were born, maybe they would have gone to the right homes. “There was a problem there,” Craig said, “and they didn’t fix it.”

The stress, the strain, the psychological toll has been tremendous, said the men’s lawyer, Bob Buckingham. “Something like this, you don’t expect it’s going to happen. It uproots your psyche. It’s not like being involved in a car accident where you have a broken leg or a broken limb or even a head trauma,” he explained. “This just takes your whole being and says to you: ‘This is not who I am, and who I am is over here.’” Technically, a 30-year statute of limitations applies to the case, but Buckingham believes that because Craig and Clar had no way of knowing the switch had occurred, an exception should be made. (He hopes the case may compel the government to change the law.)

The Averys and Hyneses are also pushing for a public inquiry—an official review of how the switch happened, and of the possibility that there are more cases to investigate. There were 18 other cottage hospitals in the province; the last one closed in 1994. When I reached out to the government agencies in charge of health care and justice on the island, both offered a boilerplate response: The issue is before the courts, so we cannot comment.

As they wait for the legal case to proceed, the Hyneses and the Averys are coming to grips with what happened. Clar’s youngest sister, Dorothy, has had perhaps the most difficult time of it. “Screw them,” she told Clar when she first learned that the Averys wanted him to get a DNA test. “Let them live however they want to live.” When Clar called with his results, she bawled for days and struggled to breathe through panic attacks, the first of her life. Big brother Clar had been the pillar of the family since their parents died. When Dorothy got married, Clar walked her down the aisle. “Find a man like Uncle Clar,” she would always tell her daughters. Now it felt like she was losing him.

In the summer of 2019, Craig came to visit St. Bernard’s for the first time. He drove up the steep, rocky driveway to the taupe bungalow where his birth parents, long dead, had lived most of their lives. Bottles of beer clinked in the cooler in the back, next to the tray of pistachio-pudding tarts Tracey prepared for the occasion. A gaggle of Craig’s genetic siblings stood waiting in the dooryard. His stomach was in knots.

Dorothy wasn’t ready to meet her new brother—not yet. She hid in a camper parked near the house, where she could get a look at Craig through the window. There he was, a broad-shouldered man who stood like her dad and had her mother’s hearty laugh. She forced herself out the camper door and walked toward him, tears streaming. Craig swept her into a tight hug.

Craig stood outside for an hour and a half in drizzling rain before he could bring himself to step inside the bungalow, the scene of his stolen childhood. At the kitchen counter, he numbly cracked lobster claws with Clar, conscious that all this—the view, the people, the walls—should have been home. Over plates piled high with lobster, fried cod, and scallops, the Hynes siblings took in their new brother’s mustached grin, how he palmed his fork like their father had, how he too walked with a slight hunch, heaving himself from side to side. It was like he just fit. 

Oh there you are, thought Dorothy, her hard shell melting—you’re the one we’ve been waiting for.

“It’s just a cruel, cruel, cruel thing,” Dorothy told me. “How did it fall through the cracks so bad? I would never trade Clar for anything, but how did this happen?”

Craig and Clar have become like brothers, but their bond is something altogether different. They spend time together, and with their various siblings, on snowmobile excursions punctuated by boil-ups—an afternoon snack of tea, chili, toasted bread, and hot dogs roasted over a crackling fire. On weekends they stay at Craig’s getaway cabin or park their camper-vans in St. Bernard’s, in a spot where they can watch the sun set from lawn chairs, eating freshly steamed mussels strewn on a flat rock. They find comfort in the tics and mannerisms of cherished family members that they see in each other. Craig reminds Clar of his father—the way he taps one arm with two fingers on the opposite hand, the way he sits when he eats, hunched over with his knees apart. “You would swear it was my old man eating there instead of Craig,” Clar said. “It’s unbelievable.” For Craig, looking at Clar’s eyes is like looking at Clifford’s or his mother’s.

Carol, one of Clifford’s three daughters, has been getting to know Clar, too. She recently dropped off a Christmas card and an invitation to her wedding at his home. It’s a way to feel close to her father. “It’s like he’s here, even though I know it’s a different person. I feel that’s what has been helping me get through everything, just looking at him and being reminded of Dad,” Carol said. “I want to get to know him more because of how much Dad wanted to meet him.”

The unknowns are as vast as the blue-black Atlantic, and if Craig and Clar aren’t careful, they can be just as menacing. The men try not to indulge too much in the what-ifs and if-onlys, lest they find themselves seized by an emotional riptide. It’s been hard lately. With declining oil prices, Newfoundland’s fossil fuel industry cratered, and Craig was laid off at work. The COVID-19 pandemic, which forced the province into lockdown, made matters worse. Craig has struggled to fill his days and keep his mind from wandering. He used to be more easygoing, but now he’s quick to anger. “It’s just hard trying to deal with it all the time, trying to keep going,” he told me. “How do you get back all these years? How do you get back all that you missed? You’ll never get it back. You’ll never have the brother-sister connection that you would’ve had growing up. You’ll be good friends, but you’ll never have the brother-sister connection.” 

For his part, Clar keeps inordinately busy. When he’s not at work, he’s been building a new garage, installing gyprock walls at his daughters’ rental properties, and constructing a cabin in St. Bernard’s. The tasks help keep his emotions at bay, especially the regret about the family he never met.

All the parents—Rita and Ches, Mildred and Donald—are gone now, a sad fact that nonetheless means that the families don’t have to navigate an extra layer of emotional turmoil. Clar said he wouldn’t have got the DNA test if his parents were still alive. For them to learn that they’d lost another child would have been too much. His sister, Gladys, who lives in their childhood home overlooking the harbor in St. Bernard’s, still cries every day. “My parents don’t know none of this and they never will,” she said, breaking down. It would have killed them, she added, to learn that their baby was whisked away to another bay, and that they knew nothing about how he was raised.

Mildred was the last parent to die, about a month after Tracey first realized Craig and Clar had the same birthday. She was in a nursing home, beset by dementia. Even if she’d heard the truth, Mildred wouldn’t have understood. 

Clar watched a video of his birth mother for the first time in February 2020. “Come on over and see this,” Cheryl called out to him one day. Sitting in their living room looking at Cheryl’s phone, they watched footage of Mildred dancing with Craig in the nursing home, stepping side to side, Mildred dressed in a red cotton Christmas sweater. As Clar took in her short gray curls, the eyes like shiny river stones, the long nose that was also his own, he shook his head in awe.

This was the woman in whose body he grew, who labored to give him life, who surely loved him at first sight. This was the closest to her that he could ever be.

From top: the quay in St. Bernard’s; Craig Avery in Hillview’s cemetery.

SIX

I hoped to find Callanan—Nurse Tiger—to ask her how such a grievous error was made on her watch, but she died long ago. I learned that when the cottage hospital in Channel–Port aux Basques became part of a larger health care center, Callanan struggled to adapt. “She found it very stressful,” said Sandra Moss, a fellow nurse. “When things didn’t go her way she couldn’t accept it. She had a bit of this streak: ‘I’m the nurse in charge and this is how it is.’ And sometimes you need to be a little bit more flexible than that.” Ultimately, according to a former colleague, Callanan retired about a year before she’d intended.

It was difficult to find anyone who knew her well. Most of her relationships seemed to be peripheral ones, made at work, but she did keep at least one close connection for many years—a former patient who helped her find a place to live in Hantsport, Nova Scotia, when she retired. She knew no one there, and no one knew her.

She was found dead in her home one spring day in 1993. Callanan was 68. News of her passing drifted back to Newfoundland, to the people she used to work with at the cottage hospitals, but no one I spoke to attended her funeral at a Catholic church. Today, her granite headstone stands on a Canadian riverbank, amid those of strangers and their families, an ocean away from whatever kin she had left.

I heard stories about Callanan that made my heart ache. She was known as a loner in Channel–Port aux Basques. One year, a group of hospital staff went out one Tipsy Eve—a Newfoundland tradition, akin to a pub crawl, that involves going house to house on December 23—and visited Callanan’s small apartment last, on a whim. She came to the door, overjoyed to see people, and pulled a turkey out of the oven. How many years had she carved up a bird on her own?

It’s hard not to compare that story with another one. In 2020, Wayne Avery was diagnosed with kidney cancer and had to undergo surgery. A subsequent stroke left him partially paralyzed, living in the hospital and relearning to walk at the age of 66. As newfound blood brothers, Clar and Wayne had grown close over the previous few years, and Clar became a constant in Wayne’s time of need, texting him, visiting him, and delivering meals of homemade soup and fish and chips. On New Year’s Day 2021, before Clar sat down to eat with Cheryl and the wider Hynes clan, he carried two plates of foil-wrapped turkey dinner to the hospital for Wayne and his wife.

Clar wasn’t the only one who pitched in. Craig and Tracey whipped up comfort food: Jiggs dinner, just the way Mildred used to make it—minus the peas pudding—with Wayne’s favorite meat, roast turr with gravy. A few days before Wayne finally returned to his home in Hillview, there was a family tragedy: Clyde, another of the Avery brothers, died suddenly. Clar and Cheryl drove over from St. John’s and stayed with Craig and Tracey for the funeral. They mourned Clyde as Clar’s sibling, sharing in their grief with people they once hardly knew.

Nothing can undo or excuse that terrible mistake made in Come By Chance, but before there was any knowledge of wrong families, there were loving ones. Now there’s something else: an unlikely unit of Hyneses and Averys, welded together by the cruelest of truths, and also by compassion and devotion. Is that better, at least, than having no family at all—no one to know that look in your eyes when you smile, to boost your spirits by making your favorite childhood meals, to miss you when you’re gone?

The truth was always out there, waiting to be discovered. Newfoundland’s proximity and familiarity were the tides that finally washed it ashore. It will reverberate through the years, through children and grandchildren and their heirs, who when asked, “What bay are you from?” will know that the answer isn’t simple.

The truth also leaves another question lingering, like a whisper on the wind: How many more are out there?

“I don’t think Craig and I were the only ones,” Clar said, referring to babies switched at birth whose families never knew, who still don’t know. When he’s home in St. Bernard’s, he looks at local families differently. When someone appears a little unlike the rest, he can’t help but wonder whether there’s a secret there, just beneath the surface.


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Cat and Mouse

Cat and Mouse

With dozens of felines turning up dead around London, a pair of pet detectives set out to prove it was the work of a serial killer.

By Phil Hoad

The Atavist Magazine, No. 112


Phil Hoad is a writer, reporter, and film critic. He lives in the South of France. Follow him on Twitter: @phlode. Listen to Phil on the Creative Nonfiction Podcast, talking about pounding the pavement with the pet detectives of South London.

Editor: Jonah Ogles
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Adam Przybyl
Illustrator: Laura Breiling

Published in February 2021.

“You have to look!” Johnnie Walker commanded. “Closing your eyes isn’t going to change anything. Nothing’s going to disappear just because you can’t see what going on. In fact, things will be even worse the next time you open your eyes.”

—Haruki Murakami, Kafka on the Shore

I.

It was the body on the south London doorstep that got everyone’s attention. On the bright morning of September 23, 2015, a woman walked outside her home to find a cream-and-coffee-colored pelt, like a small furry Pierrot. It had dark forelegs, and its face was a smoky blot. It was a cat, slit throat to belly; its intestines were gone.

The woman rang the authorities, who came and disposed of the body. Three days later, she looked at a leaflet that had come through her mail slot, asking whether anyone had seen Ukiyo, a four-year-old ragdoll mix whose coat matched that of the dead cat. The woman broke the bad news to Ukiyo’s owner, Penny Beeson, who lived just down Dalmally Road, a nearly unbroken strip of poky, pebble-dashed row houses in the Addiscombe area of Croydon.

Beeson was inconsolable. “I shook for the whole day,” she later told The Independent

“R.I.P ukiyo I feel devastated,” her son, Richard, posted on Facebook. “Hacked to death and left on someone’s doorstep. Some people are so sick!”

A few days later, Addiscombe’s letter boxes clacked again as another leaflet was delivered. This one warned that Ukiyo’s demise wasn’t an isolated incident—there had been a troubling spate of cat deaths in the area. The leaflet was printed by a local group called South Norwood Animal Rescue and Liberty, or SNARL.

Tony Jenkins, one of SNARL’s founders, had recently become his own master. At 51, with a reassuring, yeomanly face and a golden tinge at the very tip of his long, gray ponytail, Jenkins was laid off after 25 years working for a nearby government council. He hadn’t gotten along with his boss, so getting sacked came as something of a relief. With a year’s severance in his pocket, “I was enjoying my downtime,” Jenkins said. That included being with his girlfriend, a 44-year-old South African who went by the name Boudicca Rising, after the first-century Celtic warrior queen who fought the Romans to save the Britons. Among other things, Rising and Jenkins shared feelings of guardianship toward animals. Their homes at one point housed 34 cats, a dog, two gerbils, and a cockatoo between them. The couple had formed SNARL together.

Scanning Facebook one day in September 2015, about a week before Ukiyo was found dead, Jenkins stumbled upon a post from the nearby branch of the United Kingdom’s largest veterinarian chain, Vets4Pets, that described four gruesome local incidents in the past few weeks: a cat with its throat cut, one with a severed tail, another decapitated, and a fourth with a slashed stomach. Only the final cat had survived. Jenkins told Rising about the post. “That doesn’t sound right,” she said. “We need to do some digging.”

Digging was her forte. Always impeccably dressed, with an ornate gothic kick, and unfailingly in heels, Rising was a multitasking demon on a laptop. By day she worked for an office management company. By night she was part of the global alliance of animal rights activists. She was one of many people who used small details in online videos of a man torturing felines to identify the culprit, a Canadian man named Luka Magnotta. He was reported to police, who didn’t take the allegations seriously, and Magnotta went on to murder and chop up his lover in 2012—a crime recounted in the Netflix documentary Don’t F**k with Cats.

On the heels of Ukiyo’s death, Rising and Jenkins distributed SNARL’s leaflets throughout Addiscombe, warning of the threat to local felines. While to an uninterested eye some of the attacks might have appeared to be the indiscriminate cruelty of nature—the work of a hungry predator, say—SNARL believed they might be a series of linked and deliberate killings. Whether the crimes were perpetrated by an individual or a group SNARL wasn’t sure. It hoped the leaflets would help turn up more information. 

SNARL soon had reports of more incidents in the area, for a total of seven: one cat missing, two with what SNARL subsequently described as “serious injuries,” and four dead. Rising said that vets who saw the deceased cats’ bodies told her the mutilations had been made with a knife. On September 29, SNARL sent out an alert on its Facebook page saying as much. The cats’ wounds, the group insisted, “could only have been inflicted by a human. Their bodies have been displayed in such a way as to cause maximum distress.” 

That was SNARL’s official line. On Rising’s personal page she went further, emphasizing her belief that Addiscombe was dealing with a serial killer. “This is a psychopath,” she wrote.

“That doesn’t sound right,” Rising said. “We need to do some digging.”

On the afternoon of October 24, 2015, two miles southeast of Addiscombe, 47-year-old Wayne Bryant picked his way over the fallen leaves of Threehalfpenny Wood, named for a 19th-century murder victim found there with that sum of money in his pocket. The dry autumn air kept Bryant alert as his wide-spaced blue eyes scanned left and right and he listened to the wind hissing through the oak canopy. Bryant’s cat, Amber, like many domestic felines, kept regular hours with her comings and goings, but the previous day she hadn’t returned in the mid-afternoon as she usually did. When Amber didn’t show up the following morning, Bryant and his wife, Wendy, formed a search party.

A few years before, Bryant had suffered a serious spinal injury at work, causing a leak of cerebrospinal fluid and, eventually, several hematomas. Animals had always been a big part of his life—he and Wendy had a menagerie of rescue pets, from dogs to guinea pigs to lizards—but as he struggled with memory problems and long-term unemployment, the emotional support they provided became irreplaceable. Bryant had had Amber for eight years, since she was a six-week-old kitten. “A friendly little thing,” he told the website AnimalLogic. “A little curtain-climber.” 

As they searched the woods, Bryant’s wife called to him. In a small clearing off a path, sheltered by a cluster of exposed tree roots, the ball of black and orange fur was unmistakable. But Amber was headless and tailless, except for that appendage’s very tip, which had been placed on her belly. The couple were sickened. They shrouded their beloved pet in a towel and took her home. Then Bryant remembered an article in the Croydon Advertiser about a group convinced that several recent cat killings were all connected.

A couple of hours later, Jenkins and Rising were at Bryant’s door. “I remember Wayne’s first words to me: ‘Ain’t no fox did that,’” Jenkins told me. “If I ever write a book about this, that’s what I’d call it.”

It was the first time either Jenkins or Rising had come face-to-face with a suspected cat killing. Neither of them had any forensics training. Unwrapping the towel that held Amber, they noted the clean severing of her head and tail, which seemed to corroborate Bryant’s view that no animal could be responsible. They asked the family to show them the crime scene. There was no blood on the ground, meaning that either her injuries were inflicted after death or Amber was killed elsewhere and moved to the spot in Threehalfpenny Wood where her owners found her. Rising and Jenkins took Amber’s body to a vet for further examination.

Bryant gave a statement to the police, and Rising went to the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA), the UK’s main animal welfare charity. She later claimed that a representative brushed her off, saying that a fox probably killed Amber. Besides, the RSPCA dealt primarily with instances of cruelty in which the victims were still alive: It received more than 11,000 complaints a year in Greater London alone.

Jenkins was incredulous when he heard about the RSPCA’s response. “Although Croydon’s got a bad reputation, a lot of crime, I don’t think our foxes carry knives. And foxes certainly do not kill cats,” he said. At least, “it’s very, very rare.” He doubted that scavenging creatures would be interested in removing and eating feline heads and tails. Rather, they’d go for the nutritious internal organs, and SNARL hadn’t seen that kind of damage in any killing other than Ukiyo’s.

In October, there was another suspected cat killing in Croydon. Then SNARL began to get reports from farther afield, one in neighboring Mitcham and two in nearby West Norwood. Nick Jerome’s cat, Oscar, was found headless on his street. “None of us went to pieces over it, but it was obviously distressing at the time,” he said. In Coulsdon, on the southern edge of Croydon, David Emmerson discovered his cat, Missy, decapitated and tailless. His 18-year-old daughter, already struggling with the loss of her aunt the previous year, was devastated. Emmerson never told his autistic son the full story of what happened. The truth was too ugly. “I never grew up as a cat person,” he said, “but maybe because we got her as a kitten, she became one of us. Mine was the lap she chose to sit on when she sat down. I’m not sure why. I adored her.”

The RSPCA had its party line and wasn’t getting involved, but that didn’t stop the local press, which knew a good story when it heard one. By mid-November, reporters had made a lurid christening: The Croydon Cat Killer was on the prowl.


Jenkins and Rising turned to the law for help. They met with officers in Croydon’s branch of the Metropolitan Police Service, who claimed not to have any cat killings on record. Rising referred the officers to reports the police had in fact handed to owners, and the vet records that had been filed in some of those cases. “They seemed clueless,” Rising said of the police. “Outside on the steps we realized: It’s going to be down to us.”

SNARL’s founders decided to muster evidence to present to the RSPCA and the Met. They arranged for a vet in Addiscombe, Deane Braid-Lewis, to conduct postmortems on ten cat corpses, including Amber’s. It cost £5,000—nearly $7,000—all of it raised on GoFundMe. Braid-Lewis concluded that only a “large sharp blade” could have made such clean incisions. He found no sign of bite marks that would suggest predation or scavenging by other animals. He couldn’t state with certainty that the same hand had wielded the knife in all ten cases, but he believed that the perpetrator’s skill level had improved over time. Amber had a fractured spine and generalized bleeding in the thoracic cavity, both signs of blunt-force trauma that he found in many of the other animals he examined. SNARL believed this meant that the killer was bludgeoning the pets to death, maybe after luring them with food. Braid-Lewis also found an unknown substance under Amber’s claws: Had she scratched the killer? Might it contain DNA?

According to Rising, Andy Tarrant, the borough commander for the Croydon police, initially refused to test the sample. He told her that Amber’s body had been handled by too many people to produce a conclusive result. When eventually it was tested, the material proved to be carpet fibers. (The Met wouldn’t let individual officers comment for this story.)

Skeptical cops like Tarrant might have been reliving memories of Operation Obelisk, a four-month Met investigation in 1999 focused on a run of cat killings—it produced a frenzy of media speculation about satanic rituals, only to end with an announcement that, indeed, foxes had been scavenging roadkill. But even if the authorities got on board with SNARL’s hypothesis, the law didn’t exactly guarantee a harsh outcome if the killer was found. It’s not illegal to kill an animal; without carefully worded language, such a statute would have the awkward side effect of making every slaughterhouse the site of mass murder. Despite the UK having some of the strictest animal welfare protections in the world, the maximum sentence for cruelty is still only 51 weeks behind bars, a fine of £20,000 (about $27,000), or both. In practice, any sentence is usually six months or less, because crimes involving animal cruelty tend to be treated as minor offenses. The killer, if he existed, might be sued for criminal damages, as pets are property. From a police perspective, the prosecution options, let alone the evidence, didn’t merit the time or money that a serious investigation would require.

But members of the British public wouldn’t let the cat deaths go quietly. On SNARL’s Facebook page, people commiserated and provided comfort.

“Poor baby, and their fur parents!” 

“Furbabies need a human voice sometimes—no more than now.”

“Run free at Rainbow Bridge poor puss” (a reference to “crossing the rainbow bridge,” a description among animal lovers of what happens when a pet dies).

Some of the bereaved cat owners accompanied Jenkins, Rising, and a number of SNARL volunteers to an open Q&A with the Met at Croydon College on the evening of Wednesday, December 2. Sir Bernard Hogan-Howe, commissioner for the whole of London, fielded questions on community matters as Tarrant moderated. When Tarrant announced that he was about to take the last question, someone pointed out that SNARL’s founders and supporters had had their hands up the whole time. Tarrant called on one of them. “Are you aware that someone is going around London killing cats, decapitating them, and leaving their remains to be found?” asked a SNARL volunteer. Horrified, Hogan-Howe said that he knew nothing about it and, according to Jenkins, shot an admonishing look at Tarrant. “Of course we need to take this seriously,” Hogan-Howe said, adding that someone who harmed animals might very well move on to humans.

He was referring to a corner of what criminologists call the MacDonald triad. In a 1963 article entitled “The Threat to Kill,” New Zealand–born psychiatrist John Marshall MacDonald suggested that extreme animal cruelty is one of three adolescent behaviors that increase the risk of homicidal tendencies later in life. (The other two are obsessively setting fires and persistent bedwetting.) The FBI claimed to  corroborate the triad with case studies of serial killers, including Ted Bundy and Jeffrey Dahmer, who, among other malicious deeds, tortured animals as youths. Some criminologists now question the theory.

Ten days after the Q&A, a few dozen SNARL supporters and worried pet owners presented Tarrant with a petition signed by some 45,000 people. It called for a formal investigation of the cat killings. Tarrant informed the group that, as it happened, Met officers were now on the case. Operation Takahe, a name randomly generated by a computer program, had begun. Jenkins and Rising were invited to participate; the pet detectives were deputized.

dead cat illustration

II.

Animals didn’t rule his life when Tony Jenkins first met Boudicca Rising. He’d had a fairly average pet quotient—two cats—when he was married and living in Stoke Newington, on the other side of London. Then his marriage fell apart, and he spent five years living in the spare room of his own home. He would leave the window open at night and wake up with “his cat”—Mabel—on his chest, after she’d returned from her nightly adventures.

“Morose and pissed” one night on Facebook, as Jenkins later recalled, he friended Rising—under her real name, not the nom de guerre she later adopted while battling animal abusers, in order to shield her from harassment and threats. With one marriage behind her and fresh out of another relationship, Rising was sick of “creeps” hounding her on social media. Based on Jenkins’s profile picture, she wrote him off. But the pair started chatting, and it became a regular thing. They had a natural affinity—“anti-racist, anti-fascist, kind of unconventional,” as Rising put it. She found his attitude refreshing. “He never tried it on, never showed any dick pics,” she said. They refrained from meeting in person—she wasn’t sure he was her type. Jenkins had his reservations, too. “You’re not going to turn me into some crazy animal-rights person, are you?” he once asked her.

When they finally did meet, Rising consigned Jenkins to friends-with-benefits status, but by August 2012, she had to acknowledge that they were in a relationship. Finally divorced, Jenkins was looking for a house of his own. With London in its post-Olympics property boom, he realized that he would struggle to buy anything in the city’s north big enough to put up his two teenage sons when it was his turn with them. Down south, near Rising, houses were still affordable. The couple agreed that living in separate places worked best. “If we had an argument, I could just fuck off home, or she could. Job done,” Jenkins said.

So Jenkins moved to south London—“the badlands,” as he called it—on December 21, 2012, the final day of a 5,126-year cosmological cycle in the Mayan calendar. The world’s gonna end, of course it is, Jenkins remembered telling himself. And I’m moving to fucking Croydon.

Rising lived in the South Norwood neighborhood, and she was a regular in the pubs and shops of Portland Road, which is more lively and multicultural than the sedate streets of Addiscombe to the south. She had lived in the area since 1996, and one reason she had a big social network was that she’d been rehousing animals “for donkey’s years,” she said. “I never felt the need to call myself a rescue. It was just something I did.”

Rising found her way into activism in what was then a world capital of injustice: her birthplace, South Africa. Her father worked in the oil industry and tried to use his power to help others—he once shielded a white employee who was threatened with blackmail after marrying a mixed-race woman. Rising’s father also worked with rescue dogs and occasionally brought them home, including Pingo, a Keeshond mix who walked in circles. Pingo joined a couple of other dogs, plus Suzy, a cat, in the family’s brood of pets.

Rising’s mother was an organizer for the apartheid opposition, the Progressive Federal Party. She also worked with the party’s Unrest Monitoring Action Group, which compiled statistics on state-sponsored violence in townships. Rising got a job with the group at 17, helping people escape the country and sheltering victims of police brutality. “It was really dangerous,” she said. “The only reason we didn’t die is because we were white and well-known.” After Nelson Mandela was elected, Rising moved to London for six months, hoping to take a break. She never left.

And now she was dating Jenkins, who one night walked tipsily to her house after a night at the pub with a friend. A kitten had followed him.

“What’s that?” Rising asked when she opened the door.

“It’s a cat.”

“I bloody well know it’s a cat. But what’s it doing here?”

It was an odd question coming from a woman who had nine of them. Despite their efforts to keep the kitten in the garden, it slipped past them into the house, hissed at the felines in residence, and made itself at home on Rising’s bed. Discussing the interloper the next morning, the couple noticed that it had no collar and hadn’t been microchipped. Rising speculated that it had escaped from a nearby cat breeder who refused to have her animals chipped—“in which case, fuck her.” If no one claimed the kitten, they decided that Jenkins would.

Jenkins named her Daisy. He felt guilty about leaving her alone in his house while he was working, so she was soon joined by Ozzy, a black rescue cat from east London. “I called him that because I liked rock music. The Prince of Darkness!” Jenkins said.

Rising was well on her way to making Jenkins a “crazy animal-rights person.” The next step was transforming him into a saboteur. Animal rights activists meet regularly in the winter months to disrupt countryside fox hunts, which still occur in the UK, despite having been banned in 2005. Some “hunt sabs,” as they’re called, sport a tattoo of a running fox. One of Rising’s friends asked if Jenkins would like to come along on a sabotage mission. After that, Jenkins spent many weekends in a Land Rover ferrying protesters around. They used horns and citronella spray to distract packs of hunting dogs. On occasion things became confrontational with the landed-gentry types who ran the hunts.

The adventures were a break from the growing cat menagerie in Jenkins’s house. He and Rising took in strays and rehoused many more. “We got to the point where we’d run out of friends and family to foist cats onto,” he said. The mission creep toward Dr. Dolittle territory was documented on ASBOCats, a combination blog and exercise in avant-garde anthropomorphism written by Rising in the voice of her pets. “I kept on pesticatting and pesticatting and by mistayke jumped on Daddi’s fayse and made him yell and sware,” one post reads. “Almost as much as Mommi, who ebentually tucked me under the cubbers and sed go to sleep.”

In the autumn of 2014, Jenkins and Rising put an official name on their shared, consuming passion. The acronym SNARL was Jenkins’s idea—“I thought it was catchy”—but Rising suggested the L stand for “liberty,” not “liberation,” as Jenkins originally suggested. The latter was too militant sounding, she thought. The couple couldn’t have guessed that, a year into SNARL’s existence, they’d be distributing leaflets about cat murders, or that just a few months later, they’d be working with the police on the first UK investigation in which the authorities clearly stated that they were pursuing a serial killer who targeted pets.

“You’re not going to turn me into some crazy animal-rights person, are you?” Jenkins once asked Rising.

Detective Sergeant Andy Collin stood in front of a BBC camera crew and stated categorically that a human killer was responsible for the animal deaths reported up to that point. It was 2016, and the toll now included other fauna—foxes and rabbits, for instance. “Whoever’s doing this is good, seemingly, at what they do,” Collin said. “There is planning and thought involved.” 

Working out of Croydon Police Station, Collin had been appointed by the Met to lead Operation Takahe. His team would eventually include four detective constables and ten officers. In his early forties, with a small, gnomish face and a bluff air, Collin was a local boy who had worked street-gang and organized-crime cases. That didn’t stop him from taking this oddball assignment seriously. Rising told me that she was sold on Collin from the beginning. “Andy was really special in that he really cared,” she said. “Cops who really care have this kind of lazy charm about them. They don’t take themselves seriously, but they take cases seriously. It’s a hard thing to describe, but when you see it in a copper, you know they’re actually half-decent.”

Collin set about ordering the investigation—pinpointing which reports of dead animals strongly suggested human involvement and then trying to discover which human. Rising admitted that, as the death toll rose beyond 50 animals in the early months of 2016, it was hard to find a consistent modus operandi: “Some were heads cut off. Some were tails. Some were heads and tails. Some were a back leg and a tail.” With such a variety of injuries, SNARL and the police weren’t sure if they were dealing with one killer or a group. “We were really working blind,” Rising said.

The investigation’s first port of call was a forensics lab. Twenty-two animal cadavers, including four of the ten already autopsied by Braid-Lewis, were delivered to the Royal Veterinary College for examination. The Met shared the expenses with the RSPCA, which had come around and now wanted to resolve the mystery of the dead pets once and for all.

A young veterinary pathologist named Alex Stoll was assigned to look at the cadavers. A high-achieving postgraduate, Stoll had performed his first piano concert at age six, held a pilot’s license, claimed to be learning nearly a dozen languages, and had appeared as an extra in several Harry Potter films. Still he found time to probe around inside dead animals. A paper Stoll coauthored for The Journal of Animal Welfare Law argued in favor of systematic use of forensic expertise in the investigation of crimes involving animals, for which there was little protocol. 

Stoll’s verdict on the 22 dead pets was that they’d all succumbed to blunt-force trauma, and that the decapitations and other mutilations had been performed with a sharp knife or, in some cases, a hinged instrument like garden shears. He admitted that he was uncertain about the kind of blunt force that took the creatures’ lives—it could have been, say, a collision with a car. Stoll didn’t test for human DNA, because he believed the corpses had been handled by too many people for that evidence to be useful. He swapped notes with Braid-Lewis, whose conclusions he broadly corroborated. Stoll even went a step further. “I’d be fairly confident in saying it’s the same person performing these mutilations across these animals,” he later told the BBC.

So police, pathologist, and SNARL were united in their opinion about the killings. With the investigation gaining steam, Takahe meetings were convivial and productive. Collin, Jenkins, Rising, and RSPCA chief inspector Mike Butcher met monthly to review recent incidents. Jenkins was amused to suddenly find himself a collaborator with the authorities. “First time I’ve been in a police station without handcuffs,” he joked. His hyperactive rescue dog, Toffee, mauled rugs during meetings and once snuck off to have a stealth poo during a lecture SNARL’s founders were asked to give at the Royal Veterinary College. Meanwhile, a network of volunteers and animal rescue groups were on high alert for reports of pet deaths, and PETA offered a reward of £5,000 (nearly $7,000) for information leading to a conviction. 

SNARL was soon swamped with reports about new killings, including ones outside London. The police logged them all, but officers could only be present on the ground according to their priorities on a given day—crimes involving humans took precedence. For their part, SNARL’s founders attempted to visit every reported crime scene. Jenkins and Rising often spent three or four hours comforting traumatized families and doing forensic work. (Jenkins admitted most of his knowledge came from watching episodes of CSI.) They only had the capacity for about two calls per day.

A surge of attacks around Addiscombe Railway Park in autumn 2016—after the area had gone quiet for most of the previous year—suggested that the killer might have a thing for anniversaries. Other times the perpetrator appeared to go on what SNARL called an anger spree, hitting two or three animals in a single day. The fear that the killer might escalate to targeting people lent the hunt an undeniable urgency. “If this fellow started going out and doing the same thing to humans, I’d get kicked from here to Chelsea,” Collin told the BBC. “It’ll be: ‘Why didn’t you deal with it while it was at a low level?’”

By Christmas 2016, a year after Operation Takahe began, SNARL and the police had a general grasp of how and where this predator killed. But they were nowhere near having a description of their nemesis, let alone a name. So Rising and Jenkins coined their own. Bedwetter and Turdburger were two early attempts before they nailed the moniker, which Rising shared in a Facebook post over the holidays: “Christmas brings those losses into sharp relief and tonight we can’t help but think of all of the people and animals we have met over the past 15 months who are still processing and coming to terms with the loss of their companion animals due to Pooboy.”

Jenkins admitted most of his forensics knowledge came from watching episodes of CSI.

The SNARL founders weren’t the only ones with a nickname for the killer. “Jack the Rippurr” was dreamed up by Britain’s leading tabloid, The Sun. By early 2017, the idea of a prolific pet murderer was piquing media interest worldwide. Most British newspapers and the BBC followed the case, and it was eventually covered in The New York TimesVanity FairBuzzFeed News, and several French outlets. Vice would release To Catch a Killer, a noirish half-hour documentary, in 2018.

The case also attracted celebrity attention. Martin Clunes, an actor who went to school in Croydon and who is best known for starring in the 1990s sitcom Men Behaving Badly, wrote to the Met early in the investigation. He begged the police to catch the “sick individual” who was responsible and end a spree that was the “stuff of nightmares.” The lead guitarist of boy band the Vamps offered free tickets to anyone who helped catch the killer. Even loudmouthed Top Gear host Jeremy Clarkson—a man not exactly noted for his sensitivity—lent support in the pages of The Sun, albeit begrudgingly. “I’m not a cat fan by any means—they give me asthma—and I can’t think of anything worse than spending time in the company of an animal-rights person called Boudicca Rising,” he said. “The case makes my blood boil because I am a dog fan. And if someone poisoned mine, I’d capture him and force him to live for a year with Boudicca Rising.”

There were those who accused SNARL’s founders of trying to get famous or rich. But Jenkins and Rising didn’t ask for a fee when they were called to handle dead pets. The only payment Jenkins received for his media appearances was a per diem when he went on This Morning, a daytime TV program. His severance had run out, and he was financially dependent on Rising and public donations to the SNARL website. Money was tight. “The public don’t cover stuff like clothes. Which is why he looks like shit!” Rising once joked. “We get stuff from charity shops. Neither of us is particularly materialistic.” 

Jenkins worried that, too often, the media furor minimized the impact of the killings on pet owners. “I had one police officer who went, ‘Waste of my time—it’s only a cat.’ I said, ‘Excuse me? It’s only a cat?’” Jenkins told me. “Imagine you get married, and your wife gets a cat. You then have a child, and your child at the age of six has grown up with it, adores it, sleeps with it. And one morning your wife gets up, opens the curtains, and there’s your cat with no head, and no fucking tail, and your daughter’s about to go out and play. And you tell me it’s just a fucking cat.”

The investigation created a community of grieving pet owners and sympathetic animal lovers. On June 3, 2017, around 25 of them walked under the steeply gabled roof of the Croydon Quaker Meeting House, across the street from the police station. They were greeted by a table with a picture of a tabby and a white cat emblazoned with the words “My Little Angel,” flanked with two trays of glimmering tea lights. A service card explained the reason for the occasion: celebrating the lives of Pooboy’s many victims.

A harpist played, and the group sang the hymn “All Things Bright and Beautiful.” Because the killer had hit what seemed like every cultural demographic, Rising didn’t want to alienate anyone in the audience. She opted to speak on a universal theme, telling the crowd, “Love will solve this.” Then she opened the floor to anyone who wished to talk about their pet. “Some owners want to shut the door and move on,” Rising told me. “But I have owners who still do memorial posts to their cats on the Facebook pages years later. The mourning process is different for everybody.”


By August 2017, SNARL had identified around 350 cases it thought could be attributed to Pooboy. To narrow down the scope of inquiry, Rising put her business-consultant cap on. She compiled a list of a dozen criteria, eventually expanded to 26, to determine which cases Operation Takahe should investigate. Incidents featuring blatant mutilations—missing heads, tails, or limbs, or body parts deposited at the scene—were given three points. Most other criteria—little visible blood, signs of the animal having been asphyxiated, the corpse being displayed near the pet owner’s home or in a public place—got one point. Negatively weighted factors were signs of contact with other animals, including bite marks or scratches (minus five) and scuff marks on claws (minus two; cats hit by cars tend to extend their claws in panic). SNARL attended any incident that scored five or more. Cases that seemed suspicious to Stoll or another vet were ultimately counted as the work of the serial killer.

SNARL presumed that Pooboy displayed the corpses and body parts out of enjoyment for the emotional distress it caused pet owners. The scenes sometimes seemed staged with a morbid playfulness—head, body, and tail lined up in a bloody ellipsis, for instance, or in the shape of a triangle. One local man emerged into his garden one day to find his cat set upright, apparently half-buried in a hole. When he picked it up, however, the animal had no bottom half. Sometimes remains were discovered weeks after a pet disappeared from home with few signs of decomposition, suggesting the animal had been kept in cold storage.

Forensics, though, offered few leads as to who the perpetrator might be. There was little to no blood at any of the crime scenes, a fact crucial to the hypothesis that a human and not another animal was inflicting mutilations after death. But nor were there fingerprints or DNA. A suspect had never been captured on CCTV, despite most of the killings taking place in one of the most surveilled cities in the world. The perpetrator’s skill at avoiding cameras was enough to make members of Operation Takahe’s task force wonder if their man was an installer of CCTV, burglar alarms, or some other security technology.

Outside London, there seemed to be runs of cases along travel routes, not quiet suburban areas like those the killer favored in the capital. For example, on a single night, killings occurred in Bedfordshire, Liverpool, and Sheffield—all locations to the north of London and within a few hours’ drive of one another. Curiously, no killings were reported in London that evening. It was as if Pooboy had gone on a little journey. SNARL speculated that the killer could be a delivery driver of some kind. Jenkins and Rising circulated maps showing the far-flung incidents on Facebook, in the hope that a visitor might identify somebody who had recently taken a trip along the routes. Nothing came of it.

As it searched in vain for answers, SNARL saw patterns where arguably there were none. A significant proportion of the owners whose pets were killed were blond women or police officers. Many of the dead cats had been autism companion animals. Several incidents coincided with classic-car exhibitions held nearby. There were a large number of killings that occurred in places with cat in the name, such as Catford and Caterham.

A town of 20,000 on a railway terminus, Caterham is a mix of black-beamed Tudor Revival architecture and modern buildings. Huff and puff some 20 minutes up a steep slope, and you’ll find Caterham on the Hill, a serene collection of low-rise residential houses wedged between patches of greenbelt and protected by a 25 kph (15 mph) speed limit. Not quite London, not quite countryside, this is liminal land. Cats scrabble over thin-paneled garden fences that back onto long alleys. When Rising showed me the incident map for the area, it was peppered with stars.

SNARL believed that because the streetlights went out at 1 a.m., Pooboy was given the cover needed to operate without detection. The Caterham police gave Jenkins and Rising the go-ahead to organize a night watch, roping in residents to keep an eye out for strange goings-on after dark. (When it first began investigating Pooboy, SNARL had similarly monitored the streets in Addiscombe, hoping to catch the killer in the act.) Close to 10 p.m. on August 22, 2017, a patroller was walking up the area’s main northbound road. He noticed a man leaning over a wall into a garden, making smoochy, here-kitty-kitty noises. A cat bell tingled nearby. When the stranger realized he was being watched, he hurried off, a dull light casting long shadows as he went—a headlamp, perhaps? The patroller immediately phoned Rising, who told him to follow the suspect, but the stranger vanished.

The following morning, a van driver made a grisly discovery on Addison Road, a few hundred yards to the west of where the shadowy figure had been spotted: a cat’s headless, tailless, eviscerated body. Its intestines had been draped over the shingle of a front garden. Nibbles had belonged to a woman named Debbie Dyer Spencer-Hughes. She came to a familiar conclusion: “There’s no way a fox could’ve inflicted those injuries.” (Another of Spencer-Hughes’s cats was killed the following April.)

Caterham went on high alert. In the early hours of August 24, one of Spencer-Hughes’s neighbors spotted someone with a headlamp peering into gardens on Addison Road. “He wasn’t casing properties. It looked like he was searching for something,” the woman later told Rising. When confronted, the man ran off. The woman cried out for help, and the neighborhood erupted into what Rising described as “pitchfork time.” Wielding a garden rake, the woman pursued the man up the street, where he managed to give her the slip somewhere near a connecting alley—but not before being seen by several other people.

Two days later, 11 miles to the northeast in Orpington, a resident saw a man on her street trying to lure her cat with biscuits. When she confronted him, he said he had mistaken her pet for his own, which had gone missing.

“What does it look like?”

“It’s a silver tabby,” the man replied.

“Well, my cat doesn’t really look like that. What else does yours look like?”

“It’s a silver tabby with white paws.”

“Which house do you live in?”

Number 32, he said. But the woman knew the people who lived there—he was lying. After the man went on his way, she rang SNARL. The man’s description of the silver tabby with white paws matched one that had been killed just a few hours before, less than half a mile away.

The man broadly matched the one seen by 15 or so witnesses during the pitchfork chase. SNARL, along with local police, released the case’s first suspect description: “If you see a man in his 40s, white, with short brown hair, between 5’8” and 5’11”, average build, possibly with some acne scarring to his face, dressed in dark clothing, with or without a torch, trying to coax cats with a toy or feed them or looking or entering gardens, please dial 999 quoting Operation Takahe.”

At last, a picture of the killer seemed to be coalescing in the suburban gloom.

III.

Tony Jenkins stood in a tight alley skirting a redbrick Baptist church, looking down in consternation at a dead fox. Buses gusted past within earshot on the A216, a single-lane highway. There was a gamy tang in the air. Dressed in a Black Sabbath T-shirt, Jenkins hunched to examine the animal. The fox had been completely bisected across the torso, like a magician’s trick gone wrong. The head and front legs were nowhere to be seen. A small brown organ peeked out from the edge of the cut. It didn’t seem possible that another animal could inflict such exacting damage, much less one of the same species.

Jenkins took a few photographs. There were no maggots yet. The corpse was fresh. Judging by its size, it wasn’t quite fully grown. Jenkins thought the fox was an early-born cub. “Poor thing,” he said.

It was June 2018, and the Croydon Cat Killer had long since outgrown that nickname, both geographically and zoologically. Besides Pooboy, another moniker making the rounds—the M25 Cat Killer, a reference to London’s ring road—didn’t fit, either. Jenkins mentioned to me a killing that had happened two days earlier in Southampton, more than 80 miles south of London—one of the many deaths that had been documented outside the capital. Only one descriptor fit the scale of what SNARL had seen thus far: the UK Animal Killer.

Jenkins continued to search the alley, but nothing stood out apart from a few tufts of fur. If the animal had been hit by a car, there were no signs of it dragging itself behind the church. There was, as ever, no blood at the scene. Jenkins was about to pocket a five-pence piece he found near the corpse when I suggested it could have a fingerprint on it. “It’s very unlikely,” he said. Eager to help, I also excitedly pointed out some dollops of excrement on the pavement around a drab community garden behind the church. “It’s not human shit though, is it?” Jenkins retorted. “I don’t think he takes a dump after he’s killed.”

The church had a security camera. Perhaps the killer had messed up this time and passed in front of it. Then again, the camera could be a dummy. Jenkins noted the church’s phone number.

He knocked on the front door of a neighboring house. Harriet Jarvis-Campbell, a slender twentysomething in a tracksuit, answered. She was the one who’d messaged SNARL first thing in the morning after spying the fox from her bedroom window. Now she and her mother, Catherine, leaning in the doorway, said that they were worried about the safety of their two dogs and cats. “Has he ever been known to come back?” Harriet asked, referring to the killer. Jenkins paused before answering. “I’ll have to tell you the truth,” he said. “We’ve got six or seven cases where he’s come back and killed a second cat.”

Harriet swallowed hard. Jenkins told the women to keep their pets indoors for the time being. He wasn’t sure the police would come, but the women should stow the fox in a cardboard box, he said, just in case. Jenkins offered his goodbyes and strolled back to his battered Ford Focus, scoping all the while for anyone loitering in the vicinity, part of his crime-scene routine. There was only the ceaseless passage of London traffic.

Only one descriptor fit the scale of what SNARL had seen thus far: the UK Animal Killer.

Months had passed since the suspect’s description was released to the public. There had been more killings but no viable leads—not until June 16, 2018, two days after Jenkins responded to the report about the dead fox. Around 5 a.m., the first rays of sun were catching the River Nene, thick with pondweed, in Northampton, 60 miles north of London. In a meadow overlooking the river, a young man was stretched out on the grass. He was watching a white tugboat-style barge that had been converted into a vegan restaurant called the Ark Café. Two of its windows were smashed; the wall and ceiling adjacent to one of the openings were blackened with thick soot.

The man, Brendan Gaughan, rolled over to find someone standing over him—a police officer. “The defendant wasn’t asleep, and the officer formed the view that he was hiding,” a subsequent court transcript reads. “Fire engines attending The Ark were still present and visible from the defendant’s location. The officer formed the view that the defendant was likely positioned there so he could watch the consequences of the fire. The defendant couldn’t explain his presence. He said he was relaxing as he had nowhere to live, and he was arrested on suspicion of arson.”

Under questioning, Gaughan confessed not only to setting seven fires in the area the previous night—including three at the Ark Café—but also to killing and dismembering seven cats in Northampton in recent months. His involvement was beyond doubt: Most of those animals, or what was left of them, had been returned to their home addresses in plastic bags. Fingerprints were found on one bag that matched Gaughan’s. His DNA was identified on another.

SNARL had looked into several of the incidents alongside the Northamptonshire police, and it had logged other killings in the city—a total of 13. Was Gaughan responsible for them all? Even more tantalizing was the notion that his hunting ground was wider than Northampton.

It soon became clear, however, that Gaughan almost certainly wasn’t Pooboy. His tidy plastic-bag presentation hadn’t been seen in any of the London cases, and Operation Takahe logged incidents in the capital on at least three of the seven days Gaughan had confessed to killing cats in Northampton. The 32-year-old seemed to operate only locally—indeed, apart from two killings on the other side of town, he committed all his butchery on or adjacent to his own street. Moreover, unlike Pooboy, Gaughan was careless. The night of his June arrest on the green, he was captured on CCTV. Earlier in the year, Northamptonshire police had arrested and questioned him when a witness followed him home after Gaughan committed arson. (It isn’t clear why he was subsequently released; the police wouldn’t comment on the case.)

Still, SNARL wondered, could Gaughan have been an apprentice of their serial killer? “We have speculated about the possibility of a joint venture,” Jenkins told me. “Unfortunately, we can’t interrogate him ourselves, but I’d certainly be interested.”

After Gaughan’s arrest, according to SNARL’s founders, Operation Takahe stalled. The Met announced that Collin would be taken off the operation, and he stopped taking calls from Rising and Jenkins. SNARL said it was never given an explanation—the group was only told that new officers were being assigned to the case. Rising dismissively called Collin’s replacements “career cops,” with no real interest in getting into the field. In retrospect, it seems likely that Collin’s transfer signaled the Met’s growing disillusionment with the operation.

SNARL had grown to 11 members by then, volunteers who gave their time to distribute leaflets, take calls, and attend crime scenes and stakeouts. Beyond that there were thousands of people who followed SNARL on Facebook—a horde of pet owners, vets, animal lovers, and internet sleuths who frequently supplied tips. But there were many critics, too, and they had mounting questions, namely about the total tally of probable killings. The figure was now approaching 500. Could that possibly be accurate? What were the odds that a person could get away with that many killings, especially with all the press the case had received? 

Mike Butcher was a member of Operation Takahe and the RSPCA’s longest-serving frontline officer—he had nearly 50 years’ experience when he retired in 2020. Butcher believed there was enough evidence from the original south London incidents to suggest a single person at work. “And then it got a bit out of hand,” he said. “It became a media-hype thing. Every single cat that turned up dead was a potential victim.”

The plug was officially pulled in September 2018. The Met released a press statement with the headline, “Scavenging by wildlife established as likely cause of reported cat mutilations.” The police claimed that “hundreds of reported cat mutilations in Croydon and elsewhere were not carried out by a human and are likely to be the result of predation or scavenging by wildlife of cats killed in vehicle collisions.” In short: A fox did it. The Met had spent 2,250 police hours and the resource equivalent of some $180,000—roughly as much as it had sunk into investigating a recent series of armed robberies—to announce that the culprit was orange, whiskered, and crafty.

Rising was sure she knew what happened. Like all British public services, the Met had been whittled down by Prime Minister David Cameron’s austerity-obsessed government—its budget had been reduced by 20 percent since 2010. “When they realized it cost hundreds of thousands, they killed it,” Rising said, “and they killed it by trying to discredit us.”

The Met’s press release didn’t explicitly say that SNARL was wrong, but it did aim a broadside at the thesis of a human serial killer. The police’s verdict rested on four categories of evidence. First were six cat cadavers reexamined by Alex Stoll in August 2018, at which time he found puncture wounds he had previously missed and concluded that some of the animals might have been scavenged. Second was five cases—three cats and two rabbits—in which postmortems had recently been conducted by the head of forensic pathology at the Royal Veterinary College. She too found scavenging or predation-related mutilations and fox DNA on the wound sites. Third was three pieces of security footage that showed foxes carrying cat corpses or body parts onto two private properties and a school playground in Catford. Lastly, the Met’s press release cited “expert opinion,” namely a recent article in the New Scientist by world-leading fox behaviorist Stephen Harris. In the piece, Harris made reference to foxes’ “carnassials”—shearing molars they use to cut up prey—which leave clean-edged wounds that could be mistaken for knife work.

SNARL claimed that there were holes in the police’s reasoning, chiefly that the cases cited represented too small a sample size. Jenkins and Rising insisted the incidents had been cherry-picked to support the fox hypothesis and close the investigation. They pointed out that the presence of fox DNA did not preclude the possibility that a pet was killed by a human and scavenged later. The same went for the security footage of foxes moving body parts—SNARL argued that it was circumstantial, and that it didn’t eliminate the prospect of a human killer.

What’s more, Jenkins and Rising had reason to believe that Stoll’s U-turn wasn’t as clear-cut as the press release made it sound. This was thanks to Butcher, who despite his doubts about the death tally felt that SNARL was getting a raw deal. Stoll wouldn’t comment for this story, but Butcher said he was present at a meeting in which the veterinary pathologist avoided making a full retraction of his initial findings: “I was there, he said it: ‘In my view, those early cats were killed by a knife.’” Harris, the fox behaviorist, also declined to comment, but according to SNARL his research couldn’t account for suspicious circumstances in many of the incidents reported to Operation Takahe, such as the seemingly deliberate arrangement of dead animals’ body parts.

Then there was the matter of what Jenkins described to me as “signature injuries.” SNARL had never described them publicly. Wary of copycats who might further complicate the investigation, Jenkins and Rising were prepared to reveal details about only one of the injuries for this story: Many cats were found with their intestines pulled out through their anus, a circle of fur shaved off around the orifice, and the entrails displayed near the corpses. Jenkins estimated that around 5 percent of cases featured this mutilation. He was sure it was important. “The vets who’ve seen it have said, ‘Blimey, that’s actually quite surgically skilled,’” he said. “‘I can’t see a fox doing that, or any other animal.’” 

Adele Brand, another fox behaviorist who has supported Harris’s conclusions in the New Scientist, said she wasn’t convinced. Corvids, such as crows and magpies, might scavenge through the anus as a means of accessing and consuming soft tissues. “Bear in mind that in nature, they have larger animals to open up the carcass for them,” Brand said. “But if the body was intact, I can imagine a corvid displaying that kind of behavior.”

Jenkins and Rising insisted the incidents had been cherry-picked to support the fox hypothesis and close the investigation.

If SNARL had indeed overcondensed a bloody morass of incidents from three years into the work of a single killer, perhaps it was because Rising and Jenkins were fully alert to the scale of abuse inflicted upon animals. In the United States, the Humane Society estimates that a million animals are abused or killed every year as bystanders to human-on-human domestic violence. (In fact, police reports about such incidents are the primary verifiable source of animal abuse statistics.) The RSPCA received 1.2 million calls about animal cruelty in 2019. Experts believe far more abuse goes unreported.

Rising and Jenkins are plugged into networks that know animal abuse isn’t just a series of one-off acts. Consider the “animal crush” video trend, in which small animals are tortured on camera for sexual gratification. Luka Magnotta, of Don’t F**ck with Cats infamy, was one high-profile example of someone interested in such videos. Or take the so-called “horse ripping” mutilations—slashings of a horse’s neck and flanks—seen in England in the 1980s, Germany in the 1990s, and as recently as 2020 in France. Most of those crimes were never solved, but possible motives pondered in the press ranged from jealous farmers to satanic cultists to collective hysteria. And while SNARL searched in vain for Pooboy, there were many concurrent cases in the UK of individuals known to have killed multiple animals; Gaughan was one, and there were others in Brighton and Norwich. Similar sprees have been reported in France, Canada, and Washington State.

Cats seem to be especially prone to abuse. A 2005 paper by Randall Lockwood, senior vice president of the ASPCA, noted that because of felines’ association with female sexuality, they attract a certain kind of aggressor. “It is not surprising that both historically and epidemiologically, the principal abusers of cats have been young males, particularly those seeking to assert their authority,” the paper reads.

The kind of person who would torture or kill cats lurks at our cultural periphery too. Recovering addict Randy Lenz in David Foster Wallace’s Infinite Jest offers a close psychological examination of a perpetrator. Lenz seeks “closure” for his emotional torment by bludgeoning cats on his nightly constitutionals in the neighborhood surrounding his halfway house. “He becomes a connoisseur of cats,” the book reads, “the same way a deep-sea sportsman knows the fish species that fight most fiercely and excitingly for their marine lives.” More cryptic is Johnnie Walker in Haruki Murakami’s 2002 novel Kafka on the Shore. A cipher who dresses in the silk top hat and red tails of the iconic whisky brand logo, Walker says he is harvesting cats’ souls to create a mystic flute that will allow him to do the same to men. He seems to stand for the principle of savagery and naked power waging war for the fate of the world.

Pay close enough attention, as SNARL did, and animal abuse seems omnipresent. Perhaps Jenkins and Rising walked away angry from too many tearful families, took their awareness of animal suffering, and conjured up their own Johnnie Walker.

Or perhaps he was real.

On top of the grotesque, seemingly deliberate injuries and the reported glimpses of a suspect in Caterham and Orpington, two cases stood out to the SNARL team as reason enough to keep the investigation running after the Met called it off. Both happened in December 2017. Jenkins and Rising claimed that, following the discovery of a cat corpse at Lucas Vale Primary School, Andy Collin told them that security footage showed a human arm placing the animal’s decapitated head in the frame. (The Met disputed this, saying it didn’t even collect footage that covered the school grounds.) 

The other killing was of a rabbit named Clive, found decapitated and dismembered in his owner’s garden on England’s southern coast. Clive’s liver was found by the garden shed. Police asked the owner to keep it underneath a flower pot until SNARL arrived. The next morning, the organ was gone. In its place was the rabbit’s collar.


Without support from the police, SNARL decided it was time to shake up the investigation. “Is the logging of bodies and evidence actually helping catch him? Probably not. We need a different approach,” Rising said. The group brought on a geographic profiler from University College London’s Jill Dando Institute of Security and Crime Science, who attempted to map the deaths and draw up a profile of where thee killer might live or work. He was hindered by the massive quantity of data and SNARL’s diffuse criteria for counting cases. Early mapping efforts led to the theory that the killer was from South Norwood, Bromley Common, or Catford—which amounted to half of southeast London.

SNARL also connected with Super Recognisers International, which employed people with heightened powers of recognition in order to identify potential suspects who made fleeting appearances on blurred security footage. The company was founded by Mike Neville, a former Met detective chief inspector who had established a world-class image-recognition unit for the police. After leaving the Met under a cloud following anti-LGBTQ and anti-immigrant comments he made on Facebook, Neville offered his company’s services to SNARL for free. The few images Super Recognisers managed to find, however, were too grainy to determine whether any of the figures in them matched the description of the suspect.

Jenkins and Rising were effectively back at square one. Rising wanted to begin nightly patrols to catch the killer in the act, but Jenkins thought that would be like looking for a needle in a haystack. He was also exhausted from constantly attending crime scenes, work he’d come to feel was being palmed off on him by the rest of SNARL. He felt sidelined. “My opinion didn’t seem to count anymore,” Jenkins said. “I was just the bodies guy.”

A struggle for control erupted within SNARL. On WhatsApp channels, Jenkins sometimes got abusive, using what the rest of the group said was misogynistic language. Matters came to a head on New Year’s Eve 2018. Jenkins and Rising attended a crime scene that morning in West Wickham. It was, according to Rising, “a nasty one. The cat was carved up, there was not much left of it.” Once it was handled, Jenkins hoped for a break from the horror—he wanted to see 2019 in properly. “Get some wine in, have a snuggle and, you know, shag maybe,” he said. In any case, he wanted an early night so he could get up at 4 a.m. to go hunt-sabbing with friends.

Jenkins expected Rising at his place around eight or nine. She arrived at 11:50. After a glass of wine and a kiss at midnight, she said she was leaving. The cat owner in West Wickham was distressed; a second feline of hers was now missing. Rising was convinced that Pooboy would return to the house with the cat’s remains, and when he did, she wanted to be there.

An argument ensued. Jenkins insisted that it wasn’t safe to go on a stakeout alone. If she needed help, Rising said, she would knock on the owner’s door or smash Pooboy over the head with her thermos of hot chocolate. She made her way back to West Wickham and stood in a freezing alley for several hours. No one showed. The cat turned up, dehydrated but unharmed, two days later.

For Jenkins, Rising’s obsession had gone too far. When she didn’t apologize, he’d had enough. “At some point, solving the case became more important than having a long-term boyfriend,” he said. By February, the founders of SNARL had decided to go their separate ways, with more than a little regret. “I said, ‘We’ve let him win,’” Jenkins recalled, referring to the killer. “Because if he knew he’d split us up, it’s like a victory for him.”

If she needed help, Rising said, she would knock on the owner’s door or smash Pooboy over the head with her thermos of hot chocolate.

Four months later, in June 2019, Rising walked into a South Norwood shop one Sunday morning to buy cigarettes. SNARL was hanging by a thread, and she was feeling run down. She’d suffered from fibromyalgia since 2000, which made her prone to bouts of severe fatigue. Now she was oddly thirsty, as she had often been lately. She grabbed a Coke along with the cigarettes. 

The shop assistant held out her change, but for some reason Rising’s hand wouldn’t grasp it. She tried with her other hand, but it didn’t play ball either. “I thought, that’s a bit bloody odd,” she recalled.

The assistant asked, “Are you tired?”

“I think so.”

She looked down. The contents of her handbag were dumped on the counter. I must have done that, she thought. The assistant replaced everything. A queue of people was building up.

“I’m worried about you,” the assistant said. “Where are you going now?”

To a friend’s, Rising assured him. Over the road, that friend, Marion didn’t answer the door immediately, so Rising sparked up a cigarette on the stoop. “I didn’t feel ill, I didn’t feel uncomfortable, I just felt something was not quite right with me,” she recalled. She banged on the door again, and Marion’s husband answered. She walked straight into the living room, “and in my hand was a lit cigarette.” She hadn’t smoked in her friend’s house for 15 years, because Marion was a cancer survivor. “There’s no way I’d smoke in her house,” Rising said. “It’s at that point I knew there was definitely something wrong.”

Her friends noted that her speech was impaired and called an ambulance. The paramedics gave her a rudimentary stroke test, to determine whether she smiled symmetrically and could lift both arms. Her natural tenacity wouldn’t let her fail—and she didn’t. The responders suspected she might be having a panic attack; considering the stress of the investigation, Rising thought they could be right.

More tests were run at the hospital, but they were inconclusive. Eventually, the doctor asked Rising which hand he was holding up. “That one,” was all she could tell him. She was given aspirin and sent home, and an MRI was scheduled for the following week.

The scan showed that a blood clot had hit her brain stem and split, causing a series of strokes affecting both sides of her brain. That made what happened more difficult to detect—Rising’s condition lacked the lopsided effect many strokes cause. Marion told her, “Only you could have a stroke and nobody realizes.”

Rising wasn’t invulnerable. The fact that this had happened to her at 48 proved it. And the Pooboy investigation was at least partly to blame. “I’m aware now that life is short. If I went back in time and someone were to say, ‘You can take this case on, but it’ll cost you all these things,’ I probably would not have done it,” Rising said. “In fact, I know I wouldn’t. Nobody in their right mind would.”

IV.

“What gets to me is the innocence,” lamented Rob. He was talking about dead pets. As someone who led a rescue team into the carnage of Russell Square station after London’s terrorist bombings in July 2005, Rob is unfazed by human bodies. But as part of the breakaway group Rising had founded—the South London Animal Investigative Network, or SLAIN—he’d only been able to attend three calls to assess dead cats before he had to forgo any more of them. “It does make me feel like a bit of a wimp,” Rob said in a Cockney rasp. “You shouldn’t!” cooed his SLAIN colleagues.

Rob, Rising, and three other volunteers were sitting around a table in Rob’s back garden on a surprisingly chilly summer afternoon. An orange tabby with a stubby tail weaved among the group’s legs. Abbie, a 30-year-old legal administrator, did research online of possible Pooboy suspects. Sarah was a 60-year-old retired librarian who indexed data on the cases. Amy, a 44-year-old childcare worker, was a designated driver on night patrols. All of the members declined to give me their surnames—they were worried about online trolls, and about Pooboy identifying who was after him.

Despite the stroke, Rising had splintered from SNARL to form SLAIN in July 2019, with Rob as a key collaborator. A 56-year-old former security consultant and SNARL volunteer, he had become more proactive after the Met withdrew from Operation Takahe. Rob’s growing involvement had unsettled Jenkins, so Rob and Rising started their own thing.

Rising, sitting in a low garden chair, seemed more redoubtable than ever. She wore purple lipstick, which riffed on a purple lace-fringed dress, a neat blue blazer, and four-inch transparent heels. Aside from a slight nose twitch and the odd moment of hesitation before responding to a question, there was no indication that she’d suffered a major neurological episode.

For SLAIN, patrolling the streets was central to the strategy for catching Pooboy. Rising became dead-set on this method through sheer pique at missing an attack at the end of September 2019. After half a cat was found on a council estate in the area, she chose to spend the evening visiting Marion in the hospital, and the killer struck again that same night. “I was so fucking cross. I should’ve been up there,” Rising said. The fact that it would have meant patrolling a notoriously rough area alone after midnight was irrelevant, just as it had been the night her relationship with Jenkins fell apart. “I just want him caught,” she said. “If I get stabbed in the arm, I don’t care.”

One could say there was a certain territoriality behind SLAIN’s patrol schedule, which focused on areas where the group’s members lived: Penge, Orpington, Caterham, Beckenham. All of those locales had high concentrations of animal deaths. SLAIN was on Facebook and Twitter, but it didn’t post as frequently as SNARL had when Rising was still part of the group. The whole point was to operate almost clandestinely, to catch Pooboy off guard. Recently, Rising had become concerned that there was a mole somewhere in her network. “We’ve had some weird things happen,” she said, “where we’d say within the team that we’re in one place and he’d always strike in another.”

It was Rob who set the patrolling protocol for SLAIN. People went out in pairs, one driving and the other observing. He taught the group surveillance techniques: watching for movements in one’s peripheral vision, for instance, and “the three-corner trick”—if you think a car is following you, take three turns in the same direction, since people don’t usually drive in circles. Most important was the golden rule: Patrollers were never to leave their vehicle in pursuit of a suspect.

The whole point was to operate almost clandestinely, to catch Pooboy off guard.

“I’m thirsty as all fuck.” Two nights later, outside a Tesco supermarket on Portland Road in South Norwood, Rising was furiously decanting ice into a Coke-filled water bottle. Following her stroke, she suffered from chronic thirst. We were leaning against Amy’s lime-green Peugeot, waiting to head into a humid south London night. Rising, hair damp, in a ruched purple shirt and diamond-patterned skirt, had swapped heels for trainers—“in case I have to do anything semi-illegal.”

A few minutes later, back in the car, we were crawling slowly along a row of gently staggered, whitewashed houses on a residential street in Addiscombe. SLAIN wasn’t merely looking for suspicious behavior—it was actively staking out known suspects. By July 2020, the group’s list was a dozen names long. (By the time this story was published, it had increased to 14.) The names were compiled from tips about animal abusers, gleaned through Rising’s animal rights network and on social media, then cross-referenced with internet research about the individuals’ whereabouts at certain times and whether the police had properly investigated them. Did they have criminal records? Did their names come up in any of the 16,000 emails Rising had exchanged with the Operation Takahe team?

The Addiscombe street was home to one of SLAIN’s suspects. With a recent suspended sentence for possessing both child and animal pornography, and with records showing that he owned houses in two areas that SLAIN believed Pooboy favored, the man had been designated a top priority by Rising. It felt like she was trawling murky waters, however—the man’s name was given to her by another suspect on the list, and there wasn’t a shred of evidence linking him to any of the killings.

No lights were on at the man’s home. Rising craned her neck, looking up and down the street for a white van, which the suspect owned. By chronicling his movements and comparing them with the dates and times when animal killings occurred, SLAIN was hoping to firmly rule the man in or out as an investigative target. It had already done this with a few individuals; the group was steadily moving through its list. Rising said she was mindful of privacy issues when discussing suspects with the team. She never shared photographs with anyone, just names and general descriptions.

There was no sign of the van, and Rising wasn’t sure if the suspect had another vehicle. If she had been, she explained, “it’d already have a tracker on it.”

“Isn’t that illegal?” I asked.

“Yes.” 

We cruised to an auto repair shop nearby, apparently owned by the suspect’s brother. A walled compound, there was a light on in an outbuilding. Rising squirmed with impatience. “What we need is someone to break in—he’s hiding the bodies somewhere,” she said. That someone would be breaking the golden rule, I pointed out. Rising said theory is one thing, practice another—neither she nor Rob actually observed the rule. If they did get out of their vehicles, they livestreamed the sortie on a private SLAIN Facebook group. This was partly for their own safety and partly for legal reasons, should they end up in a confrontation. Rising had brought along a Kevlar vest, just in case.

It’s probably too much to say that a drift into vigilantism was inevitable for Rising, but staring out passively into London’s sodium gloom was never her style, either—she’s the kind of person who gets out of the car. And she wanted results. “I don’t want to still be working on this case in six months’, a year’s time,” she said. “I just want it to end. It’s wrecked all of our lives, and I just want it to fucking end.”

That night wouldn’t be the end, though. We eventually abandoned our surveillance and returned to normal patrolling—that is, driving around, looking for suspicious activity. Before we headed off into the direction of some estates, we made a stop at a grocer’s to pick up Turkish delight. Candy is a patrolling essential. If I hadn’t known it was a pet-protection outfit, I might have mistaken SLAIN for a confectionery addicts’ support group—one full of enablers. Amy opted for raspberry and pomegranate. “By the time this case ends, we’re going to have diabetes,” she said.


If anyone ever stole Tony Jenkins’s car, he’d have been able to trace it by smell alone. Its interior was an olfactory wormhole: clammy imitation leather and roll-up cigarettes, the ammoniac snap of urine, and an almost disturbing vulpine musk. The back seat of the silver Ford Focus—a former police car—held a cage for captured animals and a pole used to catch them. In the trunk were two 48-bag boxes of Sainsbury’s cat food, 12 cans of dog food, a sack of animal litter, and, in gleaming white-and-silver gift bags, the cremated remains of two cats. Jenkins was due to deliver these to their owners. He had been delayed by the pandemic.

Because I had begged for fresh air in the car, Jenkins was now leaning against the hood, a SNARL lanyard round his neck as he rolled a cigarette. It was a resplendent July afternoon, and he was responding to a call in Penge. In the back garden of a house, he had just wrapped a headless gray and white feline in a bath towel. She’d been found underneath a paper plant. Because she was microchipped, Jenkins had located the owner with the help of a contact with access to pet databases. They lived just a couple of doors down the road. Jenkins was about to do the dreaded door knock.

The number of deaths he believed were linked to Pooboy stood at more than 700. Jenkins’s hope was that the pandemic would reduce the killer’s movements to the point where he could zero in on the man’s whereabouts. But so far, there had been no eureka moment.

Where Rising was showing an unsettling determination, Jenkins had begun to sound desperate. He talked about the Operation Takahe shutdown being a cover-up of some kind. He wondered about how to get a message to Prime Minister Boris Johnson—he believed the former London mayor’s cat, supposedly mauled by a fox in 2013, might actually have been an early Pooboy victim. Jenkins was also considering releasing the full list of signature injuries, or even the security footage that Super Recognisers pored over, in a bid to open up new lines of inquiry.

Jenkins believed that a May 2020 case in a South Norwood cul-de-sac—involving both a decapitation and the signature anal evisceration—was a sign intended specifically for him, as it coincided with the second anniversary of the premiere of the short Vice documentary about the case. That sounded like confirmation bias, I suggested, but Jenkins doubled down with another example: A December 2016 case in Walthamstow, north London, the very first in the area, came just days after he had visited his two sons there. “The first possibility is that he followed me,” Jenkins said. “The second is that he could be tracing my phone, which is quite easy.”

Jenkins and Rising had initially agreed to share information about SNARL’s and SLAIN’s activities, but the arrangement quickly disintegrated. Jenkins complained that Rising was secretive. Now he was reciprocating, refusing to update Rising about the latest developments on SNARL’s end. Jenkins admitted that he was depressed and not sleeping well, dealing with the “psychological damage” of the investigation. More pressingly, he was nearly bankrupt. He could no longer make his mortgage payments, and reasoned the only reason his house hadn’t been repossessed was the pandemic. His mother and brother were supporting him financially, but it couldn’t last. (He eventually put out a call for support on SNARL’s Facebook page.)

I asked what his sons thought of the situation. “Kind of a mixture of they think it’s cool—it’s fun having their dad on telly and on Vice documentaries,” Jenkins said. “But at the same time, they’re like, ‘How long is it going to go on? You need to get a job, Dad.’” He had applied for one, driving an ambulance for a fox-rescue service. In the event that he landed it, he said that the “SNARL army” would step in to take over some of his work on the Pooboy case. “After five years of collecting bodies and gathering evidence and looking at patterns, none of us, including Boudicca, have…” His voice trailed off. “There are no patterns—it’s all completely random.”

Jenkins and Rising used to say that their story would make a great film. “I joked to Boudicca that I could play myself and Angelina Jolie could play her,” Jenkins said. He later downgraded that suggestion to Kathy Burke. Rising proposed Helena Bonham Carter. On a SLAIN patrol one night, she told me that she sees her part of the story, at least, as “Cagney and Lacey—the premenopausal years.”

There’s perhaps a more apt model for their saga. It’s the film Zodiac, directed by David Fincher, about the search for the infamous California serial killer that distends and finally wrecks the lives of everyone involved with the case. Physically battered, emotionally sapped by their obsession, they’re stripped to the raw sinew of who they really are.

“I don’t want to still be working on this case in six months’, a year’s time,” Rising said. “I just want it to end.”

That isn’t to say Jenkins and Rising haven’t done good with their investigation. Alastair Ulke, a journalist who covered Brendan Gaughan’s crimes for the Northampton Chronicle and Echo, said that the city’s police were suffering from general underfunding a few years ago and doubted that they were inclined to treat a series of mysterious cat killings with any great urgency. SNARL’s presence on the scene of various incidents, with the extra media attention that brought, may have persuaded the cops to take the cases more seriously and ultimately snag Gaughan. He pleaded guilty, and in December 2018, he was sentenced to 45 months for setting the fires, but no additional time for killing the cats.(Had the case gone to trial, however, Gaughan would have faced prosecution for them.)

A year later, Steven Bouquet, a 52-year-old security guard, was charged with killing nine cats and injuring seven more in a series of crimes that stretched from late 2018 to June 2019. (He pleaded not guilty.) SNARL didn’t investigate the incidents directly, because the rather frenzied attack style—some animals wandered home with their guts hanging out—didn’t fit with the clean killings it had seen elsewhere. But it may have helped the case that SNARL was involved on the periphery: It logged the incidents and stayed in regular communication with the pet owners. The Crown Prosecution Service is pursuing Bouquet not for animal cruelty but for criminal damage. The cumulative value of all the pets exceeds £32,000 (nearly $45,000), more than six times greater than the threshold at which a ten-year prison sentence can apply. “I’ve never heard of a case where they’ve attributed a cost to the life of a cat,” Jenkins said.

Rising, though, is ambivalent about their role in both cases. “Yes, it is a consolation, because we made a difference. However, there is an argument to say that both offenders might have been influenced by [the Pooboy] case and killed cats because they wanted to be noticed,” she said.

If nothing else, Jenkins and Rising are pioneers in deeming animals worthy of the sort of justice SNARL and SLAIN demand. That the Met got involved at all, if only for a while, was a victory. It was proof that crimes against animals could be addressed with a seriousness of purpose hitherto unseen in the UK, or anywhere else for that matter.

For the most devoted animal rights activists, there’s a long way to go. Laws tend to treat violence against animals, as well as animal smuggling and trafficking, as property crimes. Animals aren’t viewed as victims with defensible rights. The sticking point is that doing so would require recognizing them as sentient beings capable of perception and emotion. With sentience, of course, comes a whole host of legal and philosophical quandaries, not least whether modern society’s relationship with animals is entirely psychopathic. Still, animal sentience is slowly creeping into statutes worldwide. Article 13 of the Treaty of the Functioning of the European Union recognizes it in principle. In the United States, the recognition of animals as legal persons appears sporadically, with highly limited scope, in state legislation—though only Oregon explicitly recognizes sentience. A proposed bill in the UK Parliament would enshrine sentience in law and increase the maximum sentence for animal cruelty to five years. Meanwhile, organizations like the Nonhumanrights Project and the Animal Legal Defense Fund are working to establish the legal personhood of animals but have yet to gain a statutory foothold.

Many people have argued that these efforts are misguided because animals have no conception of morality, but even this anthropocentric monism is being chipped away. The philosopher Martha Nussbaum has argued for a different version of personhood, based on whether a sentient being has the freedom to be what it values in life. In the case of an animal, this could include the attainment of bodily health, the exercise of the senses, even the capacity to think. Meanwhile, one school of criminology offers a panacea. Non-speciesist criminologists believe that, as far as justice is concerned, there should be no distinctions between humans and animals. To borrow a dictum from the Smiths: Meat really is murder. Piers Beirne, professor emeritus of sociology and legal studies at the University of Southern Maine and a groundbreaking non-speciesist, has even proposed a new term for the killing of animals: theriocide, from the ancient Greek for “wild beast.”

Down among the hard-smoking theriocide investigators of Croydon, however, there is no naivety about whether a world where animals are treated as equals will ever exist. “We’ll never ever in a million years get that,” Rising said. “I personally view these deaths as murder. I would love to criminalize the killing of animals, but it won’t happen, because the meat industry would collapse overnight.”


The question remains: Is there a lone, implacable animal serial killer out there stalking the south of England? The early Croydon incidents remain intriguing, as does the spate of deaths around Caterham and Orpington, where a suspect was sighted. They suggest, at least, that there might be clusters of animal killings occurring, each perpetrated by an individual. And Jenkins and Rising still have supporters of their theory, including some in power. During a 2020 reading of the proposed animal cruelty bill, Parliament member Elliot Coburn asked for police to reopen the Takahe investigation, calling the Met’s fox theory “fanciful” and stating his belief that there existed a “systemic level of abuse.”

Man or fox, the resources required to answer that question once and for all will almost certainly never be available. Awkwardly, in November 2020, security footage captured what hadn’t once been glimpsed in the previous five years, and what SNARL insisted hadn’t happened: a fox decapitating a cat. “I have to admit, when I saw that footage, my first, overwhelming feeling was relief—that perhaps we did have it wrong after all and we could go back to living our lives,” Rising wrote to me in an email. But upon learning more about the cat’s injuries, and comparing them with the initial incidents in the Pooboy case, she noticed what she considered important differences. 

Jenkins, for his part, said that the footage plunged him into a miniature breakdown. Upon closer examination, however, he came to believe that the animal’s head was partially severed at the start of the footage. Pooboy, he said, may have let a fox finish the job on camera to deflect suspicion.

The hunt, then, would continue.

On a SLAIN patrol one summer night, we crisscrossed suburban estates on London’s outer edge after midnight, sluicing our way down rain-slicked arterial roads. The city, only just emerging from its first pandemic lockdown, was too quiet. Sinuous feline shadows darted from beneath cars; rust-furred canines on the tarmac feigned indifference but kept their distance. Every so often, twin pinpricks of light answered the beams of our headlamps—the eyes of a fox.

The humans on patrol claimed to be watching, but animals were, and are, the true sentinels of the city. They are the witnesses of its unconscious side—the ungovernable moods, the secret behavior, everything that happens at the margins, in the dark.


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The Secret Formula

The Secret Formula
Could shrunken heads from the Amazon hold the key to curing cancer? One man thought so—and spent a lifetime trying to prove it.

By Steven Lance

The Atavist Magazine, No. 110


Steven Lance works as a lawyer in New York. He is originally from California.

Editor: Jonah Ogles
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Nina Zweig
Illustrator: Simón Prades

Published in December 2020.

PART ONE

I

At noon on October 9, 1948, a group of political correspondents gathered at the Ecuadorean embassy in Washington, D.C. They were greeted by the ambassador, Augusto Dillon, a short man with slicked-back hair and a disarming smile. He led them into an elegant salon, where they were seated in chairs embroidered with gold thread. At the front of the room, the reporters noticed a six-foot-long wooden pole, an outfit made of shells and tree bark, clumps of leaves wrapped in cellophane, and eight round, leathery objects topped with what appeared to be human hair. Behind the reporters, a few balloons bobbed in the air, like leftovers from a birthday party.

Once everyone was settled, Ambassador Dillon—he went by Gus in diplomatic circles—said a few words. Then another man stood up. He wore a dark suit and rimless glasses. His name was Wilburn Ferguson, and he was the chief anesthesiologist of the San Juan de Dios Hospital, in Quito. Ferguson looked “young (40 or so),” one reporter judged, and “big, blondish.” Ferguson was an American who had lived in South America for most of the previous 17 years, studying indigenous medicine in hopes of finding new treatments for chronic diseases. Officially, he was in the United States to raise money for a new teaching hospital in Ecuador. But as one journalist noted, Ferguson had “more than a single mission in mind.”

After introducing himself, Ferguson picked up the wooden pole at the front of the room, raised it to his lips, and blew. A dart shot across the room, exploding a balloon. In the Amazon, Ferguson told the startled reporters, an indigenous hunter with a chonta blowgun like the one he held could drop a hummingbird from the highest branches of a tree. If the hunter was aiming for bigger prey, he dipped the dart in curare, a poison that could paralyze a large creature within minutes, causing death by asphyxiation.

Ferguson passed around a packet of leaves. These were the source of curare, he said, which in very small doses could control spasms. Then he distributed bark from the cinchona tree. This was used to make quinine, which revolutionized Western medicine after a Spanish missionary observed a healer use it to treat malaria. Another cellophane packet held coca leaves, used to make cocaine, one of the first local anesthetics. A tribe called the Jivaro, Ferguson said, understood the benefits of these substances long before Americans or Europeans had ever heard of them.

Finally, he turned to the round, leathery objects. “The doctor,” a reporter wrote, “began passing around human heads shrunken to baseball size.” They appeared “amazingly real,” a Canadian journalist reported. “[We] found it a grisly task, handling those long, black-haired and strikingly human, doll-like heads.” The reporters “gingerly handled them, squirmed, and passed them along.”

Ferguson thought the group might like to know how a head was shrunk. The skull and brain were removed straightaway, he explained; an incision was made from the crown to the nape of a severed head, and the face and scalp were then slipped off “like a sock.” The skull was discarded, while the husk was scraped clean, boiled in a liquid made from a mix of ingredients, and reshaped around hot sand and pebbles until it looked just as it had before death, only smaller.

“The head-shrinking rite is the most mystic and secret formula among all Jivaro religious and medical practices,” Ferguson said. The plants used in the process—the leaves and barks boiled in the liquid—had uncanny powers. Somehow, he said, they could shrink tissue “to any desired dimensions” and preserve it from decay.

At this point, Ferguson picked up what one reporter called “perhaps the most important of all his exhibits”: a glass vial containing about three ounces of head-shrinking fluid. “As far as I know,” Ferguson said, “I am the first and only white man ever to lay my hands on this.” It had taken him over a decade to find a healer who would give him a sample. To Ferguson it was more than a curiosity. The solution, he said, once it was refined and stabilized by modern science, might produce a treatment for cancer.

Someone in the audience interrupted. Could he explain that point, the one about cancer?

“It’s strictly speculation, but it’s an idea I’ve had for a long time,” Ferguson said, according to a story in The Washington Post two days later. “You see, pathologists say it’s impossible to shrink cartilaginous tissue, but headhunters have been doing it for centuries. This brew apparently holds the answer to such shrinking. Now, everyone knows cancer is unrestrained growth of tissue cells. If this fluid can shrink cartilage, perhaps it can also hold back cancer growth.”

At this point, the reporters must have expressed some skepticism. Ambassador Dillon stood up. “I don’t know about the rest of you,” he said, “but I feel like a drink.” Trays of champagne and caviar appeared. The shrunken heads were whisked away.

II

No one will be surprised to learn that Wilburn Ferguson never cured cancer. There have been significant advances in oncology since his press conference at the Ecuadorean embassy, from combination chemotherapy to minimally invasive surgeries to gene therapy. But shrunken heads haven’t figured into any serious efforts to treat or eliminate the disease. You won’t find Ferguson’s name on any groundbreaking medical studies.

To say that his story is one of failure, though, would be a mistake. It’s a family saga in which an unlikely theory drove a quest that spanned generations. It looped in outsiders—my own family played a minor role. For a few years in the 1960s, Ferguson and his family lived in a spare apartment behind my step-grandfather’s dental office in El Centro, California, while Ferguson looked for Hollywood millionaires to support his research. We have family photos of my stepdad, John, who was 11 years old then, wearing a feather headdress with a tail made of beetle shells which Ferguson brought back from the jungle. In his hands, he holds a pair of shrunken heads. John doesn’t look happy; in some of the images he’s practically wincing. The shells hanging down from the headdress, he explained to me, felt like they were wriggling to life every time he moved.

But John loved science as much as any kid growing up during the space race. For him, the chance to be part of “a real science project with a real scientist” was the height of happiness. He and his parents believed Ferguson’s ideas were worth pursuing. My step-grandfather, an oral surgeon, organized a committee of Ferguson supporters who gathered at the house every week, often beneath a cloud of cigarette smoke, to discuss fundraising. John borrowed his father’s camera to shoot portraits of Ferguson’s grandchildren. He made reproductions of before and after slides showing what Ferguson said was evidence that a compound he’d derived from the head-shrinking formula could reduce the size of cancerous cells. Before long, John said, Ferguson was “almost like a member of the family.” He had a friendly, straightforward way of explaining big ideas that made John think of Mr. Wizard, the popular TV scientist who taught children how to perform experiments.

Like a modern-day Don Quixote, he chased an impossible dream based more on faith than evidence.

The fundraising never materialized in any substantial way, and the Fergusons eventually left the California desert. But that wasn’t the end of the story. Ferguson kept pursuing his dream. He inspired others—friends, benefactors, unlikely strangers—to support him. More than two decades after his death, he still has followers.

The notion that he was on the brink of curing cancer is so alluring that the Ferguson faithful are willing to overlook a few things. For one, Ferguson wasn’t a doctor. What’s more, many details of his early years in the Amazon are impossible to verify; the only sources are his own writings, a recording of a lecture he gave in the late 1970s, scattered letters, his stories as other people remember them, and news articles in which he was sometimes the only person quoted. And his approach to the indigenous people his work depended on was deeply problematic. He exoticized their traditions even as he believed in the power those traditions held. He accepted the advantages that came with being white and American in parts of the world that had endured centuries of exploitation by outsiders who looked like him. At least once, by his own account, Ferguson used unproven treatments on vulnerable patients without their knowledge, a violation of basic medical ethics.

For all his faults, though, Ferguson wasn’t a snake-oil salesman or a con artist. Outlandish though some of his stories still seem, the details contained within them were consistent. The people I spoke to who knew Ferguson were struck by his sincerity. He could be stubborn and impractical, but as my stepdad recalled, Ferguson was always careful to point out that he hadn’t discovered a silver bullet, merely a promising treatment that needed more study. What he wanted most of all was a real scientific shot.

Ferguson was an outsider his whole life. Like a modern-day Don Quixote, he chased an impossible dream based more on faith than evidence. He wandered the wilderness seeking a miracle. The doctors and scientists who doubted him had every reason to. But what if they missed a bark or root of medical importance? What if Ferguson saw something they couldn’t? What if he was right?

PART TWO

I

Ferguson was born in 1905 in Shawnee, Oklahoma, but grew up farther west, in National City, California, where his parents leased a farm, raised cows, and grew fruit trees. When he was little, his mother and father often found him stuck on rooftops or buried in piles of corn; he had, as he later wrote, “an inborn urge to explore everything, everywhere.” He loved stories about adventurers and missionaries—Dr. David Livingstone, Roald Amundsen, Martin Frobisher—and felt called to follow in their footsteps.

In seventh grade, he joined the Seventh-day Adventist Church, which sent missionaries all over the world. The church was founded in 1863 in Michigan; by 1900, there were congregations as far afield as Japan. In Ferguson’s time there were already more Adventists abroad than in the United States. Adventist publications exhorted believers to carry the message of salvation across the globe. “Thousands of Indians along the banks of the Amazon and its tributaries have never heard the name of Jesus,” observed a church magazine in 1920. The same publication once asked, “Will you help answer the prayer of those faithful missionaries down there in the great Amazon? Will you help provide more workers for these benighted territories, where now thousands fall into Christless graves?”

Given his young age, Ferguson couldn’t travel abroad immediately after converting, so he got a job at a church-run hospital in California. Working nights, carrying trays through the wards for seven cents an hour, Ferguson watched patients sick with cancer and other diseases struggle and then die. “I was appalled at the almost total lack of adequate medication that we had at our disposal,” he wrote in 1973, in the self-published autobiography The Son of Fergus. The hospital was stocked with the best equipment and medicines available at the time—it was science that had fallen short. Ferguson once summoned a priest to administer last rites to several children, then an undertaker to collect their bodies. “Morphine and futile words of comfort,” he later wrote, “did not relieve the abysmal terror and unmitigated agony caused by chronic disease.”

Ferguson was impressed by how many drugs had their origins in tropical jungles—quinine, for instance. What else was out there? Perhaps every disease had a cure and the trick was merely finding it. Ferguson came up with a plan: He would befriend and live with “Primitive Medicine Men,” as he referred to them, learn about their remedies, and transform what he discovered into revolutionary medicines.

Ferguson attended Adventist colleges in California, first in Napa Valley, then in Riverside. He needed tuition money, so he convinced a friend who worked at a medical school to let him pick up overnight orderly shifts typically reserved for doctors in training. When work was slow, he asked physicians to teach him basic medical skills—how to set bones, pull teeth, diagnose anemia—that might help him win respect in communities without access to doctors. He improved his Spanish with the help of Mexican-American patients. And he corresponded with a nursing student named Ruth whom he’d met during his freshman year, when he was admitted with a fever to the hospital where she worked. (After his fever broke, he held hot water in his mouth to make it seem like he still had a temperature when Ruth came by with a thermometer—he didn’t want to leave her.) According to Ferguson, they “had a great deal in common,” and Ruth “was intensely interested” in his dream of finding medical cures in faraway jungles.

The two were married in May 1930, in a double wedding with Ferguson’s sister, in the chapel of an Adventist hospital. Ruth was 21. She had just graduated from nursing school. Wilburn, 25, was two credits short of an associate’s degree and $262.50 in debt. The couple moved to Calexico, on the border with Mexico, to teach Spanish-language Bible classes.

Ferguson’s sights were set farther south. Before the wedding, he’d applied to the Adventist General Conference for an overseas missionary posting, mentioning his future wife. (The church preferred to send married couples over single men, although wives weren’t considered employees.) Ferguson made clear where they wanted to go. “South America mission work has always been our choice,” he wrote, “and especially since we have learned to work in the Spanish language, it would be easier for us to start right in and begin working for the people than it would be if we had to learn another language.” A local Adventist elder endorsed them, writing that he believed Ferguson “would make good in a foreign field.” Another elder described Ferguson as “very good in giving treatments and helping these poor people.”

In 1931, Ferguson received a letter offering him a job as superintendent of a small Adventist mission in Sandia, Peru, “located about eight or nine thousand feet above sea level, which means you will have to have good health.” Ferguson wrote back the next day accepting the post. He added a request: He and Ruth wanted more medical training and some dentistry tools. “I had read quite a lot about Dr. Livingstone and all the other people who had accomplished things in primitive countries,” he later explained, “and most of their results came after they tended people medically.” The Adventists advanced the couple $75 and agreed to sign up Wilburn—but not Ruth—for a six-week clinical course at an Adventist hospital. (This pattern would repeat: Ruth was overlooked, though she and Wilburn did everything together.)

When Ferguson’s clinical training was complete and an Adventist doctor had pronounced his family’s health “vigorous,” he and Ruth gathered up their wedding china, cooking pots, saddles, bedding, typewriter, surgical instruments, medical supplies, rifles and shotguns, and cache of cloth diapers. By then they had a son, Eugene, whom they called Gene. They packed everything in suitcases, plywood boxes, and barrels. With the baby in tow, they made their way to the Port of Los Angeles, where a ship was waiting to take them to Peru. Soon, Ferguson was sure, he would be making discoveries that would change the world. “I guess it was a pretty wild venture,” he said decades later. “We thought it would take no more than a year or two—and, like a lot of young persons, we wanted to do big things in a hurry.”

II

On November 15, 1931, the ship dropped anchor in Mollendo, Peru. The family rode inland on a train that Ferguson described as snaking “along deep gorges and across bridges suspended a mile above raging rivers, through tunnels and along the crest of great cliffs.” They watched through the windows as haciendas set in fields of sugarcane went by. In Arequipa, “a beautiful city with cobble-stone streets at 7,550 feet above sea level,” the couple disembarked.

Before the Fergusons continued on to Sandia, the church wanted them to help expand and modernize its network of local schools. In early 1932, the couple reported to Adventist missionary offices in Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca, 12,500 feet above sea level. On market days, Ferguson found himself mesmerized by the fleet of balsa rafts that crossed the water. “It is a never-to-be-forgotten sight to see these hundreds of balsas with their sails full of wind sail out into the indescribable color of the Sunset,” he wrote. “It is difficult to decide whether the balsas fade from view over the horizon of the lake or whether oncoming night blots them from view.”

Ferguson helped build dozens of school buildings, funded partly by gold dust that he and indigenous church members panned from rivers. He traveled over llama trails on a second-hand motorcycle, a shotgun strapped to his medical bag, to assess educational needs in remote areas. He offered medical assistance to locals and pulled rotting teeth at no charge. “I never thought that there were so many bad teeth in all the whole world before,” he wrote.

By the time the Fergusons were dispatched to Sandia, about 170 miles north of Puno, in the foothills at the edge of the Amazon, rumors were circulating among Adventists that the couple had more in mind than saving souls. Ruth had told friends that she and Wilburn would stay in missionary work only until they had enough money to fund his special plans. A fellow missionary observed that “Brother Ferguson” didn’t seem “very spiritually minded.”

According to archival documents, church leaders reprimanded Ferguson. “We have not sent our missionaries to these fields just to work for gold,” one official wrote. Ferguson was indignant. “If the mission doesn’t want me here any longer, be frank about it,” he wrote. “But whatever you do, don’t allow the work to be torn down just to make me fizzle and then kick me out in disgrace.” Shocked by Ferguson’s tone, the president of the church’s South American division wondered if altitude was the problem. Perhaps, the president wrote, Ferguson “might have a change of heart and spirit and throw himself into the work and forget his little troubles” if transferred to a post closer to sea level. Others were less optimistic. “Brother Ferguson came to us with a good recommendation,” one missionary lamented, “but I feel sure that a mistake was made in selecting him.”

In early 1934, Ferguson staked a claim on an abandoned gold mine and started spending much of his time there. As his priorities crystallized, the church’s patience ran thin. “I feel that Brother Ferguson has for many months violated the very basic principles of a missionary’s life,” a church official commented in a letter. A Peruvian mission worker reported that Ferguson worked on the Sabbath, forced him to labor in the mine, and kicked him when he protested. “His work as a missionary has been a failure,” the church’s superintendent in Peru concluded. To make matters worse, he seemed to be hiding something. “Brother Ferguson,” the superintendent wrote, “has always, for many months at least, had secrets that he has not been free to reveal to anyone but his own confidential friends.”

The minutes for the 570th Meeting of the Seventh-day Adventist General Conference Committee, held on July 16, 1934, contain the following entry: “Ferguson, W.H., released from mission employ.” Church policy was to provide passage home for failed missionaries and their families. But instead of steamship tickets, Ferguson persuaded a church official to give him, as another Adventist remarked in disbelief, “a lump sum of $500 to cover the transportation of the family home and to leave him a little money in hand.” Instead of returning to America, the Fergusons pocketed the money and stayed in Peru.

III

For Ferguson, missionary work had served its purpose—it had brought him to South America, where he believed his destiny lay. He became even more certain when an indigenous man offered to sell him a shrunken head. “It was ugly, primitive, and spine-chilling,” Ferguson later told a reporter. He bought it anyway.

The head had blond hair and a beard, indicating that it once belonged to a man of European descent. Ferguson wrote that he felt “a profound interest” in the head and the change it had undergone. Despite its “unbelievably small size,” the face “maintained the exact proportion that previously existed between the ears, eyelids, nose, and the skin so that all facial and character lines remained exactly as they were previous to death.”

Ferguson wanted to meet the people responsible for the head, and he believed he knew who they were: a tribe called the Shuar, referred to by Westerners as the Jivaro. Among outsiders the Shuar inspired fascination and fear. Citing their “inclination to make cruel and ferocious war on their fellow creatures,” a 19th-century explorer called them “the most cruel infidels in this part of America.” Anthropologist Rafael Karsten, writing in 1923, said the Shuar were “the most warlike of all Indian tribes in South America.” A Shuar warrior’s “reputation increases,” the chief of the Smithsonian’s Bureau of American Ethnology noted, “in proportion to the number of heads he has succeeded in securing during his career.”

These descriptions were dehumanizing, to put it lightly. The Shuar did fight, but out of necessity. According to Steven Rubenstein, a modern anthropologist, “every documented instance of Shuar violence is a response to state aggression.” For centuries they resisted invasions, preserving their independence against overwhelming odds. By Ferguson’s time, as one ethnologist observed, Shuar communities had overcome “the conquering might of the Inca, the greed of the gold-hungry conquistador, and the passionate zeal of the missionary.”

Shrunken heads helped. Soldiers who fought the Shuar, according to stories Ferguson heard, might wake up one morning to find a stack of them in their camp, shriveled but still recognizable as those of fallen comrades. It was powerful propaganda, a warning to steer clear. Head shrinking was “the most effective national defense ever devised,” Ferguson wrote.

He suspected that it might be much more than that. One afternoon, while he and Ruth were inspecting the tiny features of the head he’d purchased, they made a connection. “The thought occurred to me,” Ferguson recalled, “that perhaps the active ingredients of this process could be in some way adapted to shrink, or at least check, the wild growth of cancer cells.”

By that time, as Siddhartha Mukherjee explains in his 2010 book The Emperor of All Maladies: A Biography of Cancer, scourges like smallpox and tuberculosis were yielding to medical advances. “But of all diseases,” Mukherjee writes, “cancer had refused to fall into step in this march of progress.” Cancer is out-of-control division and growth of abnormal cells that can destroy healthy tissue and spread through the body. As Americans escaped other ailments and lived longer, more of them developed the disease. By 1926, it had become the nation’s second leading cause of death.

Long stigmatized and little understood, cancer now drew widespread attention. One senator proposed a $5 million reward for “information leading to the arrest of human cancer.” Americans dreamed of finding what Fortune called a “new principle of treatment.” The Fergusons were caught up in the zeitgeist. The thought inspired by the shriveled head was simple enough: If cancer killed by growing, shrinking was a way to fight it. For the Fergusons to test their theory, they needed access to whatever the Shuar were using on their enemies’ heads.

That was easier said than done. The Shuar were hard to find; Ferguson had read that their territory was mostly in the highland jungles of eastern Ecuador and northern Peru, though their canoes were sometimes spotted on rivers southeast of there. Moreover, he and Ruth were busy. Ruth now had two children to care for; Ralph was born in 1935, after the couple’s second son, Donald, died of whooping cough. She also volunteered as a nurse, delivering babies and injecting Novocain when Wilburn pulled teeth. Still, the more Ferguson thought about the “wild idea” that the shrunken head could be vital to cancer research, “the more obsessed” he became.

IV

The expedition started out simply enough: In 1936, Ferguson left home with a 12-year-old boy named Antonio who would help him cook and carry provisions. Antonio had worked for the family for “nearly two years,” Ferguson wrote, “and was treated as our son.” They caught a ride to a larger town, where they boarded a train to Marcapata, just east of Cusco and Peru’s most famous archaeological site, Machu Picchu. Ferguson hoped he’d be able to make contact with the Shuar in the surrounding jungle. He bought supplies and hired several indigenous men to accompany him and Antonio into the forest. One of the men claimed to speak the Shuar’s language.

The group walked for several days before they came to a cable bridge strung between two cliffs, manned by a guard who collected taxes and took down the names of everyone who crossed. This was the divide between 20th-century Peru and the Amazon. The men paid the fee and walked across. After a few days’ travel along a river, they met a group of gold miners who said they’d seen “strange Indians” going downstream in a pair of canoes the day before.

Ferguson’s group made camp, and while most of the men set to work building a canoe, cutting down a tree and hollowing out the trunk with adzes, Ferguson went scouting. He brought the man who said he spoke Shuar. Antonio “begged very hard to go with me,” Ferguson wrote afterward, “but I felt that if an encounter with the Jivaros became possible I should be alone with the interpreter. I didn’t want him hurt in case trouble developed.”

For two days, Ferguson and the interpreter hacked their way through dense jungle with machetes but encountered no one. On the third day, they came upon another group of miners who said they’d seen canoes on the river, but they didn’t know where the people in them had come from or where they’d gone. Ferguson and the interpreter returned to camp, only to find it empty. “There was not a soul,” Ferguson wrote. Nothing was missing or out of place—“the dishes [were] clean, pots and pans were where they should be; ready for the next meal.” The men’s ponchos had been neatly folded. Their food was tied up out of reach of wild animals. The newly completed canoe sat moored to a tree.

The thought inspired by the shriveled head was simple enough: If cancer killed by growing, shrinking was a way to fight it.

Ferguson wondered if the group had hiked somewhere. Perhaps they’d become bored while waiting and decided to go fishing. Hours passed. Ferguson began to worry about young Antonio. Night fell with no sign of the group. Another day passed, then another night. “Clearly,” Ferguson wrote, “something was very wrong.”

He and the interpreter made their way to a trading post a few miles away. No one had seen the missing men. They returned to the cable bridge and asked the guard if anyone had crossed back over. No one had. “There were tremendous cliffs here and it was extremely difficult, if not impossible to go around this check point,” Ferguson wrote. “My men clearly had not been there.”

“Dead or alive,” he concluded, “they were still in the jungle somewhere.”

Ferguson went to the regional capital and told the chief of police what had happened. The chief already knew—he’d received a telegram from mounted officers in the jungle. Officially, Ferguson learned, “the Government was making out the report that my men had become impatient at my absence and had tried to swim the river where all of them had drowned.” But that may have been a cover story. “Unofficially,” the police chief told Ferguson, “the evidence indicated that they were ambushed by the Jivaros.”

Decades later, Ferguson recalled the chief’s blunt assessment: “The Jivaros killed all your men, cut their heads off, and dumped their bodies in the river.” Ferguson was told to flee. Several men and a child—Antonio—had died; their relatives would blame him.

Ferguson took a train to the coast to meet Ruth and their sons. They boarded a ship that carried them to Panama, and then another headed to California. Some years later, when Ferguson told a Peruvian general about his attempt to track down the Shuar, the man was horrified. “You’d better thank God you never found them,” he said. But Ferguson wasn’t done looking.

PART THREE

I

While Ruth and the boys stayed in Los Angeles, Wilburn returned to Peru, where he scoured museums, libraries, and pre-Inca graves in search of lost medical secrets. In 1939, he caught a “a little wood-burning steamer” that went down the Amazon, traversing Brazil. The trip took almost two months. Ferguson discussed history and religion with an old Jesuit priest on the boat, bought dried fish in river towns, and photographed men standing up in canoes to shoot long arrows. When the steamer reached the Atlantic coast, Ferguson convinced the captain of a Norwegian freighter heading to America to take him on as a crew member. He was back in California in time to hear the news about Pearl Harbor.

As World War II raged, the Fergusons ran a pair of small nursing homes, first in Glendale, California, and then in Idaho. (Ferguson had become a registered nurse after his first excursion to South America.) In 1943, Ruth gave birth to a daughter, Eileen Patricia, whom they called by her middle name. According to his autobiography, Ferguson commuted by overnight bus to Chicago to study anesthesiology with Dr. Ben Morgan, a pioneer in the field, but he never completed a degree.

By early 1945, Ferguson was desperate to get back to the jungle. He went to Washington, D.C., to obtain travel documents. While there he somehow met Ecuador’s ambassador to the United States. His name was Galo Plaza, and he was practically Ecuadoran royalty. Plaza’s mother, Avelina Lasso de la Vega y Ascazúbi, belonged to one of her country’s oldest landowning families. His father, General Leónidas Plaza Gutiérrez, had twice been the country’s president. Plaza was born between those stints, while his parents were living in Greenwich Village and his father was a diplomat to the United States.

Plaza was not yet 40 when Ferguson met him. He was rich and handsome, a cattle rancher who’d played football as an undergraduate at Berkeley and later studied at Georgetown. He’d already been the mayor of Quito and Ecuador’s minister of national defense. The two men hit it off, and Plaza offered him a job in Ecuador’s new public hospital system. In July 1945, Ferguson went to Quito. He planned to get settled and then send for his family. At the time, Ecuador was one of the western hemisphere’s poorest countries, but the capital’s rich neighborhoods boasted tree-lined avenues and Spanish-style mansions. Thanks to Plaza, Ferguson was welcomed by Quito’s elite.

After Ruth and the kids arrived, the Fergusons moved into a house across the street from Plaza’s family. Ruth began working as the head nurse for the public hospital system. Meanwhile, despite the fact that he wasn’t a doctor, Wilburn treated patients in Quito and flew to Guayaquil and Cuenca to see others.

Plaza soon ran for president. While conservatives and socialists attacked one another, he positioned himself as an independent and won. The New York Times, reminding readers of his Manhattan birthplace, called Plaza “a local boy who made good.” Once in office, Plaza named Ferguson “senior consulting anesthetist” to the public health service and the armed forces. Plaza gave Ferguson a pass to ride military planes into Shuar territory. And he persuaded the faculty at the University of Cuenca to hire Ferguson as a professor of anesthesiology, despite their misgivings when they learned that he didn’t have a medical degree. The university’s solution, according to Ferguson, was to award him an honorary doctorate.

As Ferguson once joked, “the combined salaries of all these posts would hardly be considered cigarette money in the States.” But in Ecuador it was more than enough. On weekends, Ferguson began taking camping trips with a doctor’s bag, setting up his tent in areas where he believed the Shuar lived. “When the people became curious,” he wrote in The Son of Fergus, “I told them that I was merely resting, but if there were any sick or that needed badly decayed teeth extracted, I would be glad to help them in exchange for a little fruit or vegetables I could cook for my meals.” He set fractures, pulled teeth, and supplied patients them with modern drugs or home remedies of his own invention. “I was always careful to treat them the best I knew,” he wrote, “and then told them to go back to their medicine man for further treatment.”

On one trip, Ferguson heard that a Shuar healer wanted to see him. The man was ill. Through an interpreter, the man described his symptoms, and Ferguson diagnosed a kidney infection. He gave the man medicine and checked on him each time he returned to the jungle. Eventually, the man asked what he owed. There was only one way to compensate him, Ferguson replied: “My fee for saving your life is simply a pot of the complete plant extract” used to make shrunken heads.

The healer protested. Such secrets weren’t shared with outsiders. However, as Ferguson told a group of supporters many years later, “The medicine men, and anybody in that area, if they think somebody actually saved their life, they’re duty bound to come up with payment.”

What happened next, if true, was a scene straight from the adventure stories Ferguson read as a child: One night, there was a knock on the front door of his family’s house in Quito. According to Ferguson’s autobiography, he put on a bathrobe and went outside, thinking he might find a runner with news of an emergency at a hospital. No one was there. Ferguson was about to go back inside when he spotted something on the ground—“a typical Jivaro gallon clay pot with a leaf cover, tightly tied to the top with a jungle vine.”

He woke Ruth. Together, they opened the pot and found that it contained a dark liquid. They poured the fluid into a Pyrex jar to examine it. “There were little globules of fat and human hair,” Ferguson later recalled, “so I had the real thing, I knew that.”

II

Wilburn and Ruth had no idea what was in the head-shrinking fluid, so they decided to test it for toxicity. They injected samples into guinea pigs and soaked human tissue in the liquid. (Ferguson wrote about bringing the latter home from a Quito hospital.) Even the largest dose wasn’t fatal to the guinea pigs. The human tissue shrank but, according to Ferguson, showed no signs of damage or decay. When he looked at it through a microscope, he saw intact cell membranes and nuclei.

Next, Ferguson took some of the fluid to a hospital “to run a few private tests.” He doubted it was poisonous, but his real concern was whether it could be used to treat cancer. He mixed the fluid with lanolin and made an ointment, then chose a few patients in the cancer ward whose tumors broke their skin—in his autobiography, Ferguson wrote that the growths resembled heads of cauliflower. While changing the patients’ bandages, he rubbed the ointment on the tumors. He didn’t tell them what he was doing.

Over several days, he watched for changes. Soon, according to Ferguson, lesions “began to disintegrate,” and diseased skin seemed to “slough off of the tumor[s], leaving a clean base that appeared to be normal tissue.” Ferguson continued: “Even more interesting, spontaneous tiny islands of new tissue” developed where the malignancy had been. These would spread “until the entire area was covered with new skin.”

There is no way to corroborate any of this. It’s possible that it happened, but so is Ferguson imagining the results he wanted to see or inventing a narrative of success to advance his agenda. Whatever the case, he was convinced he was onto something. “Ruth’s and my wild hunch had now developed into a definite potential therapeutic active drug principal for the possible control of cancer,” he recalled.

As the pot left on his doorstep ran dry, Ferguson flew into the jungle as often as possible, looking for more Shuar healers. He also contacted powerful acquaintances in the capital to obtain funding for his research. In 1948, the British Council in Quito helped him organize a lecture tour at medical schools in England and Scotland. That October, with Plaza’s blessing, Ferguson traveled to the United States to campaign for donations for a new teaching hospital—and to find sponsors for his work. That’s how he wound up at the Ecuadorean embassy, popping a balloon with a blow dart and passing around human heads.

The reporters who witnessed Ferguson’s demonstration didn’t know what to make of it. “It was the weirdest press conference I’ve covered in many a day,” one wrote, “and I’ve covered some zanies.” Journalists joked about “big heads” that could use some shrinking. The best doctors in the world hadn’t cracked cancer’s code. It seemed unlikely that this dreamer would.

But one reporter, Milt Dean Hill, who was friendly with Plaza, wrote letters of introduction to prominent New Yorkers who might be able to help. According to Ferguson, he and Dillon, the Ecuadoran ambassador, met with Dwight D. Eisenhower, recently named president of Columbia University. Ferguson also tried to meet with Nelson Rockefeller, grandson of John D. Rockefeller and another friend of Plaza’s, but he was only able to talk to two employees. No money materialized from either encounter. (Rockefeller later commented that his staff’s appraisals of Ferguson were “not very enthusiastic.” One of them had concluded, “This is strictly between us, but he impressed me as being far from a balanced individual.”)

After New York, Ferguson flew to Texas, where the response was more encouraging. He presented a general hypothesis—that there were undiscovered plant remedies for various ailments waiting for the right people to come along and find them. Professors at the University of Texas at Austin found the notion intriguing. After an aide to Governor Beauford Jester suggested that Ferguson’s proposal held both scientific and commercial promise, the governor wrote an introductory letter for Ferguson indicating that he hoped the project would “bring worldwide recognition and distinction to Texas.”

Jester’s staff arranged a press conference in the state capitol on November 4, 1948. Ferguson displayed his shrunken heads, explained his cancer theory, and held up his precious vial of Shuar fluid. Theophilus S. Painter, the president of UT, and Henry Burlage, the dean of the university’s pharmacy school, told reporters that they looked forward to working with him. Another wave of stories about Ferguson rippled across the middle pages of America’s newspapers.

Buoyed by the reception, Ferguson proposed a research center at UT, to be named after Pedro de la Gasca, a 16th-century Spanish bishop who once governed Peru. The center would be a joint venture between UT’s colleges of pharmacy and medicine, with its purpose “to collect, classify, purify, test, and clinically prove the value of new drugs from natural sources.” Ferguson wanted to be the director. He asked for 10 percent of the royalties from any drugs the center developed, an $8,000 salary, a $31,000 budget for general expenses and travel, and a one-time allotment of $11,000 for camping equipment, cameras, medical supplies, a boat, and a “four-wheel drive Dodge Power Wagon equipped with refrigeration, generator, drying equipment and all other … equipment necessary to get to difficult places and collect unstable drugs … and plants with high moisture content.”

Burlage’s pharmacy school was on board with the idea, but Chauncey Leake, the executive vice president of UT’s medical school, shot it down. Ferguson had been signing letters and telegrams “Doctor Wilburn Ferguson” and “Wilburn Ferguson, M.D.,” despite having neither a medical degree nor a doctorate. On top of that, Leake said, Ferguson’s chances of finding an undiscovered miracle drug were basically zero. Pharmaceutical companies had scoured the world’s jungles. If there was a plant that cured cancer, it would have been found already. “The well-known principle of diminishing returns,” Leake said, “has been cumulatively operative in these efforts for the past century.”

Burlage and Ferguson persisted with the idea of opening the center, but other people’s enthusiasm dwindled. Whenever pharmacy professors followed up with Painter about the proposal, the university president kept repeating, “Where will we find the money?”

They never did. Governor Jester, who had encouraged Ferguson, died in office, and the pharmacy school couldn’t afford to create the foundation alone. “There is very little of an encouraging nature to report to you,” a professor wrote to Ferguson. “All I can say is that you have my best wishes and that some form of help and interest will ultimately reward your perseverance and unstinting efforts.”

Ferguson returned to Ecuador empty-handed.

III

When Ferguson heard about the deadly outbreak, he was visiting a Shuar group he knew as the Kenguimi just outside Sucúa, a small village in the jungle with a military airstrip. It was early 1949. “Word came of a wave of fever that spread like wild fire,” he wrote in his autobiography. A warning from the country’s public health service confirmed his fears: It was typhoid. “I had always had a particular phobia against typhoid fever,” Ferguson recalled. As a boy, he’d lost two cousins to the disease.

He asked Ruth to catch a plane to Sucúa to help him. They built shelters out of palm leaves for sick Kenguimi, put buckets of disinfectant outside each one, and instructed people who touched the patients to wash their hands in them. “We dug holes where everything used by the sick Jivaro was dumped,” Ferguson wrote. “Each morning kerosene was poured over everything in the holes and set on fire.” They treated the patients with Aureomycin, an antibiotic developed a few years before.

One day a Shuar man brought his sick daughter to the makeshift hospital. According to Ferguson, the man arrived carrying a spear with a tip that had been dipped in poison. “With spear point at my back,” Ferguson later said, “I administered the drug and waited. The Jivaro girl responded to the treatment, and her father responded by introducing himself as Tangamasha, chief medicine man of the Kenguimis.”

Ferguson and Tangamasha became friends. They were about the same age, they were both fathers, and they had dedicated their lives to healing the sick. Ferguson took Tangamasha’s expertise seriously, and Tangamasha returned the courtesy. They exchanged information about remedies and methods—Tangamasha showed Ferguson which plants might help his son Ralph’s asthma, while Ferguson showed Tangamasha how to use a stethoscope and make casts for broken bones.

Tangamasha was Ferguson’s best hope for finding out how to make the head-shrinking liquid. As he wrote in The Son of Fergus, his new friend “was the key to the project.” But when Ferguson made his request, Tangamasha “was quite horrified.” He explained that his tribe’s council of elders and medicine men had to approve any new apprentice of its healing methods. It was a request Tangamasha was not eager to make. What if Shuar medicine could help the wider world, Ferguson asked. Tangamasha “pleaded, cajoled, and even threatened me,” Ferguson recalled, “but in the end, agreed to ask the council for a decision.”

About two weeks later, the Kenguimi elders and medicine men informed him that his petition was conditionally approved. According to Ferguson, they’d consulted Wakani, the Shuar god of healing, and decided that Ferguson’s medical knowledge made him a worthy candidate for the healing apprenticeship. But there was another entity they hadn’t heard from yet. In Ferguson’s understanding, it was a god of evil spirits named Pangi, who lived in a volcano called Sangay. The mountain, which had been in active eruption since 1934, was sacred to the tribe. According to his autobiography, Ferguson and the Kenguimi elders and healers trekked toward the cone-shaped volcano floating high above the jungle.

At the base of the peak they built an altar and sacrificed a pig. As Ferguson watched, Tangamasha bent down to collect the pig’s blood in a clay jar. “He dipped his finger in the blood and spread it onto my shin,” Ferguson wrote. “I then dipped my finger in the blood and spread it on his shin.” The other men repeated the gesture. Then they roasted the pig and served it “with all the vegetables and fruits of their plantations, in the special feast this ceremony required.” The Shuar watched the volcano for omens. When the pig’s throat was cut, Ferguson recalled, “Sangay quit smoking for quite a little while, and then gave three great big puffs of smoke, threw out tons of molten rock and stuff, and they said, ‘Well, that’s it. That’s approved.’” (Ferguson appears to have made some errors in his account. For instance, according to anthropologist H. Clark Barrett, pangi is the Shuar word for “anaconda.” Also, the Shuar don’t worship a god called Wakani, but they do use the word wakan, which translates as “soul” or “spirit” and is associated with ayahuasca.)

Only one test remained: Ferguson had to shrink a head. Traditionally, this would require killing an enemy, but the elders agreed to let Ferguson kill a monkey instead. Tangamasha supervised the process of removing the scalp and face and boiling it in the secret solution. When the elders inspected Ferguson’s work, they approved. They gave him several batches of the precious fluid and described the steps that went into making it. “I learned that there was a variation in the number of plants used,” Ferguson later wrote, “that ranged from 26 to 34.” Tangamasha’s personal recipe called for 30.

Each ingredient had to be extracted from a different vine, flower, leaf, or bark. The ayahuasca vine, which the Shuar believed allowed them to see the future and learn hidden truths, went into the mixture. So did cinchona, the source of quinine, and rabo de mono (monkey’s tail), a vine with fibrous roots used by Shuar healers to treat dysentery. When Tangamasha explained each plant’s properties, Ferguson “was awed at the unbelievable enormity” of what was in the fluid. The recipe involved the whole Shuar medicine cabinet, “the ultra-secret pharmacopeia of … ancient medical knowledge.”

But were all the ingredients really necessary to shrink a head? Back home, with supplies he’d gathered in the jungle, Ferguson removed plants from the formula one by one, verifying with each omission that the brew could still reduce an animal’s head. “If the resulting shrinkage factor remained the same, [the ingredients] were permanently left out of the projected chemo-therapeutic compound,” he wrote. “If the shrinkage factor was lessened, that plant was restored to the formula.” Ferguson whittled the mixture down to eight plants, amassing a collection of shrunken monkey, sloth, and cow heads in the process.

Ferguson was eager to test the compound on cancer patients. Plaza’s government arranged a “preliminary clinical test” at the University of Cuenca’s hospital. Ferguson hadn’t settled on a reduced formula yet, so he figured he’d use batches of solution that the Kenguimi had given him. “I was ready,” he wrote, “to proceed with advanced research.”

PART FOUR

I

The Cuenca doctors selected seven terminal patients with tumors that they judged were inoperable. All seven were impoverished, and the six mentioned by name in Ferguson’s reports were women. The plan was to treat the tumors topically. In the first few days, Ferguson believed that he saw progress; just like in his unsanctioned experiments in Quito, the tumors seemed to shrink, and the skin around them seemed to be healing. The fluid’s “powerful killing power,” Ferguson noted, appeared “to affect only malignant growth without the least damage to normal tissue or even the new growing normal cells.”

When the mixture the Kenguimi had given him ran out, Ferguson prepared a new solution from the eight plants he believed caused tissue to shrink. But the effect wasn’t the same. His patients’ tumors seemed to grow back. Years later, Ferguson would describe this as “the most serious crisis of our entire research project.” He left the patients in Ruth’s care and took a train to Quito, where he caught an air force plane to Sucúa. He told Tangamasha what had happened and asked him to walk through the process of preparing the fluid again.

According to Ferguson, Tangamasha immediately identified the issue: The mixture the Kenguimi elders gave Ferguson had been used to shrink a number of heads. Ferguson’s mixture couldn’t compete. The missing ingredient, he reasoned, must have been some kind of “glandular, hormonal, or enzymic substances from the fresh head.” Ferguson decided that he’d have to “temper” each new batch before using it. Back in Cuenca, he bought a calf’s head from a butcher and soaked it in the fluid. Once the head shrank, he brought the solution to the hospital and resumed his experiments.

Ferguson’s writings don’t say whether he explained the treatment to the patients. If he felt ethically conflicted, he never mentioned it. He was focused on whether his project would succeed. “No one ever knew the sheer agony Ruth and I went through during the week of crisis,” he wrote. “But somehow, out of all this mess, the solution I made, tempered by shrinking a calf head, works even better.” Better, that is, than the original solution.

Only three of the seven patients stayed for the entire course of treatment; the others left for home as soon as they began to feel better. According to Ferguson, the three who stayed recovered completely. After 100 days of treatment, he wrote, Tránsito López Orellano—a middle-aged cook who entered the study with epithelioma of the cervix and uterus, or growths on the lining of those organs—had no sign of cancer. The doctors performed a hysterectomy and declared her “completely free of her former cancer symptoms.” Four weeks after her surgery, on October 31, 1949, she was discharged. Jesus Vázquez Córdova, a 70-year-old housewife who’d been admitted with a cancerous growth on her nose and cheek, also went home symptom-free, Ferguson recorded, after the doctors operated on her shrunken tumor. Josefa Carpi Cabrera’s case left the deepest impression on Ferguson: The tumor on her nose disappeared without surgery. On November 16, the hospital staff decided she could go home, too. “There was no doubt whatsoever,” Ferguson wrote, “that our own crude, eight-plant research drug compound effectively destroyed malignant tumor[s] in human patients.”

He realized, however, that the Cuenca experiments wouldn’t stand up to peer review. He wanted to run tests with more scientific legitimacy. Ferguson wrote to J.E.M. Carvell, the British ambassador to Ecuador, explaining that his “Scottish descent and a longstanding desire to take the British Medical Examinations” made him “especially interested” in working in the United Kingdom. “My most urgent need now,” Ferguson wrote, “is a connection with the best Scientists available to advise me in the Laboratory and later in a completely controlled series of clinical trials, that will leave no doubt whether or not I have something worthwhile in the treatment of Cancer.” He attached a report summarizing the Cuenca trials and enclosed before and after photographs, diagrams, and authenticated copies of his patients’ medical records.

If anyone in the UK was interested, Ferguson wrote, “I will furnish all the plant material required both for laboratory and clinical work.” He would cover the costs of collecting and shipping the plants and pay for his own travel. “However,” he added, “due to the many years of costly preliminary research which has already been done, all at my own expense, it will be necessary for as liberal a grant as possible to enable me to maintain my family with me in the United Kingdom.”

Carvell reviewed Ferguson’s report and, satisfied with what he read, forwarded it to the Foreign Office in London, which sent it to a government committee on medical research. The committee was skeptical. For one thing, it said, the treatments were too recent to be described as cures. “Moreover,” one doctor wrote, “ulcerated growths, such as Mr. Ferguson describes, are usually associated with a secondary infection.” There were probably natural antiseptics in the plants he was using, which “would be quite likely to cause even striking temporary improvement in the appearance of superficial cancers without, however, necessarily influencing in any way the ultimate course of the growth.”

In other words, the committee thought Ferguson was looking at infections caused by cancer and seeing tumors. When the infections improved, he thought he was curing the disease. “In the view of the Council and their advisers,” the British experts concluded, “no useful purpose would be served at present by Mr. Ferguson’s being brought to this country, as he proposes.”

II

It took several months for Ferguson to find a powerful new believer. In August 1950, he heard that there was interest in California, where he’d sent samples of his fluid. Paul Kotin, a pathologist at Los Angeles County General Hospital and a professor at the University of Southern California, tested the mixture on several strains of disease-causing bacteria. In laboratory conditions, Kotin wrote, the head-shrinking solution killed “pneumococcus, the organism which causes lobar pneumonia, the beta strep, the organism responsible for diseases like strep throat, childhood fever and the like, the staphylococcus, the organism which causes boils and abscesses, and certain organisms producing severe dysentery and diarrhea.” Kotin and his colleagues wanted more samples—and to meet Ferguson in person.

Ferguson asked for a fellowship. He wouldn’t need a paycheck, he said, just access to lab facilities and animals for testing. Kotin suggested that Ferguson join “the cancer research section at both the hospital and university here” for one year; he would “be provided with adequate space and such animals and equipment as might be necessary to further your investigations.” After that, Kotin wrote, the hospital’s doctors would help him apply for longer-term funding.

Ferguson and his family left Ecuador and moved to an apartment in Los Angeles, across the street from the hospital. Ruth got a nursing job to support the family. Gene went off to college. Ralph, a teenager, worked in his father’s laboratory on weekends and holidays. Patricia was young enough to need supervision, so after school she stayed in the lab with her father, often late into the night. To keep her entertained, Wilburn bought Patricia a miniature chemistry set.

The Los Angeles doctors began studying the exotic mixture they called “head-shrinking compound 101-A,” which Ferguson had transported in substantial quantities from Ecuador. The solution was distilled into 50 fractions—groups of chemicals separated from the overall extract by boiling them out bit by bit, in an effort to isolate active ingredients—and given code names like “101-A4/A” and “101-A4/C3.” But the doctors could only learn so much, because Ferguson was secretive. He wouldn’t tell them the names of the plants he used or how he’d processed them to prepare his solution.

On weekends, Ferguson raised money. Thanks to a wealthy cotton farmer who sent regular checks, he could afford to hire graduate and postgraduate students to assist him with the research. They spent long hours at the hospital, supervised by Kotin and his staff, who were impressed with many of the results. “The range of susceptible organisms to solution 101-A in the laboratory is wider than that of any other antibiotic or other form of bacteria-killing medication available today,” Kotin wrote. Ian MacDonald, a professor of surgery who reviewed Ferguson’s experiments, said that the solution showed “antibiotic activities which seem to exceed greatly those of such agents as penicillin.” Ferguson later wrote that the doctors were also “intensely interested in my empirical concept regarding the shrinkage factor of the crude plant extract as a potential tumor reducing therapeutic.”

Some fractions, Ferguson wrote, eliminated tumors in mice and left the creatures unharmed. Other fractions had the same results with leukemia, he claimed. “As in most scientific research, more questions were discovered than positive answers found,” he wrote, “but the research project was enormously advanced during the year’s work.”

The hospital applied for a grant from the National Cancer Institute to help Ferguson continue his work. As the chair of the hospital’s tumor board wrote, the doctors and USC professors had “confidence” in the research and were “inclined to believe that this project has great potential possibilities.” But the grant application was rejected. According to Ferguson, the reason offered by the NCI was that “the concept of the research did not coincide with the current scientific cancer knowledge.”

Without money to continue his work in California, Ferguson returned to Ecuador. He enlisted Tangamasha to collect more plants. In a Guayaquil hospital, he treated patients suffering from terminal cancer using IV drips, creams, and injections of the fractions he’d developed in Los Angeles. Local newspapers began trumpeting Ferguson’s research. The Associated Press picked up the story, wiring it to newsrooms across America. A cure for cancer, one article suggested, might be only “four or five years” away.

Thanks to the media coverage, the pendulum of Ferguson’s luck was about to swing yet again.

III

Drew Pearson was one of America’s most prominent journalists. The radio host and newspaper columnist was known for a trademark blend of news, gossip, and something he called “predictions of things to come”—all informed by supposedly well-placed, confidential sources. His column, the Washington Merry-Go-Round, had 50 million daily readers. His radio shows were piped into living rooms nationwide. His speaking voice was high, fast, and insistent. He could be combative, especially when he thought powerful people were acting hypocritically. Joseph McCarthy once jumped Pearson in a cloakroom after the host made a remark he didn’t like. (A young Richard Nixon had to break them up.) Pearson was also an old friend of Galo Plaza’s—the two men had bred cattle together in the 1940s.

On October 5, 1952, Pearson introduced Ferguson to his widest audience yet. It started that Sunday morning, with Pearson’s newspaper column. “For several years an American doctor has been living in Ecuador,” Pearson wrote, “experimenting with a fantastic, secret solution which may prove the answer to cancer. The doctor is Wilburn Ferguson.” He continued: “The solution he is working on is that used by the Jibaro Indians to shrink human heads. Dr. Ferguson emphasizes that he has not found a cure for cancer, that he has only found a ‘promising treatment.’ Nevertheless his clinical records have shown some miraculous recoveries.”

In his column and on his radio show that same week, Pearson cast Ferguson’s theory as the insight of a genius. He invited his audience to picture Ruth and Wilburn working by night in a foreign land, “grinding herbs and preparing their solutions for the next day’s work.” He recounted Ferguson’s time in Los Angeles and urged the public to open their pocketbooks. “Dr. Ferguson unquestionably could have made a fortune with his new cancer formula,” Pearson wrote. Instead, he was broke.

After the broadcast, people wrote letters to their local radio stations, hoping Pearson could put them in touch with Ferguson. Some sent money. Others sent advice. Mostly, though, people wanted him to treat their loved ones.

“I am willing to go to any length to get Mrs. Daugherty to him if at all possible,” one I.J. Daugherty wrote from Ohio. “She is able to travel at this time, as the cancer is in the early stage.”

“We love our Dad, Mr. Pearson,” Louis Bence wrote from Illinois, “and would try and do anything to try and get him well.”

“We want to give her every possible chance,” wrote Jack Epstein, of Pennsylvania, referring to his wife’s 31-year-old sister, “so won’t you please let us hear from you as soon as possible?”

They wanted someone to have the cure—they needed someone to have it.

Pearson’s portrayal of Ferguson—an optimist in exile, poised to return home with a miracle drug if only he had more support—resonated with a vulnerable subset of postwar Americans. Who could blame them? Medicine had never felt more modern, yet their loved ones were dying of a disease known to afflict humans since antiquity. They wanted someone to have the cure—they needed someone to have it. Letters and phone calls flooded Los Angeles County General Hospital, too. “Since the Drew Pearson talk, the situation has gotten out of hand,” a doctor there complained to a colleague, “and we are being bothered by inquiries from all over the United States.”

John and Bernice Ptak, a working-class couple from Wilmington, Delaware, went further than anyone else. Their five-year-old son, Johnny, had been sick for months. Initially, their physician diagnosed him with rheumatic fever, then polio. After an operation in Philadelphia, doctors identified Johnny’s condition as neuroblastoma—cancer of the nerves. On October 1, just before the Ptaks heard Pearson’s show, Johnny was given three weeks to live. The cancer had spread to his lymph nodes and pelvis.

In Guayaquil, on October 15, Ferguson received an urgent telegram, transmitted by radio from a Pan American flight. The message asked him to meet the plane at the airport with an ambulance. The Ptaks had emptied their savings account to bring their son to Ferguson. When the plane landed in Guayaquil, Johnny was unconscious. Ferguson and an Ecuadoran doctor checked him into the hospital and administered the head-shrinking fluid through an IV drip. On the second day, according to Ferguson, Johnny woke up briefly and recognized his father. Gradually, over several days, he seemed to improve. Ferguson and the doctors removed the IV and twice a day gave Johnny drinking water with the Shuar solution mixed in. He seemed to be responding.

Three weeks into the treatment, Ferguson wrote, “The patient was considerably improved and has a good appetite.” By November, Johnny was sitting up, talking, and playing with toys. Soon he was well enough for his parents to take him on day trips. According to Ferguson, Johnny insisted on climbing trees and playing with other children in a park across the street from the hospital. His parents were thrilled.

But something wasn’t right. Johnny’s pulse was too high, and he couldn’t sit still. His heartbeat was irregular, Ferguson observed, “and was impossible to count when he played hard.” Ferguson wondered if something in the fluid had “acted too fast for this particular patient’s cardiac condition.”

On Tuesday, December 9, 1952, Ferguson wrote a brief note: “Patient collapsed while playing.” The next day, Johnny died.

Ferguson claimed that a postmortem examination showed Johnny’s tumors had shrunk to “approximately 1/5 of their pre-treated size.” True or not, Johnny’s parents had seen his mood, appetite, and energy improve. Exactly two months after arriving in Ecuador, the Ptaks returned to Delaware with their son’s body. The press was waiting for them. “Christmas Hopes Die with Boy of 5,” one headline read. Mr. Ptak said they had no regrets about the trip to Ecuador. “We knew it was a desperate mission,” he said. “Our hopes weren’t high. We knew it was only a long shot.” Of his son, Ptak said, “He enjoyed his last days, and he passed away happily.” As for Ferguson’s compound, “If it doesn’t cure, it does relieve the pain.”

“I still have faith in Dr. Ferguson,” Ptak told a reporter. “I think we got Johnny there too late. If we had heard about him sooner, he might have saved our boy.”

IV

Ferguson was getting more attention than ever, and not just from the media. “About a month ago news of my work leaked out,” he wrote to a doctor in Los Angeles in the fall of 1952, “and the representatives of Merck, Abbott, and a couple other drug firms called on me. This was followed up by a week’s visit from the Vice President of Merck.” Merck’s associate director of therapeutic research “took 25 liters of concentrate solution back with him for an all out evaluation.”

In late November, the U.S. government sent an NCI pathologist to Ecuador to examine Ferguson’s patients and collect biopsies. According to the pathologist’s report, Ferguson showed him “rather convincing” evidence that the head-shrinking solution reduced cancerous tumors in humans. “All of his treated patients still have cancer,” the pathologist added. But the ones he saw displayed remarkable improvement.


Not so long before, the NCI had rejected Ferguson’s grant application to continue his research in Los Angeles. What had changed? Certainly the press attention might have affected perception of Ferguson’s project, but oncology was also evolving. For decades, surgery and radiation were the only forms of cancer treatment, but recently a new approach had emerged. One proponent described it as “penicillin for cancer.” Others used terms like “selective poison.” The one that stuck was chemotherapy.

By 1952, as Mukherjee recounts in The Emperor of All Maladies, experiments at Yale and Boston Children’s Hospital had established the basic idea behind chemotherapy: Find a toxic chemical that kills cancer cells faster than it does healthy cells, and if a patient can survive the dose it takes to wipe out the disease, a cure is possible—at least in theory. The truly lifesaving breakthroughs in chemotherapy were still years away. For all their promise, early trials typically bought patients only a few months before the disease came raging back. Still, evidence that chemicals could stop tumor growth and prolong life shook the medical world.

If tumors could be reduced by compounds derived from mustard gas and periwinkles—early sources for chemotherapy regimens—why not a mixture made from jungle plants? Shortly after Johnny Ptak died, Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center brought Ferguson to New York City for a meeting. The research staff arranged a deal with Merck to evaluate Ferguson’s formula together. The idea, as Ferguson described it, was that he would provide the solution, while Sloan Kettering would handle the animal testing on Merck’s behalf and, if warranted, set up clinical trials with human patients.

Ferguson recalled signing a contract with Merck on February 6, 1953. A Merck representative told me that its archivists couldn’t find any record of Ferguson—possibly because the company didn’t retain contracts, meeting minutes, or correspondence from the people and departments he interacted with. Letters in Nelson Rockefeller’s papers, however, corroborate the broad strokes of Ferguson’s deal with Merck and Sloan Kettering, to which the Rockefeller family has long had strong philanthropic ties—it even donated the land where the hospital is located.

The cancer center’s scientists began testing the head-shrinking mixture on tumors. “The first survey tests,” Ferguson wrote, “covering the entire spectrum of 20 animal tumors … showed our extract active against sixteen.” But when the team repeated the experiments, “the results were not borne out.” Perhaps, Ferguson suggested, the solution had become contaminated between tests. He telegrammed Ruth in Ecuador and asked her to send six liters of extract to New York by airmail.

But Merck wanted more than six liters. According to Ferguson, the contract called for him to produce 400 gallons of the solution. He offered to make sufficient quantities from dried plants he’d put in storage in Los Angeles, “in case of revolutions” or other catastrophes that might deny him access to the jungle. In the past he’d used only fresh ingredients, so he told Merck that he wasn’t sure the stored plant material would work. Still, the company advanced him $2,000, and Ferguson flew to California. When he returned to the East Coast with the dried plants, he prepared his formula under Merck’s supervision.

Soon after, Merck’s scientists announced that they were having trouble getting a consistent, stable assay from the new solution—that is, they couldn’t determine or analyze its chemical components. If they weren’t able to correct the issue soon, they warned, it would be hard to justify additional funding for the project. Ferguson wrote to Nelson Rockefeller asking for help, but while waiting for a response, he received word that Sloan Kettering and Merck were shuttering the project. “Feeble activity was irregularly demonstrated,” one doctor explained to the Rockefellers, “but so much less than that exerted by many other substances under study as to make further tests of the Ferguson material of low priority in our opinion.”

Ferguson blamed the dried plants. He enlisted Plaza, whose presidency had recently ended, to ask the Rockefellers for a $25,000 loan. On the advice of Sloan Kettering’s doctors, the family declined. Ferguson tried the NCI as well, according to The Son of Fergus, but the doctors there made clear that he would never get federal funding. His project, one cancer expert said, was “simply not scientific.”

Ferguson flew back to Guayaquil, only to learn that the Ecuadorean cancer society—the Sociedad de Lucha Contra el Cáncer, or SOLCA—had turned against him, too. According to Ferguson, the society’s founder held a press conference dismissing “the so-called research which Dr. Ferguson and a few of his misguided medical friends have made,” and describing Ferguson’s apparent successes with cancer patients as “a series of spontaneous regressions that would have taken place anyway with any treatment.” (SOLCA didn’t reply to a request for records of the press conference.)

Why SOLCA spoke out against Ferguson isn’t clear. Maybe, like the experts at NCI, SOLCA’s members had heard about Ferguson’s research failures and decided he was doing bad science. Perhaps the fact that Plaza, his benefactor, had left office in 1952 played a role. That mattered, certainly, as Ferguson sought to regain his footing in Ecuador; his contracts with hospitals, the military, and universities in Ecuador had dried up. A few months prior, the press had hailed him as a hero. Now, at least in medical circles, he was a pariah.

Ferguson reminded himself that the great physician Paracelsus was ridiculed in his lifetime. Louis Pasteur was attacked “until the day of his death.” If Merck and Sloan Kettering wouldn’t help him prove that the Shuar solution could save lives, he would find the evidence himself. With Ruth’s counsel, he decided that there was only one place to go. “We would move our entire family and all our scientific equipment,” Ferguson wrote, “into the Ecuadorian Eastern Amazon.”

V

The family relocated to Sucúa, near the settlement where Tangamasha lived. The town didn’t offer much more than a pair of missionary outposts—one Catholic, one evangelical—and a few muddy, unpaved roads that didn’t lead far. “The only way in or out,” recalled Patricia, the Fergusons’ daughter, “was by plane.”

The Fergusons landed on Sucúa’s grass runway on July 25, 1953. Their reputation in the area was still good from the assistance they provided during typhoid epidemic. Tangamasha’s friends and relatives “came from some forty miles in all directions to welcome us,” Ferguson wrote. With their help, the family built a huge oven from cement and brick and roasted a cow for a feast. Ferguson chose “a small hill about two hundred yards from the air strip” to construct his family’s compound. With dozens of local men and boys, he cut trees and gathered bamboo. The group staked out wooden frames for a house, a laboratory, and smaller buildings, including a clinic, a kitchen, and space for guests. They lashed together bamboo walls and thatched roofs with palm fronds. In a reflection of the family’s priorities, they poured a concrete floor for the lab, but not for the house.

Ferguson resumed treating patients during the day and staring into test tubes and microscopes at night. He worked long hours, trying to improve and standardize the formula for the head-shrinking fluid. Eventually, he eliminated another plant from the solution. He also decided that tempering the solution by shrinking an animal head wasn’t necessary after all.

Ruth helped in the lab while working as one of only two nurses in the area. When a baby was born, someone came running for Ruth. She stitched up cuts and set fractures when people fell or injured themselves. She administered injections—vaccines for children, vitamin boosts for pregnant women—and cared for those suffering from parasites or the flu. She gave out free antibiotics and other medications. “She was willing to help anybody, no matter what,” Patricia told me. Ruth often read Bible stories aloud to her patients. She once told a reporter that she wouldn’t trade her life in the jungle “for any other,” and defended Wilburn from critics who pointed out that he wasn’t really a doctor. “Who in science and medicine has made the great discoveries?” she asked. “Not the trained man, bound by rules, but the man who breaks them or has a lucky accident.”

The Ferguson children had to pull their own weight. “It was work, work, work,” Patricia recalled. She raised chickens, grew papayas, and roasted the family’s coffee. As she got older, she noticed that none of her neighbors lived in bamboo houses. They had solid roofs that kept out precipitation. The buildings on the Fergusons’ property, as one visitor observed, leaked water during the area’s frequent hard rains.

One of their neighbors was a teenager named Nicanor Sangurima—most people called him Nico. His father owned a cattle ranch. When the Fergusons came to Sucúa, Nico was about the same age as Ralph, and the two boys became friends. Patricia befriended Nico’s sisters. Nico remembers being impressed with her Spanish. Patricia spoke it perfectly, with an elegant accent.

Sometimes Nico stopped by the lab to use Ferguson’s typewriter. The glass tubes and machines fascinated him. But he was even more interested in Ferguson, who would raise his head to greet Nico and keep working. Nico had never met anyone who affected others the way Ferguson did. “People would go out of their way to accommodate him,” Nico told me. Ferguson seemed to expect it. “He never stood in line,” Nico said. “If he saw a long line, he would go to the front.”

To make money, Ferguson arranged with a travel agency to bring tourists to Sucúa. He asked Tangamasha and other Shuar to perform for visitors. “They sang their native poetic songs, danced all their exotic dances and if a tourist was a little slow or missed a shot they repeated it for them,” Ferguson later recalled. In 1956, the American ambassador to Ecuador brought Senator Bourke Hickenlooper to watch a Shuar ceremony and to tour Ferguson’s lab. Hickenlooper, a conservative Republican from Iowa, called it a “fascinating experience.”

Hickenlooper and Ferguson kept up a correspondence. With the senator’s aid, Ferguson planned another fundraising mission to the States. While he was in Washington, D.C., Hickenlooper helped him incorporate a nonprofit—the Ferguson Research Foundation. Ferguson also screened a short film he’d made about his life in the jungle. From the Beltway, he traveled across the country. He showed his movie at high schools and churches. In San Diego, he appeared on television. In New York, Nelson Rockefeller’s secretary turned him away. In Chicago, a department store magnate politely declined his request for backing.

Ferguson was a curiosity, but not an investment. By the end of the trip, he was penniless. He slept on buses and, once he’d made it back to Washington, scrounged enough cash to send a telegram to Ecuador asking for a plane ticket home.

After the trip, Ferguson worked harder than ever in his lab but also turned inward. He began to see threats around him. In his autobiography, he wrote of “many enemies” who tried to undermine his project. He feuded with a local evangelical missionary, accusing him of a “rabid campaign against my research.” By decade’s end, tourists had stopped coming, and there was no money left to continue the work.

Ferguson told his family that they were moving back to California. But Patricia, who was 16, said she wasn’t leaving. She and Nico were in love, Patricia said. It was a surprise to everyone except Patricia’s talking parrot, who always whistled when the couple were together.

Nico wrote Ferguson a letter asking permission to be Patricia’s boyfriend. Ferguson went a step further: He invited Nico to come with them to the United States. The young couple were married in June 1960, and in August, the now slightly larger Ferguson family flew to Miami.

Ferguson bought a Chevrolet station wagon, painted desert beige, and the clan set out for California, driving all day and sleeping in motels at night. Patricia’s parrot squawked in the back seat. Through the windows, she and Nico watched an unfamiliar country pass by.

PART FIVE

I

For a while, the family lived in Southern California’s Inland Empire, where Patricia and Nico spent their days grinding, boiling, and distilling jungle plants on Ferguson’s behalf at a place called the World Life Research Institute. It was the passion project of Bruce Halstead, a young doctor and ichthyologist (fish scientist) with a knack for winning government grants. The institute was on 520 acres in a canyon. It had a research library and laboratories where as many as a dozen scientists worked at a time. When Patricia and Nico’s first son was born, Halstead covered the hospital bills.

One day, Ferguson abruptly announced that they had to leave the institute—it was going under. Nico later heard that Ferguson feared Halstead wanted to cut him out of the effort to turn the head-shrinking fluid into a marketable drug. But Halstead’s son, Larry, told me that couldn’t have been true—his father always spoke highly of Ferguson. About a year after World Life collapsed, when Halstead revived it on a smaller scale on his family’s property, he hung a photo of Ferguson on the wall.

Ferguson’s dreams were further thwarted when federal law changed in 1962. For the first time, the government would require manufacturers to prove that drugs were safe and effective before marketing them to consumers. Qualified experts would have to conduct clinical studies in which subjects gave informed consent. The Food and Drug Administration would set manufacturing standards and inspect facilities. According to an FDA administrator, the agency “was no longer a helpless bystander while unproven medicines were streaming into pharmacies and onto patients’ bedside tables.”

A doctor from Palm Springs had sometimes stopped by World Life to pick up bottles of the head-shrinking fluid. As far as Nico understood, he was using it on cancer patients. “He was having success with it,” Nico said. “He kept coming, asking for more.” Now, with stricter federal laws, the doctor stopped treating patients with the solution.

After 1962, the Ferguson family wandered. Ruth and Wilburn went back to nursing. “I usually worked the twelve-hour night shift,” Ferguson wrote in his autobiography, “and spent every spare moment of my time over the research records, translating the Spanish documentation and arranging the reports for potential sponsors, should we again have that opportunity.”

While Ferguson looked for donors, the younger generation looked for work. Ralph took classes at Loma Linda to become a histology technician. Gene was hired by a police department back east. Nico sold cars, then found a job as a machinist in aircraft factories near Los Angeles. For extra money, he sold cookware door-to-door. Patricia stayed home to raise their two sons. The generations remained close, living on the same street, and sometimes in the same house—like in El Centro, where almost everyone piled into my step-grandfather’s spare apartment.

Every few years, when Ferguson thought he saw a new opportunity, the family moved. Each time, Ruth left her job to pursue their larger goal. “She traveled with him, no matter what,” Patricia told me, because she “never had any doubts.” Curing cancer was as much her dream—and was furthered as much by her labor—as it was Wilburn’s.

One day in June 1969, Ferguson approached Nico with a $2,500 check in hand. He wanted his son-in-law to use the money to fly to Ecuador and get more plants. Ferguson’s research had been dormant for years. Nico and Patricia had their family, and a daughter on the way, and they were leading the normal life that being Ferguson’s daughter and son-in-law had once denied them. Why did Ferguson want to revive his experiments now? And where, Nico asked, had the money come from?

Ferguson explained that he’d found a new group of investors who’d offered him a contract to produce a sample of the solution for lab testing. Nico read the document and found that it dictated that the head-shrinking formula be put in escrow, which meant identifying the plants and the procedure for distilling them. Ferguson didn’t have patents or other protections. The way Nico saw it, the family would be giving up its only asset.

Ferguson told Nico that if he didn’t like the contract, he should come to a meeting with the investors and propose better terms. “We need somebody that can negotiate,” Nico replied. Someone, that is, who understood business.

Nico reached out to an old friend: Ken Williams, a former paratrooper and school principal. Williams had also been Nico’s boss when he sold cookware. Now he was the dean of San Antonio Commercial College. Williams had spent time with Ferguson over the years and knew about the cancer project. He agreed to help. The negotiations with the investors eventually fell through, but Williams proposed another idea. The fifth floor of his college was empty. If they set up a lab there, Williams said, the school wouldn’t charge them rent or utilities.

The Fergusons were up and running again, this time in Texas.

II

Wilburn and Ruth quit their nursing jobs in California, and Nico, Patricia, and their two sons flew to Ecuador to visit family. While he was there, Nico gathered more plants. With donations from the college’s students and teachers, Ferguson sent away for mice and implantable cancerous tumors from a laboratory supply company. He kept the mice in coffee cans with holes drilled into them.

Williams was appointed executive director of the Ferguson Research Foundation, the nonprofit Ferguson had incorporated with Senator Hickenlooper’s help. Williams brought a steady stream of donors to visit the fifth-floor laboratory. Money came in, enough to fly Nico to Ecuador on regular foraging missions. The Fergusons replaced the coffee cans with proper cages. They bought a centrifuge, glassware, refrigerators, compressors, a freeze dryer, and other equipment.

Making the solution was time-consuming, and Nico wondered if it could be simplified—maybe by removing more ingredients. Ferguson believed that each of the formula’s components had unique qualities that, when combined, made the perfect drug: A certain tree bark prevented inflammation, another plant elevated the patient’s mood, another killed pain, and so on. Cutting out plants might prevent a necessary synthesis from taking place. “I’d rather use a shotgun than a bullet,” Ferguson reasoned. Eventually, he and Nico compromised—they would hire a chemist to analyze and isolate the active chemicals in the solution so the recipe could be standardized once and for all.

The foundation hired a young postdoc named J. Rao Nulu, recommended by Burlage, Ferguson’s old friend from the UT pharmacy school. Nulu spent weekends at the lab with Nico. The foundation then brought on a local pharmacology professor named William Stavinoha to supervise animal testing part-time, and another postdoc, Arvind Modak, to assist him. The years in the jungle, the rejections and disappointments, the desperate fundraising missions—all of it had led Ferguson here. “This was the kind of research collaboration I had dreamed of,” he wrote, “but frankly did not expect to find.”

Soon, the foundation outgrew its borrowed space at the college and moved to a location near San Antonio International Airport. Now it had to pay rent. When combined with Nulu’s salary—he’d come aboard full-time—the foundation’s bills outpaced donations. Williams proposed converting it into a for-profit corporation. Selling shares could bring in capital, he said, and would make it an easier pitch to donors, since they’d earn a profit from any drugs that proved marketable.

The years in the jungle, the rejections and disappointments, the desperate fundraising missions—all of it had led Ferguson here.

Ferguson agreed. They named it Farma Corporation. By its articles of incorporation, Farma was authorized to issue 500,000 shares of stock. Williams gave a controlling stake to the Fergusons and himself and set out to sell the rest.

One of the first people to buy stock, according to Nico, was the doctor who’d once come to the World Life Research Institute to pick up batches of the solution. His name was William P. Aikin. At the time, he was probably the only American doctor who had used the formula on patients—and he believed it worked. He joined Farma’s board of directors. “Dad said if it was good,” Aikin’s son told me, referring to Ferguson’s formula, “it was worth a fortune.”

When Modak said he wanted to end his postdoc early so he could work with the foundation full-time too, Williams suggested they find more investors and really grow the operation. To do so, they needed proof that the treatment worked. Ferguson saw no reason to wait—he wanted to use it on patients. “The people are suffering now,” he used to say. But according to Nico, an FDA inspector visited the lab and made it clear that he would shut the facility down if the team treated any patients.

“Can I take patients in Mexico?” Ferguson asked.

“What you do in Mexico is not my business,” the inspector reportedly responded.

One of Farma’s investors contacted a friend in Torreón, in the Mexican state of Coahuila, who was a doctor and a partner in a medical clinic. The doctor’s name was Mario Gutiérrez Cárdenas, and he had a nephew, Arturo Gutiérrez Santos, who had just finished medical school. The clinic’s other doctors agreed to let Arturo, Mario, and the Fergusons use the facilities, as long as they took on only terminal patients. Because these people were likely to be poor, Ferguson insisted that the treatment be free. Farma would pay for everything.

Ruth and Wilburn moved to Torreón. Nico was tasked with driving batches of the extract down from the lab in San Antonio, where he and Patricia still lived. The trip took 12 hours, with inspections at the border, traffic stops, and plenty of mordidas (bribes). Later, Nico began flying the formula down by plane once or twice each week—he’d obtained his pilot’s license back in California. He used a twin-engine Cessna that Williams bought with a three-year mortgage, putting up the lab equipment as collateral.

Nico began to have doubts about Williams. Farma still had no revenue or marketable product. All it had was capital, which Williams raised by selling stock. The corporation was burning through money, but somehow Williams kept finding enough investors to keep the lights on. (He was a gifted salesman, according to his stepdaughter, Lucy Rix. “Ken could sell snow to the Eskimos.”) Every few weeks, it seemed to Nico, Williams awarded Wilburn, Ruth, or Patricia several thousand shares in Farma, and assigned himself a few thousand as well. “We need to keep the family in control,” Williams explained when Nico asked.

By family, Nico realized, Williams meant himself, too.

III

Early in the summer of 1970, Julia Cedillo, a 68-year-old woman in Juárez, crossed the border into El Paso for an appointment with a neurologist. She had a troubling set of symptoms: dizziness, vomiting, confusion. Most frightening of all, she was losing her eyesight. Lately, her field of vision had been limited to “seeing like a kind of little window,” recalled her daughter, Carmen Darancou Muñoz. “A flat little square. This square was closing, little by little, until the point that it was almost shut.”

The neurologist took a biopsy. When the anesthesia wore off and Cedillo woke up, she was told that she had an astrocytoma of the right parietal lobe—brain cancer. It was advancing, the doctor said, but the tumor was too large to remove without causing neurological damage.

Cedillo was an aunt of Ferguson’s partners at the clinic in Torreón. They asked the woman they called Tía Julia if she’d like to try Ferguson’s remedy. Cedillo said yes, and Darancou Muñoz left her job to travel with her mother to Torreón. “When I first arrived,” Cedillo later wrote, “I was in a wheelchair and partially paralyzed on one side of my body.” She was nearly blind, and slipped in and out of a coma.

Darancou Muñoz told me that during the first week at the clinic, Ferguson gave her mother “a little bottle.” It looked like it held cough syrup. The substance gave off an herbal smell and tasted bitter. But the very first dose her mother drank, Muñoz said, “started to open up that little window in her eyes for her.” By the fourth week of treatment, according to clinic reports, Cedillo was walking to mass every morning. Soon she could read the newspaper.

As a Farma board member, William Aikin heard about Cedillo’s progress. He pleaded with Ferguson and the Mexican doctors to use the extract in conjunction with surgery; Aikin believed that it would shrink tumors but not make them disappear. Nico remembered him saying, “You have to remove the tumor and continue with extract afterwards.” They should use the extract like they would chemotherapy, Aikin said.

Nico tried to convince his father-in-law to take Aikin’s advice, but Ferguson declined. Aikin grew annoyed. “You are trying to work miracles,” he reportedly said. Not performing surgery was naive—or worse.

But to Ferguson, Cedillo’s case suggested that the formula was curative. After eight months of treatment, she had none of her former symptoms. She eventually returned home believing that Ferguson had saved her life. According to Darancou Muñoz, the El Paso neurologist was amazed when he examined Cedillo again. “If there wasn’t an operation,” Darancou Muñoz recalled him saying, “where is the tumor?”

Cedillo lived for 23 more years, dying at the age of 91. For a long time, she sent Christmas cards to Ferguson, signed in elegant, old-fashioned cursive. To her mother, Darancou Muñoz told me, “he was like an angel.”

IV

In July 1972, Nico had just returned to San Antonio with a shipment of plants from Ecuador. It had been a long flight, with a layover in Mexico, and he was tired. But no sooner did he get home than Patricia told him to get ready to leave again. Something was wrong with the corporation. The investors were meeting in Reno, Nevada, the next day, and he needed to be there.

Williams was so successful selling stock that the corporation had increased its total shares twice in three years. On both occasions, Williams issued most of the new shares to himself and the Fergusons, so they’d retain a controlling interest. But he’d failed to register over two million of those shares with the Texas State Securities Board, as required by law. Investors were worried that criminal charges could be filed against both Williams and Ferguson. A lawyer said that the best solution was to dissolve Farma and transfer its assets to a new organization. The company’s shareholders would have to consent. For good measure, the lawyer recommended incorporating the new entity in a different state. That’s why the meeting was called in Reno.

Nico, Ralph, and Gene joined the other shareholders. Wilburn and Ruth stayed in Mexico. At the meeting, lawyers proposed dissolving Farma and reincorporating in Nevada as Pharma Capital Corporation. The laboratory equipment, the airplane, and the rights to the secret formula would belong to the new entity. Everyone who had bought stock in Farma would receive an equivalent number of shares in the new company.

Everyone, that is, except the family. The Fergusons—and Williams—would get nothing. They would be removed from their positions at the firm.

According to Farma’s articles of dissolution, investors representing 1,905,779 shares voted in favor of the lawyers’ plan. No one voted against it. Aikin abstained, Nico recalled, after trying to persuade others to change their minds. But even Williams and the Ferguson family voted yes. “We all had no choice,” Nico said.

The attorneys placed an investor—an Iowa rancher with no scientific background—in charge of the new corporation’s research. In Torreón, Wilburn and Ruth, devastated, were forced to ask the patients they were treating to leave the clinic for good.

PART SIX

I

In July 2019, I found myself in Texas looking at an open fireproof box. Inside was an object the size of a grapefruit that smelled like old leather. I saw thick hair and a hole where an eye should have been—a rat had picked it away some years prior. The other eye was closed, its bushy lashes sealed by time.

It was one of Ferguson’s shrunken heads, stashed away for safekeeping by one of his remaining acolytes.

I’d come to Texas to meet Charles Mazinter, a real estate entrepreneur and former car salesman with dreams of finally proving Ferguson right. Mazinter met Ferguson around 1997. By then, Ferguson was in his nineties. His hair had grown long, Mazinter said, giving him an “Albert Einstein look.” The previous 25 years had taken a toll.

After Ferguson lost Farma in 1972, he spent much of the next year finishing his autobiography. The Son of Fergus was 423 pages long, and it combined his life story with lab results, photos of patients and their tumors, a history of the Shuar people, and copies of letters from his supporters. He mortgaged the Torreón house he shared with Ruth to print 100 copies bound in leather. He stamped the book as the property of the Fundación Incorporada de Investigaciones Ferguson de México and dedicated it “to my Sponsors Past, Present, and Future.” He mailed copies to Walter Cronkite, George H.W. Bush, and other powerful figures.

The bank eventually repossessed the Fergusons’ house, and the couple returned to California. For a few years, Wilburn again worked as a nurse. In 1977 he retired. He was past 70; Ruth was nearing it. They moved to Texas, where Patricia and Nico still lived. For the rest of his life, the old man wrote letters, still looking for support. He found an ally in a Hollywood composer named Phillip Lambro, who bought the rights to The Son of Fergus and tried to get movie studios to develop it. Meanwhile, without a laboratory, Ferguson imagined ways to improve his formula, writing up new extraction and distillation techniques on the back of stray documents.

In 1992, he was in the news again. Someone told him about Medicine Man, a movie in which Sean Connery plays an eccentric scientist searching for a cure for cancer in the Amazon. Connery and the film’s screenwriter, Tom Schulman, were both represented by Creative Artists Agency, and Phillip Lambro had sent an employee there a copy of Ferguson’s autobiography. Ferguson and Lambro believed they were being robbed. They decided to sue for copyright infringement—but it wasn’t a winning case. Lawyers representing Connery and Schulman produced documents showing that the movie was inspired by a different researcher in a different jungle: Daniel Janzen, a conservationist and evolutionary ecologist in Costa Rica. Schulman had known Janzen for years. The lawsuit went nowhere.

Mazinter entered the Fergusons’ lives a few years later. An acquaintance of his, Ann Gaspari, had married Gene, the Fergusons’ eldest child. While Mazinter was visiting their house one day, he heard a noise in another room. Ann said it was Gene’s dad, who was living with them. “So they bring out Wilburn,” Mazinter recalled, “and he sits down, and we start talking.”

Mazinter found Ferguson fascinating. He thought it was a shame that research into the head-shrinking formula had been cut short. After the visit, Mazinter started having odd experiences. Every time he turned on the radio or TV, the program seemed to be about cancer. One day at a mall in San Antonio, a woman he’d just met started crying while telling him about a relative who was dying of the disease. “I’m sitting here going, ‘Why are you telling me? What do I have to do with any of this?’” Mazinter said. “It became so ridiculous that I knew something was going on. Like it was God saying, ‘Do something with this.’”

He went back to Ann and Gene’s and told them he believed he needed to be part of Ferguson’s project. According to Mazinter, they had already decided to ask for his help. Ferguson wasn’t looking for another scientist. What the old man needed was an entrepreneur.

Ferguson, Gene, and Ann took Mazinter out for dinner at an oyster restaurant. Soon after, Ferguson gave Mazinter his files. “It was like the passing of the mantle,” Mazinter said. He took the gesture to mean that if anything was going to happen with the research, it was up to him.

Ferguson wasn’t looking for another scientist. What the old man needed was an entrepreneur.

Mazinter tried several times to revive the project, taking it to drug companies and investors. In 2001, he spoke with Corey Levenson, a pharmaceutical chemist and the senior director of ILEX Oncology, a cancer-drug developer in San Antonio. Levenson told me that he found Mazinter’s pitch compelling. “I wanted to believe this stuff was going to work,” he said. “If you look at the drugs that we use now for treating cancer, a lot of them come from plants originally. So it’s not that far-fetched.” Levenson reviewed the files Mazinter had inherited from Ferguson and was disappointed to find mostly anecdotal accounts of cures and old reports based on “antiquated rat models that weren’t really considered very predictive.” There were no randomized controlled trials, no formal toxicity tests, not even enough chemistry to know if the extract’s active ingredients had already been isolated and put to use in other medical treatments.

Still, Levenson was curious enough to ask for more information, and Mazinter produced what Levenson remembers as “a vial of brown goop.” It was the head-shrinking solution, prepared by Nico. Levenson and his colleagues ran a preliminary test on cancerous cells and found, as Levenson wrote to Mazinter at the time, “that the extract was able to kill the cells.” Promising, but not enough. According to Mazinter, Levenson proposed an arrangement: ILEX would put up the money to test the solution further. In return, ILEX would own 90 percent of any drug that came out of the research.

Mazinter turned the offer down. He believed he could do better. “Looking back at it now,” he told me, “I should have taken the deal.”

Levenson said that he didn’t remember offering Mazinter anything, though his boss at the time may have suggested a deal. “Given that there was no compelling animal data that was ‘fresh’ and the business opportunity was still pretty risky,” he wrote in an email, “I don’t imagine ILEX would’ve offered much for it.”

The preliminary test was as far as the research went. I asked Levenson if Ferguson could have been right—if the brown goop might itself be, or perhaps contain, an effective cancer treatment. “We don’t know,” he responded. “Nobody ever took it to the point where you could say yes or no.”

“It’s kind of a shame,” Levenson said, “because he might have had something.”

II

Some legends are true, and others—perhaps most—only reveal truths about the people who tell them and the cultures in which they’re told. Tom Schulman, the screenwriter, pointed out that Ferguson’s quest shares themes with many popular stories, from Lost Horizon to Juan Ponce de León and the Fountain of Youth. They’re all tales of “explorers really looking for things of value.” Cities overflowing with gold. Life-giving waters in the Florida swamps. A cure for cancer from shrunken heads. It all connects to “this mystery of what goes on deep in the jungle,” Schulman said, “and this sense that there’s knowledge and wisdom out there.”

Ferguson died in 1998, a year after Mazinter met him. Ruth had passed away four years prior. Gene and Ralph are gone now, too, along with Galo Plaza, Tangamasha, Ken Williams, and other people who supported Ferguson’s work. The widow of one of the doctors Ferguson worked with at the Torreón clinic keeps a little glass bottle of the head-shrinking extract. Her husband saved it as a souvenir. Julia Cedillo’s relatives remember the Ferguson family fondly, even if some of them questioned the business model of a corporation that treated patients for free.

The streets in Sucúa are paved now, and one of them is named after Nico’s father. The local population has grown. The hill where Ferguson’s laboratory once stood is covered with houses. “You wouldn’t even recognize it anymore,” Patricia said.

She and Nico maintain ties to family in Ecuador. Their kids have grown up, and Nico has retired. He visits Sucúa every few years; his last trip was just before the coronavirus pandemic exploded. He and Patricia say it’s harder than ever to locate the ingredients in the head-shrinking formula. Still, Nico told me, “The plants are there to be found.”

One is of particular interest to him—a flowering vine that Nico believes is the key to the fluid’s power, based on the research he did in Texas decades ago. Mazinter is convinced of it, too, but neither he nor Nico would tell me much about the plant in question. “I can’t reveal exactly what it looks like,” Mazinter said, “but I can tell you the flower on it is phenomenal.” I asked if he could at least reveal the color of the flower. That would give too much away, Mazinter replied. “I don’t know what other plants would be so distinctive with this color,” he explained. “It’s just regal. Royal. Gorgeous. Breathtaking.”

Nico referred to it as “Plant A.” At his father’s ranch in Sucúa, back when he was a boy, they considered it a weed. “It was all over,” Nico said.

Nico and Mazinter are focusing the hope that Ferguson nurtured his entire life on a weed. Mazinter imagines a future in which the old man he met at his friends’ home is hailed as a visionary. To make that happen, he needs to raise money. A lot of it. “You need a million just to start,” Mazinter said. He’ll have to gather plant specimens, if he can find them. Then he’ll have to hire a chemist who can isolate and stabilize the active ingredients. If he gets that far, he can try to patent what he finds. He’ll have to conduct research on animals, convince the FDA to approve clinical trials, and prove that whatever’s in the vine with the incredible flower is both nontoxic to humans and more effective than other drugs already on the market. Failure awaits at every turn, just as it did for Ferguson.

“If I could go back in time,” Mazinter told me, “I almost think I might push a button and say, ‘I wish I never heard about it.’ Because it has brought me nothing but hard work and grief. And it has drained my finances in a very bad way.”

Nico favors a different path. He hopes to do just enough research to demonstrate the weed’s potential and convince a university, an investor, or someone else to carry the project forward. He said he trusts Mazinter and wants to make sure they work together, but he’s seen where the dream of money can lead. “My father-in-law spent a lifetime trying to raise a million dollars,” he said.

Nico wants to start small. “If somebody says they’ll take a risk and donate $20,000, I’ll take it,” he told me. “Form a corporation, whatever. I’m 85 years old. I’m not going to see it through, but I’d like to start something.”


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Castles in the Sky

Castles in the Sky

While renovating a house in San Francisco, a couple discovered a diary, hidden away for more than a century. It held a love story—and a mystery.

The Atavist Magazine, No. 109


Christina Lalanne lives in San Francisco and works in the travel industry. She holds a master’s degree in historic preservation.

Editor: Seyward Darby
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Adam Przybyl
Illustrator: Jacqueline Tam

The typeface Blocus is used courtesy Martin Desinde via the Velvetyne Type Foundry.

Published in November 2020.

One

A few years ago, my husband and I decided to buy a house. We wanted to save a piece of historic San Francisco, making a new home in an old place before it became unrecognizable. Mat and I visited a few grand Victorians, their facades dripping with gingerbread trim. Inside we expected to find the San Francisco that my parents and grandparents knew: formal, dignified, timeless. Instead there was clean, crisp minimalism. Silicon Valley tastes had gotten there first.

What luck, then, that we did find our house. Narrow and wooden, it was in some ways a time capsule of 1910, the year it was completed, with stained-glass windows, parquet floors, and a built-in buffet. Most of its surfaces, however, had been painted white. Realtors had informed the sellers that to attract buyers and a good price, the place needed to be brightened up. So the subtle distinctions among types of wood—oak, mahogany, fir—were erased in favor of aesthetic uniformity and an oppressive glare.

Thankfully, the house’s most unusual features were left exposed, though you had to squint to see them amid the encroaching whiteness. Two murals, dusty and faded—they were unsigned and of no great ability, but what charm they had. Stretching across all four walls of the dining room was a depiction of colonial San Francisco. Catholic priests, swashbucklers, and revelers passed in front of a faded Mission church, opposite a seascape with a Spanish galleon in the foreground and another silhouetted on the horizon. Seagulls hovered above the buffet. A small back room presented a quieter, more reflective mural. It was a landscape of the American West at its most idyllic: a tranquil lake and waterfowl surrounded by a thick forest. Occupying two corners were, respectively, a white stork and a pair of mute swans, distinguished by their orange beaks. A mighty, lone mountain loomed behind them.

Who had created these scenes? My imagination filled in a story. Maybe the builder was a European aristocrat whose father had squandered the last of the family fortune. The son was forced to live modestly, in no grand neighborhood and in a house too small for servants. But he refused to do so without art or elegance, so he adorned the walls himself.

Or perhaps he was a man of noble Spanish descent who with melancholy dreamed of the days before American fortune seekers arrived. Even though he hadn’t lived through that era himself, it was in his blood. He could feel what it was like when California was sparsely populated by Indians, cattle, and Spaniards, when contact with the rest of the world came through only a handful of ships per year.

Maybe he was a former frontiersman who recalled the wonder of the landscapes he had willed himself across. People don’t understand nowadays, he would say, how easy they have it—just hopping on a train to get where you’re going doesn’t provide the same satisfaction as getting there on foot. He recalled leaving home as a boy, the flatness of the East giving way to the ruggedness of the West. He hadn’t just witnessed the change—he’d felt it beneath his boots.

The first week we owned the house, Mat and I learned the true identity of its builder. Such are the wonders of the internet. A quick newspaper-archive search and there he was: Hans Jorgen Hansen, a young Danish immigrant alternately described as a carpenter and a contractor. He built many houses. This one, finished when he was 30 years old, was his home.

He had created something beautiful, but the world it seemed didn’t value his vision of beauty anymore. I was determined to restore the house and to hear what it had to say, to find the story I was sure it held. What I didn’t expect was that the story would come to me in written form, after being secreted away for more than a century.

Two

It is probably easier to ignore the past, to forget what came before and remake the world clean and new. That has never appealed to me. I value the past because I have to. My parents died when I was in grammar school, my mother a year before my father, orphaning me and my three siblings. Now, years later, few traces of them remain. I inherited my dad’s 1969 orange Jeep, by which I mean that Mat and I dragged its remains out of a barn and spent thousands of dollars making it drivable again. The Jeep is old and stiff, the floor rusted through in spots, and there never were doors or a roof. I’m sure I make for a curious sight driving around San Francisco in what most people would relegate to a junkyard. I joke that one day, just like in the cartoons, I’m going to go over a bump and suddenly be holding a detached steering wheel, the rest of the Jeep broken in a heap beneath me.

Renovating a house, then, wasn’t the first time I had taken something old and neglected and broken and tried to make it whole again. Our house is on the western side of San Francisco, in what was once marked on maps as the Great Sand Waste. Drifting dunes were tamped down to create more than 40 avenues of prewar, suburban-style housing, and the neighborhood was optimistically renamed the Sunset District. There is a calm sameness to the swath of single-family homes that seem to march out to meet the ocean. While I will never love the fog that drifts in from the Pacific and the drabness it brings, I chose to live here. And I convinced Mat to do the same, out of a stubborn insistence that I am a San Franciscan. I grew up here. So did my father and grandfather.

I once found a picture of our house from 1914. Sand is piled up on the empty lot on the south side, where an apartment building would eventually be built. A woman and child perch on a horse cart being drawn up the street. Lace curtains hang in the house’s windows. They seem so real that, sitting inside more than 100 years later, my urge is to turn around and part them, letting in whatever sunlight manages to peek through the passing clouds.

Even when there is sun, the dining room gets almost no light. That was intentional: Builders at the turn of the 20th century knew that dining rooms would be used most often in the evening, when candlelight cast a warm, intimate glow. To enhance the effect they were placed in the center of homes, the ceilings set lower than in other rooms, and the walls paneled in polished wood. Mirrors, brass fixtures, and crystal knobs lent sparkle.

When we moved in, these details were covered by the menace of white paint. At first I thought I would just strip the buffet. I geared up—heat gun, dental tools, chemical strippers, protective respirator—and worked for three weeks, six hours a day. When I finally freed it, the oak glowed a beautiful, natural orange. The art-glass windows in the cabinet doors had been a garish yellow, but now that the panel behind them wasn’t white, they were a warm amber. The room’s mural of colonial San Francisco even seemed to mellow. The galleons no longer sat on a chilly black ocean—the water was a lovely midnight blue. I noticed for the first time the use of tangerine paint on every wall, meant to complement the wood in the buffet.

I knew it wouldn’t be right to stop. I had to liberate the wall panels, the window frames, the box-beam ceiling. I stripped the dining room for a year and a half, patiently picking paint out of egg and dart trim and dentil molding. Stripping leaves a lot of time for thinking, and my recurring fantasy was of unloading trash bags full of white paint chips onto the doorstep of whoever had decided that obscuring this house’s interior was a good idea. Perversely, perhaps, I enjoyed the work and continued the transformation when I finished the dining room. I spent six months stripping the small back room with the second mural, three weeks stripping the bedroom mantel. Today the house’s entryway greets me with half-white, half-exposed panels every time I walk through the front door.

Other parts of the house we sent off for restoration. We had the living room mantel and the bookcase next to it ripped out, and we carefully labeled the pieces of wood that piled up on the floor so we knew how to fit them back together. Mat and I knocked 13 doors off their hinges, then removed the hardware too. We hauled everything out for a chemical bath. After being dipped in giant vats, the wood came back renewed.

Our house began to offer the kind of clues I’d hoped for, hints about its story. When we took the bookcase off the wall, a piece of paper slipped out. I unfolded its edges, perforated by a hundred tiny nibbles that made me wonder if resident mice had been trying to make paper snowflakes. The bites formed a perimeter around a faded hand-drawing of the brackets on the house’s exterior. This was part of the builder’s original design.

When we repurposed a bedroom as part of an enlarged kitchen, we carefully removed the charming inlaid squares in the floor’s corners to reuse later. Under each one, someone had placed a piece of card stock advertising a tailor named C.J. Petersen. Who was he, and why had someone put the cards there? I leaned them on a window ledge as a reminder to find out.

I once discovered a paper bag crumpled up in the house’s rafters. I’d hoped it held photographs that previous owners had forgotten. Maybe I would catch a glimpse of lives otherwise lost to time. But when I opened the bag, I immediately threw it down in horror. Inside were two sets of dentures. Surely someone was having fun with me.

I was raised Catholic, and while it’s not very fashionable to believe in God anymore, the alternative is to accept personal extinction. I believe only time separates the living and the dead, and that it’s not an insurmountable barrier. My parents, for instance, still exist somewhere. My youngest sister once went to a psychic who surprised her by announcing that our parents were watching and guiding her. Except they really weren’t too concerned with her—they’d been busy directing their energy toward our sometimes wayward brother. (My sister was annoyed but conceded that he was probably a better use of their resources.) I was sure that whoever left the dentures had a far less noble purpose. I imagined them looking down from the heavens, laughing at a century-delayed joke.

One cold January evening, as the fog hung low to the ground, the cable cut out while we were watching TV. Mat went downstairs to reset the modem. Our basement had been torn apart for several months because we were doing a seismic retrofit. The steps I soon heard Mat walking back up were also in need of an upgrade. The wood that at some point had been used to repair the staircase was cheap, and the sound the steps made underfoot was loudly hollow. That night, however, the thud was arresting. Mat wasn’t walking back to me—he was bounding.

He flung open the door to the room where I was waiting and held out a book, its marbled cover torn and thick with dust. Somehow I knew in that moment that it held the key to the house’s story. By bringing the house back to life, I had earned it.

I opened the cover and saw in elegant handwriting the name Hans Jorgen Hansen and the year 1900. It was a diary belonging to the man who built our house. As I turned the pages, I noticed that someone else had written on them, too, a woman named Anna. How unusual, I thought, for two people to share a diary—even more so because, according to historical records, Hans’s wife was named Christine.

Three

The story of Hans and Anna begins the way stories often have over the centuries: A youth on the verge of manhood sets out from his ancestral village. In this case that village is in Denmark, and the year is 1900. The forces of the world conspire to entice young men like Hans, now 20, out of the fields and into cities. If they have a yearning for adventure and a bit of daring, they continue onward to new lands. They may never return to the villages that shaped them because the world needs them. Its appetite for ambition and cleverness is insatiable. Tradition be damned—here is progress.

On the second day of the first year of the new century, Hans loads his suitcase into a wheelbarrow and sets off down an icy road, pushing his belongings over gentle hills. He arrives at a train station, where he buys a third-class ticket to the industrial city of Odense. By urban standards it’s provincial, but broad boulevards have supplanted medieval lanes, lending Odense a bit of grandness. Hans is here for a train transfer, but with time to see something new, he walks into the bustling town.

He’s looking for a bookstore—an appropriate goal in the city whose most famous son is also Denmark’s greatest storyteller, Hans Christian Andersen. This Hans, the subject of our story, appreciates Danish literature, but right now all he wants to read about is America, because that is where he longs to be. On Vestergade—gade is Danish for “street”—at one of the largest booksellers in Odense, he thumbs through journalist Henrik Cavling’s dispatches in From America. He would like to buy it but should probably save his money. He doesn’t want to leave empty-handed, however, so he purchases a diary instead.

That diary—dagbog in Danish—will accompany Hans around the world. It will feel at times as if it were his only friend, his dear bog. For now he continues by train to the seaside town of Faaborg, where he will work.

Anna and Hans knew better than most that the bonds of blood aren’t always enough to keep people together. Together they would create something stronger.

When he arrives, a letter is waiting for him. It’s from Anna in America. Anna who has already gone into the mouth of the hungry world. From the moment he first saw her, six years earlier in his village, Hans knew it was his destiny to be with her, the beautiful girl with black hair. It wasn’t her fault that she had to leave him. Anna lived with her grandparents, and she was only 14 when her grandfather died. She and her grandmother had no one else to rely on in the village, so they soon left for a place called Michigan, where Anna’s aunt lived.

People said that if her mother had made better choices, Anna’s life would have unfolded differently. Anna was born out of wedlock. Other boys might have looked down on her for this, but not Hans. In Anna he saw a nobleness of spirit.

Besides, his mother had also committed a sin when she conceived him; he and Anna had that in common. Their respective fathers were good enough to acknowledge their progeny, bestowing them with a little dignity and a surname. Anna’s paternal grandparents were the ones who’d raised her. But she and Hans knew better than most that the bonds of blood aren’t always enough to keep people together. Together they would create something stronger.

Four

I didn’t learn these details from the diary. At least, not right away. Its entries were written almost entirely in Danish, which I can’t read and don’t speak.

There were two diaries, in fact, the second of which had relatively little writing, all of it by Hans. There was also a stack of letters. Mat found everything—all this treasure—when he went to reset the modem. The basement ceiling had recently been demolished as part of our renovations. The books and letters had fallen from their hiding place, a cavity where Hans—who else?—had stashed them. I wondered if Mat and I were the first people to read them in a century.

At first all I could learn about Hans and Anna was gleaned from the documents’ few sections written in English:

Dear Anna… Tonight I have been reading over and over again your old letters from the dear old time; but I must not dream the old dreams; but Oh Anna I can’t help it because I do love you in spite of all.

Dear Hans… I am to blame for all you have ever suffered and God forgive me for it…. I am so sorry I was such a good for nothing foolish girl but at the same time I never meant to do any sin.

What drama or scandal was locked in these pages? Handwriting is a funny thing, not least because few people read it much anymore. Anna’s was neat, polite, and comfortably contained by the page. Hans, whose writing made up 90 percent of our find, had a bolder stroke. His flourishes veered maddeningly into indecipherability. In places, the pressure he exerted on his pen had made the ink pool and the letters bleed.

I sent a few diary passages to various Danish friends of friends, but while the language was theirs, none wanted to spend the time required to decipher such baroque penmanship. Frustrated, I made out the letters as best I could and typed the words they seemed to form into Google Translate. At first what came back was gibberish. But the longer I spent with the words, the more of them I got right, and the more the translator divulged actual language. I was also becoming familiar with Hans’s scrawl. His “D” was the longest, most elegant version of that letter I’d ever seen. It marked the beginning of the diary entry in which he lovingly recalled meeting Anna when they were children.

I eventually typed every word from the diaries and letters—some 20,000 in all—into the translator, and a picture of Hans and Anna’s story began to come into focus. Mat and I also did some genealogical research, amassing supporting facts. I found documentation of Anna and her grandmother’s 1897 passage to New York via Ellis Island. I found the household in St. Joseph, Michigan, where Anna was employed. I found evidence of Hans’s departure from Denmark after his stint in Faaborg—a voyage to Sydney, Australia, and onward to Brisbane—as well as his death certificate and a record of his grave just outside San Francisco, which we visited. We reconstructed Hans’s family tree and found a great-grandson on Facebook. We learned that Hans had three children with the woman named Christine, and that their marriage ended in divorce. 

I was sure I knew why: Hans and Anna could only love each other. What then had kept them apart?

Five

Winters in Denmark are long and cold. The wind that sweeps off the North Sea blows through the country’s bays, shallow hills, and beech forests. The nights, too, can seem endless. A man may find himself alone with his thoughts for longer than should be allowed. “There is not much to say,” Hans writes one January evening, “just that time was twice as long as the previous day.” Sheltered by thick, half-timbered walls, illuminated by weak candlelight, Hans and other men stave off boredom with games of cards and letters from faraway places.

Hans often lies awake at night imagining himself in New York, where Anna will travel from Michigan to reunite with him. In his diary he writes that the streets “will be completely different from the cobblestones of Faaborg.” He decides to “learn something useful to be worthy of her” and becomes a carpenter, a job he hopes will allow him to earn his way to America and support Anna. But good-paying work can be hard to come by in Denmark, and Hans will spend portions of the winter and spring of 1900 trying to find it.

In moments of despair, his mind wanders back to happier times. When he was 14, he tended cows in Husby, the farming hamlet where he grew up. Husby overlooks the sea, and the wind carries the smells of agriculture into peoples’ homes. At the heart of the village’s expansive fields sits the parish church. Most churches in rural Denmark have simple whitewashed towers, but not this one. To create a symbol befitting their status, the local aristocracy—among the most powerful landholders in the country—took inspiration from Italian artistry. Husby’s church boasts a copper onion dome atop a Tuscan-yellow tower, a glimmer of grandeur in an otherwise modest landscape.

Hans remembers his younger self leaving the cow fields one day to play with other boys in the village and seeing Anna for the first time. “In my quiet mind,” he reminisces in his diary, “I imagined myself and Anna engaged.” It was as if he didn’t really have a choice, not that he wanted one. Fate brought them together again at age 16, working as farmhands at the home of a widow. Anna was lively and dramatic, a “witty endearing spirit.” After she moved to America, she and Hans began a correspondence. They “became closer and came to rely on each other,” like family of their own choosing.

“I have seen many beautiful girls,” Hans writes in his diary, “but no one has been able to erase the image of my dear black-haired girl with the brave and joyful mind.”

Now, in Faaborg, Hans receives letters from Anna assuring him that she loves him. He is certain their union “will soon become reality,” that they “live only in the world of dreams yet.” In Danish, there’s a word for this kind of reverie: luftkasteller, or “castles in the sky.” Hans is building luftkasteller. The castles are their future, his and Anna’s, strong and impenetrable.

Or so he thinks.

Passage to America can be expensive. Other Danes are instead leaving for Australia, where the government is so desperate for labor that it will subsidize a man’s journey. Hans would likely live someplace hot and dusty. Going there would delay his arrival in America by years. Still, it feels one step closer to Anna.

That is how Hans finds himself in the middle of the Indian Ocean, aboard the steamship Oroya, as the year turns from 1900 to 1901. The journey to Sydney lasts 45 days. Hans and a few Danish friends board another ship to Queensland, then travel 300 miles to the territory’s interior, where dry grass stretches on and on until there is enough moisture to support a forest of red cedar, kauri pine, and other trees. The men help fell those forests, cutting the timber used to fuel the continent’s economic growth.

Hans lives in what the Australians call a humpy: a structure made of two poles stuck into the ground to keep a tin roof aloft, and open in front to the elements. There is only enough room for two makeshift beds. One is for Hans and the other is for his friend, a man named Sorensen. They wash their clothes in a river and cook their food over an open flame. The Australian heat is so fantastic that sometimes Hans can only laugh at it.

He thinks often of Anna, especially at night as the moon rises. “I have seen many beautiful girls,” he writes in his diary, “but no one has been able to erase the image of my dear black-haired girl with the brave and joyful mind.” Yet something has changed. He has not received a letter from her since he left Denmark. “I long to hear a little from little Anna in America,” Hans writes in April 1901. “It is 6 months since I got the last letter from her but I wait every day.”

He doesn’t know it yet, but his luftkasteller are about to break apart, and they will threaten to crush him. By the end of 1901, Anna will be married to another man.

Six

The details of when Anna decided to forsake Hans and how she told him weren’t contained in the diaries or letters that fell from my basement ceiling. Perhaps Anna did finally send him a note in Australia, only to say that she couldn’t wait for him any longer—she needed certainty, a family, a life. Or maybe she had no choice. Anna would later write, vaguely, of getting “in trouble on my own.” Did she, like her mother and Hans’s had before her, become pregnant out of wedlock? Unlike them, did she decide to marry her lover? I could only guess that the missive containing that explanation was gone because Hans couldn’t bear to keep it.

Anna’s marriage might explain why Hans didn’t write in his diary for four years. He suffered grief in silence. Their story wasn’t over, though. I knew that for sure, because Anna didn’t write in the diary until 1905.

I was hooked on the puzzle I was piecing together, to the point that people in my life started asking why. To me the question was the reverse: Why wouldn’t I try to untangle the story of a love affair more than a century old? Who wouldn’t want to learn what became of Hans and Anna? So what if they weren’t my ancestors. So what if they were just ordinary people who lived ordinary lives. Anyone in my position, with a diary full of mysteries that all but fell into her hands, would surely go to the same lengths to find answers.

In truth, I know that my fascination with the past—reawakening it, finding meaning in it—motivates me to ask questions that many people don’t need answered. It compels me to do things that to others seem drastic, even obsessional, but to me feel inevitable. Like scraping paint from the walls of my house for so many hours, over so many months, that long after I’ve removed my respirator for good, I sometimes think I can still see its outlines on my face.

A few years ago, while going through digitized family videos, I found old Super 8 footage of my dad taking a trip to Utah in his—our—orange Jeep. No sound, just moving images of my 20-year-old father, with his own father by his side, maneuvering along four-wheel-drive trails. The Jeep was shinier than I’d ever seen it. There was no one left to ask what route my father and grandfather had taken on that trip, but I knew the canyons of Utah well. I was certain I could find the trails from the video. I isolated images of rock formations and scoured online photos until I found a match: Paul Bunyan’s Potty, a natural arch in Canyonlands National Park. Mat and I loaded the Jeep onto a rented trailer and towed it 1,100 miles to Utah. We brought a drone and a GoPro with us. Mat did all the filming as I drove roads the Jeep had been down some 40 years earlier.

I don’t know what I expected to find in Utah, only that I was sure I had to go. The same was true when I bought a plane ticket for April 2019 and traveled more than 5,000 miles from San Francisco to Denmark. I rented a car and drove alone down country roads on a frigid day, feeling excited and a little embarrassed. When I arrived in Husby on a Sunday, the buildings were so sparse that calling it a town seemed generous. The only business I was able to identify was an auto repair shop, and it was closed.

I wanted to find a road called Norregade—it was there, at the home of the widow of a man named Lars Andersen, that Hans and Anna first spent time together as teenagers. “The wind is crying out and bringing back to my thoughts the winter when we were together,” Anna once wrote. She and Hans said their goodbyes on Norregade before Anna left for America. “I remember our last meeting like it was a shooting star,” Anna wrote. “God knows if we meet again on this rolling earth.”

On my map of Husby, Norregade didn’t exist. I assumed it had been renamed and I just needed to ask someone in town. Driving Husby’s back roads, I spotted a couple out for a chilly afternoon stroll. I slowed the car, rolled down the window, and shouted, “Do you speak English?” They turned to look at me and replied with an almost bewildered “Of course.” Well, I explained, I have a strange question. You see, I come from America, and a Danish man built my house 100 years ago, and I found his diary, and do you know where Norregade is?

The couple said they didn’t, that they were only weekenders. But their neighbors might. They climbed in my car and we drove 30 seconds to the home of a retired couple who were in the midst of baking rye bread. I asked if they knew Norregade. We don’t, they said, but our other neighbor might—she’s 90 years old. The husband went to fetch her. Five minutes later she was beside me, the expert who had lived in Husby her whole life.

She knew Norregade—it was now called Sjobjergvej. (Vej means “way.”) She had known the Andersens, too, the family of the widow Hans and Anna once worked for. She even knew which house had belonged to them, and marked its location on my map. I set out for Sjobjergvej, where I asked my questions all over again and found myself welcomed into the home of another couple. The old farmhouse where Hans and Anna worked had long ago been demolished. Still, I was in the place where their love story began.                                              

People’s eyes lit up when I explained why I was in Husby, just me and my binder full of photocopied diary entries. A woman cheered when I showed her pictures of my house, like Husby’s worth in the world had been secured by what one of its sons achieved elsewhere. And here I was, ratifying his efforts by traveling all the way to Denmark.

I visited other towns that figured in Hans and Anna’s story. I contacted regional archives to locate documentation of their existence. I sat with historians who translated diary entries better than I—which is to say Google—ever could, scribbling as they spoke. I popped into a coffee shop and didn’t leave for five hours, as an impromptu cadre of locals pored over documents and pictures, coming up with their own theories about Hans and Anna. I sparked enough interest that I was later contacted by an amateur genealogist who sifted through Danish church records on my behalf, gathering information about Hans’s and Anna’s families.

I came home from Denmark with a better understanding of who Hans and Anna were and where they came from. If only every trip a person takes could be so warm, so fruitful. Hans once wished the same, only to embark on a hopeful journey that ended in bitter disappointment. 

Seven

Hans’s American dream gnaws at him. Is the country really all that people say it is? He finally is able to find out for himself when he travels to California’s northern timber country, where the giants of the forest sit in a landscape that formed in the Jurassic period. The redwoods are the tallest things alive. The Douglas firs are almost as mighty. Together they seem to dare men to build something—a civilization—as grand as they are.

Hans finds San Francisco to be a marvelous party disguised as a city. He plays cards, bowls, and gambles. He wonders if settling down will ever be for him if it means that he’s not with Anna.

They still write to each other. As friends. Childhood friends. Practically family. In the fall of 1905—more than five years since Hans left Denmark, and eight since he last saw Anna—he travels to see her. He is bound for Chicago, where she can visit him from her home just across the city’s great lake, and he can return the courtesy. He’ll find work and a place to live for a while. And maybe he’ll like it enough to stay. Maybe Anna will ask him to.

Anna is the same kindhearted, buoyant young woman he remembers—still beautiful, with jet-black hair and sharp, full features that give depth to her lingering girlishness. She has lived in the small town of St. Joseph ever since she left Denmark. Her grandmother and her aunt and uncle are close by. She has no children. She has worked as a servant in wealthy households. She has never been truly happy.

But oh, how Anna has loved Hans’s letters. What adventures he’s had, how worldly he’s become.

Anna’s marriage isn’t going well. Her husband, whom Hans meets in Chicago, is a mischievous and sometimes callous man. He was born in Germany. He loves to drink, sometimes with women who are not his wife. His name is Emil, but no one calls him that. Everyone calls him by his last name, Frost—even Anna.

Frost isn’t a fool. He sees what’s going on between Anna and her friend. Once, when drunk, man to man, Frost tells Hans he would sell Anna to him for $500. Then he pretends it was a joke all along. Ha! Frost says he couldn’t live without her anyway. Later, Frost tells his wife that Hans “didn’t care enough…. I won’t let him have you now.”

On one of Anna’s weekend visits to Chicago, she and Hans go out, just the two of them, for dinner at a restaurant on Humboldt Avenue. Neither will write down what transpires that evening, but maybe—surely—it happens like this: Their conversation turns to Frost, because it always does. Anna grew up without parents and told herself that, even if her origins were impure, she would always be pure of heart. She’d made a vow. But if only her husband could be more like Hans. He sits listening to her. It takes everything within him not to move his hand across the table and put it to Anna’s cheek and tell her he loves her more than anything. At the very least he needs her to understand that he thinks she deserves the world. Hans starts to tell her about his diary with the marbled cover. He will give it to her, and she will understand how he feels. The proof is in the writing.

She still has hope, or maybe it’s faith. “It is God’s will that when you and I again get together it will be under different circumstances,” Anna writes.

Anna returns home to St. Joseph in possession of the diary. She reads Hans’s words from 1900 onward and is overcome—she scribbles into one of the diary’s margins that when she grasped his devotion, her heart “almost stood still.” She knows the diary is not hers to keep, but when she gives it back to Hans, she wants him to find comfort in her words, just as she has in his. Anna writes:

Oh how my heart ached for you the day we left Chicago. I sat like a dead woman all the way home. Frost talked and I could not answer. I think that was the saddest day of my life. How I would love to be with you but I can’t until God wills it so…. My beloved brother life would be empty if it were not for you…. We were born to each other I feel it.

The possibilities spin in her head. It’s not an honorable thing to do, leave one’s husband. At least not now. Maybe she will in the future. Even though it would be a sin. But doesn’t God want people to be happy? Doesn’t he want her to be happy?

When it’s time to return the diary, some two months after Hans gave it to her, Anna has made up her mind. “I would be the happiest woman in the world if I could always be with you but there would be one little drop in our cup and that would be that I would always fear that I had done a sin,” she writes in her final entry. To leave her marriage would jeopardize her soul—and Hans’s, too. “In parting us this time,” she writes, “[God] also saved us from the results of what we would have done.” As long as Frost “does his duty,” Anna says, “I shall do mine.” She still has hope, or maybe it’s faith. “It is God’s will that when you and I again get together it will be under different circumstances,” she writes.

It is a sad truth to bear, and Hans decides to return to California. He has shared everything with Anna—what more can he do? She is welcome to visit him. “You are all I have,” he writes in the diary, “and you are as welcome as flowers in May. I am always waiting for you to pay me a visit or to stay forever.”

Hans makes his arrangements to leave Chicago, diary in hand. One day he writes with what feels like finality, pledging to get married to someone else just to show Anna he can live without her—she who says she loves him but who “promised someone else the same.” Hans writes, “You and I little Anna could be happy; but you set me apart for another.… Anyway, I am not angry with you in any way.”

It is now the spring of 1906. What neither of them knows—what no one knows—is that the God whom Anna so fervently believes in will soon punish San Francisco. On April 18, at 5:12 a.m., the ground beneath the city will shake harder than it has ever shaken before. When the earthquake is over, the fires will start; they won’t stop for three days, until most of the city is reduced to ashes.

Once the dust of the disaster settles, the old game of making a fortune will return in full swing. Two hundred thousand people—half the city’s population—will be homeless, which is good business for someone like Hans. Skilled men will be needed to sweep up the ashes and put houses back where they used to be.

Hans returns to San Francisco, or what’s left of it. He will stay forever.

Eight

To tell the story up to this point, I had most of what I needed. The diaries and letters were often rich in detail, certainly full of emotion. I just needed to organize what Hans and Anna wrote into a narrative, supplemented by what I had learned in Denmark and in my genealogical research. But Hans mostly stopped writing in his diary after leaving Chicago. An entry here and there, nothing more. They were short and often melancholy. “The sadness is coming over me again,” he noted on August 10, 1908.

The last time he wrote in the diary, Hans was 30. It was 1910, the year he finished building the house in which I now live. It probably didn’t happen this way—probably wasn’t this dramatic—but I imagine Hans huddled in the dark of his basement, shaking his head in disappointment as his pen meets the pages of his bog for the last time. Before he closes the cover and hides the diary in the ceiling, he writes:

September 19, 1910

Many years have gone since I last wrote in my book, and I have to talk to someone tonight…. My whole life has been destroyed and I have now been away from [Anna] for a long time. And yet her and no other is what my life is all about. Anna, Anna why is everything against me. Everyone tells me I’m crazy, because I am not taking any interest in anyone but you. I shall always keep you in my mind and treasure your memories and keep them for myself. Goodnight, you are my life’s star, without you everything is empty and you never want to write to me. Everything that I have is your letters and the memory of you. Goodnight my beloved friend, you are my everything. Hope disappears. I hope it will rise again.

Three months later, Hans married Christine Petersen, literally the girl next door, on what was surely a miserable wedding day. “I know that I do sin if I marry another,” he’d once written. Hans and Christine’s great-grandson told me that their marriage was not a happy one. Their divorce was contentious, and Hans was not remembered fondly by his descendants. I didn’t pry. I knew from Hans’s diary that he soured over time. A romantic became a cynic. A hopeful youth grew into a bitter man.

Maybe Hans wasn’t wholly deserving of my sympathy, but understanding what ruined him was another matter. I still had so many questions: Did Hans leave the diary and letters untouched for as long as he lived in the house, or did he retrieve them from their hiding place on occasion to read in secret? Christine and her brother C.J. Petersen, the tailor whose name was on the cards Mat and I found in the bedroom floor—one small mystery solved—were awarded the house after Christine’s divorce from Hans was finalized in 1929. Were the hidden documents left behind on purpose, valueless after so many years, or forgotten in the chaos of separation?

More research only led to more questions. In newspaper archives, I found a perplexing detail: Right around the time that Hans returned to San Francisco, in 1906, Anna and Emil Frost were divorced after all. Unfortunately for Hans, Anna’s liberated future didn’t include him. Maybe it was only the idea of Hans—comforting, attentive, a reminder of home—that Anna loved.

I knew that Anna was 25 when she divorced. After that her trail went cold. I couldn’t find evidence of her anywhere. As I had when I first saw the murals in my house, I started filling in the blanks with a story: Anna lived the rest of her life in Michigan, working in other people’s homes. She remarried someone kind and reliable, but it was a relationship absent the passion she had known with Hans. She had children. In old age, perhaps she returned to Denmark. She’d once written to Hans that she couldn’t “wait til we get to our fatherland … where our feet trod when we were children (God bless those days).” Maybe for the sake of nostalgia—something she hadn’t allowed herself to feel while raising her family—she traveled to Husby and visited Norregade, standing on the quiet lane I would visit several decades later. Maybe she hoped that being there could answer her questions about the life she’d chosen not to live.

Nine

I have a vivid memory, early one morning when my father was in the hospital, of my uncle making his way up the carpeted stairs to the bedrooms where my siblings and I slept. I was nine years old. I knew my uncle was bringing bad news. How is that possible, to just know? Maybe his steps were slower or heavier than normal. Or maybe you can feel someone you love slipping away from this world.

Every few years I have a different experience of knowing. I’ll be in a crowd or walking down the street, and I’ll catch a glimpse of my mother or father. Something about the way they move or hold themselves or brush their hair from their face makes me certain. I’m wrong, of course, but the joy is true. If only for a moment, something I want seems real.

A similar thing happened when I finally found Anna. My trip to Denmark had furnished me with the facts that follow a person during their life, no matter where they end up. I knew Anna’s date of birth and the village where she was born and her date of entry into the United States. I knew that her father was Danish, her mother Swedish. I found her application for a passport. I looked at her picture, her dark hair and mournful eyes. She signed her name in the same meticulous way she had in Hans’s diary.

These facts are what made me sure that the Anna I came across on Ancestry.com was unmistakably, irrefutably her. My heart leaped in my chest. Then it fell, because of where I found her and what it might mean.

She wasn’t in Michigan or Chicago or Denmark. Anna had been in San Francisco all along.

She had moved here by at least 1910. What reason could there have been but Hans? Yet two months after Hans wed Christine, Anna married a man named L.B. Carpenter. They never had children. A mining engineer, Carpenter died in 1929 and left Anna with no choice but to return to domestic service as the Great Depression unfolded. Meanwhile, Hans never recovered his financial footing after divorcing Christine, though he continued to build houses. He moved into a residential hotel in the Tenderloin, a neighborhood then full of clerks and teachers, skilled laborers and transient workers, all living conveniently in the city’s downtown.

Did Hans and Anna try a relationship when she first arrived, only to find that it couldn’t live up to what they’d imagined for so long? Hans’s diary gives no indication of this—perhaps when they were finally together, he didn’t feel the need to write. In his final entry, Hans wrote that he’d been “away from [Anna] for a long time.” What if he meant months, not years, as I’d assumed? I found myself hoping so. The notion of Anna coming to San Francisco and not seeing Hans felt impossible.

Hans died in 1966, Anna in 1968, which meant they both lived into their eighties. I was able to find only skeletal traces of their later lives. Addresses in city directories. Census data, but only up to 1940. Newspaper clippings that mentioned city lots Hans was developing. Anna didn’t have any descendants to find and interview. Hans and Christine’s great-grandson told me that St. Joseph, Michigan, sounded familiar, but he wasn’t sure why.

There was one final revelation, and with it a glimmer of hope: In the last decades of her life, Anna moved into an apartment building in the Tenderloin. She lived only three blocks away from Hans. Maybe this was a coincidence, but I remembered the words of their youth. “I know that sometime a time will come when Anna and I are together,” Hans wrote. “A voice whispers in my ear that (Everything comes to those who wait) and I will wait for you to come in 20 years.” Here is Anna: “When you and I get to be 80 years old I shall love you just the same no matter where you are…. Never forget that I am always with you and always will be, [even] if you go to the end of the world.”

I drove to the Tenderloin and walked the distance between their apartment buildings. The historic cityscape, rebuilt after the 1906 earthquake, is pleasing, even if the neighborhood became synonymous with inner-city vice. This was already becoming true in the mid-20th century, when Hans and Anna lived here. Perhaps by then the tempestuousness between them had eased and they were a comfort to each other. I imagined Hans ambling to Anna’s apartment, and Anna coming down to greet him, seeing his familiar grin. Maybe they no longer interpret the pull between them as romance, cherishing it instead as an unbreakable kinship.

She takes his arm and, side by side, they walk through the city.

Ten

In the home movie Mat and I re-created in Utah, I am behind the wheel of my father’s Jeep. The drone, piloted by Mat, shows me driving a barren red-dirt trail, steering through a series of technical four-wheel-drive maneuvers, and coming to a patch of earth where the road ends. The drone zooms out to show why: I have come to a bluff—there is a sheer 1,000-foot drop to the Colorado River below. Since the Jeep can go no farther, I get out and walk to the edge.

When we returned home from Utah, I took our footage and combined it with what my father had filmed on Super 8. I spliced scenes together, blurring the line between past and present. The moment when I’m on the precipice cuts to one at the same spot shot decades earlier. My father is there, his legs dangling over the cliff. I reversed the footage at this point so he appears to turn and greet me—the approaching figure—with a knowing nod. He’s like the wise knight in The Last Crusade, waiting all those years for Indiana Jones to arrive.

The movie seems to enter a time warp at this point, flashing rapidly between past and present. Few people who know my family have been able to get through it with a dry eye. At the end, Mat runs into the frame for the first time. The spell is broken. Mat puts his arm around my waist as we wave to the camera. Or are we waving to my father, thanking him for leading us here and for the opportunity to see him again?

I am desperate to communicate with the past, but so much of it is elusive, scattered, unknowable. I’m all too familiar with the frustration of sifting through fragments of truth and possibility for answers to my questions. I understand now that searching and listening and following are vital, but not always enough. I reconstruct what I can and use imagination to bring the rest into being. To set the world as it should be. To set it as I need it to be. What else can I—or anyone—do?

I write all this enveloped by Hans’s study. It’s a beautiful, peculiar little room, the one with the second mural. The sharp California sun streams through the picture window, with its tulip-patterned stained glass, and brightens the Honduran mahogany I spent half a year liberating from white paint. The effort it has taken to get here—I know it, because it was partly mine. The room sprang from Hans’s mind and from materials he could get his hands on, but it is here, still, because of me. So is the love story once concealed in the basement. I found it, heard it, and told it the best way I know how.

Maybe, though, someone else’s version of Hans and Anna’s story was always in plain sight. I stare up at the mural of the American West. For a time, I was confused by the two mute swans and the white stork, painted in corners of the room, because neither species is native to North America. I should have put it together sooner: The mute swan is a symbol of Denmark—the national bird—and features in Hans Christian Andersen’s iconic fairy tale “The Ugly Duckling.” White storks, now rare in the country because of habitat changes, traditionally arrived in Denmark from Africa each spring, signifying new beginnings.

The pair of swans—they’re Hans and Anna, aren’t they? Surrounded by the possibilities of a new world, swimming together in calm waters, together forever. It’s what Hans wanted more than anything, this ending to their story, and he made it so.


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Stranger Than Fiction

Stranger Than Fiction

Inside the ‘Epoch Times’: How an aspiring poet in Brooklyn became a tool in a right-wing propaganda blitz linked to Falun Gong.

By Oscar Schwartz

The Atavist Magazine, No. 108


Oscar Schwartz has written for The Guardian, The Baffler, The Atlantic, and Wired, among other publications. Originally from Australia, he is now based in Brooklyn. Follow him on Twitter: @scarschwartz.

Editor: Seyward Darby
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Kate Wheeling
Photographer: Jonno Rattman

Published in October 2020.

*Indicates a pseudonym.

I.

“Blame it on the Falun Gong / They’ve seen the end and you can’t hold on now.”

This lyric from the title track of Guns N’ Roses’ album Chinese Democracy popped into Steven Klett’s head as he rode the New York City subway one sunny Wednesday morning in March 2016. Klett, 27, was on his way from his apartment in Brooklyn to a job interview at a newspaper. He was wearing a green button-down shirt, a suit jacket, and black pants. His shoulder-length auburn hair was tied back in a tight, low ponytail. He needed this job desperately.

The position—breaking-news web content writer—was not his ideal gig. Klett had an MFA in poetry, and his chapbook A Field Full of Mirrors had been published in 2015 to some acclaim. He had dreamed, however briefly, of being a full-time poet. Now he was spending his days writing freelance copy for a public relations firm, earning $10 per article. He was a tidy, proficient writer, and had applied to jobs at venerable media outlets like Mother Jones and Slate. This was his first interview.

Before encountering the listing online, Klett had not heard of the Epoch Times. He browsed articles on its website, mostly brief reports cribbed from other news sources. The opinion section leaned conservative, offering takes that might appeal to Klett’s father. Klett considered himself something of an anarchist. But, as with his poetic aspirations, he was ready to set aside his political beliefs in order to make rent without having to skip meals.

One detail about the newspaper that seemed peculiar was its extensive coverage of human rights abuses in China. In particular, there were numerous reports about an organization called Falun Gong. Klett had not heard of Falun Gong, a spiritual movement whose followers, his cursory research showed, had been targeted for persecution by the Chinese government. As the subway rattled beneath the East River and Guns N’ Roses played in his mind, Klett wondered: Blame Falun Gong for what?

Klett arrived at the 12-story brick building on West 28th Street and took the elevator up to the fifth floor. He was greeted by the newspaper’s human resources manager and two senior editors—Cindy Drukier, who had a subtle Canadian accent, and Jasper Fakkert, a tall, slim man with a ginger beard that he scratched nervously. Drukier began the interview by noting that the two writing samples Klett had submitted concerned politics. She asked where he got his news. He said The Atlantic and The Washington Post, eager to veer as close to the ideological center as possible. The editors nodded.

After asking about his education, his work experience, his writing skills, and his poetry, the conversation turned to current events. The previous evening, Donald Trump had convincingly beaten his Republican opponents on Super Tuesday, and the prospect of his candidacy was being taken more seriously. Hillary Clinton had edged out Bernie Sanders. Klett, like many Americans, believed she had a real shot at the presidency.

Fakkert, who had a Dutch accent, explained that he was only interested in hiring reporters who would be able to cover the news in a fair and impartial way. “Here at the Epoch Times,” he said, “we are a nonpartisan news source.” Fakkert asked if Klett could write from a perspective that conflicted with his own views.

Klett had prepared for this question. He explained that a few months earlier he’d been asked by a manager at the PR firm where he freelanced to write a short blog post about Trump’s appearance hosting Saturday Night Live. Personally, Klett found Trump unfunny and self-aggrandizing, but the manager told him that Eric Trump, one of the candidate’s sons, was a client at the firm. “I was taking as neutral a position as I could,” Klett said of the post he ultimately wrote. “I thought of it as an exercise and a challenge to take my opinion out of the article.”

The editors smiled and thanked him for coming in. Later that day, they offered him the job.

As the subway rattled beneath the East River and Guns N’ Roses played in his mind, Klett wondered: Blame Falun Gong for what?

At a sports bar on a cold evening in December 2019, Klett leaned forward on his stool so I could hear his gentle, droning voice above the obnoxiously loud Christmas music. His long hair was magnificent, voluminous, excessively brushed. It lent him a strong resemblance—but for a long scar running down his forehead—to Axl Rose. He had a meticulous memory and offered keenly observed details about his experience at the Epoch Times. The outlet, Klett learned during his tenure there, did much more than cover Falun Gong.

Since coming to global attention in the late 1990s, Falun Gong has flourished precisely because its adherents use print and digital media to reach sympathetic audiences beyond China. Falun Gong simultaneously spreads news of its plight and amplifies the worldview of its charismatic founder, Li Hongzhi, who claims that his teachings are rooted in ancient beliefs and practices and promise believers health, freedom, and moral fortitude. But where some see a virtuous community, others see a cult: Critics say that Li is a narcissistic charlatan who enlists guileless followers to adopt his conservative social views.

Falun Gong practitioners insist that this portrayal is false, concocted by Beijing to tarnish Li’s name because the Communist regime perceives his movement as a threat. But while it is true that China’s state media routinely depicts Falun Gong as deviant, the movement’s positive image emanates largely from its own information apparatus. When reporting on Falun Gong, Western journalists tend to draw on both characterizations, presumably in the name of objectivity. If each is a fabrication serving divergent ideological ends, though, can the result be anything but a collage of propaganda?

The Epoch Times is a key player in the ongoing information war between China and Falun Gong. Indeed, the newspaper is the cornerstone of a media empire that the spiritual movement has built over the past 25 years. It publishes editions in 36 countries and 22 languages; most of the bureaus are run by Li acolytes. In the United States, it reportedly reaches 250,000 weekly print readers, with 34 million monthly page views online. (The Epoch Times and the editors named in this story did not respond to multiple requests for interviews and comment.)

Klett didn’t know any of this when he was hired. Nor was he aware that the Epoch Times was becoming embroiled in yet another power struggle, this one in the United States. As the 2016 election approached, the newspaper morphed into a pro-Trump bullhorn. Writing on his personal blog, Klett would later compare the work he did at the paper to that of Russian bots, which “sow discord in the name of activism, and reduce talking points and political agendas to the conflicts that they engender and narratives that they inhabit.” In the lead-up to the 2020 election, the Epoch Times has pursued this strategy more vigorously than ever. An NBC investigation found that, in the first half of 2019, the newspaper laid out $1.5 million for some 11,000 pro-Trump Facebook ads—the only organization that spent more was the Trump campaign itself. More recently, the newspaper has peddled narratives about COVID-19 that cast China as the pandemic’s chief villain and Trump as a potential savior.

Klett is no longer employed by the newspaper, but he sent me documentation from the period when he worked there and contact information for friends and former colleagues who could corroborate his account. The story of how he became a cog in a burgeoning propaganda machine—and why he stayed on even as the paper’s history and biases became clear—offers a glimpse into the right-wing news industry that has upended the media landscape. It’s a story about the perils of clickbait journalism and disinformation, and the consequences of apathy and alienation. It’s also about the Byzantine collection of interests that helped usher in the Trump presidency.

Klett said that during his stint at the Epoch Times, he had a front-row seat to the epistemic crisis triggered by Trump’s ascendancy, one that has made distinguishing truth from political fiction increasingly difficult. “In that first interview, I was being honest when I said I could be neutral. I really believed that was possible,” Klett admitted, hands shoved deep into his pockets as we walked down a Brooklyn street in search of a quieter bar. “By the time I left, just a few days before the election, I realized what everyone is still coming to terms with.”

“What’s that?” I asked.

“That there’s no difference between the news and propaganda. That objectivity is about who has power.”

II.

The ubiquitous newspaper boxes of New York City—those colorful plastic and metal shells that, day in and day out, once served up the latest information about the world—today look like relics of a bygone media heyday. The red ones from which generations of New Yorkers grabbed the Village Voice stand empty. The blue and white dispensers of The New York Times are often vandalized beyond recognition. The containers that still offer the city’s free dailies are largely ignored by commuters staring at their social media feeds—unless they’ve been repurposed as receptacles for takeaway coffee cups.

The Epoch Times is an exception. Its bright yellow boxes adorned with royal blue text sit on street corners and near train stations everywhere from Chinatown to midtown Manhattan to Flushing, Queens. They are well maintained and frequently restocked, offering passersby a weekly tabloid for 50 cents. If the vast majority of New York’s dilapidated, graffiti-covered newspaper boxes offer a tangible symbol of the death of print, the Epoch Times containers, which are often secured firmly to the ground with metal chains, signify the newspaper’s staunch if quixotic mission to reach the largest possible audience by all available means.

Klett was told that his role at the paper would be to expand its reach on social media. As part of a new digital team, he would generate fast-paced, engaging news articles designed to increase traffic via Facebook and Twitter, where audiences were orders of magnitude larger—and even more chaotic—than on the bustling streets of New York. As was the case with his other writing jobs, clicks would be the metric by which his performance was assessed. He would be paid $2,500 per month, with the expectation that he’d get 100,000 hits per week. Anything over that would earn him a bonus.

Klett’s title was political reporter. At the time, he was following politics with obsessive focus. Like many of his friends, he was fascinated with Bernie Sanders’s campaign and spent many nights in bars talking about whether democratic socialism would ever come to America. Klett’s friends, like Klett himself, were mostly overeducated, underpaid, and downwardly mobile, snapped out of political apathy by the prospect of a revolution “for the people.” Klett was horrified by the spectacle of Trump’s campaign. He knew that there was an America that greed and bigotry appealed to, but it felt far away from his present circumstances in Brooklyn—far away, even, from the mostly white, middle-class town where he grew up.

Born in the final year of Ronald Reagan’s presidency, Klett was raised in Clifton, New Jersey, in a two-story house on a dead-end street with a well-kept lawn and an aboveground pool. His father was quiet and worked a job that he only ever described to his family as “middle management.” Klett’s mother stayed home to take care of him and his brother. His father was a Republican, his mother a centrist Democrat. But they didn’t talk much about ideologies or affiliations. Politics were private, a matter of personal taste.

From a young age, Klett understood that he perplexed his parents. Where they sought to find a frictionless path through their suburban existence, Klett, though withdrawn, always seemed to stick out. He was an avid, precocious reader with a predilection for classic novels. In elementary school, he read Moby Dick. In middle school, he insisted on carrying around a copy of War and Peace. He rejected his parents’ Christianity and could quote Friedrich Nietzsche from memory. In high school, when his mother pushed him to join the marching band, he agreed begrudgingly, then complained that the conductor was an authoritarian. Klett made few friends and spent a lot of time in the counselor’s office.

His two salves were rock music—Soundgarden, Nirvana, Iron Maiden—and his grandmother. She lived on the lower floor of the family home. When Klett was fighting with his parents, he went downstairs to watch MSNBC with his grandmother or listen to her read from The New York Times. Sometimes she told him stories about when she worked as an air traffic controller in the Mojave Desert during World War II. She made the world feel bigger than Clifton, New Jersey.

After high school, Klett went to the College of New Jersey, just over an hour’s drive from home. He joined the track team in an attempt to make friends, but he found the hypermasculine culture of competitive sports menacing. He didn’t drink or do drugs, and he was still a virgin. He wasn’t invited to many parties, and he probably wouldn’t have gone anyway. Klett stayed up late in his room reading William S. Burroughs and writing poetry, imagining himself as one of the lost souls of Allen Ginsberg’s Howl, outsiders “who scribbled all night rocking and rolling over lofty incantations which in the yellow morning were stanzas of gibberish.”

In addition to studying philosophy and literature, Klett enrolled in a journalism class. His teacher, an adjunct who also worked at a Philadelphia newspaper, was idealistic about the function of journalism. She told her students that more important than learning to write a good lede was developing a keen, unflinching interest in the pursuit of truth. Bob Woodward was the paradigm for which they should strive—a Republican in his private life whose yearning for truth was so pure that he wrote stories that brought down a Republican president.

Several weeks into the semester, Klett’s instructor was assigned to cover a mass shooting. A 32-year-old man had stormed a one-room Amish schoolhouse in rural Pennsylvania, shooting 11 students and killing five, all of them girls. When the instructor returned to class a week later, she looked as if she hadn’t slept. She told her students that no one in the Amish community would speak to her—her editor was expecting a story, but she had nothing to work with. Standing behind the lectern, she cried.

To Klett, it seemed that she had absorbed the trauma of the people she was covering. He empathized. As a child, he had on occasion become so deeply engrossed in stories that the boundaries between his life and other people’s blurred. In fourth grade, when he first learned about the Holocaust, he became severely depressed; he knew that his family had German ancestry, and he felt implicated. His mother demanded that Klett stop watching coverage of the O.J. Simpson trial after he confessed to having visions that he was the one who’d murdered Nicole Brown Simpson.

As the semester continued, Klett experienced a familiar muddling of his internal world and external reality. He had considered becoming a journalist but now realized he was ill-equipped to deal with other people’s pain. The future felt uncertain. Klett kept to himself more than ever. He stopped eating and interacting with other students. When a concerned peer told an RA that Klett hadn’t left his room in several days, the college called his parents. Klett never received a clear diagnosis, but doctors prescribed him a long list of pharmaceuticals.

The rest of college passed at a steady, medicated cadence. Klett spent the weekends at home and found his parents overbearing. As a diversion he started a band, the Undercover Rabbis. He met a woman who invited him to live with her and some friends at a winery in Pennsylvania, an offer he accepted after graduating in 2010. The group worked at Whole Foods Market during the day and threw raves at night. Klett used drugs and drank and slept with women and men, all for the first time. He identified as queer, first with trepidation, then with joy—the word itself helped explain why he had always felt so different.

In 2011, Klett received a transfer to work at a Whole Foods in New York City, where he lived for a time in an apartment in Ridgewood, Queens. His grandmother, who had recently died, had left him a small amount of money, which Klett used to pay for an MFA in poetry at the New School. When he wasn’t packing boxes or swiping items through the checkout at Whole Foods, he composed poems that were more controlled than his college writing. His final portfolio, exploring the boundaries between madness and inspiration, intimacy and abuse, was chosen by his professors to be published. “My favorite sex position is the Van Gogh,” one poem begins. “I won’t draw you a picture but it ends with you cutting off my ear / We can only do it twice.”

If Klett was succeeding creatively, his personal life was in disarray. He was trying to leave an abusive relationship and struggling to keep his job. Shortly after graduating, he was fired. He wrote copy for content farms to make rent on a Brooklyn apartment he shared with Martin*, a young housing lawyer and professed Marxist who lectured Klett about the failures of the Obama administration and how the impending Clinton presidency would be more of the same.

Klett listened to Martin, who seemed to know more about political theory than he did. He too felt alienated from what he called “the liberal elite.” But he also remembered the night Obama won the 2008 election. Fireworks outside his college dorm lit up his room, and he could hear spontaneous renditions of “We Shall Overcome” in the hallways. It was a time when Klett was feeling stable, and optimistic about the future. Now he was broke and bored, obsessively following the news and skipping meals. He could feel his reality once again begin to tremble.

When he received the offer from the Epoch Times, which on the surface appeared to offer stability and predictability, along with a regular paycheck, Klett felt a profound sense of relief. It couldn’t have come at a better time.

Klett wrote copy for content farms to make rent on a Brooklyn apartment he shared with  a young housing lawyer and professed Marxist who lectured him about the failures of the Obama administration.

Klett settled into the rhythms of working life. He awoke around 6:30 a.m., switched on MSNBC’s Morning Joe, smoked a joint with Martin, and then headed into the office. He scrolled through his news feeds while drinking a large iced coffee and jotted down story ideas for Fakkert, the digital team’s editor. Fakkert arrived each day at 9 a.m. and squeezed a red stress ball while listening to the day’s pitches.

There were five other journalists on the digital team. A man from Staten Island with tattoos on his arms and contacts at local police precincts; he worked the crime beat. There were two women from Brooklyn, one who had studied journalism and specialized in human-interest stories, and another who covered celebrity gossip and entertainment. A third woman was from Queens; she had previously worked on NBC’s breaking-news desk. Lastly there was Jenna*, a sharp-tongued, perpetually ironic philosophy student who covered science and technology. She and Klett became friends.

Their work was like that of any number of millennials paid to generate content to feed the insatiable appetite of social media. Each team member sat in a small cubicle and churned out content, trying to reach 100,000 clicks per week. It seemed like a huge number, but their bosses assured them it was achievable. The stories they wrote were short and required no original reporting—they were rewrites or pastiches of existing articles and press releases. The work was not particularly absorbing, but the atmosphere in the office was comfortable. After being assigned his stories— “Former Russian World Chess Champion Criticizes Bernie Sanders’s Revolution as ‘Dangerously Absurd,’” “Fox News Poll Gives Hope to Kasich, Discourages Rubio”—Klett would put in his earphones and write as quickly as possible, pausing only to grab a burger or sushi for lunch with Jenna. He headed home at 6 p.m., and prepared for the next day by reading the latest news on social media before going to sleep.

Klett noticed a stark division in the office. The digital team sat together in a small room, apart from the writers, editors, and designers who worked for the print newspaper. The bathroom and kitchen were shared, but the print staff generally kept to themselves. When Klett tried to engage, they were friendly but impersonal. They steered most conversations to the stories he was working on that day.

Whereas the digital team was made up mostly of people who grew up in or around New York, the print staff was geographically diverse, hailing from China, Europe, Canada, and Australia. Many of them seemed to be married to or seeing someone else on staff. They were workaholics, arriving each day before the digital team and leaving well after. Stranger still, many—if not all—of them were followers of Falun Gong.

The relationship between the spiritual movement and the newspaper had been touched upon briefly during the digital team’s orientation. Stephen Gregory, the paper’s publisher—a large, balding man who favored khakis and polo shirts—had explained in a lilting voice how the Epoch Times was founded at the turn of the millennium to inform the world about Falun Gong’s persecution at the hands of the Chinese Communist Party, or CCP. (The new hires were later shown an hour-long film featuring a Chinese man, a Falun Gong practitioner, sitting in a blossom-filled garden talking about how he had escaped to America to live a life of peace.) Gregory said that the paper had since expanded its mission, striving to offer objective, independent reporting on current affairs and world news. While the paper was no longer explicitly connected to Falun Gong, it shared certain values with the movement. These were encapsulated in the Epoch Times’ motto: “Truth and Tradition.”

The digital team was also given a tour of the two floors immediately above the newsroom, which were the headquarters of New Tang Dynasty Television, a cable channel with the same mission as the paper. They were greeted by a senior executive, a Chinese-American man, who guided them to a large room filled floor to ceiling with monitors. The network broadcast programs in dozens of cities around the world, including several in mainland China, where viewers used circumvention tools to bypass firewalls and censors. It was necessary work, the new hires were told. The network had to tell the people of China the truth.

III.

In “golden monkey splitting its body,” the arms form a straight line with the shoulders, stretching toward the horizon on either side of the body. In “two dragons diving into the sea,” the arms reach forward. In “bodhisattva touching the lotus,” the arms are positioned diagonally with the body, hands pointing toward the ground. These movements are part of the recommended hour-long physical routine that many Falun Gong practitioners perform every day. The exercises are serene, deliberate, symmetrical; often they’re done with eyes closed. From New York to Toronto, Sydney to Bangkok, groups of people—many wearing yellow shirts—gather in parks in the early morning to do the movements together.

If you ask a devout Falun Gong practitioner, they might say that the exercises are physical expressions of wisdom dating back to a divine, prehistoric culture, discovered and revived by a spiritually gifted leader to help humanity reconnect with a godly essence. If you ask a historian of China, they’ll likely trace the origins to the 1950s, when the ascendant Communist regime was manufacturing a new national character—one that was modern and scientific, superior to the feudalism of the past, yet still maintained a distinct Chinese identity. Among other things, this immense project demanded a new medical paradigm that preserved traditional healing practices while rejecting their religious and spiritual foundations. Such a paradigm presented itself when a young government clerk wrote a report claiming to have cured himself of various ailments with slow exercises and breathing methods later called qigong, or “energy cultivation.” The report caught the attention of high-ranking officials, who found it useful for their purposes. Medical authorities studied the clerk’s “cultivation system,” as the exercises became known, and used them throughout the late 1950s in specialized clinics and sanatoriums to help people manage pain and sickness.

With the dawning of the Cultural Revolution came a reversal: Qigong was denounced by the state as “feudal superstition.” The government clerk was jailed for being “the creator of the poisonous weed.” The exercise regimen disappeared from public life until the late 1970s, when the paranoia of the “ten-year catastrophe” began to recede.

Qigong experienced a grassroots resurgence in parks throughout Beijing. Amateur teachers who had continued practicing in private during the purges began offering their own particular cultivation systems. State authorities gave tacit approval, and charismatic teachers expanded their followings. By the early 1990s, qigong fever had swept the country. The most popular teachers, or “masters,” became national celebrities. This spurred aspiring spiritual leaders from the provinces to travel to Beijing in the hope of launching their own qigong schools. Among them was Li Hongzhi, who arrived in the capital in 1992 with a cultivation system he called Falun Gong, meaning “the way of the dharma wheel.”

Like other qigong masters, Li had an instinct for self-mythology. He claimed to have been born on the same day as the Buddha and to have been a spiritual prodigy instructed by the most learned Buddhist and Daoist teachers in northeast China. By adolescence, the story went, he had acquired supernatural powers and a lucid comprehension of the ultimate truth of the universe—insight that, as an adult, he synthesized into Falun Gong. His regimen of simple, fluid exercises proved popular, and he rapidly found a following.

What distinguished Li from other qigong teachers were certain spiritual and moral elements he considered necessary for cultivation. In addition to exercises and meditation, Falun Gong demanded personal conduct of its practitioners that was consistent with what Li defined as the three moral axioms of the universe: truth, compassion, and forbearance. He also subscribed to a cyclical view of history, characterized by periods of moral decline followed by apocalyptic redemption. The modern world, Li believed, was in a degenerate state, which manifested itself in popular culture and loose social mores. In long, tangential lectures, he railed against drug use, homosexuality, miscegenation, sexual freedom, and “the demon nature that bursts forth on the soccer field.” He claimed that it was his task to help as many people as possible realize the folly of their ways through Falun Gong, so that when the moment of redemption arrived—and Li asserted that it was coming soon—they would be saved. He called this process “Fa-rectification.”

By 1994, Li had become a major star of the qigong world. His rise, though, came at a moment when the CCP was growing suspicious of qigong’s popularity. Sensing that the cultural tide was turning, Li announced that his mission in China had come to an end. In 1995, he departed for an international lecture tour through Taiwan, Southeast Asia, Europe, and Australia, where his teachings were popular among Chinese diaspora communities and some white New Age types. The tour turned into a permanent relocation. Eventually, Li settled in upstate New York.

In July 1996, China’s Central Propaganda Department banned the publication of Li’s writings, including the Zhuan Falun, the Falun Gong bible. Several newspaper articles accused Li of being a swindler who spread superstition and pseudoscience. From New York, Li connected with practitioners in Beijing on websites and email lists, where he encouraged them to peacefully protest the suppression of their movement. Over the next few years, Falun Gong acolytes staged some 300 demonstrations in China.

The protestors, who often sat cross-legged and silent, were mostly tolerated by the authorities. That changed on a Sunday morning in April 1999, when some 10,000 practitioners gathered outside the Western gate of Zhongnanhai, the guarded compound near Tiananmen Square where the CCP is headquartered. The protestors were quiet and calm, but the intimidating scale of the demonstration unnerved CCP leader Jiang Zemin, who behind closed doors declared Falun Gong the most serious political threat to party authority since the student demonstrations a decade earlier. (Li claimed to have more than 100 million followers at the time; scholars put the figure between 20 million and 60 million.)

State-run media launched a full-scale propaganda war, classifying Falun Gong as a cult posing a danger to the nation. Li rejected the characterization. “We do not oppose the government,” he once said at a conference. “We do not involve ourselves in politics.” The Chinese authorities intensified the crackdown, demanding that government officials who had practiced Li’s cultivation style renounce their affiliation and arresting people considered to be the movement’s key organizers. Falun Gong has since alleged that many of its practitioners were tortured while in custody and that hundreds died as a result. (Some human rights organizations have repeated this claim; Chinese authorities deny it.)

Li largely retreated from the public eye. Falun Gong purchased 427 acres of land in the hills of Deerpark, New York, where it built an expansive, ornate, high-security compound known as Dragon Springs. As well as providing Li with new living quarters, Dragon Springs became a spiritual base for his movement. It has a large temple and is now home to a private high school and college. Over the years, neighboring communities have raised concerns about the compound’s growth. Meanwhile, rumors of abuse and cult-like behavior have circulated, based on testimonials from former Falun Gong practitioners.

The task of defending the movement has fallen largely to North American followers, who unlike their counterparts in China face no risk of imprisonment for their support of Falun Gong. They are often middle-class professionals; many are Chinese immigrants. Among them is John Tang, an émigré with a doctorate in theoretical physics from the Georgia Institute of Technology. In 2000, Tang founded a small newspaper and named it the Epoch Times—a reference, perhaps, to Li’s frequent insistence that the turn of the millennium would bring “a new epoch.”

Li claimed that it was his task to help as many people as possible realize the folly of their ways through Falun Gong, so that when the moment of redemption arrived they would be saved. 

At first the paper was written, edited, and printed by volunteers—Chinese and non-Chinese followers of Li’s teachings, few of whom had any experience in media. It was funded almost exclusively by donations from wealthy Falun Gong practitioners. The goal was to provide an alternative narrative to China’s propaganda about the movement. The first edition, published in Chinese, appeared in May 2000; an online edition followed later that year.

Participating in the media arm of Falun Gong quickly took on a spiritual dimension. Writing or editing for the Epoch Times became an extension of Fa-rectification, the cosmic mission of saving souls. Li made clear that personal cultivation now included acts of hongfa, which roughly means “clarifying truth” to the wider world. But the paper didn’t always get the facts right. In October 2000, it reported that Jiang Zemin had caught a “strange, fatal disease” requiring his leg to be amputated at the upper thigh, a demonstrably false claim. Other stories were murkier. In 2001, after Chinese state media claimed that Li had incited a group of Falun Gong practitioners, including a 12-year-old girl, to self-immolate in Tiananmen Square, the Epoch Times countered by insisting that the event had been staged by Chinese authorities. International media and human rights groups were unable to verify either side’s version, or anything in between. The Washington Post’s attempt to do so produced an article headlined “Human Fire Ignites Chinese Mystery.” The truth of the matter has never been settled.

For the Epoch Times, funding from a growing diaspora of Falun Gong practitioners and other Chinese dissident communities led to explosive growth. By the mid-2000s, it was publishing editions in dozens of cities and several languages around the globe, including an English version in New York. It joined other Falun Gong–associated media outlets, including New Tang Dynasty Television, under the umbrella of the Epoch Media Group. The paper published special editions, such as 2004’s “Nine Commentaries on the Communist Party,” a quasi-McCarthyist screed that claimed the CCP was the real “evil cult,” one that “destroyed traditional culture” and “oppose[d] the universe.” And it promoted any allegation of human rights abuses in China, including regular updates regarding accusations that the government was harvesting organs from thousands of Falun Gong prisoners. (While it is beyond dispute that China has forcibly removed organs from prisoners, it is not clear that Falun Gong believers have ever been singled out for this practice.)

While the newspaper was clearly aligned with Falun Gong’s interests, its senior executives worked to publicly minimize the connection. “The paper’s not owned by Falun Gong, it doesn’t speak for Falun Gong, it doesn’t represent Falun Gong,” Stephen Gregory, who in addition to being the publisher is a longtime Li follower, told an Associated Press reporter in 2007. “It does cover the persecution of Falun Gong in China.” Meanwhile, in online commentary, Li—whose connection to the paper was always kept vague—continued to emphasize the spiritual function of what he called “our media.” In 2009, he delivered an address in the Epoch Times New York newsroom, congratulating the staff for successfully raising awareness of his movement’s struggle and its worldview. He said that they’d had a “major impact in Fa-rectification.”

Staff rarely speak publicly about the newspaper’s affiliation with Falun Gong. Several current and past employees did not reply to my interview requests. Some who did expressed distrust of mainstream media. Those who agreed to speak, including people who worked alongside Klett, preferred to do so anonymously.

On pureinsight.org, a Falun Gong website, I found a testimonial about the experience of working at the Epoch Times, written by someone who referred to himself as a “disciple from New York, USA.” The anonymous writer, who said he began working at the paper in 2012, described waking up at 3 a.m. to distribute 5,000 newspapers across Manhattan, first on foot and later by bicycle. His manager would strap bundles of papers onto his back before he peddled away. Even in the middle of winter, when it was freezing cold and often raining, the writer said he was filled with great joy, knowing that he was on a noble mission.

He eventually moved up at the paper—to the sales department, to editorial, and finally to a digital-side role focused on boosting subscriptions. He confessed to having moments of doubt, wishing for more recognition of his work and questioning the wisdom of his superiors. But they always passed. “I see that in the coming years the amount of work will be daunting as the Epoch Times is expanding across the US and the world,” the disciple wrote. “However, I feel that Master has arranged the wind to be in our sails, and that he is guiding every step in both my and the whole media’s development. As long as I don’t impede Master, there shouldn’t be anything that we can’t do.”

Writing or editing for the Epoch Times became an extension of Fa-rectification, the cosmic mission of saving souls.

By the time Klett was hired, the paper was a purportedly objective outlet with an unconditional bias made obscure to outsiders. One way that bias manifested was in prohibitions on certain content. “Truth and Tradition” meant that reporters could not cover modern music or art, only the classics. Stories about the LGBTQ community were to be avoided—Gregory reportedly told the new digital team that it was a controversial topic that conflicted with the family-friendly position of the paper.

Besides joking about it with Jenna—she liked to say that they’d been hired by a weird cult—Klett didn’t think much about Falun Gong or how it shaped his job. It wasn’t his goal to empathize with the movement’s belief system, which, as far as he could tell, was at odds with his own. He just wanted to reach his weekly target of 100,000 clicks.

Klett achieved this convenient detachment through an intellectual sleight of hand. In college, he’d read postmodern theories by thinkers who seemed to drive a wedge between language and meaning—to insist that words had a multiplicity of possible interpretations that exceeded the intentions of any author or speaker. Klett, who in conversations with me made reference more than once to the French philosopher Jacques Derrida, imagined himself as a kind of postmodern information worker: He generated “content” the meaning and significance of which had nothing to do with him. It was a formal exercise, one that he was getting better at every day.

A contemporary of Klett’s preferred theorists was Paul de Man, a Belgian national who was a professor of literature at Yale. His controversial, yet influential, thesis held that a text was a paradox no one should seek to resolve; language always contained contradictions, and it was the task of the reader to identify them while resisting the impulse to privilege one interpretation over another. When it was revealed in the years after his death that, during World War II, de Man had written some 200 articles for several Nazi-controlled newspapers—and that some of what he’d published had been anti-Semitic—his acolytes were forced to reckon with his legacy. Some disavowed him. Others tried to redeem him with evidence of good behavior; they pointed out, for instance, that de Man sheltered Jewish friends in his apartment during the war. Derrida went one step further: On close reading, he argued, de Man’s writings revealed a subversive, anti-anti-Semitic interpretation.

For his longtime critics, the disclosure of de Man’s past was vindicating. By reveling in contradiction, they argued, de Man had adopted an essentially nihilistic mode of critique. As one writer put it, he was a “connoisseur of nothingness”—a phrase that could easily apply to Klett during his stint at the Epoch Times.

Still, there were moments that rattled Klett. On June 12, 2016, a gunman opened fire at the Pulse nightclub in Orlando, Florida, killing 49 people and wounding 53 others. The story broke over the weekend. When Klett arrived at work Monday morning, he noticed that none of the accounts of the incident on the Epoch Times’ website mentioned that Pulse was a gay club. He strategized how he could pitch a story to his editors that acknowledged the facts while bypassing the newspaper’s vague prohibition against covering LGBTQ issues.

That day he was working with an editor named Henry Bevington, a perpetually chipper Australian man with a wispy black beard who wore paisley button-down shirts. Bevington brought Klett tea each morning, pouring it from a red kettle. He was more visible in his allegiance to Falun Gong than some other staff; he once came to work dressed in the movement’s trademark yellow T-shirt after attending a demonstration to raise awareness about persecution in China. Klett realized Bevington might be wedded to the values that determined the paper’s coverage.

Klett pitched a story about the shooting that focused on a speech that Trump, who was still seeking the Republican nomination, had made in the aftermath. Trump split with other Republicans by expressing solidarity with the LGBTQ community. Klett figured that because Trump’s stance on other issues was conservative, the approach might work. Plus, stories Klett had written about Trump had generated a lot of clicks, including one about a Mexican restaurant owner who tripled her business after Trump brought her onstage at a rally. But Klett received a curt no.

Usually, he might have complained to Jenna about the incident and moved on. But he felt pained by the attack on the LGBTQ community, and angry that it hadn’t been acknowledged at his workplace. He sent Fakkert and Bevington an article from a left-leaning blog pointing out how some Republican responses to the shooting had erased the identities of the people targeted. According to Klett, Bevington approached his desk and, with a smile, told him that he didn’t understand the point of the article. “Some people don’t believe in that,” Bevington said, seeming to refer to homosexuality. “You can’t fault someone for not saying something.”

Klett excused himself, walked to the bathroom, and splashed cold water on his face. When he returned to his desk, he sat down and started writing an article about the Orlando shooting that didn’t include the word “gay.” It focused on how, in the wake of the tragedy, President Barack Obama hadn’t used the phrase “radical Islam.”

That words could have multiple, sometimes contradictory interpretations was an idea Klett had found fascinating in a theoretical context. It had been useful in his studies and personal writing. Now, though, it seemed as if he was being asked to use that idea to make real-world events seem uncertain, contested. In retrospect, it was a harbinger of what was to come.

IV.

By the time Trump became the Republican nominee, in the late summer of 2016, the digital team had morphed. Jenna had been laid off for failing to generate sufficient clicks; the reporter who covered crime had been let go, too. Klett, meanwhile, had been promoted. Now earning an extra $500 a month, he wrote his usual number of digital stories as well as the occasional feature for the print newspaper.

When Trump promoted the outrageous lie that Obama and Hillary Clinton were “founders” of ISIS, Klett wrote a story without critical evaluation; the fact of Trump’s comments, rather than their veracity, was what mattered. This seemed more or less in keeping with the Epoch Times’ professed commitment to unbiased coverage and its desire to ramp up page views—inflammatory comments by public figures drive clicks, after all. Other developments, however, made it hard to ignore that an unspoken enthusiasm for the Republican candidate had taken hold in the newsroom. There had been a palpable shift in the paper’s editorial direction, and it seemed to come straight from the top.

While other media outlets reported on Trump’s outlandish and incendiary Twitter behavior, Klett said that his editors discouraged him from covering it. After submitting a story comparing Trump’s and Clinton’s immigration policies, he received an email with feedback from Stephen Gregory; it was important, the publisher explained, to note that Trump was the only candidate addressing the fact that an “open border” allowed gangs, criminals, and terrorists to enter the country. Overall, Gregory said, Clinton’s policies would amplify the power of the executive branch and diminish that of Congress, continuing the legacy of Obama’s presidency.

In another instance, Klett was asked to read over a colleague’s story comparing Trump’s and Clinton’s economic policies. There was one line that caught his attention: “Trump seeks to revive American greatness with policies aimed at kick-starting economic growth.” Klett told his colleague that the word “greatness” was biased and a regurgitation of Trump’s campaign slogan. The colleague, according to Klett, said that Gregory had inserted the line.

Klett noticed that a number of journalists from the print side—mostly young men who practiced Falun Gong and had worked at the paper for a while—were becoming more brazen in their support of far-right ideas. One colleague shared a video by internet pundit Stefan Molyneux, whose YouTube channel promoted scientific racism and white nationalism. Echoing boilerplate language from the right-wing internet, staff said they didn’t necessarily believe everything they circulated in the office, but at least it was an alternative to the lies propagated by mainstream outlets. With blithe arrogance, most U.S. media used the cover of objectivity to conceal liberal bias. Truth tellers—like themselves, even like Molyneux—were pushing against this hegemony, courageously pursuing fair reporting and highlighting ideas that the corrupt media elite would not.

A number of journalists from the print side—mostly young men who practiced Falun Gong and had worked at the paper for a while—were becoming more brazen in their support of far-right ideas. 

Maybe it shouldn’t have been surprising, given its roots, that the Epoch Times would employ people suspicious of establishment forces, or that its socially conservative ethos would make it a natural mouthpiece for Trumpism. Nor, perhaps, should it have shocked anyone that the paper, created with the explicit goal of waging an information war, would thrive in a propaganda-rich election season rife with conspiracy theories. Still, given its affiliation with Falun Gong, the outfit was something of an unexpected player in the right-wing media ecosystem emboldened by Trump’s candidacy. Where its role made the most sense was with regard to China. The paper boosted Trump’s pledges to get tough on Beijing if he was elected. An article Klett wrote about the Trans-Pacific Partnership, which Trump wanted to leave and Clinton wanted to strengthen, was syndicated by Infowars.

Klett discussed with his parents the option of quitting. They told him that just because the work was difficult wasn’t a reason to leave, that the time had come for him to accept the reality of adult life, that it would show strength of character to persevere under challenging circumstances. He also discussed his dilemma with Martin, his roommate. At the time, Martin was using his law degree to represent landlords in the Bronx. Just as Klett disliked writing pro-Trump propaganda for a fringe newspaper, Martin didn’t want to evict families from their homes. That millennials had to do work at odds with their political values wasn’t their fault; it was a sign of a fundamental failure of “the system,” Martin insisted, proof of how neoliberal hegemony and late-stage capitalism destroyed the soul. A political revolution was necessary.

This made sense to Klett, and helped him justify going to work every day. He also found it difficult to quit the paper because of how nice everyone in the office was, how misaligned their personal conduct seemed with their political motivations. His editors were helpful, attentive, supportive. They often congratulated him on the work he was doing and rewarded him with longer-form assignments, sometimes even front-page features in the print paper. They knew that he didn’t necessarily share their views, but they were convinced of the basic goodness of their mission and, it seemed to Klett, assumed he’d eventually come around.

Perhaps that’s why, on September 15, 2016, Fakkert asked him to attend a speech Trump was giving to the Economic Club of New York at the Waldorf Astoria hotel. Klett arrived at 9:30 a.m., stoned, wearing a vest and a magenta shirt—Fakkert had told him to dress nicely. He met Valentin Schmid, a journalist from the print side. They were ushered to an upstairs press gallery where a few dozen journalists sat staring at their phones. The attendees in the ballroom were dressed in tuxedos and ball gowns—extravagant, Klett thought, for a lunch event. After taking their seats, the guests were served plates of chicken.

Mike Pence appeared on the ballroom’s stage, gave a brief address about economic prosperity, and then introduced Trump. The candidate spoke of his strong polling numbers in Florida, North Carolina, and Ohio, about jobs and manufacturing, immigration, the failures of the Obama administration, and, finally, the corporate tax cuts he was planning to roll out. Klett noticed that Schmid was the only journalist who clapped along with the crowd, prompting other reporters to look at him incredulously, which made Klett feel paranoid.

After the event, Schmid took Klett out for lunch at a bistro on 57th Street. Schmid, who was from Germany, wore polo shirts with upturned collars and had a lazy eye. He was among the coterie of young men on the print side who had taken a liking to Trump and his messaging. As they sat eating—Klett a burger, his colleague a steak—Schmid held forth about why Trump appealed to his libertarian sensibilities. To him, Trump was unafraid to speak the truth. The people who feared him most were those in the liberal mainstream media and political elites accustomed to pulling the strings of power in their own favor.

Klett had heard all this before—talk of absorbing bullshit from a broken system before seeing the light, recognizing who the real villains are. He knew that many on the print side were seekers, people who had been on tumultuous, sometimes strange personal journeys before finding Falun Gong and, through that, the Epoch Times. Some had lived in hippie communes. Others had partied as a way to distract themselves from their inner dissatisfaction. In a way, Klett thought, they were not unlike other people from his life: fellow loners in college, the queer community in Pennsylvania, the poetry freaks at the New School, the leftists he met in Brooklyn bars, his roommate. They all felt alienated from reality and wanted a radical change.

Schmid asked Klett about his own political ideology. Klett said he didn’t really have a coherent one, but that he had anarchist leanings. “Aha, so you want what I want,” Schmid replied, taking a bite of his steak. “I want to tear down the system, like you.”

V.

Around then, in September, a group of interns arrived at the Epoch Times. One afternoon, Klett walked into the kitchen to find one of the new arrivals busy on her laptop. She was tall, with straight black hair tied up in a bun; a single blue streak matched the color of her eyeshadow. Klett introduced himself. She looked up and, in a heavy accent, said her name was Gaia Cristofaro. She had just arrived from Italy and was interning with the newspaper’s design team. Klett said that he wrote about politics for the digital side. She said that she didn’t like politics. “Nobody does,” he replied.

Three days later, he again crossed paths with her in the kitchen and decided to sit down for a longer chat. Often he found conversations with people from the print side awkward. Not with Cristofaro. They spoke about art and music and literature. Both had strong opinions about Derrida and Franz Kafka. Both listened to the band Thee Silver Mt. Zion. Both admired the paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder. Cristofaro showed Klett some of the sketches she was working on for the design team. He was impressed. He found her captivating.

They started taking lunch breaks together. Cristofaro—who did not respond to multiple interview requests for this story—was 33 and an artist. She had grown up in Florence, right by the Duomo. She had been rebellious in her younger years, but it left her feeling discontented and lost. She came across one of Li’s books. She had been raised Catholic, and the strict morality and spiritual teleology of Falun Gong resonated with her, as did Li’s supposition that the modern world was degenerate. Cristofaro had since maintained a strict cultivation practice and given much of her spare time to the Falun Gong community. She had organized an art exhibition in Florence on behalf of the movement. And now she was in New York, ready to help in the service of hongfa, before one of the most unusual elections in U.S. history—one in which the candidate the Epoch Times had all but endorsed was turning the very notion of truth on its head.

At lunch one day, Klett noticed that Cristofaro had not touched any of her cucumber sushi. She had dark circles around her eyes, and her hands were shaking. Klett asked if everything was OK. Cristofaro apologized. She hadn’t got much rest, she said, since arriving in the city. Her work schedule—Monday through Friday, 6 a.m. to 7 p.m.—on top of exercise, meditation, and reading groups with other Epoch Times employees, meant that she had almost no time to herself. Moreover, the room where she was staying in Jersey City, which had been assigned to her by the newspaper, was in the same building where other staff lived. It was more like a big dorm than an apartment complex, she said. She found it uncomfortable and dirty. There was no privacy. She couldn’t sleep.

To make matters worse, Cristofaro had initially been promised that she’d contribute illustrations to the paper, but her superiors now insisted that she work on formatting and other menial tasks. Cristofaro put her head in her hands. “What am I doing here?” she asked Klett.

Cristofaro and Klett began to meet outside work hours. One Sunday, she told him that she was in the United States on a vacation visa and that she wasn’t being paid for her time at the paper. According to Klett, Cristofaro said that uncompensated work was common among Falun Gong practitioners—a claim echoed in news reports and first-person accounts by former acolytes that I read during my reporting. Believers could volunteer at one of the many organizations around the world associated with the movement: an Epoch Times bureau, New Tang Dynasty Television, a magazine called Taste of Life, or the Shen Yun dance company, which is based at the Dragon Springs compound and infamous in New York City for its ubiquitous advertising. Cristofaro had done other internships and enjoyed them, but so far this one had been mostly unpleasant.

Klett wanted to help but didn’t know how. His colleagues on the digital team teased him that he was moving over to the dark side. “Just watch out, or she’ll make you join that group,” one told him. On a Friday afternoon, as Klett was getting ready to clock out, Fakkert asked for a minute of his time. He said that Klett was spending too much time exchanging messages with Cristofaro on the office’s internal chat system. They needed to focus more on their work.

After the encounter, Klett asked Cristofaro who else knew about their friendship. She said that her immediate boss and maybe one other colleague did. Later she sent Klett a message. “Now that I think about it better,” it read, an editor “told me not talk with you too much, he said that very casually.”

“Ciao have a good weekend,” Cristofaro said, “and forget about that.”

Cristofaro had been raised Catholic, and the strict morality and spiritual teleology of Falun Gong resonated with her, as did Li’s supposition that the modern world was degenerate.

Klett decided to keep his distance from Cristofaro in the office. Outside work, however, they saw each other more often. One day in October, they went to Radio City Music Hall to see the Icelandic group Sigur Rós perform. They arrived at the venue early and took their seats. When the music started—ethereal, ambient—they kissed for the first time. Over the next two weeks, they hung out in bars in the West Village after work. As they talked about their lives, or when they kissed by the station where Cristofaro caught a train back to Jersey City, she would remind Klett that she was leaving in November, when her visa expired.

Everything was hurtling toward November. When he wasn’t with Cristofaro or thinking about her, Klett was ensconced in political news and polls. Every time Trump made a shocking new claim—the system is rigged, Hillary is sick, what about her emails?—Klett would observe as the mainstream media reacted with disbelief. This is not America, he heard liberal pundits say. Wasn’t it, though? Plenty of people reading his articles were Americans who liked Trump. It seemed to Klett that divisions ran so deep in America’s collective psyche that one side could no longer see the other.

Living and working amid so much bifurcation was exhausting. Klett was looking forward to the time after the election when things would return to normal. But then, in the last week of October, something changed in the office. Without warning, Fakkert began ignoring the digital team, not hearing their pitches or assigning them articles. They went from pumping out several pieces a day to more or less sitting idle at their desks.

On October 27, the HR manager summoned them into a small office. He told the group sympathetically that digital journalism was more difficult to break into than the paper had first imagined. Other publications were laying people off. The Epoch Times simply couldn’t afford to keep the team on any longer. Their employment was being terminated.

Based on the paper’s web traffic, this didn’t immediately add up to Klett. What’s more, the election was only a week away—it seemed absurd that the paper would get rid of him, a politics reporter. Klett wondered if there was another reason the team was being let go, one he couldn’t see.

He walked out of the room in a daze. Standing there was Fakkert, who took him by the shoulders and cried. Klett started to laugh.

The election was only a week away—it seemed absurd that the paper would get rid of him, a politics reporter.

The next week passed in a blur. Klett watched the news and checked the latest polls, now without purpose. He messaged Cristofaro, trying to arrange times to see her, but she was always caught up with work or cultivation. Finally, in early November, Klett received a text inviting him to dinner in Chelsea. It was her going-away party. She was leaving the next day.

When Klett arrived at the restaurant, Cristofaro was already there with a few other Epoch Times employees and a man she had befriended in a park while doing Falun Gong exercises. They ate pizza and then got gelato. The man from the park did most of the talking, spouting conspiracy theories that he said he’d learned about from Infowars.

Eventually, Klett and Cristofaro walked to the Strand bookstore, then to a movie. Afterward, Klett accompanied Cristofaro to her train. They kissed. He asked if she would consider coming back to his place, to spend one night together. She said no. She told Klett that he wasn’t “virtuous” enough. Cristofaro had hinted before that it was somehow immoral for them to spend time together, that it contravened a code of behavior expected of her by Falun Gong. If Klett wasn’t a practitioner, they couldn’t be together.

Three nights later, with Cristofaro back in Florence, Klett opened a bottle of wine with Martin and sat down to watch the election results. Despite everything he’d seen as a politics reporter—from the shrewd manipulation of content at the Epoch Times, to the devious fearmongering at Breitbart News, to the full-blown conspiracy peddling of Infowars—he still believed that Clinton would win. As he watched the results trickle in, he realized his error. Martin opened another bottle of wine. “Goddammit, I don’t want to have to see Donald Trump’s fucking face for the next four years,” he said.

Klett was silent. He told himself this wasn’t his fault—he was just a lowly worker at an obscure newspaper that had a curious affiliation with the rise of Trumpism. He felt a familiar sensation, one he’d had when he worried about his family’s German ancestry and saw himself holding the knife used to kill Nicole Brown Simpson. Reality was wobbling. But whether Klett was ready to admit it or not, this time his imagination wasn’t to blame. By writing the news, he had become part of the story.

VI.

Klett was unemployed until the following June, when he was hired by the International Business Times. Again he was a digital content writer, required to generate as many articles as possible to get as many clicks as possible. Coincidentally, IBT had been linked to a controversial religious sect known as the Community, a fact that Klett wasn’t aware of when he was hired. In a corner cubicle near Wall Street, he trawled Twitter looking for trending news he could repackage for the website—a celebrity feud, Martin Shkreli controversies, Trump’s Twitter meltdowns. His performance was measured by software called Chartbeat, which his editor monitored assiduously. Klett told me that he was fired after six weeks for not meeting his click quota.

He found a job writing copy for a vaping company. At the time, he was also working on his second poetry collection, The Book of Gaia. After saying goodbye to Cristofaro in early November, Klett thought they’d never speak again. But she’d messaged him the next morning—a cell phone video shot from her plane as it took off, Manhattan receding into the clouds. They’d been texting and making plans to see one another ever since. After a few months, Klett had accrued enough miles on his credit card for a trip to Italy. In September 2017, he boarded a plane, shaking and giddy. It was his first time traveling to Europe.

Klett stayed with Cristofaro in her mother’s apartment in Florence. They took long walks, and Cristofaro was knowledgeable about the city’s heritage. She was also angry at what she perceived as intruding vulgarities—commercialism, tourism, even contemporary art. One afternoon, as they passed the Duomo, Cristofaro stopped in front of the cathedral and wept. It was offensive, she said, that people would simply gawk and take pictures of the building without understanding its context.

Klett learned about Cristofaro’s daily Falun Gong cultivation practice. She meditated at six-hour intervals—dawn, midday, dusk, midnight. He would sit with her and hold her hands while she did it. The thought occurred to him that if he started practicing Falun Gong, their relationship would deepen. “Why don’t you just do it?” a friend asked him. “You could have it all!”

It wasn’t an option, though. Klett didn’t want cosmic answers for everything in his life, and he didn’t like cultivation. He had become more politically active since leaving the Epoch Times. He now volunteered with the Democratic Socialists of America. There was no way he could square his political beliefs or his identity with Falun Gong, even for the person he loved.

Klett worked up the courage to ask Cristofaro how she reconciled the supposed morality of Falun Gong with what she said had happened in New York, the way she’d been exploited at work. She said that she felt like some people in the newspaper office had been corrupted by America, that they had lost their way and were no longer engaging dutifully with Li’s teachings. Klett suggested that maybe Falun Gong had lost its way. Cristofaro became angry and, through tears, told him that as a non-practitioner he had no idea what he was talking about.

Despite the disagreement with Cristofaro, after arriving back in New York, Klett began planning for a return to Italy. He saved money and enrolled in an English-teaching course, hoping to find work in Florence. But then, just a week before Klett was set to fly back in February 2018, Cristofaro told him that she’d changed her mind; she was seeing someone else. It was best if he didn’t come.

In a corner cubicle near Wall Street, Klett trawled Twitter looking for trending news he could repackage for the website—a celebrity feud, Martin Shkreli controversies, Trump’s Twitter meltdowns.

Klett retreated into himself. He worked from home, writing for the vaping company. In his spare time, he read about the Mueller investigation. He began imagining himself back at the Epoch Times as a bot, mindlessly churning out words that became tangled in algorithms that pushed disinformation. When Klett published a blog post on Medium about his experience at the newspaper, he expected it to go mostly unnoticed.

In the spring of 2019, however, he received a message from an investigative journalist at NBC who wanted to talk to him about what he’d written. Klett agreed to meet at the NBC office in Manhattan. By coincidence, the appointment was scheduled on World Falun Gong Day. When Klett got off the train at 47th Street, he found himself surrounded by practitioners marching in celebration. Among the sea of yellow shirts, Klett thought he spotted Valentin Schmid. He lowered his head and made his way into the halls of NBC.

A few months later, NBC News published an online exposé about the Epoch Times’ rise as a right-wing media outlet. It revealed the paper’s massive spending on pro-Trump Facebook ads. It also identified employees who had splintered off to create hugely popular YouTube channels, including Edge of Wonder, which had hundreds of thousands of subscribers. The channel’s upbeat hosts pushed the QAnon conspiracy theory with a smile. Klett recognized them from the paper’s print side.

The NBC investigation wasn’t the first to describe the relationship between the Epoch Times and far-right forces. In 2017, a journalist went undercover at the paper’s Berlin office and found strong support for Alternative for Germany, the country’s nationalist party. The next fall, BuzzFeed News detailed how the paper had pushed the debunked “Spygate” conspiracy theory, which proposed that the Obama administration had infiltrated Trump’s presidential campaign. Then, in May 2019, the progressive nonprofit Acronym identified the Epoch Times as one of the biggest spenders on pro-Trump video content on Facebook.

The NBC investigation went further, emphasizing the connection between the Epoch Times’ political bias and Falun Gong’s apocalyptic worldview. “Former practitioners of Falun Gong told NBC News that believers think the world is headed toward a judgment day, where those labeled ‘communists’ will be sent to a kind of hell, and those sympathetic to the spiritual community will be spared,” the article read. “Trump is viewed as a key ally in the anti-communist fight.”

Stephen Gregory published an op-ed in The Wall Street Journal describing NBC’s reporting as “agenda-driven journalism” that was “in line with Beijing’s propaganda.” He claimed that the Facebook ads in question weren’t pro-Trump—they merely spotlighted the newspaper’s work in order to boost subscriptions. “Because we’ve taken the lead in reporting on Spygate … these ads often feature articles reporting on President Trump. That doesn’t make them ads for Mr. Trump,” Gregory wrote. He denied any direct connection between Falun Gong and his newspaper. Klett noticed that some of his former colleagues took to social media to say that no one accused The New York Times of being a Jewish newspaper despite the many Jewish people on staff. (An Epoch Times contributor made similar comments to me in an interview.)

The newspaper started running online ads under the auspices of entities with names like Pure American Journalism and Best News. This went against Facebook’s transparency rules, and in August 2019, the platform banned the Epoch Times from advertising. The paper found other avenues to spread its message. A website called the BL, or Beauty of Life, created a network of phony Facebook profiles, including some with computer-generated faces, which were used to amplify the reach of pro-Trump content. Gregory denied ties between the BL and the Epoch Times, but in December 2019, Facebook told the technology news website The Verge that BL executives “were active admins on Epoch Media Group Pages as recently as this morning when their accounts were deactivated and the BL was removed.”

Meanwhile, at least one news report suggested that the paper’s digital media strategy was influenced by Chris Kitze, an entrepreneur who a decade prior essentially invented the idea of using conspiracy theories to generate viral content with his website BeforeItsNews.com. Kitze happened to be a longtime Falun Gong practitioner.

VII.

There is a slogan inscribed on the main gate of the western wall of Zhongnanhai: “Long live the great Chinese Communist Party.” After 10,000 Falun Gong devotees gathered in protest next to the compound in 1999, China scholars and observers had to wonder: Where did this spiritual movement, which claimed millions of followers in a country that demanded faith only in the ruling party, come from?

One explanation, according to some historians, was that Falun Gong was best understood as a modern incarnation of the White Lotus society, a secretive Buddhist sect that emerged within Chinese peasant communities in the 14th century. Its adherents, said to practice esoteric rites under the cover of night, were considered religious zealots who prophesied the imminent arrival of a messianic bodhisattva who would usher in an era of universal enlightenment. When news of the White Lotus reached the ruling class, the group was deemed a cult. Its rituals were banned, forcing the White Lotus underground. Practicing became a political act, radicalizing segments of society that went on to participate in the bloody rebellions that brought down the Yuan Empire. Over subsequent centuries, fearing the populist power of the spiritual movement, imperial forces responded to reports of White Lotus activities with claims that the group was evil and dangerous.

The hypothesis offered by some of the first scholars of Falun Gong, and repeated by Western media, was that the conflict between Li’s followers and the CCP was, in essence, another cycle in the long history of state versus cult. When I began reporting this story, that struck me as a good framework for understanding Falun Gong and its motivations. But then I found the work of Barend ter Haar, a Dutch professor of Chinese history and religion. He believes that it’s possible much of the primary documentation about the White Lotus—police inquiries, court proceedings, reports, even individual confessions—was fabricated by ruling forces. In other words, the White Lotus might be a myth used by the elite to strike fear into the public and, when convenient, to inculpate political dissidents in a nefarious cabal. It might be fake news.

While reading ter Haar’s research, I felt something akin to the sensation Klett had described, of reality wobbling. It wasn’t the first time a factual bedrock seemed to fall away in my reporting. Researching Falun Gong and the Epoch Times was like holding a sieve. I would establish what I thought was true, only to find enough contradictory information to raise a doubt in my mind. Facts were hard to distinguish from ideological constructions. The layers of spin and myth seemed endless.

I wanted a concrete truth, however tangential or unlikely, to round out my reporting. On a warm Friday evening in late June 2020, Klett pulled up outside my apartment building in a dark blue Toyota Sienna. I got in the back, pushing aside empty cardboard boxes and coffee cups. Klett introduced me to his girlfriend, Arielle, who was sitting up front. He apologized for being late; he had just clocked out at his job delivering pharmaceuticals around Brooklyn, which he’d picked up at the start of the year to earn some extra money. It had been deemed essential work as COVID-19 rippled through the neighborhoods he served.

The pandemic had been a boon for the Epoch Times. When the coronavirus first hit, the paper ratcheted up its anti-China content. It was among the first outlets to spread the story that COVID-19—“the CCP virus,” as the paper dubbed it—was bioengineered and released from a Wuhan research laboratory. In April, the paper unveiled a 54-minute documentary on a subsidiary YouTube channel, “exposing” the “origin of the CCP virus.” It also produced an eight-page special edition entitled “How the Chinese Communist Party Endangered the World” and sent it unsolicited to tens of thousands of mailboxes in the United States, Canada, and Australia. On July 4, it would publish an article promoting the practice of Falun Gong as an antidote to pandemic-induced stress.

Klett and I had been speaking on the phone at night, nailing down the details of his story. He seemed less interested in the Epoch Times’ pandemic propaganda or the impact of his work at the newspaper than in whether there really was a compound in New Jersey where Falun Gong housed overworked acolytes. I had found an online testimonial that described “dorms” provided for practitioners working at the Epoch Times. I asked Klett if he had any way of determining the location of Cristofaro’s old apartment. He had a vague sense that it was near Journal Square in Jersey City. He also had an idea: What if we waited outside the newspaper’s office in Manhattan and, when an employee came out, followed them home?

That’s what we set out to do that Friday. After crossing the Brooklyn Bridge into Manhattan, we approached an exit to Chinatown. Klett pointed to a large billboard featuring a woman leaping into the air, her legs in a split and parallel to the ground, white skirt fanned out against a bright shade of emerald. The copy read, “2020 Shen Yun. 5,000 years of civilization reborn.”

“It’s like I can’t escape them,” Klett said.

We identified two young employees—both wearing cream-colored chinos and blue shirts, with Epoch Times lanyards around their necks—emerging from the newspaper’s office on 28th Street and 7th Avenue. We followed them to New Jersey. In Hoboken, we saw them enter a three-story apartment building. I checked the names on the mailboxes. Nothing stood out. A cardboard box left outside held a dozen secondhand books about Frank Sinatra, including His Way, an unauthorized biography that claimed to go “behind the iconic myth of Sinatra to expose the well-hidden side of one of the most celebrated—and elusive—public figures of our time.”

If a compound for Epoch Times staff existed, this wasn’t it.

As we drove back to Brooklyn, fireworks exploded overhead. There had been a relentless barrage for the past few weeks, colorful explosions beginning each night at sundown and not letting up until early morning. Some New Yorkers were frustrated by the disturbances, while others speculated about their origin in increasingly conspiratorial terms.

Arielle said that she had read—on Twitter somewhere—that there was a man in a white SUV driving around neighborhoods handing out fireworks to young kids. Setting them off was intended to cause chaos and push civilians into a heightened state of alert to prepare for an upcoming military takeover. I stayed silent. Klett laughed.

“At this point,” he said. “I’d believe anything.”

The Epoch Times was among the first outlets to spread the story that COVID-19—“the CCP virus,” as the paper dubbed it—was bioengineered and released from a Wuhan research laboratory.

It’s hard not to empathize—at least to some degree—with Klett’s credulity. We live in a world where a kaleidoscope of information sources compete for our attention, making truth seem relative and waking life feel like an epistemic free-for-all. Journalists have unwittingly promoted or generated propaganda. In September, reports emerged that the Russian troll farm known as the Internet Research Agency had hired U.S. reporters to contribute content to a site targeting left-leaning voters with misinformation.  

Trust is eroding, ambivalence is soaring, and, for many people, seeking is becoming a steady state of being. For some, like Klett, detachment—from responsibility, from consequences, from facts—is a defense mechanism. But what does that mean for questions of rightness and moral conviction? Often they are sidelined by apathy and languish, unanswered.

The ultimate beneficiaries are ideologues and megalomaniacs willing to manipulate people’s grasp on reality, along with the opportunists who glom onto their rise. The Epoch Times is an example of the latter: It has capitalized on Trumpism, hoping to promote its versions of truth and tradition and to tip the balance of power in Falun Gong’s information war with Beijing. In a sense, the paper is succeeding. In June, the State Department released a statement designating the U.S. operations of China Central Television, China News Service, the People’s Daily, and the Global Times “foreign missions.” It continued, “While Western media are beholden to the truth, PRC media are beholden to the Chinese Communist Party.” Meanwhile, the Epoch Times was cozier than ever with the Trump administration. Its reporters received special treatment in press briefings, alongside alternative outlets like Gateway Pundit and One America News. In Falun Gong’s decades-long quest for Fa-rectification, there is arguably no more resounding success than having the attention of the White House.

By the end of the summer, a paywall ad promised that, for $77 a year, the Epoch Times’ online subscribers would “get real news other outlets don’t report” from “one of the few media that report factually on President Donald Trump.” As of this writing, the paper routinely mixes pro-Trump messages with anti-China ones. Its daily email newsletter has implied more than once that Democratic presidential nominee Joe Biden might be in league with the CCP for his family’s own business interests. Trump, meanwhile, is portrayed as committed to protecting America from China’s influence.

Many editions of the newsletter feature glowing quotes from subscribers in praise of the outlet’s mission and values. After witnessing “the contempt for America and its people [that] oozes from mainstream news sources,” one woman says, the Epoch Times “restored my faith in journalism.” Another quote describes the newspaper as “the bible of journalism.”

“Thank God for the TET,” it concludes, “providing truth in a world blinded by fake news.”


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The Pretender

THE PRETENDER

People in Blooming Prairie, Minnesota, thought Lois Riess was a nice wife and grandmother. If she had a vice, it was playing the slots. Then she committed murder.

By John Rosengren

The Atavist Magazine, No. 107


John Rosengren is a journalist based in Minneapolis who has written for more than 100 publications, including The Atlantic, Sports Illustrated, and The Washington Post Magazine. He is the author of nine books, including Hank Greenberg: The Hero of Heroes.

Editor: Seyward Darby
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Nina Zweig
Illustrator: Jennifer Dionisio

Published in September 2020.

Part One

On the evening of Friday, March 23, 2018, the police department in Blooming Prairie, Minnesota, dispatched two officers to check on a man named Dave Riess. They drove up a winding dirt drive to a modest tan rambler. The house was dark. So too was the long, low-slung building, located about 50 paces from the front door, where Dave raised fishing bait at the Prairie Wax Worm Farm.

None of Dave’s employees nor his business partner had seen or talked to him for almost two weeks. He hadn’t picked up or returned their calls. They had received responses to texts, but Dave usually dictated his messages, which made the words run together. These replies used punctuation.

Stranger still, Dave was supposed to have left for a fishing tournament in Illinois on Tuesday, March 20. He would have taken his white Cadillac Escalade, which was what he typically used to pull his 20-foot-long boat. But on Thursday, two worm-farm employees saw Lois, Dave’s wife of 35 years, pull out of the driveway in the Escalade. They hadn’t seen her since.

Concern soon escalated to alarm, and the employees called the police.

Blooming Prairie is a blink of a town in southeastern Minnesota. It’s a stop along the railroad tracks that run parallel to U.S. Highway 218, surrounded by vast fields of corn and soybeans. There’s a two-block Main Street of brick buildings, with storefronts that include B-Z Hardware, Farmers & Merchants State Bank, and J & H Liquors. A neat grid of quiet streets about a mile and a half square contain mostly single-story houses. Blooming Prairie is a town of about 1,900 people who leave their front doors unlocked and know each other by their first names. It’s not a place steeped in intrigue. At least it wasn’t.

The Riesses’ home was in the country—a mile south on 218, past six massive grain bins that sat on the edge of town. The night the police visited was dark and cold, with snow still on the ground. No one answered the door. The two officers walked around the house’s perimeter and noticed light coming from an open bathroom window. One hoisted up the other to peer inside. He spotted what appeared to be a body covered with a blanket.

The cops summoned two deputies from the Dodge County Sheriff’s Office, who went inside the house. They found Dave Riess on the floor. He had been shot twice with a .22 handgun—once in the chest, once in the back. A bullet had pierced clean through his forearm, suggesting that he had raised it to protect himself. He’d been dead for ten days, maybe longer. His body had started to marble, bloat, and decompose.

Ask anyone in Blooming Prairie and they’ll tell you that Dave was a jovial guy. Quick with a tip on a fishing spot. Generous with his employees. Loved to tell stories. Made up funny songs. But his laugh left the biggest impression. The rumble in his throat built to an eruption that shook his husky frame. Soon you were laughing, too, maybe without even realizing why. Being around Dave just felt good.

“He was my best buddy,” Jerry Bissell, a Blooming Prairie resident, told me recently. “Every day I go by their house, I wonder what the hell happened up there.” To find out, law enforcement had to answer another question: What the hell happened to Lois Riess?

Blooming Prairie is a town of about 1,900 people who leave their front doors unlocked and know each other by their first names. It’s not a place steeped in intrigue. At least it wasn’t.

South Padre Island is a narrow strip of land in the Gulf of Mexico at the southernmost tip of Texas. It’s a popular vacation spot for families and retirees. On April 9, 2018, a middle-aged woman with long blond hair checked into the island’s Motel 6, a white complex with blue doors. She requested an out-of-the-way room and paid cash in advance for a week’s stay.

Two days later, in the early afternoon on Wednesday, April 11, the woman left Room 227 and walked across the parking lot to the Padre Rita Grill for lunch. The owner, Cathy Laferty, a friendly 61-year-old with blond hair herself, greeted the woman and complimented her cute outfit and matching hat. “What’s your name?” Laferty asked.

“L—,” the woman hesitated, “Donna.”

“Like Madonna?”

“Yeah. That’s why I just go by Donna.”

It became their little joke, and how the woman introduced herself around South Padre, where she decided to stay awhile. Donna returned to the grill daily, often in the evening, when there was live music. “She was happy, laughed a lot. A delightful person,” Laferty said. “I probably would’ve hired her if she’d asked for a job.” Donna liked to sit at the corner of the bar, where she could talk to people on either side of her. She was sociable, striking up conversations with waitstaff and other customers. She mentioned that she’d been in Florida previously but had found it overrun with old people. She said she was recently widowed, had come into money, and was looking to buy a condo. She asked locals like Laferty about property taxes and homeowners association fees.

She always paid in cash from a large wad, and tipped generously. The grill’s staff liked her. “I would’ve invited her to my house,” said Laura Giacchino, who waited on Donna the first time she came in. Donna flirted shamelessly with the Padre Rita bartender, Arnie, who was several years younger than she was. He flirted back, but demurred when she asked him out.

Donna made other friends around town. She met Isabel Barreiro at the Motel 6 pool. Barreiro, who was 52 and lived 75 miles away in Alamo, had come to the island by herself for a short vacation, something she frequently did. Cool, she thought when she met Donna, another woman by herself. Someone to talk to. They hit it off, had a couple of drinks, and sat “chatting and chatting,” Barreiro said later. Donna explained to Barreiro that her husband had died, tearing up as she spoke. Barreiro didn’t ask questions, to avoid being nosy.

Over the next two days they had lunch, went shopping, hung out in each other’s motel rooms, and sat on the beach. Donna posed for photos with her new friend. “She wasn’t shy with the camera,” Barreiro said. “She wanted me to take pictures of her.”

A week later, the national news sent shockwaves through the Padre Rita Grill and across South Padre Island. That’s when locals discovered Donna’s true identity. “We had no idea when she was here that she was a murderer and trying to hide,” Laferty said. “You just never know people you see on the street or who walk into your bar, who they really are.”

Dave Riess
Part Two

Born in Rochester, Minnesota—home of the Mayo Clinic—on April 24, 1963, Dave Riess grew up southeast of the city’s downtown. He was a prankster at Mayo High School, class of 1981. The spring before graduation, he enlisted in the Navy and was stationed in San Diego, where he married Lois Witte on September 17, 1982. He was 19; she was 20.

Lois was also from Rochester, the fourth of five children. Their father was an engineer at IBM. Their mother was a hoarder, which so embarrassed Lois as a teenager that she didn’t invite friends to the house. Lois left Mayo High School after the 11th grade. Following their wedding, she and Dave had three children in four years: boy, girl, boy. “She was caring, always put herself second and us kids first,” Braden, the youngest, told a reporter after his father’s death. When Dave finished serving a Navy stint in Guam, the family moved back to Rochester.

Dave drove a forklift at Crenlo, a manufacturer of metal equipment, and eventually opened the Bait Box, a small shop where he sold live bait and fishing tackle. Lois ran a day care center out of their home, which had an aboveground swimming pool in the backyard. In 2005, they moved to Blooming Prairie, where Dave could pursue his dream of opening a wax worm farm.

Several months after they arrived, on the afternoon of February 16, 2006, a fire destroyed their house. No one was hurt, but the Riesses lost everything, including their cats. The cause may have been some faulty wiring Dave had done, which he felt terrible about. In a show of sympathy, their neighbors took up a collection. “That’s something our community does for people, whether they know them or not,” said Becky Noble, executive director of the Blooming Prairie chamber of commerce.

After they’d moved back into their rebuilt house—three bedrooms, two baths—Lois set up a day care facility there. She often had hot breakfast sandwiches ready for parents dropping off their preschoolers. Once her children had children of their own, Lois lavished her five grandkids with gifts, including cell phones and ATVs they could ride around the property. She joined the women’s bowling league at Bunkies, the four-lane alley on Blooming Prairie’s Main Street. She traveled to tournaments around the state with a group of about three dozen women, Noble among them. “She was fun-loving,” Noble said. “She had the cutest smile.”

That seemed to be the consensus around town: Lois was nice. She kept a clean house. She could be thoughtful, giving some friends who liked horses a set of tumblers frosted with equine figures. When Tess and Rod Koster invited Lois and Dave to their lake house along with another couple, Lois brought steaks for dinner and made breakfast for the group.

She was a good cook. A couple of times a week, she brought lunch over to the four or five guys working at the worm farm. They especially liked her generous servings of lasagna. After she stopped running the day care, around 2014, she helped out at the farm occasionally. It became a lucrative business. The staff made weekly deliveries to Walmart, Kwik Trip, and bait shops throughout Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, and Iowa. They also shipped boxes of wax worms—excellent bait to catch pan fish—all over the country. Winter was the busiest time, with the worms in high demand among ice fishermen. “That place was a moneymaking machine,” Dave’s friend Jerry Bissell said of the farm.

Dave treated his employees well. They were mostly young guys in their late teens or early twenties who came to think of him as a second father. He put gas in their trucks, gave them money when they needed it, took them fishing. “He was kind to people he didn’t even know,” said Denny Clark, another friend of Dave’s.

In fact, that’s how they met, 30 years ago when Dave was still living in Rochester and came over to Denny’s house with a mutual friend to lay some carpet as a favor. They got to talking about fishing and became fast friends. Dave and Denny rented a trailer home on the Mississippi River as a base camp for angling expeditions. They entered competitions and did well enough to win some money and be featured on television. “There was a lot of laughter in that boat,” Denny said of their trips together. “Being out there, it didn’t take a whole lot to get him laughing. He was just a happy guy.”

Lois and Dave often ate dinner at the local Servicemen’s Club. He volunteered on the board there and looked after the books. When Dave discovered someone was embezzling funds, he put a stop to it. He also campaigned for the club to start selling pull tabs, similar to lottery tickets, to raise money. The idea met with some resistance, but Dave managed to push it through.

Dave was a decent bowler, but he preferred shooting pool at the Pizza Cellar or the back room of J & H Liquors. Many days after work, he’d go into town to have a few beers—always Miller Lite—with a half dozen other men and to bullshit around the pool table. They’d often end up back at the worm farm, hanging out in the office, which Dave had equipped with a good stereo. On Sundays, the group gathered in Kelly Njos’s man cave, a shed behind his house, to watch the Vikings on the big-screen TV. Lois usually sent along something she’d made—deviled eggs or a cake.

The last time Dave’s friends saw him was at the J & H on a Thursday evening, March 8, 2018. They drank, shot pool, talked about football—nothing out of the ordinary. Looking back, they figure Dave was killed that Sunday. That’s the last time anyone saw him, when Dave and Lois went to Wisconsin to see their grandson play in a basketball tournament.

That seemed to be the consensus around town: Lois was nice. She kept a clean house. She could be thoughtful, giving some friends who liked horses a set of tumblers frosted with equine figures.

On Monday, March 12, Lois stopped by the worm farm’s office. Instead of greeting the workers warmly and asking about their weekends like she usually did, she kept her head down. “Dave’s not feeling good,” she said. “I’ve got to take care of him.”

They didn’t see her Tuesday or Wednesday. On Thursday, she came down to the office again. Dave? Still sick, she said. She was going to take him to the doctor on Friday. It seemed odd to the employees, Dave being absent and incommunicado, but he did have a history of stomach trouble. They didn’t want to bug him if he really was ill.

Lois sat at a desk in the office staring out the window toward the house. At one point, she put her head in her hands, elbows on her knees.

“You OK?” one of the employees asked.

“Yeah, fine. I didn’t sleep good last night.”

The following week, Lois said that the doctor had cleared Dave to compete in the season opener of the Cabela’s Masters Walleye Circuit, a fishing competition on the Illinois River. That meant he’d leave on Tuesday morning, pick up Denny Clark, and make the five-hour drive down to the competition site. His employees assumed that’s what Dave did—until they saw Lois drive off the property in the Escalade, two days after her husband should have taken it to the event.

The 56-year-old grandmother turned up the next day at Diamond Jo, a farm-themed casino just across the Iowa border, off I-35, a 45-minute drive from Blooming Prairie. She went there frequently, sometimes with friends. She liked to play the slot machines in the high-rollers room. At 6:30 p.m., she bought a packaged sandwich next door at the Kum & Go. Video surveillance showed her—five-foot-five, about 165 pounds—dressed in white slacks and a black-and-white-striped cardigan, unbuttoned over a purple T-shirt. Her hair was bleached to the point of looking white.

“Say, if you want to start heading south, would you take 35 south, just to keep going on down to the next state? Is that the way to go you think?” she asked a clerk while he was making change for her.

“I think so,” he said.

“OK, well thank you,” she said, her voice girlish.

It was that night when police found Dave’s body. Lois had been in and out of the house for more than a week while he lay dead in the bathroom. By the time investigators from the Dodge County Sheriff’s Office, Minnesota Bureau of Criminal Apprehension, and Iowa Division of Criminal Investigation arrived at Diamond Jo the next day—having tracked Lois’s cell phone there—she was gone. Her children were distraught at the news of their father’s death and their mother’s disappearance. They had no idea where Lois was. One of her sons told an investigator that she hadn’t opened the Snapchats he’d sent her.

The Dodge County Sheriff’s Office released a statement identifying Lois as a person of interest sought by law enforcement and “known to frequent casinos.” It warned that she might be armed. (Indeed, several years earlier, her father had given her a collector’s item, his Colt Woodsman .22.) The office assigned the case to general investigator Ben Bohle, who had been with the department since 2009.

Bohle discovered that in the previous week, Lois had deposited two business checks missing from the worm farm—one for $8,684.80, the other for $1,209.60—into her husband’s personal checking account at Citizens State Bank in Glenville (now Produce State Bank), a half-hour drive from Blooming Prairie. She had then cashed three checks drawn on his account—for $2,500, $7,500, and $1,000—the last two on March 23. Bohle soon secured a warrant to arrest Lois for felony theft.

From the beginning, Lois was the only suspect in Dave’s death. “All signs pointed immediately to her,” said Brian Smith, a U.S. marshal who assisted with the investigation. But why would she kill her husband? That’s what everyone in Blooming Prairie was talking about, from impromptu musings in the aisles of Vandal’s grocery store to Mr. Pfiefer’s forensics class across town at Blooming Prairie High School, which discussed the case for several weeks.

Investigators found no evidence of Lois or Dave having an affair, nor of any domestic abuse. The fact that Lois had forged the checks and gone to the casino, along with information law enforcement had gathered about her stealing money in the past, pointed to another motive. “That was a new one on me,” Smith said. “It was hard for me to wrap my mind around someone committing a murder to feed a gambling addiction.”

Why would she kill her husband? That’s what everyone was talking about, from impromptu musings in the aisles of Vandal’s grocery store to Mr. Pfiefer’s forensics class across town at Blooming Prairie High School.

Compulsive gamblers fall into two basic categories: thrill seekers, who are usually men playing skill-based games with high stakes, wanting to win big, and escape artists, who often play slot machines, not to hit a jackpot but to enter a trancelike state. Women with a gambling habit are most likely to fall into the latter category. Electronic slot machines, “like alcohol and drugs, can be used for mood management,” according to a 2005 article about female gambling published in the International Journal of Mental Health and Addiction. “Many women with gambling problems are seeking a way to numb emotions, shut out the world and orchestrate a time-out.”

The article continues: “As problem gambling progresses, many women become more and more isolated. This exacerbates the feelings of loneliness, shame and guilt that women with gambling problems experience.” During the course of his investigation, Smith discovered that Lois had withdrawn from family and friends of late. “I don’t know if it was a condition of her addiction, but she’d cut ties with a lot of people, family and friends,” he said. “A lot of people we talked to said, ‘Yeah, I know Lois, but I haven’t talked to her for a while.’”

Dave occasionally went to Diamond Jo with Lois, but gambling wasn’t his thing. It was hers. And it had become a problem in the years leading up to Dave’s murder. Lois had bilked several worm-farm employees, soliciting donations for a golf cart Dave could use to shuttle back and forth from the house—a vehicle that never materialized. One family member suspected that she went to the casino with money designated for the interment of her father’s remains, because his ashes had sat in her house for many months after his death in 2014. Her son Braden told Inside Edition that Lois had gambled away a $500,000 inheritance from her father. “It was all secrecy,” he said. “Gambling’s a terrible thing where it can suck people in and destroy lives.”

The most brazen theft was from Lois’s oldest sister, Kim. In October 2010, Kim’s marriage was failing, and she had a mental breakdown. Lois and Dave let Kim live with them for a while before placing her in adult foster care. In February 2012, claiming that her sister was “unable to perform tasks for daily living” or “make decisions regarding her medical needs,” Lois applied to be Kim’s legal guardian and conservator. According to forms Lois filed with the courts, her sister suffered from bipolar disorder, as well as clinical depression, and had the cognitive capacity of a ten-year-old. In required annual filings, Lois reported that her sister’s emotional, mental, and physical states had deteriorated. She noted that Kim had schizophrenia and Parkinson’s disease. She also declared that Kim had obsessive compulsive disorder that caused her to go on shopping sprees and spend lavishly.

With access to Kim’s resources, which included a $200,000 inheritance from their father, Lois withdrew thousands of dollars at a time from an ATM at Diamond Jo. A court audit dated September 15, 2015, uncovered Lois’s fiduciary betrayals of her sister. They included payment of $14,070 on an alleged debt to their already-deceased father, supposed gifts to Lois’s three children totaling $15,000, and almost $8,500 in reimbursement for undocumented expenses purportedly paid by Lois. A social worker advocating on Kim’s behalf requested suspension of Lois’s role as guardian and conservator. Lois had explanations, but the court didn’t buy them. On October 8, 2015, her guardianship was suspended, and four months later she was officially discharged. (Kim, who remains under the state’s care, could not be reached for comment.)

The Steele County Attorney’s Office decided not to press criminal charges against Lois after a judge ordered her in December 2016 to repay $100,534 to Kim. Lois’s attorney through most of this time, Kristin Haberman, told me she was confident in her assessment of her client. “Lois is a really pleasant person to be around,” Haberman said. “She’s friendly, caring, warm.”

Dave occasionally went to Diamond Jo with Lois, but gambling wasn’t his thing. It was hers. And it had become a problem in the years leading up to Dave’s murder.

Brian Smith first heard about Dave Riess’s murder while he was fixing dinner one night in March 2018. Smitty, as friends and coworkers call him, was at the time the lead coordinator for the U.S. Marshals’ North Star Fugitive Task Force, based in Minneapolis. He knew Dodge County sheriff Scott Rose, who had helped him on cases in the past, and offered to return the favor by investigating the case. Rose welcomed the assistance.

Smith heard speculation that Lois was siphoning money from the worm farm, and that for Dave, who was well aware of his wife’s gambling habit, the last straw came when she took the couple’s savings, set aside for a new vehicle, and squandered it at the casino. “After that the husband said, ‘I’m done. I’m cutting you off. If you want money, you can work for me in the business, but I’m not giving you any more,’” Smith said.

Most people in Blooming Prairie knew Dave and Lois as a nice, normal couple. Once the press invaded the community after Dave’s murder, those who knew about things like Lois’s theft from her sister invoked the omertà typical of small towns, refusing to comment. The people closest to the Riesses were aware that all was not right and hadn’t been for several years. “Lois was likable, but you always knew she was a click off,” said Scott Carlson, one of Dave’s inner circle of friends. “She did some oddball shit.”

In July 2016, for instance, she disappeared for three days. Dave discovered some new debts she had incurred and was so concerned that he reported her missing to the sheriff’s office. When Lois returned, she said that she’d been visiting a girlfriend in Minneapolis; she acted like it was no big deal.

Friends heard Dave make an ominous comment more than once: “If I ever go missing, you come looking for Lois.”

Part Three

Pam Hutchinson arrived in Fort Myers Beach, the resort hub of Estero Island, in the Gulf of Mexico, on April 3, 2018. She was there to be with her longtime friend Donna Fetrow, whose husband had recently committed suicide. Fetrow planned to spread his ashes on nearby Sanibel Island. While Fetrow stayed with family on Sanibel, Hutchinson checked into condo 404 at the Marina Village at Snug Harbor, a time-share complex. She was staying alone.

Hutchinson, 59, with short blond hair and a wide smile, was outgoing and quick to make friends. She loved to fish for marlin, stay out late, and vacation in Mexico. She had been a successful car saleswoman in Virginia Beach before divorcing her husband about two years earlier and moving to Bradenton, Florida. The week she traveled down to Fort Myers Beach, she’d found a condo in Bradenton that she wanted to buy.

On Tuesday evening, she had dinner with Fetrow on Sanibel and then watched the sun set. On Wednesday, Fetrow made the short drive to Fort Myers Beach, and the friends ate lunch outside at a restaurant off Old San Carlos Boulevard. That evening, Hutchinson passed on Fetrow’s offer to join her for dinner on Sanibel. Instead, she spent time with another middle-aged woman she’d just met. The woman inspired Hutchinson’s sympathy with her story of being recently widowed. After the pair spent about three hours drinking together, a security camera filmed them walking toward Hutchinson’s condo.

Hutchinson had intended to leave on Thursday, April 5, but decided to stay another night. That evening she ate an early dinner with her new friend at the Smokin’ Oyster, a tropical-themed tourist dive. Surveillance footage shows the two of them sitting at the bar, Hutchinson in a pink camo baseball cap and white blouse, the other woman in a blue T-shirt and cream-colored slacks. At one point, the woman removed the sunglasses pushed above her forehead and swished her bleached hair over her shoulder. At 7:37 p.m., Hutchinson paid for a Long Island Iced Tea, a watermelon margarita, a sweet tea, a Bloody Mary, and a Bahama Mama, along with half a pound of peel and eat shrimp, a side of chard, and a small chowder.

That night, Fetrow texted Hutchinson from the beach where her family was spreading her deceased husband’s ashes, but got no reply. She didn’t think much of it at the time. Meanwhile, Hutchinson’s realtor in Bradenton, Judy Keene, sent her the application required by the homeowners association for the condo she was going to purchase. They traded texts, but Keene didn’t hear anything from Hutchinson after about 7 p.m. When her client didn’t reply to texts over the weekend, Keene figured maybe she was having buyer’s remorse.

Fetrow texted Hutchinson from the beach where her family was spreading her husband’s ashes, but got no reply. She didn’t think much of it at the time. 

At 8:30 a.m. on Friday, April 6, Laurie Russell, manager at the Marina Village, received a call at the front desk from condo 404. “Oh, my gosh, I slept until 4 p.m. yesterday, and then I went out and met some great people and I’m gonna go boating today,” the woman on the line said. “Is there any way I could stay for the weekend?” Russell agreed to put an additional three days on one of Hutchinson’s credit cards.

Shortly after 11 a.m., a woman walked up to the counter of the Wells Fargo Bank in Fort Myers Beach wearing a white fedora with a black ribbon around the rim. She withdrew $5,000 from Hutchinson’s account, making small talk with the teller, saying she was staying in a nearby hotel but had bought a house in Bradenton. She left the bank, but rather than go boating, at some point that afternoon she started driving north in Hutchinson’s white Acura TL. She went past Bradenton, about 90 miles upstate. She drove all the way to Ocala, an additional 130 miles, and checked in to a Hilton that evening.

She signed Hutchinson’s name for two room-service deliveries, paid with one of her credit cards, and left the next morning. Shortly after 10:30 a.m., she used Hutchinson’s card to make three withdrawals of $500 each at a Bank of America drive-up ATM in Ocala. Then she continued north, eventually turning west and crossing the state line. She headed for the Coushatta Casino Resort off State Highway 165 in the town of Kinder, which boasts “the most slots in Louisiana!” She won a $1,500 jackpot on a $5 play.

The woman used a driver’s license and Social Security card to collect her winnings at 1:35 p.m. Both belonged to Lois Riess.

The police followed Hutchinson’s credit card trail, which led them to the surveillance videos from the Smokin’ Oyster, Wells Fargo, and Ocala Hilton. The same woman was in all the footage.

On April 9, Laurie Russell was checking units at Marina Village for a possible water leak. When she entered 404 there was a foul smell. She figured it was sewage, the source of the water problem. Still, something about the space seemed strange, so she asked two male guests outside to go back in with her.

In the bathroom, the guests found a dead woman lying on the floor. She had blond hair and was wearing a pink camo baseball cap, a white blouse, blue Levi’s shorts, and Teva flip-flops. A pillow, perforated by a bullet, was on top of her legs. The shot that killed her had sliced through the woman’s lower left lung, her heart’s right atrium and aorta, her esophagus, and her upper right lung. A .22 bullet was lodged in the right cup of her bra.

The woman had collapsed while her stomach and intestines filled with blood. As the odor emanating from the condo indicated, she had been dead several days. Her toothbrush was in the sink, where she must have dropped it when she was shot. Someone—presumably the killer—had covered her with a towel and stuffed more towels against the crack under the bathroom door. Before leaving, they turned the thermostat down to 61.

The group that found the body called 911. Upon learning that Hutchinson had been staying in 404, Lee County sheriff’s deputies called her ex-husband in Virginia Beach. They interviewed guests at the Marina Village as well as Hutchinson’s friends. They followed her credit card trail, which led them to the surveillance videos from the Smokin’ Oyster, Wells Fargo, and Ocala Hilton. The same woman was in all the footage.

She looked like Hutchinson—the right age, similar hair color, comparable complexion and build—but by then the deputies had identified the body in the bathroom. It was Hutchinson. The more surveillance video they watched, the more they saw of the other woman. It even placed her in 404 at the time of the murder. Footage stamped 7:46 p.m. showed Hutchinson and the woman approaching Hutchinson’s condo. At 8:34 p.m., a camera captured the woman walking by herself toward the building’s fourth-floor elevator. She stood in the landing area for 13 minutes, appearing distraught and upset, perhaps crying. Then she returned to Hutchinson’s condo.

Video from the next morning captured the woman in the Marina Village parking lot. She backed up Hutchinson’s Acura next to a Cadillac Escalade, then transferred luggage and other items from the SUV into the sedan.

The evening before Hutchinson was found murdered, a sergeant with the Lee County Sheriff’s Office had come across a white Cadillac Escalade with Minnesota plates at Bowditch Point, on the northern tip of Fort Myers Beach. It had been abandoned. He ran the registration and found that it belonged to Dave Riess. Investigators didn’t know what to make of it until they watched the surveillance video from the Marina Village. Tess Koster of Blooming Prairie connected the final dots.

Someone—presumably the killer—had covered Hutchinson with a towel and stuffed more towels against the crack under the bathroom door. Before leaving, they turned the thermostat down to 61.

A week before Hutchinson’s body was found, on a beautiful sunny afternoon, Tess Koster was cleaning the garage of one of the five rental units she and her husband, Rod, owned on Fort Myers Beach, where they wintered. The rest of the year they lived in Blooming Prairie, where they owned a car dealership. That day their daughter, Breauna, contacted them to say that a woman had called the dealership and identified herself as a friend. She said she was in Fort Myers Beach and wanted to visit the Kosters.

Breauna had given the woman the address where her parents were—880 Third St. She didn’t think twice about it. The Kosters were always inviting people from Blooming Prairie to visit them. Several years earlier, for instance, when they sat next to each other at a wedding, the Kosters had told the Riesses that they should come down to Florida some time.  

About 1:45 p.m. on April 2, from the garage at 880 Third St., Tess saw a woman with a white ponytail at the end of the drive check a notebook in her hand, then look at the house number. Tess took a step toward her, thinking she was there to inquire about one of the rentals.

“Can I help you?” she asked.

The woman looked up. When their eyes met, Tess immediately recognized Lois. She had talked to friends back home, so she knew about the discovery of Dave’s body ten days prior. Lois also seemed to recognize Tess. She ducked her head, muttered “Wrong house,” and walked off quickly. Tess saw her drive away in a white Escalade.

She and Rod called 911. After half an hour, two deputies showed up from the Lee County Sheriff’s Office. They knew that Lois was wanted on the felony theft charge and in connection with Dave’s death, but they figured that seeing Tess had spooked her off the island, that she was long gone by then. They provided additional patrols in the Kosters’ neighborhood but didn’t stake out the bridge to the mainland or search Fort Myers Beach for Lois or the Escalade. “The police down there did a horrible job,” Breauna said. “That woman [Hutchinson] could still be alive today.”

After discovering Hutchinson’s body only two blocks from the Kosters’ house on Third Street, Lee County law enforcement eventually called Tess down to the station. They showed her three video clips and two photos of the woman making bank withdrawals in Hutchinson’s name. In all of them, Tess identified Lois Riess.

Pam Hutchinson
Part Four

Authorities in Florida sent out a nationwide BOLO—be on the lookout—alert. In Minnesota, investigator Ben Bohle saw it and contacted the deputies down in Lee County. They compared notes on the homicides of Dave Riess and Pam Hutchinson: Both victims were shot in a bathroom with a .22 handgun and covered with a blanket or towel. Afterward, the suspect took each victim’s vehicle and money.  

If Lois was responsible for killing not only her husband but also a stranger, finding her was more urgent than Minnesota authorities had initially thought. “She looks like anybody’s mother or grandmother, yet she is a cold-blooded killer,” Carmine Marceno, then Lee County’s undersheriff, said on television. “The suspect’s resources will run out and she may become very desperate, and she could strike again.”

U.S. marshals elevated their search for Lois to a “major case.” They set up a national hotline and posted billboards in Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California, and Nevada that read “Wanted: Murder,” with Lois’s name and photo. They put up a $5,000 reward. Crime Stoppers of Florida offered an additional $1,000 reward.

Widespread media coverage helped bring in tips, which law enforcement sifted through, but Lois’s trail had gone cold since a remote camera spotted the white Acura along Texas Highway 77 outside Refugio, south of Houston, on April 8 at 11:16 p.m.

Authorities figured she was likely headed to Mexico. They alerted U.S. Border Patrol and Mexican authorities. They checked to see if Lois had an active passport. She didn’t. “She could be trying to get in with somebody that had the ability to get across the border,” U.S. Marshal Brian Smith said. “Find somebody with a passport and assume their identity like she did with the woman in Fort Myers Beach, or somebody with access to a boat.”

Smith logged plenty of overtime, regularly getting up early to make the 75-mile drive from Minneapolis to Blooming Prairie, executing search warrants, and spending “hours and hours and hours” with Bohle going through the Riess house, looking for anything—bills, statements, receipts, electronic devices—that might help them capture Lois before she could kill again or disappear across the border.

For Smith, the work became personal after seeing how the situation had devastated Lois’s two older children, Bill and Bria. The youngest, Braden, didn’t have much to say after his appearance on Inside Edition. Bill and Bria declined to talk to the press entirely and cut short phone calls from me. But they worked closely with investigators to locate their mother and find out what had happened to their father. “They’re really, really nice people,” Smith said. “I was highly motivated to bring this case to closure.”

“She looks like anybody’s mother or grandmother, yet she is a cold-blooded killer,” Carmine Marceno, Lee County’s undersheriff, said on television.

The widespread media attention and police alerts about Lois didn’t seem to penetrate the community in South Padre. Workers at the Padre Rita Grill and elsewhere on the island relied more on local sources for news and information. That helped Lois hide in plain sight, less than 30 miles from the Mexican border, calling herself Donna. Amanda Camacho, the Motel 6 clerk who had checked her in, later said that she transformed from looking “like an elderly lady” when she arrived into someone more provocative, wearing short shorts and tank tops. On her belly, she had what looked like a fresh tattoo, depicting a palm tree and a beachside sunset.  

For more than a week, Lois traipsed around South Padre making friends. On April 17, Ron Mulholland met her at the Padre Rita. The 76-year-old, who owned several condos on the island, stopped in for dinner about 9 p.m. and sat near her at the bar. After chatting for an hour, she accepted his invitation to go to the Coral Reef, a karaoke bar just up Padre Boulevard. When Mulholland dropped her off at her motel later that night, he gave her his business card and suggested they get together again.

More often, the people Lois befriended were like Pam Hutchinson: middle-aged women, single or traveling alone. One evening she approached Bernadette Mathis, a 65-year-old court reporter, who was sitting alone at the bar of Liam’s Steak House and Oyster Bar. They struck up a conversation. After dinner the women exchanged phone numbers. Lois later texted Mathis: “Bragd about my new friend. Be good n safe. I want to hang out soon.” Mathis did not have many friends outside of work and was happy about the prospect of making a new one. The next evening the women met for dinner again at Liam’s. Mathis didn’t make it through her second drink—she could usually handle more—before she appeared to be intoxicated. The bartender wondered if someone might have slipped her something.

Later, Mathis had a fuzzy recollection of how she and Lois ended up back at her house. They sat in the hot tub, and Lois spent the night in the guest bedroom. There were security cameras throughout the residence. The next morning, Mathis took Lois out to breakfast at the Rancho Viejo Country Club. Mathis noticed that Lois took out some pills—she had a few kinds—and took one. After breakfast, Mathis drove her new friend back to the Motel 6. They made plans to meet again for dinner the following Friday, April 20. “She acted like a really nice person, and I trusted her,” Mathis later told law enforcement.

Peggy Houlihan met Lois at the Motel 6 pool one day with Isabel Barreiro. A musician planning to perform that evening at the Padre Rita’s open mic, Houlihan had her guitar with her, and the three women sang some songs together. Barreiro recorded it. Lois seemed happy to be included.

Yet something about the situation made Houlihan uncomfortable. Lois was pressuring Barreiro to stay on the island longer. Houlihan wondered if the women might be lovers, or if that’s what Barreiro’s new friend was hoping they would become. That evening, Lois arrived at the Padre Rita before Barreiro and joined Houlihan at her table. Barreiro had already relented to stay an extra night, but according to Houlihan, Lois seemed agitated, fretting that Barreiro might have departed the island without telling her. When Barreiro finally arrived, Lois took her to a separate table. The two women left without saying goodbye.

“I didn’t know till the next morning that Isabel was OK,” Houlihan later said. (Houlihan, Barreiro, and Mathis didn’t respond to requests for interviews; details of their interactions with Lois are taken from police interviews.) “Isabel came to say goodbye to me,” Houlihan continued. Barreiro left South Padre that day, not knowing how close she’d gotten with a killer.

The people Lois befriended were like Pam Hutchinson: middle-aged women, single or traveling alone. 

On April 19, more than a week after she had arrived on the island, Lois drove Hutchinson’s Acura a few miles down Padre Boulevard to Dirty Al’s, which claimed to serve the “best seafood on South Padre.” She asked to look at a menu. A waiter chatted with her for a few minutes.

Across the room the manager, George Higginbotham, observed the conversation. The woman looked familiar. The long bleached hair—hadn’t he seen her somewhere? When she swished it over her shoulder, it clicked. CBS This Morning.

After she returned the menu and walked out of the restaurant—she wanted to eat at a bar, and Dirty Al’s didn’t have one available for seating—Higginbotham told his staff, “That’s her, the woman who killed the lady in Florida!”

Nah, the other employees said.

“It is,” Higginbotham insisted. He urged them to see what car she got into. It was a white sedan, the kind of vehicle the murder suspect was driving. Higginbotham called the police.

Brian Smith was one of the first people to be notified about the tip in South Texas. He was immediately in contact with the deputy U.S. marshals dispatched to South Padre. When they arrived at Dirty Al’s, Higginbotham told the marshals that Lois was wearing a yellow tank top and white shorts, and that her car had Florida plates. He had surveillance footage but didn’t know how to retrieve it.

The marshals didn’t have to look for Lois very long. She had gone to the Sea Ranch restaurant, right next door to Dirty Al’s. They spotted the white Acura parked outside.

While officers secured the restaurant’s exits, several marshals and local cops entered the Sea Ranch and quickly surrounded Lois. She was sitting at her preferred location: a corner spot at the bar. One of the marshals picked up her purse. “Lois, we’re going to take you out of here and explain what’s going on,” Marshal Shelly Sleep said. “Don’t make a scene.”

Lois complied without comment. Sleep found that strange, since fugitives usually resist arrest or feign innocence. “She didn’t have a single emotion on her face,” Sleep said.

The next day, authorities converged on South Padre Island. Sheriff’s deputies came in from Florida; an officer from the Bureau of Criminal Apprehension flew down from Minnesota. They took DNA swabs from Lois and obtained warrants to search the Acura and Room 227 at the Motel 6. They found a map, a brochure from the Lucky Eagle Casino, pill bottles, and piles of clothes, including the white fedora she was seen wearing in surveillance videos when she posed as Pam Hutchinson. They found tissues, soap, and a green and white towel taken from Marina Village. A small stash of LifeStyles Ultra Lube Plus condoms. Hutchinson’s checkbook, four credit cards, and $548 in cash. A black bag with bullets, a holster, duct tape, and rubber gloves inside. Two handguns, the Colt Woodsman .22 her father had given her, and a Smith & Wesson nine millimeter.

They also found “what appeared to be a trophy,” according to investigators: Hutchinson’s sunglasses, wrapped in a hand towel.

Lois Riess
Part Five

The arrest of Lois Riess unnerved the people she’d met on South Padre. Isabel Barreiro, Bernadette Mathis, Cathy Laferty—all the women who’d been taken in by her friendliness—shuddered to think that they could have been her next victim. Mathis, not having heard about Lois’s arrest, showed up at Liam’s for their scheduled dinner on April 20. When she asked around, she learned that the woman she knew as Donna was someone else entirely. “I feel very betrayed, and I feel stupid that I could be so gullible,” she told a reporter. “It’s just scary—very scary to meet a stranger and think that they’re going to be your friend and they turn out to be a killer.”

Tess Koster had been so shaken by Lois’s appearance in her driveway in Fort Myers Beach that she broke out in a rash and threw up the next two mornings. Perhaps Lois had hoped she’d find one of the Kosters’ rental units empty so she could squat there. But Tess, who bears a resemblance to Lois—blond hair, about the same age—fears there was a more sinister reason for her visit. “I was afraid for my life,” she said. “She’s turned me from that small-town trusting person to having a loaded gun by my bed.”

In Blooming Prairie, the six weeks between Dave’s disappearance and Lois’s arrest rocked the community’s sense of itself. Suddenly, the previously anonymous town was in the headlines because of someone the national media dubbed “Losing Streak Lois” and “Killer Granny.” To think that a neighbor—a woman with whom people had shared meals, drinks, and laughs, someone trusted to care for local children—had done what she did was crushing. So too was the absence of any clear reason.

As a violent criminal, Lois Riess is an outlier. It’s rare for women to kill at all, and when they do it’s often an exceptional event, the result of jealous rage or the need to protect themselves from an abuser. “She doesn’t fit a profile because you don’t have enough people to make a profile,” said Tricia Aiken, a forensic psychologist in Minneapolis.

Did gambling make her do it? Despite headlines and popular theories suggesting this was the case, there are only a handful of instances worldwide during the past twenty years of problem gamblers killing other people. The most similar case might be Donna Blanton, who in 2003 shot her husband of six months, a Virginia state trooper, with his own .380 pistol after they argued about her gambling debt. It’s far more likely for problem gamblers to be violent toward themselves. One in five have seriously contemplated or attempted suicide, according to the National Council on Problem Gambling. “One reason we think there’s a higher suicide rate is that people with a gambling problem have fewer options, less help and less understanding,” said Keith Whyte, NCPG’s executive director. “We don’t want the image of the gambling addict to be a homicidal maniac. These are folks who face a lot of shame and stigma.”

Gambling addiction is complicated, messy, not the kind of disease that often develops in isolation from other problems. “A number of our patients have co-occurring disorders,” said Mike Schiks, CEO of Project Turnabout Recovery Center, in Granite Falls, Minnesota, which treats gambling addicts. “It’s not a singular-dimension illness.”

Those co-occurring conditions can include depression, anxiety, and bipolar disorder. They often cluster in families, and that seems to have been the case with Lois’s. Her mother, who struggled with hoarding, was eventually committed to a state hospital for the mentally ill. In addition to Kim, Lois had another older sister, Cindee, who suffered from depression. A year after Lois killed her husband, Cindee acted out violently, too.

In March 2019, at her house about ten miles southeast of Rochester, Cindee argued with her 37-year-old son, who was drunk. He shoved her. Cindee and her husband kicked him out. Shortly after, she found him lying in the driveway and told him to get in the car so she could take him away. He refused. She got in her 2004 Ford Explorer and drove over him. He suffered a badly fractured pelvis and head injuries. When a deputy asked Cindee if she had meant to run over her son, she said, “You bet.”

She was charged with second- and third-degree assault, criminal vehicular operation, and domestic assault. The morning of August 5, 2019, she quarreled with her probation officer. That afternoon she purchased a clothesline from a hardware store in Rochester, drove to Quarry Hill Park, near where she and Lois grew up, walked through the woods to a pedestrian bridge spanning a deep ravine, and hanged herself.

In a court appearance, Lois acknowledged that she had been taking medication for “a mental condition.” When she went missing in 2016, Dave told police that Lois suffered from depression. Could she also have experienced late onset of something like bipolar disorder? According to one study, 10 percent of bipolar cases occur in people over the age of 50. “All of these pieces together give you a lot more confidence there was an acute manic psychotic episode,” said John Fabian, a forensic and clinical neuropsychologist who has examined nearly 700 murder cases.

As people close to the Riesses knew, there had been signs that something was amiss. In December 2015, a few months after Lois’s theft from her sister Kim was exposed, Dave came home from lunch at a Dairy Queen with a coworker. He asked the coworker to drop him at the house instead of the worm farm so he could use the bathroom, and when he walked inside he found Lois unconscious in a chair. She had overdosed on pain pills.

Dave called 911. First responders performed CPR. A helicopter airlifted Lois to Saint Marys Hospital in Rochester, part of the Mayo Clinic. After almost two weeks, she recovered. She stayed out of sight in Blooming Prairie for a while, and when she did start going out again, she acted as if nothing had happened. Other people did, too.

That’s how you carry on in a small town. Dave did his part to shield his wife from the cruelty of gossip and conjecture. Not one to talk about emotions, he made only passing comments to his closest friends about her gambling and his concerns about her health. Once, though, he confided in a friend about finding Lois unconscious. “That was one of the biggest mistakes of my life, going up to the house that day,” he’d said.

It’s rare for women to kill at all, and when they do it’s often an exceptional event, the result of jealous rage or the need to protect themselves from an abuser.

Lois Riess appeared in Florida district court on December 17, 2019. To avoid the death penalty, she admitted to shooting Pam Hutchinson with a firearm and pled guilty to first-degree murder. She also pled guilty to grand theft of a motor vehicle and other property and criminal use of personal identification information of a deceased individual. She did not provide a statement but simply answered the court’s questions. “Pursuant to the agreement, ma’am, I will adjudicate you guilty,” the judge said, sentencing her to life in prison without parole and ordering her to pay $38,556 in attorney fees and other expenses.

On August 11, 2020, after delays due to the coronavirus, the pretrial hearing in the case of Dave Riess’s murder took place in the auditorium of a Minnesota high school two miles down the road from the Dodge County courthouse, which can accommodate only seven spectators. Fifty people were there, including some family, several reporters, law enforcement, and plainclothes security guards. Lauri Traub, Lois’s court-appointed public defender, had worked out a deal with Matthew Frank of the Minnesota attorney general’s office. (Frank is also prosecuting Derek Chauvin and three other Minneapolis police officers in the death of George Floyd.) Lois would plead guilty to first-degree murder of her husband and receive a mandatory life sentence without parole. She would be able to serve her time in Minnesota, closer to her family, instead of Florida.

Promptly at 1:30 p.m., the cast of attorneys, bailiff, and court reporter strode onto the stage and took their places at neatly arranged tables. Lois entered stage left, clad in an orange jumpsuit and white sneakers, hands shackled at her waist. Her long hair was brushed smooth. She located her two oldest children and their spouses, seated in the auditorium’s front rows. It was the first time she had seen them in two years and five months; they had only seen her on TV screens. Her face was partially covered by a light gray protective mask, but her eyes seemed to be smiling at them.

Judge Jodi Williamson told Lois that she could remove her mask so the court could hear her responses, then established, through a volley of questions she put to the defendant, that Lois was satisfied with her defense and was thinking clearly, unaffected by medication she took for arthritis and high cholesterol. (There was no mention of antidepressants or any other medication to treat mental illness.) Williamson confirmed that Lois was pleading guilty because she was indeed guilty.

When it was Traub’s turn to ask questions, Lois recounted how she had killed Dave: On Sunday, March 11, after she and Dave had attended their grandson’s basketball game in Wisconsin, Lois wanted to stay with her family, but Dave wanted to leave. They left, and argued on the drive home. They continued to argue in their bedroom. According to Lois, Dave took a loaded handgun out of the dresser, offered it to her, and said, “Why don’t you just kill yourself? Maybe you’ll get it right this time.” Instead, she took the gun, aimed it at her husband’s chest, and fired twice.

“Did you know Dave was dead?” Traub asked.

Lois sighed. “Yes.”

“What did you do then?”

Tears pooled in her eyes. “I laid down with him.”

The judge could not hear her response and asked Lois to repeat it.

“I laid down with him. I closed his eyes.”

Lois lowered her head, obscuring her face with a curtain of hair.

The prosecutor asked, “You made the decision to shoot him?” Lois eyed him squarely. “He was right in front of me,” she said, “and I looked at him in the heart and shot him.”

The family in attendance did not react visibly to this story, but expressed their feelings clearly in the impact statements that followed. A social worker read the first on behalf of Dave’s elderly mother: “When you killed David, you took my heart. David was this family’s ray of sunshine. I will never forgive you.” Lois clenched her mouth. Dave’s sister, Cindy, said her brother died “just so a cold-blooded murderer could satisfy her gambling addiction,” and that “she left him laying dead while she partied and gambled just like before.” Lois dropped her eyes.

When Lois’s firstborn, Bill, approached the podium, Lois turned in her chair to face him. “You stole something from us we’ll never get back,” he said. “I’ll never be able to forgive you.” Lois dabbed at her eyes. Bill collected his breath. “The hurt you caused my kids, your grandkids… God, they loved you so much.”

Lois’s daughter, Bria, was the last to speak, which she did with difficulty. “Losing my dad at the hands of my mom is something I’ll never be able to process,” she said. “If I could go back in time to make sure my mom got the help she needed and never kill[ed] my dad—those are thoughts that constantly haunt me.” Lois grimaced and nodded, crying softly.

The judge issued the mandatory life sentence without possibility of release. She set aside the charge of felony theft and left open the question of restitution to be determined later. Lois put on a pair of brown plastic glasses to read her own statement. “What I did is an unpardonable crime,” she said. “Solitude is forever. I feel I deserve this. I will have no reprieve. My life without David is my sentence, my penance. Our children are loving, caring, strong people.” She paused, sniffled. “It’s because of David’s strengths they are that way. My best accomplishment was having our children.”

She apologized to Dave’s family and friends for “taking him from you,” and swiveled to regard her children. “I feel I need to say this: I didn’t know how much pain I was in until I wasn’t anymore.”

“He was right in front of me,” Lois said, “and I looked at him in the heart and shot him.”

Lois declined several requests for an interview. People who’ve followed her case or been affected by her crimes are left to speculate what she meant by “pain.” A mental illness? An unhappy marriage? The gambling addiction? Something else?

When the hearing ended, Lois stood and crossed the auditorium’s stage in her orange jumpsuit and white sneakers, flanked by Traub and a sheriff’s deputy. She gazed at her children, placed her right hand on her heart, and mouthed, “I love you.” Then she bowed her head and walked off the stage.

Afterward, outside the auditorium, I spotted Traub, who had previously talked to me about her client. The two women are about the same age, and they both have three children they enjoy bragging about. “I know she killed two people and it sounds kind of weird, but I genuinely like her,” Traub had said back then. In an otherwise empty corridor, I asked her if she believed Lois. Traub paused, shrugged her shoulders. “That’s her story,” she said. “That’s the story she’s been telling all along.”

Then she flicked my elbow with the back of her hand, as though we shared a confidence, and added, “Why would she lie to me?”


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The Free and the Brave

THE FREE AND THE BRAVE

A patriotic parade, a bloody brawl, and the origins of U.S. law enforcement’s war on the political left.

By Bill Donahue

The Atavist Magazine, No. 106


Bill Donahue has written for The New York Times Magazine, Outside, and Harper’s, among other publications. He is based in New Hampshire. Follow him on Twitter: @billdonahue13.

Editor: Jonah Ogles
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Kate Wheeling
Illustrator: John Lee

Published in August 2020.

I.

American flags lined the parade route, and more than 200 men in shined boots stepped into formation. The date was November 11, 1919—a proud occasion, the first Armistice Day. It had been exactly one year since Germany signed a pledge to stop fighting Great Britain, France, the United States, and other allies, thereby ending World War I. If ever there was a moment for solemn patriotism, this was it. And if ever there was a town suited to express rock-ribbed, God-fearing devotion to America, then Centralia, Washington, was the place.

Centralia was a tidy and prosperous logging town of 7,300 set amid the primeval forests of the Pacific Northwest. Its municipal fathers had taken special pains to ensure that their town stood head and shoulders above other, less civilized western outposts, with their dingy saloons and whorehouses. Centralia had concrete sidewalks. It had streetlights and streetcars and a sewer system. It had a volunteer fire department and a newspaper that dutifully championed the decency and civility of the town’s leaders as they shaped Centralia into a bona fide municipality.

The morning of the parade, that paper, The Centralia Daily Chronicle, reminded readers that Armistice Day was not a party. It was, rather, a holiday “warning against any efforts to interrupt the natural development of Christian Civilization.” The largest perceived impediment to “Christian Civilization” in 1919 was Bolshevism, which had reached full flower two years earlier during the Russian Revolution and found a foothold in America by way of a growing labor movement. A Red Scare was in full swing, and the Chronicle’s editorial homed in on that newfound American obsession. “We can sing and shout and march to the tuneful music of the fife and drums and the martial bands,” it read, “but in all we must not forget the battle is not all won until the disease spots have been eradicated.”

The Armistice Day marchers believed in the righteousness of that battle. Members of the local Elks Club were there, along with a contingent of Boy Scouts and some Marines. Centralia was also home to a newly minted chapter of the American Legion, a national veterans’ group. The Grant Hodge Post was named after a local Army lieutenant who died in France’s Argonne Forest. Eighty of its Legionnaires brought up the rear of the parade.

They were led by a young veteran and lawyer named Warren Grimm. Solidly built and fair, with thinning dark blond hair, Grimm had played football at the University of Washington a decade earlier. As a freshman, he earned himself the nickname Wedge by playing the starring role in a brutal hazing ritual: He led 50 classmates to victory over a sophomore squad in a no-rules skirmish by forming them into a wedge and charging. Now Grimm, 31, led a different kind of configuration. As the Legionnaires divided themselves into eight platoons of ten men each, a marching band played the popular World War I–era tune “Over There.” The lyrics went:

Johnnie, get your gun, get your gun, get your gun
Make your daddy glad to have had such a lad
Tell your sweetheart not to pine, to be proud her boy’s in line.

The parade kicked off at 2 p.m. and followed Centralia’s brick-paved main thoroughfare, Tower Avenue. At the north end sat Centralia’s grandest edifice, the Union Loan & Trust Building, a three-story brick structure replete with a Doric arch over its doorway and a belt of white stone running the length of the facade. Many of its hundred or so windows were elegantly domed at the crest, and the building’s size and heft clearly identified it as the seat of all rectitude and power in Centralia. A men’s clothing store selling dress suits occupied the building’s ground level, exuding respectability. The president of Union Loan & Trust kept his office on the second floor, while the third floor was home to the Elks Club. At one point, the Chronicle was housed in the basement, where it served as a pep squad for the town’s elite and the resource-rich county over which they held dominion. “There are more opportunities to the square inch,” the paper once proclaimed, “than in any other place in the world.”

Just a half-mile away from the Union Loan & Trust Building, the view from the north end of Tower Avenue was harder and grimier. It featured a clutter of low-rent boarding houses that drew itinerant loggers who felled trees in the forests surrounding town. Two stories high, with a warren of small rooms equipped with cold-water sinks, the hotels were home to a constellation of weary and solitary men who typically arrived in town with just a few bucks to their name. There was the Arnold, the Avalon, the Michigan House, the Queen, and the Roderick.

It was in front of the Roderick that Centralia’s Legionnaires suddenly stopped during the parade. Warren Grimm raised his arm and shouted, “Halt, close up ranks!” It was a strange command. The Armistice Day marchers were spaced out by then, with Grimm’s men well behind the rest of the procession. By halting, the Legionnaires would only widen the gap.

Facing the veterans on the Roderick’s ground floor was a 1,000-square-foot space that served as the union hall for the local chapter of the Workers of the World. A large storefront window bore the initials IWW, three letters that evoked the purported evils of Bolshevism or the virtues of economic brotherhood, depending on who was reading them. Grimm’s men stood motionless for a moment. The crowd that had gathered to view the parade waited for the Legionnaires’ next move.

So did several armed Wobblies, as IWW members called themselves. The Wobblies were hidden from view, prepared to attack if anyone tried to eradicate “disease spots.” They wouldn’t let that happen—not again.

II.

Centralia was in some ways a wholesome idyll—the kind of place that in November 1919 ran a news story about “seven boys charged with Hallowe’en pranks” who appeared “before Police Judge Hodge yesterday evening.” (The boys, the Chronicle reported, were “given a lecture by the court and ordered to repair the damages they did.”) But the town was also plagued by troubles that would seem familiar today. The influenza epidemic cast a shadow over everything. In the fall of 1918, it had killed eight people inside of 36 hours in and around the nearby town of Chehalis, and just a few weeks before the Armistice Day parade, the Chronicle had intoned, “Many medical men say we will probably have another epidemic this fall.” Influenza masks were everywhere, and the paper carried advertisements for a dubious elixir, cascara quinine bromide, said to kill the flu if swallowed.

Meanwhile, America was riven by a political divide that deepened sharply in 1919, cutting into small towns like Centralia. The American Legion was founded that March by a contingent of World War I veterans who aimed, according to their constitution, to “foster and perpetuate a 100 percent Americanism.” The group’s language would soon be picked up by another growing movement devoted to patriotic purity: The Ku Klux Klan, revived by a Methodist minister in 1915, also began touting “100 percent Americanism.” The KKK beat and lynched African Americans. It went after Jews and Catholics. It deplored communists and anyone associated with them.

So did the most powerful men in U.S. law enforcement, who fixated on acts of violence staged by a few extremists as evidence of the American left’s wider, nefarious aims. Luigi Galleani, an infamous anarchist orator and political sage of the day, espoused “propaganda of the deed,” which to him involved eradicating capitalism by using explosives. On April 29, 1919, disciples of Galleani sent former Georgia senator Thomas Hardwick a package bomb that blew off his housekeeper’s hands. On June 2, another bomb went off at the Washington, D.C., home of U.S. Attorney General A. Mitchell Palmer. Though no one in the home was injured, it shattered the windows—and engendered a historic shift in the way the United States policed the political left.

To combat what he deemed a burgeoning terrorist movement composed of “ultradicals or Bolshevists,” Palmer opened the Radical Division inside the Justice Department’s Bureau of Investigation. As he staffed this new unit, he made an unorthodox promotion, choosing as its director a recent law-school graduate, just 24 years old, who’d began his career by helping the government track down “alien enemies” during World War I. J. Edgar Hoover joined the Radical Division in August 1919. Three months later, on the night of November 7, the boy wonder set anticommunist shock troops loose on 12 cities nationwide. In each locale, the target was the Union of Russian Workers. Hoover’s men rounded up 1,100 suspects, whom young J. Edgar aimed to deport. In Manhattan alone, at the Russian Peoples House in Union Square, the troops arrested more than 200 people and injured many by whacking them on the head, according to one man, with “a twelve-inch steel jimmy and a stair bannister.” Then they herded the accused into the Justice Department’s local bureau. The interrogations lasted until 4:30 a.m.

Powerful men fixated on acts of violence staged by a few extremists as evidence of the American left’s wider, nefarious aims.

Nothing so dramatic had yet happened in Centralia. Still, local politics reflected the national backdrop. Centralia’s young professionals, men like Warren Grimm, were in thrall to one F.B. Hubbard. At 73, Hubbard was a charter member of the Elks Club and president of the town’s largest employer, the Eastern Railway & Lumber Company. Also the president of his own bank, he was the financier behind the Union Loan & Trust Building. Hubbard had silver hair and a broad, bushy mustache. In photographs, his gaze was so steady, his posture so ramrod straight, that he seemed carved in stone, his torso and head forming an invincible marble bust. A New York native, Hubbard had made a small fortune mass-producing narrow wooden crossarms for telegraph poles before moving to Centralia in 1908. By 1919, he had more than 200 people working for him, distributed across 9,000 acres he owned—magnificent, lumber-rich forest, all of it underlain, according to the Chronicle, with “a fine coal deposit.” His allegiance to the town was so deep that the newspaper once saw fit to uppercase his virtues—“Energy” and “Thoroughness”—before noting, “His counsel is much sought and prized by the public, and his natural tendency … is to aid every industry that makes for the social, mental, physical and financial betterment of the district.” 

Hubbard’s archenemy was organized labor, which had a strong appeal in western Washington. Loggers in the region earned about two dollars a day for up to 12 hours of work. When they were on the job, they lodged for weeks on end in cramped cabins in the woods. There were “40 men in the bunkhouse,” according to Eugene Barnett, a logger who moved to Centralia in 1918. “You worked all day in the rain. You came in at night and hung your soggy clothes up around the one stove in the center of the room with wires going out from it in all directions like a spider web, and they hung there and steamed all night. And you slept there in that steam. That’s the only bath you got.”

In 1914, a short-lived group called the International Union of Timber Workers zeroed in on Hubbard’s practice of paying employees poverty wages—some of the workers at his plant made as little as $1.35 a day. When two of Centralia’s Protestant ministers showed up at Hubbard’s office, sympathetic to his workers and hoping to have a look at his payroll, he showed them the door. The union decided to go on strike, and 125 men walked off the job that August. As the picket began, the president and the secretary of the union jointly wrote a letter to the Chronicle, noting that in Hubbard’s lumber camps, loggers were charged 50 cents a month for the use of $4 mattresses.

The Chronicle hurt the union’s cause by calling strikers “agitators” and running a puff piece that extolled Hubbard’s “almost paternal consideration for his employees.” The paper went so far as to claim that Hubbard had “some ideas that might be considered almost socialistic by more material captains of industry.”

Hubbard didn’t change his policies. Instead, he increased the length of the workday at his mill from eight to ten hours, and also hired scabs. In January 1915, more than 70 of these new workers sent a joint letter to the newspaper that pilloried the “self-styled strikers” and proclaimed, “We, the employees, are satisfied with the treatment and the scale of the wages paid us.”

It wasn’t long before the strike ended and Hubbard moved on to more pressing concerns, such as the purchase of a couple of three-car locomotives to transport his timber. But the battle between industry and labor in Centralia was just getting started. 

 F.B. Hubbard

III.

The IWW was a vehemently anti-capitalist organization. When it was founded in 1905, in Chicago, the IWW drafted a constitution that borrowed a page from Karl Marx, calling on the workers of the world to “organize as a class, take possession of the means of production, abolish the wage system, and live in harmony with the Earth.” By the middle of the next decade, the IWW had chapters across America. The IWW’s 150,000 members took to the nation’s streets, spouting diatribes against monied interests as police endeavored to silence them with billy clubs.

The IWW’s foot soldiers were shunned even by mainstream groups such as the American Federation of Labor. Wobblies lived on the margins, fraternally bound as outsiders. Often they rode freight cars together from town to town. As they rattled along, they raised their voices to sing political anthems. One, entitled “Hallelujah, I’m a Bum,” had a line that went, “If I didn’t eat, I’d have money to burn.”

Hubbard and other lumber barons glowered as the IWW took a stand in the Pacific Northwest. In 1916, even before the U.S. entered World War I, the timber industry had begun supplying the Allied powers with lightweight, tensile Sitka spruce that was perfect for making airplanes. The IWW monkey-wrenched this effort in 1917 by rallying some 10,000 loggers into a three-month strike aimed at reducing the length of their workday from ten to eight hours. Once the men prevailed upon some of the logging companies to reduce hours, the Wobblies ended the strike but encouraged loggers employed by inflexible bosses to lollygag on the job. An eye-catching Wobbly sticker declared, “The hours are long and the pay is small. Take your time and buck them all.”

The stronghold of the 1917 IWW strike in Washington State lay just west of Centralia, amid the fog and spattering rain of the Olympic Peninsula, in towns such as Aberdeen and Hoquiam, where meagerly paid, left-leaning Finnish immigrants maintained large “Red Finn” halls at which the IWW’s leading luminaries—poet and journalist Ralph Chaplin, for instance—stopped to lecture. The IWW didn’t yet have a strong organized presence in Centralia, though it wasn’t for lack of trying. In 1915, vigilantes marched a group of Wobblies out of town. In 1917, the IWW opened up a local hall, but the landlord soon evicted them under public pressure. After the Wobblies rented a new space, Centralia’s Commercial Club met to consider a plan to “take matters into their own hands,” according to the Chronicle.

Hubbard was among the residents of Centralia intent on deflecting the IWW’s encroachment. In May 1918, during a parade that was part of a fundraising drive for the town’s chapter of the Red Cross, Hubbard’s Elks detoured from the route to raid Centralia’s IWW hall. They burned the union’s typewriter along with its files and newspaper archives. They carried the IWW’s Victrola and rolltop desk into the middle of Tower Avenue, then held an impromptu street auction to benefit the Red Cross. Hubbard himself scored the desk, which he donated to Centralia’s chamber of commerce. Meanwhile, the half-dozen Wobblies lingering inside the hall were “lifted by their ears into a truck,” according to one report, and taken to a nearby field, where they were flogged with sticks and ax handles.

The following summer, the Wobblies again tried to make inroads in Centralia. A logger named Britt Smith was able to convince the owner of the Roderick Hotel to rent the bottom of her building to the IWW for use as a hall. Smith moved in on September 1, 1919. He set up an apartment in the back and appointed the front with furniture. He had good reason to hope that the hall would grow into a sort of community center. On the Olympic Peninsula, the sprawling Red Finn halls had libraries and gymnasiums. Labor groups used the facilities for union business—meetings and fundraisers and such—and also for wiener roasts and wedding showers, plays and funerals.

But as Smith harbored dreams of a promising Wobbly future in Centralia, he also worried that the union’s opponents might try to rid the town of its despised red blight once and for all. In June 1919, the Centralia chamber of commerce met to discuss the Wobbly problem. It formed a Citizens Protective Association and made Hubbard its chair. When the association gathered at Centralia’s Elks Club on October 20, Hubbard pressed the police chief to force the Wobblies out of town. The chief declined, saying there was nothing illegal about the IWW being there. If he was the head of police, Hubbard shouted, he would toss the Wobblies out right away.

Later that night, Hubbard formed another committee, this one dedicated to seeking extralegal methods of evicting the Wobblies. Warren Grimm was named chair. Grimm’s experience with communism, and his disdain for it, was well known in town. During the war, he had been stationed in Siberia. What he saw there disgusted him. In a guest column for the Chronicle, he once sniffed, “Vladivostock, although a city of 125,000, has neither sewerage nor water systems.” In June 1918, when an IWW sympathizer named Tom Lassiter—a partially blind man—was attacked in Centralia, Grimm took the side of his assailants. Lassiter ran a newspaper stand selling labor rags such as the Industrial Worker. Two thugs kidnapped him, drove him out of town, and threw him into a ditch. Discussing the incident with a fellow lawyer, Grimm said, “That’s the proper way to treat such a fellow.” Soon after, in a Labor Day speech delivered in Centralia’s Riverside Park, Grimm fulminated about “the American Bolsheviki—the industrial workers of the world.”

No wonder, then, that the Wobblies feared the first Armistice Day might bring fresh trouble. They met the night before the parade to hatch a plan: They would secret guns to strategic positions in and around the hall, from which they could protect it. If the parade, led by Hubbard, turned into the sort of attack they’d seen before, they’d be ready.

When Grimm ordered the Legionnaires to halt at the Roderick, the Wobblies on the lookout had only to raise and cock their guns. When several of Grimm’s men burst into motion, hurling themselves at the IWW hall’s locked door and breaking the large storefront window, the Wobblies took aim. As shattered glass flew, five gunmen had Grimm in their sight.

IV.

Three of the men were a block to the east, across a set of railroad tracks, lying prone on Seminary Ridge. The elevated position gave them a bird’s-eye view of Tower Avenue. Another Wobbly, O.C. Bland, a father of seven, was situated across the street from the Roderick, wielding a .25-35 rifle in an upstairs room of the Arnold Hotel. He was in such a hurry to get the barrel of his gun out the window that he smashed the glass and cut a bloody gash into the back of his hand.

A block away, in the Avalon Hotel, was a large mustached man who had just arrived in Centralia. At a meeting in the IWW hall the night before, he’d mentioned that his name was Davis, but no one seemed to know him, and there was something clownish about him: When presented with the challenge of sneaking a rifle into the Avalon to avoid suspicion, he tried stuffing it down the leg of his pant. His stiff gait prompted other Wobblies to laugh, so he wrapped the gun in an overcoat. Now he was aiming the rifle through the slit of an open window.

What did Davis see, peering down? Some historians contend that, as the rest of the Armistice Day parade moved down Tower Avenue, Grimm shouted, “Boys, aren’t you with us?” He tried to beckon some of the marchers back to help with the Legionnaires’ attack on the Wobblies’ hall. A corollary theory holds that Grimm channeled his athletic past. Did he put the Wedge, the maneuver from his college days, into action as his men charged the hall? Did he lead the way? There is, of course, no footage of Centralia’s Armistice Day parade, but it seems likely that Grimm, at the very least, took part in the assault.

Perhaps no one inside the IWW hall was more willing to fire upon the Legionnaires than Wesley Everest.

At about 2:35 p.m., a few moments after the violence began, Grimm was struck in the chest by a bullet fired from above. It likely came from Davis’s gun, aiming from across the street. Grimm staggered half a block to a shed behind a candy store, where he told a doctor—a fellow Legionnaire who’d raced to help him—that he felt “an awful pain” in his stomach. By the time he climbed into the car that rushed him toward Centralia’s hospital, his wound was as “big as an inkwell,” according to a fellow passenger. Grimm would not survive the day.

From his perch in the Avalon, Davis could see a Legionnaire rushing north on Tower Avenue. His name was Arthur McElfresh. He’d fought in the Argonne Forest and now, at 26, was the manager of the Prigmore & Sears pharmacy. With a few other Legionnaires, he found cover behind a building located some 50 feet from the IWW hall, on the same side of the street. When McElfresh peered around the corner to look at the Roderick, he took a fatal bullet to the head. It’s impossible to say with certainty who shot him, but it was likely Davis, who would have had a clear line of sight on McElfresh.

The three gunmen on Seminary Ridge began shooting, peppering the parade’s marchers and spectators. Most of the crowd dispersed in a frenzy, unsure of where the shots were coming from. Centralia’s Legionnaires, however, kept pouring into the IWW Hall—they were trained soldiers and undeterred by artillery fire.

Seven Wobblies waited inside the hall, and they were the salt of the earth. Their leader, Britt Smith, was a native of southwestern Washington, who walked with a limp. In time, legal papers would describe him as “sober, honest and reasonably industrious.” Bert Faulkner, a 31-year-old veteran, had attended high school with Grimm in Centralia. He was missing his left middle finger, the result of a logging accident. Mike Sheehan, a Wobbly elder in his sixties, was a Spanish-American War vet who had been involved in organized labor ever since he joined his father’s butcher’s union at the age of eight. Another man in the hall was a minister’s son and ideologue named Ray Becker. Twenty-six years old, Becker had fled divinity school to work in the woods of Wisconsin, Illinois, and Minnesota. He’d served jail time for evading the draft, and arrived in Centralia just two days before the parade, with a zealot’s fire for social justice and a .38 pistol.

But perhaps no one inside the IWW hall was more willing to fire upon the Legionnaires than Wesley Everest. He was 28 and handsome, with red hair. He crouched in the back of the hall with an Army-issue .45 automatic pistol. Within moments he would turn himself into a folk hero, the subject of myth. 

By the mid-1910s, the IWW had 150,000 members.

V.

John Dos Passos, one of America’s most widely read 20th-century writers, would later refer to Everest, a World War I vet, as a “sharpshooter,” alleging that he fought in the trenches of France. In his landmark novel 1919, Dos Passos claimed that Everest earned “a medal for a crack shot.” Elsewhere, Dos Passos made Everest sound like Daniel Boone, writing of the veteran, “His folks were of the old Tennessee and Kentucky stock of woodsmen and squirrel hunters.” Others have traded on the salacious tale that Everest married and fathered a child with Marie Equi, an Oregon lesbian, physician, and Wobbly icon.

None of this was true. Everest was a hard-luck case and a nobody who, by odd twists of fate, found himself at the center of a historic street battle on Armistice Day. He grew up on a farm in tiny Newberg, Oregon, and his life was shaped by trauma. His father, a schoolteacher and postmaster, died before Everest was even a teenager. In 1904, when he was 13, Everest’s mother was thrown from the seat of a horse buggy. Her head hit a rock and she died hours later, leaving behind seven orphans. “We children were distributed among aunts and other relatives,” his younger brother Charles wrote in a 1977 letter that offers one of the few original accounts of Everest’s life.

For Everest, the third-oldest child, the fatal accident gave way to an unsettled existence. At first he lived on a great-aunt’s farm outside Portland, and then, when milking cows no longer agreed with him, he ran away. He wasn’t yet 15. “I do not know where he went or what he did,” Charles wrote, “but I heard he was felling timber in the woods at age 17.” Charles didn’t see his brother again until 1911, when Everest got a job on the railroad near where Charles lived. “He worked a short time,” Charles wrote, “and disappeared.”

Everest was working for the IWW by the age of 21. In 1913, he was on Oregon’s southern coast, in the village of Marshfield, organizing a logging strike summed up eloquently in a headline that appeared in The Coos Bay Harbor: “35 Men Refuse to Work in Deep Mud. Strike for Less Hours and More Pay.” The six-week campaign failed. Along with another Wobbly leader, Everest was escorted out of town by what The Coos Bay Times called a “committee” of 600 armed citizens—a group that included “practically every businessman in Marshfield.” The men dragged Everest through the streets until he was scarcely able to walk. They forced him to kneel and kiss the American flag. They put him on a boat bound for a distant beach. And they advised him to never return to Marshfield, “as he might,” in the newspaper’s words, “suffer greater violence.”

When Everest was conscripted in 1917, it was into a special contingent of the Army that logged spruce for airplanes in western Washington. He stubbornly resisted the lessons of Marshfield. During his 16-month Army hitch, he spent much of his time in the stockade, repeatedly punished for refusing to salute the American flag. “In the mornings,” writes John McClelland Jr., the author of Wobbly War: The Centralia Story, “Everest would be let out of the stockade at reveille when the flag was raised. Everest would refuse to salute whereupon he would be marched back to the stockade for another day.”

Everest arrived in Centralia in the spring of 1919, and he liked to wear his Army uniform around town. It allowed him to blend in, and he likely donned it on a visit to the Elks’ clubhouse, where a group of concerned Centralia citizens gathered that October to discuss the threat of organized labor. He came away convinced that the town’s citizens were determined to shoot up the IWW hall on Armistice Day. “When those fellows come,” he told other Wobblies at their own meeting, “they will come prepared to clean us out, and this building will be honeycombed with bullets inside of ten minutes.”

It was Everest who argued that the Wobblies should arm themselves for the parade. Listening to him make his case, 21-year-old IWW logger Loren Roberts concluded that Everest was “a desperate character. He didn’t give a goddamn for nothing. He didn’t give a damn whether he got killed or not.”

Everest had been right that the Legionnaires were planning an attack. He was wrong, though, about the hall being “honeycombed with bullets.” When Grimm’s men charged, they were unarmed.

VI.

As the Legionnaires forced their way inside the hall, Everest and Ray Becker, the minister’s son, shot wildly, hitting no one. The vets kept coming. Four Wobblies, including Becker, ran to the back porch of the Roderick, where they hid in an unused freezer. Everest kept running, past the porch and into an alley. Men in military uniform sprinted after him. He kept shooting, and this time his aim was good. Ben Casagranda, a Legionnaire and the owner of a Centralia shoeshine parlor, fell to the ground with a bullet in his gut. Another veteran, John Watt, fell beside him, hit in the spleen. Watt would survive; Casagranda would not.

The Legionnaires, who greatly outnumbered the Wobblies, began asking neighbors of the Roderick for their weapons. Some broke into a hardware store, searching for guns and cartridges. A few who were still unarmed followed Everest at a careful distance.

Everest scrambled west down alleyways, through vacant lots, and past horse stables. He was moving toward the Skookumchuck River, less than half a mile from the IWW hall. On the north bank were farms and forests through which he could escape into the mist.

As he ran, Everest stopped every so often to hide behind a building and shoot at the soldiers on his trail. He missed, wasting bullets. When he got to the river, it was swollen with autumn rains and moving too quickly to cross. Everest was trapped.

The Legionnaires began asking neighbors for their weapons. Some broke into a hardware store, searching for guns and cartridges.

F.B. Hubbard’s nephew, Dale, lumbered toward him, pointing a pistol at Everest as two other Legionnaires hurried to assist. He instructed Everest to drop his gun. Like Grimm, Dale Hubbard had played football at the University of Washington. He’d served in France, with a division of forestry engineers, and gotten married a month earlier. He was 26. He’d borrowed the pistol he was holding from someone he’d encountered en route to the riverbank. The gun didn’t work, though—Dale was bluffing.

Everest didn’t know this, and he likely regarded Dale’s steady pointing of the weapon as a death threat. Still, he didn’t acquiesce to the command that he drop his pistol. Instead, according to legal papers, Everest hurled “defiant curses” at Dale. When Dale moved toward him, Everest fired repeatedly, wounding Dale repeatedly. Dale fell to the ground. He would die that night. 

Everest had just shot a veteran in front of two other soldiers, and his gun was now out of bullets. He tried to reload, but Dale Hubbard’s allies tackled him. The Legionnaires kicked him in the head, drawing blood. When he refused to walk, they strung a belt around his neck and dragged him a mile to the Centralia jail.

The assault on the IWW hall.

VII.

As Everest was hauled through town, no one asked questions. Instead, a crowd grew around him, convinced he was evil, and eventually he found himself “in the vanguard of a howling, sneering mob,” one witness wrote decades later in the Chronicle. “His head was a bloody mass of welts from both men and women who dashed out sporadically from the curb to pummel him with their fists.”

Someone in the mob threw a hangman’s noose around a light pole, according to one eyewitness. Everest was led beneath it. As he stood waiting for his end, he berated the crowd, calling them “cowards, rats, and Hubbard’s hirelings.” As the crowd aggravated for the Wobbly’s demise, an elderly woman intervened and begged Everest’s tormenters not to hang him.

Soldiers lifted Everest off the ground by his neck and feet like a sack of potatoes. They tossed him into a jail cell. As he lay in a pool of blood, squads of Legionnaires combed the streets of Centralia looking for other Wobblies. The IWW hall had been ransacked and destroyed. Mobs burned the Wobblies’ furniture in the street, along with piles of books and labor newspapers. They tore a porch off the side of the Roderick, prompting the building’s worried owner, Mary McAllister, to hastily install an American flag in her window lest the whole place be leveled.

Across the street, O.C. Bland wrapped a towel around his bloody hand. He left the Arnold Hotel, crossed Tower Avenue, and walked east, hoping to convalesce at a friend’s. When he reached Seminary Ridge, he encountered Davis, the crack Wobbly gunman who had likely killed two people that day. The Legionnaires were searching for him. When The New York Times reported on the hunt the following morning, it wrote that the servicemen “searched the highways and byways for all suspicious persons and then sent out parties into the timbered country around the city.”

When they could not find Davis in the open air, the Legionnaires stormed a seedy, smoky pool hall. According to the Times, they “lined about 100 persons against the wall and searched them.” Sixteen men carrying IWW cards were arrested. At least 25 alleged Wobblies ended up in Centralia’s jail alongside Everest.

At 5 p.m., Centralia’s Elks and Legion Post #17 gathered for an emergency meeting in the Union Loan & Trust Building. They adjourned briefly to return home for their guns, then convened again to devise a plan of action, booting anyone who was neither an Elk nor a Legionnaire from the room.

Shortly after the men emerged at 7 p.m., they arrived at the jail in a caravan of six vehicles, each of which had its headlights switched off. The men occupying the vehicles had no problem getting inside. The jail was guarded by a lone watchman, and they were operating under cover of darkness—someone, possibly Centralia’s mayor, had managed to temporarily cut the electricity flowing from the town’s power plant.

“The first person to enter the jail was F.B. Hubbard,” Esther Barnett Goffinet, daughter of Wobbly Eugene Barnett, wrote in her 2010 book, Ripples of a Lie. “Someone in front of the jail turned their headlights on and Hubbard yelled, ‘Turn off that light! Some IWW son-of-a-bitch might see our faces.’” 

It’s not clear that Hubbard actually said this—or that he was even at the jail that night. Goffinet’s source was a pair of affidavits given several years later by two Wobbly prisoners with an ax to grind. Still, the vignette gets the deeper story right. Working his connections and exercising his clout, Hubbard had spent much of 1919 quarterbacking Centralia’s war against the red scourge. Now his ugly hopes were coming to fruition.

The posse dragged Everest outside, where a crowd of about 2,000 people were now “swarming like bees,” the Tacoma News-Tribune reported. “They were rough men, angry, scornful men whose pockets bulged menacingly with the weapons they made small effort to conceal.” Some in the crowd wanted every single Wobbly in Centralia to hang. They shouted, “Lynch ’em!”

The caravan moved west, bound for the broad Chehalis River. Everest was defiant. “I got my man and done my duty,” he said, not specifying which of his victims he intended to kill. “String me up now if you want to.”

Men who were never charged in court knotted a noose to a crossarm of a bridge over the Chehalis. They put it around Everest’s neck and let him drop. A moment later they heard a low moan and knew that Everest was still alive—they’d flubbed the hanging. They pulled him up. They found a longer rope and let Everest drop again. This time his neck snapped. When at last his body went limp, the vigilantes in the caravan turned their headlights on so they could take aim. They shot some 20 or 30 bullets into Everest’s corpse.

They left his body dangling. Early the next morning, November 12, someone cut the rope. That evening, the Seattle Star reported, Everest’s corpse “was dragged through the streets. The body was taken to the jail and placed in a cell in full view of 30 alleged IWW prisoners.” 

“The sight was intended as an object lesson not only for the prisoners huddled in their cells,” the Star noted, “but to all men who fail to respect the men who fought for the United States.”

VIII.

In the lyrics to a 1920 song titled “Wesley Everest,” Wobbly Ralph Chaplin channeled Christ’s crucifixion as he envisioned the activist hanging from a noose. “Torn and defiant as a wind-lashed reed,” the song goes, “a rebel unto Caesar—then as now—alone, thorn crowned, a spear wound in His side.” In The Centralia Conspiracy, a book published the same year, Chaplin burnished Everest’s martyr status by suggesting that his killers had castrated him. “In the automobile, on the way to the lynching,” Chaplin writes, “he was unsexed by a human fiend, a well known Centralia business man.”

The story of Everest’s castration is arguably the most remembered detail of the Centralia tragedy. It is so widely accepted that Howard Zinn presented it as fact in A People’s History of the United States. The story is likely bogus, however. In a meticulous 1986 essay, Wesley Everest, IWW Martyr, author Thomas Copeland makes clear that, in late 1919, not a single report—from journalists, from Everest’s fellow Wobblies, or from the coroner—mentioned castration.

Still, Chaplin’s mythmaking is nothing compared with the stagecraft of the trial that ensued after the Armistice Day violence. In early 1920, in a courthouse in Montesano, Washington, 11 Wobblies stood accused of committing murder during the shootout. To intimidate the jury, Hubbard’s company joined other citizens in paying 50 World War I veterans $4 a day to sit in the gallery dressed in uniform. Outside the courtroom, the soldiers enjoyed free meals at Montesano’s city hall and met trains to discourage IWW supporters from disembarking.

The troops camped outside the courthouse for two weeks and stirred such fear that two jurors secretly carried guns.

The judge presiding over the case, John M. Wilson, refused to let the jury consider the buildup to the shootout—the 1918 attack on Centralia’s IWW hall, for instance, and the October meeting at the Elks Club to discuss the “Wobbly problem.” Prosecutor Herman Allen, meanwhile, turned the proceedings into a circus. Mid-trial, Allen summoned assistance from the Army as what he called a “precautionary measure” against Wobbly violence. Eighty enlisted men were dutifully sent to town. The troops, who arrived armed, camped outside the courthouse for two weeks and stirred such fear that two jurors secretly carried guns in case of a Wobbly attack. Their fear was unfounded, however. Nobody on the union’s side was calling for an uprising in Montesano. In fact, leftist protestors stayed away from the heavily patrolled town.

For the Wobblies on trial, there was one sliver of light: Davis, the stranger who’d probably killed two Legionnaires, had escaped. Somehow, despite extensive searching, Davis had vanished, never to be found. The only other Wobbly known to have killed anyone was Everest, and he had been lynched. As it sought payback for the death of four Legionnaires—Grimm, Hubbard, Casagranda, and McElfresh—the prosecution offered a tenuous argument that the defendants were to blame.

Allen tried to build a case that Wobbly Eugene Barnett, not Davis, had leaned out the window of the Avalon Hotel to kill Grimm. Credible testimony, however, suggested that Barnett wasn’t even in the Avalon when the shooting broke out; he managed to wriggle free of first-degree-murder charges. In the end, the jury zeroed in on the planning that had gone into the Wobblies’ armed resistance, and found seven men, including Barnett, Ray Becker, O.C. Bland, and Britt Smith, guilty of second-degree murder. Each received a 25-to-40-year sentence.

Wesley Everest

IX.

Wesley Everest, Warren Grimm, F.B. Hubbard—indeed, everyone who walked the streets of Centralia in 1919—were bit players in a larger drama. Throughout American history, corrupt power had always found a way to justify cruelty by reframing truth and instilling fear. In 1830, when Andrew Jackson forced thousands of Native Americans west along what became known as the Trail of Tears, he asked, “What good man would prefer a country covered with forests and ranged by a few thousand savages to our extensive Republic, studded with cities, towns, and prosperous farms?” In Plessy v. Ferguson, the Supreme Court enshrined white supremacy under the false promise of separate but equal.

In the case of Centralia, the shootout shook an already anxious nation. Three days after it happened, The New York Times ran an editorial declaring that the incident “has probably done more than anything else to arouse the American people to the existence, not of a menace to their Government, but of human miscreants from whom no life is safe, however humble.” The Red Scare would die out in 1920, when the Justice Department lost face by issuing warnings about a May Day anarchist uprising that never happened. Still, Centralia left its imprint. A new suspicion had wormed its way into the back of the American mind. Citizens opposed to leftist politics now harbored a heightened sense that evil could emerge anywhere, even in the streets of a small town in the woods.

Centralia also afforded young J. Edgar Hoover an opening. At the time, Hoover was still living with his parents, but in the wake of the Armistice Day tragedy, the world opted to take him seriously. He ran with it. In a memo, he asked an aide to “obtain for me all the facts surrounding the Centralia matter.” The following month, four days before Christmas, at 4 a.m. in the frigid darkness, Hoover showed up at Ellis Island. The 249 Russian dissidents he had rounded up were herded toward a creaky old troopship that would carry them back to the Soviet Union. Soon, Hoover began compiling a file on Isaac Schorr, the activist lawyer who represented many Ellis Island detainees. Then, on January 2, 1920, Hoover orchestrated his biggest set of raids yet. This time, at least 3,000 suspected communists were captured in more than 30 U.S. cities—all on the same evening.

In time, Hoover became the most prominent reactionary public official in America. Instrumental in the FBI’s founding, he directed the agency for 48 years and kept secret files on thousands of Americans. When a reporter once asked him whether justice might play a role in addressing the civil rights movement, Hoover responded coolly, voicing words that might have played well in Centralia in 1919 (and the nation’s capital today). “Justice,” he said, “is merely incidental to law and order.”

Throughout the 1920s, a dedicated and conscientious Centralia lawyer, Elmer Smith, tried to fight Hoover’s law-and-order approach. He led a campaign to free the Wobblies convicted of conspiring to murder Legionnaires on the first Armistice Day, and he did so with such flourish that he once drew 5,000 people to a speech in Seattle. That day, Smith argued that the Northwest’s lumber barons, having sent the Centralia Wobblies to jail, also had the power to free them.

Smith got no judicial traction, though. The Wobblies languished in prison. One of them, an Irishman named James McInerney, died of tuberculosis in 1930 while behind bars. The following year, Eugene Barnett was allowed to go home to nurse his wife, who was sick with cancer. O.C. Bland was paroled soon after, and in 1933, Washington’s then governor, Clarence Martin, granted parole to three more Wobblies.

Only Ray Becker, the minister’s son, remained behind bars. Bitter, paranoid, and holding firm to his anti-capitalist convictions, Becker refused to seek parole. Instead, he wrote handwritten pleas—to newspapers and also to a judge—as he sought admissions of guilt from everyone he believed had conspired in framing him for murder. Becker did not leave jail until 1939, when Governor Martin announced that, after 18 years, he had served his time.

X.

The legacy of the Centralia shootout is still palpable in the town. In the center of its main green space, George Washington Park, fronted by a long, regal concrete walkway, is a bronze statue erected in 1924. The Sentinel features a helmeted World War I soldier, his lowered hands gently wrapped around the barrel of a rifle. An American flag flutters high on a pole behind him, and an inscription on the statue’s side honors Warren Grimm and the three other soldiers “slain on the streets of Centralia … while on peaceful parade wearing the uniform of the country they loyally and faithfully served.”

Not 200 feet from The Sentinel’s patinated nose, on the exterior wall of the Centralia Square Hotel, is a bright mural titled The Resurrection of Wesley Everest. Awash in splashy oranges and yellows, installed by artist Mike Alewitz in 1997, the mural depicts the lynched Wobbly with his arms held high in victory. Flames crackle beneath him; they signal, Alewitz has said, “discontent.”

When I visited Centralia not long ago, I stayed at the Square Hotel, so that every time I stepped into the street I found myself crossing the energetic force field between the statue and the mural. It was pouring rain most of the time I was in town, so usually I hurried, intent on staying dry and on ducking the bad municipal feng shui achieved by the memorials’ counterposition.

Once, though, heading out for an interview near the former home of the IWW, I paused in the space between. I watched as the flag above The Sentinel was pelted by steady rain. The shootout in Centralia was a fight over what that flag meant. One side wanted an America that was fair and equitable, framed by the right to free speech and steeped in justice for all. The other was mesmerized by the battlefield glory that the flag represented, the legacy of bloodshed knitted into its stars and stripes. In their opinion, such a legacy demanded obedience. It was worthy of vigilant defense, and if marginal citizens did not behave like 100 percent Americans, well, it didn’t matter if they got trampled.

Standing there, I wanted to believe that in the 101 years since the Centralia shootout, the Legionnaires’ cruel patriotism had withered away—that the intervening century had delivered the nation to a gentler, more humane outlook. But I knew that wasn’t completely true. In recent years, Donald Trump had resurrected the exclusionary nationalism of the early 20th century, justifying racist and xenophobic policies under the banner of making America “great” again. At the same time, a socialist was a legitimate contender for president—twice—and Black Lives Matter grew into the largest social justice movement in U.S. history. There was still hope, but it had to be nourished.

The rain picked up. I was running late. I hurried north toward the scene of battle.


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Do You Hear the People Sing?

Do You Hear The
People Sing?


Brutality and
resistance on the
front lines of
Hong Kong’s battle
for democracy.

The Atavist Magazine, No. 105


Lauren Hilgers lived in Shanghai for six years. Her articles have appeared in Harper’s, Wired, Bloomberg Businessweek, The New Yorker, and The New York Times Magazine. Her book Patriot Number One was a New York Times notable book in 2018.

Editor: Jonah Ogles
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Adam Przybyl
Illustrator: Mike McQuade

Published in July 2020

By the time Grace¹ arrived at Hong Kong Polytechnic University in November 2019, she had forgotten the date and the day of the week—the longer she spent protesting, the more time seemed to fray around the edges. She was battle hardened and exhausted. Hong Kong’s police were employing increasingly authoritarian tactics against pro-democracy protesters like her. She had become accustomed to the smell of tear gas and the sound of canisters squealing as they arced overhead. She knew the feel of protective gear on her face and the heft of flame-resistant gloves on her hands. Compared with those things, the date didn’t matter.

Grace is in her early twenties, a political-science student. She first joined the protests, hopeful and bold, in June 2019, during the annual candlelight vigil that takes place in Hong Kong on the anniversary of the Tiananmen Square massacre. She was intoxicated by the idea of the movement, the feeling of bodies united together in a cause. A swelling in the chest, a sense of hope and desperation—she had never experienced anything like it.

Months of sustained protest followed, and Hong Kong was haunted by scenes of violence in the streets, at the airport, and on the MTR (the city’s metro). Protesters initially had set out to derail an extradition bill that would allow the government to transport accused criminals to mainland China, but as law enforcement cracked down and videos of brutality spread, the movement’s focus shifted to ending police violence and demanding that all Hong Kongers be able to vote for the city’s highest-ranking officials. Despite those progressive goals, there was an end-of-days feeling to the protests. A disquieting thought hung in the back of Grace’s mind: Hong Kong was dying, and she was helping it make one last stand.

Huge marches were followed by smaller actions. Protesters broke up into leaderless pods. Years of arrests and kidnappings had made putting anyone in charge too risky. Protesters developed a strategy, embodied in the slogan “be water”—assemble for an instant, then drain through the surrounding streets—allowing them to clash with police and avoid arrest. It was inevitable, in retrospect, that the strategy would sometimes fail. That the water would pool and become trapped.

PolyU was a hive of activity when Grace arrived on what turned out to be November 14. Protesters had occupied the school and were using it as a base of operations. PolyU students who had joined the demonstrations prepared meals and set up a supply room full of clothes, gas masks, and first-aid materials. They put sleeping mats in the gym. Older protesters took younger ones under their wing. Some demonstrators set up lookouts on the roofs of school buildings, arming themselves with bows and arrows. In the student-government headquarters, a group gathered to discuss an action intended to stymie nearby traffic, bringing a busy part of Hong Kong to a standstill.

Over the previous five months, Grace had become an efficient, unflappable protester—a far cry from the person she had been before, someone unpolitical and naive. “I was just a normal girl in Hong Kong,” she said of her life before the movement. At PolyU, she knew how to keep calm, proceed from task to task, ready herself to face the police.

Looking back, she can’t remember the exact moment when law enforcement reached the campus—she only knows that the atmosphere changed. The bustle of preparation turned to confrontation and then panic. A protester watched from a rooftop as armored vehicles lined up below. As an opening salvo, police in SWAT gear shot canisters of tear gas into the building where the protester was perched. “I didn’t have any mask. I didn’t have anything on me,” the protester later said. “From that moment, I just thought, Oh God, they want us all to die.”

Hong Kong was not a democracy, but citizens held on dearly to the idea that it was at least autonomous.

A normal Hong Kong girl, according to Grace and other protesters, is a student who wears a uniform, works hard, and occasionally goes out to buy bubble tea with her friends. “In Hong Kong, children are scared of the sun,” a protester who goes by the alias V told me, only half joking. “They don’t like walking, and they don’t like running.” They study. They go to school. They come home. They don’t spend much time thinking about politics.

That was Grace growing up. She was born too late to remember a time when Hong Kong wasn’t part of the People’s Republic of China. The handover happened in 1997, after more than a decade of negotiations between Great Britain and the PRC. The new constitution, called the Basic Law, established the policy of “one country, two systems”—Hong Kong could govern itself for 50 years, during which Mainland China’s laws would not extend to the city. Still, the PRC held sway. The Basic Law, for instance, promised freedom of assembly and freedom of speech, but it gave the National People’s Congress in Beijing the power to interpret those rights. Hong Kong was not a democracy, but citizens held on dearly to the idea that it was at least autonomous.

During Grace’s childhood, Hong Kong had an independent judiciary and a freewheeling economy, with few of the controls that limited capital flows in the mainland. And as China’s economy gradually opened up, it offered substantial opportunities for Hong Kong’s elites, whom Beijing actively courted. In Hong Kong, business and governance are directly connected. Only half the seats in the city’s governing body, the Legislative Council (or LegCo), are elected by the people. The other half are reserved for so-called functional constituencies, industry-based voting blocs that effectively allow corporations to shape policy. As the businesses that formed those constituencies cozied up to mainland China, their interests aligned more and more with Beijing’s.

In 2003, a proposed national-security law that would have limited free speech and introduced the crimes of subversion, secession, and sedition—all of which are invoked to punish dissidents in the mainland—was scrapped after 500,000 people took to the streets in protest. (Organizers estimated the crowd at that size; police put the number at 350,000.) In 2010, people demonstrated again, calling for universal suffrage and protesting the arrest of Liu Xiaobo, a writer and activist from the mainland.

Grace, still in grade school at the time, was only vaguely aware of these events. She knew that her parents voted for pro-democracy candidates in LegCo elections, and she knew about the annual Tiananmen vigil, where people wearing white—a mourning color—lit candles and sang songs. Her perspective began to change in 2012, when the city’s National Education Services Center moved to instate a pro-China “moral and national education” curriculum in schools. Pamphlets promoting the curriculum were distributed throughout the city, emphasizing the need to build a national identity and criticizing multiparty systems for causing “malignant party struggle” in the United States and elsewhere. “We will never be independent,” the head of the National Education Services Center told CNN, “so we should learn to think the same way as China.”

That July, some 90,000 people, many of them students Grace’s age, took to the streets to protest what they saw as a brainwashing effort. (Police again put the turnout much lower, at around 32,000.) There was a hunger strike and an occupation of legislative offices. Grace didn’t join the demonstrations—her parents opposed them—but then the pro-China headmaster at her school instructed a group of students to circulate a petition in favor of the new education regime. Her peers asked Grace to add her name. “They weren’t mean about it,” she said. “They just wanted to get the signatures as fast as possible so they could get it over with.”

The petition prompted Grace to think about the ideas raised by the new curriculum and about her own cultural identity. Hong Kong was not mainland China, and she was not mainland Chinese. She was a Hong Konger. She found it annoying that the headmaster had foisted the petition on students. Grace refused to sign. It was the beginning of her political awakening.

She wasn’t alone. Across Hong Kong, there were teenagers who increasingly spent time estimating the value of the freedoms they enjoyed and guessing at Beijing’s intentions. Among them was V, an aspiring musician, whose sister also wanted to fight for democracy. Terra was another, a science student at Hong Kong Chinese University with an excellent GPA. Yet another, Jack, took cues from famous resistance leaders, reading Malcolm X and Frantz Fanon. All these young people would eventually wind up at PolyU when protesters occupied it. Like Grace, they later shared their stories with me.

First, though, came the Umbrella Revolution.

Pro-democracy legislators and activists staged a sit-in. They were arrested one by one, singing “Do You Hear the People Sing?” from the musical Les Misérables.

In 2014, Beijing proposed changes to how Hong Kong chose its most powerful official, the chief executive. Traditionally, the chief executive had been selected by a committee of electors, many of them loyal to Beijing. China’s new plan would allow Hong Kongers themselves to vote for their leader—so long as Beijing approved the candidates.

Thousands of citizens, led primarily by students, mounted a resistance. Grace joined a student strike, boycotting her classes. Other young people marched in front of then chief executive Leung Chun-ying’s home and outside the legislative building, where LegCo was required to approve China’s plan for it to go into effect. They erected tents along a stretch of highway next to the building and built a camp, a progressive community where art projects were scattered among supply caches and sleeping bags. Protesters set up barriers, distributed protective goggles, and organized first-aid teams. They established supply lines so they wouldn’t have to leave their positions; they could maintain the pressure day and night. There was even a study tent where students could go to keep up with their schoolwork.

Police in Hong Kong had dealt with large-scale protests for decades, but their response in 2014 was uncommonly aggressive. Hundreds of demonstrators were arrested. The police used tear gas for the first time since 2005, when they launched it into crowds protesting a World Trade Organization meeting. Law enforcement threw 87 canisters at the LegCo protesters, who carried umbrellas to shield themselves. Nineteen days into the 79-day protest, a TV news crew caught seven plainclothes police officers beating a protester named Ken Tsang on video and broadcast the footage to the city. Many Hong Kongers were outraged.

Despite police violence, the pro-democracy movement intended to remain peaceful. Johnson Yeung, a former leader of Hong Kong’s Federation of Students, an organization that represents student unions at Hong Kong’s universities, told me that protesters wanted to believe that their adversaries were rational actors. The thought was, as Yeung explained it, “If you provide some room for an authoritarian regime to coexist with you, then they will give you some allowances.”

As the protests stretched on, Grace became more and more interested in what was happening. Her father was moving in the opposite direction. “My dad thinks Hong Kong is free enough,” she said. He considered the protests disruptive. There were clashes with police in a residential neighborhood called Mong Kok. Traffic in the city often ground to a halt. Grace’s father didn’t see the ragtag beauty in the protest camp. “My dad wants a stable society and doesn’t want a ruin in the place where he lives,” Grace said.

The protests ended in December 2014 when a court ordered the camp outside LegCo cleared. Protesters dispersed largely without incident; by the time police showed up, many people had already left. Still, approximately 200 pro-democracy legislators and activists staged a sit-in. They were arrested one by one, singing “Do You Hear the People Sing?” from the musical Les Misérables.

The following June, the legislature voted against Beijing’s revised election plan. But it was a hollow victory—no other reforms were put forward, which meant that the chief executive would continue to be selected by committee.

Following the protest, the situation in Hong Kong worsened. In mainland China, a crackdown on lawyers and dissidents was underway, and Beijing’s harder line was increasingly felt in the city. Late in 2015, five Hong Kong booksellers who stocked books banned by Beijing were kidnapped and taken to mainland China; they subsequently resurfaced in videos admitting to crimes like “illegal book trading.” One of the accused confessed to involvement in a fatal drunk-driving incident. He was eventually convicted of “providing intelligence overseas.” (Since then, only one of the booksellers has been released; he fled to Taiwan.)

In the 2016 LegCo elections, six candidates were disqualified by Hong Kong’s pro-Beijing leaders for expressing support for the city’s independence. After the election, an additional six legislators were expelled from LegCo for the way they took the oath of office. Some coughed at key moments. Some mispronounced words—“People’s Republic of China” sounded more like “People’s Refucking of Jeena.” (The oath is recited in English.) Others shouted pro-democracy slogans, and one person spoke the words extremely slowly.

The following year, three of the Umbrella Revolution’s most vocal leaders were sentenced to several months in prison for their roles in the movement. Having a criminal record would prevent them from running for political office for five years.

By the time protests reignited in 2019, many young people felt that their strategy needed to change. “Beijing is writing the rules,” Yeung said. “It is hard to outcompete an opponent who is writing and breaking the rules whenever they want.” A consensus emerged that pacifism was not the only answer. “Through violence you recognize your own power,” said Jack. “You can stand up and oppose the government.” He considered Beijing a colonizer—and he was determined to fight back.

Grace didn’t want to go to her first demonstration alone. Her boyfriend, whom she met online before the protests started, wasn’t interested. While he supported the movement, he preferred to stay off the front lines. (He didn’t want to speak with me for this story.) Her older sister would join the protests, but not until later. Most of her friends were focused on their studies. They “didn’t have similar goals,” Grace said. “They would end up being soft protesters, rather than going to the front line.” Meanwhile, her father detested the protest movement more than ever; he thought Grace had been brainwashed by outside forces.

Grace had always considered herself an independent and self-sufficient person, but she worried about crowds and the potential for violence. So she called a friend, and on June 4 they made their way to the annual Tiananmen Square vigil in Hong Kong’s Victoria Park.

The 2019 memorial was charged. That February, Hong Kong’s government had proposed the extradition bill, the piece of legislation that would make it legal for people who were wanted for crimes in China—Hong Kongers such as the booksellers—to be extradited to the mainland. Protesters had been active ever since. On the daily news, Grace had watched the pro-democracy crowds grow. She was in university by then, and studying revolutionary movements in her classes. She watched the movie version of Les Mis over and over.

At the vigil, she lit a candle and kept close by her friend. She was awed by the crowd and the people around her. “I felt I was in union, that we all had the same beliefs and thoughts,” she said. “I could feel hope and love from the crowd.” Grace knew she would be back. Five days later, she headed out again.

The second protest Grace attended drew nearly a million people, according to organizers. (Police put the number at around 240,000.) Grace was still nervous, so she again went with her friend. A sea of people wearing white and holding signs packed Hong Kong’s roads. Grace and her friend left the protest before nightfall, when law enforcement moved in. The police clashed with the remaining protesters on the road outside LegCo.

Grace watched on television as protesters toppled traffic barriers and the police responded with pepper spray. She was home safe, but she didn’t want to be, not anymore. She decided to join the next protest, scheduled for June 12, in a more official capacity.

Hong Kong protesters communicated with one another on the messaging service Telegram and a website called LIHKG. The latter, a threaded discussion forum similar to Reddit, restricts connections to Hong Kong ISPs, which made it more difficult for outsiders to infiltrate the movement. Both allow users to remain anonymous.

Protesters took care to protect their identities. “I would not use my real phone,” Jack said. Like many, he used burners so the police couldn’t track him. Whenever possible, he didn’t use a phone at all. “People prefer to meet in private spaces face-to-face and not leave any record,” he said. Online, people rarely shared personal information, only what was necessary to prove they weren’t police: a snapshot of an ID or a staff card indicating where they worked—proof, presumably, that they weren’t law enforcement. The images often remained available for only a short time.

People used digital platforms to organize into teams—protest cells tasked with performing a singular function. A team might run supplies, provide first aid, clean up after protests, or protect the walls of Post-it notes that had popped up all over the city, filled with messages of support for the movement. Everything was fluid. Teams might decide to change function mid-protest or plan their own actions, apart from the big events.

Grace answered a call on Telegram to join a supply team. She would help gather masks, helmets, water, and umbrellas—whatever protesters needed to protect themselves—and distribute them at the planned action on June 12. Grace arrived at a safe house the day before the protest. There were students and parents, wealthy people and workers. Veteran demonstrators taught her how to use gas masks and to protect fellow protesters. When returning to the safe house, for instance, she shouldn’t take a direct route, and she should never follow the same path twice. Some demonstrators changed clothes several times during a protest, to throw off anyone who might be following them.

The next day, more than 40,000 people gathered outside LegCo to protest the reading of the controversial extradition bill, the first step to its passage. Grace ran into the crowd, dropping off water and first-aid supplies. The reading was canceled, and a few hours later the police rushed the crowd. Grace fled. It was the first time she’d heard the smack of rubber bullets, the pop and whistle of tear-gas canisters. “I saw the movement of the crowd and grabbed my teammate’s hand,” she says. “We didn’t know where it would be safe to go.”

Some of Grace’s team wanted to continue ferrying supplies; others ran toward the confrontation with police. Grace followed the chatter on Telegram and LIHKG from the safe house, where she’d made it unharmed. She sent updates on what police were doing—their location, where they were headed—so that her teammates could get out safely.

The police penned hundreds of protesters in the courtyard of the CITIC Tower, an office building across the street from LegCo, and fired tear gas into the crowd. Videos spread online of protesters trying to get into the tower even as smoke from the courtyard filled the lobby. The police beat people with batons and pelted them with rubber bullets. As avenues of escape opened and closed, Grace did her best to inform her teammates.

Once the police ended their assault, the demonstration dispersed. Four people were later arrested at a hospital while being treated for injuries. In the days that followed, Hong Kong’s chief executive, Carrie Lam, justified the aggressive response by claiming that there had been a riot. The protesters talked on message boards: Had anyone seen a riot? Grace hadn’t. No one had.

Grace’s world was the streets. Every time she went out, she crossed paths with people who were at once anonymous and somehow close to her.

The police violence on June 12 made the protesters feel more united than ever. They came up with a list of five demands: withdrawal of the extradition bill; Lam’s resignation; an investigation into police behavior;  withdrawal of the designation of the protest as a riot; and release of all arrested demonstrators. Four days later, Grace joined roughly two million protesters in the streets. (Police estimated the crowd at 338,000.)


The protests became a gathering storm—more frequent, closer together. On July 1, the 22nd anniversary of Hong Kong’s handover from the British, organizers estimated that 550,000 people rallied in the city. (The police reported around 180,000.) That night, protesters broke into the LegCo building. They unfurled the flag of British colonial Hong Kong and graffitied messages on the walls. A photo of the words “It was you who taught me peaceful protests were useless” went viral. Within weeks there would be a social workers’ march, a march of the elderly, a march for mothers—all of them in solidarity with the student-led movement.

Grace was almost never home. Her world was the streets. Every time she went out, she crossed paths with people who were at once anonymous and somehow close to her. She ran through a number of positions on teams organized by friends of friends or people she’d met on Telegram. She served as a lookout. She helped post art and spray graffiti. Eventually, she specialized in neutralizing tear gas. Wearing flame-resistant gloves, sometimes carrying tongs and a big water bottle, she would toss canisters away from protesters or douse them until they sputtered out.

Grace had conviction, one of her teammates said. She believed the movement could succeed. And she was happy to be working alone, without friends or her boyfriend or sister along. She knew people who protested with family members or significant others—though rarely on the same team—and recognized how difficult it was for them. “I saw people hug or kiss and then split up,” she said. “The couples would cry and say, like, ‘You need to come back safely and I will be here waiting for you!’” Grace was relieved that she didn’t have to worry about her boyfriend.

Her father called her phone nonstop when she went out. He demanded that she come home. Whenever she left the house, he shouted after her, “Don’t fight with the police!”

At the end of June 2019, a survey conducted by the University of Hong Kong found that a record number of city residents identified as Hong Kongers rather than simply Chinese. Meanwhile, the number of respondents who felt proud of being Chinese had dropped to an all-time low. Support for the pro-democracy movement was mounting.

Lam pledged to withdraw the extradition bill, but the protests didn’t stop. Amnesty International released a report decrying the treatment of protesters in custody, which in some cases the organization claimed amounted to torture—beatings, delayed access to medical care, forcibly shining laser pointers into detainees’ eyes. Journalists wore helmets and goggles to press conferences to protest what they described as a deliberate attempt by police to target the press. Law enforcement remained defiant, defending every action.

On July 21, following a protest in one of Hong Kong’s business districts, hundreds of men appeared on the streets in Yuen Long, a neighborhood an hour from downtown by metro. They wore white T-shirts—by then protesters had begun wearing black, while supporters of Beijing had adopted white—and carried metal bars and wooden clubs. At 10:30 p.m., the men began attacking people. Around 100 of them descended on a metro station and set upon anyone wearing black. Others were caught up in the violence: a pregnant woman, a journalist, random subway passengers. Local law enforcement arrived at 11 p.m. but did nothing. By the time police showed up with riot gear, nearly three hours later, the attackers were gone.

The pro-democracy protesters grew suspicious. Using thugs to carry out orders from the state is common practice in mainland China. A video circulated showing police officers talking to the men in white instead of arresting them. Law enforcement would take 37 men into custody over the next few months, on suspicion that they were linked to local triads, or criminal gangs. Only seven were formally charged.

Everyone felt the antagonism building. Grace narrowly missed being hit in the head with a rubber bullet at a protest outside the Sham Shui Po police station. Terra, the science student, recalled an officer pointing his rifle at her and her friends while they captured the scene on their phones. On August 11, police disguised as protesters attacked a dispersing crowd, beating demonstrators and crushing one student’s head against the concrete. He begged for mercy and spit out teeth as he laid in a pool of blood.

On August 31, protesters defied a ban on demonstrations and used the metro to move around the city, popping up in one place, then quickly moving to another. At Prince Edward Station in Mong Kok, on a platform packed with families and commuters, an alarm went off, and the police swarmed. They ran through the crowds, pushing people aside, looking for anyone in black. Videos showed people on the ground, putting up no resistance as police beat them with batons; first-aid providers being turned away from a man who was apparently unconscious; a couple huddled next to a stopped train, crying out as the police showered them with pepper spray.

Terra was one stop away, in Yau Ma Tei station, when a train from Prince Edward pulled in. “Suddenly, I saw people screaming and crying, and a lot of blood and umbrellas. It was a mess,” she said. Terra was not on a first-aid team; her job was cleaning up after protests. So she started picking up discarded gas masks while others tried to help the injured. She didn’t realize that the police were on their way. When they appeared, Terra dropped her bags and ran toward the escalator. Officers grabbed at her arms. “I felt like I’m not prepared to fight back. I’m not strong enough to push away a police officer,” she said. But she made it out of the station.

There were other incidents, too many to list. By the end of the summer, it was all but impossible to keep track. For Grace, time was starting to blur. More and more, she found herself on the front lines, joining protesters like Jack whose job it was to clash with police directly.

Jack wielded an umbrella and wore a gas mask so he could hold his ground as long as possible when the police charged. That helped people behind him get away, flowing down side streets unharmed. Front-liners also began participating in the targeted destruction of property. “You started to have more clear goals as time went on,” Jack said. “It was a faster pace.” Protesters broke windows in government buildings and in shops associated with organized crime, which seemed to have joined forces with the police. They threw Molotov cocktails and set things on fire. “You just judge there is not a lot of police coming yet, you destroy a China Bank machine or whatever, and then you go,” Jack said.

In September, an Indonesian journalist was blinded in one eye after being hit with a rubber bullet fired by police. In October and early November, at least two protesters were shot with live rounds. Grace was determined but fatigued. She kept fighting, knowing that her side, while not outmanned, was certainly outgunned. “We don’t have what they have,” one protester told me, referring to the police. “They have no limits on hurting us.”

Anyone could join the protests. Office ladies in high heels could make Molotov cocktails on their way to work.

In the early hours of November 4, a student named Alex Chow fell from a parking garage as police used tear gas in a nearby clearance operation. He died four days later, and Hong Kong erupted with renewed vigor. Protesters launched a campaign they called “blossom everywhere,” which employed hit-and-run techniques intended to cause chaos. They appeared at night, stacking bricks in roads like mini Stonehenges, aiming to snarl traffic. Sometimes they strung together metal street barriers, connecting them with zip ties to make them harder to clear away. The actions were small, quick—multiple groups would engage at once in activities all over the city, then recede into the darkness. Anyone could join the protests, even for a moment, and then return to normal life. Office ladies in high heels, Yeung said, could make Molotov cocktails on their way to work.

When the “blossom everywhere” offensive launched, Hong Kong’s universities were logical places for protesters to congregate. Many are located on major thoroughfares and near the bridges and tunnels that connect parts of the city. Even as classes continued, schools became de facto protest headquarters. The police knew this was happening, and on November 11, they bombarded Hong Kong Chinese University (CUHK) and PolyU with tear gas—the start of what would become a protracted battle.

Grace started the week at CUHK. She still made it home on some nights, hitchhiking to her parents’ apartment. When she stayed on campus, she slept outside next to other students. They shivered as nighttime temperatures dropped. “Everyone was getting hypothermia,” Grace said.

CUHK seemed to become the center of the clashes. Students threw debris onto Tolo Highway, located below the hillside campus. When hundreds of police charged on a bridge over the highway, protesters fled under a torrent of tear gas. Outside CUHK, the police parked vans and set up a perimeter, blocking the main entrance while attempting to break through barriers the protesters were defending. Protesters formed human chains to transport supplies across campus. Terra opened the doors of a student-run co-op to the newly resident protesters. She made them cups of noodles.

On November 13, a Wednesday, the courts rejected an appeal from students to ban the police from entering campuses without a warrant. The same day, Grace left CUHK. Other protesters convinced her to head to PolyU, where students needed help. They wanted to block one of Hong Kong’s most important arteries, ratcheting up the chaos engulfing the city.

The campus felt chaotic, like the protesters were making it up as they went. 

Hong Kong Polytechnic University is a fortress of red tile. It sits above the entrance of the cross-harbor tunnel, which allows commuters to move between the Kowloon Peninsula and Hong Kong Island, located off the city’s southern coast. Despite the campus’s centrality, its design separates students from the urban fray—the cluster of highways, train tracks, and tunnels that surround it. The school’s buildings, each designated by a letter of the English alphabet, form a linked perimeter punctuated by barrel-like turrets, which students call cores. The structures are so tightly connected that a person can wander from one end of campus to the other and only rarely set foot outside. Amid all the tile, on the northwest side of campus is a white building, designed by Zaha Hadid, that houses the university’s design school and resembles a giant cruise ship.

PolyU is accessible almost exclusively by pedestrian overpasses, bridges, and stairways. In some places, these pass below the elevated roads around campus; in others they’re perched above traffic. At first this layout seemed to protesters like an advantage. They could block access points with bricks and furniture, keeping the police at bay. They slept in a gym at night and sprawled in tiled courtyards during the day, their voices echoing off the towers around them. Someone made signs out of cardboard directing protesters to available showers. People practiced archery and made slingshots out of bamboo. Some practiced throwing Molotov cocktails into an empty pool, to refine their aim. They were getting ready for whatever came next.

On the Thursday when Grace arrived at PolyU, protesters had already managed to block the cross-harbor tunnel, setting toll booths on fire and throwing down debris from an overpass they’d occupied. The campus felt chaotic, like the protesters were making it up as they went. There wasn’t enough food. “People were feeling distressed,” said Jack, who arrived at PolyU around the same time Grace did.

Grace volunteered to mix Molotov cocktails. To ensure she was getting the balance of gas and oil just right, she threw test explosives down an empty walkway and measured how close she could get before feeling the heat. (The farther away the better, to help keep the police at bay.) Grace wasn’t as effective as some others on the front lines. She wasn’t strong enough, for instance, to throw the Molotovs very far. Here was something she could do: test the heat of the bombs against her own skin.

On Friday, November 15, the police had yet to charge the barricades around PolyU. But the protesters knew this would happen at some point. It was hard not to think of Tiananmen Square. What if the police used live rounds? What if demonstrators were arrested and sent to mainland China, despite the extradition bill’s demise? The protesters decided to act preemptively. They piled debris in the roads closest to campus and set it on fire.

The roads burned for hours before the police came, on Saturday. They positioned water cannons and armored vehicles on the far side of a sea of bricks scattered across the asphalt at PolyU’s main entrance. Grace and Jack joined students gathering at the campus’s access points. Vans and officers approached from the south, spraying water and a blue liquid spiked with pepper spray. The protesters, some of whom assembled into a tightly packed testudo formation beneath umbrellas or scavenged pieces of debris, had amassed Molotov cocktails and boxes of bricks. They could throw them by hand or launch them from makeshift catapults. Some protesters held walkie-talkies, to pass along instructions and intel.

A standoff ensued—the police fired projectiles, and the lines of students fell back and then surged forward, hurling explosives and debris. Updates about police activity circulated throughout Saturday night via Telegram, walkie-talkies, a whiteboard in the campus canteen—any way the protesters could think of to get the word out. When reinforcements were needed at one entrance or another, Grace added her body to the crowd, holding an umbrella to deflect water and pepper spray. When the police threw tear gas, she did her best to put it out. The police shot the canisters parallel to the ground rather than in an overhead arc, aiming directly at the crowd.

News and rumors flew over Telegram and on LIHKG. The police announced that anyone who wanted to leave PolyU peacefully could exit via Y core, a building toward the northern end of campus. Some left, but many of them were arrested, including members of the media and first-aid groups. The remaining protesters knew that they couldn’t trust the police. They held their lines. At one point, the police retreated from the main intersection on the south side of campus long enough for protesters to retrieve bricks they’d thrown, to be used again.

On Sunday night, more than 24 hours into the siege, the police attempted to break through a group of protesters who had planted themselves on a bridge above the cross-harbor tunnel. Two armored trucks approached a line of open umbrellas; Molotov cocktails flew. When one of the police vehicles caught fire, a gasp went up from the protesters—a moment of surprise that soon turned into a cheer. The flaming car backed up and returned to the police cordon.

The protesters weren’t losing—not yet. But they were tired. They were frightened. They were hungry. When Grace heard that the police had threatened to use live bullets, she started to feel desperate. At CUHK, she knew how to get out and did so whenever she wanted. At PolyU, the police weren’t leaving—and they weren’t allowing anyone else to leave.

Grace’s phone buzzed with a new rumor: The police were about to break through the barriers and storm the campus.

People began talking over how to escape. The protesters didn’t want to be arrested and charged with rioting, which can bring a penalty of up to ten years in prison. They didn’t want to be shot or injured. They just wanted to go home.

Word spread that some students were climbing a tree on the edge of campus, easing out onto the branches, and dropping down into the road to be picked up by passing cars—the city had grown so concerned about the protesters that strangers were offering them a ride. Grace ran to the tree and was waiting her turn to climb when her phone buzzed. She launched Telegram. A message said police had taken up a position just beyond the tree and were arresting people as they landed on the ground.

Grace heard about another escape route, but police discovered it before she could get there. Messages were hitting her phone constantly. Pictures of police with sniper rifles. Word of another clash. Early on Monday morning, her phone buzzed with a new rumor: The police were about to break through the barriers and storm the campus.

Grace joined a group of protesters in an empty classroom. They barricaded themselves in and went silent. The officers entered PolyU at 5:30 a.m., arresting people in a part of campus that had been set up to triage protesters with injuries. Then they withdrew. It wasn’t a raid, the police insisted—it was a “dispersal operation,” aimed at collecting explosives. They seemed to be shifting their tactics: Rather than an all-out assault, they were going to wait the protesters out.

Students who had hidden started to emerge. Grace and other protesters came out of the classroom and checked their phones. There was a new plan: The protesters would leave together, as one.

Hundreds of young people headed for a pedestrian bridge that led away from campus. Students wearing protective gear took it off so they could move faster. V, the musician, was walking with his sister, but she passed out when the tear gas, which the police kept firing from outside the barricades, became too thick. “I’m grabbing her, and her boyfriend is grabbing her as well,” V said. “She just can’t feel anything. She felt so heavy.”

Grace ran. A rubber bullet hit the helmet she was wearing. Then she saw people ahead of her running back—the police wouldn’t let them leave. She was disoriented by the smoke and the noise. She ran with a crowd until someone broke a window of the library. Grace climbed over the shattered glass to get inside.

She called her parents and told them that she couldn’t get out. Her father didn’t believe her. “He thought it was not a big deal. He thought his daughter could escape so easily,” Grace recalled. Her mother cried with her and said she was proud. Grace sent a message to her boyfriend, telling him that if she died, he should never forget who killed her: the police.

The protesters at PolyU pinned their hopes on a group of marchers heading toward campus. There were thousands of people: parents, office workers, more students.

The plight of the trapped students captured Hong Kongers’ attention. People called for the protesters to be let out. On Monday, pro-democracy legislators declared the situation a humanitarian crisis. The popular singer Denise Ho took to Twitter to ask the world to help save Hong Kong’s students. Meanwhile, an editorial in the Global Times, a Beijing-based publication, called for the police to fire live rounds.

On Monday night, many of the protesters at PolyU pinned their hopes on a group of marchers heading toward campus. There were thousands of people: parents, office workers, more students. Terra joined from CUHK. “The people next to me were wearing suits—they just got off work,” she recalled. The group hoped to draw police away from campus long enough for the students to escape. It didn’t work.


People who’d given up were slowly trickling off campus. Those who weren’t picked up by cars or motorbikes were arrested. Jack tried to escape through the sewers, but the map he had wasn’t right—he ended up at a dead end. He felt like a trapped animal. Beyond campus, the police were blasting songs by movie star and singer Jackie Chan and theme music from television shows, trying to prevent the protesters from getting any rest. “From time to time, they will make some announcement, ‘Oh, just come out and surrender, we will treat you good,’” Jack said. “Everyone knows they won’t treat you fairly.”


He heard that some people had cut the crash netting used to protect the campus from an elevated road. Protesters could climb up to the road, wait for the police to change shifts, and run when they had an opening. Jack hid in some bushes for several hours. When it was time, the protesters he was with went in groups of three. Jack’s group was the second to run. The police caught him. The other two protesters escaped.

Hundreds tried to get out via Z core, the last building in the chain of PolyU, connected to the rest by a sky bridge. The police were shooting tear gas from the road below, but then the wind changed direction, blowing the smoke back, forcing the cops to retreat. Protesters rappelled down from the bridge and were carted off by people on scooters waiting below.

This was her chance. Grace went.

The bridge stood about 20 feet over the street—a covered stretch of glass and steel with high railings on both sides. Just beyond the railings were rounded metal ledges where a person could stand, albeit precariously. There was one spot where someone had strung ropes that reached from the bridge all the way to the ground.

Grace slung herself over the railing and felt pain shoot through her arm. But she couldn’t turn back. She waited, balancing on the bridge’s metal lip. When it was her turn, Grace leaned out; she grasped a rope and jumped. Her injured arm couldn’t handle the weight of her body. She fell.

It took ten days for the police to clear the campus. They arrested more than 1,100 people.

When Grace hit the pavement, pain shot up her leg and back. A group of strangers ran toward her. She couldn’t walk, so they picked her up and put her on a scooter. The ride from campus was a blur of agony. At some point, Grace lost consciousness. When she came to, she was in an apartment. She tried to get up but couldn’t. She wanted to call her boyfriend, but she couldn’t get her phone out of her pocket by herself. “I kept asking about the situation inside of PolyU,” she said. Grace learned that many protesters were still trapped.

Over the next few days, Grace was moved from safe house to safe house. A doctor came to examine her; she had multiple injuries, but she asked me not to describe them, since they could be used to track her down. She contacted her parents, and they came to see her. By then the injured had flooded the city’s hospitals. Soon after Grace escaped, Hong Kong’s medical authority reported that doctors had treated about 300 people from PolyU.

It took ten more days for the police to clear the campus. Finally, on November 29, the siege was over. The police had arrested more than 1,100 people. The authorities announced that they’d recovered 3,989 petrol bombs, 1,339 other “explosive items,” 601 bottles of corrosive liquids, and 573 weapons. The implication was clear: The police hadn’t done anything wrong—they were contending with dangerous people.

Grace went home to recover from her injuries. She monitored protests from her phone as they continued to flare up around the city. In late November, an election for Hong Kong’s district councils—local advisory bodies in charge of community activities and environmental improvements—handed democracy advocates an overwhelming victory, with 86 percent of the vote. Two weeks later, hundreds of thousands of Hong Kongers took to the streets to insist that China meet their demands for a freer city. Beijing made no concessions.

In December, the international members of a panel tasked with reviewing police behavior at PolyU stepped down in protest—the group had too little investigative power, they said. The same month, Hong Kong’s police chief cryptically thanked China’s public-security bureau for its “vigorous support and help.” Shortly after, a leaked use-of-force police manual showed that Hong Kong’s officers regularly broke their own rules. Again, there were no consequences.

Then, in January, everything came to a screeching halt—the protests, the press conferences, the arrests. The coronavirus pandemic shut down Hong Kong. For the first time in months, it was quiet.

During the lockdown, Grace texted with her boyfriend and started to think about her schoolwork again. She chatted online with friends. Still, her mind wandered. She couldn’t sleep well—she had nightmares. Every time she heard a siren, she jumped. It was strange to have been at PolyU and feel as if the world was ending, then see life go on, however quiet.

Terra had fought with her parents during the 2019 protests—they were pro-Beijing—and moved in with her boyfriend. Now she watched as friends stewed in their hatred of the police. “A lot of my friends are still stuck in those moments,” she said, referring to the violence of last year. “Even though we are staying at home, they are still making video clips about those battles.”

Terra tried to think about the future. She wanted to form an organization to help protesters who’d been arrested and were now facing criminal charges. She also joined Grace and other demonstrators in throwing herself behind the idea of the Yellow Economic Circle, a campaign to convince Hong Kongers to stop shopping at stores that supported the Chinese government, spending their money instead at businesses allied with the pro-democracy movement.

“Sometimes I feel passionate and determined and I want to change the world,” Terra said. “But when I feel uncomfortable I have another mindset, which is: Hide in a cave, hide in a mountain, hide in CUHK, get a research job and a comfortable position.” She could try to resurrect the normal Hong Kong girl.

As protesters like Grace and Terra used the pandemic lockdown to ponder protest tactics, strategize about local elections, and plot boycotts, Beijing changed the rules again. The national-security law that had been proposed and rejected in 2003 was resurrected. This time, Beijing announced that it would not need the approval of LegCo to enact the law. It exploited a loophole in Hong Kong’s constitution that allowed China to introduce certain laws by decree.

“The world is just disgusting,” Jack told me. “People who have capital will migrate and flee. The people who need to flee the most cannot really go—either they have no money, or they have a criminal record because of the protests.” He remained in the city, where his own legal case, the result of his arrest at PolyU, was pending.

The national-security law represented everything the protesters at PolyU feared might happen. It would introduce the crimes of subversion and secession, with a maximum penalty of life in prison. It would make damaging public transportation a crime tantamount to terrorism. It would enable Hong Kong’s chief executive to cherry-pick the judges who hear national-security cases, overriding the city’s prized independent judiciary, and allow some trials to happen behind closed doors. Beijing was coming for the protesters. And it was coming for Hong Kong’s freedoms.

The situation was grim, but the city’s pro-democracy forces persisted. “Before you get slaughtered,” Terra told me, “at least you should yell.” Demonstrators flooded the streets in May, despite a ban on gatherings because of the pandemic. The police came too, toting blue signs that read, “This meeting or procession is in breach of the law. Disperse or we may use force.” On June 4, the anniversary of the Tiananmen Square massacre, the city prohibited the annual vigil for the first time. People came out anyway.

It didn’t matter. At the end of the month, Beijing made its next move: It approved the national-security law.

In late July, four students were arrested for publishing “secessionist” social media posts.

Without question, Grace knew that she would join the next battle for democracy. “I don’t want to leave Hong Kong,” she told me. “Hong Kong is my home. I will fight until it dies.” Having recovered from her injuries, she joined a protest on July 1, the anniversary of Hong Kong’s handover to China. The crowds were smaller than in years past. The police had already changed the wording on its posters: “You are displaying flags or banners/chanting slogans/or conducting yourselves with an intent such as secession or subversion, which may constitute offenses under the ‘HKSAR National Security Law.’ You may be arrested and prosecuted.”

When Grace returned home, she watched bystander videos making the rounds online. A journalist thrown sideways by a blast from a water cannon. An older woman pulled out of her car by police. Riot cops charging with batons. Around 370 people had been arrested, ten of them under the national-security law. Protesters circulated jokes about what they might be detained for: Loving Hong Kong too much? Or something Beijing hadn’t thought of yet?

Books critical of Beijing disappeared from Hong Kong’s libraries. The office of the Public Opinion Research Institute, which publishes polls about politics and local identity, was raided and threatened with the confiscation of its computers. As demonstrations continued, some protesters held up blank pieces of paper to signify that nothing was safe for them to say. The police arrested eight of them. In late July, four students were arrested for publishing “secessionist” social media posts.

Grace knows that her time might come. But she will keep protesting, whether that means detainment or worse. She has already written down everything she wants her friends and family to know if that happens. She wrote the message even before she knew if she would make it out of PolyU alive. It was a goodbye to the people she loved, and a testament to her conviction.

“Officials have forced the people to fight back, blood for blood,” she wrote. “In the face of occupation, of suppression and abuse, Hong Kong people must resist and never compromise. You, like me, might feel exhausted. You will inevitably feel powerless in the face of the Communist Party. But you should know that there are many people who will walk with you along this difficult path. And, although I am going to stop here, you will help me to continue on.”

“I would rather be ashes than dust,” Grace wrote, quoting Jack London. “I would rather die than live quietly.”


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The Long Walk

The Long Walk

When a group of Black mothers in Ohio were told to wait for school integration, they started marching every day in protest. They kept going for nearly 18 months.

The Atavist Magazine, No. 104


Sarah Stankorb’s articles and essays have appeared in The New York Times, The Washington Post, Longreads, The Guardian, and The Atlantic. She lives in Ohio. Follow her on Twitter: @sarahstankorb.

Editor: Seyward Darby
Designer: Ed Johnson
Copy Editor: Sean Cooper
Fact Checker: Kate Wheeling
Illustrator: Rachelle Baker

Published in June 2020

Chapter One

It started with fire.

July 4, 1954 fell on a Sunday, and Philip Partridge went to church that morning. A father of three and an engineer, Partridge was a white man with an evident cowlick that clumped boyishly over the middle of his forehead. He was also a man of conscience, and he believed in civil rights. When the church congregation bowed their heads to pray, Partridge asked God to show him how he could help his Black neighbors.

Two months prior, the U.S. Supreme Court had ruled in Brown v. Board of Education that racial segregation in public schools was unconstitutional. In Hillsboro, Ohio, where Partridge lived, there was a single, combined junior high and high school, attended by all the older students in town, but the elementary schools were still segregated by race. Black children attended Lincoln School, while white children went to Washington or Webster. Partridge was worried that the district would delay integration indefinitely, so as his pastor preached about martyrs, he struck a spiritual bargain: If God would wake him up at 2 a.m. the next morning, he would set fire to Lincoln. No separate school, his logic evidently ran, no segregation.

Divine intervention or not, in the early-morning hours of July 5, a thunderous electrical storm woke Partridge. He got up, dressed, and collected two cans of fuel and some matches. Later his attorneys would call Partridge “deeply religious” and an “idealist.” They would compare him to “Saul on the way to Damascus.”

Partridge broke into the basement of the brick schoolhouse and poured fuel all over the walls and floor. He lit a match. When he left Lincoln, the building was ablaze.

Chapter Two

Hillsboro was like other small cities in southwestern Ohio—an island of neighborhoods with a Main Street, surrounded by a sea of farm country. The Ohio River, about 40 miles south, had once been the dividing line between the free north and the southern slave states. Racism and Jim Crow leaked over. Hillsboro had a movie theater where Black and white patrons sat separately. At restaurants, white diners were welcome to eat in, but Black customers had to take their ten-cent hamburgers to go. Among stories about the hospital auxiliary and the 4-H Club, the city’s newspaper ran ads for a minstrel show, and its society page had a separate section for “Colored News.” As in many northern cities, whether because of government redlining or habitual segregation, Hillsboro had a few neighborhoods where Black people’s homes were clustered. Everywhere else was mostly white.

Gertrude Clemons and Imogene Curtis lived in one of Hillsboro’s Black neighborhoods, and as one did in a time when kids ran freely between yards, the two women made a habit of chatting over their shared fence on Baker Street. The day of the fire at Lincoln School, rumors circulated that a Black youth—the sort of kid who was always in trouble—was responsible. But then, to general astonishment, Partridge confessed so that his crime wouldn’t be pinned on the young man. Local officials tried to get Partridge, who was employed by the county, to resign from his job, but he insisted that he’d “done nothing wrong in the engineer’s office.” He was sent to Lima State Hospital for a 30-day mental-health evaluation.

Imogene wrote him a letter offering some solace. She was that kind of person. Raised in a log cabin by her grandmother, who was five years old when slavery ended and who worked for the white family on whose land the cabin sat, Imogene had graduated high school and attended classes at Ohio University. Her husband, Orvel, was an associate pastor at Hillsboro’s New Hope Baptist Church. She was constantly reading and knew just whom to call, or at least who to ask about whom to call, when people in need came to her—people in pain, people with problems in the courts, people struggling to find a job or housing. Reporters would later describe Imogene, who had round cheeks and a permanent crinkle around her eyes because she smiled with her whole face, as “light skinned” and “plump.” Some people would say she was the “ringleader” of what happened after the Lincoln fire. No doubt she was already busy organizing as she talked over the fence with Gertrude.

Gertrude was beautiful. She wore store-bought dresses and rings on almost every finger. She’d left school in the eighth grade to help raise her 11 siblings, but she was naturally astute. (She eventually  parlayed her modest education into a career in finance at Ohio’s Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, and became a licensed minister.) Like Imogene, Gertrude had serious concerns about Lincoln. The school was built in 1869 to serve the Black children of Hillsboro, which back then had de facto segregation. In 1939, the school board—due to overcrowding, it claimed—formalized the racial divide by transferring the few Black students attending Webster to Lincoln. “That’s when we should have raised a rumpus,” Imogene once told a reporter. The fire Partridge set badly damaged Lincoln, which hadn’t been in good shape to begin with. The building was dilapidated to the point that, in winter, snow blew inside. Six grades were split between two classrooms and shared two teachers. There weren’t any maps on the walls for learning geography. The students inherited books, often with pages missing, discarded by the white elementary schools.

While the women talked at the fence, Gertrude’s two daughters played close by. The younger one, Joyce, was a careful eavesdropper, and she heard what her mother thought about the situation at Lincoln. What Joyce didn’t immediately understand Gertrude explained to her later. For a few years, vocal Black parents had been asking the school board to integrate the elementary schools. Now the Supreme Court had ruled that separate but equal was unconstitutional. Gertrude and Imogene believed that their children should not have to go to Lincoln anymore. They’d talked to other mothers who agreed.

With the school year approaching, Imogene joined a citizens’ committee to fight for integration. She typed up a petition asking “the Board of Education of Hillsboro, Ohio, to admit the colored children of our community into the other schools of the community, namely Webster and Washington schools.” The petition argued that “the conditions at Lincoln School are of such as to not warrant our children the proper training and education.” Failure to integrate, the petition warned, would result in legal action. It was signed “Imogene Curtis, President of P.T.A.” in big letters and black ink. Gertrude volunteered to gather signatures from other parents, mostly mothers.

Imogene Curtis and Gertrude Clemons 

In mid-August, Imogene and Gertrude delivered the petition at a school-board meeting. It didn’t go well. “Negroes are asking the impossible,” one board member insisted. A school levy, which local voters rejected several times before it finally passed, had just gone into effect. Superintendent Paul Upp promised that, once the tax money was used to fund major renovations at Washington and Webster, the young children of Hillsboro would be integrated. He anticipated completion of the project in 1956. “Why can’t they hold out for perhaps two more years?” a board member asked, referring to the city’s Black population.

The school board formally rejected the mothers’ petition. It then accepted an insurance adjuster’s offer of $4,295.50 to patch up Lincoln. Integration could wait.

Around the time of the meeting, Imogene received a letter from Partridge. He’d been deemed sane after his stay at the state hospital—even if, as the doctors determined, he possessed “some unusual and strong ideas.” He thanked Imogene for what she’d written, saying that it had been a great help to him and his wife in their time of uncertainty. “Many people seem to think I made a mistake,” Partridge wrote. “If so, I earnestly hope that it has not harmed the cause of colored people in Hillsboro or elsewhere.”

The harm that Imogene wanted to remedy was the school board’s vote. Unwilling to take it as final, she traveled to the Columbus office of the NAACP to ask the group to intercede. She and other parents turned their citizens’ committee into a local chapter of the organization; Imogene became vice president of the new branch. Russell Carter, a regional legal representative for the NAACP, agreed to stand by, ready to go to court if the district refused to integrate Washington, Webster, and Lincoln once the school year began.

The first day of classes was September 7, a Tuesday. There were at least 67 elementary-school-age Black children in Hillsboro, and that morning most of them reported to Washington and Webster, walked there by their mothers. The Cleveland Plain Dealer reported that, despite the school board’s decision, Superintendent Upp had instructed teachers and students to accept Black children if they showed up at the white schools. “We do not anticipate any trouble at all,” Upp said. The children were allowed in. Their names were taken by teachers. They were shuffled into classrooms, where chairs were added for them.

Whatever triumphant feelings the first day brought, however, were soon dashed: Upp told the press that he wasn’t sure where the Black children would be assigned permanently—they might be sent back to Lincoln. School went on break after that, for an extended weekend holiday that would allow Hillsboro residents time to attend and show animals at the county fair. On September 13, when classes resumed, the school board met to approve the city’s first residence-based zoning plan.

At first glance, it seemed like a logical enough arrangement. An imaginary line bisected Hillsboro north to south; all the children who lived east of that line would go to Washington, while those who lived west of it would go to Webster. However, there were two discrete areas carved out of the Washington zone. They were the city’s Black neighborhoods. The children who lived in them were the only ones designated to attend Lincoln.

The man in charge of establishing the zones was the city solicitor, James Hapner, a bespectacled white man with neatly trimmed hair. The segregation he proposed was obvious but incomplete, since a handful of Black children whose families lived in predominately white neighborhoods would go to Washington or Webster. Zoning individual homes, perhaps, would have been too blatant. Hapner and the school board defended the plan by insisting that it addressed overcrowding conditions at Washington and Webster while also reflecting existing attendance patterns as much as possible.

News of the zoning plan ran in a local paper under the headline “Most Negroes Sent Back to Old Building.” The story sat directly above an item from Lewisburg, West Virginia, where strikes by white students had led the board of education to halt integration at two schools. In other news, a grand jury had charged Philip Partridge with arson and burglary, the latter for forcibly entering Lincoln with intent to commit a felony. He was out of jail on $2,000 bail.

Hillsboro parents received a typed letter from the school board detailing which of the city’s streets were in each zone and noting that, after Thursday, September 16, failure of any parent “to send his child to the proper school will result in the child being withdrawn from the school he is now attending.” Imogene, Gertrude, and other concerned Black mothers met at a church to hatch a plan. Together, they prayed, they would get through this somehow.

Chapter Three

Early on the next school day, Black mothers in neat dresses and children wearing crisply ironed clothes and shined shoes stepped out of their homes into the bright morning light. The kids, as ever, were under orders to use their manners. Together they walked the tidy streets of Hillsboro, where parked Chevys with finned taillights signaled midcentury prosperity. The group carried signs that read, “We pay taxes. Voted for school bonds. For what?” and “If you were in our place would it be different?” Some of the mothers and kids headed to Webster, others to Washington.

Imogene, her hair pinned back and her bangs ironed into a single prim curl, held her protest sign boldly aloft. Gertrude stayed at the rear of her group because Joyce, who was 12, was shy. Gertrude’s sister Zella Cumberland marched, too, holding her daughter Myra’s hand. The little girl was just entering school for the first time, and she thought she was on a fun walk with a bunch of neighborhood kids. Zella, pretty enough for the movies, had dropped out of school in the eighth grade to work in tomato fields. “Get your education. They can’t take your education away from you. Learn everything you can,” she often told her daughters. Another mother who joined the protest was Elsie Steward, a widow with nine kids. After the fire at Lincoln, Elsie became worried that the building’s second story would collapse on her children. “So I said I wouldn’t send mine back,” she later recalled.

When the group bound for Webster arrived at the school, they stood out front, waiting. At 9 a.m., when the bell sounded, about 20 kids broke from their mothers and headed inside. The three Black children who’d been zoned for Webster were allowed to stay, but the rest were sent back out to their mothers, who were still standing on Walnut Street. Within minutes the mothers sent the kids walking right back in. The school sent them out again.

The mothers talked to their children and then sent them once more through the door. School officials still refused to take the children. Out they walked. Finally, the mothers and their children headed home.

The same thing happened at Washington. Some of the 14 children who walked in at the first bell were allowed to stay, because they happened to live in the predominantly white neighborhood zoned for the school. The rest were turned away.

The press quoted Upp saying that any children who weren’t in their assigned classes the following Monday would be counted truant; school officials would take their parents to court. Defiantly, the mothers dressed their kids for school that day and walked them to the doors where they weren’t welcome. At Webster, the principal met them at the threshold. “Nothing’s changed. You’re not assigned,” he told the group.

“Get your education. They can’t take your education away from you. Learn everything you can,” Zella Cumberland told her daughters.

At a meeting with parents, the school board kept up the truancy scare tactics, trying to get the protesting mothers to reenroll their children at Lincoln. “You need to send your kids to Lincoln School, or we’re going to come and take them,” one board member snapped. “I’ll tell you what,” Gertrude replied, “you let me go home, get my washing and everything done, and you want to send me to jail? You send me to jail, but my child will not go to Lincoln School.”

The other parents marveled at Gertrude’s nerve. Some were worried that local authorities might actually take their kids. No one came for Joyce.

Imogene stopped by Gertrude’s one night with good news. The NAACP was firmly in favor of the mothers’ campaign. At the Ohio chapter’s annual convention, which happened to be in mid-September, delegates had contributed $101.50 to a new Hillsboro Legal Fund.

The NAACP’s lawyers told Imogene that if the mothers wanted to fight the school district in court, there had to be a lead child plaintiff, just like in the Brown case. It’s unclear why the attorneys didn’t pick one of Imogene’s children. Decades later, her daughter Eleanor would point out that Imogene “got enough publicity not being the plaintiff.” Maybe not being named in the suit would allow her to be more of a rabble-rouser, troublemaker, and instigator—words that observers of the case would use to describe her.

“Well, you use Joyce,” Gertrude offered to her friend, “because there’s no way they take her away from me—there’s no reason for it.”

That’s how the mothers’ lawsuit, filed in federal court on September 22, 1954, officially became Clemons v. Board of Education. There were other plaintiffs: Dorothy Clemons and her mother, Roxie, who were related to Joyce and Gertrude; Myra Cumberland and her mother, Zella; Deborah Rollins and her mother, Norma; and Elsie Steward and her daughters Evelyn, Virginia, and Carolyn. But Joyce Clemons was the name people around the country would see when they read about the first test case of Brown v. Board north of the Mason-Dixon.

Chapter Four

The NAACP petitioned for a temporary injunction against the Hillsboro school board and Upp, which would allow integration to begin at once. Federal judge John H. Druffel denied the motion, saying that the defendants hadn’t been properly notified that the suit would be filed. That was how he always handled these things, he added. Druffel scheduled a hearing for September 29. The mothers prepared to go to court.

They had an up-and-coming legal star in their corner, a woman named Constance Baker Motley. Raised along with 11 brothers and sisters in New Haven, Connecticut, she could trace her lineage back to slaves on the Caribbean island of Nevis. Motley was in her early thirties and had been hired at the NAACP in New York City by Thurgood Marshall. She had drafted the initial complaint for what became Brown v. Board and was the only woman to work on the landmark case.

After celebrating the Brown decision—“those who knew Thurgood knew that ‘party’ was his middle name,” Motley later wrote—the NAACP decided to start bringing desegregation cases to court in border states such as Missouri, Maryland, and Ohio. The odds were better there than they were in the Deep South, which was under the jurisdiction of the Fifth Circuit Court of Appeals, known for its hostility to civil-rights claims. The NAACP’s strategy was to start in the north and work its way down, enshrining the rights of the Brown case as it went. Given Hillsboro’s location, the mothers’ case was the right fight at the right time in the right part of the country.

The first hearing was held in Cincinnati, and Motley was there with two local lawyers: Russell Carter, who was Dayton’s first Black judge, and James McGee, who would be elected Dayton’s first Black mayor. The Hillsboro Board of Education was represented by Hapner, the city solicitor who’d drawn the controversial zoning map. The school-board members, white men in muted suits, sat wide-legged in their seats at a hardwood table, upon which sat a single file folder, a few pieces of paper, a book, and one manila envelope. The plaintiffs looked twice as good and twice as ready. Their table was heaped with legal books, folders, and handbags. The mothers wore dresses and skirt suits. Motley looked like she could have been one of them: She was around the same age, clad in a dark dress with a flared white collar. Her curled hair hung just over her ears, a style similar to that worn by Zella Cumberland and Gertrude Clemons.

The mothers were stoic. Elsie Steward had taken a precious day off work to be here. Gertrude peered through spectacles. The women’s demeanor suggested that they had no intention of leaving until they got what they came for.

Motley began her opening remarks by noting that the NAACP was prepared to share the facts of the case and proposed conclusions under the law. Judge Druffel, a plain-faced man who’d been appointed to the bench by Franklin D. Roosevelt, said he didn’t want to hear any of that—just give the evidence, he said. He told Motley to watch her time. He seemed like a man who’d already made up his mind.

Motley defined the facts anyway: The child plaintiffs, she said, had registered in person at Washington and Webster at the beginning of the school year, and the district was trying to force them to go to Lincoln solely based on the color of their skin. Throughout the proceedings, she would hang her argument on points that, within a few years, would be distributed to NAACP branches nationwide as a blueprint for identifying segregation in public schools: acquire a map (or draw one) showing school zones and residential patterns; indicate any instances of gerrymandering around segregated neighborhoods; enumerate student enrollment and school capacity, as well as the “number of white and Negro students … number of empty classrooms, and number and type of any special rooms (art or music rooms, lunch rooms, health room, etc.) being used as classrooms to help relieve over-crowding.”

Hapner told the court that, due to overcrowding at Webster and Washington, the school board had decided to rezone. “Strictly upon residential lines, the infant plaintiffs were required to attend the Lincoln School building,” Hapner noted. Pointedly, he mentioned that there were “students of Negro race” at Webster and Washington. Segregation, therefore, couldn’t have been the goal. That there were no white students living in the Lincoln zone Hapner framed as happenstance.

The plaintiffs’ side called an expert witness, a professor at Ohio State University who specialized in educational administration. He had recently conducted a study of the Hillsboro school system and found that the district operated “two so-called white schools” and “the so-called Negro school.” Superintendent Upp verbally confirmed to him that the neighborhoods included in the Lincoln zone “had been selected because they did include the Negro population.” If the plan was indeed designed to achieve a better balance of enrollment across schools, it had failed: The professor had found on September 8 that a total of just 17 children were attending Lincoln, down by 53 from the previous year. Meanwhile, there was an average of 35 kids per class at Washington and 38 at Webster.

The women’s demeanor suggested that they had no intention of leaving until they got what they came for.

Next, Motley got Marvel Wilkins, the school-board president, on the stand. Wilkins had a button nose and the prominent forehead of a balding man. He denied that there were any racial differences among Hillsboro’s elementary schools. When Motley inquired whether there had ever been any white children at Lincoln, he said he couldn’t be sure. “There were certain children that you cannot state which race they belong to that went to that building,” Wilkins explained. Motley pointed out that there was a white family that lived right next door to Lincoln. “Isn’t it true that they go to Washington only because they are white?” Motley asked. Wilkins said no. Since the rezoning, he emphasized, “we have colored children going to the Washington building.”

When it was his turn on the stand, Upp was asked to draw the Lincoln school zone on a map of Hillsboro. Upp, who had a hawkish mien and wore black-framed glasses, said he didn’t think he could. Despite working in the district for 32 years, Upp claimed, “I don’t think I am possessed of enough facts to do it.” He said that the zones had been drawn on the advice of legal counsel—Hapner, that is—“based on a residential area, of trying to continue the pattern of operation that we have had in Hillsboro.”

“Then your zoning was very convenient along the racial lines?” asked Russell Carter, who was questioning the witness. Carter raised the fact that hundreds of white kids—525 total—from the surrounding countryside were transported into Hillsboro to attend school. If space was such a concern, Carter said, why didn’t the district assign some of those students to Lincoln? “The spirit of the community in which I live would not indicate to me that to be a wise thing to do,” Upp admitted. “I have started into this program of integration with a very clear conscience and a desire to accomplish it in a smooth, intelligent, sane manner.”

In a scene that would beg the credulity of anyone familiar with a courtroom TV drama, Carter’s next task was questioning his opposing counsel. He got Hapner on the stand and asked him to mark up the new school zones on a map of Hillsboro.

“Will you … draw for us, in red pencil, the Lincoln zones?” Carter asked.

“I prefer to use another color,” Hapner replied.

“You don’t like red?” Carter asked, too innocently for a man who fought civil-rights cases and knew the dramatic potential of a city official redlining a map in a courtroom.

“No,” said Hapner.

“I don’t blame you,” Carter said.

Hapner outlined the Lincoln zone in blue. He designated the Washington and Webster zones by drawing an orange line between them. Carter asked why two neighborhoods were excluded from the Washington zone on the map, as if they’d been sliced out. Hapner claimed confidentiality as the school board’s attorney. He denied that race had been a motivating factor—after all, a few Black families now had to send their kids to Washington and Webster because of the zoning. As for Lincoln remaining all Black, Hapner now claimed, “It would be disastrous to attempt to assign children—white children—to what was considered in the minds of the community to be a colored school.”

The defense had witnesses it wanted to call, but Druffel said that he’d heard enough. He determined that a ruling in the case would be premature: He didn’t want to make any judgments until the U.S. Supreme Court decided how much time schools around the country should be allowed to integrate. The school district, Druffel said, could proceed on its own terms, delaying integration until renovations at Webster and Washington were completed.

In a battle of bureaucratic machinations, it was another roadblock—a big one. Outside the courtroom, photographers asked the protesting mothers to line up with their legal team. They clutched their handbags and stood for the flash. They had no reason to smile, so they didn’t.

The NAACP attorneys soon appealed to a higher court, arguing that the judge abused his discretion and seeking a definitive ruling in the case. It criticized Druffel’s decision for seeming to conclude “that it is not yet certain what the rights of the plaintiffs are.” In the meantime, the mothers had a choice: They could send their children to Lincoln and wait for integration to happen, or they could resist.

Chapter Five

Life, as it does with children, found a routine. Each morning in what had been delineated as the Lincoln zone, some 20 mothers and their nearly 40 combined children got ready to walk to school. Elsie Steward’s house in the northeastern corner of town simmered with the barely contained chaos of nine hungry kids trooping downstairs. Elsie stood at the stove making fried flatbread to serve with butter and jam. Her husband, James, a bricklayer, had died a few years prior from a heart attack; he went to bed one night and didn’t wake up. The Steward kids knew their daily responsibilities, a division of labor that put one or another of them in charge of sweeping, dishes, taking out the trash, and other chores. For the most part, Elsie could keep her kids in line with a stern look. A snap of her fingers meant that you’d pushed it too far.

Chores done and mouths fed, Elsie would leave her house with Evelyn, Virginia, and Carolyn, her elementary-school-aged children, all plaintiffs in the NAACP’s case. The Stewards, who lived just up the street from Lincoln, walked more than a mile to Webster. They joined other women and their kids along the way. A second group walked to Washington. Collectively, they became known as the marching mothers of Hillsboro.

In the early days of the march, Carolyn Steward, who was seven at the time, saw some white construction workers along her route pull down their pants, exposing themselves to the kids. “So the parents decided this is not the way to walk,” she recalled. The mothers opted instead for a street that took them past a garage where men stood outside to scowl at them. At one house, an old man sat on his porch swing every morning, glaring at the marchers. At least the garage guys and “Swing Man,” as one of the children dubbed him, kept their pants on.

Fathers didn’t march. They were working, “which was a good thing, because it was a peaceful march,” Carolyn said. It might not have remained so if men were involved. “The way people talked and the way they acted while we were marching,” Carolyn explained, “it would have been a really bad scene, I’m sure.”

Sometimes the marchers sang silly songs to keep the children occupied. The kids played skip-the-crack along the sidewalks. As they approached Webster, the window blinds in the classrooms would draw shut, keeping the white children inside from seeing the marchers. At the door, the principal went through his routine. “Nothing’s changed. You’re not assigned,” he’d say. With that the marchers would go home.

Day after day, the same walk, the same refrain. No one expected it to suddenly change. That wasn’t the point.

Sometimes newspaper people came and snapped photos of the mothers and children being turned away at the door. The battle drew press from around Ohio and was picked up by the wire services; Imogene handled many of the interviews. One article claimed, “The average citizen of Hillsboro seems singularly unaware of any conflict over the integration problem.” The average white citizen, anyway.

Teresa Williams, whose mom, Sallie, took her on the march, grew up playing with white kids from a big family that lived near hers on East Walnut Street. Teresa was taught that people weren’t born racist. In her view, if her white playmates “didn’t know what was going on” with the march, it was “because it wasn’t talked about in their home.”

Myra Cumberland approached her mother, hoping to understand why she couldn’t go to school. “Why don’t they want us there? Just because we’re Black?” she asked. “You just don’t worry,” Zella told her. “Let me worry about that.” But Myra knew it had something to do with the color of her skin. Every once in a while, she heard adults talking about people who wanted “to hold Blacks back.”

Occasionally, the NAACP attorneys visited, “big shots coming in all dressed up,” as young Joyce Clemons saw them. She was especially taken with Motley, who was tall and carried a briefcase—a woman in a position of power. One day the lawyers came to march with the mothers and children; they wanted to follow the path and experience the rejection, to know what the daily ritual felt like.

In mid-October 1954, a large photo of a defeated Philip Partridge, his wife, and his attorneys ran on the front page of Hillsboro’s Press-Gazette. Partridge had been sentenced to between one and 15 years in the state penitentiary for setting fire to Lincoln. Ultimately, he served just nine months before his release. The mothers marched through his time behind bars. They were still marching when he was set free.

Chapter Six

In December 1954, the Sixth Circuit Court of Appeals ordered Judge Druffel to show cause if he wasn’t going to rule immediately in the Hillsboro case. So after Christmas, Druffel called the attorneys, mothers, and school-board members back to court. The board had been asked to provide an official map of the school zones, which the plaintiffs hoped would clearly show the gerrymandering. But the district’s representatives didn’t bring one. “I am not a draftsman,” Wilkins, the school-board president, said on the stand. “I probably couldn’t have done it right if I had tried to do it.”

Motley had come prepared. She admitted her own map as exhibit number five. The Webster zone was orange, Washington’s was blue, and Lincoln’s was red.

During questioning, Wilkins argued that some Black children preferred Lincoln over being forced into a new school where they would “definitely get run over.” Druffel asked what that meant. They’d get made fun of, Wilkins explained—it happened to the poor white children who came to school “all dirty or something, and they are not very popular.” Other kids wouldn’t play with them. They went home crying.

As it happened, Wilkins continued, on the first day of school, some Black children had wanted to go to Lincoln but couldn’t. “They went to the Webster building, crying, come up to the office, scared to death, didn’t want to go in there,” he claimed. “We felt sorry for some of them, and the parents of some of them just kind of pushed them in there.” He was talking about the mothers, of course, and a table full of them were watching him testify. Wilkins quickly clarified that some neighbors had told him this. He didn’t know which kids cried; he didn’t actually see the scene himself.

Since the previous hearing, a few mothers had quit the march and moved their children back to Lincoln. What’s more, according to the school board, some Black families who lived in the Webster or Washington zone had asked that their children be allowed to go back to their old school; the board had obliged those requests. Motley saw a contradiction. “There are certain Negro children attending Lincoln by their own choice,” she said, but “the plaintiffs, who chose to go to Washington and Webster, do not have that choice.” Why was it, she wanted to know, that Black residents were allowed to choose segregation but not integration?

Wilkins said he wasn’t sure he understood the question. The courtroom broke into laughter. Druffel threatened to clear the spectators. Motley pointed to the mothers and spoke of their children. “Why did they not have a choice to go to Washington and Webster, as these other Negro children who were assigned there had a choice to go to Lincoln?” she asked. Wilkins told Motley she was asking the question backwards. They went two more rounds before Hapner interjected.

“Your honor, if the witness doesn’t know, I would like him to be given the opportunity to say so,” he said.

“He didn’t say he didn’t know,” Motley replied.

“We more or less let the kids go to school they was assigned to last year, if they wanted to,” Wilkins offered. “And the ones that we had to change, we had to make laws, and they had to stay within those geographical drawings of the resolution to go to the school they was supposed to.”

At that point, Druffel cut off the exchange by asserting that the plaintiffs had to go to Lincoln “because they are in the Lincoln zone. That’s the answer.” He instructed Motley to call her next witness, leaving the double standard she had highlighted unaddressed.

Superintendent Upp took the stand and spoke plainly. He said that the zoning was based on “a pattern of education that we have had for some time,” and that the current segregation was both partial and temporary. The plaintiffs’ counsel pointed out that if Hillsboro had segregation of any kind, since the practice had been deemed illegal in Brown v. Board, “your total action is illegal, isn’t it?” Druffel cut in again: “The Supreme Court hasn’t formulated a pattern as to how they are going to work out their own decision. So if they can’t make up their mind, I don’t see how you can ask this witness to.”

Upp said that the district was willing to integrate, but not yet. The problem wasn’t race—it was space. If Hillsboro had the capacity in its facilities, it would integrate tomorrow. “I have no prejudice toward colored people. I have none now, none whatever,” Upp insisted. If the board had wanted to zone on the basis of race, it would have just said, “All colored children go to the Lincoln building.” But it hadn’t.

“There is no problem here,” Upp said, “if we just let it alone.”

Druffel’s ruling came as no surprise. On behalf of the court, he wrote, “We do not deem it our duty to interfere with the program of integration as outlined by the Board and Mr. Upp, Superintendent of Schools”—the program, that is, slated to go into effect in 1956. Druffel’s opinion concluded, “We think Mr. Upp’s solution is sound and the best.”

The mothers’ solution was to keep walking.

Chapter Seven

Virginia Steward had a stomachache. Or so she said. Virginia feigned sickness a lot in those days. She was eight years old, and as her mother, Elsie, led her and her sisters on the march day after day, month after month, back and forth to Webster, she kept angling for ways to get out of it. As she would later put it, she found the whole thing “devastating.”

Virginia worried about the kinds of things that all young kids do. For instance, her little sister Carolyn had developed a talent for sparking arguments between Virginia and another sibling for her own amusement—and it always seemed to happen right before Elsie was due home from work, when they’d be sure to get into trouble. Virginia knew snippets of what was happening elsewhere in America. She had impressions of fires and Black children unwelcome in white schools. She knew that there were lynchings in the South. She worried about the white men who leered at her as they all marched down the street. She was anxious about how much longer she’d have to walk past them. It was now the spring of 1955—would this still be happening in the fall?

Virginia wasn’t sure it was doing any good. Some other kids in her neighborhood had reenrolled at Lincoln, after their parents were told they might lose their jobs if they kept protesting. Gertrude Clemons, though she had no intention of giving up on the march, had lost a few housekeeping jobs over it. Once, when Elsie attended a court hearing in the case held in Cincinnati, she asked her eldest daughter to cover for her at a house she cleaned. When the employer, a woman, learned where Elsie was, she announced, “Well, I thought Elsie was better than that.” (Elsie’s daughter retorted, “I thought you were better than that.”)

“Why do we keep doing this?” Virginia asked her mother. There was no budging Elsie. Virginia would hug her belly, saying it hurt, hoping her mother would at least spare her the walk on that particular day. “No, let’s go,” Elsie would say. And out the door they went.

Unlike Gertrude, whose husband, Hamer, delivered coal and was a barber, or Zella Cumberland, whose husband worked at a foundry, Elsie was on her own. She did other people’s laundry. She scrubbed clothes by hand, hung them on a line to dry, then took a break to walk to the 1950s equivalent of a food bank, where she stood in line for cheese, flour, and butter. In the summer, her kids helped pick enough berries to can jam and jelly for the rest of the year. She also made a stockpile of canned beans and zucchini relish. Her elder sons hunted rabbits and squirrels for meat. Even though Elsie made it smell good, Virginia gagged over it. But she also knew that if she didn’t eat it, she was going to bed hungry.

Some of the mothers converted their kitchens and living rooms into classrooms. They took in children whose mothers had to work.

As a child, Elsie had walked more than two miles each way to school—far enough that the district gave her family money for the shoes she wore through each year. (It never provided a bus.) Elsie liked school until a new principal arrived. He was, by all accounts, mean to Black students, so Elsie quit after the 11th grade. Now she was fighting for her children to get the kind of education she had wanted.

Just because they were marching didn’t mean that a better education could wait. When they got home each morning, none of the kids were allowed to sit idly by. The mothers requested help from Wilmington College, a school with Quaker roots in a nearby city that had weathered its own integration fight in 1952. Mary Hackney, a teacher taking time off to raise her youngest children, and whose husband served on a committee at the college, met every Monday with two other Quaker teachers. They drove to Hillsboro and passed off lesson plans and worksheets to the marching mothers. At the end of each week, the Quaker teachers would come back to collect papers to grade.

Some of the mothers converted their kitchens and living rooms into classrooms. They took in children whose mothers, like Elsie, had to work. Imogene taught Joyce Clemons, Teresa Williams, and a few other children. She was a natural teacher. She didn’t have her students raise their hands; instead she would go around the kitchen table and give each child a chance to share their answer to a question or problem. “That way no one felt out of place,” Joyce recalled. Zella Cumberland was another teacher, and she taught kids in the large front room of her house. Teresa’s mother, Sallie, who played pick-up sticks, hopscotch, and made-up games with her children, taught another group, as did Rose Kilgore and Minnie Speach, who lived just down the alley from each other.

Educating the children at home resulted in far smaller student-to-teacher ratios than they’d ever had at Lincoln. Built-in to the experience was an ethos about what it meant to fight for one’s rights—the kinds of sacrifices and solidarity required. The kitchen classrooms were proto–Freedom Schools, a decade before Freedom Summer.

Chapter Eight

The school year ended in disappointment. In May 1955, as the mothers prepared to take a break from marching for the summer, the Supreme Court directed school districts nationwide to make a “prompt and reasonable start toward full compliance” with the Brown ruling. It urged “all deliberate speed,” but what that entailed wasn’t clear. What distinguished, say, a slow effort made in good faith from one made in bad faith was left up to the lower courts, which the Supreme Court said should retain jurisdiction in cases pertaining to school segregation.

It wasn’t the decisive stance on an integration timeline that the NAACP had hoped for. A “reasonable start” and “all deliberate speed” were in the eye of the beholder. To some, that might look a lot like Hillsboro’s two-year integration plan endorsed in Druffel’s ruling. The appeals court reviewing the marching mothers’ case might agree.

When school reopened in September 1955, the mothers picked up where they’d left off. They now trooped a total of 47 children to school. All but 11, who lived in majority-white neighborhoods, were turned away from Washington and Webster. They went back to their homeschools.

The second day of school, a Thursday, the principal at Webster didn’t make it to the door before the mothers and children arrived, so they entered the building and sat down on the floor. Joyce Clemons was surprised and amused by the adults’ approach of “let’s see what’s going to happen now.” Before long the principal came bustling out of his office. “You guys have to leave, because there hasn’t been a decision yet,” he said. He ushered them back outside, where they stood for a time with their protest signs before marching past Upp’s office and going home.

Days turned into weeks; the march continued. At one point, a local paper ran a photo of the mothers and children under the headline “Parade at School.”

The fire happened late one October night. It wasn’t at Lincoln this time, and it wasn’t intended to hasten the cause of equality. The orange flames danced on the arms of a cross—it was a fire that chilled, that was meant to strike fear.

The cross was burned in the yard of the Blakey family, who lived on East Walnut Street. The march went past their house every morning, but the Blakeys were among the families who’d left the protest sometime prior and reenrolled their children at Lincoln. The Clemonses could see the fire from across the street. Joyce woke up in the middle of the night to find her parents watching the flames through the window. She didn’t understand. It took time—listening to her parents’ conversations, to what other people said about what happened—to grasp the meaning. In the moment, all she knew for certain was that her parents made sure to look, to bear witness. To her they seemed fearless.

Zella Cumberland had already read to her girls and tucked them in when she heard about the fire. She wanted to see it for herself, but she didn’t want to leave her girls at home, so she woke them up and put them in the car. By the time they arrived, the fire had been put out. Smoke still hung in the air above the charred cross, which had been wrapped in burlap and doused in fuel. Later, Zella explained to her daughter Myra that the cross had been set on fire because people were against what the marchers were doing.

The police tried to brush the incident off, suggesting that it was a Halloween prank. Mrs. Blakey issued her own statement. “Whoever burnt the cross in the Blakey yard, we wish they wouldn’t do it again,” she said, “because my husband has a violent temper and will shoot first and ask questions later.” She added in a later interview with a Press-Gazette reporter that her family had been out of the integration battle for a while. “Now it looks as if we’re back in it again,” she said. Gertrude Clemons told the same reporter that the cross burning wouldn’t stop the march. “The only way to stop it is to burn us,” she declared.

The tough words and the fire worried little Virginia Steward more than ever. The people who burned the cross could do something else, something worse. What if her mother and the other mothers got killed? Maybe, Virginia hoped, the seriousness of it all would mean she finally didn’t have to walk anymore. But the cross “didn’t bother me any,” Elsie Steward later said. The morning after the burning, she and the other mothers marched their kids to school.

Chapter Nine

The cross burning was an act of terror, but not a setback. Those came courtesy of state institutions. Legislation proposed by a group of Ohio senators that would have empowered the state board of education to withhold funds from districts that still assigned students to schools based on race died in committee. In public testimony, the president of Ohio’s NAACP said Hillsboro was one of the “problem areas.” (He also called out segregation in cities as big as Columbus, the state capital.) Then, in December, the Ohio Education Association, a teachers’ union, rejected a proposal to stop directing money to districts that segregated, opting instead to give commendations to districts that integrated quickly.

As those with the clout to shape policy worked in half measures at best, the marching mothers and their children met each bleary winter morning for the walk to school and back. Their hopes still hung on the NAACP’s appeal of Druffel’s ruling, which had yet to be heard in court. It finally happened on December 29, 1955, a year to the day after the mothers had last appeared in Druffel’s courtroom. The NAACP’s legal team took the case to the Sixth Circuit Court of Appeals, and Thurgood Marshall himself traveled from New York to make the oral arguments before a three-judge panel.

It took a week for the court to rule, and the decision was two to one—in favor of the mothers and their children. One of the judges was Florence Ellinwood Allen, who had previously been the first woman to serve on Ohio’s Supreme Court, and was one of the first women to serve as a federal judge. A white woman who wore her hair in an Aunt Bee upsweep, Allen wrote the majority opinion. She noted that while the district claimed its rezoning of the elementary schools was not based on race, Upp had testified that “temporary segregation” existed. Druffel’s ruling, then, was a violation of the Supreme Court’s decision in Brown v. Board.

Allen could find “no case in which it is declared that a judge has judicial discretion by denial of an injunction to continue the deprivation of basic human rights.” The rezoning in Hillsboro, she continued, had been a subterfuge to continue separating children by race. To justify segregation on the grounds that schools were too crowded had no basis in law. Even if it had, the figures on enrollment across Hillsboro’s schools didn’t support the overcrowding narrative.

The court ruled that Druffel had to provide a permanent injunction that would end all racial segregation in Hillsboro on or before the start of classes the following September. At a press conference the day the decision came down, Druffel threatened to defy the directive. He invited the school board and Hapner to meet with him the following week to discuss next steps. He said it would take nothing short of an order from the Supreme Court to change his mind. Druffel insisted that he would get an attorney if necessary. “The case can be taken to the Supreme Court in my name,” he said.

NAACP attorneys Russell Carter, Constance Baker Motley, and James McGee.

As long as the status of their case was up in the air, the mothers would keep protesting. Press attention mounted. In March 1956, Jet magazine’s cover line read, “The Northern City that Bars Negroes from School.” The story inside featured photos of the march and of mothers teaching kids at kitchen tables. There was Joyce Clemons keeping her eyes down on her books, Carolyn Steward following along as a classmate read aloud, and Sallie Williams—a mother whose name was misspelled in the caption—reviewing vocabulary words on a chalkboard that she held in her lap. Upp was quoted insisting, as ever, “There is no trouble here.” Imogene, referred to as “Mrs. Orvel Curtis,” voiced skepticism that the school board would meet the September deadline for integration. “They never did anything before until we got after them,” she said.

The legal threats against the mothers ended abruptly that spring. In early April, the Supreme Court declined to review the circuit court’s decision. Unless the school board filed a motion for reconsideration, Druffel would be forced to write an order directing Hillsboro to integrate. At that point, the school board decided it was done fighting. For all his bluster a few months prior, Druffel acquiesced, too.

There wasn’t much celebration over a win that by then was some 20 months in the making, all of which the mothers had marched, save summer break. The mothers were strong Christian women, as Joyce later described them; they’d prayed and worked, they’d done what was right, and that was enough. When Sallie Williams told her children that the march was finished and they’d be going to Webster, they were relieved. “We were just glad it was over so we didn’t have to walk anymore,” her daughter Teresa said.

But it wasn’t over, not quite. Imogene showed up at the school-board meeting the same night the Supreme Court decided not to review the case. She sat quietly for two hours, taking notes as the board discussed pay raises for teachers. Her son played beside her while she waited to speak. Finally, she got her question in.

“What is the status of our children?” Imogene asked. She explained that they had been tutored, and she wanted to know if they could take a test to be placed in the appropriate grades. Not in the fall, but now.

What was the point, the board replied, when summer break wasn’t far off? “You’d get a dandy lot of education in one month of school,” said the new board president, William Lunkens. “At least we’d have the satisfaction of having our children in school,” Imogene countered. Eventually, Upp stepped in, saying that he recommended testing administered by an outside source, “so that nobody can say we were prejudiced.”

The next morning, for the last time, the mothers got up, dressed their kids, and marched. “You’re not assigned,” the principal at Webster said. But rather than walk away, this time Gertrude Clemons spoke up. “We’re going to sit awhile,” she said.

The principal asked the group not to interfere with the orderly operation of the school. He left them standing in his office. There weren’t enough chairs for them.

Chapter Ten

On April 13, 1956, testing led by officials from Ohio’s department of education took place at Webster. One six-year-old girl cried for her mother after being led inside. Upp barred reporters and photographers from entering the building. He said he wanted “to maintain order and prevent the children from becoming unduly excited.” Imogene, though, was as willing as ever to talk to journalists. She was confident that the kids would do well. They’d used the right books, done the right lessons. When they finished the exams and came outside to be with their mothers, Imogene let the press know that the children hadn’t found the tests very difficult.

But when the results were announced, only one Black student—Teresa Williams’s little sister, Mary—had passed at grade level. That meant all the other children would have to reenter school in the grade they’d been in when the march started—or even lower. The idea of being held back, “that kinda messed you up,” Teresa recalled. For the mothers, the outcome was reminiscent of the district allowing a few Black children to be zoned for Webster and Washington so that it could insist that segregation wasn’t the goal.

The district claimed that the tests were widely used standardized exams, administered and scored by men from the state department of education, and then, as reported in the press, “double-checked by local officials.” Mary Hackney, the Quaker teacher who had been checking the students’ progress for a year and a half, was not typically the assertive type. Still, she made her way to the principal’s office at Webster. She spotted papers stacked on the corner of his desk and grabbed them. “Oh, are these the tests?” she asked, leafing through. Hackney, who knew how to interpret standardized-test results, told the mothers that, from what she saw, the children should have been allowed to advance.

“Many of our people died freeing us and our descendants,” Imogene pointed out, “but it didn’t make the victory any worse.”

A few of the mothers threatened legal challenges over the grade placements, but they ultimately relented. It was time to claim victory, however unfinished it felt. When a dismissive editorial appeared in the Press-Gazette, saying that the mothers had won only by making their children suffer, Imogene penned a response. “In spite of the board’s trying to be vindictive I do not regret sacrificing my child so other boys and girls in years to come have a decent and non segregated Education,” she wrote. Her youngest son, John, would eventually graduate high school later than other kids his age, but at least he was learning “to have faith and courage to stand up for his ideals in spite of cost and great obstacles.” He was also learning not to believe everything officials said, to always look for the truth himself. “Many of our people died freeing us and our descendants,” Imogene pointed out, “but it didn’t make the victory any worse.”

She closed with a warning. The board might have been patting itself on the back for having the last word on grade placements, but Imogene was sure that every time its members looked the “children in the face their conscience will hurt them and they shall have no peace.”

Chapter Eleven

On April 17, the marching mothers’ children walked into Washington and Webster and were allowed to stay. Joyce Clemons had been heading into sixth grade at the start of the march, but now she was back in fifth. Her day started quietly, with her mother escorting her down mostly empty hallways that seemed to have been cleared to limit any confrontation. Throughout the day, Joyce noticed white children hanging back. They avoided mingling with her and the other Black students, not sure what to make of them. Some of Joyce’s teachers weren’t nice to her, but the one in her homeroom was. For the first time in almost two years, Joyce was able to take a seat in a real classroom.

Though she should have been in fourth grade, Carolyn Steward was enrolled in second. “It was so boring for us,” she recalled. “We were already more advanced than the classrooms they put us in.” Teresa Williams was placed in fifth grade, though she was old enough—and ready—for sixth. She found that one of the biggest adjustments was getting used to having a single grade in a classroom, with “everybody doing the same work.” It wasn’t like Lincoln, which sat empty for the 1956–57 school year before being sold the following summer.

Virginia Steward stayed inside for recess—nobody would let her jump rope or play hopscotch with them anyway. A few of the white kids told her they would have let her join, but their parents told them not to. “Don’t let us come by there and see you out there with them little Black kids,” the adults said. Virginia’s little sister was more gregarious: Carolyn went outside and played with anyone who’d let her. It seemed like the younger a child, the easier it was for them to find acceptance.

There were challenges beyond making friends. Myra Cumberland had a teacher who gave her dirty looks. The teacher, an older woman, wore thick-soled shoes, what Myra called “old-lady comforts.” One day, Myra was wearing a white dress with purple polka-dots, and the teacher kicked the edge of it. Myra tried to brush off the footprint but couldn’t. When her mother saw the smudge and asked how she got dirt on her dress, Myra didn’t tell her. She never did. Looking back, she isn’t sure why.

Perhaps it was because she was learning to take care of herself. All the kids were, and not just in school. Over time some even engaged in their own acts of defiance. One Sunday after church services, when Virginia was 11 or 12, she and a few friends stopped at a coffee shop for a Pepsi, knowing full well that they wouldn’t be served. They waited about half an hour and were ignored, so they made a mess with the ketchup and mustard at their table. Around the same age, Virginia went to the movies with her brothers, and they ignored the usher when he directed them to the seats for Black people. The usher demanded that they relocate from the white section or “get up and go home.” They wanted to see the movie, so they moved.

As Myra grew up, she became athletic. She played softball with a group of kids, some white. She even played football with boys. The kids at school called her Wilma Rudolph—the Black sprinter who in 1960 became the first U.S. woman to win three gold medals at the Olympics—because she was so fast. By the seventh grade, everyone treated her well enough. One day in algebra, the teacher left the room for a few minutes. There was a new student in class, a white boy who had just moved from Cincinnati, and when Myra stood up to sharpen her pencil, he cried, “Don’t touch me, you’ll get me dirty!” Two of the other white boys in the class grabbed him by the foot and dangled him out the second-floor window. They made him apologize to Myra, then brought him up again. By the time the teacher returned, the students were mostly back in their places, and the new boy looked flushed and disheveled. The teacher asked what was wrong. “Nothing,” he said.

The other white boys let him know that next time, they’d drop him. He never called Myra a name again. Like many people, Myra and the boy would both stay in Hillsboro for the rest of their lives. Years later, when she saw him around town, he was friendly to her.

Chapter Twelve

When the march began in 1954, South Carolina governor James Byrnes argued that Hillsboro’s spectacle was evidence that some cities needed to continue school segregation. The mothers’ victory helped achieve the opposite. Across Ohio, it was invoked by advocates fighting segregation in Cleveland, Akron, Columbus, and smaller communities throughout the state. It was cited in legal proceedings in New York and Texas. As a vital test case for the implementation of Brown v. Board of Education, it created a domino effect—one small city’s integration would pressure another to follow suit, then another, then another.

Yet the march never rooted itself in the national consciousness like the story of the Little Rock Nine or Ruby Bridges eventually did. Perhaps that’s because the events in Hillsboro were relatively peaceful, or because the city wasn’t in the Deep South. Or maybe it’s because, for many years after, the city’s white majority didn’t talk about it—content, it seemed, to be done with that chapter of Hillsboro’s history.

It has now been 66 years since the mothers and their children started marching. Only in recent years, as the Highland County Historical Society began to emphasize Lincoln School’s history, have the marchers received any recognition for their efforts. In 2017, the mothers and their children were inducted in the Ohio Civil Rights Hall of Fame.

Among its genealogical offerings, Hillsboro’s library keeps a typed biography of Imogene Curtis in a thin white binder. It includes an interview with James Hapner, who said that he always had faith that the school board would keep its word and integrate once building renovations were done. Still, he said in retrospect, the board was at fault for formalizing segregation at Lincoln in the first place. Hapner was glad when the fight with the mothers ended. “We knew she wouldn’t give up,” he said of Imogene specifically. “I understood why she did it.”

Imogene’s years could be measured in letters to the editor, calls on behalf of neighbors in need, and attendance at important events. When Martin Luther King Jr. gave his “I Have a Dream” speech on the National Mall, Imogene was there. In 1984, she was asked to teach at Webster Elementary. A year later, on a visit to the offices of the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission, where she was helping a woman fight housing discrimination, Imogene fell in an elevator and broke her femur. She died a few weeks later from a blood clot.

Constance Baker Motley, the mothers’ attorney at the NAACP, went on to successfully argue nine cases before the U.S. Supreme Court and lead litigation to integrate southern universities. She became the first Black woman elected to the New York State Senate and the country’s first Black female federal judge. Reflecting on her fight against segregation, she once wrote that “becoming a part of history is a special experience, reserved for only a few. It’s like earning a law degree or a Ph.D.; nobody can take it away from you. You may be forgotten, but it’s like immortality: You will always be there.”

Motley passed away in 2005. Most every adult who played a part in the story of Hillsboro’s march is dead: Hapner and Upp, Druffel and Partridge. Zella Cumberland died this spring, becoming the latest of the mothers to pass away. The only one still alive is Elsie Steward. She turns 104 on June 30, the day of this story’s publication.

When I interviewed her, Elsie couldn’t always answer pointed questions—rather, she plucked memories as they surfaced. Still, her grasp of the details of her life exceeded that of someone a third her age. Her catalog of time was more sizable than most people could ever hope to have. She wasn’t sure why I wanted to talk about the march. It was so long ago. It was just something she did every day for a couple of years. She’d had so many years.

The surviving daughters, and a few sons, are the ones who carry on the legacy of the march, who tell the story. In the spot where Lincoln once stood, there is a food pantry and a brown State of Ohio historical marker that describes the marchers’ integration fight. Washington School has been replaced with a fire station. A couple of years ago, Webster, long abandoned, was set to be demolished. Virginia, Carolyn, Joyce, Teresa, and Eleanor, Imogene’s daughter, went to see it one last time. Hopping caution tape and stepping over broken glass and smashed concrete, they took a last walk up to the front door together and posed for photos. A wrecking ball hung nearby, the future looming over their past. The demolition crew didn’t understand what these retirees were doing on the worksite.

Elsie wasn’t sure why I wanted to talk about the march. It was so long ago. It was just something she did every day for a couple of years. She’d had so many years.

The women stepped away from the building and watched as it fell. They’d fought so hard to enter Webster. Some of them had sent their own children there. Now they’d outlasted it. All that was left was wreckage and dust. The daughters of the march got in their cars and headed home.

Joyce Clemons, whose married name is Kittrell, is a retired Head Start teacher and factory worker who also happens to have a black belt in karate. Her mother’s spirit manifested in Joyce’s habit of encouraging her children, and later her grandchildren, to play with kids of all backgrounds. “The most important thing, as y’all are growing up, is to learn to play together,” she would tell them. “Don’t look at each other’s color. Just get along together.” More recently, when we talked about the uprisings in dozens of U.S. cities—sustained demonstrations against police brutality and racial inequality—Joyce mirrored her mother’s capacity to speak truth and ground it in faith. Like someone who’d been raised to wear her best dresses when protesting injustice, Joyce was dismayed by demonstrators tearing up property. “Hatred don’t get you nowhere,” she said. Neither, however, did it exempt anyone from her goodwill: Though Donald Trump “caused a lot of this because of his prejudice,” Joyce told me, she still prayed for him and his family.

In early June, Hillsboro saw its own Black Lives Matter demonstration. On Facebook, people who opposed the rally threatened to show up with AK-47’s. “LOCK AND LOAD, HILLSBORO,” one post read. (It has since been deleted.) Despite a few people openly carrying firearms outside the veterans’ memorial, hundreds of Black and white residents marched peacefully through the city’s streets to the Highland County Courthouse, where Eleanor, carrying her mother’s torch, was among the featured speakers.

Joyce thinks the story of the marching mothers and the case that bears her name should be taught in schools, reminding young people that “we could be in even worse shape than we are now if it hadn’t been for someone stepping up and standing for us.” Joyce and I talked about history and heroes, how bravery doesn’t have to be grand or famous to matter. “I feel like I accomplished life because of what happened,” she told me of the walk she took from 1954 to 1956.

The marching mothers of Hillsboro hinged extraordinary change on life’s most mundane details: Getting ready for school. Lessons, worksheets, homework. Showing up no matter what. Taking disappointment in stride. For nearly two years, they set out on a daily journey that required gumption and resilience. They taught their children to keep going. They taught them to know when the walk is not yet done.

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